The ancient cities of Chernigovshchiny

Whether lepo ny bjashet, bratie, nachjati old slovesy difficult povesty … Though, why "old"? And why "difficult"? Anything difficult on a trip on the nearest to Kiev ancient siverskim to settlements of east Polesye is not present. Kozelets, Ostyor, Ljubech, Sednev. In due time these names were known widely outside of Russia, now it is the hammered remote places with all traditional sores – awful roads and full absence of a tourist infrastructure. However, all interesting places from the excursion point of view are located near to a line Kiev-Chernigov, along Desna. Places very beautiful - slightly hilly relief, files smeshennyh woods, slightly boggy valley of the river. With high kruch magnificent kinds on a vicinity open. Here there were cities annalistic, affairs epic … here were created

In Kozelets we have driven in the cloudy autumn morning, being guided on a belltower of a cathedral of Christmas of the Virgin seen in a fog (1752-1763). Speak, from above it is possible to see simultaneously Kiev and Chernigov, but clear weather is for this purpose necessary. The cathedral for such small provincial small town seems too smart. So the gratitude to the God of the nice inhabitant of these places of Natalia Razumihi – mother Alexey and Cyril Razumovskih – for happy destiny of her sons was great. The main riches inside – the huge wooden iconostasis executed under the project of Rastrelli. In park behind a cathedral there is a small building of city council. And on east suburb of a city (the street of the Family of Razumovskys, 41) is located manor Daragan (XVIII century) With the park, also connected with K.Razumovsky's name. Now it is medical technical school – to glance it is necessary by the way. For example, on road to an operating Georgievsky monastery which is hardly further, in the country. And Razumovsky's present ancestral lands is has sat down Lemeshi, that in 7 km on a line towards Chernigov. Here there is a Tryohsvjatitelsky church (1755), erected to A.Razumovsky's means over a tomb of father Grigory Rozuma. It it is well visible from a line. Nearby to church the building zemskoj schools is located. It have constructed in 1909-10 in honour of glorified Rozumihi.

Further we go in Ostyor. The ancient city on Desna is known since 1098 as a fortress "Gorodets on Vostre" the Rejaslavsky princedom, created by the grand duke the Kiev Vladimir Monomahom for protection of the Kiev Russia from polovtsev. Not reaching to the centre, it is necessary to turn on the left, under the index on Krehaev. The small street will result in an ancient small hill on which stood annalistic Gorodets. Except earthen shaft, it was saved JUreva bozhnitsa. It only a fragment of east part of the Mihajlovsky church constructed in ХII a century on command of Jury Dolgorukogo. Having glanced in windows, it is possible to make out ancient frescos on walls.

Having returned on a line, it is possible to move further. But it is better to stop off here for a dinner – further with decent institutions will be big naprjazhyonka. At road near this outcome has settled down next small restaurant "Мисливець" (the Chernigov line, 79th km) networks «Trump map». As well as all the others, this "auto-grill" is sustained in the hunting style with ethnic motives and offers classical dishes of an Ukrainian cuisine (the average price of the basic dish – 20 grn.), and also an every possible grill.

Ahead – the most difficult site of a route. We go on Ljubech. At the very end of the Chernigov district turn on the left. The first kilometres of quiet driving on normal rural road, but then … In the next village asphalt vanishes and the stone blocks begins zhutchajshaja. Speed falls to 20-30 km/h – the machine it is a pity. The asphalted site to following village of special simplification does not bring – a line did not repair, probably, since times of prince Vladimir. In such mode it is necessary to move almost all of 35 km. To an Old Russian city on Old Russian road.

Small town – backwoods rare, almost relic. And in due time was one of the centres of a political life and even received the first summit of Russian princes of 1097 Then governors of the slavic people have decided to live amicably. To be on friendly terms steels against polovtsev, having hammered together for this purpose a coalition. However coalition armies could not stand under the impact of insurgents of field commander Batyja and the city has fallen into decay. From the lock of the Chernigov prince there were only earthen shaft on a grief Zamkovoj. Of those times reminds a granite sign in honour of the 1100 anniversary of a city and a monument on the occasion of the 900 anniversary of congress of princes. To reach them, having driven in a city, it is necessary to move on the main road to a crossroads with the tank on a pedestal. Here to the right on street Soviet and it is direct, by Preobrazhenskiy church until the small street will not start to leave, winding, downwards. And to us more to the left, on the narrow asphalted path on a hill is and there is a mountain Zamkovaja. Kinds therefrom the remarkable!

But it not unique sight. Here after all was born St. Antony Pechersky which in XI century has based the first Antonievsky monastery in a city. And has then gone to wander across Russia, basing everywhere Pechersky laurels. From a monastery there was Antonieva a cave. It in other part of small town. It is necessary to reach to the opposite end of street Soviet and to turn there to the right. It is better to ask Further. Downwards to a cave on original gorge with abrupt slopes, porosshimi trees, the soil road conducts. Then wooden steps and a narrow footpath with a handrail. A place for monastery Antony has chosen very gloomy and mysterious. The input is laid out by a brick, and right at the end – a earthen cave. Now sometimes here there pass church services. Besides, under legends, athlete Dobrynja Nikitich and mother of Kiev prince Vladimir Malusha came Ljubecha, but traces of their stay does not remain. It is necessary to look only on kamenitsu polubotka (XVII century) On the area in which the culture House is now located, and it is possible to come back.

Last point at us was Sednev, that from an opposite side from Chernigov. Very picturesque small town which has been not started, but storing characteristic spirit of provinciality. For the first time it is mentioned in 1068, as fortified city Snovsk. But it is more known as possession of Cossack foremen Lizogubov. It is a pleasure to go there. Distance small, road simply excellent. In the centre, at a monument, it is necessary to curtail into an imperceptible small street between the green house and shop. It will deduce to Voskresensky church (1690), constructed as tomb Lizogubov. Behind it, on the brink of high kruchi, costs small kamenitsa Lizogubov (XVII century) In zamkovom style. Through ancient park, by a thousand-year oak, it is possible to leave to new lizogubovskoj to manor which have constructed in XIX century Now there high school, pupils at work lessons diligently improve territory. It is possible to look at a 600-year-old linden under which had a rest visiting these places of Shevchenko. And it is direct behind a building, on a slope, there is the classical arbour carrying a name of fabulist Glebov. A kind from it, I think, can inspire not only on fables.

Such here there was a short-term trip. If to leave before, it is quite possible to be in time all for one day. Only it is a pity, that Old Russian architects as the basic building material used a tree. Now, basically, it is necessary to estimate only beauty of those places which selected ancient for the settlements.