Our France: from Alsace to Provence

To see Paris and … to live! To whom as, but to us it would not be desirable to die for some reason at all. On the contrary, appear, that one life has not enough. What it is possible to see in Paris for four days? It is possible to bypass all Louvre. Or only to glance in the majority of museums. Or easier to walk on foot on the basic survey tourist routes. Or to like atmosphere of the most well-known cafes and small restaurants. Or easier to do everything, that will climb up in a head and that not diffident city will allow. But how to have time to try all the menu Parisian vkusnostej, not having transformed a pleasant meal in banal nabivanie a belly? A difficult problem. But razreshimaja. It is Enough to listen to a voice not an insatiable gourmet-mind, and captious heart-gurme. As it has appeared, in French "gourmet" means "glutton". And «the judge of kitchen» is "gurme". On such trips sated with impressions there is no other exit how to become the traveller-gurme.

This autoround we with Ksjuhoj looked forward the whole year under impression of the first visit to the Western Europe. The route was born in a head, some times miscalculated on a map and was thought over with guidebooks in hands long before departure: Kiev – Lublin – Vrotslav – Nuremberg – Strasbourg – Paris – the Anatto tree – Dijon – Lyons – Marseilles – Menton – Salzburg – Uzhgorod – Kiev. Necessarily it would be desirable to visit Versailles, the most well-known locks of a valley of Loire, Mont Blanc, the Roman cities of the Mediterranean coast and the Verona missed during last trip. The trip was planned traditionally for August, but the life has introduced the corrective amendments, and in the end of June I have unexpectedly appeared in the face of inevitable holiday. It have "meanly transferred for July. Terms should be modified. Total, travel should take place from July, 1 till July, 22nd. To time for preparation remains just barely enough.

It is time in a way-road …

First of all – visas. Experience already is, last year the agency specialising on trailering which job we remained was engaged in this question are quite happy. This time all was not so. After a long correspondence we have appeared before severe constraints from their party: hotels should be reserved and preliminary paid for all route, any "windows", a choice in each point only from the poor list of hotels given by them. Within 100 euros offer all on one-two hotel, it is far from the centre (the others more expensively) more often. Negotiations were at a deadlock.

Fortunately, in the French embassy our acquaintance who undertook works to help. All appears very simply. From us demand bron only from ONE point in France where we plan to be longest. To pay not necessarily! It is necessary only fax acknowledgement (it is desirable that it was produblirovan on an embassy fax). The choice has fallen to Paris, hotel "Ibis" on Bastile square, practically in the centre. After sozvona, the fax with the request there has been sent to reserve a double room for 5 days on my name which has returned back with a mark about acknowledgement and reservation number. Basically, it was enough, but we, just in case, have reserved some more hotels on a route.

In Europe (especially in France) it is the most convenient to use network Accor which includes network hotels of different levels of service. There are they practically in each city. To choose it is possible on any purse and under any inquiries: Formula-1 (25-30 Eur), Etap (30-50 Eur), Ibis (50-80 Eur), Merquree (80-130 Eur), Novotel (150-200 Eur), Sofitel (200-400 Eur), etc. Almost at all is own parkings, all give a breakfast (for dop. A payment). We have stopped on "Ibis" **. Numbers, of course, small, but absolutely necessary: a bathroom, the conditioner, the TV, daily change of linen and towels. Most interestingly each time absolutely precisely nobility where you will arrive. Rooms so identical, that you come, as though to yourself home. To choose tried whenever possible poblizhe to the centre if there were variants. An exception became only Menton where we have decided to fork up on big number with a balcony and a view of the sea. After all there it was necessary to spend on rest of 6 days, it would be desirable comfort. "Ibis" here obviously did not approach. Under the description and the prices "Paris-Rome" *** in which, besides, it has appeared russkogovorjashchaja administratorsha has approached. Hotels have decided not to reserve and understand other countries on a course.

In the course of reservation often ask to inform number of a credit card with date validnosti on which then the necessary sum is blocked. It will be considered in a consequence at final settlement (be not mistaken, pay off the SAME card!) and if you and do not use hotel services, the bank will automatically unblock it in a month. Sometimes it is possible to manage and without a card, having agreed about an exchange of faxes or even simply orally, but it is very rare. Well, and at booking through the Internet (the most simple and convenient way) credit card presence simply necessarily. Listings with reservation Internet acknowledgement in embassy also pass.

The full list necessary for reception of the visa of documents can be looked on a site of Embassy of France. The form of the questionnaire with which it is possible to download, unpack and fill, including in Russian or an Ukrainian language languages in the same place hangs.

And here, after several painful days of expectation, the visa are received! It is necessary to collect things only. We have paid to this process special attention. The big suitcase with things not on every day which should travel, mainly, in a luggage carrier. The small suitcase is less with marching chajnichkom, utjuzhkom, the hair dryer, subjects of personal hygiene, a reserve stock of tea/coffee/sugar/glasses. He is more convenient for dragging on hotels, shifting there, on a course, necessary things. A compact bag with replaceable footwear. A capacious wardrobe trunk for a nout-beech where, except svezhekuplennogo the small computer, disks with films for filling of boring evenings have laid down also, dop. Columns, maps and guidebooks. Copies of all documents have been just in case prepared. The big question has arisen on cigarettes which in Europe stand 4-5 Eur for a pack. Have decided not to test vigilance of the Polish customs officers and were limited to the maximum quantity resolved to transportation – on the block on the person, plus a small amount of "illicit" packs in bulk among things. Not superfluous, in a consequence, it has appeared to have with itself and to steam of small bottles-flasks of good cognac. The automobile euro-first-aid set is bought, filled up personal, the mobile phone "is loaded" by the large sum. The car has the day before passed next THAT added with change of rubber. It is possible to leave!

The order is given it on the West …
(Kiev-JAgodin-Ljublin-Oposhnja-Opole-CHenstohova-Vrotslav)

Full forward! That the sun has come in the east! To begin travel always it is easy. However, road to equal already fairly podnadoela. But precisely you know, where it is better to make a halt, is tasty to have a bite or a drink good coffee, to refuel normal gasoline.

To Ljubomlja have reached by 17 o'clock. Have there and then found out very decent hotel complex «Euro» (bodies: (03377) 24-904; 100 grn. For double) with a car wash on which have left the car in a society of the skilled washerman, having sat down in cafe to fill up forces before border. Nearby and refuelling WOG with decent benzinchikom.

Frontier transition "JAgodin" has on Friday evening pleased with small turn. However, our frontier guard with any very big suspicion has concerned person Xenia, long comparing her face with a photo, looking through, examining and almost not trying on a tooth its passport. Poles, on the contrary, have appeared marvellously are loyal. Even in a luggage carrier have not glanced, having limited to a standard question on quantity of cigarettes and alcohol. We have answered "almost fairly". :) Less than in an hour, were already on that party of border.

The first, that you feel, driving to Poland – sensation of comfort on roads. On the European concepts they mediocre enough, but, after the Ukrainian shaking, you drive as to butter. The suspension bracket stops. Rustling of tyres and silent rumbling of the engine is audible only. It is a lot of the settlements, different restrictions, sites with repairs and kolejnostju, but from quiet driving you receive only silent pleasure. It is possible to concentrate only on movement and a review of vicinities. For example, on a very tall defensive tower of XIII century which hangs directly over road in Stolpie at once for Helmom.

For the inquiry if who does not know. Standard restrictions: 60 km/h in settlements on a white background (50 during dark time of days), 90 on usual roads, 110 on chetyryohpolosnyh, 130 on avtobanah. In the winter – it is obligatory with a passing light. On two-way roads with a wide roadside and a faltering lateral line it is accepted to concede overtaking congress to the right, for what (already only sometimes) thank avarijkoj. In Poland as, however, and everywhere in Europe I try to observe a high-speed mode, exceeding a maximum on 5-10 km/h. So "approximately" there go, basically, only correct Polish grandfathers on old "Fiatah", but in their company I do not feel discomfort. Police to meet always I will be in time, and more to hurry there is no place. But as pleases the onboard computer, joyfully showing close to ideal the fuel expense – is less than 6 litres on 100 km!

In Lublin it is possible to orient easily thanks to that hotel Campanile chosen in advance *** (it is one of brands of one more French hotel network Louvre Hotels) is very successfully located – near to the basic line (it even it is visible from road) and all 15 minutes on foot from historical city centre. Boleslav Hrabrogo's allocated in XIX century with lines of a neogothic style the ancient castle there dominates. On its main facade as anywhere it is clear, that the gothic style is a product of synthesis of east and western architecture. But especially the medieval part of the Old city with painted small houses where it would be desirable to fall on a terrace of one of set of cafe fascinates and to admire ancient frescos, slowly sipping "ZHivets" under traditional bigos. A city not too tourist, but on the eve of days off the youth registered in local universities tusuetsja late. We will note – excellent alternative to Krakow of a short-term trip to Poland on target. Only 10 hours of road!

In the morning the hotel has pleased with a plentiful breakfast with several kinds hot, than have used under the full program not to spend then time for a high-grade dinner. After all today it is necessary the big moving! 600 km across Poland are very much, considering restrictions on speed.

On a way to Radom have curtailed in Kazimezh-Dolnyj. In 15 km from a line, among low mountains, on the bank of Vistula ancient, small and very picturesque climatic resort was stretched. A place at Poles popular enough, cars on Saturday nemerjano. From here and traditional kazimezhsky business – delivery of private court yard under paid parkings (3 Zl at an o'clock). The centre and dazzles with dark blue signs "R". The market area surrounded with the Renaissance small houses, is blocked by the gipsies importunately sticking to tourists with a guessing on maps. They occupy one of sights – an ancient well in the middle of the area. Eh, to Truskavets the same picturesque historical centre …

Through Radom we reach to Oposhno. This small town of impression has not made. Great it is enough to look at a tower of the lock of times Kazimira by the way directly from a line, passing through the centre.

In Petrkov Tribunalsky have not turned at all. Have decided to go directly in CHenstohovu, whose name recently on hearing in Ukraine thanks to fair competitive struggle of Donetsk boys against sharks of the western capitalism for local metallurgical the giant. And all Catholic world knows CHenstohovu thanking «the Black Madonna», presented in 1382 the Prince Opolsky to a monastery on the Clear mountain. The monastery with a very tall spike of a church makes indelible impression. The wonder-working icon is in a chapel in which the large quantity of pilgrims and tourists invariably crowds. There and then and material evidences chudotvornosti – walls are covered by crutches recovered from a touch to the sacred. The adjoining territory is huge, the parking amazes with the sizes. It is easy to present, that here it is created for the big holidays. We leave under blessing gesture of a stone figure of John Paul II.

Last intermediate point became Opole. Here it would be possible to remain for a quiet supper and spending the night if have not decided to reach necessarily this day to Vrotslava. And so had time to be run only by a foot part and to compare the Town hall building on the market area to Florentine Palace Vekkio. Outlines, basically, are similar, but nevertheless it not Florence.

In Vrotslave were at 9 o'clock in the evening. But to reach the centre it has appeared not simply – in the main streets with might and main there was repair work. The map has not helped even in advance raspechatannaja from the Internet – to find road to the planned hotel «Hotel Monopol» ** in an ancient building (more atmosphere, than comfort as it is told in the guidebook) in the centre it was not possible. On eyes has got only chetyryohzvyozdochnyj «Orbis Wroclaw» ****. It something of type of former Polish "Intourist", podmarafechennogo according to formal requirements of Europe, but saved distinct spirit sovkovosti. But it is close from the centre and it is direct on a line on which we have arrived – to find very easily.

The car is parked on a many-tier parking nearby, we go to walk on an evening city. The Town hall has most of all amazed. It is the whole tiny city in a city! Quarter of buildings in the middle of the area all is cut up by perpendicular small streets in which the cafe and little shops hide. Simply smart Gothic portal with hours. From the same party – an input in «the Svidnitsky cellar», the most well-known vrotslavskuju beer XIV century Excursion on local pivnitsam is in general the separate program on which we, unfortunately, did not have time. As to find an empty seat on Saturday evening it is completely not simple. It is necessary after all to reach islands on Odra where picturesque temples are restricted some: the Church of Maiden Maria-ON-sand, the Church of the Sacred Cross and a very tall Cathedral. And still to be developed on quay and small streets of the Old city. Wandered to two o'clock in the morning …

If with the friend left in a way …
(Nuremberg – Baden-Baden)

Since morning cheerfully we move on "temporarily free" avtobanu in a direction to German border. To refuel better on this party, here gasoline is hardly cheaper (4,20 Zl = 1,03 Eur). The present European prices Further will begin. In all Western Europe gasoline costs approximately equally: 1,15-1,30 Eur. Though, every year all is more expensive. Process of refuelling differs from habitual to us a little. If nearby is not present zapravshchika which for pair euro of tip all will make itself and even pomoet a windshield, it is necessary to approach, insert a pistol into a tank, to fill in so much, how much it is necessary for you, to put a pistol into place, and only then, having remembered column number to go on cash desk to pay off. Credit cards accept everywhere. The main rule – to refuel, whenever possible, not on avtobanah, and on suburbs of the big cities or on free roads – to 10 % of economy. Though, visiting avtobannyh refuellings with complexes of road service – same the whole ritual! But it will be later …

While have reached border in r-not Gyorlitsa. Usual business – set of terminals, to everyone decent enough turn, but dvizhutsja all is very quick. However, we of respectable citizens of the European Union a little podzaderzhali. Smiling pogranichnitsa has in detail found out where and what for we go, whether is at us bron on hotel, and, having taken away a copy (necessarily carry with itself reservation acknowledgement!), and also other documents, has left to check our honesty. Has done without problems. In some minutes we already in German to an autobath.

Only in Germany it is possible to comprehend true sacral sense of a traffic sign «the End of all restrictions». For this country manufacturers superkarov limit the maximum speed of "rockets" by means of electronics on a mark of 250 km/h. Especially grasps spirit from prosvistyvajushchih by and motorcyclists instantly carried away afar. In general, paradise for "letunov". But such, marvellously, it is not a lot of. The majority adheres to a recommended mode «130», the others go under 150-160. And we with them. Actually, strongly to be dispersed very difficultly even in the most left strip on tryohpoloske. Will not pass also minutes as somebody from "not hurrying" will necessarily get out before you to overtake any waggon which has appeared on an average strip. So "pilots" on "bolidah" move, basically, jerks, continually catching up with someone behind and nervously asking to concede left povorotnikom.

In general, German avtobany have seemed not the best on quality in Europe (the best – in Italy). But there is at them a number of conclusive advantages: it is a lot of sites on three (and even four) a strip in each direction, a dense network on all country and, the main thing, full and absolute besplatnost! In other countries the payment for avtobany makes a considerable part of the budget of a trip. There is no need to say, that all in the uttermost order with a marking, indexes, preventions of stoppers (in two such for all trip it was necessary to stand) and other road infrastructure. To it we already got used. And here to see a temporary sign "Failure (!)" For some kilometres from a scene was in wonder. Well, and one of the main things avtobannyh pleasures – visiting of complexes of road service. These are the whole small towns with a full infrastructure, beginning from refuellings and finishing motels. Periodically to turn off there it is necessary to wash at least a windshield from a midge (buckets with brushes are applied on filling stations), and for one and kofejku to drink, or even to have dinner. And high-grade automatic car washes meet on suburbs of cities is more often. With the request about «car wash» it is necessary to address to the cashier, and he will already explain what to do - will give out counters or number of a code which will need to be entered into the automatic machine. The detailed instruction in katrinkah, that in what sequence to do, will not allow to get confused. Procedure costs 6-8 Eur and occupies a maximum of 10 minutes

Even I am silent about usual zones of rest with toilets, in which all on photo cells. On such parking, in 30 km from Nuremberg, have agreed to meet Eugene N-TP, the colleague from a forum of autotravellers of club AutoUA. It with enthusiasm was called to show us a city in which lives three years, and even has invited to itself to spending the night (the family has just left to Kiev), for what we were very grateful.

This Bavarian city associating at us earlier it is exclusive with process over military criminals, has made strange impression. Everything, like, on a place: lock Kajzerburg on a grief (XI century) The medieval centre with fahverkovymi small houses, a Gothic cathedral, bridges over small rivers and channels. But everywhere any absolutely unusual architectural, sculptural and simply cultural nuances. Very tall kolona «the Perfect fountain» on the Main market area, for example, actually is a Gothic spike which could not put on one of churches (a gold ring on a lattice it is necessary to twist, having thought of desire). A monument «western vizantijshchine» – «the Bridge of the executioner» on which in the Middle Ages deduced the city walls sentenced for limits as in a city the death penalty has been forbidden. A mad modern fountain «the Marriage roundabout» on a theme of sweets and sorrows of home life, the same madman «Rabbit Djurera» – a parody to the well-known engravings of the father of the German Renaissance. Albrecht Djurera's house – the main museum sight of a city. And a justice Palace in which there passed the Nuremberg process, we for some reason at all do not send to search.

Evening has been simply obliged to end with the Bavarian sausages with tushyonnoj cabbage under the best German beer. But, as to spite, the ethnic cuisine small restaurant in which we it went, has appeared is closed. Time was later, to come back in the centre it would not be desirable, therefore it was necessary to be satisfied with the turned up Greek restaurant. To eat even three together one dish «a-lja the master» it is almost impossible …

In general, to communicate to the compatriot long enough living abroad always it is interesting – a lot of informative it was possible to hear. For example, about hvalyonnoj a German pedantry and the accuracy erected in a cult even at household level. That stand only 5 (five!) various containers for different type of dust. Try to throw out only, for example, a cigarette pack «in gathering», not having separated a plastic foil and a foil from a paper. Ashmen will put forward claims to the whole house! Similar displays of German "order" meet everywhere. It is possible to argue on advantages, lacks and "excesses", but with our mentality to survive there uneasy. Here Frenchmen – an another matter, the careless nation! Let alone «almost ours» on spirit Italians …

Next morning it is necessary to refuel only and doukomplektovatsja. In particular, in France, at movement on avtobanam, now it is necessary to have at itself svetootrazhajushchy a waistcoat on a case of the compelled stop. Besides, having last year's experience rozetochnyh tortures, this time have decided to be reserved by adapters. For this purpose it was necessary to call in in a household shop. Though, in Hungary, for example, near to the Austrian border and vests and sets perehodnichkov are on sale directly on refuellings.

We are excused with good-natured N-TP, and in a way! A direction to Strasbourg, France. Stops on road to do did not plan … yet have not seen congress from a line with the index «Baden-Baden, 10 km». Well, unless it is possible to drive by!?

Unexpectedly flown wind with a rain could not impair a little impression of the oldest bohemian European resort even. Hiding from a bad weather in usual, at first sight, cafe, we start to examine photos on walls. Also we understand suddenly, that on these here chairs to us such quantity of celebrities sat, that simply eyes run up! Beginning from Charli Chaplin and finishing Pierre Risharom. More shortly, Bohemianism atmosphere – the main sight of this European Truskavets. And so – bjuvety, pools, terms, restaurants, the casinos expensive and prestigious hotels. But is also quite accessible, two-stars, from 50 Eur for the double. If it is not expensive also visas, Truskavets would have a rest …

In the French party, on another's planet …
(Strasbourg-Mets-Rejms)

The German-French border is noted by the small tablet “France” with evrosojuzovskimi asterisks. It is possible not to brake at all. Though, the complex of customs constructions is saved and even, from time to time, is used for the designated purpose when one of the parties temporarily enters passport control (in SHengene such too happens – on a court yard war with terrorism).

avtoban «without restrictions» French avtorut comes to an end, begins. Almost the same, but hardly worse quality, with restriction 130 and for money. And, money considerable – hardly more than ten eurocents for kilometre, 11 Eur for 100 km of road. The Italian motorways, by the way, exactly twice are cheaper, and a covering – the best in Europe as it seemed to me.

Once again in detail about payment system. It in France and in Italy practically identical. In most cases, it is necessary to pay the passed kilometric area for tickets. In the beginning of a line you get on the terminal and choose a corridor with a green burning arrow. But only not over what it is written «Telepass» is for those who uses the automated system of payment on credit. Having stopped before a barrier, wait, when the ticket (it can stick out and at once, and occasionally it is necessary to demand it pressing of the big green button) will jump out of an automatic machine crack. As soon as you take a ticket, the barrier will automatically rise – it is possible to go. At congress with avtobana you get on other terminal. Here too there are corridors for «Telepassa», and also for payment by credit cards or cash. Sometimes the combined. All is designated by very intelligible pictogrammes. If dare to use a credit card, put a ticket in an automatic machine crack (on a board the sum), a card – in other crack is highlighted, and in a second the automatic machine returns it. By the way, speed of this operation pushes on thought, that the balance on a card does not check the automatic machine – interested persons can save to try to swindle, having palmed off an empty card. At payment by cash approach on a box with the cashier and give it the ticket. On a board again taki the sum is highlighted, pay off, the barrier will rise. Usually we tried to enjoy advantages always of dialogue with the live person once again not to endanger a card to be gobbled up by the automatic machine.

Sometimes, it is especially frequent in the south of France, for journey on some sites the fixed payment is raised. Tickets on entrance do not give out, and the advance payment sum is highlighted at once. Again taki to pay it is possible a credit card for the automatic machine, cash to the cashier, and sometimes – simply to throw the necessary sum coins in a special basket. Some automatic machines accept also banknotes, all give delivery. To understand pictogrammes not difficult, but, for calmness, it is better to address nevertheless to the traditional cashier.

For journey to Strasbourg to pay it is not necessary – it practically on border. Hotel Ibis Strasbourg Centre Ponts Couverts reserved in advance have found almost at once, the map of the city was with itself. A successful arrangement have estimated, leaving on walk. On ancient defensive dam Vobona from which roof the excellent kind on channels opens, watchtowers and a majestic cathedral, through small river Or at once we get to Small France. It, probably, the most picturesque area of the old city which entirely have been built up fahverkovymi with small houses (so architectural style when a basis of walls is the skeleton from crossing wooden beams is called). Once tanners here lived, and now over channels and sluices basically tourists crowd.

The basic sights are concentrated to area Katedral. First of all, a one-tower cathedral I Notr-will give. A unique Gothic tower on which means have sufficed, 40 years built. And since 1439, throughout four centuries, it remained the highest in the Christian world – 142 m. To the very top it is impossible to get, unfortunately, – only on gallery of the western facade. And inside it is necessary to come at least for the sake of an astronomical clock which till now everyone a quarter of hour show representation of mechanical figures, and at 12.30 – the whole parade of apostles. Opposite to a cathedral – the oldest in Europe a drugstore «At a deer» with a column - "bjushmesserom" (a measuring instrument of a thickness of a stomach of workers-masons which supposed to building of a Gothic cathedral spike). The basic museums – in next lock Roanov.

Us water walk on the rivers and channels more interested. Open boats go hourly from a mooring at leaving on Or a facade of palace Roanov (6,80 Eur, there is Russian audioguide). On water most easier to get by the European quarter which is an administrative centre of Incorporated Europe. Ultramodern buildings of the Palace of Europe, EuroParliament and the European court under human rights are more tremendous euroofficials in identical suits – with motley crowd of fussy tourists on small streets and the areas contrast with a medieval city, and hurrying on affairs through the bridge-transition.

Half-day to all Strasbourg is very little. Since morning still we will return, for now – to study Alsace kitchen. Certainly, there are cult gastronomic places: Buerjerstuewel, Maison Kammerzell, Le Clou, Le Pont Corbeau. But to get there happens uneasy in the evening. Having convinced of it, we have begun to look simply in taverns all successively and vinshtuby, estimating interiors and fluently looking through the menu, have not stopped yet on small and cosy family small restaurant in one of lateral streets. Here there was everything, that it is necessary for us: stewed cabbage with meat on-elzasski (Choucroute a l'Alsacienne), an onions pie (Flamiche a la picardie) and even salad with a goose liver (Foie gras). By the way, the well-known French delicacy fua-gra, representing a crude liver it is artificial the overfed geese, have invented in Alsace. Well, and, certainly, magnificent Alsace white wine.

Our confident choice was estimated by the waitress, appeared student Alina from Moldova which is earning additionally at restaurant during time, free from economy studying at local university. She in us has learnt ex-compatriots, only when we have started to communicate among themselves in Russian. Even was surprised first, yet have not explained, that we not Russian, and Ukrainians. As it was expressed, Russian at once it is visible – they are always dissatisfied with all. We here have appeared are as a result very happy, not having forgotten to encourage Alina for good service over the bill.

Since morning – short visit to the centre behind souvenirs, and we again in road. To Paris about 500 km, no more than 5 hours on avtorutam. Quite we have time to call in on road to pair interesting cities: Metz and Rheims.

Technology of visiting of cities in transit the such. In advance we find out under the guidebook the basic sights. We follow all time under brown indexes on the centre and covered parkings. Usually in each city there is at least one multilevel parking somewhere near the main sight (in this case, near cathedrals) which is called accordingly. Sometimes even there are electronic boards the list of parkings opposite to which names green figures of quantity of empty seats burn. On entrance to a parking – a barrier and the automatic machine. It is necessary to press the button and to take a ticket. The barrier opens, it is possible to go under indexes on empty seat searches. Usually, if the next level is completely hammered, over entrance the red lantern burns. As soon as the place is released, lights up green – full electronics. Parkovochnyj the coupon needs to be taken away with itself. After returning, on an input in a parking, it should be paid in the automatic machine. Often the automatic machine accepts only coins, and against the Ukrainian credit cards is prejudiced, so it is necessary to have for emergency more trifles. Cost everywhere on the average identical – from 1 Eur at an o'clock to 15 Eur for days. But there are difficult enough systems pochasovki when, for example, it is favourable to stay no more than 2 hours, differently it is necessary to pay at once for 5. We usually did not understand it at all. Street parkings practically did not use. First, all is equal in the centre all of them paid, and is not much cheaper than the underground. Secondly, in payment system happens difficultly enough to understand (podi understand, that at them there on tablets under signs "R" it is written). And thirdly … the machine it is a pity. Parking on-parizhski in France met practically everywhere. But about it later …

So, Metz and Rheims. Both are known for the Gothic cathedrals. Saint-Etienne in Metz, for example, is very ornated by stained-glass windows, for what it name «the Fixture of the God». There are among them the stained-glass windows which have saved since XIII century, but the most well-known – modern, Mark Shagala's creations. On their style it is very easy to distinguish from the medieval. Well, and rejmsky I Notr-will give, along with Parisian and shartrskim, it is considered in general one of the best samples of the French gothic style. Here, since V century, all French kings were crowned almost. In particular, here Jeanne d'ark almost force has dragged on crowning КарлаVII, that as a result meant restoration of the French statehood and has presaged the termination of Centenary war. Certainly, the monument to the Orleansky maiden takes a worthy place before the main facade of a cathedral. From this place Jeanne with we throw and in an armour we met everywhere.

So we also have reached Paris. On an entrance to a city the transport stream is gradually condensed, turning to a toffee. For journey on a city have spent 40 minutes a city Detailed plan has been laid up in advance so to orient it is possible. From the Bastile area we dive into one of lateral small streets, and before us required hotel Ibis Bastille Opera. On resepshene arises easy neponjatka. Our non-standard bron in the form of a fax calls the manager easy confusion. We even have become agitated. But, having talked over with the manager, the manager at last hands over us a key-card. Asks a credit card «for guarantee» on which the necessary sum on what the bank informs SMS th of Kiev is blocked. Theoretically, at final settlement this sum will be removed from the bill with the payment account for dop. Services (in a bar, for example, it is not necessary to pay in cash – simply inform room number, and to you finish on the bill). Here some ambushes are covered. For example, in the end can remove a total amount, and that, that has been blocked in the beginning, for some reason will not be unblocked. Certainly, in Kiev this problem dares in bank very simply, but money is necessary now. Once lohonulsja I when at calculation has casually given other card. So, if the hotel has not been reserved by a card in advance, it is better to demand full calculation at once at settlement, as though they did not resist to it. So is quieter.

So, the car was arranged in underground garage, things have removed to number, we leave on the first walk. Behind shoulders of 2730 km. The first big stage of travel has come to an end.

17th quarter, Paris. Hardly the umbrella … shudders
(Paris)

Four full days in Paris (five spending the night) have seemed that minimum which hardly suffices on the most fluent acquaintance to the City. I think, this one of few places on the Earth which never will seem much and where always can be found something new.

Cathedral of the Parisian Mother of god. With it have begun a campaign on a city, to it came back many times subsequently. It is grandiose and magnificent both outside, and inside. But if under the arches to get easy, for lifting on the top survey platform (7 Eur) it is necessary to stand long turn. At us this lifting has turned to the present feat. It was very cold, barrels a penetrating wind with a small and prickly rain, and all of us stood and stood, shivering, in turn. And, having risen, have understood what to take pleasure in kinds all the same it will not turn out – above the wind with a rain blew off from a platform and simply force exhausted somewhere for walls and under a roof. For conscience clearing has made only one picture. But to re-read Hugo before a trip it has appeared very opportunely – the building has appeared any native and familiar up to last gorguli. Here on this gallery the humpback ran, reflecting attacks of army of beggars, somewhere here he hid Esmeraldu, whether instead of behind this window there was a cell of father Frolo? And the singer the Notr-lady helps to experience a aesthetics of a gothic style much better.

It is necessary to go to the Louvre on all the day (8,50 Eur), and that fluently to examine only the most interesting – no more thirds of exposition. To come for some time before opening there is a sense if to appear in turn at a front entrance (the big pyramid) the first and headlong to fly under indexes to "Dzhokonde" – there is a chance to avoid huge crowd to the people, aspiring to photograph Da Vinci the most well-known creation. Otherwise to a picture it is possible not to make the way simply. Other masterpieces of the Louvre are more accessible. But so it is a lot of them … By a dinner we simply were ready to drop. It is good, that inside there is a small restaurant where it is possible to have a bite and drink coffee rather cheaply. Behind the next little table the American pair behind the sendvichami marked the visited halls on the museum plan. No, thought to bypass all for one day it is necessary to leave. And what sense to move on galleries run?

For all the day it is possible to go easy to Montmartre. From metro station Abbesses on a hill it is the most convenient to rise on a cable car. The panorama from a viewing platform of church Sakre-Kyor is considered one of the most beautiful in a city. Quarters of artists – one of the most picturesque places of Paris, as on me nearby are located. The main thing to beat off from the street caricaturists importunately offering the services. It is possible to wander easy among pictures and people, their creating further, to ask the price of souvenirs and knickknacks in uncountable little shops, to sit behind a street little table of cafe where all chairs as it is necessary, are placed so that to visitors it was convenient to stare at passers-by. Here is most easier to find traditional onions soup (Soupe a l’Oignon), snails in butter with garlic (Escargot a la Bourguignonne) and meat on-burgundski (Boeuf Borguignon) under classical slaboalkogolnyj sidr. Even fault on Montmartre the, from the grapes grown up on the same hill.

And at bottom other life boils. Area Pigal and parkway Klishi are completely hammered by sex shops, XXX-cinemas and institutions from show for adults. All flickers red fires and neon signboards. Everywhere too it is a lot of tourists, including with children. Has a little disappointed with modesty of an exposition (in sense, poverty, instead of insufficient frankness) a sensuality Museum – we waited for something bolshego … And from a planned campaign in «Mulen Ruzh», reluctantly, have refused, having studied prices. The supper for two to us would manage in 280-340 Eur, and show viewing in a bar with a champagne bottle – in 150 Eur. We will spend this money with bolshej advantage.

In general, routes developed spontaneously. We have visited on the Triumphal arch and have admired from it kinds of the Champs Elysée, and also futuristic new buildings of area Defans. Have taken a walk on the Palace of invalids where Napoleon's ashes are based, and Marsovomu to a field, the classical kind on Ejfelevu a tower whence opens. Have bypassed Latin quarter with the Pantheon and Sorbonnoj, teeming with ethnic small restaurants. Have estimated a flight of fancy of the architects who have created the Center of George Pompidou, the Forum and the Opera the Bastile. Were amazed luxury of shopping centres «Gallery Lafayette» and «Karuzel dju the Louvre». Have driven after Hay on a walking boat and have passed on its coast on foot. And even have gone down in the Parisian foul place – a museum of water drains.

It is very interesting to use as one of guidebooks to Paris «Da Vinci Code». Many things get at once other sense. For example, on pyramids under an arch "Karuzel" under which Den Brown has placed the Precept Ark, you look already as "devoted". Or gnomon and a copper strip of a line of the Rose in church Sen-Sjulpis it is not so simple stone stela, the device for definition of a spring equinox, and a hiding place in which monk Sajls searched for the Corner stone (even plates at the basis are really cracked). Special value many other things get subjects and symbols to which differently simply would not pay attention. It is a pity, that to a trip to Rome has not had time to read «Angela and demons» the same Dena Brown – art value minimum, but the guidebook good.

Last evening we have risen on Ejfelevu a tower (7,50 Eur on the second level). Contrary to guidebook promises, the evening turn to cash desks, as well as day, too has appeared very impressive – have defended 40 minutes But sense to choose for lifting evening time nevertheless was. Exactly at 22.00 daily on a tower light show begins: it lights up with thousand flashes, and the sky cuts a light beam. From the earth looks is more tremendous, however above it is perfect other sensation. And the decline from this height looks especially romantically. Only on the top have not gone – it should to defend one more long turn.

Such percent russkogovorjashchih tourists as on a tower, any more did not meet anywhere. There was an impression, that to Paris from our corners of the world go rising on the second level and to call therefrom on mobilke home. In general party the most multinational: thick Americans, fussy Japanese, loud Italians, impressive Germans, self-confident Russian … All are easy for distinguishing on appearance and style of behaviour even if not to listen to conversation. And here it is not enough Frenchmen as anywhere. They disdain the main Parisian sight, whether that?

To move across Paris it is the most convenient on foot or by the underground. The underground station can be found literally at every turn but only if casually to come across – too imperceptible inputs at them. Journey costs 1,40 Eurо with any quantity of changes. It is favourable to buy "karne" (carnet) – 10 single tickets by the gross for 10,70 Eur. At us such pack easily dispersed for days-two. There is a system of travel cards and the privilege tickets giving also the discounts for some museums, but we to understand did not become. It is necessary to get used to system of changes a little when suddenly you understand, that it is ingeniously simple. Each line has own number and colour, and the direction is defined by sequence of terminal stations (i.e., «Porte Dauphine» - «Nation» is from the West on the east, and «Nation» - «Porte Dauphine» is from the east on the West). The underground network covers all city. On distant suburbs (for example, to Versailles or the Disneyland) it is convenient to reach on RER – the high-speed electric trains integrated into underground. We and have not used this type of transport. The first line of the underground with trains on rubber (!) most of all was pleasant to a course to reduce vibrations in a zone of monuments of architecture. And still the place of a disposition of our hotel was such successful, that the big necessity to use public transport was not constant. In well evening easy to come back on foot …

In hotel vicinities there were many pleasant cafes and brassery. For example, has very much liked not tourist atmosfernostju «Victоr Hugo» near to Hugo house-museum where zaparennyj and all the forgetting waiter is perceived as a part of local colour. A rating of institutions I will not make at all – them too much. Often we reserved simply big cheese plate (Plateau de fromage) with a wine bottle. At last I rasproboval up to the end juicy taste of the French cheeses with a mould which once simply did not transfer on a scent. And we spent tasting of amazing pates in number when was laziness to sit in cafe.

By the way, hanging once in the evening behind a little table at a show-window with a kind on street, observed shaking, but quite typical picture under the name «the Parking on-parizhski». Directly on the contrary stood at brovki not new "Nissan-Mikra". Stood for a long time already and, possibly, for a long time. Parkovochnye places before and behind it were periodically released, but longer minutes free did not remain – there and then somebody squeezed. And so, they do it just as we, but with small feature. Having turned out a wheel at first to the right, and then to the left, slowly hand over back, yet will not rest against a bumper standing behind the car. Having convinced on a sound and sensations what further to go it is impossible, turn out a wheel and move forward while again taki will not rest a bumper already in vperedistojashchego. So on the sly also get. Poor "Mikra" only also did, that it was shaken from pushes from different directions. And nobody is excited with the peeled paint and rumpled numbers. It is normal! To find in Paris the car without a uniform scratch it is practically impossible. Therefore they never use alarm systems, and the insurance companies at all do not insure against such damages. Deterioration of a bumper is at them natural process. To anybody after all will not come in a head, for example, to insure wheels or brake kolodki against deterioration while in service. It is good, that our car has gone through Paris in garage, and that the alarm system simply would not be switched off.

And all four days have flown by. It is time to act in film from a familiar spot.

All can kings …
(Versal-Orlean-Tur-SHenonso-Ambuaz-Blua-SHambor)

We are put forward in a direction of a valley of Loire on excursion on locks and palaces. The map in this place simply dazzles with sights. We select only the most interesting: SHambor, Ambuaz, SHenonso, Blua and some other.

To begin with zarulivaem to Versailles. The first impression – Peterhof more abruptly! Having compared then once again, we will understand, what's the matter. Petrodvorets is grandiose only in a complex with park and fountains, especially if to rise to it from gulf of Finland. Versailles is magnificent, actually, as a palace – a French symbol absoljutizma. Its park skuchnovat, and fountains – a poor excuse Peterhof. By the way, switch on them only on revivals for a short while in the morning and in the afternoon, moreover raise for it doubtfully "show" an additional payment (6 Eur). And here the system of visiting is much more rational, than in Peter. There are some cash desks selling tickets for different excursion routes on a palace (12 Eur) which are crossed on the most interesting expositions. Accordingly, not one big turn for everything, and, at least, three small. For excursion groups – separate cash desk. In general, half an hour, and we already walk on royal apartments. The luxury of personal rooms of Louis XIV seems inconceivable. The mirror gallery in which the Versailles world has been signed, amazes with the sizes, but the King-sun on 17 huge mirrors contemporaries – mirrors could estimate riches of a court yard only then were extremely expensive, and here also such enormous! Big and Small Trianon, after walk and a dinner in royal gardens, have seemed already superfluous.

We go to an Anatto tree, the first city on Loire on our route. The lock, the truth, here is not present. But the city name is strongly connected with one of the most known historic figures of France – Jeanne d'ark. Here it has spent 10 days while the inspired defenders of a city have not raised a siege of Englishmen that became the first victory of the Frenchmen which have led as a result to the termination of Centenary war. One of sights is Jeanne's House, but it not present. It have recreated already after the Second World when the original small house has been completely destroyed. The most known monument to the Orleansky maiden stands nearby, on square Martrua. As well as in the majority of other cases, Jeanne here looks at all so aggressively as has represented its Hatch Besson. There is a little more nonconventional cathedral Sent-Krua, a town hall and a couple of interesting private residences. Actually, all. Preliminary in the Anatto tree we planned to stay the night, but time still was not later, and the city has seemed too boring.

Strategic base for the further conquest of Loire castles have chosen Round, the former capital «the spiteful king» Louis XI. Autorout has shown presence in the central part of a city of liked "Ibis". It is convenient to have all the same in the car a nout-beech with electronic maps. Still to join satellite navigation … It so, lyrical digression.

We have lodged near to station and have gone to study a city. The lock here is, but any unpresentable. At all does not impress. There is also a Gothic cathedral, some museums. But most interestingly Old city with a labyrinth of small streets and area Pljumero which has been built up fahverkovymi with small houses. Here, in one of set of summer cafes, we also were arranged for a supper, trying to have a talk with the waitress who knew English even worse, than I. Fortunately, not unsuccessfully.

Contrary to a popular belief that Frenchmen neglect English language because of what dialogue with them is complicated or it is impossible, we with this problem as with unsoluble, did not face practically anywhere. Even in the remote places, in not most tourist places workers of sphere of service could say and understand though some words in English. As with vast questions we did not stick to usual passers-by, it to us was enough. As also our level of English, to put it mildly, it is difficult even to name level. But have learnt pair of tens beautiful words and expressions in French. In the rest used a sign language.

We have spent the most part of next day out of avtobanov, moving ahead on minor roads from a stronghold to a stronghold. The romantic water lock Shenonso thrown by the bridge-gallery through small river Sher was the first of them. Small and, apparently, completely not defensive. In a current of centuries it belonged only to women, including Ekaterina Medici, and it is very appreciable by internal furniture. Interiors were fine saved. It is especially interesting to visit kitchen in hollow support of the lock where ancient utensils and various original adaptations for processing and cooking are stored. During the Second World here there was a hospital, and patients fished directly from gallery windows. The audioguide tells about all it in Russian (10,50 Eur with visiting of gardens and the lock). And, as its functions are carried out by a high-grade handheld computer, as a deposit demand the passport. At last it is possible to have a bite in the cafe which have taken places in the former premises of stables, and to buy in the same place an excellent souvenir – a bottle of local wine Les Cuvees Chateau de Chenonceau.

Further we have arrived in Ambuaz. Here it is the present man's knight's castle of XV century with powerful walls and defensive towers. The smart external decor is combined with ascetic internal furniture. First of all this royal castle is interesting to that great Leonardo da Vinci here is buried. Here it has found a refuge after in the homeland, in Italy, compatriots have ceased to understand it. King Frantsisk I has given the chance to clear up to the genius on an architecture field with what the French Revival has begun. However, to building and Ambuaza Leonardo dressing of the relation had no, and he lived in next lock Klo-Ljuse where the museum of its inventions now works.

Further have arrived in Blua. In general, it enough the big small town, where the lock (6,50 Eur) – only one of sights. On others, anyhow, time did not suffice us. Feature of the lock is that each of its wings is constructed during different epoch and reflects architectural preferences of time: from the strict Middle Ages through a gothic style and revival to magnificent baroque. Octahedral screw smart ladder Frantsiska I as which consider as original symbol Blua is allocated. One more symbol – a porcupine, a heraldic sign on other owner of the lock, king Louis XII. There and then some museums, including picture gallery. In this lock we too have found out Da Vinci traces. Someone from owners (I will try to guess, what is it was Frantsisk I), similar, was the fan of creativity Leonardo and has placed in interiors of a copy of its some most well-known jobs. In particular, "Last Supper".

And it is possible to consider as top of the French period of creativity of Da Vinci grandiose lock Shambor, the biggest and beautiful in all valley of Loire. The children's dream embodied by the genius I. 365 of turrets and chimney pipes, the whole wood! Something in it is the Venetian. All this beauty is located in territory of the big park, and, more precisely, the whole wood – were hunting the grounds of the king. Actually, the settlement Shambor represents the site of virgin wood completely fenced with a 32-kilometre stone fence. Entrance through ancient gate. The green file is crossed by direct roads-streets with traffic signs and almost city marking. Huge parkings open-air. From the car through wood we went under sounds flowing it is not known whence solemn palace music. And here it before us, fantastically beautiful lock-palace. That this architectural masterpiece could be reflected in water, Frantsisk ordered to bring to it one of sleeves of Loire. It is a go. Simply there are no words … It is a pity, that has already passed for 5 evenings, and we and could not walk by at least small part from 440 rooms. Now here sometimes spend the present royal huntings. More often – horse parades. We had a possibility to get only on representation with the hunting birds, but is banal have regretted time. It is necessary to bypass only the lock around, to have a bite and buy firm shamborskogo wines for a collection.

Beautiful final point. Locks will suffice for today, we get out on avtorut. One more big moving, and is closer by midnight we in Dijon, in invariable "Ibis". Forces has sufficed only on pair glasses firm Burgundian in a bar. Very much it is necessary to fall asleep …

Be better than mountains mountains … can only
(Dijon-Shamoni-Ansi-Lion)

On Tuesdays in Dijon the fair, all centre of capital of Burgundy turns to the big market. Long wandered between trays, asking the price of jars Dijon gorchitsy, truffles and fua-gra, have not come across yet on small copper treugolnichek on asphalt with the image of an owl. Hardly at some distance – another, further – the third, etc. And then – the big copper square on which it is written, that supposedly you face to such sight. So we have gone on the Way of the Owl. It has appeared, that the Dijon owl is such city talisman. Its jammed thirsting executions of desires by hands can be found the image on northern wall local the Notr-lady, amazing also infinite quantity of drains-gorguly on a facade. And the path from copper treugolnichkov is twisted on all centre, driving tourists from one sight to another. And could not stop, yet have not bypassed everything, having spent for excursion has more time, than planned.

Then, even regretted spent time a little. Dijon, of course, a city interesting, but at us is planned for today Mont Blanc! Approaching on high-mountainous small village SHamoni, from a line admired the highest mountain of Europe in all its snow-covered magnificence. And at all did not know, that for today is last possibility it to photograph. After a dinner the top is tightened usually by a dense veil of clouds.

World capital of mountaineering have reached only by 16:00. Well here, were late. All lifts (lifting on different levels – from 15 to 52 Eur) have ahead of schedule stopped job vsvjazi with an approaching rain. There was a possibility only to go on a tramvajchike-cable car on a glacier, but this excursion somehow has not inspired. In general, on kanatkam to rise it is possible only on one of the next tops. Mont Blanc obeys only to the present rock-climbers. Such as fathers of mountaineering Balma, Pakkar and Sossjur, whose monuments decorate centre Shamoni. Having darted regretfully last glance at ill-starred clouds, we go to a way back. There is a sense to use released time with advantage.

So there was a spontaneous idea to call in, on road to Lyons, also in mountain small town Ansi. Here also it wanted to remain. For ever. Knowingly the photo of this place decorates one of title pages of the guidebook to France from «The National Geographic Traveler». Like, anything especial – pair of locks, channels, medieval small streets … But colour simply shaking! The city costs between mountains, on the bank of the cleanest mountain lake on which lonely yacht points go, boats and swans. On channels enormous big fishes whom nobody catches is impressive float. In water the medieval small houses entirely decorated with colours on window sills are reflected. It is not enough tourists, over water it is a lot of cosy cafes. Practically any vanity. Mountains, water and an ancient city. A pacification …

By the evening nevertheless have reached Lyons. A city huge and very noisy. Making the way on quay to hotel in crowd of the walking people and accompanied by rumbling from everywhere music, have decided, that in a city any holiday. The manager akkorovskoj has explained hotels Mercure Libertel Wilson, that celebrate «the second day of week». A pier, at them here every day a holiday. Mda … And I tried to choose rajonchik more silently, not on Preskile (the central part of a city on merge of Rhone and Sony), and behind the river. As it has appeared, the night life of a city here is concentrated. In the centre at this time, just, very silently. Even to find working restaurant it has appeared a problem. It was necessary to come back to quay where the people with might and main absorbed at this time mountains of seafood, washing down with fresh "Beaujolais". And at us also nalichka has ended, credit cards in summer vegetable marrows on quay did not accept, and a cash dispense in vicinities have found. The night little shop well still has got. Have typed cheeses, pates, wines and suited to themselves a holiday of "the second day of week» directly in number.

The most interesting in Lyons – hill Furver with bazilikoj I Notr-will give-de-furver also the rests of the oldest in France ancient Roman theatre Odeon. On this place the strong gallo-Roman friendship, and contemporaries Asteriksa has once arisen and Obeliksa even have acquired the right to be selected in the Senate. The museum with any ancient Roman bagatelles, including the present chariot works. Upward it is possible to call in by the car, to rise on foot, but it is the most convenient – on a cable car (2,20 Eur) which brings up directly to a basil. The church is very richly issued, and besides also the two-storeyed. When we have entered, orthodox church church chanting in Russian for some reason sounded. And have not understood, to what it. To survey a city is better from a viewing platform near to a cathedral. At hill bottom to be restricted picturesque Old Lyons with medieval and Renaissance constructions among which cathedral Sen-Zhan dominates. It is a lot of tourists, and contrast in comparison with that here was in the evening at once is felt. And on quay now it is just silent …

Karamba! Bullfight! And oh, damn!
(Avignon-IT-arl-marsel-sentrope)

We move further on the south. Here and solar Provence, to the sea it is already absolutely close. But at first we call in to Avignon to look a papal palace. In XIV century the city was residence of the several Popes when them have temporarily expelled from Italy. The papal palace as it is neatly told in the guidebook, reminds not a monastery of the ecclesiastic, and the lock of the tyrant more. Simply amazes with the unapproachable walls and defensive towers. To see, was that to be afraid to heads of Catholic church. Someone very strongly did not like them … Is better the lock looks from an opposite side of Rhone, and also from the Avignon bridge from which since XII century the river has left whole only 4 flights from 22. In a city now it is not enough churchmen. Now it have chosen professional and amatorskie theatrical companies which are flown down here in July from all world on Avignon festival. Representations arrange directly on the areas and small streets, often replacing each other. It also is the present colour of modern Avignon.

From a line between Avignon and Nimom it is necessary to curtail to the right, under brown indexes on Pon-dju-Gar (Pont du Gard). In my opinion, this most grandiose Roman construction in all France. The huge aqueduct in height 49 and 275 m is length only a small part of the whole system of bridges, tunnels and the aqueducts, constructed by Romans to deliver in It fresh water from a source located in 50 kilometres from a city. At all utility of a design it is simply amazing, as it is a lot of attention its founders gave to an aesthetics. Under three circles of huge arches the beach has settled down, the people in large quantities goes here on picnics. And the tourist infrastructure round this lonely object can be resulted as an example of the magnificent organisation of visiting and the careful relation of Frenchmen to the historical heritage.

We continue excursion on the Roman cities of France. To them has seemed absolutely not tourist place involving travellers only by the Roman Arena and a temple of Attics to the Penalty. The classical oval arena in the centre small, but is considered one of the most saved, up to external furnish. Gladiatorial fights there any more do not spend, however it still serves not less bloody entertainments. Up to now here spend the present bullfights – the affinity of Spain affects. But it only in May.

The same drama scenes are played and on arena in next Arle. This small town we have chosen for spending the night, having found on an electronic map road to nearest "Ibis". Except arena, also the Roman theatre here was saved. I do not know, whether play now in him tragedies, but in the evening we observed a rock concert.

The foot part of a city, despite later time, has appeared very hospitable. Having arranged in the first vegetable marrow with obviously tipsy waiter, whose cheerfulness has had to us exhausted, very opportunely, only here have understood, how have got tired during a trip. It when, having poured local house wine on glasses, I mechanically began to drink simply from a decanter. And has the day before left from a parking with an open luggage carrier. No, obviously it is time to have a rest. Two weeks of the trip sated with impressions is a maximum that can sustain our organisms and mentality. Now this already firm rule – to arrange rest for some days is closer to the end of any big travel.

But to desired resort Mentona still it is necessary to reach. It is impossible to drive indifferently by Marseilles! The big seaport (by the way, the most ancient in France – 600 g BC). A little focused on tourism, but to it just also it is attractive. Something bears a faint resemblance to Odessa. Probably, the cosmopolitism, ease and a spontaneity in the relation to a life. Here, near the Old Port hammered by small yachts, we unique time in France have seen huge and clumsy "Hammer" on these small streets. Let and in the civil version, but nevertheless. However, jeeps on the French roads, in comparison with last year, has appeared much more. And especially Frenchmen respect "Kajeny".

Over the port, protected by two medieval fortresses, the cathedral towers I Nort-will give-de-la-gard, the topped gold statue of Maiden Maria. Not having visited on a viewing platform of a cathedral, it is impossible to tell, that you saw Marseilles. Only the panorama of a bay sparkling under the sun, islands and well-known, thanks to Alexander Duma, lock If from here appears. It seems, that really from ancient prison to coast it is possible to reach by swimming. To risk I do not recommend. It is better to use an excursion boat which regularly goes from port. And the cathedral is unusual the registration on sea subjects: marinistskie pictures, models of sailing vessels, steering wheels, oars, networks, ryndy etc.

Last point which we have resolved not to pass, was to the Sen-track. Very much wished Ksjuha to see those small streets where actions of legendary films «were developed And the God has created the woman» and «the Gendarme from the Sen-track». Not speaking already about a known youth serial. It is difficult to understand, that the French bohemia has found in this remote fishing small village in traditional provanskom style: rising from coast circles the small houses, brightly painted walls, dark blue shutters-jalousie at windows. As everywhere in district. But the smartest yachts of millionaires in local harbour now really adjoin to simple fishing boats. A special glamour – to get here slightly restored country hut for summer pastime. Such here «green tourism» in French. It is necessary to rise on a hill and to glance in a fortress in which the exposition of an original modern sculpture has taken places and freely peacocks walk. And kinds therefrom quite good. And fans of painting will be pleased with that part of quay where work and, at the same time, sell the creations modern artists.

From thought to reach to Mentona on the Bottom eaves, through all seaside small towns, it was necessary to refuse, as soon as we have got to the first stopper. Well, as, Day of a capture of the Bastile! All somewhere hurry. Were hardly pulled out on avtorut and for pair-three hours, at last, have reached the resort. With the big work have made the way through crowd celebrating to and have driven to hotel. We settle, we creep out on a patio-terrace, and Menton meets us grandiose fireworks. Have reached …

All I searched for that Coast Azure …
(Menton-Verona-Zaltsburg)

Six days on the sea I will not describe in detail. An overall objective was NOTHING to DO. A mode idle time: in the morning a breakfast, then a beach, an easy dinner on road to number, silent hour, again a beach, a relaxation at any new small restaurant in the Old city or on coast, a dream. Very much in a theme there was a small collection of fresh cinema on DVD which we looked from there is nothing to do on a nout-beech before a dream (on the TV of nothing clearly). That russkogovorjashchaja administratorsha hotels – girl Irina from Voronezh which simply came off on us after the long period of dialogue with a contingent of exclusively romano-German language group has appeared pleasant and not too persuasive addition to lazy rest. All these days before windows promajachil a rocket cruiser of the Black Sea fleet which has arrived in Menton to take out home ashes of any Russian admiral, and on a city shnyrjali small groups of the scared Russian morjachkov. Both the pure sea, and magnificent mountain landscapes, and an ancient city …

Unfortunately, and have not tried well-known local to an ear bujabes (Bouillabaisse) which prepare from uncountable quantity of various grades of the small small fish. Have found it only in three places, but there offered, at least, till three-four portions at once for 80-100 Eur together. Expensive pleasure. It was necessary to be content only with cheaper substitute – fish soup de-puasson (Soup de Poisson), too very tasty. But seafood have gorged on in plenty: and mussels "mul" (Moules), and oysters "uitr" (Huritres), and lobsters (Lobsters), and more it is much not clear that. In the afternoon, in the heat when is it would not be desirable at all, the diet rescued easy salad nisuaz (Nicoise). Well, and a high-grade breakfast, clear business, the hotel provided.

Family hotel Paris-Rome ***, in comparison with standard "Ibises", has seemed very picturesque. The mistress – the brisk grandmother of years under eighty. Extremely active and prying into all affairs. In parallel from it affairs fill the son with the wife. And the madam does not shun to cope that on resepshene, in buffet, and mese – at restaurant and on a bar. But on all it is visible, that main here all the same the grandmother. Here and interiors under olden time, and «creative kitchen» at restaurant, both old girl-friends-parlourmaids, and an ancient cat on steps. And the name not casual – the hotel is located literally on border of France and Italy. Under windows – a wild stony beach, to civil – minutes of 15 walkings. One trouble – our number though and superior, it has appeared without the promised balcony. Then have already looked after to steam of hotels more cheaply, is more subcentral, it is direct over beaches and with desired balconies. On following time.

It's time to go. We will come back through Italy, Austria and Hungary. For road home it is allocated not four as it would be desirable initially but only three days. Means, it is necessary to reduce the program. Milan is left on then, we decide to be limited to Verona and Salzburg.

No, all the same three hours is for Verona catastrophically a little. Certainly, we have found «Juliette's court yard» where there is a monument to Shakespearean heroine with jammed by hands of tourists a breast and a balcony on which all lovers of literary romanticism – the whole turn are necessarily photographed. Narrowness in a court yard terrible, any pleasure from visiting. Guidebooks also suggest to look Juliette's for tomb and house Montekki where there lived Romeo. Many believe. And is better verontsy would put a monument to Shakespeare (can and is, but we did not see) thanks to which now not bad earn on operation of images of the well-known characters. However, to a city to eat than be proud and without Juliette. The huge Arena where there pass various mass actions reminds of Roman times. The Middle Ages is better it is felt on Pjatstsa business Erbe and area Sinorii with ancient public and private buildings, towers and columns. Defensive power of a city underlines Kastel Vekkio to which conducts fortifitsirovannyj the bridge through small river Adidzh. Thick fortifications from a red brick are topped by the M-shaped teeth that does their similar to walls of the Moscow Kremlin. It is known, that the brick Kremlin in XV was built by the Italian masters – one school.

Leaving a city, have decided to refuel. After the full tank is filled in, the cash machine suddenly refuses to accept a credit card. And the second is already empty. Hardly naskrebli the necessary sum denominations and a trifle. The cash dispense which has appeared nearby also refuses to spend transaction. Money is not present more, and to us still to go and go … the Call to bank clears up a situation – somehow we have managed to touch a limit by quantity of transactions for days. Well, before departure we after all called in in a supermarket to type with ourselves of more French wine, cheeses, pates and other delicacies on gifts and the subsequent tastings with memoirs. Then all the day, at any possibility, I paid in a card. Here also has got. Warned after all … Well, that the bank has agreed to remove all limits till the end of day. But a science good – it is necessary to have a reserve on a spare card and any sum cash to the end of a trip.

Salzburg till the night to reach and could not. It was necessary to spend the night in Vilahe, on border of Italy and Austria. It was remembered simply as very small and silent small town with the compact ancient centre.

Salzburg has met a toffee on road which has begun on entrance. And, all went there where it was necessary also for us – on the central parking. It is placed very in an original way, in the middle of long mountain which crosses city centre. As other variants to park have found, it was necessary to stand in turn. It has appeared, that in a city just there passes any jazz festival, so flow of tourists especially mass. Here all tourist industry is constructed on Mozart's name (interestingly, descendants receive the percent?) . There are at least Mozart's two houses (where he was born and where veins), Mozart's area, Mozart's street, conservatory of a name of Mozart, well and the well-known sweets «Mozart-Kugel» – a classical Salzburg souvenir. The most beautiful kind for old quarters, the river and surrounding mountains opens from viewing platforms of fortress Hoenzaltsburg. Directly in the lock the cable car line is laid. In the impressive territory similar to a small town, it is possible to visit some museums, including the most interesting museum of puppets. And on narrow small streets and covered passages, peremezhevyvajushchimsja with cosy public gardens, it would be necessary to take a walk all the day.

But we wish today still to have time to reach Ukraine. Also it has almost turned out. On border on familiar Hungarian roads approached deeply for a midnight. It was possible to use a case to pass night border without turns, but the prospect to search for a lodging for the night on dark Ukrainian cities did not seduce. Has just turned up decent in appearance Hungarian motelchik, and we have fallen to sleep off after a long journey of all kilometres in 40 from the Native land …

*******

It is necessary to add, that border have passed for one and a half hour. At 18 bottles of wine in three boxes tamozhennitsa, fortunately, has looked with understanding. The most part of road to Kiev while I relaxed on a passenger armchair, at the wheel was Ksjuha. In this trip we were interchanged the position often, that has appeared very conveniently. Especially when eyes under lulling rustling of tyres on an ideal covering avtobana start to stick together. It is better not to test destiny, will and an organism for durability, and easy to doze half an hour-hours.

For three weeks of a trip have reeled up 7631 km – on one thousand more than last year. And, on money this time on the contrary there was an economy almost on 500 Eur. Expenses were distributed as follows:

- Gasoline – 580 Eur;
- avtobany – 200 Eur;
- Parkings – 115 Eur;
- Public transport – 30 Eur;
- Museums, excursions – 270 Eur;
- Hotels – 1550 Eur;
- Cafe, restaurants – 1500 Eur;
- Souvenirs (wine, delicacies, knickknacks) – 400 Eur.

Total, the trip budget has made 4645 Eur. Here it is possible to add on visas, guidebooks and other insignificant expenses on trip preparation. But as a whole, this time Europe has managed to us little bit more cheaply, than last year (it is visible, experience affects). At our requirements to comfort level, it turns out nearby 220 Eur a day. To save it is really possible on all. For example, for spending the night to choose motels far away from the centre of cities for 30-40 Eur, not to abuse a restaurant food, I am less to spend for souvenirs etc. avtobanami would not disdain – fine save time, costs that. Not being too compressed at all, really to keep within in 3000 Eur. And in a policy of strict economy – still than time in ones and a half is cheaper. But even at our budget there is a sense to prefer plane – an automobile trip to Europe if the purpose is not simply to roll about on a beach, and time most part all the same to devote to travel and excursions. And we will enter following time.