Kamenets-Podolsk: there and back

Excursion on locks of Podolia – one of the most interesting rounds of the day off, and not only for admirers fortifikatsionnogo arts. It both magnificent landscapes, and special colour of small Podolsk small towns and original kitchen. And, certainly, bandzhi-dzhamping on the bridge the Running fallow deer over small river Smotrich. Kamenets-Podolsk konon became the first place in Ukraine where have organised jumps headfirst on an elastic band. To go better for 2-3 days, as the road only one way to Kamentsa (450 km) practically without stops occupies 5-6 hours even at a good high-speed mode. We had rigid enough time limit – could leave only on Friday evening, and should return were Sunday afternoon. Have checked up two basic routes: straight through Starokonstantinov and with a small hook through Vinnitsa.

There

Left Kiev towards evening, having taken away friends after job directly from office. To Zhitomir any adventures, and there have made the first stop for a supper – time approached to nine. The small restaurant name in a cellar on Big Berdichevsky near to the Cathedral area any more I will not remember. The meal was decent, but has most of all amused the menu containing such pearls, as "krivetki" (is visible, because curves) and «Barbie-Kju Wings» (poor Barbie …), and also price-list of the prices for broken ware and spoilt furniture (including the big mirror). Of a city got out already zatemno, hardly being guided on a map. A direction have chosen on Starokonstantinov – this road was obviously more shortly.

Personally I soon have regretted. Probably, in the afternoon there still it is possible to sweep with a breeze, but at night … Darkness impenetrable, it is expensive absolutely without a marking, it is a lot of holes, and here indexes poorly. Have few times lost the way, and once has not flown nearly in a haystack which stood directly on road! Has fallen out, to see, from a body of any tractor … To Starokonstantinova have reached zapolnoch. Forces rulit further any more was not, therefore, on navodke taxi drivers, have gone at once to local hotel. To find it it is easy – it is located directly in the centre, on the area. Conditions have appeared little bit better, than I counted, even hot water, apparently, was. Well and the bar has pleased with an abundance of good cognacs, ktorye under our impact have very quickly ended.

Here, in the former cultural centre of Volhynia, early in the morning have found also the first sights – Konstantin Ostrozhskogo's lock (1571) on the river Sluch and John Krestitelja's church (1754), and also a watchtower, javljajushchejusja the city card. The lock is now dilapidated and closed for visiting, as restoration then did not smell, in territory archeologists only were inertly dug, but it is possible to get there if very much it would be desirable. And in the most historical part the saving station now is located.

50 kilometres to Khmelnitskiy, and therefrom – direct road to Kamenets-Podolsk. Well not absolutely direct – on an entrance to a city it is necessary to overcome small, but very abrupt streamer. Passings there I do not recommend anybody even if ahead there is something strongly tihohodnoe. Very much avarijnoopasnyj a site!

There

It is expensive confidently conducts us to city centre, turning in parkway. In the centre – turn to the right and bruschataja the street leaves directly to the Novoplanovsky bridge conducting in heart of a thousand-year city. The old stone bridge over a canyon, a connecting Old and New city, is built, as speak, on the rests of the ancient bridge of the Roman construction. So – on one of informal versions Kamenets ancient Romans have once based. Journey free to park it is possible on the big Troitsk area on an opposite side. It is better to move on foot further – movement in an old part is limited by signs, but nobody watches observance PDD and at desire it is possible to drive directly to Zamkovomu to the bridge where there is a small parking of restaurant «Під bramoju».

The Old city is located on rocks, in a place where Smotrich does the big loop. An isthmus in due time have dug through also a city thus has come to be on original island with steep walls, unapproachable for enemies. At various times it belonged to the Galitsko-Volynsk princedom, Lithuania, Poland, Turkey and Russian empire that is to the full reflected in architecture. One of the most remarkable, in my opinion, monuments of merge of cultures – St. Peter and Paul's Catholic Church. In days of Turkish sovereignty it have transformed into a mosque, having attached a minaret. When the city has departed to the Poles, one of points of the peace treaty Turks have demanded to save a minaret. It have really saved, but from above, it is direct over the Arabian gold half moon, have attached a figure of Mother Divine which and tramples now feet on the main symbol of Islam.

Sights in an old part great variety. It and defensive shaft with walls and towers, and monasteries of Dominicans, Franciscans and Trinitariev, and orthodox Georgievsky church, and the Town hall, both picture gallery, and set of other cult and secular constructions. There are Armenian, Jewish, Polish and Russian quarters with the features in architecture. The uttermost cultural eclecticism. Each building has the history, and without the sensible guide not to understand. We have understood it at once and, not long thinking, have gone directly to office turfiry, that in an angular building on the Troitsk area, 7 (bodies: (03849) 25-450, 21-226). Also were not mistaken. The former director of a museum «Kamenets-Podolsk fortress» Igor Danilov dismissed in due time that wished to organise an exposition of the ancient weapon whereas its management has wished to create an ethnographic museum vyshivanok and glechikov on the ward of territory has appeared the owner. The pleasure nedyoshevo – 60 grn Costed. But in a current of the whole day we listened with delight to live stories of very interesting person who has been passionately carried away by military history and defensive architecture. It accompanied us and in Hotin, but about it hardly later.

It has recommended to us to lodge in private minihotel "Xenia" (Zhvanetsky shose, 3; bodies: (03849) 28-613, 20-379). It is located very successfully, directly behind a fortress, but by car it is necessary to go round through the centre. Two new cottages with numbers of various level of comfort. All with conveniences, good furniture and hot water round the clock a maximum for 100 grn. For dablrum, but is and is cheaper. There and then small restaurant and a sauna. It is possible to bargain with the mistress safely – percent 20 can dump. From other variants it is possible to recommend checked up by us next time quite European hotel "Arnica" (street Cathedral, 4; bodies: (03849) 31-817), that on 8th and 9th floor of sovok hotel "Смотрич" near to the Old city (double – 80 grn.) and solid "Filvarki-centre" (street Lesi of the Ukrainian; bodies: (03849) 33-231) in an old building in the silent area removed from the centre Russian filvarki (double - $20) with restaurant and a night club.

Excursion have begun, certainly, from a fortress which covers main (in those days) city gate (works without days off from 9:00 till). It was under construction and reconstructed with XII till XV centuries. In the beginning of XVII century from a West side the kamenno-earthen New lock has been completed, necessity in which has arisen in connection with occurrence of new receptions of obsidional fights and an artillery upgrade. The exposition is now extensive enough. It is possible much polazit on stone walls, to visit Tower Karmeljuka where contained in an imprisonment of the local tramp and the national hero, a vault with the chamber of tortures and the mechanical dummies representing under tsvetomuzyku scenes from the heroic past of a fortress. Impresses a well with depth of 36 metres and a debt hole where placed malicious defaulters of taxes. Well and a museum mentioned already vyshivanok. The fortress is restored and supported in a decent condition.

Further the road laid in Hotin, conducting the history with X-XI centuries when here there were Old Russian wooden strengthenings. To find not difficult – by a millenium of a city a fortress it is well restored and to it excellent access roads are laid. We leave the car on a parking near a stall with souvenirs and further we go on foot. Here it is really serious fortress! The walls which height reaches 40-60 metres, look monolithic and extremely powerful. Especially from the river. It seems, its attack to take simply useless. It not so. Hotin repeatedly became a place of grandiose fights and the Turk, Poles and the Ukrainian Cossacks passed from hands in hands. The history to us in detail is described by our guide. There are also terrible pages. For example, on a legend, in those days, that the fortress was unapproachable, in a wall immured the live girl. It is said that begin to flow on wall Hotina are tears …

And we come back in Kamenets in search of a good public catering. While here there is the best place for a pleasant supper, than small restaurant «Під bramoju» at zamkovogo no bridge. It is located directly in ancient serf premises with the ancient laying, decorated by the weapon and life subjects. Especially I recommend summer platforms with a kind for a fortress and a canyon. Service is focused on the Poles adoring local fortification. In the menu the Armenian motives dominate. Not surprisingly, Armenian diaspora in a city has the same ancient roots, as Polish and Jewish. The sharpest hashlama and chinahi under a kind portion of beer... Also mozheo to try a traditional Ukrainian cuisine at restaurant „gostinnyj a court yard” (street Troitsk, 1) if you are not irritated a little cheap "novorusskaja" with atmosphere. And after 23:00 a unique decent place for stomach saturation remains kabachyok, located in the Town hall building. There syrovato and zathlo (the premise is forbidden for heating), but it is very picturesque and cheap. There is also a wide range of typical modern cafes-restaurants and in the New city.

Back

To steam of words about dzhampinge. Zkstremalov among us was not, but a kind from the bridge over a canyon, whence sigajut headfirst on an elastic band, we have admired. Bewitching zreleshche, I will tell to you. For those who is interested, there are co-ordinates: firm "Gala-round" (bodies: (03849) 36-777, 30-805). Any inquiries and special preparation it is not required. Small instructing above, the signature under the contract in which you guarantee absence at us mental and any different illnesses of soul and heart, 200 grn. On a flank and «five, four, three, two, one, the JUMP!» …

To come back it is solved through Vinnitsa and Berdichev. After a dense breakfast in grown fond to us «Під bramoju» rulim back on Khmelnitskiy, and therefrom on a ring at the big refuelling (nearly has not forgotten on it the passenger who has left on need) we turn aside Vinnitsa. Road normal. And here we get in Medzhibozh. The attention involves at once the big, picturesque roadside complex with refuelling, restaurant and motel. In two kilometres on rural road is medzhibozhskaja a fortress. The city name occurs from a site. The fortress costs on merge of two rivers: Southern Bug and Buzhok, that on-drevneslavjanski means the God and the God. I.e. « Between gods »– mezhibozh. So it was called in days of the Kiev Russia. And Poles on the of manners began to name it Medzhibozhem. The stronghold in 1331 was erected by prince Korjatovich. Now a fortress in a pitiable condition. There is a small museum where old women-smotritelnitsy are glad to any visitor, ready to pay this unfortunate grivnju for excursion. But it is possible to climb free on the most picturesque ruins, to observe job of archeologists and to take pleasure in magnificent kinds from high walls. By the way, the city also is known as one of the centres hasidizma - here has lived the rest of a life and the founder of this orthodox current in Judaism Izrael Baal SHem Tov, known under name Besht has been buried in 1760.

Vinnitsa organically keeps within frameworks of this route also. – the small regional centre is quite worthy visitings. There are historical quarters, many old buildings and even something similar to a fortress. It is necessary to consider, that movement on the main street Cathedral is limited in the afternoon by signs, there often is on duty DAI. On a case of problems at us standard "excuse" – we not local is usually prepared and we go to hotel "Ukraine" (it just in the centre).

It is quite enough places for spending the night in a city. Solid visitors choose minihotel "Буржуй" (the lane Clear, 12; bodies: (0432) 27-95-90) on some numbers with the European level of service and the prices from 400 grn. Foreigners usually lodge there. Until recently hotel "Podolia" *** (Pushkin's street, 4 was considered as the best; bodies: (0432) 32-75-96, 32-16-89), but the price in 246 grn. For dablrum with bad repair and old santehnikoj it seems a little overestimated. In the main street the complex from two buildings on the different parties of the road, united by the general loud name at once is evident: « Sava-Vinnitsa »(street Cathedral, 69; bodies: (0432) 35-80-67) and"Sava-Ukraine"(street Kozitsky, 36; bodies: (0432) 52-08-88). Before revolution it really was that"Sava". Now the old name have decided to restore, but here on finishing of level of service to those old standards somehow is not has reached – conditions and service remained Soviet. We accepted ordinary-looking by sight hotel" Жовтнева "(street Pirogova, 2; bodies: (0432) 32-56-63) near to department store in the beginning Cathedral. Reconstructed numbers very cosy, with all conveniences and even a minibar (190 grn. For double). There is a closed parking.

Now the small list of places where it is possible is tasty to have dinner or spend good evening behind a beer mug:

• "Burzhuj" (the lane Clear, 12). A respectable institution in city centre with expensive interiors, good kitchen, pleasant music, but not always qualitative service. The VIP-hall for the non-smoking. The prices almost at level Kiev – nearby 30 grn. For hot.
• «Maklaud a pub» (street Sverdlova, 3а). The picturesque place in the centre with wooden interiors where to meat on coals submit 11 kinds of beer on draught, and on days off sounds a live saxophone. Cheaply, that is why more often happens it is crowded enough.
• "Pharaoh" (Gagarin's square). It is located near to the Central Department store, it is a little in depth. Expensive interior in the Egyptian style, visitors is met by waiters in corresponding dresses and the served tables in a hall and small booths with sofas. Live music, times pleasant enough. The tants-floor in the evenings works. The rich menu with the claim for exotic, cost of the basic dish – 15-20 grn.
• "Distances" (street Cathedral, 89). It is located in the centre, on a corner of street Cathedral and the Sokolov. Very stylish interior in the spirit of El Salvador Distances. Not loading background music with zhivim the flutist. Two halls, but in both it is impossible to smoke – it is necessary to leave on street. Average cost of the basic dish – 12-14 grn.

Other dominant of an old part of a city is, naturally, orthodox Preobrazhenskiy monastery based in 1616 in a counterbalance to Jesuits. Now operating orthodox cathedral, very majestic and beautiful. For first half XVII century blossoming of a city under the influence of Poland to that Vinnitsa is obliged by the majority of the most ancient architectural monuments has had. The most part from them is located in the New city on the right coast of Southern Bug ("new" it only concerning left-bank area the Old city where in an antiquity there was a first wooden fortress). The Trunk main is street Cathedral. The network of ancient streets a bunch disperses from the bridge through Bug. On them it is very interesting to walk, examining ancient brick small houses. In particular, along the street Kozitsky from a beautiful building of hotel "Ukraine" it is possible to get on the area with very original fire tower (1912) . The attention is deserved also by Temple Presvjatoj of Maiden Maria Angelskoj (street Cathedral, 12) with a nice court yard.

From other sights of a city the manor-museum of the founder of field medicine Pirogova with church-necropolis where he lived is most known and worked and where 114 years in church-mausoleum is stored it zabalzamirovannoe a body. The manor to be in smart park over lake at the very end of street Pirogova, church-tomb – in park in two kilometres from manor. We have spent for visiting of a museum of a few time. The exposition at all has not impressed (office Pirogova with its personal things is interesting only), it was pleasant to walk only on a well-groomed garden. The interested person will more deeply meet history Vinnichiny it is possible to recommend visiting of Regional museum of local lore (square Museum, 1; bodies: 32-26-71).

At last, most mysterious of Vinnitsa interesnostej – Hitler's rate Hitler's to rate "Vervolf". It absolutely nearby – 8 km from a city towards Zhitomir. No indexes are present, it is necessary to be guided by districts. In long village Strizhavka on a line it is looked out a bus stop "Camping". Opposite to refuelling – the very narrow asphalted path. We move to camping gate, and then more to the left, along a fence. The first coat leaves to the right, in a pine grove. Between trees fragments of powerful ferro-concrete designs already are seen. Round this place the set of legends, a trustworthy information, despite tens publications in a press goes, it is not enough. What real sizes of an underground part? Who and what for has blown up bunkers? What there, under the earth, it was still saved? During Soviet times the object, for the clear reasons, never joined in official tourist routes. In Strizhavke it is possible to observe only a monument to thousand prisoners of war shot on building. German investors already repeatedly suggested to create a memorial and a high-grade tourist infrastructure on a place of the rate. To them stably refuse. Having visited on ruins, I have understood why. On concrete fragments the inscription in German flaunts: «the Fuhrer lives in our hearts». The German tourist walking there looked at it absolutely easy. It would not be desirable, that Vinnitsa became neo-fascism "sanctuary".

Last point – the Jewish small town Berdichev sung in national songs. The attention an architectural complex of Berdichevsky historical and cultural reserve Here draws. Walls of an ancient fortress (ХV-ХV ІІІ centuries) with towers and a church based in 1627 Kiev voevodoj JAnushem Tyshkevichem and presented subsequently to an award Barefooted Karmelitov were saved. Now there is Santuary icons of Divine Mother Berdichevsky which has been consecrated and crowned by Pope John Paul II. The lock was again rendered habitable by monks and on the sly conduct restoration jobs.

Other monument – a church Sacred Barbarians (1759-1781) on the provincial olden time central and got by spirit Charles Libknehta's to street. In this temple in 1860 Balzac got married countess Evelinoj Gansky Onore de. A church operating, small, very picturesque both inside, and outside though until recently it was used as sports school. There is also a big orthodox Nikolaev church (1910) nearby.

I will add, that Berdichev should be passed through the centre to avoid killed roundabout, intended only for lorries. At least, until the high-grade district is constructed. Building already goes. It is difficult to tell, when, but in the future on all route from Kiev to Vinnitsa it will be possible to drive on good chetyryohpolosnoj to a line of type Odessa. While between Berdichev and Vinnitsej it is necessary to suffer.