Svjatogorsk-Donetsk-BerdjanskGladiolus August, 2003 Friends Donetsk, roofing felts for fun, roofing felts seriously have invited us, to visit their nice native land, and for one and birthday of one of them to note. And at all did not assume, that we will agree. :) Week of time in a stock was available, and, having understood with line affairs, have Tuesday afternoon left towards Kharkov. The matter is that have agreed to meet in Slavjanogorske, that on border of Donetsk and Kharkov areas, and in Kharkov it was not possible to happen yet.
The full tank decent 98th on the multinational corporation, that on an entrance to Borispol is filled in. By the way, borispolskaja a line now on repair, movement on one strip with restriction 50, and somewhere in the middle costs a post with a radar. You will not be dispersed … Through Poltava road perfect, not too loaded. The main thing – to bypass Lubny on the roundabout. Easily I am insolent 140-160 on good sites. Average – 100. And militias was not much – slept off after Independence Day. :) In Kharkov it decided to make the big stop. Have a little bit wound on the centre in search of a haven. From tsentrovyh hotels on the Internet as variants in advance has selected about equivalent "Natsional" and "World", both on Lenin's avenue. There was still the heaped up "Kharkov" in the centre, but there a double room from 400 grn., that for my purse inconveniently. "Natsional" though is more subcentral, has not liked at first sight – any ragged, rather dirty. Well it in any way does not pull on the declared 3 stars. "World" has had more to liking. Standard number – 118 grn. With a bathroom, the TV and a refrigerator. The breakfast enters into cost. For 200 it is possible to take improved number – with fresh repair and new santehnikoj. The Supervised parking 10 grn. Had supper in the centre at excellent restaurant "Метрополь", that on street Sumy near the area. A summer platform there remarkable, despite not so summer evening cool. Since morning, having walked on the centre with a short sightseeing tour and in search of a gift for the friend, we go through Raisin on Slavjanogorsk. Road satisfactory, only here turn nearly have not passed – on the index it is written "Svjatogorsk". There in general with these Svjatogorskami/Slavjanogorskami mess any, and has not understood, how this place actually is called. Near the bridge through Siversky Donets we are met by friends.
In general Slavjanogorsk – the basic kurortno-country centre of Donetsk area. Here it is full of camp sites and rest houses, and recently in the most picturesque places there are very rather strong country houses. The main sight of these places the Svjatogorsko-Uspensky monastery with caves in a cretaceous rock and Nikolsky church at the top of mountain. In the neighbourhood with a monument to buddy Stalin to the hero of Donbass to Artem. :) The part of buildings of a monastery is taken away under sanatorium which was popular in a century before last, and now in desolation. Priests on the sly win to themselves territory, directing the usages. Such impression, that tourists call them irritation, preference give to pilgrims (just there was an eve of any church holiday). Now reconstruct cave church Antonija and Feodosiya, having closed for visiting. An input on territory of a monastery for women only in skirts and with the covered head what Cossacks on an input watch. On a viewing platform of the Nikolsky church constructed on highest cretaceous more abruptly, it is possible to rise several ways, but the tunnel in a grief has appeared is closed, and through a monastery priests have not started up, so it was necessary to make a detour, round sanatorium. Having decided to walk, the car have left below about what during an ascension and descent on a streamer time and again have regretted. On road have found under construction wooden monastery. Nevertheless costs popotet to inspect a vicinity from height of the bird's flight.
Vodka and rest have reached Donetsk by the evening where on a hospitable summer residence we were waited by shish kebabs. Birthday have noted under the full program. :) The next day has been devoted walk across Donetsk. There I already few times happened, but that on job. This time huge mrachnovatyj the city with waste heaps became an excursion subject. To look, in general, there is nothing – wide prospectuses, houses in Stalin style, a monument to Lenin on the area. All ordinary-looking enough, short of some modern architectural "masterpieces", small restaurant-pyramid type in Pushkin's parkway. But as the city changes in the evening when illumination of buildings joins, signboards and a neon of shops, taverns, hotels light up! The people weakened walk on the eve of Day of the Miner. Also is where to have a rest on taste – in a city of full "creative" institutions. With pleasure has found out in the street Artem a bar the "Mustang" similar on stylistics to Zaporozhye "Mustang". Interior theme – the American military aircraft of 40th years. Even model P-51 "Mustang", pride of the American military aircraft full-scale, somehow there have pushed and have suspended under a ceiling! :) And nearby, it is direct near club "Chicago", has settled down "Bajker's Club". Very cool institution! All is issued, naturally, in bajkerskom style (it is similar to Kiev "Garage", but is cooler). At an input – the policeman bronevichyok and old motorcycles, they and inside. Bar chairs in the form of motorcycle seats. Tables from metal bochek in which, instead of table-tops, working TVs are built in! There is a cinema hall and a shooting gallery in which, at hit in "apple", fascists shout and do indecent gestures. :) The basic drink, certainly, beer, but only "Sarmatian". :( All the same it is a pity, that I took the helm … For the morning we go on the sea. From Donetsk to Mariupol only 120 km, so donetchane (donchane as they of name) on target in those edges often get out. Friends advise Urzuf where they have usually a rest, but we insist on Berdyansk. There and then refuelling "UkrTatNafty" where I am filled in excellent benzinchikom, as well as on a return way. The city is filled by cops – just a national Donetsk holiday Day of the Miner. :) To Mariupol the line conducts perfect chetyryohrjadnaja, but we turn off kilometres for 30 to go round a city. The quite good minor road passes in line Е58, loading not big, on KP cops clean Russian, but also I have run into an ambush in village … On entrance to Berdyansk the big, beautiful car wash from cafe. I give of the car in charge washermen, we go to drink coffee and to enquire the mistress about hotels. It has all is seized. Me there and then put in the car and carry to show a cottage at the sea, named by 3-stars hotel. Actually – the usual private house a little bit converted and decorated "pontami" in the Yalta style. (Mediocre) owner has offered two-room number for 300 grn., but, having learnt, that for one night, has there and then refused («Erase here for you …»). It and to the best. Have gone on the Berdyansk plait where the basic resort infrastructure is located. Along coast continuous bases, sanatoria, rest houses and a never-ending beach. Have reached to the end, noticing decent places, were developed and have begun more subject survey. Variants without a bathroom or hot water it is not considered. Lux with decent repair in the killed sovok boarding houses offer for 250-300 grn. Already we estimate, can lodge four together in two-room number … the Ideal variant it appears in boarding house "Miner". Svezheotremontirovannyj the case with an exit to the sea, at him a bar with billiards, nearby the big, pure dining room and cafe. Two-room lux with a shower, the conditioner and new furniture – 150 grn., but it was just the first day (on August, 29th) when they have reduced the prices, and during a season (June-August) – 270. Easy we remove 2 numbers, and on a beach. Weather hot, the sea warm and rather pure. To the people it is not a lot of. In the neighbourhood, through 2 bases, there is a complex "Oreanda" – the most elite Berdyansk resort (300-400 grn. For a usual double room). And there – the remarkable fish tavern where we have a seat to have supper. In the neighbourhood there is a banquet, the local friends («the friend to the second owner» as the waitress has informed) walks. Waiters near their table stand a system on growth. Opera arias in live execution mixed up with "chanson". And grandiose fireworks in the end, not conceding, apparently, Kiev on Independence Day. Only the bill has a little upset – has not done without classical resort divorces of type of vegetable cutting for 25 grn., when usual salads stand a maximum 5. Well and preference till the morning … Half of next day it is with great dispatch absorbed solar beams and it is taken the last this year sea baths. For a dinner we go to the centre of Berdyansk, on the Seaside area. Rather remarkable place to revive a city has begun from here, speak, thanks to the new city authorities. Kafeshek and small restaurants the sea, is even branches "Челентано" and «Kartopljanoj huts». We choose something cool, semibasement … By the evening we come back to Donetsk, and for the morning it is started to Kiev. This time through Pavlograd, Novomoskovsk, Krasnograd, Karlovku and Poltava – the shortest road and rather qualitative. Somewhere near Poltava, already on dark, went kilometres 120 at an o'clock when has seen in the distance someone's dimensions. While braked and estimated, as it easy to bypass, it suddenly has in a flash appeared directly before me. ABS - a great thing! Has stopped literally in semimeter... Gryobanyj the collective farmer on "Muscovite" has decided to turn on the left, thus stops did not work for it, and povorotnik it has not switched on! It was last adventure of our 5-day round. Kiev has met a downpour – there has come autumn …
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