On shevchenkovskim to places: from Morintsev to Kaneva

In Morintsah the big holiday – in village conduct gas! Fellow countrymen Tarasa Shevchenko in 190 years after its birth at last will join a civilisation – till now conditions of their life were able, close by times of the childhood of the poet. On a pitiable situation in the homeland of Kobzarja, including the Cherkassk villages Morintsy, Budishche and SHevchenkovo and since 1992 having the status of the State historical and cultural reserve, many mighty of this world making ritual pilgrimage for March anniversaries of the poet periodically pays attention. Apparently, something is already made. In particular, to reach all tourist objects easily enough, roads support in a decent condition. But, for example, the Shevchenkovsky national reserve in Kaneve – the most ancient historical and cultural reserve of Ukraine – is closed some years on repair. When it will open for visiting – it is not known. And all the same to visit the places which have given to the world powerful talent, and Ukraine – a national symbol, costs necessarily.

Full excursion on shevchenkovskim to places can be made for one day if to leave not too late. From Kiev to native land Kobzarja only 2-2,5 hours to a course in a quiet mode (about 200 km from the centre). But we have traditionally gone with spending the night. To go it is necessary on the Novoobuhovsky line through Kagarlyk to Korsun-Shevchenkovsky. The city is more connected with name Bogdana Khmelnitskiy, than Shevchenko, therefore in the centre this time it is possible not to call in at all. We go on district until, right after the bridge through ros, on the right will not appear the big roadside complex the "Wind-driven generator" which is switching on restaurant, hotel, a sauna and billiards. Here it is possible it is tasty and cheaply to have dinner, having tried the present Ukrainian cuisine (8 grn. For the basic dish), on road back.

From this place, opposite to "Wind-driven generator", there is a basic road on Morintsy and SHevchenkovo. Attention! Though shevchenkovskie villages are located on the right concerning a line, to turn it is necessary ON THE LEFT under the index on Lysjanku. The road will be brief still more to the left and will deduce under the bridge just in the opposite direction necessary to us. It is necessary to adhere all time to the main road and where will meet, indexes on Morintsy and SHevchenkovo (in particular further, the big crossroads in Steblyove and pochapintsah – in both cases need to be turned on the left). The Road surfacing everywhere from satisfactory to the good. There is still a route through the Site of ancient settlement and Olshanu but so longer and it is expensive worse.

So, the first point it is logical to visit Morintsy. Turn on a museum from the main road is noted by the index. In this village, in a hut the Copy, in Grigory's family and Kateriny Shevchenko in 1814 was born small Taras. Nearby – a small house of its grandfather Yakima Bajko. Both hatki, unfortunately, artificial – them have restored on drawings of the poet in 1989 with careful observance of technology and all features of national architecture, characteristic for this district. Behind houses very beautiful kind on jar, set with an orchard opens. An input in a museum free to pay in cash desk at parking it is possible only for excursion.

From Morintsev, again taki on main, we move aside SHevchenkovo. Through 10 km there will be the T-shaped crossroads noted by a sculpture small Tarasika with a lamb. SHevchenkovo will be at the left, but to begin with, having turned to the right, it is possible to call in in Budishche where the summer manor Engelgardov – owners of these earths in shevchenkovskie times is located. Near to entrance to village where the main road under a right angle leaves to the left – an input in park. The small avenue conducts directly to the one-storeyed house where there lived a family of the landowner earlier, and the high school now is located. Here Taras two years has lived "kazachkom" at Engelgarda, here drew the first pictures and hid them in a hollow of a huge 800-year-old oak which was saved and until now, propped up by metal beams.

And back, by an ancient windmill, straight on SHevchenkovo, were Kerelivku where there has passed a childhood of the poet. To lose the way difficultly – road to a museum from the village centre will prompt the index. Rather worthy end of the first part of excursion. Here it is necessary to visit Literary-memorial museum T. G.Shevchenko (with. SHevchenkovo; bodies: (04740) 52-362), which exhibits (including some originals) recreate course of life Kobzarja. The input costs only 1 grn., excursion – the five. Personally I was most of all amazed with the portrait of Shevchenko embroidered on a cloth, and is made so skilfully, that from distance in 3 m looks as hand-written butter. There is also the small house of parents too restored on drawings, and in «to a corf vyshnevom kolo huts» – a tomb of mother. And again taki magnificent kinds on jar, small river and wood. Carried SHevchenkam on landscapes. By the way, the unique construction which has saved from those times is hatka kerelivskogo the clerk who learnt to the reading and writing small Tarasika. It costs under glass in special pavilion absolutely near to a museum.

From places where was born Kobzar, to the earth in which it has found rest. We go in Kanev where on high more abruptly over Dnepr the poet is buried. From Morintsev to Korsunju it is possible to return the same road, and it is possible and through Olshanu and the Site of ancient settlement (consider, that between these two points there is a site of very bad road). To reach from Korsunja in Kanev straight on rural roads have not risked. It is easier and more reliable to return to Mironovki and there to turn aside Dnepr. The road normal, but is a small site betonki. Having driven from this party in Kanev, it is necessary to move directly along the street Kiev, smoothly passing in Lenin, to the big area with department store, and there more to the right on the main we get on street Shevchenko which conducts directly to Tarasovoj (CHernechej) a grief.

To begin with about hotels. One of the best variants for today – minihotel «Reigning mountain» (street Dneprovsky, 1; bodies: (04736) 35-583) with decent restaurant and a sauna with a fireplace. It is located on the bank of Dnepr in kilometre from mountain Chernechej, near to a beach. The usual double room with conveniences, hot water and even a minibar costs 90 grn., and with the conditioner - 120 grn. There are still junior suites and two-room lux with a balcony for 300. The arrangement in a resort zone is very attractive to use of hotel as "summer residence" on target. And it is possible to lodge in historical city centre «Old Kaneve» (Lenin's street, 17; bodies: (04736) 35-438) - too very worthy variant on comfort level, only is little bit more expensive - from 200 to 300 grn. For number. As alternative to these two variants the hotel "mountain Tarasova" (street Shevchenko, 2 can serve only; bodies: (04736) 22-272, 22-463) in a building similar to the case of pioneer camp. Is directly under mountain, on entrance to reserve. The minimum repair, absence of conveniences in many numbers, astable giving of hot water – all translates it in hotel in the category of exclusively spare variant. It is possible to live here only in lux for 100 grn., but there are also usual numbers for 65 (the prices as of 2002). On bezrybe and at sharp necessity can check up also regional hotel "Slavutich" (street Energetikov, 20) on entrance to a city from HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION – we have not risked.

To the city already, neither it is a lot of, nor it is not enough, 860 years. In 1144 the Jurevsky (Uspensky) cathedral (Lenin's street, 62) – an architectural monument of a princely epoch from which basis and it is accepted to conduct city annals here has been put in pawn. It is known also for that in him has staid 2 days a coffin with body Tarasa Shevchenko before him have buried on a grief Chernechej. It is located on Lenin's main area. At once behind it – Memorial park where it is possible to find A.Gajdara and O.Lenskogo's tombs with busts. Nearby there is Gaydar's literary museum (Lenin's street, 78) and a museum of a decorative folk art (Lenin's street, 64). Well and on the end of a city opposite from mountain Chernechej, at once for "UkrTatNaftoj" (by the way, here good gasoline and a unique car wash in a city), it is possible to find an armored train of times of war (Lenin's street, 141), being a monument to heroic defenders of a city. It is said that it regularly paint, but after a while from the return party from street it invariably appears painted graffiti.

On a grief Tarasovoj where there is a Shevchenkovsky national reserve (Kanev, mountain Tarasova; bodies: (04736) 42-368), we already happened time three, and all time reached by the car though from Kiev "Risings" on underwater wings here go (were faults with this type of transport, but, like, a route have restored). The first tourists are met by the old women trading vyshivankami (160-500 grn.) And others kanevskimi souvenirs. Purchases we will make after excursion. In spite of the fact that the highway noted by a sign «to the very top conducts Entrance is forbidden», at least for the first time it is necessary to rise on top on the long ladder numbering 342 steps. Lifting hard, but on road often there are benches and even a fountain "Lily". Overcome this test solemn atmosphere of memorial park with oak avenue meets, the biggest in Ukraine a monument of Shevchenko, a cross standing earlier on its tomb, first museum Kobzarja in small Ukrainian hatynke and the huge modern museum now closed on capital repairs. And certainly perfect kinds from a viewing platform. This one of few places where the protogenic Dnepr which has been not spoilt with water basins was saved.

Gone down downwards wait shashlychki on fresh air on two summer platforms with plastic little tables. If you wish to approach more seriously to a question of a satisfying of the hunger, go to the same «I Reign mountain», where decent enough kitchen and a beautiful kind to Dnepr (15 grn. For the basic dish). On the opposite end of a city, near to an armored train also was direct near "UkrTatNafty" the big summer restaurant complex "Tokarevka", stylised under the Ukrainian village is noticed, but about quality of kitchen of data is not present. In the centre everyone kanevchanin will specify, how in the best institution, on basement small restaurant of hotel «Old Kanev», only in the evenings there live music and dances to I will fall (not to everyone on taste such rest). As a last resort it is possible to look for livelihoods in modest and unpretentious cafe «Scarlet sails» at hotel "mountain Tarasova". Other points of public catering of a city which we checked at various times, do not maintain any criticism and can serve only for very fast and easy perekusa, vypivanija bokalchika beer or a coffee cup. What a pity, that the small restaurant of the Kiev network "Dezhavju" on quay was closed. Dorogovato there was for kanevskoj publics, kievljane called in seldom, here and has not taken out severe conditions of existence without visitors.

But do not despair. Very well to eat it is possible already on road to Kiev if to go through a dam on the left coast of Dnepr with magnificent kinds on the Kanevsky water basin (betonku on a dam podlatali – it is possible to drive without serious consequences). In that place where the road adjoins a line Kiev-Kremenchug, there is roadside restaurant "Мыслывець" (with. Sofievka, street Soviet 199; bodies: 8-047-37-40-410) networks «Trump map» (18 grn. For the basic dish). Kitchen and service – it is traditional at high level. This road to Kiev is little bit longer (145 km against 135), but slightly faster for the bill of a high-speed Borispolsky line. We have spent 2 hours only because generally moved very slowly. In total for two days nakatali 600 km. Home have returned with vyshivankami and deep feeling of familiarising with the great.

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It is logical to switch on excursion in the same trip in Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy. As it will be just on road if to come back from Kaneva on the left coast of Dnepr. The thematic binding also is present – Taras Shevchenko happened in perejaslave some times and even has written here well-known «Заповіт». Naturally, there is and a corresponding museum in manor of a family Kozachevsky, at which gosteval a poet. Now it is the Historical museum (street Shevchenko, 8), one of 25 museums of an annalistic city to whom it will soon be executed 1100. On a place ancient princely ditintsa, on merge Trubezha and Altos, the base of the Mihajlovsky cathedral of XI century which is covered by pavilion of the Museum of architecture of times of the Kiev Russia (street Moscow, 34) was saved. And since hetman times the city is known as a jail of the military union between Ukraine and Moskovia – Rejaslavsky are glad.

Basically in perejaslav go for the sake of the Museum of national architecture and a life organised as Kiev Pirogovo. Difference only in a regional orientation and bolshemu to a historical cut of an exposition, beginning from parking of the primitive person and finishing the house of the rich landowner of XIX century In territory also set of museums: an Ukrainian language rushnyka, histories pravoslavja, hleborobstva, transport, arts and crafts and even an outer space exploration museum. Exhibits, the truth, not bleshchut uniqueness. We like to walk simply on this huge park, examining ancient hatki and like colour of traditional Ukrainian village more. Road to a museum open-air to find very simply. It is necessary to move on perejaslavskoj district to a small outcome with refuelling on which there is an index "Museum".

It is literally in kilometre from this turn, on district, it is possible to have dinner nourishingly and vividly also in a rest complex "Smerekova a hut" on the bank of lake at wood. Service as for a province, quite at level, the national interior is sustained adequately, kitchen good. For 100 grn. For two it is possible to be full. However, in a hall it is impossible to smoke, but it is a problem only in the winter. In the summer all the same it is more pleasant to sit on air.