Our Italy: three weeks on wheels

«Saw I their Italy on a map – a boot a boot, and all …»
G.Gorin, «the love Formula»

Xenia's birthday in Venice! So it is original to celebrate this holiday to us it was not necessary yet. Venice has been planned by me as the ending of three-week tour on Appeninsky peninsula which we have made in August. And with this city have appeared the brightest impressions though there we have reached already strongly got tired of long travel are connected. After all there was still grandiose Vienna, bohemian Nice, the Renaissance Florence, ancient Rome and picturesque Naples. And such quantity of the greatest works of art for once I yet did not see never. On one only renotation of all these Venus, Apollos, Madonnas and Geraklov one page has left not. The soul is full of emotions, the head cracks from impressions, tsifrovik bursts with photos, and the luggage carrier is hammered by souvenirs. These notes I start to write, prihlyobyvaja seagulls with a drop of Hungarian "Unique person" from new, already a liked, big cup with an inscription «Monaco».

Preparation

Further there was a purchase of atlases, maps and guidebooks to the basic planned places, studying of reports of colleagues, current diagnostics of the basic knots of the car ("Karizme" 2 years, 70 thousand run, a condition – close to ideal!) First-aid set replenishment (do not forget to be reserved by adhesive tapes – without callosities to the traveller in any way) and long gathering with firm intention to find room for all things in one suitcase and one bag. The big suitcase with things "just in case" should be arranged in a luggage carrier for a long time, and the bag with the most necessary was supposed to be dragged there-here on hotels. As hotels have been in advance paid by tourist agency, money for all the rest took on third nalichkoj, having divided half-and-half, and two thirds have laid down on a card. One more card with «NZ on a case of state of emergency» has been put by in a bag together with x-copies of all documents. Strangely enough, almost have forgotten nothing, except the German atlas of motorways of Europe – the biggest and the most necessary. Well, anything to lose the way in Europe it is not too simple. :)

In village Gadjukino rains …

Uzhgorod from Lvov have reached for 4 hours (from Kiev – 835 km, general time – 9.45). There at us the hotel accommodation "Atlant" (square Korjatovicha, 27 has been beforehand reserved; (0312) 61-40-95). In my opinion, now this best offer in Uzhgorod. It is located in the centre, at the beginning peshehodki. Quite cosy and modern, clean, with fair prices (from 90 to 210 grn. For number depending on conditions). Only a breakfast to reserve I do not recommend – on it obviously save. And the car can be parked only under windows in the street. Speak, the watchman watches all night long.

Evening walk on already familiar city it is combined with inspection of places of collective consumption of a foodstuff and drinkings of alcoholic drinks. In "Detsu" this time have not gone, were limited to the central part of a city. There, basically, all on a kind. Restaurant "Tortilla" (the street Korzo, 16) involves with a nice summer platform on peshehodke, is also a two-level hall. The menu rich and interesting, the average price of the basic dish – 15 grn. Only waiters strongly brake. The Mexican pub "Cactus" (street Korzo, 7) – a cult place of the local advanced youth. Original intererchik, the exotic menu (even the bull eggs!), even more reasonable prices. And for a high-grade supper the big company with shashlychkami under vodka it is possible to choose a summer terrace on a roof of a complex "Dolphin" (the Kiev emb., 3) with a kind on small river. Small river so-so, rather dirty, but a place cosy and shish kebabs, speak, good.

On a visit at Gabsburgov

The first 120 km of quiet and measured driving on the Hungarian remote places through Nyiregyhaza to polgara. I get used not to hurry up and supervise anywhere speed on a mark somewhere in between 90 and 100 km/h. The majority adheres to the same style of driving though many and overtake. Before polgarom – departure on long-awaited avtoban. Here it is possible to be dispersed easy. But at first we call in on the first refuelling on a vignette.

avtobany in Hungary paid. For journey on them (except М5 - Budapest-Szeged - where a payment after delivery on barriers) it is necessary to get and stick a special ticket which is called Matrica Vignetta on a windscreen. The prices vary depending on a season, but in the summer the vignette for 4 days (the minimum term) costs about 5 euros. Do not try to go "hare"! On roads special vehicles which read out the information from tickets distantsionno are on duty! At us here have detained one infringer …

We with a vignette on lobovuhe it is proud have continued our way with fairly paid as much as possible resolved speed of 130 km/h. Well, Driving on western avtobanam – employment :) entertaining enough can kilometres on 10 more …. In difference from the Ukrainian roads where everyone tries to be more abruptly others, here all play other game: whether I will have time to concede the left strip earlier, than catching up me behind will have time to brake because of me. The left strip – only for passing. This unwritten rule. Even many "pilots" after each next passing consider as the debt though on pair seconds to return to the right strip before following passing. And anybody drives nobody from road the distant! In general, a headlight use extremely seldom (and at night too) in the afternoon. Unless only to warn zazevavshegosja or to "punish" for cutting or other unsuccessful maneuver. Even about police ambushes almost do not warn, especially in the Western Europe. :( And to concede a strip especially braking politely ask inclusion left povorotnika.

Having had a dinner on a line at roadside small restaurant (a complex dinner – 9 euros) traditional Hungarian guljashem bograshem, to the half sixth evening were already in Budapest. District from an East side is not present, it is necessary to go through a city. On an outcome behind the bridge through Danube has a little become puzzled and mistaken a direction – already second time on this place! As a result have called in almost in the centre and half an hour got out on freedom. 18.40 – border with Austria. Set of terminals. Separate turn for Hungarians, separately for other citizens of the European Union and separately for "Negroes". But, judging by numbers, pass everything where want. « »Frontier guards pass the, not looking at all in passports. Ours"trizubye"pogranets took with absolutely indifferent kind and has stamped without a uniform word. Also it is all? And to talk?! To ask where and what for we go, whether it is a lot of money with myself we carry. In a luggage carrier, eventually, to glance, suitcases raspotroshit. And suddenly there a bomb! :) Vigilance to watchmen of the Schengen zone obviously does not get. But it is pleasant. :)

And here we on Austrian to an autobath. Personally I have appeared for the first time in «deep Europe» and in this occasion I was overflowed with feeling of delight. :) The remarkable mood is promoted by picturesque landscapes – almost from the border on both parties of road the huge wind-driver power station was stretched. Huge propellers slowly rotate on very tall masts. Here so Austrian power «gain money from air». :) Have preliminary called in on the first refuelling and have bought local "avtoban-tiket" for the minimum term (there are 8 euros, operates in a current of 10 days on all avtobanah the countries). Now them 2 on a windshield. Vienna have reached less than in an hour. It is a little having strayed, have driven to hotel.

Hotel "President" **** (Wallgasse 23; Tel.: +431-599-90-00) basically has made pleasant impression, especially presence of underground garage (15 euros a day, only small cars). 4 stars there theoretically are present, here it only has been constructed obviously years in the seventieth and since then there has changed nothing. The furniture, the equipment, the sanitary technician, attendants, lodgers … :) Mda … Our neighbours were exclusively German-speaking grandmothers and grandfathers from a category «to whom for 70». In this case the tour agency has pumped up (almost unique disappointment for all trip). It is Literally in the next building settled down «Ibis» liked network Accor. On one star it is less, but is cheaper and with garantirovanno high level of service.

To miss evening hours per a new city it would not be desirable at all. Bystrenko have made toilet and have gone on walk. To stamp to the centre on foot it was necessary long enough. The hotel is at the western station, near metro station Westbahnhof (a "yellow" line). The underground in Vienna is designated by letter U against, corresponding to colour of the given line. Journey – 1,5 euros. The ticket should be bought in the automatic machine and to punch on a turnstile. We have checked up this way of movement next day. And in the first evening walked only legs.

Evening Vienna – a show magnificent! As, however, and day. To it also have devoted all next day. Architecture of the historical centre is magnificent-grandiose, set of monuments of imperial times and ancient cathedrals. The main sight – a cathedral St. Stefana (XII-XVI centuries) A grandiose Gothic construction under the well-known figured tile roof - a city symbol. Amazes both external, and internal magnificence. On top of one of towers it is possible to rise on the ridiculous round lift with hohotlivym the lift attendant – the true Aryan (3 euros from the person). Imperial palace Hofburg applies For the second place in the list of sights. The huge complex consists from Old Burga (palace) and New Burga with the Swiss court yard and the area of Heroes. Facades simply skazachno are magnificent. Imperial rooms are accessible to a review. Here waits disappointment. At all imperial lustre and external magnificence internal registration of a palace, to put it mildly, ascetically. On furniture and a decor the Austrian emperors have obviously saved. Yes, it to you not the Hermitage. The ticket in cost gives the right also to visit 7.5 euros palace storehouse of silver and tablewares, and still a museum of cult Austrian empress Elizabeth – a sex symbol of XIX century It is well-known not for any grandiose reforms, as Maria-Terezija, and the cultivated leanness. Similar, shaping have invented at court yard Sisi as she was called gently by citizens. The museum with its twilight, black walls and dot illumination makes a little mrachnovatoe impression of a memorial or even the mausoleum. Is in this hobby avstrijakov something nekrofilskoe. Also we have visited a museum lipitstsanerov (horse guards) in stables SHtalburg. Lipitstsaner on vzdyblennom a racer – too one of symbols of Vienna. At «the Spanish school of riding» arrange regular (2-3 times a week) representations, however to get on them not simply – tickets sell for a month. In the rest of the time a four-footed vehicle it is possible to take pleasure in a management skill only in a museum cinema hall (an input – 5 euros). We at all have not seen live horses.

Other sights examined only outwardly: areas YOzefplats and Mihaelerplats with excavation of ancient Roman settlement, church Augustinekirhe where hearts Gabsburgov, former monastery Albertina are based, the uniter ancient and modern architecture, set of the temples, the New town hall, Parliament, the National garden, a palace the Belvedere with park … Unfortunately, on reconstruction has appeared the whole quarter round Opera theatre, including a Viennese opera and the well-known hotel "Захер" not in the last instance known for the cafe where prepare the chocolate pie with the same name is closed. This vkusnjatinu should be tried not in the original in one of uncountable Viennese cafes.

In Vienna guidebooks usually pay to culture and traditions of consumption of coffee special attention, sometimes the whole heads. It is said that versions of an invigorating drink there are tens and everyone has the name, and at the visitor who reserves simply "coffee" waiters look, how on the stupid devourer of hamburgers and Coca-Cola. Personally I have not noticed a special difference, sometimes reserving «coffee with milk», and sometimes "melange" as it is accepted to speak in Vienna. I do not divide and delights concerning well-known shnitselja on-venski. Such to itself a huge chop in panirovke, on a masterpiece of culinary art obviously not pulling. But we have appreciated local beer, fault and classical Viennese shtrudel which usually submit with cream. On the well-known institutions of a city we did not suit a campaign. Simply fell there where feet refused to go further, and reserved according to time of day and requirements of a stomach (a supper for two – about 30 euros with beer). So these have passed evening and day in Vienna.

Road to Riviera

If casually not to notice the dark blue tablet with inscription Italy in a frame of stars of the European Union, hit in the new country can be felt only on slightly changed style of guide signs and … to improvement of quality of road. The Italian motorways are smart! The majority is laid in mountain district, but any streamers! The road goes approximately at one level, cutting mountains the long, perfectly well equipped tunnels, hanging over precipices very tall viaducts. Kinds shaking! But it is necessary to pay for pleasure, and it is a lot of. Practically everywhere the system is identical. On entrance on a motorway there is a number of terminals with barriers. It is necessary to approach and get a sticking out ticket (if the ticket is not present, it is necessary to press the big green button) from a crack. The barrier rises, it is possible to go. Only do not get on the terminals designated by an inscription «Telepass» - they for at whom "travel card". And it is necessary to hand over that a backing, parting forcibly turn behind and running on hooters and damnations of temperamental Italians. And at worst it is possible to get and to the rather strong penalty for «stowaway journey». Sooner or later avtoban will end, and here you again should pass through a barrier, already paying the kilometric area passed on qualitative road. Again taki, do not get on «Telepass». Choose those terminals which are designated by the pictogramme with the cashier in a box – with the live person to be explained always easier. Give a card, and on a board the sum for journey is highlighted. If are self-assured – to you on the terminal with payment by credit cards, will communicate in Italian with «the iron blockhead». On separate sites system a little bit another – tickets do not give out and it is necessary to pay the fixed sum at once on entrance. Such sites meet, in particular, in the south. Precisely same variants of payment practise, by the way, and in France. Only designations others – terminals with payment by cash can be designated by the image of banknotes and coins, and cashiers are not present often in general. Simply approach and throw in a special basket a trifle for the sum specified in a board.

Infrastructure of motorways also at the highest level. Complexes of road service meet almost each 10 km. The most powerful network of restaurants – «Autogrill». Usually in a complex, except refuelling, enters a supermarket, restaurant or fastfud (or both that, and another), toilets, souls, children's rooms, etc. to the People always it is a lot of. In such complex we also had dinner somewhere near Verona and have moved further. To be guided easy, indexes clear, outcomes simple.

On district Genoa the first stopper. Still kilometre for three about it the special vehicle with a huge sign-board warned. Stand all patiently, on vstrechke nobody goes round, however all amicably part on a "first aid" way. Minutes through 40 we get out on freedom and we already actually on Riviera! From road the long-awaited sea is already visible. Still slightly and - here it, France! The road, of course, is worse, tunnels any mrachnovatye, but the mood rises. We fly by the last of 40 km to Nitstsy, further congress in a city, instinctively we leave on quay (in seaside cities it simply – it is necessary to go all time downwards). Our hotel in the second line. Have a little roamed and at 21.40 have parked before an input. In total at the wheel, not including short-term stops, has spent 13 and a half hours. For me it was a record!

Akkorovsky «Mercure Californie» *** (58, 60 avenue de la Californie; Tel: (+33) 4/93444101), in general, has liked. It is located not in the centre, but also not on suburb. Numbers rather small, but cosy. The breakfast not bleshchet a variety but to gorge on it is possible. Only with a parking there was a trouble – hotel did not work. It was necessary to park in multilevel garage of any clinic opposite for 15 euros a day. It is the usual price for a public parking on all resorts and in the big cities, both France, and Italy. Sometimes it is possible to find for 10. On entrance before a barrier it is necessary to press the button and to take the jumped out ticket, and then to occupy any free parkovochnoe a place. Before departure it is necessary to pay parking by cash or a credit card, having thrust a ticket in the special automatic machine (the sum will be highlighted on the display). The paid ticket will open a barrier on departure. Other variant – to leave the car in the street, it happens more cheaply. But here to find an empty seat … Somehow observed a picture when one car suddenly has sharply stopped, from it a bullet any young lady has taken off and was threw on other party of street. It has appeared, they have simply noticed there an empty seat! So it also stood, nobody starting up while the car was developed at a crossroads.

Exhausted by long road, we, at last, have got out on a beach. To bathe was already rather late. Have simply wandered a little along a line of a surf and have sat down slightly to have a bite and drink beer in the first pizzeria. The French speech caressed hearing. With pleasure has said phrase just read in a phrase book «Lja disyon, silvuple» («the Bill, please»). When in reply to tip the waitress – very picturesque Frenchwoman – with a smile has told: «Mersi to a side!» - I felt D'Artanjanom. :)

Azure coast

The bottom road along Azure coast by right is considered one of the most beautiful in the world. Magnificent landscapes with the sea, mountains and tile roofs huddling between them, exotic vegetation, the same exotic vehicles. Such quantity expensive sportkarov, and antiquarian avtomobilchikov I did not meet every possible cabriolets on road more anywhere. And, the big limousines can be seen unless in Monte-Carlo. Small is much more practical. For example, the police does not hesitate to use tiny "Smarts" even. In Cannes we have walked on the well-known quay Kruazet, have inspected unsightly in appearance the Palace of festivals with a ladder covered with a red path, have looked for familiar surnames on Avenue of stars, and then as usually, have got on zamkovuju mountain to look at the glorified resort from height of the bird's flight. Beaches sandy, with imported sand. To the people rather it is a lot of, but the place can be found easy even on a free central city beach. The big beaches between small towns where it is possible to park free of charge near to water are rather popular. The infrastructure in necessary quantities is present even at such "wild" places.

In Monaco has surprised a considerable quantity of policemen in streets which regularly fined infringers. Have parked in the centre, in underground garage of the Casino of Monte-Carlo. The well-known gambling institution thanks to which the silent princedom has turned to an excentric city of millionaires, was accessible to survey only from the main facade. From other parties it has been covered by huge boards – there was a restoration. In visitors start up only in the evening and only in an appropriate kind – any shortov and T-shorts! But it is possible to sit freely in luxurious «Cafe de the Bet» opposite to an input in a casino, having a drink coffee for 3,5 euros and observing for movement of elite public. Visiting by tourists of a princely palace semisotletnej dynasties Grimaldi is organised top-level. A huge parking on an average level zamkovoj mountains, lifts and escalators to the very top, souvenir little shops and cafe on road. The palace is constructed on a place of a fortress, erected by genoeses in 1215 At top of the rock abruptly breaking to the sea. Looks modestly enough. At our visiting the flag over it has been lifted, prince Rene III means there were houses. The much bigger impression makes a building of the Oceanographic museum with an aquarium on a steep rock (11 euros for an input). The museum has been based in 1910 by prince Albert I, the passionate fan of the underwater world and personal friend Jean Cousteau. It is possible to walk long on park with bronze statues, to visit museums, to examine medieval architecture, to admire views on the harbours hammered dorogushchimi by yachts and sea superliners. And, of course, any motorist will not miss possibility to drive on the ring line of Monte-Carlo coiling on close city labyrinths most dangerous in the world.

Striking contrast became located literally in several kilometres Menton, that almost on border with Italy. A resort not too untwisted, Frenchmen with an average prosperity therefore atmosphere is much more picturesque have a rest basically, and the prices are much more accessible. Over a city the huge church towers, but completely to capture its sight it is possible only from air. We long wandered on very narrow small streets, trying to discover an optimum foreshortening, but all the same could make out only details. Beaches, as well as everywhere, basically free and free enough, despite a high season. And I that expected a traditional Crimean chaos from the French Riviera! Water in the sea very warm, pure and really azure. Occasionally meeting dust catch nets from special boats. Beauty!

Some words about kitchen. Had breakfast, naturally, in hotel (a buffet, the truth, more poorly, than in Vienna), and it is dense enough. The dinner because of a heat high-grade did not happen never – me quite sufficed classical nitsianskogo some salad "Nisuaz" (Nicoise): greens with jajtsom and anchovies (sometimes with a tuna or that and another together). It would be desirable to drink only, and thirst is better satisfied a glass of the white wine well diluted with cold water. Beer in France to drink somehow tritely though is quite good enough. And here to have supper tried in different places, trying to discover any national dishes. Seafood I have gorged on in plenty! It was necessary to try traditional French molluscs – mussels (moules) and oysters (hurites) – under sauces. It is very tasty, and portions simply huge. For that did not search essentially so it is the frog pads. :) And here some onions soup for some reason and have not met. But it, more likely, the Parisian kitchen. If not to take a great interest, the average supper can keep within 30 euros. In stamps of wines I not the big expert, but bad we have not met never. Having spat upon attempts to understand classification and names, began to reserve anonymous «local wine» which offers any institution respecting under very low prices. Surprisingly, but the fact – at restaurant a wine glass costs more cheaply, than a juice glass. On the average, 7 euros for litre. That we and have not understood, so it is hobbies of Frenchmen for a national variant of a fast food. It when undertakes a long baguette, is cut lengthways and nashpigovyvaetsja by meat, salad and a potato-fri. And then all it is absorbed in considerable quantities. And after that they still despise Americans for hamburgers … :)

In the homeland of Revival

In a booth of the tourist information took a map (guidebooks and consultations supply free of charge!) Also have gone on excursion, having combined some routes from the guidebook. The brightest impression – a smell. Such sensation, that genoeses pour out till now slops of windows. In a city a large quantity of ancient palaces – a heritage of times of great Genoa trading empire. But there are they so is close to each other what to estimate a facade it is possible seldom. It is more interesting to look in court yard where palaces appear in all magnificence. Their especially big congestion in the street Garribaldi. Into museums to come did not become – economy of time. Have walked only to Soprano Gate, at once for which there is Columbus's small house. Skromnenkoe such two-storeyed dwelling. Not the pioneer was the rich person. And in port, near an aquarium, there is a copy of its caravel "Santa-Marija". Townspeople are proud of the nice fellow countryman. Also are very favourable to tourists. When we stood at port, trying to orient on district, to us person any a decent view has approached. Having understood, that in Italian we do not speak, has passed to English. Has shown on a map a place where we are, and also those sights, which, in his opinion, deserve the greatest attention. Even has shown how to pass. And, having wished good luck, has gone on the affairs …

Further on a route there was Pisa. For what tourists clearly all here bring down. So, driving to a city, be easy attached behind the basic stream of transport – will deduce where it is necessary. If have lost the way, guided under brown indexes «Torre Pendente» or «Duomo» with the image of a falling tower. Actually, it is a usual belltower pizanskoj Duomy – a cathedral of XII century Close on it to approach it will not be possible – movement on approaches is strictly limited. It is necessary to walk a little on foot. The parking, as well as everywhere, costs from 50 cents to 1 euro in an hour, depending on nearness to sight. Coming to Pisa during the high season, count, that the turn on lifting on a tower should wait. Tickets on 15 euros are on sale with instructions of time of visiting at 3-4 o'clock forward. This time can be spent for visiting of a cathedral and baptisterija (it is necessary to stand in a queue under the sun), and also on acquisition of souvenirs and a quiet dinner. To mastering is better the subsequent overcoming of 300 steps to top kampanily which is one of the main symbols of Italy will promote. As is known, to fall it has begun literally right after constructions, but to stabilise its condition it was possible just now – for visiting after reconstruction it is opened since 2001 the Deviation from a vertical on the whole 5 metres it is visible fine and tourists have in large quantities a good time, posing in front of cameras in a pose "propping up" a tower. Nearly has not forgotten – architecture simply magnificent! If still to the people was … less

Sitting in cafe, here we have faced for the first time a Negro craft traditional for the tourist centres. During one moment from anywhere suddenly there is a crowd of Negroes with huge bags which suddenly on an equal place will organise brisk spontaneous trade in cheap female handbags, sun glasses and counterfeit hours. Bother with the persuasive offers awfully. As soon as there are representatives of protection of an order, they as instantly disappear to appear on a new place. Met them subsequently across all Italy.

And the first representative of the Ukrainian diaspora have met already in Florence, having stopped in the street to orient on a map in search of the hotel. From standing ahead of the car with Italian numbers suddenly has jumped out any muzhichok and has run to us with joyful shouts: «Привіт! Vi звідки? A yak here opinilis?». It was presented as «Petro z Франківська» and has told, that there live here 2 years that is interrupted by various earnings what to live it is possible, but all the same it is better than the house, and «tse not for us». Also was there and then called to spend us to hotel which has appeared all in two-three quarters.

The hotel «La Fortezza» *** has very much liked. Small, cosy, near to the centre, it is direct at a fortress Yes Basso (Fortezza da Basso). Numbers with a beautiful interior, the excellent equipment, small parkovochka in a court yard (10 euros). But there is one problem, characteristic for many hotels of high level – sockets. They are specially calculated «kljatymi by Italians» on our tourist coming with the iron, a boiler, a heater, a samovar and other fire-dangerous household appliances. I.e. gymnastics from mobilki to switch on it is possible, and any device with a thick plug – in any way. It is necessary to have an adapter of what I somehow have not thought in advance. Hotel services of an ironing extremely expensive! This time I all the same have found one normal socket so to walk across evening Florence we have gone smoothed out. :)

In capital of the Italian Renaissance all roads conduct to Duome – to cathedral Santa-Marija del Fore with a belltower and baptisteriem the Dignity-dzhovanni of XI century To it we have come in the evening, from it have begun excursion and to next morning. The unique dome of a cathedral in height more than 100 m of job of architect Brunelleski is now one of symbols of Florence. Other churches and belltowers meet in an old city almost continually. However, more city is known for the greatest works of art of Renaissance. To look at the original of a cult statue of David of job Michelangelo in Academy Gallery there is a huge turn. On area Sinorii the copy is exposed. In the same place the popular exposition of a sculpture of XVI century and a remarkable fountain "Neptune" is located. From quantity of the museums, inviting to touch products of the greatest painters and sculptors, eyes run up. Having looked through the guidebook, have decided to be limited to museums of palace Pitti – them at once a little in one place.

The road to area Pitti conducts through the Old bridge, in an antiquity assigned to jewellers. Their benches with the attached small houses hanging over the river, take places on both parties and now. Women are recommended to be spent on the bridge blindfold. :) Palace Pitti which was in due time residence of Medici, from a main entrance looks, to put it mildly, modestly. Very simple, rough and stocky. But interiors of smart royal apartments … the Direct opposite Viennese Hofburgu. Here we have come also for the sake of Raphael's originals, Titsiana, Rubens, Van Dejka, and 14,5 euros for the ticket in half-hour turn have not regretted. Except several museums, cost also includes visiting of Gardens Boboli. Here too it is necessary to visit necessarily – from the hill of the Belvedersky lock located at top the tremendous kind on a city opens. Only from here it is possible to see the Florentine cathedral in all its magnificence. To me the phrase of doctor Lektera from «Silence of lambs» at once was recollected: «It is a kind on Duomo from Belvedera. You are familiar with Florence?».

We walked till the evening, have not crawled yet on falling off feet to "our" fortress Yes Basso where were arranged for a supper in one of noticed on the eve of institutions. It was necessary to try necessarily a firm beefsteak on-florentijski and it is obligatory under firm kjanti. The beefsteak has appeared banal, but the huge stake pickled in an olive oil. And kjanti it is necessary still to be able to choose. This well-known red wine make in the big area between Florence and Siena already 800 vinodelcheskih firms. But experts recommend to pay attention only on Chianti Classico, made in the centre of its historical native land. Costs not cheaply even in shops – about 10 euros for a bottle. But original taste is guaranteed. And more, a distinctive sign certificated kjanti – a black cockerel on a stopper. And at parting, in a sign on gratitude for the good order, to us have brought «from an institution» on a wine-glass limonchelly is a traditional Italian dizhestiv, not so strong lemon liquor.

All roads conduct to Rome

Further we drive to the Italian remote places. On the parties of minor road newcomers, accurate, almost toy kottedzhiki continually come across. Speak, the real estate in this district actively is bought up by rather well-to-do Germans leaving on rest. On a hill the picturesque landscape from stone walls, turrets and tile roofs is visible. Moving on avtobanu, such medieval small towns, locks and even palaces only you have time to see off eyes. And here nothing prevents to turn off the road and make to us a short-term stop. So we have appeared in small Tuscan small town Luchinjano. Most interestingly it looks from air – small houses are located in the form of concentric ellipses round the centre with a cathedral and a town hall. Tile roofs, narrow small streets, the paved areas – colour surprising! Have fixed pleasure soft drinks and coffee on a summer platform under fortifications. And we had dinner already in Arezzo. Graceful belokamennyj the small town with the inclined cathedral area and the lock is most known for frescos «History of the Life-giving Cross» Pero della Francheski in church the Dignity-franchesko. Have chosen it and cinematographers: Roberto Benigni removed here «the Life is perfect» (photos with scenes from a film hang at every turn), and Igor Tarkovsky - "Nostalgia". Each first Sunday of month passes antiquarian fair – we, unfortunately, have not got.

And here we in Rome. Have swept on district where jobs on expansion proezzhej parts with might and main boil, and have gone deep into a city. Have quickly lost the way, in spite of the fact that with itself there was very detailed map but as have quickly appeared suddenly in the necessary place. « Hotel delle Vittorie »*** (Via Col di Lana 24; tel. +39.063735391) it is located not in the centre (half an hour on foot), but it is successful enough – near to metro station and nearby to Vatican. Conditions in number perfect and a parking in a court yard free of charge! If yet these sockets … In the first evening have decided not to go to the centre, have reached on foot only the nearest sight – areas Del popolo where have sat down for a supper in the well-known cafe" Rosati "storing reputation of one of centres Dolce Vita - a bohemian life of Rome. The picturesque group behind the next little table, consisting of two aged dandies and the shabby life of the impressive blonde of a bright exterior, has convinced us that the guidebook has not told lies, asserting, that here original and imaginary directors, producers, actors and actresses more often are going to.

For three days we with a head have plunged into Rome. Have begun, certainly, from the Collosseo. Also have correctly made. Already next day access to the main sight of a city has been limited, and then and is at all closed. Even excursion buses have changed routes, having excluded from the program this object. Has just expired term of the next ultimatum of Osama bin Laden to the Italian government in which he promised to blow up the Collosseo if Italy does not disengage an army from Iraq. After Madrid this threat have apprehended more than seriously. Streets were patrolled strenuously by carabinieres, and little bit later in Naples we even saw armored cars on approaches to the governmental objects. So to us has still carried. Having defended turn, have got complex tickets on 22 euros which grant the right to visit at once 9 museums of network Museo Nazionale Romano for 3 days. Very conveniently, only it is better to buy them in any other place, that without turn. Among them – galleries in palaces Massimo and Altemps, terms Diokletiana and Karakala, ruins of imperial palaces on hill Palatin and so forth Separately it is necessary to descend in museums of a palace of Conservatives on Capitol Hill (8 euros) where the well-known Kapitolijsky she-wolf is exposed. Only on bypassing a historical kernel of a city with ruins of the Roman Forum, the Capitol, the Temple of Divine Mother on a place of the Roman citadel, the Pantheon and a grandiose monument to Victor Emmanuilu II it is necessary to spend all the day.

Even half-day has left to Vatican. St. Peter's Cathedral. There are words … Standing in the middle this no greatest creation of hands human, feel a small insect. To a modest tomb of the apostle it is necessary to go down in a vault, and the foot of its bronze statue which all tourists without fail touch, is really erased by hands on third. It is necessary to rise on top of a huge dome though in turn it is necessary to spend for standing at least hour, and still to overcome more than 300 steps in narrow pass in a construction (the lift goes only to the middle). Very much it would be desirable to get to the Chapel Michelangelo, but, unfortunately, in Museums of Vatican (the input with opposite from party St. Peter's square) was the rare day off. Some words about admission system. The main rule – any shortov (bridges are not considered as trousers!) And women necessarily with the covered shoulders and in skirts below knees (in trousers too it is possible). This rigid rule operates only on an input (the sentence "security guard" broken the clothes form is continually audible: «Gratse, arivederchi!»). Further the dexterous tourists who have just pulled trousers directly on the area of St. Peter, change clothes back in shorts, and women get rid of scarfs – a heat! And nearby, one more remarkable architectural construction – absolutely round lock Sacred Angela in which Popes hid from enemies in case of danger is direct over Tiber.

Last day have decided to use services of public transport and have visited the sights located near to some metro stations. Most tusovochnye places – fountain Trevi and the Spanish ladder on Pjatstsa di Spanija. The youth simply adores to sit there directly on steps. Ruins term Diokletiana are mastered and adapted for a long time already for needs of a modern city – Michelangelo has built in them Church Presvjatoj of Maiden Maria, the set of museums has there and then settled down. And in due time these Roman baths could serve to three thousand persons simultaneously! However, much more bolshee the impression is made by terms Karakala. A construction simply enormous though it has been calculated only on one and a half thousand clients. From it minutes for 15 it is possible to reach gate St. Sebastjano, the Ancient road Appieva whence begins. In a complex of gate the museum of the Roman walls (were saved almost completely) is located. A little aside there are St. Paul's gate and the Pyramid – the mausoleum tribune Kaja TSestija. On road Appievoj which was partially saved in a primordial form (it is paved by ancient Roman plates somewhere after 5th mile), too it is a lot of sights, including Christian relics (a catacomb with the first Christian burial places, church Kamo Grjadeshi where to apostle Peter there was a vision of the Christ) so it is necessary again taki to have the corresponding form of clothes. On foot to go it is not necessary – very big distances. It is better to use city bus №118 which goes there from underground "Pyramid", or specialised "Arheobusom".

By the way, if for acquaintance to a city you have only one day, for moving between points is better to use bus of a route 110 Open. Departs each half an hour from station Termini. Tickets sell in the same place, in a red box on terminal D. The open bus goes on a difficult route with stops near to the basic sights. It is possible to leave on any, to take a walk, and then to sit down in the following bus and to move further. On a course in ear-phones excursion in 8 languages is broadcast. Russian, of course, is not present. Last day we have used turavtobusom simply once again to look at «places of fighting glory» from height of the second floor. In general, buses and trams – the most preferable type of transport. The underground very small (only 2 lines), passes, basically, away from the tourist centres and local residents (journey – 1 euro, zakompostirovannyj the ticket gives the right to go on any transport of 75 mines) use it, mainly. And from the aesthetic point of view the Roman underground – not the best sight: dirty and entirely ornamented graffiti.

At station "Pyramid" we have suddenly heard the Ukrainian speech – elderly women communicated some. Surprise has reached a limit when hardly have aside seen other group of Ukrainians obviously not a tourist kind, and passing by muzhichki with huge trunks greeted them, as with neigbours, in a pure Ukrainian language. As it has appeared, the market where the Ukrainian diaspora trades in small trade is nearby located. Its illegal representatives and other employment find. In Florence, for example, our compatriots washed glasses on a traffic light. And in cafe near to the central station observed, how two Russians, just met third, arrived under the tourist visa, explained, how it is better to be arranged in Rome. For a pier, job here to search it is not necessary. The main thing - is successful to marry! Knowingly Italy is protected from us by such rigid visa barriers.

At bottom of Vesuvius

The first point – Herculaneum (modern Erkolano), on a legend based Geraklom. Before the well-known eruption 74 years were small resort small town on seacoast. Unlike the well-known Pompey, fell asleep it basically not too hot ashes and dirt streams. Besides, actively to dig out it have begun rather recently. As a result - the antique city has lived up to now in the original preserved condition. In many houses the second floors, wooden overlappings and doors, frescos on walls were saved. In some rooms there is slightly charred furniture: tables, cases, beds. Many works of art, subjects of a life and even papyruses practically have not suffered. Human remains have been found in clothes and with ornaments many. In one building it is possible to see skeletons at once 17 persons who were going to on commemoration in summary have been buried. Wandering on city small streets, here very simply to imagine an ancient Roman life. By the way, and it is not a lot of tourists even during a high season.

But in Pompey simply not to force the way. The city is much more untwisted, not in the last instance thanks to Bryullov's well-known picture. It is more in the sizes, but was saved worse. It was covered with the fused lava, and with everything, that could burn down, has burnt down. From people there were only emptiness in the breed, which archeologists have filled in with plaster, and such original "sculptures" have turned out, as forms for which human bodies have served. But the architecture is richer, there is a set of the specialised constructions, the rich palaces, interesting mosaics and frescos. The greatest popularity at tourists, certainly, uses lupanary – a brothel. Pictures with the most frank scenes by which walls are painted, invariably involve people crowds. Similar "painting" and in certain «the House of the rich townswoman». In general, it is necessary to go there on all the day, it is desirable not so hot. If necessary to have a bite it is possible at small restaurant which have arranged directly in a complex a term. On visiting of both sights (and more two smaller) it is better to get the subscription for 18 euros for 3 days. The single ticket – 10 euros.

And, certainly, it is necessary to rise on top of the owner of bay of Naples – Vesuvius. On kilometre height it is possible to call in on a streamer by the car. Further – the big parking. The last of 500 metres it is necessary protopat legs. The same way can be done and on recently restored railway. Trains go from small town Dignity Vito. A final point of a route - seismological station «Osservatorio Vezuviano». On the approach to a crater collect an entrance fee – 6,50. It is possible to go down in a half-kilometre muzzle, pamjatuja, that last time the volcano was thrown up only 60 years ago. The Top views shaking: a gulf, island Capri, Naples and vicinities. Everywhere are traced lavovye streams of different eruptions. Blocking each other, they form similarity of the armour reserving slopes.

Than more close to resorts, movement there is more intense. Stoppers on road from Pompey along coast towards Sorrento arise regularly. It is promoted by spontaneous parkings on roadsides at rare free beaches. An extreme to driving motorcyclists and the importunate scooters which are getting up on a streamer to something improbable add bezbashennye. Traffic rules - not for them. Overtake all at any possibility, getting in each hole, godlessly cutting. Many simply go on axial, them overtake on vstrechke "colleagues", and thus they somehow manage to part with the same passers "ezdjukami". But kinds open the magnificent! More close to Sorrento along road even special viewing platforms with small parking places that it was possible to leave and admire a panorama are equipped.

The excellent kind to bay of Naples with a bulk of Vesuvius on horizon opened and from windows of our hotel in Meta-di-Sorrento «Panorama Palace» **** (Piazza Scarpati 1; Tel: +390818086520). Conditions comprehensible, but to 4 stars somehow do not hold out. Have especially upset breakfasts. In general, in Italy, the to the south, the "buffets" in hotels are poorer. Here even traditional boiled eggs was not: by one kind of a ham and cheese, a roll, butter, jams, yoghurts and mjusli. Here and all meal. But local tratorii (national small restaurants) have pleased with magnificent Neapolitan kitchen. Pasta of every possible kinds we during a trip were full. But in the south they especially tasty, sated both nourishing. It and classical spaghettis karbonara, and a lasagna, and ravioli, and every possible variants of sauces on the basis of seafood. Linguine alla Pescatora – obedenie! All it under easy and tasty house white wine. Colour to institutions adds also that on southern resorts have a rest, basically, Italians, and the big families. Comes into a tavern such "mafia": ahead the head of the family, behind it the correct wife, further noisy children, and in the end – the grandmother with the grandfather. All take seats behind the big table as hierarchy and the cheerful feast in style of a scene of wedding from "Godfather" begins.

And here to try well-known pizza "neapolitana" in the Naples and it was not possible. In a good pizzeria in the city centre the waiter has pretended, that does not understand, about what speech, and has unperturbably offered "Margarita". Despite a friend advice, have called in to Naples by the car and even have dared to leave it on a street parking (all protected found in the centre have been hammered). It was necessary to be fidgety, observing of how juvenile shpana ransacked between the parked cars, looking in windows and something himicha then the alarm system worked. Than they were engaged, we and have not understood, but to our machine, fortunately, have not reached. In general, this huge seaport – a nursery of all defects – has attracted at once attention unusual for Europe quantity of vagabonds, beggars and uninvited washermen of windshields (I accurately adhere to a principle “not reserved service it is not paid”). At us at a bar directly in broad daylight beat any Negro, and personally to me tried vsuchit the stolen chamber. Colour rather original. Keep more strong for the bags!

Birthday

Our hotel «Laguna Palace» **** (Mestre, Ancona 2; Tel. +39 0418296111) it is located not on an island part of Venice, and in suburb Mestre where the industrial and business life of a city is concentrated. It is a lot of hotels and in the Venice, but by car on them not to approach. The vehicle should be left on the big multilevel parking (18 euros a day) on the area of Rome, and further with all suitcases to move on foot or on every possible plavsredstvah. At first we doubted, can is valid it was necessary to find hotel on islands, is closer to the historical centre. But when have seen "Lagoon" … All doubts as a hand has removed. Hotel simply smart! An eight-story building of the ultramodern architecture, sparkling metal and mirror glasses, silent lifts with the monitors showing weather and other helpful information, smart halls, a huge underground parking (10 euros a day). Numbers of the highest level of comfort: The central air-conditioning, touch switches, TV with access to the Internet (5 euros a day), illumination in a case, a shone table-top... The Breakfast on a terrace over the channel with wattled furniture and huge burning candles. A daily transfer to Venice and back on a minibus or a boat. All it (except parking place and the Internet) enters into cost!

As it is good, that Venice became last point of travel. While, appear, the head any more does not contain new impressions, and feet refuse to go, we have got to absolutely especial place absolutely not similar on one another. The uncountable islands which have been built up with medieval palaces, a web of channels, the tiny areas, very narrow small streets. A large quantity of the little shops trading in traditional souvenirs: masks and the Venetian glass. The city is completely focused on tourism. The most popular place – the area the Dignity-marko with colonnades Old and New prokuratsy, a palace of Doges, an hour tower on eternal restoration and invariable pigeons. From the obligatory program – visiting of a fantastic cathedral the Dignity-marko and belltowers (lifting on the lift – 6 euros). And on museums we already at all did not have forces. Simply wandered on city labyrinths, absorbing atmosphere of a free city. Who has told, what from channels bears mustiness? Anything similar! Only a smell of sea freshness.

And any car! Even bicycles are not present. All movement only by boats and boats. The most democratic type of transport – vaporetto (water tramvajchik). The disposable ticket costs 5 euros in the summer. But to drive it is necessary several times on a route №1 to consider from water Grand Channel palaces. Is much easier and faster to move on foot – distances absolutely small. The well-known gondolas public transport to name difficultly – the expensive pleasure. For the minimum half-hour route striped gondoliers of a piracy kind tear up 100 euros! There's nothing to be done – monopoly. It is a lot of tourists, and gondoliers only 400. During a high season on key points it is necessary even to stand in a queue. But as you will refuse such pleasure … the Small secret. If you have decided to drive on the longest route for 300 euros, reserve at first the short! The gondolier will long tempt with advantages long – do not surrender! And here, when you will reach a fork, whence it is necessary to come back back, the notable discount will be offered you. :)

In general, the best place for unforgettable birthday not to think up. In the first evening we have gone to Venice by a taxi (for a hotel transfer was already late). From Pjatstsa Rum on vaporetto on the evening Grand Channel nespesha have reached to the Dignity-marko. Here they, kinds, to a pain acquaintances on cinema and telecasts! The holiday official part has passed in cafe on the main area of Venice accompanied by magnificent classical music which was executed by a live orchestra. Applodirovala all area! There was a tasty meal, there was an excellent wine, there were white roses … But the main thing – sensation of calmness, a pacification and full delight from stay in one of the most surprising places in the world. Relaks … And the waiter inspired by generous tip long repeated at parting just learnt: «Djakuju! To pobachennja!».

Epilogue

Total, for 21 day have passed 7 and a half thousand kilometres. Have visited 6 countries, including Monaco and Vatican. Obligatory expenses were distributed approximately as follows:

- Gasoline – 480 euros;
- avtobany – 200 euros;
- Parkings – 200 euros;
- Museums – 200 euros;
- Public transport and taxi – 75 euros.

On all the rest it is possible to save really. In particular, practically everywhere in Europe it is possible to find decent hotels around 50 euros for dablrum. As much will leave on a food for a two if to be limited to fast foods and, at desire, "suhpajkom". Thus, it is possible to keep within 3000 euros easy. We afforded more solid much more so also the budget left.

Unequivocally it is necessary to use tourist agencies. They will incur all routine job on registration of visas and can reserve good hotels with considerable discounts. But in advance to reserve there are hotels only in key points where you are going to to spend some days. mezhu it is better to leave them windows which will allow to improvise on a route. Also it is very desirable to plan towards the end of a long route a long stop on any resort where some days will be possible is high-grade to have a rest and gain strength before final jerk. On this jerk initially it is better not to build accurate plans, and to plan it already directly in a way, depending on that, how much remains forces. So we will prepare for the following trip which is planned for the next summer. Prepare France, soon we will arrive to celebrate birthday in Paris! :)