Across the Eastern Europe for 20 days

The idea of a trip across the Eastern Europe on the avto ripened for a long time, but the decision was accepted suddenly. The initial plan assumed the following route: Krakow, Prague, Bratislava, Budapest, Transylvania, and then any of the Black Sea or Adriatic resorts. But time (is more exact, its rigid limit) has introduced the corrective amendments. There was, that a reception of the Czech visa, and after it and Slovak, despite communications in embassy of Czechia, can be tightened a little so Czechia and Slovakia from plans dropped out this time. Besides, it would be desirable to go to Croatia not so, and for visiting of Montenegro it was necessary to cross also Yugoslavia for what visa support also was required. As a result it has been decided to be limited only to the visa-free countries (Poland, Hungary, Romania) and any resort in a southern part of Bulgaria. Thus, for visiting of Krakow (very much it would be desirable to see this most beautiful city in a summer time) it was necessary to do a hook – after Poland again to return to Ukraine to reach the Hungarian border by Slovakia.

Have initially solved during travel whenever possible in what not to refuse, in reasonable limits, certainly. The blessing, means allowed. Except obligatory survey of the basic sights it would be desirable also pereprobyvat the most original dishes natsionalnyh kitchens in bright, picturesque institutions. To stop have solved only in good gostinnitsah level of 2-3 stars, the main requirement to which was presence in number of a bathroom with a shower. In advance on the Internet hotels did not look for, raschityvaja to orient on district there where did not know konkretynh places. And it was difficult to reserve something, after all the accurate plan-schedule of movings did not make, that there was a field for maneuvers and possibility to improvise.

It was the first trip abroad by the car so, of course, the day before was fidgety. Besides anybody from acquaintances could not share experience zagranputeshestvy on these countries. Day has stayed in the Internet, trying to discover reports on similar trips and features of the countries PDD which it was necessary to visit.

All formalities (the Bulgarian visa and the voucher, «a green map», medical insurances) have been settled literally for days-two thanks to quickness of agency "Sofia", that on street Mihajlovsky. One more day was occupied with preparation for road – purchase of necessary things, maps and atlases, car preparation (has the day before caught carnations - vulcanization was required). Serious checkup has decided not to spend, as mine Mitsubishi Carisma all year, she felt herself fine, and next THAT passed literally one month ago. Further there was an evening of gathering of luggage, chetyryohchasovoj a dream and in a way! I at the wheel, the wife with maps and atlases on a mate place. Were occasionally interchanged the position.

I will state further on days as almost each of them has been literally sated by impressions. The detailed magazine did not conduct, therefore some figures will be not absolutely exact, and many things I will restore on memory. In the report very many an actual material, descriptions of problems and tudnostej travel, and at the same time a little actually impressions of the seen. Therefore in advance I will make a reservation, actually, the general result of travel – full delight from all gone through, as one big adventure consisting of set of bright and remembered events.

11.07.2003, pt.

12:00 Lvov. Have got – have not used district, and popyorlis through a city. Have lost the way and, probably, the whole hour got out on freedom. The dinner in Lvov was initially planned, but is it would not be desirable yet, there was only a sharp desire faster to get out back on a line. On road – weight of refuellings, but 98th anywhere is not present. For some kilometres to border I fill in a full tank of 95th (decent), and at once behind it, certainly, some refuellings with 98th come across.

14:30 Border, transition SHegini. Huge turn legkovushek hour on 4, by the most modest estimations. Quite usual, according to pograntsy. In a turn head say, that have defended hours 8. I pay road gathering 15 grn. In a box near the first barrier also we go to have dinner in frontier small restaurant. Appetite is not present any. Before it a certain person suggests us to provide «a green corridor» for 150 grn., but to get to the first day on such money it would not be desirable (last time when passed transition to a taxi, the carrier has paid only 15 grn). Around full pavilonchikov brokers who, possibly, can solve a problem and for more modest compensation, but again I arm with impudence, unscrupulously I use office position in the mercenary purposes and I go directly to starshomu. That straight off understands, that from it it is required and instantly organises transition without examination by all turns directly before the Polish passport control. To look in the face remained in turns it is a shame.

All road to Krakow there was an adaptation to new style of driving. There was no desire to get acquainted with a local police, and furthermore with their prices so has decided ALL to OBSERVE! And to observe was that: 90-60-70-90-70-50-40 … Without interruption. Signs in large quantities, only have time to notice. Always it is visible, where the settlement begins (the point name on a green background corresponds our dark blue but if nearby there is a white sign with the image of a silhouette of a city, means on it all restrictions of a white background), but not always extend – where comes to an end. Poles behind courageously suffered our slow mover, but as soon as possible overtook. To concede overtaking, having moved down on the wide asphalted roadside – a good form rule. In the answer necessarily thank avarijkoj. Break there almost everything, but it is not strong. We fly almost only on jeeps and "Mercedeses". By the way, the big cars in Poland a rarity. Road excellent, but it is too much settlements, repair work more often comes across. Road awfully boring, monotonous, but demanding constant concentration. Police to Krakow and have not met.

17:00 Tarnov. The first stop in poljandii. Very picturesque small town. Had a drink coffee, have taken a walk a little, have bought a map … the Car all this time has staid on parking near a supermarket as and has not understood with their system of payment of a parking the centre (this problem will pursue us throughout all travel).

21:30 already any drivings have reached Krakow from monotony – at me eyes already started to stick together. Darkened, but it was possible to be guided still, and the map was available. At first wished to choose otelchik more cheaply on periphery, but forces on searches any more were not. Have decided to go at once in known on last visiting of a city "Krakovjak" on Army street Craiova 9 (tel. (+48 12) 637-95-85, 662-64-55), that in the next building with were "Kontinentalem", and now Novotel ubiquitous Accor Group. Modest university hotel for teachers, $35 for a double room with conveniences, a parking nearby separately for 20 zloties for a night ($1=3,58 zl). Were washed, have changed clothes, and in the centre by a taxi (15 zl). A supper at the Italian restaurant in the Main Market (ethnic cuisine we will try then), a spaghetti karbonara – rubbish. Similar, correctly them are able to prepare only in Italy. Still to beer steam, also are summed up first, really eventful day of travel.

12.07.2003, sb.

The first point – recommended by friends Tynets, it almost in city boundaries. Impression has not made – the usual lock with operating abbey. In a cathedral there was a service, the body sounded, and it was unique prijatym impression … Further a way laid on Peskovu the Rock. It was necessary to wind on mountain roads and when have decided that have lost the way, have stopped to have dinner in very nice tavern under a steep rock. The ethnic cuisine has appeared fresh, almost fast-fudovskoj, but on our question on road on Peskovu the waiter to general fun has specified the Rock in turn of road and has told: «Behind a corner». The lock on a sandstone rock near to «the Oat-flakes Mace» (such huge vertical stone) has appeared really very beautiful. It is possible to reach it as on steps, and the pedestrian track, risking to break downwards. It is a pity, but already there were 5 o'clock in the evening, and in a museum to get it was not possible, and there, speak, a part vavelskoj collections …

And in the neighbourhood there was not less remarkable place – settlement Ojkov (Ojcow - correctly to read OjTSov, but OjKov is more ridiculous). There too there is the small lock which has been partially cut down directly in a rock (it is natural, has been already closed). But the main thing – settlement. Here all reminded a western, though a small village really national, with protogenic architecture. On the main area – the big wooden building, in which as it is necessary in the Wild West, mail, a police station and bank. On the contrary – the same wooden small restaurant by the form very reminding a saloon. Nearby – hotel "Under Kazimirom" in a wooden building, to which already one and a half hundreds years. Wooden apartment houses of very original architecture. And in general it is the small improving resort specialising on the pedestrian and bicycle routes.

To Krakow have returned when already darkened. There was still a small adventure with supermarkets (it has appeared, that one of them – only for private businessmen) and a paid parking (and has not understood how to pay, and on departure there was an automatic camera, so I already for certain in their lists of malicious defaulters for a parking), and a supper at the Mexican small restaurant on Royal road (chilli konkarne – as fire!). The second Polish day has come to an end.

13.07.2003, vs.

Here border. Have passed quickly, minutes for 40. From them 15 at Poles and minutes 30 at ours. Having stamped passports as it has appeared, have forgotten to pass the customs control, but pogranets on departure us has learnt (there was a same change) and has passed. There and then, it is literally on entrance, also has refuelled 98th, very decent. I.e. one tank of 60 l. Has quite sufficed on all trip across Poland. politsaev have not met never, only pair of cars in road and a little «cardboard durilok». By the way, in Krakow for the first time has faced a problem the right additional section on traffic lights which behave at all as at us. If the basic – green, and additional does not burn or blinks, means to turn it is possible. Additional lights up, when the basic red – in this case can be turned to the right, having conceded to all at the left.

Already darkened, and further Lvov to fetch today obviously were not in time (I do not like night road, especially in Ukraine after Poland). And in a city in search of hotel to call in it would not be desirable (concrete co-ordinates was not) so have stopped in very good roadside motel "Софиевка" (with. Konopnitsa, street Gorodotsky, 7а; bodies: 69-87-84, 69-87-21) for 5 km. From Lvov. Chose so that looked decently and nearby there were expensive legkovushki, instead of waggons. Number with a bathroom was very decent (100 grn) though it was possible to take better for 150-200 with a soft corner and the other additional blessings of a civilisation, but the sense was not. For a supper – healthy Ukrainian food – selyodochka with an onion, kartoshechka with meat, well and gorilochka. "Getman" - super!

14.07.2003, pn.

In area Chopa has washed the car and has filled in a full tank extremely nasty with 98th, and then all road across Hungary suffered, while all not vykatal. The engine published unnatural uterine sounds and poorly pulled, it is good still the car is specially adapted for bad quality gasoline.

15:00 Transition has met small turn so have decided not to become impudent and pass any more border as all decent people. It has appeared, in vain. On the Hungarian party there was a huge turn, and we would be not not prevented very much by «a green corridor» which have organised in the opposite direction any "Gedendvagenu" with numbers of series VR. All transition has occupied hour ones and a half, that, in general, it is not a lot of. Hungarians did not carp.

And again the first kilometres of full confusion: we in settlement or not, what restrictions (in Hungary – 50/90/130, necessarily passing light out of settlements at any time) etc. After Poland adapted quickly, watching for behaviour of the local. Road excellent, but again taki, it is a lot of settlements, that strongly brakes. The route to Budapest lay through Niredgazu, Debrecen and Szolnok. From Niredgazy it was possible to taxi on paid avtoban around Miskolc and Eger (indexes regularly obligingly prompted this direction), but this time have not risked, besides it would be desirable to visit the largest city of east Hungary - Debrecen.

The first dialogue with a traffic police (if it is possible to name dialogue a sign language), and have stopped right after passing though like would break nothing. Apparently, have decided to check up simply documents, having noticed exotic numbers. Ukrainian and Russian cars in Hungary has not noticed never!

21:00 the City of Debrecen – third of road to Budapest. We go on signs to the centre (Centrum). And there a classical problem – all parkings paid, near many stand parkomaty and how to pay not clearly, Hungarian language at all does not give in to decoding, and forints in a pocket yet were not. parkanulis it is at own risk direct near any municipal building. Have bought a map (with problems – the local population in the majority does not understand neither Russian, nor English, sometimes only German), but there it has not been designated any hotel. In kafeshke in broken English (high school level) has explained to the waitress, that we search. It has taken away to the mistress. The sincere woman, has in detail explained all, was not too lazy to rise, pass on a crossroads and to show a direction. I consulted about not so expensive hotel, but she has understood, how it has appeared, too it is literally. Having driven to the specified address have got to student's hotel of type of a hostel, but practically in the centre. Having explained on fingers with administratorshej, have found out, that the pleasure costs $20 for a double room with a washstand, but without a bathroom ($1=210 forints). Other variants are not present. A parking in a court yard free of charge. To remain it would not be desirable, but it would be desirable to wander again on a city in searches even less where to stick itself and the car. It was necessary to leave dreams of a shower.

But the city has made the most favorable impression. The central area with fountains in classical Romance style. A huge cathedral, beautiful ancient houses in a harmonious combination to the modern constructions shining with show-windows and signboards. At restaurant on the area has asked something national – have brought the meat baked with a cauliflower in cheese, on a classical Hungarian cuisine a little similar. Then, in the same bar with the kind mistress, drank pure "Unique person" from ice piles – a drink of gods! After 23:00 the city has instantly become empty. It would be desirable to fall asleep faster as soon as possible to leave that ragged hostel which to us have recommended as inexpensive hotel. Have pledged to stop never more in similar places. In a consequence once it was necessary taki to break a word, but it was later …

15.07.2003, vt.

Good city that quickly and with the great pleasure to be ruined. Expensively everything, especially as to service sphere. To a taxi at all did not approach. The underground – 125 forints ($0,6) for a trip on one line. If not to fall outside the limits the central part, to visit museums and especially not to refuse to itself in coffee, beer, meal etc., $100 a day for two depart imperceptibly …

14:00 We go by the underground to the centre. Excursion it is begun with Peshta. In the first big book supermarket it is got the big illustrated directories about Hungary and Budapest in Russian which can be looked through at a leisure.

The city from the first steps amazes with monumentalism and grandiosity. At once it is visible, that built it in a big way, as empire capital. Foot street Vaci (we named it simply street Vasi) with ;) a large quantity of the most beautiful houses of every possible architectural styles. We have a snack slightly (but it is rather notable for a purse) on one of the areas fresh and absolutely not sharp guljashem. Further to a look appears grandiose a basil – the Cathedral St. Ishtvana. Unfortunately, it is closed for visiting on the occasion of repair so internal magnificence needs to be examined in a photo in the guidebook. A parliament building – the city card – it is possible to be amazed only to madness of the architect, so harmoniously stuck on it this extreme quantity of turrets. Along quay to the Chain bridge, on it on opposite coast to bottom of serf mountain. Upward to the Budajsky fortress we are lifted by a cable car (lifting of $5, descent of $4). Feet by this time already fall off, so first sight Budy for us the cafe becomes direct opposite to excavation of ruins of the Roman fortress.

To describe magnificence of a royal castle there is no sense is it is necessary to see. In the Fishing bastion (on a legend, this part of a fortification was protected by local fishermen) it is possible to sit, apparently, infinitely, slowly sipping coffee or beer and admiring views of Danube, Parliament and all Peshta. A lot of time has occupied wandering on narrow medieval small streets of a serf part of a city where time practically has not concerned dwellings of townspeople and it is possible to meet constructions, which not one hundred years. It has much more difficult appeared to find small restaurant with the present Hungarian cuisine, but to have supper similar to the truth paprikashem (meat or the chicken in special sauce with house noodles) in a picturesque institution was possible this time …

16.07.2003, compare

First half of day is devoted a trip to nearby small town Sentandre (on road has got confused in outcomes, it was necessary to break to taxi, but has carried by). Very pleasant place for slow rest: the ancient lock, ancient architecture, narrow small streets, the sea kafeshek and motelchikov. Crowds of aged Germans which behind the infinite coffee share impressions about former battles with Russian. There was there still a museum open-air type Pirogova, but it was reached somehow. By the way, there there was the first and the parking in Hungary for which has fairly paid is unique – already was delighted, when instead of parkomata has seen live parkovshchika! On a return way have visited the central market, where zatarilis souvenirs and cheap house very good tokaem in cylinders on 2-3 litres.

15:00 the Car takes a lawful place at hotel, we again in the centre of Budapest and before us a hard choice of a direction of the further excursion. Mountain Gellerta we endow in favour of the Area of Heroes constructed by Hungarians in honour of a millenium of finding of the Native land. To reach there is better by the underground. It is the first underground in Europe, the present miracle of technics on those times, and now – operating antiques. Very narrow tunnelchik, tiny stations, toy carriages, and music underneath at the announcement of stations … The area with monuments to the Hungarian kings and leaders of the first tribes grandiose, but dullish. It is similar to Maidan nezalezhnosti, but very big and very empty. But it is direct behind it – perfect park with lakes, a swimming bath and the lock. In its territory there is a monument mysterious Anonimusu is an unknown person Hungarian letopisets. In the same place, over lake, cosy, but very much not cheap restaurant. It would be desirable to have a bite very much, but have decided to look for something easier. It was necessary to bypass all to district, have not come across yet a good institution with a summer platform in greens. And somewhere nearby played invisible, but a live symphonic orchestra! And as played … And behind the next little table any Russian conductor learnt lives the Hungarian colleague, a pier art a hogwash – the main thing of the grandma! There also have tried the first present Hungarian goulash (an accent on) – something like improbably dense and soup with a large quantity of sharp meat. Have brought for two in supnitse such portion, that the second doest was already impossible.

21:00 On road to hotel have suddenly understood, that at change from one line of the underground on another it is necessary to pay a trip for everyone separately. It is good, that have not run into controllers – yesterday them was much. With surprise have found out, that for a national Hungarian cuisine searched at all there. At restaurant opposite to hotel from it was that's all right, and the prices are much more accessible. The second supper was not included into our plans, but to "Unique person" on 350 forints for a portion have given the due.

17.07.2003, cht.

12:00 Balaton especially has not impressed. Huge lake, such to itself the Kiev sea from different directions surrounded with resort small towns with a heap of hotels and restaurants. A relief boring, the nature usual. Us has brought on a platform of any elite yacht-club where had a drink coffee, observing for simple resort entertainments Hungarian jahtsmenov and their families. Have wandered a little on small town and have jerked back on the same avtobanu and by Budapest on another, that conducts to Romania (around a city where there are restrictions, there is automatic radar with cameras). Here the ambush also disappeared. It has appeared, that on it to an autobath the ticket does not operate. On entrance there is a barrier and it is necessary to pay about $15. Have decided, that the good road costs that, and have set. But it was yet all. Kilometres through 50 – other barrier, pay $5 more. What to do, have paid, have driven. And avtoban – bang! also has ended! Such divorce on-vengerski – 15 dollars for entrance and 5 for departure.

16:30 On road the nice city of Szeged well-known for uhoj on-segedynski laid. It also have appreciated at restaurant on the area. But as I have parked on a paid parking, naturally, free of charge, and nearby shastal the policeman with evakuatorom, survey of sights of a city have decided to offer in favour of the prompt achievement of border as already grew dark.

18:00 Transition have passed quickly and without serious consequences though Romanians have met with some suspiciousness – have carefully checked up documents, have in detail found out whence and where we go, have glanced in a luggage carrier. Transylvania with the centre in Brasheve ahead laid, but from it we were separated by 500 km across the most boring Western Romania where in boundless fields of eyes huge factories-monsters – monuments of times of the Soviet industrialisation "please" only. At once abroad have faced classical Romanian Gipsy divorce. Gasoline was already on zero (did not wish to refuel in Hungary – in Romania almost in 2 times more cheaply), therefore has called in on the first brendovuju refuelling – to it there was "Lukoil". It has appeared, that credit cards there do not accept, and pour to get change was not in time yet. Has offered them euro, on what has received the joyful consent. After the first filled in 7 litres the column suddenly sboit also is nulled. After repeated inclusion and full refuelling the counter shows 42 litres. The zapravshchik-gipsy long considers something and shows on the calculator a total sum – 70 euros! And, gasoline costs more cheaply $1 for litre, and in my tank 60 litres there are more does not get in any way! After long altercations on a mix of Romanian, English and Russian abusive 50 euros on what we disperse cry. The general result – have inflated at the best somewhere for 5 euros. Well though gasoline normal …

22:00 Road heavy, all time settlements with restriction 50. It is good, though on other roads the resolved speed of 100 km/h. When has darkened, began to look narrowly at hotels. In any city have found number for $40 in mean hotel, and it at all did not arrange. And good roadside motel, unfortunately, have missed and have decided not to come back. As a result have stopped in the first comer (near Alba Iulia - kilometres in hundred from Brasheva) in the beginning of the first of night. Had slightly a bite (the elderly waiter similar on were nomenkloturnuju obslugu, knowing some words in Russian, persistently offered „the best vodka"Stalin") and have gone to sleep in more than modest number with a toilet and a washstand, but without a shower (8 dollars for number), bitterly remembering the promises to spend the night only in good conditions...

18.07.2003, pt.

To spend the night have solved in Brasheve where have reached quickly and without adventures. Places there around beautiful, almost in each village a fortress or at least picturesque ruins. To examine all time a great lot so went not stopping is required. On a city it was necessary propetljat, being confused in small streets with an one-way traffic, in search of hotel. In the centre – from 60 to 90 euros in three stars. Have found similar for 50 minutes in 15 walkings from the centre - «Helis» *** (Str. Memorandului, 29; tel: 0040-268-410223). Stars are obviously tense, but in general of anything, purely and accurately, a shower, hot water what is necessary? Even (toasts, cheese, a ham, egg, coffee) since the morning have offered a continental breakfast free of charge!

The city has appeared very cosy. The centre, as everywhere in Europe, old, foot and with a great lot of small restaurants. There is there a rope-way on mountain under which the city, actually, is located, with restaurant above, but kanatka like did not work. Booths, anyway, did not go also light above was not. Therefore had supper in a good institution on the area meat spetsialitetom with mamalygoj, washing down with local very decent beer "Aurora" (before it were pinned, having reserved on habits "Hejneken" which in Hungary was the cheapest, and here has managed more expensively, than all other supper). The prices rather moderated - $10-15 for two quite suffice. Then walked on evening Brashevu, examining Black church, the Town hall and other architectural sights. Further still beer in a "creative" bar with the ancient car vseredine. In rumynii it is a lot of beer and it basically the good. Except local brands, type "Ursusa" and "Auroras", spill, as at us, "Tuborg", "Stelu" and other western grades. But for one evening of all you will not try and everywhere you will not visit, and to relax there is where …

19.07.2003, sb.

Further mountain roads (perfect kinds and everywhere sell excellent house cheese and wine) on Sinai. Here there a palace really impressing! The main thing, it was completely saved from the end of 19th century with an interior, conditions, utensils. Bogachesky there was a summer residence at the Romanian kings, lock Pelesh! The complex is protected by soldiers with automatic machines – probably is what to steal. Architecture with strongly pronounced Austrian and even the Swiss influence. In a complex with surrounding nature – it is pure the Alpes. Well and inside beauty simply indescribable, interiors smart, and practically all is cut out from a tree. There is the most thin carving, simply filigree job. Nearby still small royal residence Pelishor, but there did not come.

To time see you in the evening remains a little, therefore at once, not having had dinner, have jerked to Bucharest through which the road to Constance conducted. In the Romanian capital, by the way, the big problem with indexes, as well as in all cities in general (but not how at us, it is final), the plan in the atlas was not, so it was necessary to leave almost at random. On lines, by the way, with indexes of directions on the contrary a full order. At once beyond Bucharest has refuelled excellent benzinchikom on "SHele" – self-service, but all cultural, accept credit cards. Had a dinner at roadside small restaurant where Romanians just walked wedding so music underneath in national style has been provided. Have found even a paid slice avtobana on road to Constance! It cost all about dollar, but also comfortable driving with a speed 130 for this money it was offered all kilometres 10-15. Heard, that from Bucharest on the south whether build, whether have already constructed a new highway (on a map it has been designated as under construction), but have decided not to check and have gone on minor roads.

In Constance were already zatemno, but in a direction of resort small towns the Neptune, Jupiter and the Olympus therefrom have very easily taxied. Cars – not to force the way. In one of reports someone from predecessors recommended there hotel "Meteor" (Jupiter, Tel. 041-731306) which have found out absolutely casually though basically it was possible to choose any. 30 euros for dablrum are an average price for tryohzvyozdochnogo hotel in this part of coast (two-stars time in 2 more cheaply). Stars are rather conditional: the breakfast is not present, conveniences in number are minimum. But a view of the sea from a balcony and a beach at once at walls. Credit cards did not accept, so have promised to pay off tomorrow, have left the passport as a deposit and have gone to search for a cash dispense. One taki was found out, but flatly refused to give out cash, offering only one absolutely not clear transaction. It was necessary in a night bar (was already zapolnoch) for pitsu (more than anything the food was not) and beer to pay "evrami". Delivery have sufficed to buy still pair banok "Tuborga" in night shop with themselves …

20.07.2003, vs.

Way through Mangaliju to border. To a frontier point no more than hour of driving. Romanians have passed quickly, having removed 50000 pour ecological gathering ($1 = 33000 pour). And on the Bulgarian party of all two groups of German and Swedish bikers which have impudently climbed through forward have detained. Bulgarians took $19 of road gathering – this sum is collected for journey not further Sozopolja. And pogranets was very dissatisfied, that I have offered 20 euros and have unwillingly given delivery of $1.

Hurrah! At last rather clear language and all inscriptions on Cyrillics! Have gone cheerfully further. The stand on entrance to Bulgaria ordered restriction 90 for automobile on the country (about restrictions in settlements and on highways it has been told nothing) to that tried to adhere. Roads have appeared awful, almost as in Ukraine, but with a marking. On many sites there was repair work, that, of course, strongly braked. 2 times ran into police ambushes, and in the most artful places. Once – in the end of a short highway where they have hidden at once behind turn behind a sign 80, but passers actively warned. Another – at once beyond Burgas on the road very similar to a highway, but with standard restriction 90, but also here I did not break. With indexes in cities too not always the order, in particular was necessary propetljat across Varna in search of departure in the necessary direction.

At last we in seaside small town Chernomorets near to Sozopolja where had already a rest about 6 years ago and remained since then very pleasant impressions as from an inexpensive youth resort. Here all has appeared still unless some new taverns have appeared. Normal big hotels here are not present, only private cottages of different level of comfort. Have found one minihotel at level of three stars in 50 metres from the coast which mistress asked 50 levov ($1 = 1,75 levov) for a double room with a bathroom, kondishinom, the TV and a view of the sea, but places were released only in 2 days. The agency in which we have addressed at once on arrival (it is necessary to be registered on a place in any similar agency) by the evening taki has picked up to us a suitable room for 5 days, that together with registration has managed almost in $100. Without the conditioner. A toilet separate, but through a corridor. But a cottage very pleasant, with a good court yard where there is a lawn, pool, fontanchik, a barbecue and the big oak table. And even a refrigerator with beer and water which could be used in any quantities (in reasonable limits, it is final) free of charge! The owner – healthy fellow Zdravko – very sincere, invited all time to a supper with shish kebabs, treated rakiej own manufacture and magnificent enormous fleshy tomatoes «the bull heart» from the kitchen garden. And the mistress has arranged to us the big washing that was far not superfluous after 10 days in a way.

However, 5 days of idleness on a beach in CHernomortse have bored quickly, as small town, though also picturesque (the former fishing small village), but small, even is no place to walk practically. As all to a pain was familiar after last trip – any new impressions. The basic contingent now – family Bulgarians with small children. Germans whom last time there was a large quantity, now it is not visible almost. But also Russian too. And the sea has appeared extremely dirty. Have decided, that conditions will need to be replaced.

25.07.2003, pt.

parkanulis on paid parking (1 lion in an hour) also have gone to search for a haven the next 5 days. Have initially appeared in the newest part where buildings with might and main boil. Tryohzvyozdnye hotels over the sea on 40-50 euros for number all are hammered. There are hotels and more abruptly. In the same place have found a quite good variant for 30 with the conditioner in a private cottage, but just in case have gone to walk further. Have come across tour agency "Stack" (street Jani popova, 2; bodies: +359 (550) 24368, 24135) with russkogovorjashchim the manager which has offered number in minihotel with a bathroom, but without the conditioner, for 105 euros for 5 days with registration and registration. From a balcony the sea a little bit is visible. 5 mines to the central beach and 7 mines to the new. A parking in the street it is free and without protection, but us have convinced, what is it safely. Upon that also have settled and have straight off reserved excursion in national Bulgarian village with dances on coals on 16 euros from the person. As it has appeared, have dissolved us as lohov. The village has appeared usual hotel in 7 km from a city with mehanoj (restaurant in national style), pool and two subjects of a national life where to us have read lecture from history Sozopolja and have shown the unpretentious program with dances. Well though coals were the presents, as well as the lamb baked in clay, stuffed rice – obedenie! Well and house wine in unlimited quantities.

Fault in Bulgaria very much not bad, is better Moldavian and, certainly, Ukrainian. And, habitual «the Bear blood"and"the Monastic log hut», meet seldom and are considered as the second-grade. In the summer, of course, is better to drink the cold white. Dry muscats are very good, "Muscat" Torgovishche »(9 levov for a bottle at expensive restaurant) has especially liked. Rakija everything is good almost, except cheap stamps, but personally me has especially suited to taste again taki"Muskatova". And here cognacs (is more exact, brendi) good are not present in general.

Meal traditional Black Sea, with strongly pronounced Tatar motives: a shish kebab (shish or shishche – small shashlychok on shpazhke), kebap (kebapche), kjufte. Shopsky salad – out of competition, and portions to the Kiev measures simply huge. The every possible grill (skara) is very popular. Fishes too a lot of different, basically or fry it in panirovke (sir), or is simple on a grill. A firm shark this time to try have not dared after last poisoning. The most expensive supper in very stylish mehane has managed approximately in $20 for two with wine, but basically suffices and 10.

And with cigarettes – accident. On sale practically only the Bulgarian. Occasionally it was possible to notice only "Davidoff", "Malboro-lajt" and "Kareliya", and that very expensively and not everywhere. Has carried, that have found on cheap stuff from under a counter the block bezaktsiznyh from "duty free" – demand gives rise to the offer.

Couple of days shtormilo so to bathe it was problematic. And water here too has appeared though also warm, but dirty – at coast simply green porridge. It is said that before such was not. But to sunbathe there was a possibility in plenty (6 levov for a place under an umbrella with two chaise lounges). Days flied imperceptibly...

31.07.2003, cht.

Has filled in on "Lukoil" of 20 litres. That remains, by calculations just sufficed to Ukraine. Gasoline has appeared simply awful – in Bulgaria such too happens. The road along the Bulgarian coast was already familiar and very quiet. Here only polices – as mushrooms after a rain! Has counted 3 usual posts and 2 meanest ambushes on these unfortunate 300 km! As it is good, that did not break … But it still that! In Romania after 6th post in general has lost count!

The bolgarsko-Romanian transition has appeared marvellously long, hour on 2. There also have spent all are left to last stotinki on 2 coffee and a pack of cigarettes. Romanians have forced to pass disinfection (such shower for the car from above, from below and from sides), having removed for it in addition to last ecological gathering 50000 more pour.

And again bezbashennye the Romanian roads from which already has had time to wean. Go all as want, signal napropoluju. For Romanians normal business to stop in the middle of road, having occupied the whole strip on a two-way line to open the left door, to leave and begin to talk, smoke with somebody or still something to be engaged. In cities from the cars which have parked in the middle of streets constant jams. And pedestrians, similar, at all do not suspect, for what these are drawn on asphalt polosochki (transitions) and go where want. On roads animal-drawn vehicles with haystacks continually come across, and dogs shnyrjajut there-here is simply constant – such impression, that, in difference from them, our four-footed friends study PDD.

In Constance have gone astray – with indexes there very hardly. Have called in in next resort Mamaju, for entrance where it was necessary also money to pay. But at attempt to taxi on a line aside Tulchi have lost the way even more, have called in in general it is not known where and to get out it was necessary, being guided on the sun! The blessing, an instinct has finished to a line, and after all Russian in Romania for some reason to Kiev does not lead up that. Even English.

Time have killed a great lot so from Tulchi along Danube to Galatz went already when got dark. But kinds were magnificent, and behind the river – the Native land! In Garvane the line left sharply to the left, and did to Galatz the big hook of kilometres on 50. The wife has suggested to cut off on road of local value, on what, not having looked at a map, with pleasure has agreed. Kilometres through 10 betonki we leave to Danube. And, about horror, the bridge is not present! I understand – a ferry. The blessing ferry was going to just to depart. Having understood, that without assistance with transportation system not to understand, I approach directly to someone similar to the captain, and in English I ask, how much is journey and how to pay. He tries to explain something in own way, then waves a hand and itself conducts me in cash desk. Something explains to the cashier and draws the sum equivalent of $5 on a piece of paper. Lei, fortunately, in a pocket still is. I receive a treasured ticket and with ten waggons and several legkovushkami onboard, including ours Mitsubishi, the ferry slowly crosses Danube. On other party a seaport Galatz sparkles fires in darkness and rattles music. These 20 minutes of rest on water after the whole day at the wheel stand that!

Road to the rumynsko-Moldavian transition, despite darkness, it is easily found under indexes "Zona Libera" (obviously, it means "customs area"). There again turn. Though and not big but to stand it was necessary. That at the Romanian was peresmenka customs officers with pograntsami had simply a rest, but have staid hour two not moving at all. Customs officers have given special attention to a car origin, long punched the log on computer bases, have asked to open a cowl and have verified body number. Were interested, whether there are «new things», i.e. the unopened goods which can be sold. ;) On surpluses alkagolja in luggage anybody has not turned attention, though on a kind there was a whole box. Moldavians have kept in turn still at least hour-one and a half. Quick djadechka has spent something of disinfection type and though I tried to resist, it has appeared, that procedure quite legal and is paid together with other gathering in the general cash desk. It costed any copecks. In Moldova long were not late. Having drunk on coffee and having eaten on kruasanu (it is more in cafe from meal than nothing was) have moved towards the native earth.

The Moldavian-Ukrainian customs has passed already as a fairy tale. In turn there only lorries – automobile pass instantly. With pleasure it was threw by several words with ours pograntsom. Has asked on where it is better to refuel and as in Reni with hotels – was more than 2 nights, nakrapyval the rain and to go on our roads to such time it would not be desirable any more. The essential information from pograntsa to receive it was not possible, but though language native!

The good city of Reni, is a lot of hotels, but at 3 o'clock in the morning to find them somehow is problematic. Have confidently reached to the centre, have talked to the saleswoman of a night little shop (at last normal cigarettes!), have driven to the central hotel. Horror! Ragged, glasses are beaten partially out and closed up by plywood, everywhere a dirt … have hardly woken administratorshu which only has made a helpless gesture – places are not present. It was necessary to wind still, cautiously glancing on for a long time burning bulb of almost empty petrol tank. In port where, on idea, more or less normal hotel, muzhichyok on watch has informed sympathetically that is direct before us the bus has approached and tourists have disassembled all numbers. On our question: «And what to do?», - has shrugged shoulders. «Is, - speaks, - here one abrupt gangster hotel, its mafia holds, but the prices there o-o th – 150 grn. From the person!"." Give, - we speak, - the address ». This awful gangster hotel appears very accurate minihotel with numbers from 60 to 150 grn. For double, a supervised parking and the affable personnel. Only here the bar did not work, so is filled up hours per 5 mornings without a supper (or already without a breakfast) …

01.08.2003, pt.

In the centre of Izmail the scent finds the best and, naturally, most snobsky restaurant (about the prices I am silent – copecks) where reserves a dense breakfast, slightly shocking group of the schooled waiters the rumpled and dusty road kind. We buy a map. In a city to look there is almost nothing: church, a monument to Suvorov and, actually, port. In memory something about an Izmail fortress, but as it has appeared, Suvorov that and has levelled it in due time with the earth. Not being late more, we go on Vilkovo.

The Ukrainian Venice has appeared dirty provincial gorodishkoj with the broken roads (that for a theme in this region to pave streets concrete plates!). Bridges over the dry flutes which have grown with greens in any way similar on well-known eriki (channels) on which it is possible to float by boats everywhere come across. We find one big channel with a huge congestion of boats where to us there and then offer walk on water, but napravljaemja in port where the tourist centre, actually, is located. Buses with tourists from neighbouring camp sites here gather. The sad fellow from the peeled box with an inscription the "Tour agency", called as the guide, offers walk on a boat with arrival on island of conservatives where ancient traditions were saved. But, having looked at numbers, waves a hand: « And, you from Kiev, well for you here interesting are not present anything ». A pier, you come here constantly, go, look, and then leave absolutely disappointed. Really, tourist inforastruktura in a city at all is absent. Even the bar in"Rocket"standing on a pedestal (the former children's cinema) does not work for a long time. For VIP-tourists there are some decent numbers in the improvised hotel in a building of administration of the Danube natural reserve. All channels started, partially them fall asleep. So this year also the drought, water from channels has left, to float on them it is impossible – only the central channel and remained. But a place all the same very interesting – on all city of only 200 cars and 2000 boats! All with gos. Numbers. Same year have as superfluous dismissed last GAI officer.

The following point – Belgorod-Dnestrovsky. Wished to drive transit, but, naturally, have got confused in the centre (the uniform index) and have suddenly left at coast to a huge fortress! Here is what to look, where polazit. A fortress ancient, XIV centuries, constructed by ubiquitous genoeses on ruins of even more ancient Greek city the Shooting gallery (ruins are carefully protected – archaeological researches there are conducted). From towers – a magnificent kind on estuary. We try to cross an internal court yard on a grassy lawn as suddenly from a grass clouds of huge fat mosquitoes rise! Each step lifts a new wave. They stick round from different directions, climb everywhere and ring! Waving away hands it is run out outside, leaving an ancient fortress under reliable protection of its last defenders.

To leave a city it is possible with the big work (roads are not present in general – continuous potholes) only by constant inquiries of passers-by. Through Zatoku along estuary it is taxied to Odessa. On road a great lot of resort places but as strikingly they differ from European …

To Odessa it is driven to hours to 8 evenings. The unpretentious scheme of streets of a city does not rescue – quickly we get confused. Almost at random we get out on the French parkway, and in the end of it, as-time near Arcadys, inexpensive hotel "Youth" known to us. It appears, inexpensive it only in inter-season period, and in the summer a usual double room costs 300 grn, time lux in two is more expensive. Killed number in the block with one bathroom on two rooms without repair – 130-140 grn. There is nothing, on searches of the best variant of forces is not present. After a shower we go to the centre where it is hanged till the night in Seaside parkway and Deribasovsky. Day comes to an end sumashedshej with a trip on the wheelbarrow caught casually to hotel in style "Taxi". Speed on break roads nearby 120, traffic lights are ignored, the suspension bracket groans, few times, having jumped up and having landed, clung the bottom about asphalt (!) – sparks probably flied extensively. It should so to be liked the car...

02.08.2003, sb.

Successfully I refuel on "UkrTatNafte". The road to Kiev is given easily and flies by imperceptibly though throughout all way there is a scale building smart avtobana. Such impression, that brigades here have driven from all Ukraine, and everyone builds on the technology. To movement building not strongly stirs, as many new sites are handed already over and very often it is possible to be dispersed freely to 140-160. To relax do not give only DAIshniki, but passers regularly warn about ambushes so we do without troubles. Well and the highway, apparently, by the end of year will be simply magnificent! If now all road from the centre of Odessa to the centre of Kiev has occupied 4 and a half an hour for how much it will be possible to reach then …

On the approach to Kiev it is had dinner at good roadside small restaurant and we sum up. For 20 days of travel it is passed more than 6 thousand kilometres, and the car has staid half of this term, waiting while we will take pleasure in the sea. For this time have visited 4 countries (plus pair of kilometres across Moldova). With the account of time returning to Ukraine after Poland have overcome 8 customs transitions. For all about all it is spent about $2000. For all time the car has not demanded any intervention in the interiors, not including pumpings of wheels and a periodic sink. An easy indisposition felt only from bad gasoline which time in Ukraine and time of Bulgaria has got. The luggage carrier is full of souvenirs, the key place among which is occupied with the best samples of the goods of the alcoholic industry of all visited countries. In the press 3 films of photos are sent. Impressions quite will suffice for the whole year.