Weekend in Kachanovke

If you are assured till now, that to the east from Kiev anything interesting to the autotourist to find it is impossible, go in Kachanovku! But only during a warm season (from May till September) and only with spending the night. The kind portion of impressions seasoned with tremendous romanticism, is guaranteed. Key places – dvortsovo-park complexes Sokirintsev, Trostjantsa and Kachanovki – are located compactly, somewhere in between nezhinym and Prilukami (these districts and in itself are noteworthy). The road not too tyres, especially if to go more close by the summer when dorozhniki finish restoration of passableness of the basic lines. The general kilometric area of a trip does not exceed 500 km. Only it is desirable to be reserved by provisions in advance as tourist service in the Chernigov remote places exists only in embryo. I already described many sights of these places in one of the previous reports. I will therefore be limited mainly to a travel practical side.

To begin with about road. To go it is possible through Nezhin or through Priluki. We have checked up both routes, and now I recommend to choose exclusively second variant, and to Nezhin to go somehow separately. Otherwise after high comfort of the first 100 km of the Chernigov line (Е95) and average parshivosti following 35 km of the Moscow line (Е101) it is necessary to adapt long for tens kilometres of disgusting rural roads through Ichnju and parafievku. It is better to curtail from Brovarov at once on the Sumy line (Р01) and it is quiet, hour for two, to reach to Priluk, whence the travel purpose already a hand a tax. The road will be narrowish, places strongly broken (to be dispersed it is not necessary, especially in the spring), but not too loaded by transport.

For a dinner with small portion of sights on snack it is possible to choose Priluki. Good institutions of a public catering are not evident. In particular, it is necessary to look for restaurant "Alexandria" (street on 1st of May, 48; bodies: (04637) 44-440; 44-168) which is considered the best and the most expensive in a city (20 grn. For the basic dish). Here, on the second floor, comfortable enough private minihotel so the small town can be chosen safely as base for trips on vicinities takes places small, but. Alternatives to these institutions are listed on a site "Priluki mistetsk і". It is necessary to spend half an hour for short walk on a foot zone around Cathedral where three temples tower at once: the Nikolaev church-belltower (1720), the Cathedral of Christmas of the Virgin (1806-15) and Stretensky church (1889) Without a cross, but with guns at an input – the museum of local lore here has strongly located. A little aside on street Kiev – the Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy cathedral (1705-20). Also it is possible to look for unique baroque construction of the Regimental treasury (1709). This unique civil construction which has saved since times prilukskoj of a fortress of XVIII century when colonel Ignaty Galagan here managed. It is a pity, that there was no monuments of times of the Kiev Russia, after all to a city already almost one thousand years …

On district Priluk the index on Gustynju is evident. To be exact, on the Gustynsky Piously-Troitsk female monastery of defensive type. At first sight it seems that to defend from enemies to owners low walls of a construction not strongly helped. However it is necessary to consider, that initially the monastery settled down on the island formed by a bend of a channel of small river Udaj and a bog. This remote place was chosen for the monastery kievo-pecherskie by monks in 1600 To its history such outstanding persons as Petro the Tomb and Taras Shevchenko concern. She repeatedly worried hard times zapusteny and destructions. But, fortunately, has revived and now pleases pilgrims and tourists with unique architecture, is gentle-pink colour of walls and a melodious ringing of bells.

On prilukskoj district recently have established the index on Kachanovku. So it is possible to drive directly through Olshanku and Ivanitsu. It is However, expensive there not to the nervous. We pass 30 more km on the Sumy line, and we are met at turn by a monument kobzarju Ostapu Veresaju. The sculpture reminds, that in these places was born, and seditious "thoughts" about the tsar the most well-known Ukrainian national bard then sang. We turn off to Sokirintsam. Here the car the first serious test – some kilometres stony prosyolka expects. It is good that to lose the way it is impossible. The road itself deduces to majestic palace Galaganov (1823-25) Which is organically entered in landscape park. The complex is well familiar to much on one of teleserials of manufacture STS – cinema-men have placed here a madhouse. Actually, this present patrimonial landowner nest with which Galagany have started to equip since XVIII century At first manor was wooden, but for some decades owners have so strengthened the financial position that were dispersed on a high-grade dvortsovo-park complex, not worse, than at neighbours-saharozavodchikov. Here they long conducted the magnificent landowner life. Only Soviet power could select a palace at oppressors to use it for higher purposes – as agricultural technical school.

And here to neighbours not so has carried. The wave of "national anger» after 1917 has wiped about a remarkable palace in Trostjantse. There was only a park but what … Walking on shady avenues between picturesque hills, even it is difficult to present, that once it was absolutely flat site of the earth. Same how much thousand tons of the earth were necessary perevorotit manually to achieve such artificial relief! The modern landscape design with dwarfish Alpine hills has simply a rest. Here if Switzerland, to the full extent! Uncharacteristic coniferous trees for this region for planting brought already adult by the ships directly from the South America, has told to us casually met on avenue the guide. Services of a professional conductor and the story-teller here are desirable for using, as interesting it is a lot of. Therefore I will leave co-ordinates. Guide Zoe Geraldovna: (04633 24-784; park administration: (04633 24-924.

It is a pity, that the palace of the former owner of this beauty – Ivan Skoropadskogo, the representative of a known hetman sort was not saved. The best kinds open from that lawn where there was its wooden house in Gothic style with two towers. Two wings were partially saved only, but also they press repair. Now on a palace place there is an ordinary-looking case of children's sanatorium in style of the Soviet primitiveness. At least, it is possibility to spend the night at sharp necessity – some rooms is equipped for hotel service of tourists. And it is possible to use and services started to sprout here "green tourism". On a hospitable farmstead "Mislivska palanka" (street Asauljuka, 6; bodies: (097) 384-5205) you will find not only an exotic lodging for the night and a nourishing table under house tincture, but also will get to a private museum Skoropadsky. Its many personal things – an interior part. Never before I had not to have dinner in a museum behind a hetman table! To leave Trostjanets at all does not pull. It would be desirable to dissolve kosterok and to spend evening on the nature under reflexions about the lost cultural heritage of the Ukrainian nobility.

To the full such possibility can be realised in next Kachanovke. This by miracle the saved landowner corner as if is specially created for a romantic weekend. In this occasion we have grasped with ourselves the pickled meat and a skewer, not considering other necessary food, alcohol, disposable ware and coals for a grill. All provisions need to be carried with itself! In territory of a complex is not present not that shop – even a stall. But – some braziers, a place for which placing can be chosen on the taste. We have staked out a picturesque place over a mooring for boats, smart panoramas, both on the big pond, and on kachanovsky a palace whence open. There we come back after a supper where in one of wings the unpretentious hotel (bodies is arranged: (04633) 24-115, 24-125). In total for 30 grn. From a nose it is possible to spend the night practically in a palace! Conditions are poor enough: old furniture, absence of TV, one kitchen and two bathrooms with per capita on all ten numbers. But there is a boiler, it is possible to heat water. Places are desirable for reserving in advance – people flow on target happens big. If necessary it is possible to lodge for 60 grn. In the neighbourhood, in a complex of green tourism "Falcon farm" (with. Petrushovka; bodies: (04633) 24-134, (067) 956-6751) where is 2-3-комнатные hatki in the Ukrainian national style, a bath, a mow and even the improvised museum of a national life. The "artful" marketing course – turn on turkompleks in village is designated by the index "Museum". Many going to the Kachanovsky palace on simplicity sincere turn off for the first time here. Actually, arrival to a palace – through old gate at the bridge over small river.

And next morning – excursion on manor Tarnovsky. Initially the estate belonged to a certain court singer Kochanovsky, whence there was a name. Then it the cheerful field marshal Rumjantsev-Zadunajsky owned. But the greatest contribution to creation of a dvortsovo-park complex have brought Tarnovsky already in XIX century all Was saved simply phenomenally, thanks the local Soviet authorities of revolutionary times. Possibly, role that quantity of the greatest art workers which had time to be noted here for previous years has played: Shevchenkos, Kulish, Vrubel, Glinka … Now on the sly restore manor. Many internal premises of a palace are already ready. The exposition of picturesque photos from a life of count times, and also drawings and a photo of neighbouring landowner manors is very interesting.

I will remind what to come back better described above the expensive: through parafievku, Trostjanets and Sokirintsy. A line recently thoroughly podlatali, here and there even have shifted asphalt. There are also indexes, to ask road on each fork it is not necessary any more. Will be shorter directly to Priluk through Ivanitsu and Olshanku, but quality of a covering there is worse. The main thing to have patience and not to pay attention to a road hardship, and to concentrate on neighbouring landscapes. After all in bad road to Kachanovki there is also a advantage – it is possible to enjoy on a trip almost full loneliness …