ZHitomirshchina – monuments «balzakovskogo age»
GladiolusApril, 2007
The one who searches for millions, rather seldom them finds,
But the one who does not search for them, – does not find never!
O.Balzac
The world day of protection of monuments and historical places on April, 18th we have met in a way. And, have learnt about it by radio already directly in road, having decided to get out for one day from Kiev – on the occasion of good weather and absence of urgent affairs. In respect of our trip nearby monuments and historical places of Zhitomir area – here appeared just some and an occasion to check up reliability of their protection. The route developed uneasy. The state register has given out the impressive list of the palaces scattered on area, manors and churches. The additional information to reflexion was given by profile sites of enthusiasts. This time we have decided to localise searches to the northeast from Berdichev where the greatest congestion of the most tempting was observed and is better the saved objects. The former possession of multimillionaires Tereshchenko, very not indifferent to art. The places inspiring in the last years of life unlucky businessman Onore de of Balzac, "beating off" debts literatorstvom and compelled to search for rich sponsors. The total route has pulled on 500 km: Kiev – Korostyshev – Hodorkov – JAropovichi – Verhivnja – CHervone – Andrushevka – It is old Kotelnja – Zhitomir – Kiev.
The Universe is a variety in unity.
O.Balzac
The atlas of motorways is attentively studied behind a coffee cup in korostyshevskom restaurant "Granite" which towers at road on picturesque rock over the Black grouse. Ancient Korostyshev it is known as the centre of extraction of a decorative stone (Lenin's mausoleum in Moscow is constructed of a local material) of what remind numerous advertising indexes of firms on manufacturing of monuments and gravestones. But, at desire, it is possible to walk on park, to admire thresholds on small river, to look at an ancient church of XVIII century, to look for manor of leader Gustav Olizara of noble family. To us here earlier and in a head did not come to make here a stop. Over deserted road the proud hawk is majestic soars, looking out in the field of sleepy mice. To birdies here expanse – on minor rural lines transport during this time meets seldom. Quality of a covering basically the satisfactory: the asphalted roads almost all are already patched, meeting sometimes gravijnye graders equal enough, the most unpleasant prosyolki, paved by a large cobble-stone, it is possible to go round on soil roadsides.
Turn to the right at church in village Hodorkov. The monument to Ivan Samojlovichu prompts, what exactly here in the beginning of 1630th years the future hetman of Ukraine was born. Other occasions to stop is not present. On a bumpy stone blocks it is crawled to JAropovichej. It is the first present annalistic hailstones at us on a route. In its XIII century named JAropolchem – by name the Old Russian founder, probably. In the centre where the main road leaves more to the left, we go down between ponds downwards. A beautiful place – others for settlements did not choose in those days. On a hillock – wooden manor with carved krylechkom. Who in a tower lives? High school. Not the worst destiny for the former manor of the landowner unknown to us. But and the round table with a white cloth, a big-bellied samovar, sweet kalatches and fragrant jam asks on a verandah.
We taxi on main line Р-34, in popilne it is turned off on Ruzhin. Hardly aside remains Pavoloch, noted on a tourist map a tempting badge "Lock". Anything especial – shaft of a Cossack fortress of times of Emancipating war.
All comes in due time for those who is able to wait.
O.Balzac
Lifting dust clubs, we fly on a smooth grader in Verhovnju. In 1847 on this road it is direct from Paris Balzac on a long-awaited meeting with desired "foreigner" has come tearing along here on post crew 48-year-old Onore de. Its correspondence with verhovnjanskoj countess Evelinoj Gansky is published in two thick volumes – 15 years they communicated «on soap»! The first meeting has taken place shortly before it in Switzerland, but to arrive on a visit to the Ukrainian girlfriend the popular novelist has dared only after death of her husband. In its intimate society it has continued the titanic work over well-known for "the Human comedy» – this multivolume cycle has united the majority of its most well-known products, switching on so the novel which has amazed Eve «Woman of thirty years», the concept «balzakovsky age» whence has gone.
Here and a modest palace Gansky (1800). To «small Versailles» as has bent got tired with road tolstjachok Onore, the two-storeyed private residence in any way does not pull. But the eminent lodger of progressive sights has provided to manor safety during the Soviet epoch – on a precept of last owner from a sort Rzhevussky in a building have arranged school (more precisely, selhoztehnikum). Now students are superseded gradually by Balzac's literary museum – it is already possible to visit its reception, a study and a bedroom. Restoration jobs have quickened in a current of last two years. For a streamlet of budgetary financing hopes enamoured in the job smotritelnitsa «balzakovskogo age», devoted to a museum more than 30 years of a life. Necessarily take excursion and do not stint a charitable payment in special "coin box"!
The shady park pacifies under the keen story ekskursovodshi about a family tomb Gansky, the ravine dug out manually, a mysterious underground course which under all constructions conducts from the house to river coast …
It is time to move further. Through village with ridiculous name Vchorajshe we choose a direction to Berdichev. Who did not happen, I recommend to call in necessarily in this ancient Jewish small town with the majestic defensive monastery, several synagogues and picturesque building of the historical centre. «In a theme» there will be a visiting of a church Sacred Barbarians (1759-81) in which Onore has got married to Eve in 1850. The family happiness proceeded not for long. Balzac has died the same year in Paris where has moved with the spouse right after weddings.
As practical deviation I offer travellers in Berdichev and to have dinner, as in remote places with this business there can be problems. Local recommend cosy cafe "Казка" (street K.Libknehta, 35) near to a church, and also solid restoratsiju «Stare місто» (street Nizgiretsky, 157) hardly aside.
Architecture – vyrazitelnitsa customs.
O.Balzac
We turn off on CHervone. Being guided by pipes of sugar factory it is taxied up to its front entrance. Factory and the in itself historical. As well as the ten others across Ukraine, has redeemed it in the end of XIX century representatives of well-known sort Tereshchenko at local noblemen Groholsky, not managed to keep up with new trends in economy – all as in «the Cherry garden». Whether genes in a sort were special, whether good education was easily converted in those days in bank notes, but all descendants gluhovskogo businessman Artemija Tereshchenko have appeared extremely clever, talented and enterprising. For example, its grandson Feodor it is possible to name safely one of fathers of the Ukrainian aircraft. In a workshop on chervonenskom factory the young businessman designed planes! Even carried out military orders during the First the world.
Now it is necessary to estimate only scales of grandiose palace Tereshchenko, that opposite. The monumental grey building in style of a neogothic style calls at once associations with some similar constructions of the beginning of the XX-th century in Kiev. Gorodetsky's style! If not the architect its pupils have precisely taken a hand. Furnish from fashionable then and concrete liked by Gorodetsky indirectly confirms this thought. The severity and "purposefulness" of forms of architecture of the late Middle Ages obviously imposed first Ukrainian "oligarchs". Recently the building has strongly decayed, but there is a hope what to save it it will be possible efforts of sisters of the monastery which has lodged here of Christmas Christ's.
The next deviation. If have not called in for a dinner to Berdichev, to have a bite or simply to be bought by provisions it is possible in the village centre. Just at turn to factory and a palace the clean little shop with small cafe is allocated on the general grey background. Similar, sugar business prospers here and now.
Secret of the large conditions, arisen it is not known as,
It is hidden in a crime, but it is forgotten, because is purely made.
O.Balzac
About a sugar direction of the industry next Andrushevki, as well as in CHervonom, notifies characteristic "aroma" of hydrogen sulphide. How here people live? Saharozavodchiki, however, did not shun to erect the dwellings in immediate proximity from the enterprises. Here the spacious palace costs in the middle of park in a little remote environment of industrial buildings and necessary in manufacture of a sweet product of reservoirs. Judging by time of construction of a palace (second half XIX century) Andrushevka it has appeared among Nikolay Artemicha's first acquisitions – the most known among brothers Tereshchenko. It has most become famous for generous patronage of arts, its collection of works of art makes a basis of expositions of the largest capital museums, his name grateful contemporaries have named street in the centre of Kiev. The origin of its fabulous capital (15 million gold roubles, under magazine "Форбс" version) remains a riddle. Spoke, simply the treasure has found. On the other hand, has long stayed in Gluhov's measures – to see, with advantage for itself. And then as has gone to buy up estates of the ruined noblemen … From the Soviet power descendants of magnates have hidden on Azure coast, now sometimes navedyvajutsja home to bow to the earth of ancestors and to promote perpetuating of their nice names.
Last excursion stop it is done in Old Kotelne. It not kochegarka, and one of the most ancient settlements of Ukraine – 1143! Shaft annalistic Kotelnicha can be surveyed on a hillock where there is bare church Antonija Paduansky (1786). There is one more beautiful place where on a surface of the earth as layers act granity more low. Certainly, a place very interesting, but the surrounding rural wretchedness makes such contrast with this beauty what to be late it would not be desirable.
Day of protection of monuments comes to an end. Our small travel has shown what to protect on ZHitomirshchine is that. Recent political changes in the country somewhat have gone it on advantage – on budgetary susekam naskrebajut now though any remains on maintenance. However, efforts of enthusiasts are brought at times much more by the big results, than a bureaucratic large object. As Balzac still poltorasta has precisely noticed years Onore de back: «the Bureaucracy is the huge mechanism operated pygmies».