Pearls of East Ukraine – three capitals of one country

«To East Ukraine? Waste heaps to look?». Such comment could be heard repeatedly when informed somebody on plans for the next trip. Many are assured, that to the east from Kiev, with rare exception, anything interesting to the normal tourist is not present. Really, the most part of Slobodsky Ukraine of the beginning actively to be occupied only with ХV ІІ-ХV ІІІ centuries However, is there and monuments of times of Ancient Russia. Let alone a brilliant century of blossoming of a sugar industry when the edge was overflowed by a wave of magnificent farmstead building. In it more than once there was a possibility to be convinced personally during short sorties and transit fares on region. This time, having armed with the new guidebook «All Ukraine», and also a scanty information from the Internet, have decided to drive purposefully in all interesting places of the Chernigov, Sumy and Kharkov area. Ways, so to say, not beaten. Has not managed as without disappointments, and surprising opening.

CHernigovshchina
(Are abrupt – Olenovka – Baturin – Korop – Vishenki – Novgorod-Seversky)

First hundred kilometres of an excellent Chernigov line is only preparation for travel. More such qualitative roads on a route will not be before the returning. Kozelets and Ostyor it is passed, here already happened repeatedly. We turn off on Moscow line Е101. Already here meets a huge board with instructions of distance to three objects which have started to revive recently at will of the President: Are abrupt, Olenovka, Baturin. With indexes have hastened, not all objects are still ready. As well as the qualitative access roads promised by Ministry of Transport.

The first turn on Are abrupt it is necessary to pass, and to turn through some kilometres under the index on a memorial complex. The Country road passes through with. Prochoruses also comes to an end with the T-shaped crossroads. Here indexes to put were not in time yet (it is necessary to turn on the left, and then to the right – to a railway crossing). Here already towers monumental stela, representing kolonu the Red case of the Kiev university, with a memorable sign in honour of heroes It is abrupt. In 1918 on this place polegli 300 Ukrainian students sent short-sighted Central Glad to constrain approach of many thousands Bolshevist armies Muravyova. Jobs financed by oligarchs on a complex construction go at full speed. Speak, will finish by next year.

10 more km on a line, and the next index recommends to visit Kulish's memorial estate Pantelejmona «Ganin of deserts» in with. Olenovka. I recommend also. A memorial in the homeland of the writer have started to create earlier, since 2000 the Idea belongs to the native of these places Ivan Pljushchu heading then the Ukrainian parliament. Job is done since then the big: the museum is created, tombs are improved, Kulish's manor and his wives is built up (and colleagues on literary craft) Ghana Barvinok, the garden is planted and the pond is dug out. All this picturesque economy is organically integrated into a usual modern rural life. All is pure and uhozheno. Obviously, with financing at a museum of problems is not present. It is easy to guess, that for a beautiful private private residence towers on opposite coast of a pond …

At last, the third object – Baturin. What to tell, contrast in comparison with last visiting of a palace of Razumovskys the striking. It simply building of a century! Two huge wings are already restored from zero. The basic case all in woods, but the future magnificence is already well read. The palace amazes with the sizes and grandiosity as though costs not in the Chernigov village, and somewhere in capital. As a matter of fact, so it also is. Baturin long time was hetman capital of Ukraine while in 1708 it was erased from the person of the earth Menshikov's by gallant Russian tell-tales in revenge for Mazepa's "treachery". Only in 1750 last Ukrainian hetman Cyril Razumovsky has received the permission to residence restoration in Baturin. A palace under the well-known Charles Kamerona's project have finished only in 1803, but to be in him to the owner it was not fated – he has died the same year. Then there was a fire, then revolution … So a building and has staid ownerless 200 years, wings in general have disassembled on bricks.

And by 2007 here will open an Ukrainian language museum getmanstva. Restore also Razumovsky's Voznesensky church-tomb, and Kochubey's House which was until recently here a unique place where the infrequent tourist could get poor data on local sights. In memory of victims baturinskoj slaughter (all population has been destroyed, including women and children) the huge cross is established. Similar, the small town has every chance to become one of the centres of the Ukrainian tourism if money at oligarchs suffices on all grandiose plans of the government.

Through 15 km it is turned off from a line in the Chernigov remote places. A direction on Korop. This small district on the bank of Desna can brag of centuries-old history, since IX century However, to search for traces annalistic Horobora sense is not present – was saved nothing. There are only two later churches: operating Voznesensky (1764) and dilapidated Ilinsky (1750-60). Almost coevals, stand through road from each other. Ilinsky it is constructed in defensive style. Paradox, but it also is destroyed. To look at this scandalous historical injustice – a unique occasion to stop off, if you are not the admirer of the well-known terrorist-tsareubijtsy koropchanina Kibalchicha in which honour during Soviet times the monument has been established and the museum is opened.

It is much more interesting to call in in the next village Vishenki, that kilometres in ten to the northeast, on opposite coast of Desna. Got to the centre the surprising show opens. Over the big pond the magnificent palace of the field marshal Rumjantseva-Zadunajsky (1787) in which elements of a gothic style and east motives are extraordinary harmoniously combined soars. The hero of Russian-Turkish war was the big fan of architecture, had on the country some palaces in different styles, and in Vishenkah and next CHereshenkah has constructed some pleasure institutions which involved the neighbouring nobility and even more high-ranking persons. In particular, here the count accepted empress Catherine II during its travel to Crimea. Now the palace is partially disassembled, in its territory the children's boarding house has settled down, but on the bank of a pond any excavations giving to hope of possibility of restoration are conducted.

More close by the end of day we to Novgorod-Severskom (I do not understand why in Russian it "seversky" if it is named by name a slavic tribe sivertsev). A city of contrasts! Very much zashtatnyj on spirit and a social infrastructure, but sporting ultramodern mirror buildings of railway station and chetyryohzvyozdochnogo hotel "Slavic", as if transferred here from other reality. Located on high coast of Desna the Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy monastery (XI-XVII centuries) It is fine restored, «Words about shelf Igorevom» can envy the museum equipment many capital galleries (the truth, an exposition bednovata). All this beauty became an original farewell gift of the former minister of transport of Ukraine George Kirpy to then president Leonid Kuchma who was born nearby, in with. CHajkino. A complex of building and reconstruction jobs in a city had time to finish in 2004, just on the eve of Kuchma's resignation and premature demise Kirpy. At least, the heritage for descendants remains good. The main thing that all has not collapsed in the absence of the finance. After all the weak stream of rather poor tourists is hardly capable to provide though any profitableness of reserve (at 1 grn. For an input!), as well as luxurious hotel in the neighbourhood.

All not numerous sights are located around a triangle of the central streets Pushkin, Marx and Lenin. It is the Uspensky cathedral (1671), operating trading numbers (XIX century), a triumphal arch (XVIII century) and a monument to local prince Igor Svjatoslavichu, whose adventures in XII century on polovetskim to the earths the unknown author in well-known «the Word …» has immortalised. "Ball" over a head of the prince is a solar eclipse which prophesied it failure in a campaign. On a grief Zamkovoj where was once princely detinets, there is monument Bojanu. In the monastery, except a museum, it is possible to visit the Peter and Paul church (1693), a 30-metre vault (klaustrofobam I do not recommend, strashnovato there to wander in darkness with a candle) and a picturesque wooden Southern tower with panoramas of Desna. The river has amazed with unknown flood in this spring. Water with greens islets is stretched to horizon – the sea! Where, actually, a river channel, even to define at first sight it is difficult.

Lodgings for the night
It is a little variants. To Novgorod-Severskom – only two polarly different. Smart "Slavic" **** (Lunacharsky's street, 2; bodies: (04658) 31-551) offers comfortable numbers from 300 grn. The European level of service is seasoned by "national colour» (all personnel can disappear somewhere, it is necessary to search for the parlourmaid on all floors). A budgetary lodging for the night small hotel "Tavern" (offers street K.Marksa, 1; bodies: (04658) 31-531) in an ancient building on the main area and with almost same ancient repair. Double with conveniences here costs 75 grn. If it will be possible to hold on till the end of day to Gluhov, it is possible to choose motel «Getmansky двір» (with. A birch, street Moscow, 8; bodies: (05444) 24-101, office: 22-136) on a line Kiev-Moscow. Worthy level of comfort will be provided with junior suites for 200 grn., it is possible poparitsja from road in banke.

Public catering
Even if you have left Kiev very much early, do not regret time for «the second breakfast» in an auto-grill "Mislivets" (the Chernigov line, item Kozelets) which, as well as other institutions of this network across Ukraine, guarantees good kitchen and pleasant service. Further with a food will be worse. On a line around Baturin unpretentious autotourists can have a bite in one of ordinary-looking points for truckers. To Novgorod-Severskom if you will be frightened off by mustiness of a premise of cafe-bar "Eldorado" on hotel "Tavern" ground floor, it is necessary to have supper at pathos restaurant of hotel "Slavic" (15 grn for the basic dish, in a hall do not smoke), and the rest of evening to spend in a local disco-bar. Living in "Slavyansk" can use rum-service services that is much more pleasant, than to sit in an empty restaurant hall.

Sumshchina
(Voronezh – Gamalievka – Gluhov – Putivl – Kijanitsa – Sumy)

Road from Novgorod-Severskogo on Gluhov not for the nervous. Has put at all in quality. Atmosphere on all way any very oppressing. To begin with we get in SHostku, glorified on all former Union a film "Svema". It has not sustained a competition with "Kodakom" – enormous cases of the factory feeding once an industrial city, gape empty windows. The enormous Mihajlovsky church (1776-81) in the next settlement with Russian name Voronezh is not entered at all in an unattractive semiindustrial landscape. But the biggest impression was made by a defensive monastery in Gamalievke (1702) With a cathedral of Christmas of the Virgin. The monastery, long time were under patronage of hetman I.Skoropadskogo, is enclosed by a high wall with a barbed wire on top. On the closed territory there pass tracks. Watchtowers stick out. On a shoulder of the security guard in a camouflage I notice the automatic machine … Prison!? To check this version at local residents it would not be desirable at all. Heroic effort I induce itself to do pair of pictures from the next hillock, and run from here …

Concepts "province" and «zashtatnyj» can be realised small town to the full in Gluhov. And the name what approaching! However, clever historians assert, that toponim occurs not from "backwoods", and from a word of "deaf person" (in sense, "continuous", "strong") which characterised the local lock-detinets in XII century. The site of ancient settlement on small river Esman cape together with the rests of later strengthenings gluhovskoj a fortress (1635) is a part of historical and cultural reserve. About defensibility of a city which has visited hands and Tatars, and Lithuania, and Speech pospolitoj, remind only the Kiev gate yes the name of street Total. And after all in XVIII century Gluhov as the hetman residence, actually was capital of Ukraine! Cossack are glad passed before the Nikolaev church (1693) which and now towers over the Cathedral area. Constructed on means of brothers-saharozavodchikov Tereshchenko Three-Anastasevsky church (1884-93) With a marble iconostasis reminds forms the Vladimir cathedral in Kiev. There are at a place influential patrons and now – much for its revival spiritual and a cultural heritage the known family in politiko-oligarchical circles Derkachej has made. It is pleasant to walk on svezheotremontirovannoj central peshehodke, to sit in cosy park with monuments well-known gluhovchanam to Berezovsky and Bortnjansky, to admire cheerful buildings of the former meeting Of noble family (1811) and Pedagogical university (1874-79).

The opposite impression makes not less ancient Putivl. The life has not enough, the central part looks slovenly, the separate buildings redeemed under shops "are improved" only. Similar, local authorities are not disturbed completely not by tourist appeal of a city – there is no either hotels, or a decent small restaurant. To go it is necessary directly on a specific platform of Small town near to the central area. Here stood annalistic Putivl novgorod-siverskih princes Olgovichej, from here Igor Svjatoslavich has acted in the fatal campaign on polovtsev, on walls local detintsa cried knjazhna JAroslavna, having learnt about capture of the husband. The rests of an Old Russian temple of Rise it is not visible – they are preserved under the earth till the best times. There are only magnificent kinds on a valley of the Diet and monument JAroslavne to which and it would be desirable to attribute popular «PREVED!» . To a defensive Molchansky monastery on the next hill it is possible to pass or from below, along coast, or on top, on "heroic" streets of Kirov, Kalinin, Kovpak, SHCHorsa. More recently here with a pomp have noted revival of the Cathedral of Christmas of the Virgin (1575-85). And the monastery the half-millenium ago on the basis of the stone Kremlin XVI centuries by the monks who have got over in Putivl from a country monastery in village the New Large village (now – the Sofronovsky monastery) has been erected. I warn, that road not from lungs even for cars with the raised passableness though for quality of the central streets local dorozhnikam it is possible to put firm "four".

On turn at us a vicinity of Sumy. Towards the Russian border line Р01 conducts. At once for road Hotenju through lesok goes down to the big pond on which coast ruins of old sugar factory attain the age. Landowner Leschinsky has constructed it in 1866 literally side by side with the manor Kijanitsa which was saved much better. Similar, taste at Leschinskys was excellent – the palace can be carried safely in the category of pearls of farmstead building of the north of Ukraine. Until recently the rest house "Kijanitsa" here was based. Now the building has passed in conducting Agrarian university, slow reconstruction has begun. Builders say, that from it the comfortable boarding house will turn out, but about time for completion of jobs they do not know. Especially romantically the palace looks from a pond opposite side where it is necessary to call in at least for the sake of several picturesque photoshots.

The regional centre is logical for choosing for a stop on rest and a lodging for the night. Hotels of different level of service, the wide choice of pleasure institutions, relative cleanliness and an order Here is a lot of. The restored historical centre has to the pedestrian walk. On foot "hundred-metre race" the Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy cathedral (1776-88) towers, divine services on holidays unusually broadcast on all street. Reconstruction and parallel street Frunze (it is recently renamed in Voskresensky) where the oldest dominates in a city the Piously-Voskresensky cathedral (1702) is finished. In this area all houses elegant and smart. Most of all vanities on the Red area where the basic transport highways are crossed. Here it is necessary to look on altanku (1901) in square – a monument to unsuccessful search of "oil".

The spirit of old Sumy can be felt more full among old building of street Peter and Paul or Dzerzhinsky, which on other coast of small river of the Bag. On a legend, on a place of a confluence of the Bag in Psel poselentsami in ХV ІІ century have been found by the first three sumy with money. This joyful event has entitled both to small river, and a city, and precious bags even are represented on its arms. The first Cossack wooden jail was somewhere around the present area of Independence. Now it is the administrative centre of the city which have been built up in 1970th years in the best traditions of "rectilinear" Soviet architecture. In general, in a city a lot of original and even some vanguard public buildings of an epoch of socialism which are now an integral part of its architectural ensemble.

Lodgings for the night
To spend the night with decent comfort after Gluhov it is possible only in Sumy. The best conditions for today hotel "Voskresensky" in the centre (offers Independence square, 15; bodies: (0542) 60-45-01), but with dablrumami on 320 grn. Not for long and to be ruined. On this background tryohzvyozdochnyj "Chemist-Intourist" (street Pselsky, 14; bodies: (0542) 22-45-00) with numbers from 160 grn. Looks much demokratichnee. The Same for whom cosy house atmosphere is more important "zvyozdnosti", it is possible to recommend private minihotel «On Pselsky» (street Pselsky, 26; bodies: (0542) 21-07-37), that a stone's throw away from "Chemist". For 100 grn. You receive unpretentious number with all conveniences, pleasant addition to which will be the Finnish sauna with pool and a green court yard with a platform for picnics. If night has found on road to Kharkov, at your order there will be one of several motels and bases of rest of fashionable SPA-resort Bujmerovka under Ahtyrkoj, or hotel "Oil industry worker" of level of three stars (Ahtyrka, Pushkin's street, 5; bodies: (05446) 24-905).

Public catering
In Putivle advise small restaurant «gostinyj a court yard», but about its existence have learnt already after a trip. It was necessary to be content suhpajkom from a local epicure. Present «the stomach holiday» is better for postponing to Sumy. Unequivocally we recommend beer restaurant «On Pselsky» (street Pselsky, 26) in a rest complex near to the minihotel with the same name where cook own beer "Pselsky". The quantity of foreigners on soul of visitors speaks about its worthy level. It is tasty and expensively feed well-founded clients at solid restaurant at hotel "Voskresensky". And it is a lot of to be sated with a fat Ukrainian cuisine with national colour it is possible in «Old mline» (the lane Country, 9а) is a little away from the centre. Beyond Sumy to have a dinner it is possible in one of decent roadside complexes in area Bujmerovki, or in ahtyrskom small restaurant "Hunter" almost in the city centre.

Harkovshchina
(Bottoms – the Baize – Trostjanets – Ahtyrka – Parhomovka – Vladimirovka – SHarovka – Old Merchik – Kharkov)

Our way from Sumy lays towards Kharkov. Between two cities also it is a lot of sights. Admirers of creativity of Tchaikovsky for certain will not pass settlement Bottoms where the classic scooped inspiration in a current of several years, spending summer vacations on the nature. To orient easily on the restored church of XIX century in the centre. The small wooden farmstead house of the provincial landowner in park on coast Psla is typical so, that scenes from «the Cherry garden» can be played in persons directly on nature. It would be desirable to get to a memorial museum of the composer but where to search for somebody from administration who will open doors in the music world?

From a line Sumy-Ahtyrka should be curtailed on the Baize. In sight on horizon belokamennaja the Voznesensky church (1808) at once gets, and then does not disappear in a current of all five kilometres prosyolka. At first it seems very small, that is natural to tiny village. The real scale of a construction becomes obvious only when start to go down to a pond on which coast rural small houses stick out. In comparison with surrounding constructions the temple looks simply enormous! Absolutely close to approach not necessarily, not to spoil impression a kind of bare walls. Probably, difficultly for the bill of the poor local budget constantly to support such large object in a good condition.

If historical monuments Sumshchiny while are deprived by attention of the state, the private initiative already gives the fruits. In it it is possible to be convinced in Trostjantse (not to confuse to park Trostjanets, that of the Chernigov area!). By the end 90 local sight – the manor the Round court yard (XVIII century) – represented a pity show. The private circus of princes Golitsynyh in the form of a medieval castle where the local nobility had a good time bright shows with participation of dancers, musicians and acrobats, for years of the Soviet power was confidently ruined. Only thanks to efforts of patrons of art in 2000 year «the rural Collosseo» has been restored. Unfortunately, further business is not has gone. To transform unique manor into the tourist centre yet it was not possible. Representations are not spent, nobody organises excursions, fresh plaster places already falls off. The beautiful farmstead house in century park in the neighbourhood which the hand of the restorer at all did not concern, continues to collapse.

Short stop in Ahtyrke. The big district with proof industrial image can interest more likely as the reloading point – is where to attempt and spend the night. From sights it is possible to note the Pokrovsk cathedral (1753-68) in which designing Rastrelli has taken a hand, the next Vvedensky church (1774-84) in the form of a belltower, and also surprising by sight Mihajlovsky church (1884) with domes-balls. But as a whole the city is uninviting for the tourist.

We drive to the Kharkov area which was famous in days of old for the whole gallery of masterpieces of dvortsovo-park art. Up to now have lived far not everything, but to find out it is possible simply unique things.

Parhomovka – village as village. Hens go, in court yard muzhiks drive moonshine. We taxi up to a small palace of count Podgorichani (XIX century). The Italian roots of the former owner are given out by architecture in style of the Florentine palaces. The guidebook poorly specifies in existence here a certain rural art museum. «Also what at you is the interesting?», I ask at smotritelnitsy an input. «At all of us it is interesting», - it is proud she answers. Having smiled indulgently, we enter inside – perhaps though interiors were saved …

Taki yes, were saved. Here pictures. It is a lot of.

«It that, Roerich?», - not believing the eyes, I examine the original. «And here Hodosevich, Kandinsky …», - Ksjuha, thumbing through an album hanging on a wall, jokes: «Estimate, now Malevich we will find!». The following page – Malevich, «the Suprematism №65». The original! Eyes are rolled out from orbits. With open mouths we go further. The Italian revival: Rembrandt, jobs of unknown authors … Shishkin, Benua, Ayvazovsky, Repin Cloths, Vasnetsova... Drawings of Shevchenko, posters Majakovsky …

In a following hall we run into a stupor. Picasso, «the Pigeon of the world». That drawing which became an emblem of anti-war movement!

Where we have got?!! It is Paris, museum Orse? No, it is modest gallery of rural teacher Athanasius Lunyova. The hereditary peasant, I think, two things distinguished: an amazing scent on masterpieces and amazing purposefulness. It has started to collect a collection in the fifties when on a post-war Kharkov flea market for copecks of the teacher's salary it was possible to buy simply unique things. The school museum has liked fellows villager, here have started to come from neighbouring villages. Then Lunyov has written to all largest museums of the Union with the request to help rural gallery pictures from store rooms. Also have started to send. Yes such, that the modest teacher has appeared in the centre of attention of world community!

Line from Ili Erenburg's letter: «Excuse, Pablo, but I have presented your jobs to any rural teacher, in its rural gallery. I think, they there it is more necessary. You will understand me».

And a premise of count palace Lunyov has grasped autocratically. Usually the gallery huddled in any barrack. But, when on shootings there has arrived regional TV, pictures for decency have transferred to a palace where the office saharozavoda was based. TV men have left, and Lunyov has refused to release a premise. Not to go into scandal all over the country! By the way, at factory it as managing director any time father Malevich Severin worked, and itself Kazimir went here to school. The factory together with a palace belongs now to a private concern, but owners promise not to move a museum and even have spent restoration.

To depart from a cultural shock is better on the nature. We go in Vladimirovku. So it is called on a map, but, actually, it Natalevka – a manor of one more well-known saharozavodchika Haritonenko. The first Gothic gate at a glade in pine to a pine forest it is passed – they nonfunctional. To turn off it is necessary at the second where there are «Scythian women», any more with its full complement. The first coat leads to Spassky church (1913). Precisely same, only it is more, we saw in Nice. Has created this masterpiece in style of the pskovsko-Novgorod orthodox architecture the academician of architecture SHCHusev who projected the Kazan station in Moscow.

Here we are met by guide-amator Alexander (bodies: (066) 136-5062) which for a symbolical payment leads excursion on the manor rests, including a wing of daughter Haritonenko Natalia. On a question, that here now, answers: «Sanatorium for tuberkulyoznikov». And the truth, we meet people in white dressing gowns. «And where patients?», - asks Ksjuha. «Have recovered, probably», - I unsuccessfully joke. «So I one of them!», - our conductor unperturbably answers. Also advises necessarily to call in in SHarovku where it was treated earlier. I do not know, how the tuberculosis is passed, but faster to retire from this place us, more likely, have forced hordes of mosquitoes.

In SHarovku we and have not got. The hospital smell on an input has beaten off any desire to come inside. But a pseudo-Gothic palace of landowner Keniga (XIX century), I to you will tell, simply grandiose! One "watchtower" is already restored, another in woods. A relief around remarkable, park amazing, lake beautiful. And architecture … From this it is necessary to do Ukrainian language Fontenblo, instead of hospital!

In Old Merchik it is better not to call in at all. Well, it is impossible so with architecture monuments! I understand, that interiors of a palace Shidlovsky (1776-78) suffer from barbarians. But, what for to pawn doors and windows a brick?!

Late already, to spend the night better in Kharkov. As the city is worthy separate excursion. It is a little special olden time, but not it is for nothing in a current 15th years was capital of Ukraine.

The greatest reminds of the capital status of 30th years in Europe the area of Freedom carrying at the Soviet power a name of "Iron Felix» – a companion Dzerzhinsky. From its blessing here have erected grandiose on those times a complex of buildings gosproma – houses of the state industry. The capital of the Soviet Ukraine needed many areas for placing of authorities. gosprom became the high-rise ferro-concrete building first in the country, an original masterpiece of the Soviet constructivism of 20th years. Now the place and to local authorities, both regional TV, and offices of set of private concerns here suffices.

From the area the park zone with chestnut avenues which conducts from a university building to a monument of Shevchenko in an environment of figures of proletariat clearing up to revolutionary actions begins. The astronomical observatory and a zoo nearby has settled down. Harkovchane like to walk here on days off, to their services – cafe, small restaurants, children's attractions.

Along the street University we leave to the Pokrovsk monastery (1689). The most ancient construction of Kharkov is connected with the basis of a city which attribute to the Cossack «name Hariton, and on popular speech Harko». The monastery on a hill was included into system of city strengthenings, the cathedral belltower is very similar to a defensive tower. During last war the temple has been strongly destroyed, but now restored and meets parishioners Jesus Christ established to the 2000 anniversary of Christianity figure.

Two more Kharkov temples surprise with extraordinariness of architecture. The Uspensky cathedral (1771-77), apparently, consists of one only a very tall 90-metre belltower (the highest building in a city). A tower chiming clock does its similar to a town hall, and the arrangement of windows of church gives it a palace kind. Located on opposite coast of small river Lopan the Blagoveshchensk cathedral (1888-1901) from a certain foreshortening seems very high, harmonous and directed in the sky. Its new-Byzantian style amazes with simply surprising beauty when you walk on quay.

XIX century has left after itself set public and residential buildings which form ensemble of the central part of a city. The olden time adjoins to modern constructions, as, for example, the difficult form a film concert hall "Ukraine". Along the street Sumy it is possible to reach a fountain «the Mirror stream» as which consider as the city card, and also pendant rope-way in park Bitter. The huge city boils a life. Here it is a lot of money that is visible by quantity of private cafes and little shops, and also under the prices in hotels. However, both to have supper, and to spend the night it is possible absolutely cheaply.

But if it would be desirable to be pulled out from closeness of a megacity and to spend couple of days on the nature, it is necessary to go in Koropovo (Zmievsky r-n.). Here is both the smart nature, and fishing, both stylish restaurants, and comfortable bases of rest. After an intensive excursion trip such relaks it will be far not the superfluous. It is possible to gain strength easy before returning to Kiev.

Lodgings for the night
If your basic luggage is made by a hard pack of money, carry it in smart chetyryohzvyozdochnyj hotel "Cosmopolit" (street of Academician Proskury, 1; bodies: (057 754-4777). The prices and an accessory to a network «Premier Hotels» guarantee the first class service against $200. Hotel "Kharkov" *** (Freedom square, 7 will seem to much more modest tsentrovaja; bodies: (0572 580-153) to which Intourists prefer, and also all who presumes 540 grn. For the most simple double room. We usually choose hotel "World" *** (Lenin's avenue, 27а; bodies: (057 330-5543). From the centre absolutely nearby, numbers reconstructed, the prices more humane – nearby 210 grn. Since morning here will please very dense breakfast in one of three variants – from "fat" to dietary «a-lja European». And in Koropovo I recommend to pay attention to modern base of rest of "Box" (bodies: (057 477-9133) with summer bungalows and numbers in the wooden hotel case (60-125 grn.). Only to reserve places it is necessary very much in advance as the place uses the big popularity at well-founded harkovchan.

Public catering
Institutions of different level in Kharkov – great variety, for all tastes and a purse. Especially to us restaurant "Метрополь" (street Sumy, 51) with a smart summer platform and fountains was grew fond. Also it is necessary to visit "Gun" (street Pushkin, 31) which is proud of stylish interiors, «medieval small streets» internal court yard and Fusion Food. On quay involves an original institution «Oaks sorcerers» (street Klochkovsky, 3), beating plots of Russian national fairy tales. In farms Korobovyh it is impossible to pass by picturesque «the Drunk hut». And the stop for a dinner on road to Kiev should be made in a roadside complex «At sisters» (Horolsky r-n, with. Lobkovaja the Beam) which marks the 10 anniversary. More tasty and nourishing home cookery any more you will not find anywhere in vicinities! This institution uvesheno photos of celebrities which constantly look here on a borsch and vareniki is not casual.