"Pioneer" at job – on locks of near Podolia

I do not know as you, and I was admired always with medieval strongholds. Three ten saved locks and innumerable quantity of ruins make powerful tourist potential of Ukraine. Who did not hear about Kamentse-Podolsk and Hotine, mukachevskom Palanke, Oleskom the lock on Lvovshchine? Interestingly, but it is far, especially for those who has not got used to moving lasting many hours on hundreds kilometres. But to familiarise with several typical masterpieces of defensive architecture of Ukraine, it is not obligatory to plan long trips on Galichina or Zakarpatju. They can be found in limits only 300 km from Kiev, that complete with several more sights will make the sated excursion program on one-two day off.

In a trip by a northeast part of Khmelnitskiy area, with the account of possible surprises of winter roads and impassability, we have gone on already become familiar on the Ukrainian roads srednerazmernom off-road car Nissan Pathfinder which was kindly given for test drive by official dealer Nissan in Ukraine «Ky avto» at the desire of the Ukrainian edition of the newspaper "Autorevue". The car – by sight big and brutalnaja – nevertheless concerns a segment of crossovers as the suspension bracket independent and blocking in transmission is not enough. We should check up in tourist business its 2,5-litre turbodiesel, comfort level on distant trips at the maximum complete set for this engine, including the five-step automatic machine, and also fitness to winter Ukrainian roads and easy impassability.

Two road bags – modest luggage of four travellers – disappear in depths of an immense 515-litre luggage carrier. The third row of seats is as superfluous difficult. Only loading height velikovata, though the car and not the greatest in the class. Accordingly, too it is necessary to look at other participants of traffic haughtily through seeming narrowish embrasures of glasses. Pathfinder allows to feel for moderate money for road on a level with owners of expensive full-size off-road cars. However, we will not wait too many from the car positioned by the manufacturer as the family versatile person.

Changeable weather with constant fluctuations from plus to a minus has not spared a cloth of the Zhitomir line. Large holes, the truth, no, and on small hollows it is possible not to pay attention thanking to the extent of rigid, but a comfortable suspension bracket. To 130 km/h the car behaves on a line confidently, on the big speeds prodavlivanie air as the massive case starts to be felt physically – parusnost very big. The high-speed mode is better for observing, especially in the winter. And the car inspection suits ambushes not only in settlements. It is obligatory to dump speed follows in Kocherove – there there was unique from Kiev to Zhitomir a stationary post of GAI. The patrolman traditionally costs directly on dividing, postrelivaja a radar in both parties. And our tradition – a cup of coffee and a portion of fritters in all extending small restaurant "Фильварок", that at once for Korostyshevom.

To get on starokonstantinovskoe a direction, Zhitomir should be passed through the close centre under indexes on CHudnov and Ljubar. Already through 20 km – the first excursion stop.

The settlement Deneshi is well familiar to those who seriously takes a great interest in rock-climbing. For the trainings climbers have chosen picturesque granite rocks on coast of small river the Black grouse in territory of local sanatorium. In 3 km the Trigorsky monastery of 1575 from here is located. Us interests well appreciable ruins from a line. We turn off on the bridge and further more to the left on a first coat. Snow deep and almost not unrolled – here Pathfinder should justify the name which is translated from English as "pioneer" or "pathfinder". By means of the round selector of types of a drive I will involve all vnedorozhnyj an arsenal – compulsory blocking of interaxal differential and the lowered number of transfers. podrykivaja a diesel engine, zverjuga confidently cuts a track in the frozen together ice crust all four "paws".

Before us – everything, that remains from there is no time a rich palace of a family well-known saharozavodchikov and patrons of art Tereshchenko. Their possession have been scattered across all Ukraine, everywhere they built the industrial enterprises, magnificent manors, and also churches, schools, hospitals. Deneshi in XIX century were the present industrial centre. It is not surprising, that owners have arranged nearby and the next residence. Unfortunately, the Soviet power has not estimated wonderful creation of the architect Dutch. The Neorenaissance palace costs in ruins, drawing of attention passing a lonely tower. The architectural monument yet has not received attention of the authorities.

The opposite impression of a condition of the State historical and cultural reserve "Samchiki" is on an entrance to Starokonstantinovu. The accurate palace gajsinskogo heads Peter Chechelja with picturesque park over a pond was saved simply remarkably. At an input we are met by the young man presented by the deputy director of reserve. Rejoicing to rare visitors, leads the improvised excursion on the restored halls which with taste were made out almost three hundred years ago by Italian designer Tsaglano. Pride of reserve – the Japanese room in rare orientalnom style. On a question, whether the truth, that lists belong Vrubel's to brush, our guide only smiles – he knows that, what is it only a legend, but very tempting for credulous tourists. Over attendance increase here work seriously – co-operate with neighbouring sanatoria, prepare own page on the Internet. Even it is awkward to pay for visiting official 2 grn. The blessing, is a special box where it is possible to throw the additional sum «on development».

Line М20 has the status main, but congestion low. However, comfortable driving on it you will not name. Road narrow, strongly winding, wavy, bumpy. The suspension bracket fulfils roughnesses, almost not passing blows on a body, but the swing is felt. Back passengers extol weakening convenience not too ergonomic by sight armchairs, and in bends start to rush about on salon, groping hand-rail over doors, ask to brake more strongly on turns. To dialogue with them the measured roar of a turbodiesel almost does not stir – a noise isolation at height. As well as job of separate climatic installation – all it is warm and cosy equal so, how much it would be desirable. The pacification is promoted by deep sounding of powerful audiosystem BOSE. Under the incendiary Georgian melodies casting pleasant memoirs on summer travel to caucasus, we drive in Starokonstantinov.

Service. Last year in a city private minihotel "SN" (the lane 9 Martha, 2/2 has opened; bodies: (03854) 33-553), instantly having outridden on service level old regional hotel "Случ". But to have supper in a city still there is no place. We recommend to stop vtryohzvyozdochnom hotel "»áÓáñ¿ß" (Grushevsky's street, 72; bodies: (03855) 22-735, 22-122), that in the next Krasilov. Except comfortable numbers from 160 grn. Here there is also a good restaurant.

The picturesque district with a rich historical heritage strongly concedes recently on economic development to the next ordinary-looking Krasilov. To find in a city a car wash – the big problem. The most expensive restaurant reminds the Kiev snack bars somewhere on suburbs. Around a dirt, the potholes, the lop-sided houses-sheds. We will better plunge into history.

At first annalistic Kobut, then landowner Kolishchenets while in 1561 these places have not sunk down in soul to the well-known prince Konstantin Ostrozhskomu. It has named the name a new city on merge Sluchi to small river Ikopot. Not too impressive by the form the lock Ostrozhsky has appeared a strong nutlet on the predatory way of Tatars – it did not manage to be taken by storm never. Time has appeared more persevering enemy, having finished a stronghold to a pitiable condition. The restoration combined with archeological excavations, has begun rather recently. Now the defensive tower is again topped by "crown", the family Troitsk church is opened for visiting, on the sly there is a restoration of the main palace case.

From here the high square tower of a Dominican monastery entering once in system of city strengthenings is well visible. Here this symbol of a city appreciable from everywhere very much requires care of the restorer. Well, at least, in overlapping!

In the summer zamkovyj the cape turns to a beach zone. The quay is decorated fantasmagorichnaja by a sculptural composition from metal, judging by a trident, representing the mad Neptune rushing in a vehicle. Very similar on avant-garde sculptures of a fountain of Stravinsky near Pompidou's Parisian centre. It is possible to send fans of industrial architecture to a visible building of a mill of the beginning of the XX-th century on other coast. And the saved wings and gate of a manor of Pototskys can interest in Antoninas, that in 30 km to the West judges of farmstead building.

In Khmelnitskiy we get along toward evening. The regional centre which still was hammered place proskurov of Kamenets-Podolsk province, does not differ hospitality – all decent hotels are occupied. However, to be late here and so the sense is not present. From sights it is possible to mention unless one of the ware markets largest in Ukraine, nicknamed in the people "Cloud". There is a foot street with old buildings, shops and vegetable marrows, some original monuments, a modern trading-entertaining complex in the centre … That's all. Well though in refuelling complexes there is no lack – qualitative winter diztoplivo sell on numerous brendovyh the gas station "KLO" and «WOG». To be fidgety it was necessary in searches rychazhka a drive ljuchka a tank a little, it was not found out yet, that it is locked and opens the central lock. However, the full 80-litre tank and so would suffice on all trip, after all the expense in a country mode, judging by indications of the onboard computer, gets out for 10 litres on 100 km very little.

To search for a lodging for the night we go in the country. The whole congestion of motelno-restaurant complexes it is found out in settlement Chervona Zirka on departure towards Vinnitsa. Speak, here specially carry visitors of a city on the best in vicinities of a carp in sour cream. Eclipse this dish in our eyes the iridescent trout with vegetables could only. Taste as the classic specific spoke.

Service. Places in the cosiest in a city and rather inexpensive (from 200 grn.) otelchike "Vick-Jean" (street Berezneva, 5/1; bodies: (0382) 72-9240) it is better to reserve in advance – here both restaurant, and a sauna, and other conveniences. Other private lodgings for the night are located far from the centre. However, and former Soviet hotels "Энеида" (street Theatrical, 8; bodies: (0382) 79-5932) and "Podolia" (street Shevchenko, 34; bodies: (0382) 76-5520, 76-2611) already have numbers reconstructed under the euro-standard (from 170 grn.). It is necessary to pay attention to "VETA'S" country complex (with. CHervona Zirka; bodies: (0382) 62-58-10) on 9 km of a Vinnitsa line, where also the prices low (160 grn. For double), and kitchen at restaurant the good. In a city it is recommended to visit the Stake "Klab" with billiards on street Kamenetsky.

Since morning us meets Medzhibozh, well-known to travellers thanks to a huge roadside complex with restaurant, hotel, a drugstore, shop and other necessary institutions in road. There is an ancient settlement on merge of small rivers Bugs and Buzhok, that on-staroslavjanski the God and the God means. That is, between gods – mezhibozh. A present transcription opoljachennaja, after all these earths, as well as all Podolia, many centuries were that near Poland, near Lithuania, under Speech pospolitoj together taken.

From Poles Korjatovichej we in the inheritance managed the grandiose lock of 1331 of construction. Its mighty advanced bastion amazes with the sizes on an entrance. Only having got inside, you understand, how a lot of job is necessary to restorers. Separate parts remain in ruins, to the palace case are just risen, but other fragments already please tourists. For example, it is possible to rise on wooden ladders on top of the Pentahedral tower – to examine vicinities. On zamkovuju church will soon set up while a dome standing nearby. Vaulted premises of a Carriage number where the Soviet sculptures led by a head komandante Che Guevaras are fallen down in a corner, prepare under restaurant. In the former barracks the expanded exposition of an ethnographic museum is opened – exhibits are collected on huts of neighbouring villages. The manager complains of a financing lack for this year, but very much with watchfulness concerns idea of privatisation of architectural monuments soaring at the highest levels. However, does not exclude, that is fast in the restored palace will open hotel. Approach this light time we can only the four grivnas for an input and more in ten from above for a parking in territory – courageous Pathfinder it is perfectly looked in a medieval knightly interior.

It is necessary to call in and in the centre of the village which are one of the most sacred places for Chassids. After all here, in a small synagogue, the founder of an orthodox current in Judaism Izrael Baal SHem Tov (Besht) is buried. In the autumn here, as well as in Umani, without ceremony it is possible to meet the whole groups of pilgrims in black hats and with side curls. The Jewish colour is supplemented with characteristic small houses of XIX century.

Vinnitsa line М12 favourably differs from starokonstantinovskoj in the width, quality of a covering, smaller quantity of settlements, but also the traffic here is more dense. To overtake waggons it is necessary more often. At quiet style of driving the diesel engine of "pathfinder" complete with an automatic box seems tupovatym – the car is dispersed very reluctantly, often touching transfers. The effect from kik-dauna unexpectedly powerful – the heavy car breaks «in gallop» so, that passengers simply presses into armchairs. The engine roars, the arrow of a tachometre rests against a red zone, vigorous movement by a wheel, and in 4-5 seconds the next lorry convoy remains behind.

Passing through district Letichev the lonely round tower of former Lithuanian fortress XIV-XVI of centuries meets. Later the rests of fortifications have switched on in ensemble of a defensive monastery of Dominicans with a strict Uspensky church. At a tower suffers chained in shackles Ustim Karmaljuk – the national hero is buried on this place. Tranzitnikam the small town is more known for the big fish market. In this place Southern Bug, merging with Vovkom, forms impressive enough water basin. Fishes there – multitudes! In every tenth court yard works private koptilnja. Various river gifts make rich assortment roadside bazarchika: kopchyonnye catfishes, pikes, white cupids, eels, crucians, sushyonnaja ram. Speak, even sell not less tons a day in the winter. And the next village Verbka specialises on mushrooms. We, passing, necessarily buy a jar marinaded and a bundle sushyonnyh white – quality always excellent!

The small corner can be cut off, having curtailed, not reaching Vinnitsa, on Hmelnik. Here people come to be treated – set of sanatoria carry out procedures on the basis of unique radonic waters. And we rise on a hill to the unusual lock-palace of XV century. From the river it looks as a classical medieval stronghold, but from the smart party – a typical palace in style of classicism. It is the latest extension erected in 1911-1915 for count Ksido. The Most outstanding octahedral tower, presumably, is a basis of a minaret of times of Turkish sovereignty. There the museum is arranged, to get in which to us it was not possible on an aetiology of the worker, and in the main case – the extremely budgetary hotel. Its condition simply terrifying – to spend the night in this lock it is not necessary, how it would be desirable to take a sip exotic.

Here and the old Jewish small town Berdichev sung in national folklore – last point of travel. On entrance from party Hmelnika admires impressiveness of a kind on a powerful monastery barefooted karmelitov XVI-XVII centuries. The majestic architectural complex with defensive walls and a church was saved fine, by miracle having gone through the Soviet persecutions on Greek-Catholics. Now here it is created Santuary (sacred storehouse) a wonder-working icon of Divine Mother Berdichevsky which has been consecrated and crowned personally by Pope John Paul II. Again we here, but by cannot drive. It is necessary to stop off, admire architecture, to think about eternal …

To Kiev we come back on a good line and in good mood. The trip almost 800 km has appeared in the general extent very interesting in connection with the sated program, easy because of short stages and comfortable thanks to a vehicle convenient in every respect. Pathfinder has proved to be as the good car for quiet distant travel with arrival in remote places. Fears concerning features vnedorozhnoj plantings were not justified – backs anybody were not ill, from road all members of crew felt vigorously. It is possible to consider as small lacks a nonfunctional armrest, the small and inconvenient two-section "glove compartment", full absence of ashtrays. But has pleased the economic engine, pleasant impressions of controllability, there is a confidence that it is possible to drive almost everywhere where has passed before other car. Last argument is especially important, if you are going to to become for yourselves the pioneer of little-known miracles of Ukraine.