Chernigov excursion

Knjazhy we visited Hailstones of Ukraine CHergigov with the excursion purpose some times. In all cases - it is rather successful and interesting! For those who is yet familiar with one of the most ancient Russian cities (yes patriots misters will excuse for such definition me – the Kiev Russia means), I can give some practical recommendations. Experience small, but exclusively tourist. So …

Than Chernigov for travellers-kievljan so it is affinity of an arrangement - 130 km is good. Hour-one and a half of a way is a maximum. Thus, with equal success it is possible to count on high-grade travel both on one, and for two days. For completeness of sensations I would recommend the second variant. The city is full of historical sights of the most ancient times – the quarter of all architectural monuments of Ukraine domongolskogo the period here is concentrated. There is also quite decent entertaining infrastructure, is where with comfort to spend the night. And, eventually, what rest without bokalchika beer! :)

I will especially not extend about road. Than that is easier – we leave Kiev on the Brovarsky line, we go round Brovary on district (it is possible and straight), and through an hour already on the well-known narrow bridge through Desna which deduces directly to historical city centre. Practically on all extent road chetyryohrjadnaja, settlements meet, but is not too plentiful. However in the mornings often there are ambushes, including the control 90 on sites provoking high-speed driving. Signs 110 there sometimes appear, but is more often they are not present, than and «sellers of striped sticks» use. I here each time come across … ;)

Now about hotels, after all to lodge with conveniences – the first business on a new place! :) A good few of hotels it was necessary prosherstit personally. In a city it is considered the best hotel "Gradetsky" (avenue of the World (byv. Lenin's street), 68; bodies: (04622) 45-025, 44-526), that in 2 km from the centre. The prices quite accessible: the standard double – 95 grn., lux – 180 grn. However service there rather sovok, and was most of all killed by periodically arising problem with hot water. Have checked up also located little bit further under the World prospectus budgetary hotel "Ear" (street Chervonogvardejsky, 17), but there to spend the night I did not advise even to those who very much wishes to save – conditions simply terrifying. And here complex successfully located almost in the centre "Slavic" (byv. Hotel "Ukraine", avenue of the World, 33; bodies: (04622) 74-604) has pleased most of all. Decent conditions in rooms, a parking in a court yard, are even a sauna with pool. Warmly and cosy. Almost same reasonable prices: Double – 119 grn., lux – from 219 to 269 grn. There is still most tsentrovaja hotel "Desna" (street Magistratsky, 1; bodies: (04622) 7-70-00, 7-24-19) in an ancient building almost on the Most red area, but at our visiting it did not work – joint-stock company "Черниговспиртгорилка" office there has settled down. Whether will work - it is not known. Little bit further from the centre, above across Desna, there is hotel "Pridesnjansky" (street Shevchenko, 99а; bodies: (04622) 95-49-05). It is located on the coast of the river, in a cosy corner in the middle of park. Speak, in him VIP-visitors of a city stop, and it was under construction during Soviet times on spetszakazu a party management. Double junior suites on 176 grn., lux – 220 grn. But cosy hotel it is impossible to name in any way. There can be presidential numbers and are quite good, but all the rest... The Scoop is ineradicable! So I advise to choose "Slavic".

The car, naturally, it is better to leave at once on a parking in hotel, and further to move on foot or by a taxi, the blessing there are they here copecks. I to begin with parked in the centre, near any little shop on the main city area, like as on Moscow manners called Red (actually the Chernigov Red area is much more senior Moscow), there, where usually there are taxi drivers. By the way, it is necessary to consider, that the central part after 18:00 is closed for motor transport journey (on it inform signs). It is necessary to go round on lateral small streets. Those who risks to break an interdiction, traditionally waits post DAI on the Red area. Excuses, type «we not local», not kanajut... :)

The Red area is enough skuchnovata. Though also very big, but an eye practically no trouble to be hooked. Unique noteworthy sight – not bleshchushchy luxury Is musical-drama theatre of Shevchenko. And here it is direct behind it, in a shady public garden, there is an interesting monument of architecture the Pjatnitsky church XII-XIII of century of century-restored after war Interestingly, that anybody precisely did not know, how it looked actually, but its reconstruction has served as the sample for revival of the Old Russian style combining traditional slavic architecture with a gothic style. Unfortunately, in a public garden opposite you any more will not see the well-known fountain "ZHabki" – cult vacation spot of townspeople. Recently it have taken down, what even became the reason of the big scandal widely shined in a press. It is a pity, fontanchik was very picturesque …

Near to Pjatnitsky church there is monument Bogdanu Khmelnitskiy, but to you to the right, on modest and very "Soviet" on architecture foot street Seryozhnikova which will deduce you directly to Detintsu. It also is the heart of a city – a historical complex "Chernigov ancient" which main sights are the most ancient Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy cathedral of XI century (one of the most ancient temples of the Kiev Russia, constructed by prince Mstislavom Brave where Igor Svjatoslavovich is buried, the hero "Words about shelf Igorevom"), the Borisoglebsky cathedral (nowadays an architecture museum, it it is possible to reserve inexpensive excursion), constructed in XII century on the base of more ancient stone construction of XI century, more later a building Chernigov kollegiuma and more some constructions. On this hill ancient Chernigov also settled down. By the way, an origin of the name of a city attribute to the leader-founder by name of CHerniga. But local will necessarily tell to you and beautiful, though also a little banal legend about the prince Black and its beauty-daughter, who was threw out from a window of a princely tower not to become the wife Hazaria kagana which has besieged a city. In Ditintse all is impregnated by spirit of history. We have received huge pleasure simply walking on park, examining an ancient laying and imagining as one thousand years ago here there lived Russian princes …

From East side Detinets leaves to Desna, this place is called the Shaft, the perfect kind on the river and port from here opens. Along the Shaft stand 12 ancient guns delivered for the Chernigov fortress in XVII-XVIII centuries. They so never also did not shoot, but now create unique Chernigov colour. And the city card is nearby, hardly below, the Katerininsky church has begun ХVIII centuries with bronze domes. In park Detintsa, the front entrance, has unique found us in a city a stall trading in souvenirs. The choice is limited enough, but, at least, it is possible to buy booklets with historical inquiries and photos.

But it is enough while history, time to have a good time! In Chernigov there are places where it is possible to spend with the great pleasure evening. A cult place it is possible to name club-cafe "Этуаль" (street Pjatnitsky, 50; bodies: (0462) 185-730, 185-739) on crossing of streets Kiev and Pjatnitsky. If the local make to your an an appointment «at 13th gun» - to you here :)! Here, on "shaft", it also costs. Near to a breadboard model of Tour d'Eiffel which is invocatory shone in night. Here there are entertainments for all tastes: a bar-restaurant with decent inexpensive kitchen (15-20 grn. For the basic dish), a disco "Spirit", billiards and, the main thing, bowling-club "Traffic light"! The prices begin from 36 grn. The most expensive time - Friday and Saturday in the evening (nearby 100 grn/ch). Prepare to that on target and holidays flow of the people of the senior school and younger student's age happens considerable enough.

That who plans to have supper in quieter conditions, it is possible to recommend nearby, in the main city parkway, cosy small restaurant "Mamma Mia!" (Avenue of the World, 47). Involves capital visitors with a stylish interior and good kitchen, and local frightens off the Kiev prices - 30-40 grn. For the basic dish. On the contrary, if to pass through parkway, the related institution "Lemonade" (avenue of the World, 32) has settled down. Here too it is possible to have a bite and drink, but the basic specialisation - dansinng. Music rattles all around till late night. There are also cheaper, but pleasant enough places. It is possible to spend time perfectly in "Kolybe" (street of Soldiers-internationalists), that on the bank of the river at the Red bridge in the summer. Here there is classical Huzul round zalchik with a brazier, a banquet hall, summer small houses and terraces, a beach and children's playgrounds. The prices humane - 15 grn. For an average dish. It is possible to note at once two points on the Victory prospectus, near to hotel "Slavic": popular cafe "Preglory" (avenue of the Victory, 93) and a quite good pub "Bruxelles" opposite "MakDonaldsa". Except an ubiquitous American fast food, there are also other network small restaurants of fast service: "Kartopljana a hut" (avenue of the Victory, 91) or "CHelentano" (avenue of the World, 21).

Since morning with new forces behind new impressions! Hardly away from the centre if to move along the street Tolstoy, you will get to a complex «Chernigov architecturally-historical reserve». As a reference point the visible memorial of the Great Patriotic War on a high hill serves. At the left round it there is a narrow road which by private houses will deduce you directly to ancient Antonievym to caves in the extent of 315 m where there is the biggest in Ukraine an underground temple, and also picturesque Ilinsky church. On a legend, once there was an underground course in length of one and a half hundred kilometres, the uniter these caves with the Kiev. The detailed historical inquiry I will not result – all questions to guide-archeologist Igor who manages talently to combine scientific job with the first class service of tourists. He to you will tell and about the monastery founder sacred Antonie Pechersky, and about ancient ceremonies of check on sanctity of hallows, and about the well-known ghost … it seems to Much in the end of the tunnel … ;) As required – greetings to Igor, and do not forget to buy a "nominal" icon or souvenir modelku church at local national umeltsa, that trades on an input …

Hardly above, on on terraces of mountains Boldinyh, there is a Troitsk monastery (Tolstoy's street, 92) where known Ukrainian poet-fabulist Leonid Glebs is buried. There it is better to pass on foot, Igor will show road. There it is possible to glance in the Troitsk cathedral (1679), and also to rise on a 58-metre belltower (1775) is the highest point of Chernigov – and to survey vicinities from height of the bird's flight. At easy overcast of a photo turn out remarkable.

Just in the middle, between mountains Boldinymi and Ditintsem, constructions of the Yelets Uspensky monastery (street Proletarian, 1) are well visible. To park most conveniently it is direct at an input. The monastery has been based in XI century by prince Svjatoslavom Jaroslavichem, caves of the Old Russian period were saved. Later the Uspensky cathedral (XII century), church Lizoguba, a belltower and other constructions has been constructed. On the contrary, through road, attention "the Black tomb" (X century) involves low to a barrow. On a legend, the founder of a city the prince Black here has been buried. Now it simply hillock with a memorable sign in small square. Well and if to pass from this place on street Thieves', it is possible to get to M.Kotsjubinskogo's memorial estate (street Kotsjubinsky, 3) where the monument to the writer is established.

These are the basic sights of a city. It is possible to come back home safely. We, the truth, on road have still dropped in in ancient Baturin. In XVII-XVIII centuries this city was residence of hetmen and capital of hetman Ukraine. In particular, here there was Mazepa's headquarters, but after in Moscow have learnt about Mazepa's contract with Swedes, the lock together with all constructions and mostly cities have made even to the earth, and all inhabitants were cut out by valorous fighters of a zonder-command of prince Menshikov (fortress ruins were still saved).

And in 50 years here has decided to erect the palace of columns Cyril Razumovsky, last hetman of Ukraine, having invited for this purpose from Italy architect Rinaldi. Its well-known Charles Kameron completed. It is interesting, that for half-centuries up to the end the palace so never and has not been completed, and after Razumovsky's death in him nobody lived. Throughout 19th century it gradually collapsed, the left and right wing in general have disassembled on bricks. Then it tried to restore, any time it was in conducting military men. Now absolutely thrown, ragged and dilapidated inside, nearby on waste ground cows are grazed. But all the same architecture perfect, and kinds from mountain on the river and vicinities simply magnificent!

To find a palace very easily. On entrance to Baturin, near a sign "Agricultural machinery", it is necessary to curtail into a narrow small street to the right which will deduce directly to a building. Hardly further on the main street it is possible to drive to old park where there is Kochubey's known for all across Pushkin "Poltava" House. There the museum of local lore is placed. By car it is possible to call in directly on park territory. The exposition is mostly devoted well-known local beekeeper-pioneer Peter prokopovichu, but old women-smotritelnitsy will in detail tell and about Razumovskys. In Baturin's centre there is a Voskresensky church – Razumovsky's constructed in 1803 the tomb.

The place interesting, but specially there to go I do not recommend – visiting and a palace, and a museum will occupy hour 1,5-2 from force, and more there there is nothing. But in transit to drop in costs, if it is possible to pass by.

Under Baturin we were witnesses to how flares a dark blue three-metre flame ancient domestic "Zaporozhets". A show frightening, I will tell to you … Well though all five to passengers managed to jump out in time of this can, only one has got off a small burn … But it absolutely other history which has no relation to our fascinating travel.

That and to you I wish! :)