Lvov-Krakow: on two capitals of Galicia

Similar, not the destiny to me to learn to stand on skis. For a long time planned to meet this New Year in Lvov, and Christmas – in Carpathians, in r-not Slavsky not to get far into mountains. But all has developed differently. Night with 31 on 1 should be spent from corporate reasons in a circle of colleagues, and here still friends suddenly have unexpectedly stated firm intention to go on all days off to Krakow. And with snow this year has not developed. And the good company so seldom comes across … More shortly, is solved. Again we go to Poland! As holidays have already begun, it was possible to be engaged in the visa only since January, 4th. Have decided to be by this time as it is possible more close to border not to lose time. In Lvov after all too there is a consulate! Gathering have occupied all half-day. Things the complete set of necessary maps and atlases is collected, picked up, the necessary data from the Internet are extorted, and in 2nd morning we have already left Kiev in the western direction.

Lvov

On an entrance have started to ring round hotels, that poblizhe to the centre. Planned in advance romantic «the Lock it is left» (Glinka's street, 7; bodies: (0322) 35-11-00, 35-11-02, 97-15-63) it has appeared it is occupied – numbers there very little. The same history with new hotel «At the Burgher» (street Ex, 73; bodies: (0322) 76-12-51, 76-95-80, 75-49-54, 96-65-69). In "Lvov" (avenue Chernovola, 7; bodies.: (0322) 79-22-72, 79-22-70) places were, but the hotel at all has not impressed with conditions and a price and quality parity. However, for budgetary spending the night it is one of the best variants – after all the hotel is located directly behind Opera theatre. But even at entrance have noticed the newcomer (last year has opened), hotel "Волтер" shining with fires (street Lipinsky, 60; bodies: (0322) 94-88-88, 94-88-89). It, of course, not the centre, but is close enough. It is convenient, that it is literally on the second big outcome from Kiev – to go deep into a city, to wander and kolbasitsja on a cobble-stone it is not necessary. Visiting retsepshena and the sightseeing tour under numbers has dispelled any doubts it it is much cosier, more convenient on an arrangement and is cheaper (from 180 grn. For double), than chetyryohzvyozdochnyj "Companion"! Now to all I will recommend.

This evening there was still a meeting with relatives of friends, short walk on an evening city, the supper in "Cactus" behind the next little table with one of «field commanders» orange revolution and an unexpected meeting in "Veronica" with passing transit from Carpathians one very known Kharkov business-vumen and the politician which it is direct before these we long was discussed :) (friends in due time have shot about it a small film).

And all next day has been devoted excursion on remarkable to the city of Lvov sporting to all Europe by architecture of the historical centre. At last there was an occasion to tell about him little bit more in detail. So …

Excursion is logical for beginning with Freedom prospectus – kernels of a political life of a city and the main thing tourist and "tusovochnogo" the centre. The Opera theatre of S.Krushelnitskoj here dominates (1900) which lvovjane it is proud name the third on beauty in the world after the Viennese and Odessa opera. The building facade is decorated by sculptural figures "Life" and "Art", statues "Glory", "Victory", "Love". It is necessary to come inside. For a modest payment here to you will organise excursion in which course will show shined with natural light of foyer, a hall with a huge chandelier from precious metals from the uppermost point (at us just there was "Nutcracker") and the well-known mirror hall with the pictures representing symbolical revolution of the season. There are still confidential rooms – personal apartments of emperor Frantsa-Iosifa with a bathroom and an exit in most "trump" imperial (now – presidential) to a box, but for their visiting the special permission is necessary.

In the middle of Freedom prospectus – brought from Argentina at the beginning of independence T.Shevchenko's monument and a little silly stela with the image of heroes of products of the poet. Behind it – one of facades of the Church of Jesuits (1610-30) with the stylised fortification and a turret in which mediocre enough small restaurant «Vezha крамарів» (avenue of Freedom, 16) is located. On other party of street, on a roof of a building of an ethnographic museum, you will find out unique in the world a sitting Statue of Freedom. On the opposite end of the prospectus – Mickiewicz's area with a monument to the great Polish poet and a figure of Divine Mother. There and then – a historical building of hotel "George".

We go deep into old quarters. If on street Russian to leave on Theatrical, at the left there will be a main baroque facade mentioned above a Jesuit church (one of the greatest cult constructions of a city), and on the right, on square Katedralnoj, St. Maria's rimo-Catholic Cathedral (1360-1479) with an ancient cemetery and chapel Boimov (from street Galitsky).

On Russian we enter the area the Market with the Town hall (1381-1827) in the centre, being a city symbol. The input in the Town hall is guarded by two lions holding boards with the arms of a city. On corners – statues of antique gods. On tower top it is possible to rise and inspect vicinities. A kind, speak, magnificent. We here were frightened of a strong wind with sleet and have not got, and it is a pity. Surround the area raznostilevye three-four-storeyed small houses (kamenitsy), most zametoj from which is Renaissance «Black kamenitsa» XIX centuries (the house №4). Now – the Lvov historical museum. Nearby – palace Kornjakta (1580) The most imposing building on the area (the house №6). Through an arch we get to the Italian court yard with the several statues, most interesting of which – a two-faced Themis and the Roman she-wolf. Here too a historical museum, and in podvalchike – cafe where prepare excellent coffee with different additives. In an angular building – «the Drugstore a museum» (street Drukarsaja, 2). There is an operating trading hall and an exposition of pharmaceutical sights in a cellar. A short-term stop I recommend to make in cafe «Під sinoju pljashkoju» in a building court yard on street Russian, 4. Small, picturesque and very popular among bohemia. The name – direct analogy to the first Viennese cafe «Під sinoju fljazhkoju», opened galichaninom Jury Kulchitskim in the Austrian capital in 1683

On street Serbian we get on Total. Here to a look the ensemble of the Bernardinsky monastery (1600-30), surrounded with a powerful defensive wall appears. In an interior – numerous wooden altars of XVIII century Actually, we have appeared on periphery of an old city and we will move further along the former city walls on street Basement. In the beginning we will see the City arsenal (1554-56) with an arcade, entering there is no time in a complex of defensive strengthenings of a city. The wall rests are visible opposite to Uspensky (Volozhsky) church (XVI-XVII centuries) with a 65-metre belltower in which it is necessary to look at a magnificent iconostasis and beautiful stained-glass windows. Nearby – a monument to first printer Fedorovu. Through road – a small stone small house. It is the Powder tower (1554-56) – one of east advanced posts of a city, and now – the House of the architect.

Again we turn off deep into quarters, on street Stavropogeevsky. To the right of Uspensky church there will be a Dominican church, and hardly further, on street Armenian, leave to the Armenian cathedral (1363-70). It is necessary to enter into a court yard, to recollect, what episode of "Three musketeers» acted in film in this place (about other well-known places of shootings this block-bastera to you will better tell local), to glance for a trellised fence on a cemetery, to consider sculptural groups of XV century " Uverovanie Fomy "and" St. Sofia with daughters ". The place very picturesque and invariably involves set of tourists. The next stop on coffee – cosy club-cafe" Дзига "(street Armenian, 35) with the ancient car at an input. At him – art gallery. Pictures, as well as any antiquarian subject of an interior of cafe, it is possible to buy – price lists are hanged out everywhere. By Preobrazhenskiy church we move back to Opera theatre. A final stop – a flea market in square on L.Ukrainki's street, here it is possible zataritsja souvenirs. The first part of excursion is ended.

Other sights are scattered on some removal from a historical kernel of a city. From Mickiewicz's square on Kopernik's street it is possible to leave to Pototsky's magnificent palace (1889-90) where the Lvov gallery of arts has settled down. It is a little aside if to move on street Slovak, near to I.Franko's park, the main case of the Lvov university (1877-81) is located Serving earlier a premise of the Galichsky diet. On a facade – sculptural groups "Jobs" and "Education", and also allegories "Galichina, Vistula and Dnestr". The obligatory program also includes High castle visiting. I think, all already know, that no lock there is present. It is simply high hill with a viewing platform, the magnificent panorama of a city whence opens. But, at desire, it is possible to find and the rests of fortification of the lock Polish voevody, taken in 1648 M.Krivonosa's armies. By the car it is possible to reach to a television centre, and further – on foot on a ladder. On the fan – visiting of the Lychakovsky cemetery well-known for a large quantity of monuments and compositions of jobs of known sculptors and architects, and also scandal round the Polish military memorial «the Cemetery of Eaglets».

Special conversation about Lvov knajpah, kavjarnjah and tsukernjah – their large quantity, and many are very picturesque. To describe all it is impossible. Here only the short list of the best institutions of cultural rest where it is possible to spend time well and is tasty to eat, with addresses and phones to reserve a little table:

• "Amadej", square Katedralnaja, 7; bodies: 297-80-22. An interior in the Austrian style, a summer platform, magnificent kitchen, very cosy and expensively enough.
• "Veronica", avenue Shevchenka, 21; bodies: 297-81-28. A confectioner's shop on the ground floor and small restaurant in a cellar, very good kitchen.
• «7 pigs», S.Bandery's street, 9; bodies: 97-55-58. An interior in national style, a truthful Ukrainian cuisine, a live folk music.
• "Dome", street Chajkovskogo, 37; bodies: 74-01-82. A little remote arrangement, an interior in the Austrian style of 30th years, the classical Lvov menu.
• "Cactus", street Nizhankovsky, 18; bodies: 74-50-61. An original interior with the easy Mexican motives, traditional, but good kitchen.
• "Split", Mickiewicz's square, 6/7; bodies: 298-71-33. A pub of this club – one of few places in the centre where it is possible to spend time with comfort after midnight.
• «Restoratsija on Total», street Total, 25; bodies: 272-59-73. A new institution with very stylish interiors and present galitskoj kitchen.

Pshemyshl

Good, have driven. Having refuelled under a neck (gasoline near to border aloud is worse Lvov) and having bought "grin-map" directly on refuelling, by 16.00 already were on border, transition SHegini. From our party of cars – a zero. At Poles it is necessary to stand a half-hour. At last we in the normal country! Have quickly reached to Pshemyshlja (Przemysl), having decided to make here the first stop. And that we pass each time by, and here after all too is what to look. And to get dark already the beginning.

Having checked up pair of hotels, for a lodging for the night have chosen Hotel Europejski ** (ul. Sowinskiego 4; tel: (016) 675-7100). It is convenient that practically in the centre, on the area at station, but is thus almost direct over the basic line – it is visible from road (on the right), even the map is not necessary to find. Conditions quite worthy, the price – 120 zloties for double with a breakfast. However, there is no parking – to have to put the car under windows. One more variant for fans of exotic – Hotelik Pod Baszta (ul. Sw. Kr. Jadwigi 4; tel: (016) 678-8268). The ancient two-storeyed building on a grief is direct under the lock with excellent kinds on a city, is cheap (59 zl), but is very ascetic also numbers without conveniences. Is from what to choose and to judges of the raised comfort: Hotel Albatros ***, Hotel Gromada ***, Hotel Marko ***.

Zloties in Pshemyshle it is possible to buy directly for grivnas at quite comprehensible course (1 zl = 1,8 grn.), as have made in the nearest cantor, having reserved by local currency on all trip. Just in case with itself there was also a credit card with the reserve sum.

From the tourist point of view small town on small river the Dignity interesting enough and with rich history. First of all us, naturally, the lock constructed in 1340 Kazimirom Great on a place of more ancient strengthening and later the Renaissance reconstructed in style has interested. It was saved not bad, but does not look too impressive – small and any toy, as in Kamentse-Podolsk. Now in him the theatre has settled down, and the restaurant in the summer works. Fans of military history know this city thanks to more serious fortifikatsionnym to constructions – the constructed Austro-Hungary in XIX century of a 45-kilometre defensive line «Fortress Pshemyshl» more. Consists of 15 basic, and also several tens minor forts, and it is considered the third on size after defensive constructions of Verdun and Antwerp. Somewhere here passed and «Line Molotova». To search for them we and have gone, though for this purpose there is a special tourist route and it is possible to approach on the majority of forts by the car. Were limited only to survey of the Cathedral rimo-Catholic cathedral (1460-1549) with a 71-metre belltower, the Church of Heart Iisusova (1626-32) and several other ancient churches and monasteries. And then have gone on the market area built up old kamenitsami and set with old any strange prickly trees, to search for livelihoods.

With this question in a city it has appeared more difficult. Almost all institutions of the central part, contrary to expectations, have appeared mediocre enough gendelykami. Having walked there-here, have returned on the Market where it was necessary to choose between closed though also very picturesque restaurant "Вырвигрош" and, fortunately, a working pub-pizzeria "Margarita". The rest of evening have stayed in podvalchike, ate a banal pizza, drank beer and recollected, that with Pshemyshlem one very drama moment of adventures of gallant soldier Shvejka when it was taken prisoner to Russian is connected.

Tarnov

Not reaching 20 km to Rzeszow, on road small town Lantsut (Lancut) lays. Here it is possible to glance in well saved lock of XVII century belonging before a dynasty of Pototskys – the largest Polish magnates who have equipped in due time and ours Uman. Has not done without landscape park and in Lantsute. Inside, despite German and Soviet occupation, magnificent interiors and set of products of arts were saved. Speak, Germans in the end of war have taken out from here more than 600 chests of various valuable things, but also remains it is a lot of. And in the former stables the unique museum of carriages – more than 500 pieces is arranged. Here (in sense, in the lock, instead of in stables), if necessary, it is possible and to spend the night for 120 zl for two in one-stars zamkovoj to hotel with all conveniences (tel: (48-17) 225-2671), as in due time colleague KISERG. We to be late did not become.

The big stop have again made in Tarnow (Tarnow). The lock here is not present, but medieval building of the historical centre was well saved. A little advice – having driven from Rzeszow, it is necessary to move all time directly on street Lvov, under indexes on city centre, yet will not rest against a sign «entrance it is forbidden». Here it is necessary to turn on the left, on Dobrovsky, and, it is literally in 2 quarters, will see the big supermarket with a huge parking where it is possible to throw free of charge the car for unlimited time. City centre okoltsovan oval street where there were city walls earlier. In the centre – the traditional market area with an interesting rectangular Gothic town hall of XIV century, surrounded with ancient Renaissance stone small houses. Here – office of the tourist information. Behind a corner – very beautiful Cathedral of Christmas of the Virgin of the same epoch with wall gravestones inside and a monument to Pope John Paul II, it Karol Joseph Wojtyla from Vadovitsy. In general, traditional provincial medieval small town.

If there is time, beyond Tarnow it is necessary to visit also lock Debno (Debno). As the guidebook says, it is unique in Poland so well saved knightly residence of XV century in style of a late gothic style and the early Renaissance. Inside there is an exposition of interiors, a knightly hall, zamkovaja a chapel, a treasury. Annually, in September, there passes knightly tournament for gold braid Tarluvny – one of proprietresses of the lock. At us, unfortunately, time was not – very much it would be desirable to reach Krakow before dark.

Krakow

Evening Krakow is good not less, than day. Walked late: admired the illuminated buildings, touched souvenirs, ate traditional sausages in the Main Market, drank not less traditional hot wine, proinspektirovali pair of vegetable marrows and, at last, have gone to sleep.

The next day has been completely devoted excursion on a city which I will describe kratenko for descendants.

We have begun, it is natural with Vavelja (Wawel), ancient residence of the Polish kings on the Vavelsky hill, switching on a royal castle, a cathedral and system of defensive strengthenings. «From here is the Polish earth and ancient Krakow has gone». On a legend, prince Krak has based it somewhere in VI century, whose daughter Vanda has made a traditional suicide at then princely daughters – has rushed to Vistula, I follow banal, but to subject course very popular in those days, not wishing to become the wife of the German knight. But son Kraka who has killed artful and greedy for pets and beautiful girls of dragon Smoke, living in a cave under mountain became the present hero. To the noble hero (under other versions it was certain shoemaker Shevchik, or even prince Krak) was necessary to resort to cunning – to palm off on a monster a stuffed animal of the ram filled by pitch and sulphur, having tried which unfortunate and has died. Has burst, satisfying thirst waters of Vistula. Now it costs at a hill in the form of a monument, protecting an input in a cave, and sometimes vomits a flame. I do not know, whether there was such cave in antiquities, but now this children's attraction it is necessary to visit, the truth only in the summer and only in the end of excursion, as an input from above, and an exit – from below.

In 1038 king Kazimir Obnovitel has made Krakow capital of the Polish state. In a consequence, Vavel became one of the main residences of kings of dynasty Pjastov, and, at board Jagellonov, has reached the greatest blossoming. All this time the lock grew, was reconstructed and became stronger.

At first it is possible to glance in St. Stanislav and Vaclav's Cathedral (1364) in which all Polish kings were crowned almost. There and then them also buried – a circle, so to say, became isolated. Over an input three bones of prehistoric animals found once in vicinities hang: a whale, a mammoth and a rhinoceros. But many confirm, what is it remains of dragon Smoke. In the cathedral centre the Fatherland Altar to which kings assigned military trophies settles down. Here there are royal sarcophagi, Adam Mickiewicz's crypt, Tadeusha Kostyushko's tomb and other national heroes, and in one of towers – the biggest in Poland bell Sigizmund to which it is possible to walk upstairs. Further – the big campaign in zamkovyj a palace (XVI century) With the Italian court yard: Royal rooms with ancient gobelins, Apartments with a hall «Under heads», the Treasury and the Armory Museum with koronatsionnym sword SHCHerbtsom, an exhibition «Lost Vavel». Here it is necessary to buy tickets, and in each museum separately. Try to get before, and that they work under individual schedules and, happens, only in the forenoon. We here again could not visit a treasury. Have taken rest, had a drink kofejku (the restaurant and cafe works, and in the summer – an open terrace) and have gone further.

First of all we left on Planty. So the long park surrounding on perimetre all Old city on that place where there were city walls is called. Now their outlines with 45 towers are noted on the earth by a contour. If to move clockwise, at first there will be a brick building of the Theological seminary (1899-1902) where studied and the present Pope, then a wall of the Archaeological museum (byvshyj taught a monastery barefooted karmelitov, and then the Austrian prison), then a building of a monastery of Franciscans, hardly further – the Episcopal palace with the first monument to John Paul II in a court yard. We approach to the "new" case of the Jagellonsky university based Kazimirom Great still in 1364 – one of the oldest in Europe. Inside we interesting have not found out anything, but, having bypassed a building at the left, it is possible to get to old case Collegium Maius (XV century) With very picturesque court yard and a university museum. Speak, one of the most beautiful Gothic constructions in a city. St. Anna's university church where there pass «the first calls» - joint divine services of professors and the best students in the beginning of academic year will be a following building on Plantah. To us has carried, as on the occasion of holidays the church has been opened for free visiting. A following building, angular and unsightly by sight, it «the Bunker of arts» - so name modern art Gallery. Then – in a counterbalance to it, very beautiful Renaissance Palace of arts of XIX century Further – a huge white building of the Church of reformers. The house on an opposite side of street with the globe above – anything interesting, simply former Chamber of commerce from here is evident. At last, by a pond with island, the bridge and a fountain, we approach to the unique saved fragments of city strengthenings. The round construction is Barbakan, the advanced bastion before the main entrance collars. Through road, on area Matejki, «the Grjunvaldsky monument» to king Vladislav Jagello in honour of a victory over crusaders is seen. And from underside Barbakana – Floriansky gate and fragments of defensive walls. It is everything, that remains from city strengthenings after the Austrians in XIX century, being afraid of rebellious moods krakovjan, such barbarous way have deprived a defensibility city.

From Floriansky gate the most vain part of excursion – the Royal road eternally filled with tourists, staring at show-windows of expensive boutiques begins. To begin with, it is possible to curtail at once from street Floriansky (Florianska) to the right, along a wall with an exhibition-sale of products of modern artists and a historical building of hotel «Under a white eagle» (1858) Under a picturesque arch, in the beginning of street St. Yana (Sw. Jana) where in the house №19 the Museum Chartorysky is located. It is considered one of the most interesting museums of Krakow, in many respects thanks to well-known «to the Lady with an ermine» Leonardo da Vinci, become to one of city symbols, as "Dzhokonda" in Paris or "David" in Florence. One more masterpiece – «the Landscape with the merciful Samaritan» Rembrandt. And, of course, nobody will be left indifferent by a remarkable collection of the weapon and an armour. But consider, that the museum works only till 15.30, except Monday. We here were not in time, so it was necessary to return next day. For now have continued walk on Floriansky.

As all already had time to get a bit tired, the following sight became also a time haven. This most well-known Krakow cafe - «Hole Mihalika» (Jama Michalika) in the house №45, existing since 1895 as «the Lvov confectioner's shop» (founder Jan Mihalik studied in confectionery business in Lvov). Visitors have renamed Into its "hole" – the Krakow bohemia very respecting this institution that, in case of a heavy financial position, it was possible to pay off with the pictures. They are hanged out till now on walls – the interior throughout more than hundred years never varied. Here there was a well-known cabaret «the Green ball», and the tradition of performances on Fridays and Saturdays was saved and until now. Further on Floriansky there is a house a-museum of well-known Polish artist Yana Matejki, then – a pharmacology Museum. From an opposite side – hotel «Under a rose» (Pod Roza), operating already since 1805 In the rest it is simply walking street – the Krakow promenade – the most convenient and most expensive place for shopping.

Well, here we also have come to the heart of Krakow, on the area the Main Market (Rynek Glowny), with its cathedral, a town hall tower, cloth numbers, souvenir trays, wine casks, booths-barbecues, tourists and invariable pigeons. A traditional place of a meeting which appoint all everything, - a monument to Mickiewicz (it is the Polish Shevchenko). Over the area two spikes St. Maria's Basils (1287-1320), one of the most beautiful and the most original in Europe tower. A Mariatsky church never with what you will not mix thanks to that towers different. On a legend, they were built by two brothers. One of them has decided to surpass another, and began to build higher. « Lagging behind », in a competition fuse, has killed the contender, and, as a result, to finish a smog only the tower which all the same has appeared higher. Each hour from it pipe sounds are distributed. On one more legend, once the observer on a tower has noticed in time approach of Tatars and has given the alarm, but has not had time to finish a melody, struck by the Tatar arrow. The melody which hourly execute on four parties, each time unexpectedly breaks and now. The church needs to be visited, it very beautiful inside, only to come it is necessary from a lateral input. Main – for parishioners. The tower on the opposite end of the area is everything, that remains from the Town hall (1316) . Upward, at desire, it is possible to rise to look at the area from the point of view of pigeons. Nearby there is a small church St. Vojcheha (XI), one of the oldest in a city. Such old, that its basic part is on one and a half metre below present level of the earth. Now in him an archaeological museum. On perimetre the area is built up by numerous buildings of different epoch, since XIV century, each of which has the history. And on the centre Cloth numbers (Sukiennice), constructed in 1300 and repeatedly reconstructed have settled down. Here it is logical to finish excursion, walking between numerous souvenir benches.

We have moved also in Kazimezh (Kazimierz) – old Jewish quarters, following further on Royal road which on street Grodsky (Grodzka) deduces back to Vavelju. Here too it is a lot of sights. For example, on crowded square of All Sacred where Grodsky crosses a tram, on the one hand – the main facade of a church of Franciscans (XIII century) with fantastic colour stained-glass windows, and with another – the Dominican church of the St. Trinity. Further on Royal road it is possible to see St. Peter and Paul's baroque church (XVII century) with statues of twelve apostles, or gloomy by sight and St. Igor's very ancient church (1079-98) in Romance style. Especially impress in evening illumination. Here the Royal road turns off to the right, on Kanonichnuju (Kanoniczna) to leave direct to the main collars of a royal castle. And we have gone directly, till the end of Grodsky, and further on Stradomsky (Stradomska), looking back on shone in darkness majestic Vavel.

To visit Kazimezh late at night I do not recommend. Has put, in general, at all in raised kriminagennosti this area, us absolutely not not noticed. Simply here much less the illumination, much can to be seen simply, and that will see – will look too gloomy. Earlier Kazimizh was the separate city constructed in XIV century Kazimirom Great in a counterbalance to Krakow, but soon both cities have united. Centre Kazimezha is the street Wide (Szeroka), more similar to the area. Here everywhere synagogues: the Old synagogue very first in Krakow (1407) with the Jewish museum, Synagogue Remu (1553) with the Renaissance cemetery with the same name, the High synagogue (1556-63) And a small small house where there was a Synagogue on the Hill earlier. Two More synagogues are on street Honey (Miodowa), near to the New area (pl. Nowy), on which centre – the Jewish Roundish market. For us the campaign in Kazimezh was faster ritual – the Jewish architecture personally on me does not make any impression. But to breathe atmosphere of "the Krakow Hem» nevertheless it is interesting. For this purpose it is necessary to visit local cafes and small restaurants. On street Wide their large quantity and all picturesque. It is considered most well-known of them «Ariel» (Szeroka, 17), but it is better to take a walk and choose that to liking.

We have decided and to arrive and before by three more churches to leave to Vistula and further to our hotel, have at last come in attracted to us from street the cosy conditions zalchik. It was cafe in style of apartment when visitors directly from street get to cosy house conditions with usual armchairs, sofas and little tables, photos on walls and other attributes of private habitation. And all anything, only is strong the barman-waiter has entered into a role of the hospitable owner (though, can, it and was the owner?) – standing it already simply did not stand, long tried to understand, that we want some four teas, and then has simply taken seat in an armchair and with an absent kind has stared in one point. The couple behind the next little table only laughed. Colour it is, of course, good, but we to tea wanted …

Some words about «Krakow kabatskom» where we fell every evening to search unique atmosphere Krakow pivnits. Such, as in popular club Pod Jaszczurami (Rynek Glowny, 8) where the Krakow students are going to to study a science of the use of amusing drinks. It is a lot of similar institutions everywhere, and it is necessary to search for the most picturesque in vaulted cellars and gates of imperceptible houses on minor small streets. I will not give orientation is should remain the fascinating individual program for everyone, with the small opening and unexpectedness. A today's special in the majority of institutions – beer of local grades: «Zywiec», «Okocim», «EB», «Warka», «Lech», etc. We also without fail suit each time tasting of strong national drinks of type of liquors and tinctures: « Zubrovka »(Zubrowka),"Vishnyovka"(Wisniowka),"Krupnik"(Krupnik, honey tincture),"Slivovitsa"(Sliwowica, muck),"Piolunovka"(Piolunowka, very rare piece, is pleasant to me most of all) and t.d. Though the most well-known are"Vyborova"(Wyborowa),"Ljuksusova"(Luksusowa) and"Stark"(Starka), but it simply vodka that it to try. :) However, pleasure not cheap – strong alcohol in Poland road, from 4,5 zl for a portion (40 gr) in bars. I will notice, that in many pivnitsah it is accepted – to reserve and take away self-service the order it is necessary directly at a rack. However I will list some the checked up small restaurants of ethnic cuisine in the centre, after all to visit Krakow and not to try bigos (stewed cabbage with meat and a string bean), fljachki (soup with potroshkami) and golonku (the pork leg) is a nonsense.

• «Hawelka», Rynek Glowny 34. Legendary restaurant in the Main Market with 120-year-old traditions, expensive and pathos. Traditional staropolskaja kitchen, including mushroom soup in charke from bread.
• «Gospoda u Zdzicha», Rynek Glowny, 24. Small restaurant in is conditional-rural style directly on the main area, and with rather reasonable prices.
• «Chlopskie Jadlo», ul. Jana, 3; ul. Sw. Agneszki, 1. Two institutions of a network of small restaurants of ethnic cuisine in the centre. The truthful fat and nourishing country meal, a corresponding interior.
• «C.K. Browar», ul. Podwale, 6-7. «Royal brewery» about theatre "Bagatela", on Plantah where cook the present live beer. But also to have a bite it is possible.
• «Morskie Oko», pl. Szczepanski, 8. Small restaurant in zakopanskom style (Polish Gutsulshchina) with live folklore music.
• «U Zalipianek», Szewska, 24. Very picturesque and not tourist staropolskoe cafe on Plantah which contingent make, basically, local old men and old women. The present and inexpensive Krakow kitchen.

Krakovija

In the Rock centre – «square circular movement», our direction on Ojtsov (Ojcow) and Peskovu the Rock (Pieskowa Skala). Through some kilometres a fork - Ojtsov on the left, and Peskova the Rock to the right. We in these places already happened during last trip, and here to friends here all was vpervoj. Resort settlement Ojtsov (we like to name it OjKov more :) is the centre of Ojtsovsky national park, «the Polish Switzerland». There there are hotels and bases of rest, otuda numerous pedestrian and bicycle routes begin. Places really very beautiful. An elaborate mountain relief, narrow rivulets, a fantastic stone «the Oat-flakes Mace» over road, lock ruins on a rock over itself Ojtsovym, one more perfectly saved Renaissance lock Peskova the Rock – one of Eagle nests, chains of locks XIV-XV of centuries on limy rocks in foothills of Tatra mountains which have started to erect at Kazimire Great for protection of southern boundaries of the country.

In the last we have glanced in a museum. The lock Gothic was primary, but in XVI century it have reconstructed in fashionable then in Poland "vavelskom" style – have attached various balconies and curls, and in the middle have arranged an arch court yard. The perfect manor in mountains has turned out. Not bleshchet riches of an exposition, but it is interesting to look a museum at real medieval subjects of a life: furniture, the utensils, any tablewares etc. And, it is free – once a month arranges free visiting, and we just on it have got. And here to have a drink coffee in zamkovom small restaurant it has not turned out. But the sun has looked out and it was possible to admire magnificent kinds from a terrace.

In vicinities of Krakow, in a direction on the northwest, it is a lot of locks. It both Rudno, and Rabshtin, both Siverzh, and Ogrozhinets. For one short winter day everywhere you will not visit. It was necessary to choose.

Lock Bedzhin (Bedzin) became following our purpose. Kilometres 15 on prosyolku, then departure on a line Krakow-Katowice. At Dabrowa Gornicza – huge factory-monster "Huta-Katovitse", striking contrast with calmness and tranquility of "the Polish Switzerland». On entrance to Katowice – an outcome, to us to the right. Settlements pass one in another, at last, begins Bedzhin. We move to the centre where on a small hill, in an environment of constructions in style of a socialist realism, huddles by miracle the saved small medieval castle. The beginnings to build it still Boleslav Stydlivyj, and finished after it in XIV century Kazimir Great. In those days it was much more in the sizes, and now very compact and "brought down". The museum was just closed, and we needed to fall only to an easy dinner in zamkovom small restaurant. There was it too easy. From all the menu available was "borshchok" and more any "supchik", and also traditional bigos. Though somehow to satisfy hunger last has helped only. "Borshchok" it has appeared at all a borsch in our understanding of a word, and simply strong beet broth submitted in a glass. We already knew this Polish trick, and here friends very much were surprised.

To be eaten off it was necessary already in Krakow where we have returned in twilight. A supper in one of ethnic cuisine small restaurants, then still beer in basement vegetable marrows. We "gathered additionally" the Krakow atmosphere last day stay in a city.

On the Way of eagle nests

Further we go on the southeast. Even at entrance to small town Are new Visnich (Nowy Wisnicz) at mountain top the majestic and mighty lock in style of early baroque (XVII century) is seen – The former residence Kmitov and Ljubomirsky. From the small town centre the narrow path upward conducts. To park above, apparently, it is impossible, but cars there stand directly at walls, to keep order there is nobody, and we follow them to "a bad example». :) The tablet at an input says, that on days off the lock is closed – so too happens. But to us has carried – on spetszakazu lead excursion for the Russian-speaking tourists who have arrived by the big bus with Ukrainian numbers, and we use the moment. Feature of residence is the combination of the serf and zamkovoj architecture. The lock is as though concluded in a fortress, i.e. there is a double line of defence. This style is called plazzo i fortezza. In zamkovyh premises the exhibition devoted to its history and restoration, and a museum of copper utensils works, but there to get any more it is not possible. And in one of serf casemates hotel Hotel Kmita (tel has cosy settled down next on our way zamkovaja: (0-14) 612-88-25), but it works only in the summer. Probably, in the winter of clients does not suffice. Really, visitors in unit lock, short of group of making a din compatriots.

The district begins more and more hilly, we gradually get in karpatskie foothills. In a city Are new Sonch (Nowy Sacz) we turn off under the index in the centre. On the right, on a hill, the lonely tower of the lock (1350-60) with fortification fragments sticks out. Has appeared in days of boom zamkovogo buildings in Poland, but only the pity rests up to now have reached. Therefore we pass by. The building of a city town hall (1898) is much more interesting. It is strongly allocated among similar administrative structures in small cities of Poland. It is constructed in style of the Renaissance on a place of the burnt down old town hall, it is very richly issued and it is badly entered in a simple medieval environment of the historical centre. Nearby an interesting church over breakage – it it is well visible from a line.

Time presses, winter day quickly approaches end. We decide to move on the east on good roads as it is possible longer, despite darkness, and to stay the night somewhere near to border. Just in case we call in on refuelling to fill up vital forces of the machine (3,5 zl for litre – the present European price, but, actually, on all trip within Poland one tank of the Ukrainian gasoline has sufficed exactly) and the – at roadside small restaurant. The mountain site of a line begins. On a way some passes though also low, but after all it is almost dark already and to wind it is necessary well. In one place of all the ten warning signs and the huge arrows specifying in very dangerous turn over a precipice forces to become silent. And there and then the big cross. To see, it is a lot of to people poleglo on this site. The Polish roads have not brought – the marking in darkness is shone, and signs and fairly warn in time about dangers (if it is written «40», means, on higher speed it is impossible to drive really).

Already in full darkness have driven Sanok (Sanok), and not having made out with road a royal castle erected in 1340 all at same great Polish zamkostroitele Kazimire Great. For this purpose it was necessary to turn in the centre, and to us to turn off from road it would not be desirable at all. It is a pity, the small town was assumed interesting enough, with well saved medieval building of the historical centre. Somewhere here and a museum of national architecture – Polish Pirogovo.

To evening of profit in Krasichin (Krasiczyn). The map of locks urgently recommends to visit here dvortsovo-park complex XVI-XVII centuries Not only that the lock interesting enough, so in him also hotel - Hotel Zamkowy ***. The best end of travel! A shone signboard have noticed at once. Short conversation with the manager on an intercom at gate, and we already with comfort settle in the basic hotel case. Unfortunately, some numbers in the lock have been already occupied. In evening illumination the lock looks mysteriously, but scales to estimate difficultly. Therefore we finish this day grandiose posidelkoj in wine pogrebke – vinarne on-polski. Depending on quantity drunk, I think, it is possible to name it and svinarnej. :) But we cultural people! A wine map really quite good, offer even the present French wine on flood directly from flanks (5 zl for a glass). We have given a tribute to Spanish – somehow it was not possible to try earlier.

Morning walk on the lock and surrounding park has broken all plans. Counted, that obbezhim all for an hour, and to twelve we will be already on border. But the promenade was unexpectedly tightened, is sick kinds beautiful and the nature is attractive. Near to the lock small "cultural" lake and big "natural". Ducks float, centenary oaks around grow. Very similar on atmosphere on the Shenbornsky lock in Zakarpate, only it is better. Here still the sun has looked out, and the temperature has risen to +15. It in the beginning of January!

More shortly, have reached Ukraine only by a dinner. Before it have still stopped for a short while in Pshemyshle to spend last zloties. There was a Sunday, and grocery shops worked only. I imagine, as our girls in turn of Polish mums with the kiddies, buying to children dessertiki and yoghurts when they reserved to themselves on a vodka bottle felt. :) And what to carry as a souvenir from the Polish epicure, if not "Krupnik"?

The ending

The trip has gone right. To see it was necessary so much, how much it was impossible on one other travel to Poland. And after all it only a small part of the country – the southeast. And there is after all still an Austro-Hungarian southwest and the German north with their large quantity of sights. And in Warsaw we did not happen yet. It would be final, ideal to call in there on couple of weeks, and in the late spring or in the summer that days are longer. To go slowly from a city to a city, from the lock to the lock, being guided by a map, the guidebook and own scent. To stop where it is necessary in small towns, to eat the present Polish meal, to communicate with the simple Poles who have been not corrupted with "fat" western tourists. Perhaps, sometime such travel also will take place, but while Poland remains at us the transit country. Here and we plan to see there something brand new in transit to France next summer. Only the route needs to be planned carefully, the blessing the map of the Polish locks occupies now a place of honour from us in a cartographical collection.