Georgia: taste of wine and freedom

«Підем at once!» - the citation from the most popular Ukrainian song and a wave of a hand policeman Dato has invited to follow patrol. We have moved for its newcomer sine-white "Dzhettoj" with flashing majachkami on a roof, examining richly illuminated night Batumi. It was the final point our tiresome, but the travel overflowed with impressions. It seemed, from the moment of disembarkation from the ferry on the Georgian earth there has passed already whole month though only we have spent in a way of 10 days. Children should depart soon to Kiev by the plane, and to us – to spend still a week on the sea. Now we tried to find two numbers in decent hotel in an unfamiliar place in the heat of a resort season. To help us the police patrol inexpressibly surprised with occurrence in subordinated territory of strange car «ßÒíáÓÒ« moreover and with Ukrainian numbers was called. Yes, not our autotourist … more often here reaches


Crossing
Kiev-Odessa-Ilichyovsk-Poti

The trip to Georgia always was in our plans, so to say, without a serial number. To visit the wine and freedom country (and, in one glass) very much wanted, but concrete terms never put. While the life has not given clear majachok – it is time! The Great Britain was covered on a number of circumstances, this time it would not be desirable other Europe, variants does not remain. We go to Georgia!

As it has appeared, to carry out dream not too simply. To reach Georgia the most beautiful route (on northeast coast of Black sea) it is impossible – the Georgian-Abkhazian border is densely closed. To go round the sea from the south through Romania, Bulgaria and Turkey – it is too difficult. There is only one real overland route – through Krasnodar territory, Stavropol Territory, Kabardino-Balkariya and the North Ossetia, but strashnovato – the Chechen Republic nearby. However, there would be a good company! At this particular time the next automobile race from Ukraine to Georgia was prepared by the Lvov society "Aragvi". To us have suggested to become in a column the twelfth. Were both fellow travellers – colleague-traveller Sergey and its companion Dmitry. Preparation has begun. All went well while Russia has not closed unique operating frontier transition in area Kazbegi «on repair». Automobile race have postponed till September, and we needed to use last variant – to get over from Odessa directly in poti on the ferry. Have contacted ferry company "Укрферри" which supervises this route, have reserved places for passengers and the car, and in a way!

At Odessa office "Укрферри" we were in the morning on Tuesday, in day of departure of the ferry (once a week goes). On a route the comfortable passenger-and-freight vessel "Grejfsvald" a German origin – one of five greatest railway ferries in the world (length of 190 m, width of 28 m, weight 11700) to what the certificate «Book of records Ginessa» testifies works. It is helped by two Ukrainian ferries of purely cargo character. Car transportation one way costs $315 (we taki managed to convince managers, that "Forester" not a jeep), journey of the passenger with three meals a day – from $150. Flight lasts more than two days. Departure from Ilyichevsk at 23:00, but on loading it is necessary to be much earlier – it is necessary to pass set of customs formalities. I advise to be loaded in the end, on a lower deck after cars. Then on coast will get among the first.

First felt a little uncomfortably, having appeared among hundred sweaty truckers bortsovskogo a constitution which for days on end looked on TV "Мимино", were cut in a backgammon and devastated alcohol stocks in a bar. From the "civil" population have found out only pair of the Poles who were going to on foot to submit caucasus. However, the captain has given to our modest persons an attention maximum – has allocated a separate little table at "restaurant", has allowed to use pool and a sauna and even has spent small excursion to the bridge, having allowed to twist a steering wheel. However, already by the end of the first day we somehow have gradually appeared in the centre of general attention. Us have invited to the improvised banquet on a deck, having shown all prominent features of the Georgian feast. Learning who we and what for go to Georgia, everyone considered as the debt to share the reasons concerning a forthcoming route and noteworthy sights. All showed amazing knowledge of the Georgian geography, history and features of culture of separate regions. Yet not having reached Georgia, we already have appeared on a visit, and the visitor for the Georgian is sacred.


Colchis
Poti-Zugdidi-Kutaisi-Gelati

poti – the small seaport brightly noted by the press of the worst events of the newest Georgian history. If the big turn of cargoes in port also brings any money, they here obviously are not late. Around serost and ruin. Impressions are supplemented with gloomy weather – last month rains did not stop almost.

The unloading and passage of customs procedures have occupied hours six. All occurs very slowly, it is necessary to run constantly from one building in another, the decision of each question is accompanied by long conversation. And as, we after all in Georgia! Visiting of the country for Ukrainians visa-free, is required only the passport. But customs officers simply came off. It seemed, it it was simply curious, with what luggage the Ukrainian tourists travel. They have carefully studied the car, asking on technical characteristics, thoroughly perepotroshili all bags, even have asked to switch on the digital camera and the laptop. Explain, that at them a month on struggle against contraband of drugs, so any indulgences. Then we yet did not know, that on a return way, already in Ilyichevsk, procedure will appear much more difficult. To followers I advise to grasp 3-4 copies of passports and the log on the car – will help to save time strongly.

On the bank of us active businessman Jasha from Zugdidi, the relative of the representative of a society "Aragvi" Dzhumbera from Lvov meets. "Aragvi" has promised to us warm reception and all assistance on a place, expressed in dense guardianship with which has surrounded us JAsha. To be pulled out it is unreal! All at it is seized, all can organise, any questions instantly solves own efforts or on a call to influential friends. Not say for nothing, that the most hospitable people live in the western part of Georgia.

We lodge in unattractive regional hotel "Зугдиди" (M.Kostava's street, 5а; bodies: (995 215) 54242; $30-40 for double), we change money ($1 = 1,75 chests). On a course the head of local broadcasting company Gochi joins our company – the pleasant young Georgian who has returned home in the busy seasons of the beginning 90 when the others in large quantities ran from the country. And by the end of day action is headed by the assistant to the governor of area Alexander who has heard from acquaintances about visitors from Ukraine. All comes to an end, certainly, a long feast till late night when all bring cold wine and bring in the big jugs, toasts flow from one in another, conversations on the politician are replaced by reasonings on a generality of fraternal people, the Georgian soul, the nature of things, and the understanding, that all Georgians at heart philosophers comes.

Against such sincere kindliness visiting of local sights already starts to seem a question minor, but we would not be worthy a proud rank of travellers if did not take itself in hands. Time at us just barely enough.

So, Zugdidi is the historical centre of Mingrelia, more known to us as Colchis. Yes-yes, Argonauts have stuck to these coast in search of the Gold fleece once. Speak, under this poetic image the technology of a gold mining, after all namyvali its ancient Georgians by means of the sheep skin disappears unknown then to Greeks. Anyhow, but in those days, when Greeks only have started to colonize Black Sea Coast (VI century BC) In territory of the western Georgia already there was a powerful centralised state. The capital was around present Kutaisi – there we still will be in time. While we will walk on small, but to picturesque botanical garden Zugdidi. It adjoins a graceful patrimonial palace megrelskih princes Dadiani. This surname is known for relationship with Bonaparte! One of princesses Dadiani was married for nephew Napoleon Askilom Mjuratom. So in a family museum there was a posthumous mask of the emperor which is now the main exhibit of an ethnographic museum. There is also a sacred relic – a shroud of Maiden Maria, but to see it uneasy. Expose on a review only on the big holidays.

The area before a palace is reconstructed and planted trees and shrubs, as well as a public garden in city centre. In the rest Zugdidi 15th years of war and ruin are the vivid example of a heavy heritage. The huge weight of refugees from Abkhazia Here has settled – for one night the city population has doubled! The typical houses occupied by refugees (hostels, hotels, sanatoria etc.), on all country frighten of holes of the taken out windows and the smoked walls. For years of depression all industry has died, problems with light and water became norm, heated than it is necessary, lived on credit and were interrupted by casual earnings. Only about left never forgot – tombs with entirely young faces on gravestones everywhere with beautiful fencings and under canopies.

From Zugdidi it is the most convenient to storm Svanetiju – the mountain area known as «the country of thousand towers». For a long time svany built at the houses high and improbably strong quadrangular towers which carried out simultaneously economic and defensive functions. All guidebooks recommend to visit district Mestija and the most high-mountainous settlement in Europe Ushguli (2200), brought for the exclusiveness and pervozdannost in lists of the world heritage of UNESCO. Us unostentatiously dissuade. The pier, is not present problems, but nearby in Kodorsky gorge there is a shooting, police special action. We guarantee a pier, safety, but svany – the people strange and unpredictable, automatic machines at them as a part of economic stock. Last argument – excursion will occupy three days, and two of them on road which in those edges is unpredictable. Is not present so it is a lot of time allocate for one sight we we can not. And shooting and in Zugdidi had pleasure at night to hear. To us have explained, what is it the police makes ballistic examination. But somehow have uncertainly explained …

As a consolation prize us have accompanied in mountains almost to Dzhavari where there is the highest in Europe a dam (271). It partitions off small river Inguri directly on border with Abkhazia. And, the dam is in Georgia, and electrogenerators – in territory of rebellious republic. Water Georgian, and an electricity Abkhazian. Have agreed to halve energy. On HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION it is possible to get only on spetsrazresheniju. At us such possibility was, but the strong wind with a rain has beaten off desire to walk over the roaring precipice competing to the well-known dam of Hoover. Well, and lonely svanskuju a tower over road, coming back, we all the same have seen.

Not to lose time, have decided to have time to reach the same day Kutaisi. Gochi has there and then rung round colleagues and has soon informed, that we are met already by representatives of the Kutaisi TV. So to say, from hands in hands. Healthy fellow Giga on the big American jeep has appeared a receiving party this time. With its kind help, naturally, no problems with journey on a city and hotel search have arisen.

Kutaisi, ancient capital of the Kolhidsky kingdom – now enough the big industrial city, the region Imeretija centre. To the operating industry remains a little, the western investors only ask the price of the tidbits while. However, a city it is impossible to name industrial, its medieval part is full of silent charm. Colour first of all creates temple Bagrata (X-XI centuries) on a hill in the centre. Once Georgian tsar Bagrat III (well-known sort Bagrationi of noble family therefrom has gone, whose representative has become famous on military service in imperial Russia) has constructed for itself the whole dvortsovo-temple complex the grandiose cathedral of Assumption Presvjatoj of the Virgin was which main element. In a primordial form up to now it has not lived. Under one version it was blown up by Turks, on another – Russian (so, it is pure for training) have shot from guns. However, walls and altarnaja a part were saved, divine services have decided to renew and spend them directly open-air.

However the main centre of gravity of tourists is monastery Gelati in 10 km from a city which is well visible from a hill from Bagrata. It has been based in 1106 by the most outstanding Georgian governor David IV, which name the Builder (David the Builder as write on monuments) though would be more correct to speak the Collector. He has created the first incorporated Georgian state approximately in present borders. After a victory over Turks-seldzhukami capital have transferred to Tbilisi, but the monastery has not lost the value thanks to that became an imperial tomb. David has ordered to bury itself under southern collars so that each entering trampled on its remains feet. Now in many big temples of Georgia it is possible to see the gravestones which have been built in directly in a floor. To cross not necessarily – outstanding people wanted, that descendants were closer to them.

Excursion to us was spent by the person whom we have first accepted for the monk. It has appeared, that it the usual guide, but with spiritual education that was very much felt in that respect with which he spoke about the Georgian heroes. From it we have heard interesting history about an origin of some letters of the Georgian alphabet, it has shown us ruins ancient gelatskoj to Academy in which there was even own observatory. Now there a small museum, and in the future plan to place one of faculties of present Kutaisi academy. By the way, both temple Bagrata, and monastery Gelati also are under UNESCO protection.

Fantastic kinds open from small monastery Motsameta located nearby (X century). It have constructed on a place where, on a legend, Turks executed and have dumped in the river of princes David and Konstantin which have refused to accept Islam. Is under Kutaisi and a remarkable nature sanctuary. The Sataplijsky reserve in mountains is well-known not only the big karstic cave with the underground small river, traditional stalactites and stalagmites, but also the present traces of dinosaurs. Everywhere we met set of excursion groups – basically local and Armenians. Came across to us on a way and compatriots. The tourists who are speaking Russian, here appear Ukrainians, instead of Russians more often. But almost each time arises familiar sensation, that we abroad each other for some reason are not glad. Even in hospitable Georgia! The exchange of greetings, and all – further conversation is not glued …

But table-talks in the Georgian company always live and bright. This time at the cosy country small restaurant which name is translated as «the Rural court yard», behind a table "tamadil" Giga. As well as all Georgians, he spoke about the politician, about postrevolutionary improvements in the country, about intrigues of neighbours and about the Ukrainian-Georgian friendship much. It seems, has pull together our people absence of the general border and presence of general northern neighbour. Ukrainians never were at war against Georgia, and in Kiev the Georgian does not feel "Caucasian".

In relation to policy Saakashvili we heard criticism infrequently. Some said, that he promised much, but does a little. That its policy in relations with Russia is insufficiently flexible and too confrontational, unlike the Ukrainian. That it is too Americanized and has lost the Georgian spirit. But all noticed, that the life for last years has aloud improved. Almost it is completely eradicated correcting at SHevardnadze kriminal (thieves in the law), gangsterism and shooting in streets any more are not a part of a daily life, in the evenings in dark parks easy walk the companies of youth and a couple of the enamoured. Have started to build roads (to repair there is already nothing, it is necessary to build from zero), prepare for privatisation the escaped industrial targets (for example, the Kutaisi car factory), the big capitals involve in development of a tourist infrastructure. The police … About, is separate conversation. Yes, salaries still low ($100 in Tbilisi it is normal whereas it is a little price above, than in Ukraine), utilities and gasoline expensive ($1 for litre of 95th Premium), many reforms ostentatious, calculated on visitors. But after all and image of the country is created! On many parametres Georgia is already closer to Europe, than Ukraine. First of all, the purposefulness.

Service. Decent hotels in Kutaisi a little. Have checked up a little. Hotel "Sunny" (avenue Rustaveli, 161а has appeared the best; bodies: +995 331 76752). Comfortable double rooms with all conveniences and the conditioner on 60-100 chests. The big restaurant of a Georgian cuisine and the closed parking. However, not in the centre. In old quarters have found private hotel "Гелати" on type gesthausa (street on May, 26th, 2 line, 4; bodies: +995 331 48 074). Here offer practically house conditions of residing for moderate money (nearby 50 chests). Are very hospitable to Ukrainians.


Iberia
Surami-BURN-uplistsihe-mtsheta-tbilisi

On road to Tbilisi at us two stops are planned. In resort Surami to us have recommended to visit an ancient fortress which is well visible at top of a small rock from a line. The Georgian love to the Native land is embodied in this stronghold. On a legend, unapproachable these walls could become only after in them will immure the live young man, the unique son of the widow. The call of duty has appeared more strongly thirst of a life and parent love – constructed on blood of the hero the fortress became unapproachable. In a small small chapel now it is possible to put a candle for independence of the country and returning of its sons. As the Ukrainian who has spent last years lives in Surami has returned already after death home and the well-known daughter of Ukrainian people lesja. To the house-museum the local boy, words not understanding in Russian (the adult population, basically, tolerably owns «great and mighty»), but at once reacted to a name of the foreign poetess for it was called to show us road. 2 chests he has earned the fairly. And we as it is a shame to admit, have for some reason decided to search here for tomb Lesi of the Ukrainian. While near a museum to us have not explained, that she is buried in Kiev.

On a hill in the centre Burn enormous multilevel medieval fortress Goristsihe of times of David Stroitelja towers. Speak, it is constructed on a place of earlier, still antique strengthening. Certainly, we have got upward, have examined majestic ruins and vicinities. Therefrom the central prospectus of a city and unique in the world the saved monument to Stalin is well visible. After all to the world Burn it is known as the native land of "the Kremlin mountaineer». A small house of the shoemaker in which the future tyrant – the unique saved construction in the centre was born. Over it have built on special protective pavilion, and all space have around smoothed out and have erected nearby a grandiose building of the Museum of Stalin. In days of struggle against a cult of personality local residents have managed almost with the weapon in hands to defend memory of the disgraced fellow countryman, and now have possibility to earn on curious foreign tourists. stalinizma we here have not met ardent supporters, an inconsistent figure of "the father of the people» gorijtsy concern easy and without pathos, but mentions about raskulachivanii, golodomore, GULAGe and other "delights" of an epoch of building of socialism we in a museum and have found. Only the comfortable personal car of the leader. Foreign, by the way.

The road on Uplistsihe should be asked, it is few indexes. However dorozhniki put new asphalt, it will not be fast problems with an entrance. The freakish cave complex on a grief is well looked through from opposite coast of the Hen. It is heavy to imagine, that this huge temple city was manually cut in soft sandstone by a small command from 80 persons two and a half thousand years ago! During antique times it was a part of Iberia – the East Georgian kingdom of Kartli from which modern Georgia (not for nothing a root of "maps" originates was saved in the modern name of the country which in a Georgian way sounds as "Sakartvelo"). Unique land construction – a small churchlet – has appeared here only in X century caves All rest: temples-caves, houses-caves, a drugstore-cave. The biggest hall with two columns is named by a name of legendary tsarina Tamaras. There are plumbing and sanitary rests, the secret tunnel to the river and a well-prison.

Purpose of one of premises with deepening and a drain in a floor – a traditional riddle of local guide Stalbera (derivative of surnames Stalin and Berija) for which decision he promises to tourists a wine jug. We with the idea about an antique toilet have appeared not original and have cheerfully ruined examination on ingenuity. But and vkusnejshim jam from green nuts our guide all the same has treated with house wine of own manufacture in small cafe with which it suited at an input in reserve. He considers this wine as a secret of the health and longevity. To this old man vigorously jumping on stones, all life lived in area where 320 days in a year are fried by the sun, already under 80 years though by sight you will give no more than 50. He has devoted last 25 years of the life to studying of history of the edge, about ancient tsars, heroes and sacred it is possible to listen to its stories hard drinking. Here also have met the present Georgian aged man.

Service. Near to the centre Burn there is remarkable hotel "Victoria" **** (street of Tsarina Tamara, 76; bodies: +995 32 951272). Let does not frighten zvyozdnost – very good double rooms here offer all for 70 chests. However, for a breakfast it is necessary to descend in the next cafe. Motel "Burn" on district at which there is a restaurant with a specific platform can be alternative same inexpensive. For a supper it is recommended to go to popular "Venice" that has settled down over small river also around the district. The present Georgian cuisine, despite the Italian name, is guaranteed. As the taxi driver was expressed, in cities live, and have a rest in the country!

On an entrance to Tbilisi us meets Mtsheta – ancient capital and the main spiritual centre of Georgia. Once the Georgian statehood here has arisen. Here has brought a good message sacred Nino. Here one of the greatest relics of the Christian world is stored. It is one more point in lists of the world heritage of UNESCO. Having moved down from a line, we do a small hook through the bridge and we park before an input in strict and majestic cathedral Svetitshoveli (1010-29), one of few saved constructions of a medieval city. The legend about him so shaking, that without details not to manage.

Mtshetsky rabbi Elioz, being in Jerusalem, has got occasionally at the Roman soldiers Tunic gospoden – clothes which Jesus carried last days the terrestrial life. Apostle Igor, and the first followers of the doctrine of the Christ by then has had time to visit Georgia in Mtshete already were. In particular, sister of rabbi Sidionija. Having realised, what great relic has appeared at it in hands, Sidionija has not taken out the happiness and has died. A tunic and could not take out from her hands, and have buried them together. On a tomb the tree as which began to consider sacred has grown. Crosses which have carried in the different ends of the country have been made of it under the request krestitelnitsy Georgia sacred Nino. And the stub which has remained from a sacred tree began to exhale miro. It have named the Life-giving Pillar – Svetitshoveli. Over it in IV century have erected the first Georgian church reconstructed later with the big scope. The legend asserts, that upon termination of building at the architect have cut a hand that it could not construct anything similar any more. His hand outlines are visible on the western facade. Here, as well as in Gelati, many Georgian tsars are buried.

Unfortunately, a pillar to us to see has not had the luck – there were restoration jobs. We have postponed on then ("then", of course, there was no time) and lifting to temple Dzhvari (585-604), that towers at mountain top over Mtshetoj. There sacred Nino has erected the cross brought from Cappadocia from the rods connected by its hair (that, Georgian, with the lowered crossbeams). Therefrom, speak, the most magnificent kind on Mtshetu opens, but to go it is necessary in the morning that did not blind the coming sun. It is necessary to glance and in next medieval monastery Samtavro (XI century) where first Christian tsar Mirian is based.

Georgia – the country of churches. One only sacred George's temples exactly 365. pobedonosets – one of the most esteemed sacred. Not it is for nothing country in all languages of the world name georgiej. Russian word Georgia, by the way, is a transcription of this name from Turkish language.

On days off entrances to monasteries are hammered by wedding trains – young prefer to get married in the most sacred places. Religiousness at the Georgian in blood. They are proud of that remain one of Christianity strongholds in the east, and feel on equal with Constantinople. The church is the powerful uniting factor. The spiritual power does not clash with secular, but, speak, in questions at issue last word always will be for the Catholicos.

For high-grade excursion across Tbilisi it is necessary to allocate all the day, and to see for this time it will be possible only external. Our private hotel is successfully located in the centre, at Freedom area. Well-known prospectus Rustaveli (the Georgian Kreschatik), turned in the beginning 90 in the present battlefield Here begins. Walking on shady sidewalks and considering ancient buildings it is difficult to present, that one and a half ten years ago here there were bloody street fights, went bronetehnika and artillery shooting over open sights was conducted. So SHevardnadze returned lost on a wave of a democratic revolution the power. It is a lot of histories about it we heard once from our old familiar – the Ukrainian Georgian, memory about which now is maintained often by our politicians, speaking about a freedom of speech. With humour at it was that's all right so that already far civil war of which now nothing reminds in brisk street, is perceived more as a series of sad jokes.

The passer-by going nearby, having identified in us tourists, has started to tell about each building: the State museum, the government House, Temple Kashueti, the Grammar school with monuments TSeritali and CHavchavadze, Theatre of Rustaveli, … Has told Opera theatre and has gone further on the affairs. All time, since Kiev, we tried to find maps and guidebooks to Georgia. There is Lonely Planet across caucasus in English, still an advertising guidebook to Tbilisi, some booklets about resort regions, and all. In Russian there is practically nothing. And, actually, what for? After all here each passer-by – both a map, and the guidebook! All know, all will tell, will describe a route. And if it is not clear, will sit down in the car and will show road.

But there are in Tbilisi some places which were to be noted especially. First of all, it is area of baths – the most historical heart of a city. On a legend, in IV century the founder of Tbilisi tsar Gorgasal hunted in these places. Its falcon has overtaken to the pigeon which has fallen in a hot source. And directly there has cooked. A birdie it is a pity, of course, but in such case, the tsar has decided to construct a fortress which Tbilisi (in transfer with Georgian "tbili" has named on unique curative keys means warm). Sources beat and now, over them the next centuries have erected sulfuric terms, in one of which (so-called "blue") so liked to luxuriate Pushkin. They are opened and now. Round domes of baths with a fortress on a background it is possible to name the city card. The proud falcon over the boiled victim is immortalised by a small monument. And from the Metehsky rock on opposite coast of the Hen on the creation tsar Gorgasal – typically in a Georgian way modeled on a game and with the lifted hand looks.

Nearby – the area called by a familiar word the Maidan. No, it not revolution epicentre, and simply slice of Europe on a joint with Asia. Some very narrow foot small streets are ideally reconstructed, populated with boutiques and souvenir benches, forced by little tables of summer small restaurants. It is a lot of foreigners always – here they feel in the plate. But also the prices are focused on newcomers from the desired West.

Further the Old city proceeds in all the pervozdannosti. The broken asphalt and an ancient stone blocks of small streets on steep slopes pass in curve steps. Slightly restored facades adjoin to picturesque shabby court yard. Almost full absence of greens is compensated by a shade from hanging balconies. Prominent feature of the Tbilisi architecture – the long and wide verandahs-galleries often playing a role of corridors more habitual to us. It is possible to envy only to townspeople, whose carved balconies hang from rocks over a muddy Hen. The street Baratashvili lasts along an ancient city wall – now the medieval laying forms a basis for characteristic two - three-storyed tiflisskih small houses. Small monasteries, temples, domes and crosses everywhere are seen. Cathedral Sioni (V-XII centuries) – One of the main spiritual centres of the country. Here that first Georgian cross from the grapevines, connected by hair sacred Nino is stored. The Anchishatsky church, temple Metehi, grandiose novodel – cathedral TSminda Sameba … Tens and tens churches most appreciable from which crown with itself peaks of rocks.

The city lays in a river valley in an environment of high hills, clambering houses on neighbouring kruchi. On foot we rise on mountain Sololaki to fortress Narikala – an ancient citadel and residence of the Georgian tsars. It also has begun Tbilisi. When it has occurred, precisely nobody knows, but in 386 the fortress was already known. From here the central part of Tbilisi is well looked through. But full representation about city scales can be made only having risen on Mtatsmindu – Sacred mountain. To a teletower the cable car and a rope-way is laid, however them yet have not put in order. It is necessary to go by the car. Some kilometres of a streamer, and before us open a panorama of an enormous megacity. Those quarters which we had time to proceed for a day on foot is only a small part of a city. From height it seems simply huge. And it is valid so – in capital lives third of all population of Georgia (1,5 million from 4,5 million)!

In the evening, according to the advice of the owner of hotel, we go to restaurant «Dzveli sahli». The stylised farmstead in a stone and a tree is successfully located on the bank of the Hen, the menu abounds with national dishes, and on days off live music plays, execute the present Georgian dances. Here it, this well-known Georgian polyphony! Four executors sing powerfully, seriously and with inspiration, already murashki on a skin. Dimka reserves "Tbiliso". Yes, now and I understand, why he considers her as a beautiful Georgian song. In the answer singers execute to us «Eh, roads …», having explained then present, that here visitors from Russia. «From Ukraine!», - we amicably correct. Instantly all turn around. «Ukraine!», - prokatyvaetsja on a hall general exclamation, hands with glasses simultaneously rise upwards. «Budmo! The gay!» - it is answered traditional Cossack rechyovkoj. And here begins … To us delegates from all little tables with toasts about love to our country and "Ocean Elzy" approach. We answer with reciprocal visits and toasts. Musicians recollect all Ukrainian songs from the repertoire. Young guys from the big company of well-founded emigrants execute for us incendiary Georgian dance. Girls with fantastic voices sing akapelno "Sakartvelo". Together we dance under "Odessa-mum". On tables lists of phones present on a case go, «if something is required in Tbilisi». We promise all to accept warmly in Kiev. It seems, many are ready to go already now.

It is good to be the Ukrainian in Georgia. Hearing Russian speech, at first us usually accepted for Russians. No, the relation always was very affable and good-natured. But when the word Ukraine sounded, on persons suddenly there was a sincere pleasure and even delight. Everyone necessarily recollected, that is somehow connected with our country: itself happened, relatives live, the friend has left. Us praised for boldness and neglect stereotypes. And simply signalled and waved hands from passing by cars, having noticed numbers with «UA» and a sine-yellow tag. On a line huge black «Mercedes ML», having caught up, began to draw in and persistently to blink the distant. Reasonable Sergey has suggested not to stop – whether a little that. All the same I brake, I lower glass. And from "Mercedes" ask: «Ukraine or Yugoslavia»? I answer. «Ies!», - the little son of the young driver does victorious gesture by a hand. He has won dispute!

Service. At random have successfully stopped in hotel "АТА" *** (street Leselidze, 17; bodies: +995 32 987715). As a matter of fact, it is the usual apartment house partially converted under hotel. For $50 offer a comfortable double with the conditioner, a mini-kitchen, a soft corner and a breakfast. Hotel "Амбасадори" **** (street Shavteli, 13 has very much liked outwardly; bodies: +995 32 920403, +995 32 932640) on quay, but there the double begin from $120. For 100 near to prospectus Rustaveli it is possible to choose "Primaveru" **** (street Kuchishvili, 8; bodies: +995 32 251146). Other checked up hotels have appeared not only the expensive, but also is far from the centre that is why mentions are not worthy. As to restaurants, except mentioned «Dzveli sahli» (street Quay 3; bodies: 92 34 97), I recommend also "Gorgasali" around the Maidan (street Abanos, 3/8; bodies: +995 32 755959) in which George Bush overate hinkali. « Lost paradise »(street Br. Kakabadze, 2; bodies: +995 32 999207) in an end face of the House of cinema on prospectus Rustaveli, issued in style of an old kind Georgian cinema - it is picturesque and inexpensive. A worthy European cuisine"Marco Polo"(offers avenue Rustaveli, 44; bodies: +995 32 935383).


Georgia extreme
Shatili-Telavi-Tsinandali

Next two days were the heaviest for all trip. Both the car, and the driver, and passengers – all have passed the present "fighting" christening mountains.

If wish to have time to go for one day from Tbilisi in Hevsureti and to return back, to leave it is necessary as soon as possible. We could start only in 10 mornings about what then have strongly regretted. The road occupies 6 hours one way. The most part from 150 km of a way to have to overcome almost to the touch, with average speed about 20 km/h. It is possible to forget about asphalt, it for a long time already has washed off, and here and there was never. Places of landslips are filled up by a large cobble-stone, on road traces of fresh rockfalls are continually visible, deep and crude koleistaja the first coat on pass is washed strongly away, and often it is necessary to pass literally in 30 sm from bottomless breakage. Here where rulit a full drive and a hill-climbing gear! It is drizzling. The main thing that the downpour has not gone unpredictable here, and that it is possible to appear in general cut off from a civilisation. The mobile communication here is not present, and counter transport has got to us only few times.

But what magnificent kinds around! The first part of a route passes on the Military-Georgian road. A fork at dazzling-azure water basin ZHinvali on which coast there is terrible monastery-fortress Ananuri. Further us accompany inimitable mountain landscapes with paths of glaciers among the greens, roaring giant falls, ruins of lonely towers at tops, the mysterious not completed tunnels of the enormous sizes and the bridges conducting in anywhere. Occurrence of our silvery car calls the big interest in rare settlements. Only the proud horseman on a harmonous racer as the present Dzhigit, shows indifference full of advantage. Now we is valid on caucasus.

And here medieval SHatili – capital Hevsureti. Village-fortress. Each house – a stronghold. It is considered Even more picturesque the next village Mutso which has served by a prototype rustavelivskoj of a fortress of harm Kadzheti, but there we to reach already precisely we are not in time. However, and SHatili inspires respect for medieval builders. Obviously, enemies at hevsurov in an antiquity was much. And now the place is difficult to name quiet – the Chechen border of all in several kilometres from here. Speak, shooting from a Russian side is audible often, but at local with Chechens the world and full mutual understanding. After all Georgia under own initiative has opened the Pankissky gorge for refugees.

In a fortress now constantly there live two families, in one house even cook beer. Other inhabitants have settled out from a historical monument in more modern houses at Councils. One of them meets us on entrance in SHatili at the house on which the national colours and a firm logo «GET TRAVEL» is hung out. The owner earns additionally on «green tourism» – leads excursions, will organise feeding, hands over rooms for visitors. We receive for 30 chests of a conductor and a nourishing dinner after returning from excursion. A traditional dish – a mountain trout. It here present, very small and improbably gentle. Two ten zharennyh small fishes quickly remove from the big frying pan to our stomachs. From chachi politely we refuse – at us ahead still a difficult way back.

It is raining. The mountain first coat becomes wet and slippery. We creep all above and above. It seems, already we rest heads against clouds. The engine chokes with not so qualitative fuel and apparent defect of oxygen. At last, pass the Bear cross – 2700 m above sea level. Turn, and … Vau! Delight exclamation is pulled out at us simultaneously. From pass the fantastic panorama of the mountains covered by black clouds, brightly opens and contrastly illuminated by the sun through otverzshiesja is direct before us heavens. Mountain ridges seem drawn on huge canvases. Light flows on them fantastic beams. It seems, the voice divine … right now will be distributed we Stand, we look as if drunk eyes, hardly we breathe discharged cold air. Yes, only for the sake of it it was necessary to overcome all difficulties of travel.

From thought to reach by the night to Telavi it was necessary to refuse. To go from ZHinvali through Ahmet to us categorically did not recommend talkative zapravshchiki on "LUKOIL". And I any more did not feel in myself forces to storm new passes. Have returned to Tbilisi and have spent the night in one of roadside motels on entrance. The waitress who at 2 o'clock in the morning has for some reason decided to bring to us in numbers the breakfast reserved for the morning became a hit point of day. Falling asleep, I thought, that the most terrible already behind. Further after all we go in civilised Kahetiju. As I was mistaken …

After mountains the car presses for sinks. Basically, problems with this service in Georgia are not present. One confuses – from the equipment and chemicals washermen usually have only a following set: "Kerher", an autoshampoo bottle, a bast, a rag. Sometimes a vacuum cleaner. For removal of insects, deducing of bitumen stains, clearing of glasses, natirki plastic etc. it is necessary to carry means with itself and to learn boys them to use. Especially I advise well to be reserved by antibitumen – me of one ballonchika on all car has not sufficed. But have somehow washed. If I knew, that will be ahead …

It was ahead expensive. Advisers in Tbilisi have prompted, that is the shortest in Telavi to go through Gombori. Basically, it was clear and on a map. Do not believe maps in Georgia! While there there are only two roads – М1 Tbilisi-Poti and М2 along the Black Sea coast. In all other settlements it is possible to reach somehow only from these basic lines. Minor roads on which it would be possible to girdle a route, now in Georgia are not present.

Congress from highway М5 aside Gombori already should guard. The road good, and is few transport. Soon new asphalt has ended, has gone broken prosyolok. Good, to us not to get used. On a fork in village it is asked the passer-by, in what party on Telavi. He strange looks at us and advises to come back to a line. But we after all already have halfway driven! The road becomes even worse. On suburb Gombori just in case we ask any woman, whether it is possible to drive here through pass. Mysteriously answers, that small cars pass. A pier, try. As a last resort, will take a walk on mountains a little bit, will admire our beauty and will return. «Is not present, and drive we can»? Sighs: « With the divine help will drive »… It not so cheerfully. Behind village the road meets terrible ruts and magnificent kolejami on liftings where without ceremony it is possible to sit down on a belly. Somewhere asphalt has descended with selju, the failure somewhere was formed. It seems, that is worse already there is no place, but each next obstacle forces silently ohat. The driver of the counter car on our question on the further passableness of road, after fluent survey of our vehicle, inspires:« your wheelbarrow will pass ». You look, and the truth passes. Here already and the pass is seen … Bats! The road has ended – a landslip. No thoroughfare. I recollect, that 500 metres saw a first coat leaving abruptly upwards back. Therefrom mad"Field"quickly goes down. Its crew advises further not to be put:« There is no there a road »! But after all there was any unfortunate kilometre! Time"Field"has passed …

I will long recollect this kilometre. The storm of each next obstacle accompanied by an obligatory exit from the car and attentive survey of district. Liftings under 30 % when before a cowl the sky is visible only, and on each side – abrupt slopes. The wheels blocked by antirecoil at the decayed engine when the wheelbarrow quietly slides off downwards, forward does not pull, and it is better not to look back. Passengers had to go on foot, correcting on a course a movement direction. But above it was possible to exhale with simplification, to look round and estimate the made.

At once behind pass asphalt has begun. There there was a huge herd of cows which, judging by a manure layer, is based on this place constantly. To leave from road the large horned had no the slightest desire. It was already the sneer. Have saved 80 km, but time have spent three times more than if 170 km on the basic line through Gurdzhaani have driven. Abydna …

After gone through in a way, native land Mimino so the acquaintance on cult cinema, even somehow has a little bit disappointed. Obviously, small town Telavi in itself cosy enough and pleasant, but only any critical weight of delight, as on pass now could encourage the Bear cross. The Telavsky fortress with palace Batonistsihe (XVII) such exclusive impression has not made. The palace kahetinskogo tsar Iraklija II in the Persian style looks very modestly. However, it is the unique saved imperial palace in territory of Georgia. The local picture gallery can please with several modest masterpieces unless very big judges of painting. Impress only kinds on the Alazansky valley behind which from horizon to horizon the enormous wall of the Big caucasus with clouds on tops is stretched. Very much it would be desirable to visit huge strengthened 74-metre temple Alaverdi with which connect well-known Georgian "alaverdy", monastery Ikalto with academy in which studied SHota Rustaveli, ancient fortress Bochorma it is high in mountains, but, alas, it is not enough precious time. It was necessary to gad on mountains, trying to discover «short roads» less.

At us wine round on Kahetii for today is planned! On suburb Telavi it is found out a factory checkpoint «Teliani Valley». The security guard assures, that excursions here do not spend. It is necessary to be called as group of journalists which terribly wish to tell at itself in Ukraine about the best stamp of Georgian wines. However, the truth share in this small cunning is. We really very much respect this stamp and really we are going to about it to tell in the report.

I tell. Factory the newest, the most powerful and the advanced in Georgia. The fault lets out in a year of 3 million bottles excellent kahetinskogo. Soon manufacture should increase twice. In a small museum ancient tools of winemaking and a modest collection of a firm product are presented. As well as the majority of other local enterprises, factory makes only ordinary wine without special endurance which is not stored long – 5-6 years a maximum. The raw materials are used as local, and from other regions of Georgia. For example, the most unique Georgian grapes from small village Hvanchkara in region Racha transform here into a divine semisweet drink of amazing colour and original taste. Originality costs much and in the homeland – about $15 for a bottle. Knowing, what modest crops collect in Hvanchkare, it is possible to laugh only in any domestic supermarket, examining ten stamps so-called "Hvanchkary" in cost from $6.

Wines during a trip we have tried much. Such impression, that the wine is done by each family in the country. In different regions the grades and features of manufacture. Accordingly, wine of the western areas differs ease and freshness of taste. In Kahetii the traditional drink turns out heavier, fragrant and with a difficult bouquet. To buy on test it is possible on flood in many court yard directly on a line. At restaurants also it is the most interesting to reserve house wine of the given region, which each institution respecting buys from the checked up people (bottle and in Ukraine it is full). However, popular remains also traditional chacha (something like a lung brendi from grape spirit), and Georgians do not disdain vodka. For «Nemiroff», as they say, all over the world! But drunk in the street you will meet seldom. Alcohol at the Georgian, apparently, in blood – to culture of consumption accustom since the childhood. Not surprisingly, after all on one of versions wine have invented here more 8 thousand years ago. Possibly, international word "wine" has occurred from Georgian "gvino".

The oldest in the country the wine factory is in village Tsinandali nearby to Telavi. To put a traditional handicraft work on an industrial basis to the first in the country the great Georgian poet and public figure Alexander Chavchavadze has solved. It has put in pawn cellars in 1886 directly in picturesque French park of own private residence. Person Chavchavadze was not ordinary even in scales of all Russian empire. Its visitors and personal friends were Pushkin and Lermontov, and Griboedov married his daughter Nina and last years lives has spent in TSinandali. In a palace museum CHavchavadze now works, interiors, furniture and personal things were saved. For visiting with tasting wine vaults where it is stored 16 thousand bottles also are opened, since 1814 the Territory of park with wings-summer residences was until recently the state residence (here liked to have a rest SHevardnadze), and now in cases popular hotels function. Saakashvili is a place does not like, so it is possible to remove easily even presidential number! The idea to privatise a complex is not realised yet. Factory "Цинандали" with cellars remains the only thing in the country the state winery. The manufacture volume is now minimum, unique vintage wines "TSinandali" and "Saperavi" can be got only at factory till 15-20 chests for a bottle. An excellent souvenir!

Service. In Hevsureti as it was already marked, it is possible to find a lodging for the night in gesthauze on entrance in SHatili. The unpretentious hotel is in centre Telavi. But here we recommend to stop in minihotel "Телиани" (Telavi, the Tbilisi road, 3; bodies: +995 99 363600) at factory «Teliani Valley». Smart numbers on $50 are issued in style of different wine brands. Cost includes excursion on factory with tasting. As alternative one of hotel "Цинандали" cases can serve at manor Chavchavadze (with. TSinandali), but we and did not manage to find out their phones.


Georgia resort
Borzhomi-Vardzija-Batumi

It is time to come back to the West. By the evening we have time to reach resort Borzhomi. Vsemirnoizvestnyj the balneology centre is located in Borzhomsky gorge of Small caucasus at height of 800-1000 m. During Soviet times here there was a set of sanatoria and bases of rest. Cases-vysotki also are now visible everywhere, but their kind is terrible. Almost all have been occupied in the beginning 90 refugees who have left after itself the naked smoked walls. The life glimmers in the central part, around park of mineral waters. Many houses are converted under private minihotels, not numerous cafes late work, the disco rattles. On the sly appear also big modern turkompleksy. A park zone to friendly visit of the Ukrainian president to 2005 (of what the memorial bench reminds) a little podremontirovali, have arranged night illumination, have opened some attractions, restoration of historical buildings and aquapark building has begun. On the top plateau it is possible to rise on a rope-way and to survey a picturesque kind on all gorge. But the prices remain are absolutely not adequate to service level. More cheaply, than for 100 chests ($60), even the most modest double room with conveniences to find it is impossible. Thus surrounding validity even for the big money will especially not please. Trukavets after that it seems the present Baden-Baden.

On a lodging for the night it is better to stop in Likani. In 1892 after Borzhom became the property of an imperial surname, Nikolay Romanov has constructed here a delightful kind a palace with smart park. During Soviet times it became a museum, and now is summer president residence of Georgia. Access have inside closed, but around it is possible to walk and enjoy easy picturesque kinds on mountains, small river and fortress Petristsihe at the next top. Other part of park with bjuvetami, old private residences and new buildings is used as sanatorium. Here it is beautiful, pure and quiet. The best place for short rest and tasting of the well-known mineral water to think up difficultly. And if Borzhomi, together with next mounting skiing resort Bakuriani, will win the tender for carrying out winter Олимпиады-2014, here it will be possible to expect the present tourist and building boom.

Service. Hotels in Borzhomi very expensive. Sanatorium "Ликани" (street Mesheti, 16; bodies: +995 367 23080) offers standard double rooms on 120 chests, junior suites on 150, lux on 170. Also we recommend a new improving complex «Borzhomsky gorge» (street Rustaveli, 107а; bodies: +995 367 23072, +995 99 323247) near to the centre, with the European level of service and the prices from $60 for dablrum. Hotel "Боржоми" (street Tsminda Nino, 3 can be alternative; bodies: +995 267 21728, 23169) almost in the centre where for the double ask 100 chests.

From Borzhomi it is necessary to go in Vardziju, that to 70 km towards Turkish border. To Ahaltsihe we reach easily, and here from turn on Aspindzu the bad road which reconstruction have only just started dorozhniki begins. There are terrible stony sites, speed sharply falls, the surrounding landscape starts to remind the Afghani. The next fork at fortress Hertvisi (XII century). Looks very impressively and it is tempting, but to visit her it is solved on a return way if there will be time.

At last, on a high rock on the right, from an opposite side of the Hen (yes-yes, from here it through Burn flows in Tbilisi), we see a huge ant hill. Cave monastery Vardzija has been cut in rocks in 1156-1205 under the order of tsar George III for protection of southwest boundaries of Georgia. Over the building termination his daughter – legendary tsarina Tamar supervised. Only having approached more close, you understand, what this grandiose construction. Especially if to consider, that the third part of an initial complex in which once simultaneously could take places to 50 thousand persons was saved only. Seeming have published minks appear huge caves. Here there are churches, inhabited cells, trapeznye, baths, pantries, libraries and set of other cave premises. The underground source completely providing with water all brotherhood till now exudes. However to destination the fortress has served less than hundred years. After the big earthquake the rock has failed together with mostly caves and their inhabitants. However, monks here have lodged recently again. Tourists welcome and at all do not pay attention to clothes unseemly to a sacred place.

On walls of cave Uspensky church frescos with George's image III and tsarinas Tamaras were saved. On one of versions, here she also is buried. That vandals could not find out a tomb, from Tbilisi 8 funeral processions have gone to different doomsday at once. They have arrived both in Gelati, and in Vardziju. However scientists tend to thought, that the general favourite of the Georgian people has found rest on the sacred Jerusalem earth. There, in eight steps from a temple of Coffin gospodnja, there is a Georgian church of the Sacred Cross. In it the ingenious admirer of tsarina Shota Rustaveli is buried. The author well-known «the Hero in tigrovoj to a skin» was the treasurer at Tamara's court yard. The most devoted colleague the tsarina has sent to Jerusalem to restore the destroyed Georgian temple. It is logical to assume, what exactly there she and itself has wished upokoitsja.

The map specifies in existence of short road between Ahaltsihe and Batumi. There there passes the well-known Way of tsarina Tamaras through all Adzhariju: with arch stone bridges, fortresses and monasteries. Guides at an exit start to discuss this route actively. Code words "pass" sound and «the road is not present». Is not present? No! It is more to test destiny we not begin. Business approaches by the evening, and very much it would be desirable to reach easy till the night at coast. We decide to come back in Borzhomi and to do the big hook through Kutaisi. 400 km against 250, but are confident and predicted.

Night driving in Georgia especially irritates. In general, and in the afternoon often it is necessary to strain. The biggest harm are cows and a pig. The last – in wooden "collars"-triangles that did not get into kitchen gardens. In the rest go anywhere small herds or one by one, more often without supervision. Especially like to be grazed on roadsides of roads, constantly passing on the one hand on another, or simply having a rest under the sun it is direct on asphalt. Driving turns to a slalom. Probably, in Georgia there is no car which would not meet with buryonkoj or a pig is closer".

Probably, since Soviet times the respect for the big and powerful cars here was saved. Earlier it were "Volga". Now the most popular stamps – "Mercedes" and the BMW. On the second place in a rating of popularity of "Opel". Basically, old. Well-founded Georgians prefer actual here off-road cars – "Nissany" and "Tojoty". "subaru" have not met never! By the way, it means, that in case of what, there could be big problems with service. Our newcomer "Forester" everywhere involved in itself special attention so tried to hide it far away from extraneous eyes on the closed protected parkings. As small thefts in the poor country occur still quite often. Without ceremony in the middle it is white day yard keepers can to drag off, to braid mirrors or to remove caps from wheels.

To PDD Georgians concern as unessential formality. Seldom use indexes of turns, overtake anywhere, easy go under signs «Entrance it is forbidden». The traffic on roads any chaotic. Nobody strains movement in one strip. Often go small small groups, constantly being reconstructed from a number abreast. Passing is usually accompanied by a signal of a horn and a headlight of headlights. In general, a sound signal and a headlight use constantly in any situations. Amazes quantity "one-eyed" at night – on bulbs obviously save. But a high-speed mode break seldom and slightly. Mountain roads also do not allow to be dispersed especially. And patrols do not doze.

The police is a pride of Georgia. In total for two years the new power has managed to transform the most corrupted service in the country in the sample of decency and incorruptibility. Old department have dispersed completely. On its place have created new service of the European sample, having invited experts from France. Staff have reduced in 10 times, each applicant for epaulets has passed rigid selection. Policemen were provided with the advanced technics and distances huge, to the Georgian measures, with salaries – from 300 to 600 dollars. They both look presentably, and feel elite. Patrol "Trade winds" and "Dzhetty" scurry about everywhere on the basic lines, "Fields" – on minor roads. Regularly fine infringers (a radar is established directly in cars and fix speed in movement). Show presence. From it it is somehow quiet on a shower. Always you know, that is to whom to address with any problem.

To find at night in Batumi two free numbers in good hotel is a problem. We approach with a question on the patrol gleaming majachkami at a roadside. A short exchange of joyful greetings, and we already follow police car from one hotel to another. Places anywhere are not present. Then sociable policeman Dato communicates on a portable radio set with other patrols with the request to check up all hotels in their zones of responsibility. In 10 minutes encouraging news – is two numbers in one of hotels in Kvariati, that near to Turkish border. Us hand to other patrol and accompany directly to hotel. Wish pleasant rest and leave. Imagine a situation how at night in Yalta four Georgian ask GAI patrol to find it good hotel? From bo j vono …

At last we on the sea! Policemen have recommended us an excellent place. Resort settlements Gonio, Kvariati and Sarpi to the south from Batumi are considered elite thanks to beautiful landscapes and the cleanest sea. To the people on wide galechnyh beaches it is not a lot of even in season peak – chaise lounges freely take places in one number along a coastal line. There and then beskonechnyaja a chain of round-the-clock cafes-bungalows. Small private hotels usually have an exit to the sea, or stand through road. First two days we have lived in the second line, have not looked round yet on the parties and have not found out the cosy hotel "Квариати" arranged as the Turkish: two - three-storyed cases, an internal court yard with palm trees, an exit directly on a beach, restaurant with a view of the sea etc. the Basic contingent – well-founded emigrants and «new Armenians» on the big jeeps. We "Forester" on a close parking near to them looked very modestly. A little strained only absence of the conditioner (is only in lux) and balconies through passage when neighbours tusujutsja it is literally at you before windows. Well, it is trifles. But through road the whole restaurant complex, where is both ethnic cuisine, and European (for those who has got tired from hachapuri), and a night bar with billiards.

Only here, in Adzharii, we could take pleasure in an amazing dish which is called «hachapuri adzharuli», i.e. on-adzharski. Traditional flat cakes from the test with a cheese stuffing prepare in each region in own way. Is hachapuri imeretinskie, megrelskie, kartlijskie etc. If it is fair, we have not noticed a special difference. A flat cake with hot suluguni inside, and all. But here adzharskie it is simple obedenie! Them bake in special furnaces opened – lodochkoj, inside put hot cheese, from above butter and crude egg. All should be mixed it with a grain crumb directly in "lodochke" and bystrenko is, while gorjachenkie. Only adzharskie hachapuri submit individually, the others usually cut for the portion for the whole company.

Other hits of ethnic cuisine: hinkali (the big pelmeni with a spicy meat stuffing), satsivi (the chicken in nut sauce), a chicken of tobacco (fried under a press), cheese suluguni in every possible ipostasjah (usual, smoked, fried). Shish kebabs from usual or smoked meat prepare not on skewers as it is accepted at us, and in special ceramic frying pans more often. To them sweet-sour plam sauce tkemali without fail moves. Meat without a plate of greens with an obligatory coriander and juicy seasoned salad with sweet, fleshy Georgian tomatoes cannot manage. Plus the softest unleavened wheat cake. However, frankly speaking, the Georgian shish kebab has not made impression. Tried everywhere, but and there was a sensation, that at us is more tasty. Probably, all business in meat. The Georgian cows and pigs differ podzharostju and «a sports constitution». Jump on rocks, eat a pasture at roads. Here and result. However, Georgians admit often, that Armenians prepare a shish kebab better. I would carry this statement to all meat dishes, including my liked ljulja-kebab. But the Georgian lemonades precisely out of competition. That "Tarhun" – taste of the childhood! It is especially good, which stamps "Nataktari". And here classical "Borzhomi" Georgians for some reason prefer similar water on medical properties "Nabeglavi". Beer? Too is, in particular factory "Казбеги". Who drinks "Obolon", it is pleasant to that. I prefer softer grades.

In general, in Georgia it is accepted to go to restaurant the whole families, or the big companies. A couple behind a little table – a rarity. In institutions in national style reserve not individually, and on a table – at once on all. Accordingly, someone pays too one. Attempt to pay off separately calls a smile and the comment: «And, a German bill». By the way, open space for a cheating – the broadest. Have brought the bill, and there all in a Georgian way. podi, check up … However as we have noticed, really use a language barrier in the mercenary purposes only on the big resorts. In usual places even tip to give not always it is possible. Really take offence! We after all visitors and so the favour we do, that money for meal pay, and service is switched usually on in the bill.

On resort Kobuleti – the full notice. All Georgians with whom we communicated, have a rest there as melkogalechnyj a beach and it is inexpensive. Some kilometres of coastal territory are built up by mad quantity of small and average cottages, in the majority from which hand over rooms, bars and shops are placed. In the centre restore from ruins the big sanatorium. Nearby – park of attractions to which will soon attach also an aquapark. In Ureki – unique magnetic sand on beaches, here come on treatment. On cape Verde – the rocky wild beaches, here many sunbathe the naked. Along all coast – the smart, marked, shined line. But already on an entrance heavy, hot humidity is felt. The car becomes covered by a condensate. Yard keepers it is necessary to switch on without a rain! Not everyone will accept such climate for rest.

Service. In Batumi hotel "Marina" (street Himshiashvili, 10 has seemed to the best; bodies: +995 99 118000). It is located in a resort zone, near to Seaside park. It is arranged as Turkish hotels «all in one». The full complex of resort services and magnificent European service offer all for 80 chests for two! It is not surprising, that places need to be reserved very much in advance. In the centre, near to quay, decent hotel "Меркурий" (street Chavchavdze, 10/12 has attracted; bodies: +995 222 31401) on 70 chests for double, but it is far from beaches (metres 500). In Kvariati at once have paid attention to minihotel "Martini" (bodies: +995 99 556464, 77 556464) through road from the sea, but with a restaurant complex and pool. Have decided to look for 120 chests for something more cosy. Hotel "Siesta" nearby (bodies: +995 93 613818) with numbers from 100 chests it is good everything, except absence of the conditioner and constant problems with santehnikoj. At last, hotel "Квариати" described above (+995 99 154509). One of the best offers to the south from Batumi, though also not cheap – from 120 chests for double.

Last day of children on a resort. Tomorrow at them the plane from Tbilisi, and we remain to be dried on the sun for a week, to the following ferry. We will not lose time, for us waits Batum!

The Georgian Yalta half-and-half with Odessa. With the first it is made related by strongly pronounced resort character, with the second – the big port, moreover and with the petroterminal extending after district characteristic "aromas". The quay with podretushirovannymi facades of buildings, palm trees and parking of boats does not call special emotions. In the heart of quarters ragged small houses with rather dirty little shops on the ground floors create colour which it is difficult to name the attractive. It is more pleasant to walk on Parkway as name here Seaside park with the big pond where in the evenings collects crowds of gapers dancing svetomuzykalnyj a fountain. One more beats directly from a roadway on the central area, kiddies with pleasure run under powerful streams. In general, is better a city looks in the evening when switch on illumination. Modest in the afternoon of a building take a majestic form of palaces. Architectural lacks are concealed. Streets are filled with crowds having a rest. Motley them to name it is impossible – primary colour of clothes black. Even on weddings almost everything, except the bride, in the black!

In vicinities it is necessary to visit some sights. In Gonio the antique fortress with 18 towers which existed in V century BC Here was saved the eastern frontier of Roman empire lay. In village Tsihisdziri near Kobuleti it is possible to find ruins of a fortress of Peter of VI century in an environment of vineyards. Steam of hours should be spent in a botanical garden around cape Verde. It not such well-groomed as, for example, Nikitsky in Crimea, but unique plants here, speak, much more. And dog nursery Abashidze in Kahaberi I recommend to visit necessarily not only to fans kinologii. Magnificent Caucasians – descendants well-known Basmacha, after flight of disgraced leader Adzharii to Moscow, became national property. Excursion to us have spent absolutely free of charge. Impressions unforgettable!

The high-speed boat a scalpel cuts waves. The wind beats in the person, pulls out hair and forces to choke with delight. After sea walk and a farewell supper on quay we leave our companions. Judicious Dimka imperceptibly became the close friend. After farewell embraces with talkative and restless Sergey at Ksjuhi on tear eyes. At them ahead one more walk on Tbilisi and the plane. At us – some beach days, cargo ferry in the company of one more pair Poles, 6-hour hassle in Ilyichevsk and native road home. In Kiev there will be a joyful meeting, the big reception at us on a summer residence, tasting of the wines brought with self, an exchange of photos and long conversations with infinite memoirs. And eyes Dzhumbera in cafe at the Gold gate, listening to our enthusiastic story about its native Zugdidi. The head of a society "Aragvi" was our imperceptible and irreplaceable guardian angel throughout all trip. I believe, that in September it all the same can organise the automobile race and see the new-old Native land for the first time for 13 years. And towards to Kiev there will go children from Zugdidi, Kutaisi, Tbilisi and other cities to which we promise as much as possible the warm reception, always full tables and the most beautiful places of native Ukraine.