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The Chigirinsky Renaissance – in places Khmelnitskiy

Gladiolus
October, 2006

On road in CHigirin On CHerkasshchine there has come Renaissance. Four years ago, when we have found for the first time a freedom of movement thanks to the brand new car, literally next day have gone to the first big autotravel in places Bogdana Khmelnitskiy. In PLACES. After all except landscapes with bogdanovskih times here a little that was saved. Some old churches and tens-other modern monuments. That spontaneous trip to the companies of the friends-cherkaschan playing a role of conductors and guides, has left after itself few impressions. Probably, it is too much attention to me then it was necessary to give to process of finding of skills of management by a vehicle, too exhausting two-day travel seemed to the beginner. Has come to update time to us impressions about sights CHerkasshchiny. As it has appeared, at last has come to update time and sights.

Route map Having estimated different variants of routes, have decided to repeat, with the small corrective amendments, already checked up: Kiev – Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy – Cherkassy – CHigirin – Subboats – Cold JAr – Kirovograd – Dared – Korsun-Shevchenkovsky – Kiev. As practice has shown, on the left coast of Dnepr the road though and is longer, but it is much easier: less settlements with restrictions, there is even a slice avtobana between Kiev and Borispol. If our plans included this time visiting also Kaneva so and have gone back. As to quality of roads, in the summer and in the autumn it quite comprehensible almost everywhere. Bugristost and latki as a problem we will not consider. Especially, in many places capital reconstruction is spent. Small sites of really bad road have got only on Cherkassk district and at departure from Cold JAra on line М-04 in area Kamenki. For orientation already there is no necessity to be reserved maps-kilometrovkami – majority of sights is noted by indexes. Enough the detailed atlas of motorways.


Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy

Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy. A monument to Vladimir Glebovichu No, can construct in Ukraine avtoban if will want. It seems, a site between Kiev and Borispol – unique road to Ukraine, "Highway" noted by a desired green sign. Rightfully. It is a pity, that the pleasure of safe high-speed driving is quickly replaced by eternal toffees and numerous traffic lights of Borispol.

At church it is turned off to the right, the quiet and picturesque two-strip with rare settlements begins. For some reason I very much like this road. For unpretentious, but beautiful landscapes around, for picturesque roadside bazarchik with wattled furniture, for mysterious Scythian barrows in fields near Erkovtsov. To be dispersed at all does not pull.

Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy. The area Rejaslavsky Are glad The city-museum Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy meets numerous posters on which local sights are listed. It is a lot of them – 25 museums on one district! But indexes practically are not present, it is necessary to be guided on for a long time reserved map. Entrances to heart of annalistic Pereyaslavl in the city centre simply terrified until recently huge pools and perfidious potholes. It is possible to be glad only for passableness of ours "Forestera". « To rejoice »remains not for long – in a city long-awaited reconstruction at last has begun. On the started waste ground of the area Rejaslavsky Are glad restoration jobs are developed. Here in 1654 Bogdan Khmelnitskiy has signed the military-political union with Moskovia, such necessary at the moment of threat of restoration of hated Polish sovereignty, but poured out then know in what. Still then the Moscow boyars have refused to swear Bogdanu in reply to the oath of Cossacks to Russian tsar. Still then the hetman should reflect on"equality"of the union. Successors Khmelnitskiy have tried was to denounce the contract, but where there …

Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy. A Voznesensky cathedral Some more honeycombs of metres broken while small streets, and we at Mihajlovsky church (1646-66) on a place of the cathedral of princely times with the same name. Smotritelnitsy a museum of architecture of the Kiev Russia (streets Moscow, 34) which together with a museum of the Ukrainian clothes is based in the Episcopal palace, already learn us – visitors here a little. The main counter – to go down in pavilion over the dug out base of an ancient cathedral where it is possible to see original elements of Old Russian architecture. Here too there is a restoration – the city prepares for 1100 anniversary celebrating!

907 year is only the first written mention. For that moment perejaslav already was one of four largest cities of the Kiev Russia. On a legend, the local athlete has overcome during time of "a companionable meeting» with nomads of the representative of the "away team" which had a reputation invincible, than «pereja glory» to itself. Prince Vladimir has put in pawn here a powerful fortress, the Kiev metropolitans suited time residence while Sofia Kiev was under construction, and after Yaroslav the city became, on present classification, «the regional centre». Here reigned Vsevolod JAroslavich, Vladimir Monomah and Jury Dolgoruky. The silent corner were detintsa among fences of rural court yard reminds of former greatness a little. There are no either walls, or towers, gate – only later cult constructions. After all the city has gone through both tataro-Mongols, and Lithuanians, both Poles, and Cossack volnitsu, and Russian tsarism.

Perejaslav-Khmelnitskiy. A monument to reunion Of imperial times reminds an impressive Voznesensky cathedral (1695-1700) in square at charming provinciality of area Bogdana Khmelnitskiy where there is a monument to the Ukrainian-Russian friendship. The image of Ukraine in a kind divchiny with a plait round a head and the big folder in hands calls such unequivocal associations, that involuntarily start to select to it pair from a cohort of modern Russian women-politicians. On the other hand the areas, at Troitsk church in the street Shevchenko – at once some memorial museums and art galleries. However, special riches of an exposition not bleshchut.

Museum of national architecture. A Cossack camp Basically, in perejaslav go not for the sake of memorials and temples of the historical centre, and behind fragrant air of shady avenues of the Museum open-air. It at all that eternally filled with Intourists, grandiose on scales, but too basten Kiev Pirogovo. Here somehow it was possible to save the present spirit of the Ukrainian village. Such as we imagine it on Kotlyarevsky, Shevchenko and to Gogol. These blossoming on spring in apple-tree court yard, these garbuzy and sunflowers on well-groomed kitchen gardens, these lop-sided wooden churches and windmills. Here there is a house of the rich landowner and post station – all present brought from all area. And even the reconstructed Cossack camp with a paling and wooden towers. Let alone ten every possible museums. Walk can strongly be tightened. It is a pity that to be supported in territory there is no place – authentic korchma to destination does not function. For a dinner it is necessary to go to one of institutions on the district. The main entrance to a museum, by the way, too with district – is noted by the index.

Service. To have a dinner is better in trapeznoj «the Gold pheasant» on entrance to a city from Kiev. Cages with live pheasants in a court yard, a simple rural interior inside, photos of celebrities on walls, sound ethnic cuisine (25 grn. For the basic dish). In the end of district, near to turn to a museum of national architecture, tempts with rest on fresh air more democratic complex «Smerekova a hut» – 50 grn. For a dense dinner will suffice with a head. Soon here there will be also an ubiquitous autogrill "Mislivets" networks «Trump map». Operating "Mislivets" it is located further on a line – in Sofievke, at turn on Kanev. On a parking always many expensive cars that speaks about traditionally high level of an institution.


Cherkassy

Krasnogorsky monastery On a way at us a city with beautiful name Zolotonosha. Certificates of that here sometime namyvali gold, we have found – the name connect only with colour of a bottom of local small river. In the centre have decided not to call in, only the centenary Uspensky church there was saved. Were limited to visit to the Krasnogorsky monastery (XVII century) near antipovki, the way to which prompts the index on a line. The Preobrazhenskiy church directed up (1771) is more tremendous is in harmony with a hilly landscape of Red mountains. On small river ducks float, sisters-conventuals assiduously work in the fields. The idyllic mood is spoilt only by the severe security guard on an input – usages here very strict. Do not like in a sacred monastery of idle tourists, and we are not similar to pilgrims in any way.

Driving to Cherkassy from the left coast cross Dnepr on a ten-kilometre dam. Here always transport toffees, it is a lot of restrictions, in the middle the GAI more often is on duty. But it is possible to admire easy panoramas of a very large water mirror, utykannogo the picturesque islets casting dreams of fishing.

Cherkassy. Palace SHCHerbiny (REGISTRY OFFICE) When there was Cherkassy, anybody plainly does not know. In days of the Kiev Russia it there was the most southern suburb of the state where specially lodged buffer tribes of "frontier guards" which took up the first blows of nomads. Them also named "cherkasami", it is similar to later "Circassians". On a place of an ancient site of ancient settlement now the Hill of Glory with a monument "Native land-mother". At building of a monument mountain Zamkovuju have simply spoilt with strict geometrical forms, having destroyed the rests of the Cherkassk fortress of XVI century and Piously-Troitsk church. There was only a picturesque kind on plavni the Kremenchug water basin and square Bogdana Khmelnitskiy.

Cherkassy. B.Hmelnitskomu's monument. By the way, here in XV century the culture of the Ukrainian Cossacks which have extended for centuries by a considerable part of Ukraine, become stronger to an autonomy and actually issued in the state-republic with the form of board close to modern democracies, the truth with a military bias has started to be formed. The Supreme governor – the hetman – was selected in public, as a parliament prototype served Cossack are glad, there was even, invented in 1710 the former clerk Pilipom Orlikom, a constitution – first-ever! It is not surprising, that Cherkassy became one of the centres of Emancipating war – here Khmelnitskiy prepared the union with Russia. The copy of first letter Bogdana to Russian tsar Alexey Mihajlovichu is presented together with Cossack banners, the weapon and maps in museum of local lore (Glory street, 1). A monument to the hetman recently have established in the long parkway Shevchenko which an arrow dissects a city from the West on the east.

In general, sights in Cherkassy a little. It is possible to walk on a local Kreschatik with not numerous houses of XIX century, to glance in May Day park where several years ago have erected the biggest in the country the Mihajlovsky cathedral in height of 82 metres, to go on quay, to look among dneprovskih kruch on uzvoze Franc mysterious buddistsky for a monastery «White lotus», using bad criminal glory of totalitarian sect.

Purse. Preobrazhenskiy church And in 25 km upstream Dnepr it is necessary to glance in Purse village in which centre the Preobrazhenskiy church (1830-1840) towers surprising on architecture. The uttermost style eklektizm in which there is both romanticism, and a gothic style, and east motives, becomes clear if to consider, that the temple by order of the former owner of these earths of count Vorontsova who searched then for original forms for the palace in Alupke is constructed. In Moshnah the count in general experimented much – has spent scale melioratsionnye jobs, has put in pawn a grandiose formal garden (now – sanatorium "Мошногорье" territory) and even has floated the steamship first in Ukraine "Bee" riveted by hands local "kulibinyh". In general, a place interesting. Just will be on road if to go from Kiev to Cherkassy through Kanev.

Base of rest ' Selenium ' Service. In centre Cherkass involves with pleasant design and good service popular cafe "Сладкарница" (bul. Shevchenko, 195). The big publicity boards invite in a new institution of ethnic cuisine – korchmu «Taras Potatoes», us not checked up. The majority of hotels does not maintain criticism, and good – nedyoshevy. A double room in tryohzvyozdochnom "Dnepr" (street Frunze 13; bodies: (0472) 54-03-04) will manage in 310-430 grn. Not much more cheaply reconstructed numbers in unpretentious hotel "Central" (Lenin's street, 30; bodies: (0472) 45-21-70), but is also budgetary – on 100 grn. If evening walk on a country town is not included into plans, for rest it is better to choose new base of rest of "Selenium" on Dnepr (with. Svidivok, street Dahnovsky, 21; bodies: (0472) 36-20-28) with a sauna, pool, courts and even a mooring – from 375 grn. Nearby – nice summer small restaurant "Робинзон". Some capital firms for corporate actions choose also "Ukraine" in wood on city suburb (street Wood, 1; bodies: (0472) 32-10-52). Here there are entertainments for all tastes, including bowling, and dablrum costs 320 grn.


CHigirin

The flat Cossack on a flat game at a line, for some reason similar to the Red Army man as them represented on posters of an epoch Majakovsky. We drive in CHigirinshchinu – struggle epicentre for the Ukrainian independence of 1648-54. Indexes obligingly prompt directions to historical monuments.

CHigirin. B.Hmelnitskomu's monument CHigirin, capital of the Cossack state. From a very tall pedestal at top of mountain Zamkovoj us welcomes a hetman mace bronze Bogdan in an environment of aggressive representatives of insurgent people. The local fortress, since XVI century protecting a trading way to Crimea, became the main stronghold of "resistance movement», headed chigirinskim sotnikom Khmelnitskiy. Here, after many nice victories and humiliating peace treaties, it has based capital of the first independent Ukrainian state which were switching on then the Kiev, Chernigov and Bratslavsky earths. Under mountain there was a palace Khmelnitskiy, Spassky church, a town hall, others administrative and residential buildings. All it has been destroyed by Turks during the period, it is symbolical for CHigirina nazvanyj Ruinoj when the state, at indulgence of the Cossack leaders linked for the power, has been torn apart between Poland, Turkey and Russia.

Chigirinsky fortress. Bastion Doroshenko Now in territory of historical and cultural reserve building and restoration jobs boil. The strengthened hetman residence is restored, buildings of nine existing at Khmelnitskiy foreign embassies revive as a hotel complex, in were povetnoj to a justice (XIX century) already works the museum Khmelnitskiy, on a place of a Cossack cemetery costs a chapel Sacred Covers, in which perezahoroneny remains of defenders of a city. The mountain Zamkovuju is decorated again by""almost present"bastion Doroshenko – one of elements of ancient fortifications. While all it is surrounded by fences and heaps of building materials, access roads are not rolled up yet in asphalt, paths not zamoshcheny, kinds are spoilt by the building technics. But by a following tourist season the basic jobs promise to finish.

Building turmoil and in subbotove – in territory Zamchishcha restore an entail property Khmelnitskiy. Archeologists in parallel work. The Ilinsky church (1653) already sparkles the restored facade familiar each under image on pjatigrivennoj to a denomination.

Subboats. Ilinsky church Here was born Bogdan, here and upokoilsja. All life has been adhered to the house of the father – the register Cossack Mihajla who was «in the law» at the Polish king who has received for merits a title shljahticha and the real estate in subbotove. As a matter of fact, because of it Bogdan also has begun war. Poles could have the reliable vassal on southeast borders, but has come to mind local shljahtichu Chaplinsky to ruin a manor Khmelnitskiy, to mark to death the son and to withdraw his wife the Matron (from its consent, by the way), here and have received on the head. Not having found the truth in court, Bogdan with the elder son it was winded on Zaporozhye sech, bystrenko has agreed with Turks in Crimea, it was selected on good public relations the hetman and has gone to drive poles from the ethnic earths already to Lvov. It has returned the wife, but the family happiness did not leave – rebellious Matnonu have soon hung up on manor collars. Under the official version, for intention to run away with the lover, having taken hetman treasury.

Subboats. Three krinitsy After restoration of the Polish sovereignty Khmelnitskiy Poles have levelled the strengthened manor with the earth, and its tomb in Ilinsky church have ruined in the most blasphemous image. However, there is an assumption, that it was possible to Cossacks perezahoronit remains of the former leader. During Soviet times in a temple have arranged a museum, and now again spend services. The security guard on duty at parking place always is ready to call the guide which with inspiration will tell history of a sort Khmelnitskiy, pouring the bright story in the numerous poetic lines.

At last – «Three krinitsy», one more subbotovskaja sight. We go from the village centre under the index. On a legend, here, in deep jaru, once there was a Cossack hospital, and water from wells possessed certain curative properties. A compounding, indications to application and dosages to us are not known, but it is possible to be convinced personally by means of a wooden ladle, that voditsa in everyone differs on taste a little. Steps from small parking place conduct downwards by rural court yard, on collars extreme from which rough letters "is on sale" are deduced. Well, a perfect place for minihotel! But while the tourist infrastructure here is absent at all.


Cold JAr

Road through Cold JAr Through legendary Cold JAr there passes road from subbotova on Kamenku. Characteristic hilliness begins from Medvedevki, we drive to the gloomy deciduous wood, sparkling gold in beams of the autumn sun. The onboard computer authoritatively confirms a myth, that air temperature here always on pair degrees more low, than in district.

Concerning an origin of this difficult system of beams and ravines there are some versions – from banal volcanic, to absolutely exotic – as a result of meteorite falling. Upon, here it is possible to meet a large quantity of the unique plants which separate kinds were saved with dolednikovogo the period.

Cold JAr. The Matroninsky monastery Naturally, historical monuments of the most ancient times, since tripolskih and Scythian sites of ancient settlement suffice also. In the heart jara the strict Matroninsky monastery with Troitsk church (1804) flaunts. If to believe legends, one more Matron (a popular name in this country), the wife Kiev voevody Miroslava has based it one thousand years ago. Commander Yaroslav Mudrogo has constructed a fortress on the earths welcomed to it. And has then decided to check up vigilance of its defenders, and itself has gone on an attack, having got up the group to clothes of nomads. The matron has not understood «a humour joke» and almost has not with own hand killed the husband at the first skirmish. After that, clearly, to it there was one road – a fortress and have converted under a monastery. However, officially genealogical monastery conducts from 1568.

Cold JAr. Sklik The monastery strongly associates with Koliivshchinoj – here risen in XVIII century gajdamaki with Maxim Zaliznjakom at the head svjatili on a just cause of struggle against Poles the fighting sabres. The best a place for partizanshchiny really not to find. Try, be urged on for insurgents on thickets yes to ravines! Experience of the latent war fighters for the Ukrainian independence, in a current of four years since 1918 protecting from Bolsheviks have successfully adopted the small Holodnojarsky Republic – last stronghold UNR. In village Millers it is possible to find a memorable sign and a tomb of ataman Chuchupaki. And in Medvedevke there is a monument and to the Soviet guerrillas who have continued nice traditions in days of Great Domestic.

But most of all memorable places it is connected with Koliivshchinoj. Krinitsu Zaliznjaka and the monument to the hero is found in Medvedevke. Further – Atamansky park with the Gajdamatsky pond and a curative source "ZHivun". Here Sklik – a place where hung huge kazan, sounds of blows about which called Cossacks on a meeting. Village Buda – once here made gunpowder for guns of insurgents.

Cold JAr. Oak Zaliznjaka It will be possible to name safely the main centre of gravity of tourists. After all here there is monumental Oak Zaliznjaka – the oldest in Ukraine – at least, 1100! Only for the sake of this majestic giant who is clasped hardly by 6 persons, it is necessary to go in Cold JAr. Not it inspired one generation of freedom-loving persons on feats. Now here often arrange the dramatized representations with solemn reception in Cossacks, bringing the interested person in the ending of ceremony a pile gorilki on a sabre. Local, holodnojarskoj, manufactures kosarskogo factory «Cold JAr». On enterprise means in jaru numerous and detailed indexes are placed. Both the trade mark advertising, and to tourists the help.

Service. On line М-04 of an institution of a public catering often meet only more close to Kiev. In particular, big restaurant "Млин" around Korsun-Shevchenkovsky, storing still the Soviet traditions of hospitality. Therefore, at sharp necessity, it is better to drop in at once in unpretentious kafeshku which has settled down at a crossroads in Kamenke. Soljanku here prepare, apparently, from everything, that is in a refrigerator, but it is very nourishing.


Kirovograd

Kirovograd. B.Hmelnitskomu's monument Kamenku it is passed, it is time to search for a lodging for the night. To stop it is solved in Kirovograd is after all last, except Lugansk, the regional centre where we did not happen yet!

The first sight it is met even at entrance to the central part. The street Ordzhonikidze is crossed on the ancient brick bridge by the railway. Under it – narrow journey. We come up in an environment of industrial buildings of obviously pre-revolutionary origin. The central input, a fresh monument, the tablet: « Brothers Elvorti ». It appears, they are known English industrialists, in many respects thanks to which remote fortress Elisavetgrad has turned to the large industrial centre. In 1917 year at their factory making agricultural machinery, worked 7 thousand persons! Now the factory carries the army name« Red star »that hints at a certain defensive profile of a part of manufacture during the Soviet period. It was usual practice – to make tanks and a tractor as blind, to repair bronetehniku and, between times, civil cars. Factory Elvorti has become famous for the peace seeders, but during the First and the Second World let out shells and mortars. Details, I think, it is possible to learn in the museum of the factory which has taken places in the house of brothers Elvorti (street Ordzhonikidze, 1).

Kirovograd. A fortress St. Elisavety As the big admirers of ancient fortification, next day we have first of all gone to study a fortress Sacred Elisavety (XVIII century), noted on a map the big six-final star of earthen shaft. It was filled under the imperial order by the Serbs who have moved in these places. Mda … And so why I never met photos which would give at least the most general representation about this construction. As a matter of fact, it is simply correct geometrical system of shaft and the bastions, created in those days when the "advanced" artillery any more did not leave chances monumental and beautiful, but to too fragile fortresses of the late Middle Ages. What for to suffer with a stone laying, when easier and more effectively to fill the earthen hill, which already in itself will give advantage to the defending? The same unattractive fortress we saw in Nikolaev, but there though stone gate were saved …

Kirovograd. Theatre of Kropivnitsky In the rest the city has made strange impression. On the one hand, any hammered, rather dirty and completely not not focused on tourism. With another – wonderfully the saved spirit of XIX th century. The huge pleasure to walk by a historical part with one - two-storeyed building where in every second small house have settled down any firmochki, little shops, kafeshki. Something is restored, something is reconstructed, but somewhere so all and was earlier. The Greek church (1812), the Preobrazhenskiy cathedral (1819), Pokrovsk church (1849), the big brick synagogue (1853) – is not enough in what city of this region such quantity of old temples was saved. It is good to take a breath of fresh air in the Cavalry park, surrounded with ancient buildings of Junkersky school (1830), and now occupied by military men. Here – regional theatre of a name Kropivnitsky where the classical Ukrainian scene arose.

Farm Nadija. Summer theatre The interested history of the Ukrainian theatre I send to Nikolaevka, that in 20 km to the West from a city. To go I recommend on a line for Pervomaisk – and it is expensive better, and indexes are present. Near to this village in second half XIX centuries well-known Ukrainian theatrical family Tobilevichej has located, having created on the bank of small small river the present creative oasis – Farm Nadija – with romantic park, a pond and a theatrical scene open-air. All of them were, as a matter of fact, self-educated persons passionately carried away by theatre, as well as them «the ideological inspirer» Mark Kropivnitsky. Pseudonyms Tobilevichej – Karpenkos-Karyj, Sadovskys, Saksagansky – are familiar, I think, much. Here happened Maria Zankovetskaja and Michael Staritsky. On farm the first Ukrainian troupe rehearsed the performances which have become now by classics. Many of them have been written by the senior and most authoritative brother – Karpenko-Karym, whose name carries the Kiev theatrical institute. In park any magic creative atmosphere really reigns. Knowingly in memorial estate collectives from all Ukraine for a theatrical art holiday «Вересневі самоцвіти» every year are going to.

Farm Nadija. At house Tobilevichej Service. To lodge in the centre of Kirovograd well and cheaply practically it is impossible. Smart hotel "Каталунья" (Charles Marx's street, 21; bodies: (0522 24-25-36) pleases with good service, but frightens off by – from 500 grn. In tryohzvyozdochnoj to "Europe" (Charles Marx's street, 13/16; bodies: (0522 24-68-09) there are budgetary numbers on 240 grn., but with old furniture and santehnikoj. It is possible to receive the repaired junior suite For the same price in ordinary-looking hotel "Kiev" (Charles Marx's street, 50; bodies: (0522 24-49-66). But it is better to stop in motel "Liana" (bodies: (0522 30-13-72), that on departure from a city aside Umani. Comfortable numbers with all conveniences here offer all for 180 grn., and travelling on the car will interest presence of the gas station, a car wash and a supervised parking. Do not wish to spend evening in a city – at your service a picturesque hotel-restaurant complex «Eagle nest» (with. Subfathers, street Shevchenko, 47; bodies: (0522 51-466) on road to Znamenka where is banka with pool, lodochki and fishing – from 300 grn. For the double. And in the centre "pathosly" to have supper it is possible at restaurant or the same pizzeria "Kataluni".


Korsun-Shevchenkovsky

Razumovka. A tomb Raevsky Home we come back through Kamenku, Smelu and the Site of ancient settlement. These settlements also represent some interest for the tourist, but, frankly speaking, absolutely small. At first on a line there will be the colourful poster, inviting to visit in Razumovke a tomb of glorified general Nikolay Raevskogo, the war hero of 1812. The poster has seemed more interestingly, than Krestovozdvizhensky church (1833-55) over, however, picturesque enough breakage. In Kamenke it is possible to descend in park of manor of one more hero of a Patriotic War of Vasily Davidov (he/she is the well-known Denis Davidov's relative) where there is Tchaikovsky Oak, Pushkin's Grotto, the Green small house of Decembrists with a museum exposition (in particular, a grand piano which Tchaikovsky played), and also monuments to all these companions. Smelu and the Site of ancient settlement we also have at all passed, that a few time for last point of our travel – Korsun-Shevchenkovsky has sufficed.

Korsun-Shevchenkovsky. A monument of Shevchenko before a palace The entrance to manor Lopuhinyh on the bridge through a rocky canyon of small river Ros already in itself impresses. Before us impressive towers of entrance gate. The surprising palace on architecture in gently-salatovyh tones costs on a hill hardly above. To Lopukhin the manor has passed from a royal sort Ponjatovsky, and a palace have constructed on a place of an old Polish fortress. But history Korsun conducts since much more ancient times. It is one more thousand-year city on our route – it was put in pawn in 1032 on granite islands in the middle Rosi by Yaroslav Mudryj! The name it took from the Crimean Chersonese, whence in Russia the Christianity has extended. And that the word Russia has gone from these places, hints monument Rosichu on the bank of the river.

Korsun-Shevchenkovsky. Palace Lopuhinyh The history history, but picturesque landscape park with an eclectic romano-gotiko-Byzantian palace and itself makes indelible impression. It is possible to wander long under trees, finding various sculptural compositions, admiring river landscapes and simply breathing fresh air. Especially well here in the spring when the lilac violently blossoms. Atmosphere of a two hundred year's dvortsovo-park complex is spoilt a little by an exhibition of tanks and guns of times of the Second World War, and also an exposition of small arms and any subjects of general use inside. Korsun-Shevchenkovsky fight of 1944, certainly, important historical event, but somehow badly matches palace interiors. Restorer Igor working here has told, that the Historical museum will change in the near future orientation, having exposed the solid exposition devoted by Lopukhin-Demidov and other former owners of manor a little. Working with old documents, he has come across the letter of princess Lopuhinoj running from revolution to inhabitants Korsunja in which that asked to save a unique palace. Fortunately, townspeople did not feed hatred for local sirs – whirlwinds of social transformations have spared korsunskuju a pearl. In May, 2006 the first here has taken place Buzkovyj the ball reviving traditions of high life of XIX century.

Korsun-Shevchenkovsky. A kind on river ros And for our travel it is a place – also an original point of thematic excursions. In an exposition there is a diopama of Korsunsky fight of 1648 when armies Khmelnitskiy have crushed Pototsky's Polish army and Kalinovsky. This brilliant victory in fight with outnumbering, better the armed and more organised forces of the opponent has opened road Bogdanu on the West, to the borders of the Ukrainian ethnic earths. Many historians consider, that he could achieve much bigger, do not stop beyond Lvov, and having moved further to Warsaw. As they say, the history does not suffer a subjunctive mood. 350 years that bogdanova the fairy tale on the Ukrainian independence became bylju Were required.




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