"Foresters" in Taurida – spring excursion across Crimea

«The seventeenth – base, answer. Reception», - official tone I call conducted on a portable radio set. To travel a minicolumn from two cars about "voki-currents" in a hand not only it is convenient, but also it is cheerful. «On the right before us spurs Karadaga.« The black mountain »has resulted from eruption of a volcano I do not remember how much millions years ago», - I make comments tone of the real guide on magnificent landscapes round road. Asphalt fervently squeals a little under wheels of two ours "Foresterov", is dashing pawning abrupt turns on a streamer. On the next conquest of Crimea we have gone to the companies of good acquaintances with which the general passion to distant wanderings and adherence to the Japanese stamp "subaru" makes related. Similar, "Forester" is a style of a life.

On travel we have decided to avoid meaningly the Big Yalta with all its palaces, botsadami, swallow's nests and Ah-petri. It is a prerogative of those who purposefully comes to informal capital of Crimea for some days to roll about on a beach, to leave many money in taverns and to drive with the organised excursions on nearby sights. Materials about it on the Internet full, with routes all is clear, and we have visited there already everywhere and repeatedly. Our plan covers less visited, but much more interesting natural and historical monuments almost on all peninsula – from the West on the east.


Eh, roads …

To get from Kiev to Crimea it is possible several ways. Electronic schedulers usually draw a route through Kirovograd – it the shortest, about 800 km. But it does not mean, that it the most optimum. It is preferred by fans of night driving, when roads absolutely empty. In the afternoon on narrow twisting highway it is necessary to try to keep step often with lorries in expectation of rare possibility for passing.

Fastest to reach quickly from Kiev Simferopol it is possible on the Odessa line, having curtailed for Umanju on Golovanyovsk, Nikolaev and Kherson. 815 km easily become covered for 9-10 hours because the route part passes on a high-speed highway. However, this road is good almost on all extent. The site from Golovanyovska to Nikolaev does not strain thanks to the low traffic, and eternally loaded road Nikolaev-Kherson already almost on all extent has on two strips in each direction and sparkles newcomers katafortami marking. A traditional ambush of car inspection at once for Umanju – "shoot" a radar of "racers". Nourishingly to have dinner it is recommended in a roadside complex "Kotajk" after congress from the Odessa line, where cosy territory with summer arbours and an excellent Armenian cuisine (120-150 grn. For two). And to be reserved by delicacies to beer it is possible for Voznesensky, in village with the unambiguous name Cancer. Except cancers, here offer excellent dried ram on 2 grn. For a feature. Who does not like long unceasing moving, can diversify road with visiting of the Museum of rocket strategic forces near Pervomaisk. To spend the night then it will be convenient in one of decent motels between Nikolaev and Kherson, or in the Nikolaev (the list see in section «Hotel of Nikolaev»).

We have chosen the longest (900 km) and the most beautiful route along Dnepr to visit on road Zaporozhye. The short pleasure of the Borispolsky line is replaced skukotoj a highway to Kremenchug. It is good, that passings here are given easily. A charge of vivacity and good mood – at picturesque roadside restaurant "Велес" under Zolotonoshej (15-20 grn. For the basic dish). Further decent institutions will appear only after Dneprodzerzhinsk. The well-known fish market in Gradezhske meets empty counters – is closed because of the conflict of two owners. But enterprise of local residents all the same finds openings – vjalenoj and in a smoked small fish trade secretly (25 grn. For a huge piece of a silver carp). Vigilance to lose it is not necessary – in the end of village the GAI more often is on duty. Kremenchug we pass through the close centre (the district is broken). It is expensive worse on quality Further, but all troubles compensate tremendous kinds on a valley of Dnepr. Characteristic sign of the Dnepropetrovsk area – asphalt of a greenish shade. From Dneprodzerzhinsk begins chetyryohpoloska. In Dnepropetrovsk it is better not to turn off under the first index to Zaporozhye (the district is strongly broken by lorries), and to go through a city under prospectuses for what it is desirable to be reserved by a map.

Let's add, that in May hit to Crimea for autotourists free of charge – is enough not to forget to brake at a sign «Stop. The control» on KP. In the summer the autonomy usually enters small resort gathering for travelling "savage" (10 grn.).


In the Wild field

Once here there was a civilisation border. Zaporozhye sech protected territory of Ukraine from attacks of malicious Tatars which wandered in lower reaches of Dnepr in search of an easy money. Here the culture of the Ukrainian Cossacks as which consider as a prototype of present democracy and our state in general was generated. So first of all we go to Hortitsa.

The biggest island on Dnepr is connected to the centre of Zaporozhye the narrow auto-railway bridge which was damned for a long time by all inhabitants of the right coast for constant stoppers. Passing, we notice movement of building technics on long-term construction of the new bridge – means, inhabitants Baburki had a hope.

Two indexes. To the right you will go – already to Sechi you will reach, on the left you will go – to the Scythian camp you will get. Well, we will look, as restore a Cossack fortress.

During Soviet times for that place, the most beautiful kind on "Dneproges" whence opens, have constructed the Museum of history of the Zaporozhye Cossacks (bodies: (0612) 52-51-88, 52-73-17). Then it, of course, both was called in another way, and specialised more on labour feats of the first five-years periods and heroics Great Domestic, but now the diopama of night storm of Zaporozhye reminds of it the Soviet armies only. Now Old Russian swords, Cossack sabres, ancient pistoles and rusty guns have located in halls. For an input from us took on 3 grn., have dug out in zagashnike the illustrated guidebook to Hortitsa, and here about visiting New Sechi have disappointed – it is possible to get there for 36 grn. While only with rare planned excursions about which it is necessary to learn in advance by phone.

Perhaps, it and to the best. The Historical and cultural complex «Zaporozhye Sech» have started to erect in the neighbourhood in 2004. Already there are walls, towers, kureni, goncharnja, kuznja and church, but before building end still at least year. Jobs during excursions do not stop, the territory is filled up by building materials and forced by concrete mixers. We will admire then when will finish. At present it is possible to examine free only scenery of the Russian blockbuster «Taras Potatoes», representing Cossack suburb under fortress walls. From that foreshortening where, obviously, there were movie cameras, the kind turns out very picturesque. But as this properties with plywood small houses from two walls are going to to use further, mind I will not put.

On the opposite end of island we have found other sight – horse theatre «Zaporozhye Cossacks» (bodies: (061) 220-2622), taken places in stylised Cossack pledge. Representations suit occasionally by request of the big groups, more often the foreign. This day the manager the Potatoes »have suggested us to observe only performance rehearsal« Taras, but to come back here in the evening, unfortunately, did not enter into our plans.

Here, in the big red hangar, archeologists and restorers work over reconstruction of the Cossack seagull of the sample of XVIII century lifted from a river bed. The company to it was made several years ago by the brigantina-coeval – to it now attach the stern found recently. Such unique exhibits pull on a separate museum of navy fleet. However to us has not carried here again – on doors the lock hung. Archeologists too have days off.

It is necessary to wander only between barrows and stone sculptures of "the Scythian camp», settled down on the highest point of Hortitsa on road to theatre. All this territory is considered reserved – money demands both for entrance, and for a parking and, actually, for an input. But it is possible to approach absolutely free of charge on Naumov's rock and long to admire picturesque landscapes of granite coast of Dnepr from shaft of Cossack strengthenings of times of Russian-Turkish war. Local here often come on picnics. For some reason and me this place on island has impressed most of all …

Other sights of Zaporozhye concern an industrialisation epoch when the new life to remote Aleksandrovsk was given by building grandiose "Dneprogesa". Stalin Sotsgorod it is considered one of the most successful examples of pre-war town-planning in the USSR. Speak, its project has received a gold medal on any of exhibitions in Paris, but to dig out details on the Internet to me it was not possible. Whether And the truth, what houses of one of quarters from height of the bird's flight develop in a word "STALIN"? Whether really Lenin's prospectus remains to the longest in Europe (11 km)? I do not know. But to walk on it in the evening to us it was pleasant. Beautiful road, the pure sidewalks, the repaired facades, effective night illumination. And restaurants and the cafe for last years has appeared simply a large quantity.

Service. On Hortitsa to have dinner it is recommended at expensive restaurant «Zaporozhye Sech» near to a museum (bodies: (061) 224-7979) which is for some reason called national club. Will more cheaply and more vividly seem korchma «the Cossack farmstead» if will find road. In the centre to us the bar "Mustang" (Lenin's avenue, 148) in style of the American military aircraft of 40th years was grew fond. In a city it is a lot of similar creative: cafe-bar "Political bureau" (Lenin's avenue, 208) with the Soviet symbolics on walls, cafe-train «34th fast» (street Dzerzhinsky, 49) with landscapes carried by in "windows", a tavern «At a fireplace» (street Bitter, 43) with typical petty-bourgeois interiors … to Choose it is possible safely as the prices everywhere are pleasant for a purse. Not so expensive and comfortable lodging for the night to find more difficult. We will advise private hotel "Санди" (bul. Shevchenko, 4; bodies: (061) 220-0889) – 260 grn. For the double. Minihotels on suburbs will more cheaply manage only.

What? Carried away by Cossack culture it is sent to the dried up 700-year-old Zaporozhye oak on the Top Hortitsa (Potatoes street Tarasa). The interested weapon achievements of mankind for certain will not pass a private Museum of history of the weapon (Lenin's avenue, 189) at shop "Diana". The rests can recommend museum of local lore rich with archeological finds in a building of the Zemsky justice (street of Security officers, 29). All on the fan.

At us other interest – for a long time we wish to get to lock Popova. Too it is unusual – to meet it the lock in the Wild field as our ancestors uninhabited Bottom podneprove named.

The monumental manor in Neoromance style has appeared in Vasilevke, that between Zaporozhye and Melitopol, in 1884. – so column Vorontsova from it alupkinskim a manor ambitious nobleman Vasily Popov in which veins blood of the Georgian tsars flew has decided to outdo defensive towers, gear walls, a magnificent palace and park. On building the whole brick-works worked, a laying now name the made. Quality of a brick was estimated by the Soviet power – the main case was disassembled to combine in village the culture house. On a question why it was impossible to raise cultural level of peasants directly in a palace, old ekskursovodsha only sighs. Yes that there the Soviet power! Now and the saved wings in an emergency condition – roofs flow, plaster falls off. And after all in a museum exposition there are even Bryullov's cloths!

Here and Melitopol on horizon, we turn off under the index on the Stone tomb. Here at us "joining" with the second crew is planned – friends with two children onboard too have decided to submit on May Crimea, and too on "Forestere". Similar, already were tired of waiting. Under a strong wind with a rain we start to clamber on boulders.

It is a lot of millions years ago here there was a bottom of the Sarmatian sea. When water has receded, there was a huge plate of sandstone which has broken up subsequently into set of blocks … Is not present, it too in a scientifically way. On an ancient legend, the God has ordered to a certain giant to combine mountain on this place. That has decided to fake and began to put stones leaky, with emptiness, but itself has failed in a hole and has been filled up by a collapse. It is not surprising, that such fantastic stone chaos generated the most improbable legends. I and itself have decided, that here have not done without direct participation of the person, if not a categorical conclusion of science officers – an origin natural. The most interesting is buried inside under a thick layer of sand that vandals have not reached. It is considered, that rock paintings in local caves almost the most ancient in the world (it is possible, is much more senior VII thousand BC) . Some scientists see in these unintelligible signs even writing rudiments. I think, for this purpose it is necessary to possess the big imagination – I in the majority petroglifov have not seen anything, except grids of the crossed lines. Now their copies can be seen only in a local museum. At top it will be possible to find only an ancient altar (or a power column if want).

Service. Qualitatively and cheaply to have a bite in Melitopol it is possible in a network pizzeria "CHelentano" in the centre (B.Hmelnitskogo's street, 23). More seriously to approach to a lunch question restaurant "Tower" (street B.Hmelnitskogo, 27 allows; bodies: (0619) 43-48-45), issued in a tree and a stone. Here tired and well-founded travellers will find a comfortable lodging for the night for 350 grn. The sauna with pool is applied. However, in a city cheaper motels have been noticed also.


Scythian shljah

Probably, Scythians have come from prichernomorskih steppes to Crimea 2,5 thousand years ago approximately the same route, as we. The Rekopsky isthmus then provided unique overland access on peninsula, and here – near Genicheska – there was the narrowest part of Sivash. Now on autonomy border there is a brisk trade in valuable fish and caviar obviously brakonerskogo origins. Tasty, but the prices for some reason above, than in the Kiev supermarkets – 180 grn. For a half-one-litre jar of the red.

The joint excursion program it is opened in Simferopol. Usually tourists here are not late – has arrived by train or the plane, and at once on JUBK, or in general has driven transit on avto. Us «gate of Crimea» interest first of all as the former capital of the Scythian state. From the main street Thieves' the narrow small street Neapolitan runs up the Petrovsky hill. At top of an extensive plateau we see ruins of the big stone tower in an environment of numerous fragments of the disappeared civilisation. Though Scythians also were by the nature nomads, but at mature age have become staid, have settled, have acquired cities, have established regular relations with neighbours. A little that was saved since then. Even the tower drawing attention is obviously reconstructed presently. After all ancient ruins in XIX century used at building of Simferopol as a stone quarry!

«An advantage city» (so Simferopol is translated) prince Potyomkin has named capital of Taurian province, and in scale building its colleague Vorontsov later was engaged. A travelling palace the governor general (1826) We find in park "Салгирка" along the street Yalta. To be parked on big and absolutely empty parking in territory for some reason allow not to all interested persons. And after all behind collars to become simple there is no place! The security guard at first has captiously enquired, who we such and that here do, has specified, whether that we a film crew from Kiev which here today expect, and has passed only after long fluctuations. The building vorontsovskogo a palace with marble lions at an input is looked in ancient landscape park very picturesquely. Now the Crimean academy of sciences here is based. On the contrary – an ordinary-looking small house vorontsovskogo the protege – academician Pallasa who has become famous for creation Nikitsky botsada. All is very nice and is marvellously deserted, as though mere mortals here and at all do not start up.

Still we were twisted at the closed gate beautiful old kenasy in the street Karaimsky, and have then gone on a visit to Tatars, which have located in mosque Kebir-Dzhami (1508) on-neighbourhood. Who has told, what Moslems are closed and intolerant? In a court yard Crimean muftijata us have met very hospitably, the terminations namaza only have asked to wait and to remove footwear before an input in a temple. Personally I have appeared for the first time in the present operating mosque. Here all is strict enough and ascetic. Barefoot to go coldly, despite heating and a carpet covering. The female branch is located on the second floor that praying men the kind kolenopreklonyonnyh did not confuse women. The unique fresco on a wall represents Mecca. In "hall" ancient relics – stone plates with any Arabian letters are collected. Not so the Crimean Moslems as them paint are terrible. Only tens unsightly temporary barrackses samosyolov at a line remind, that the Tatar question here remains actual.

To spend the night it is solved in Sevastopol that sutra to visit Balaklavu, and therefrom to go to mountain areas. Certainly, and the city of naval glory is worthy one-two excursion days. The heroic past is sung by a diopama «Defense of Sevastopol», memorial complexes on the Sapun-grief and Malahovom a barrow, defenders of a city from fascists are immortalised by a huge monument on cape Crystal, about flooded on a waterway of the Sevastopol bay the ships the eagle soaring over an artificial rock reminds is the oldest and most known monument of Sevastopol. The present pleasure to walk on quay to Count landing stage, to walk on brisk central streets in search of unusual city temples, to glance in one of museums of sea inhabitants – the ships or fishes, to sit in open cafe with a glass something holodnenkogo …

And, certainly, Chersonese Taurian – is better the ruins which have saved in Ukraine of an antique city. Till now researchers have not found out, where exactly in 988 year the Kiev prince Vladimir has accepted a christening – a cathedral in its honour have constructed in one place, and a memorable sign have established in other.

Ancient Greeks have arrived in Tavriku almost simultaneously with Scythians, only on the other hand. Also have together won Tauris living here, ostensibly very malicious and severe. One of tavrskih settlements was in Balaklave where we go further.

Suddenly it seemed to me, that I have come to be somewhere to the Mediterranean – so the panorama of the quay which has been built up with old small houses to which water, apparently, approaches closely is unusual to Crimea. The narrow and twisting Balaklavsky bay filled with boats and yachts, – same the poured out Venetian Grandee the channel! The Italian period in a city life really was – "invaders" from great trading Genoa empire have based here one of the ports, having protected its powerful fortress CHembalo (XIV century) . It was fine saved, but while a complex have not up to the end put in order, lifting to the top towers on mountain Kastron represents serious test for the unprepared. High-grade resort Balaklava became more recently. Not only that here there are no convenient beaches so still privacy did not allow – in this rocky bay perfectly well covered from the sea during Soviet times the Main base of underwater forces of the Black Sea fleet settled down. The factory on repair of submarines is now transformed into a museum, but it is possible to get to a season there only on preliminary record (bodies: (0692) 63-75-93, 63-75-90) – we about it did not know.

Sometime we will arrive here for some days simply to have a rest – to wander on mountains, pozavisat on quay, to sunbathe in secluded bays of Gold and Silver beaches. Then we will necessarily go and on Fiolent, where the Piously-Georgievsky monastery and picturesque rocks, and in Inkerman – on ruins antique Kalamity. It was a sea advanced post of medieval princedom Feodoro – its cave cities at us on a route further.

Service. Good hotels in the centre of Sevastopol nedyoshevy. Exacting tourists "Olympus" *** (will satisfy street Kulakova, 86; bodies: (0692) 455-758), with a historical building a stone's throw away from quay involves "Sevastopol" (Nakhimov's avenue, 8; bodies: (0692) 46-64-00, 46-64-09), but the prices in both exceed 300 grn. For number. Cheaper "Yard" *** (street Astana Kesaeva, 9; bodies: (0692) 46-11-44, 47-38-07) for 15 years has had time to decay a little, and it is located on boondocks. It is better to spend the night in Balaklave. Except elite "Dakkara" (street Kalicha, 13; bodies: (0692) 47-08-62), here is cosy "Listrigon" (street on November, 7th, 5д, 8; bodies: (0692) 46-74-00, 45-51-50) with reasonable prices and magnificent kinds on a bay. For a supper it is possible to be indulged with a fresh small fish in "cape Tatjaninom" or «the Izba of the fisherman» it is direct on quay.


Cave cities. Gotichno …

For the first time Germans have grasped Crimea in III century. More precisely, goty there were natives of Scandinavia, but all the same true Aryans – high, blue-eyed «blond knaves». At first Greeks with their Scythians were afraid, but have then got used. And "ex-Vikings" were soon civilised and even declared itself ellinami. Present goty which go in black and listen to heavy music, in any way with them are not connected, as well as peaked style of a gothic style in architecture.

From a line Sevastopol-Yalta is turned off on minor road under the index on Ternovku. The kind on tsiklopichesky eaves of mountain a Shuldan-breaker spotted with "minks" of cave monasteries CHelter and SHuldan (VIII century) – them At the left opens while is passed. Tourist turmoil round emerald lake under mountain Mangup – inhabitants of settlement Hodzhi of Fat provide visitors with tasty Tatar meal, souvenirs, conductors and transport on top. Lifting on mountain on the UAZ costs 100 grn., about descent it is necessary to agree separately. On a question, whether it is possible to drive on "Forestere", advise to regret the car. But after all we more recently submitted caucasus! Really "Foriki" will not pass in Crimea there where constantly there go army off-road cars?

The old wheel road on Mangup-Kale begins with a line from the index on state farm "Ukraine". To steam of kilometres it is passed on a valley, then the first coat dives in lesok on a slope. After short investigation on district we decide, that the deep gully in the middle of a track the big problem for us is not, though the usual automobile car here hardly will pass. Begins cautious chetyryohkilometrovyj lifting which becomes more and more extreme on a course – without ceremony it is possible to fly from breakage or to sit down on a belly, having failed wheels in a gully. A stop it is done on an entrance to the purpose to take breath and pass overtaken for us excursion UAZ. The last of 500 metres it is overcome on foot under terrible rocky ledges from which stones were once strewed on enemies, peaks and arrows.

The capital Crimean Gotii occupied all extensive plateau at mountain top. Becoming in VI century partners of Byzantium, goty receive the task to protect Chersonese from barbarians. Unapproachable slopes have in addition strengthened walls and towers, have erected a citadel with a palace, temples, various inhabited and economic constructions. Initially city and mountain carried the Greek name Has grown, which then was transformed in Feodoro – the same name has received also all influential gothic princedom. Though it has not resisted under blows of osmanli Turks, descendants of "blond knaves» lived here, storing the original culture, language and writing, already till XVI century, and can and longer. On a grief we have found out basically only the bases and underground premises of city buildings among which were guided by means of bought in the bottom of a map-scheme. The three-storyed princely residence was not bad saved only. On it two drunk anarchists sat, swinging a black flag, loudly using foul language and demanding «to return historical sense of the 1st of May». I here would prefer returning of historical sense Mangupa.

It is good, that on a return way counter transport has never got to us – to part is unreal! Except ubiquitous UAZ, at top we have noticed also brutalnyj "Defender". To owners of less passable off-road cars to storm Mangup I do not recommend, especially in crude weather. It is better to walk to steam of kilometres on foot on rather flat footpath from Hodzhi Saly.

On road Eski-Kermen much tsivilnee, but absolutely without indexes – turn on the left behind the Red Poppy, at the T-shaped crossroads to the right, then more to the left by Holmovki. The inspector of GAI, jumping out from an ambush, sniffs at drivers, calculating already pronikshihsja true sense of the 1st of May. Knows, that under mountain of tourists treat to house wine in cafe over prudikom. Here offer a picturesque lodging for the night in half-civilised conditions, but our excursion day still far is not ended. Cars it is left on parking (5 grn. At an o'clock), under instructions parkovshchika on mountain we start to climb up on an abrupt footpath. Here and there it is necessary to clamber with the big work. The rests of steps meeting by places say that in an antiquity this way was a little bit easier.

One more classical rocky fortress it is ready, since VI century defending Chersonese in commonwealth with alanami (here when the Ukrainian-Georgian friendship has arisen!). Authentic data on its history are not present almost any. Even the present name it is simple «an old fortress» on-tatarski. Probably, here there was a first capital Gotii, and can be there lived Scythians. Along eaves of table mountain we go by mysterious caves of an ancient city. Here the good guide – a map-scheme for 10 grn is precisely necessary. It has appeared practically useless. We have not taken care of high-grade excursion for the sake of economy of time, here and it was necessary to guess independently, where here a patrol complex, where an obsidional well, and where a court. It has appeared, upward it was possible to get and on much more convenient old road by a temple of Three horsemen (XII-XIII centuries) through the main gate at once to the centre of a site of ancient settlement.

Not to repeat errors, in Chufut-Kale next day have gone with the accompanying. Enterprising parkovshchik to a descent has offered us for 100 grn. To accept aboard the woman-guide who will show travel road to the very top and will open gate on entrance to reserve. The route which is passing through fragrant mozhzhevelovoju a grove, has appeared this time absolutely easy, yes here an ill luck – the key has not approached to the lock. It was necessary to come back, and then still for a long time to bargain with ekskursovodshej which in any way did not wish to stamp for the stipulated sum with us uphill on foot. They fatly live in Bakhchisarai …

So, we park directly at an input in the Uspensky monastery (in it we will glance on a return way) and forward – on the trampled path between gorge walls. Through one and a half kilometre of easy lifting we at gate Chufut-Kale. In VI century here were constructed alany (natives from the North Caucasus, i.e. Ossetins), having merged then with gotami and the rests of Scythians in the general nationality and, not long thinking, having been called simply Greeks (and the truth, is better to be considered civilised, than the barbarian). Have then come hazary, behind them Tatars, Turks etc. Greeks have survived absolutely, and here hazary were saved in a kind karaimov. It is such mysterious and very small nationality about which origin there are old disputes. Appearance, culture and language like Turkic, and belief iudaistskaja – the sacred book is considered a Torah (i.e. the Old testament). This "dualism" has allowed small narodtsu to avoid many traditional Jewish troubles, remaining in favore at all authorities thanks to image of people resourceful and enterprising. Anyway, Chufut-Kale it is translated as «the Jewish fortress».

We go on stone road with a deep track. The guide explains, what is it wheels of their vehicles nakatali for many centuries, but it seems to me, that have hollowed them specially that arby slid directly, not running on corners of houses and passers-by. At once it is visible, that people here lived still rather recently. Some constructions, especially late, were saved fine: the mausoleum of the successor chingizidov Dzhanike-Hanym, karaimskie kenasy, manor of historian Firkovicha which has devoted a life to preservation Chufut-Kale. In its house now cosy cafe with a tiny museum karaimskogo a life. Only here it is possible to try present ajaklaki (puff pies with a different stuffing) under chopraksy (grape vodka on the grasses, similar on beherovku), having washed down all it buzoj (something of type of very easy beer or kvass). Mastering will be helped by descent to 45 metres in obsidional well recently opened by archeologists – simply amazing hydraulic engineering construction of the Middle Ages! In the story of the nice bearded man-cave explorer in a knitted hat true professional admiration of engineering talents of the ancient is felt.

On a return way we come into the Uspensky monastery. The monastery was based in VII century by the Greek monks-fugitives from Byzantium when emperors the Lion and Konstantin have launched campaign for struggle against icons in mother country, and at the same time and with too influential monasteries. The legend symbolically tells about the phenomenon on a rock of wonder-working icon Odigitrii which has wonderfully got here from a monastery Has managed in the Byzantian Trebizond (present Trabzon). The icon was gone in days of revolution, but the Uspensky monastery over a sacred source has managed to go through all historical storms. For visiting it is necessary to have an appropriate appearance, and to get drunk from a curative source it is free each passer-by can.

The rock file picturesquely hangs over most expensive, conducting to the centre of Bakhchisarai. During a season here it is always close from cars, and stoppers happen from time to time also. The prices for a parking fly up above minarets of the Hansky palace. Here pilgrims bring down for the sake of sung by Pushkin of "the Fountain of tears». The tragical history of premature demise of the liked wife of the khan is connected With it Crimea-Gireja. Frankly speaking, for me remains a riddle than so has strongly inspired the poet this idle time bjuvet. Premises of a sofa (council), a harem and a bath have more interestingly seemed. Scale modest, however all is very beautiful and cosy, as well as it is necessary to residence small, but arrogant east feudal lords of XVI century. Very much promotes immersing in atmosphere of a medieval Tatar city – one of the former capitals of Crimea.

Atmosphere has to arrange present shashlychnyj evening in one of country Tatar restaurants where the meal is always more qualitative and cheaper, than on coastal resorts. The table is quickly filled with snack: ostrenkie baklazhanchiki, a salty brynza, fragrant greens, a soft unleavened wheat cake. The hungriest bring plates with smoking lagmanom and shurpoj are such fat soups from mutton. At last, predominating position on a table is occupied with pieces of the juicy meat fried on skewers, and also appetizing kolbaski ljulja-kebaba in obnimku with rings of a juicy marinaded onion. To wash down this meat magnificence it is necessary red dry wine – here even a little unduly sourish Crimean perfectly will approach. It is possible even to experiment with the house wines bought the day before. «From massandrovskih cellars», it is better to avoid the Tatars selling on flood. Bolshee the trust is called by the grandmother in detail explaining: « It is a pure Isabella, and here I have mixed the Cabernet with the Muscat ». It is a pity, that at good restaurants of Crimea it is still not accepted to offer the checked up house wine.

Service. Demand for habitation advances the offer therefore tourists prefer to spend the night in Simferopol or Sevastopol in Bakhchisarai. Regional hotel it is not mentioned even not. As a matter of fact, to recommend it is possible only cottages-lux in turotele "Halt" (Schmidt's street, 43, 500 m from the Hansky palace; bodies: (06554) 47-864) cost from 250 grn. Usual double rooms in the case on 120-180 grn. The comfortable you will not name, and hot water at the big flow of lodgers it is possible not to wait. The base infrastructure is various enough, but for a supper is recommended to get out for a taxi for a city. From several restaurants on a line the best kitchen guarantees "Markur" (6th km of a line Bakhchisarai-Simferopol; bodies: (06554) 43-504) where, on a legend, liked to have supper president Kuchma. On 100 grn. To gorge on it is possible to a sailing.


Lords Chatyrdaga

Let's distract for one day from history, after all Crimea is not less rich also with nature sanctuaries! Especially, in area Alushty. Through Simferopol we get out on the Yalta line in a toffee behind the well-known long-distance trolley buses. In village Good turn on Marble. The mountain road calls vague sensation of alarm – Martian landscapes of reddish mountains alternate with tsiklopicheskimi "mowings" of the pines tumbled down by hurricane. At last, a fork on which it is necessary to choose one of two caves – Marble or Emine-Bair-Hosar.

It is surprising, that till 1987 anybody at all did not suspect, what highly artistic products of the nature disappear in underground store rooms of hills CHatyrdag. Only 20 years ago the Crimean cave explorers have found out and equipped an enormous Marble cave which quickly became the centre of tourist pilgrimage thanks to a fantastic variety of forms of limy adjournment for visiting. From the arches stalactites hang down, from below the stalagmites aspire to them, some have already grown together in stalagnaty, and reunion is necessary to another only through many thousand years. Moving on the concreted paths, we consider in effective illumination freakish figures of Gallery of fairy tales, we are amazed to beauty of Pearl lakes, we make the way deep into mysterious Tigrovogo a course. polutorachasovaja excursion manages in 40 grn. With a musical route «Melodies Chatyr-daga» to get To the bottom cave it is possible only during a low season or with any important delegation – there is no throughput. On May and at the height of a holiday season even on usual excursion it is necessary to register at 1,5-2 o'clock forward.

If to approach to a question with mind, this time can be used effectively on visiting of next cave Emine-Bair-Hosar. It is just known to people for a long time, however for excursions it equipped only last years. Speak, not less impressing, than Marble, and it is pleasant to some even more. Be convinced of it personally we could not – to get on short excursion it was not possible, and because of full could pass the turn in Marble. It was necessary to agree in advance with the manager on an input that we can be late. It was necessary to while away time in unpretentious cafe with hot dogs and an instant coffee. By the way, below, at settlement Marble, hotel-restaurant "This-this" (street Top, 22 has been found out decent enough in appearance; bodies: (066) 790-5467).

And again we on a streamer of the Yalta line where like to arrange extreme races as visitors on expensive foreign cars, and local on rusty "Zhigulis". The GAI post on Angarsk pass marks a place, foot routes on CHatyrdag whence begin. On conquest of the Eklizi-breaker we, unfortunately, do not have time. We pass the Kutuzovsky fountain (here soldiers washed out to the commander a wound), further turn on Radiant through settlement with the poetic name the Lavender. The first index on Demerdzhi and the Valley of reductions at a steep slope can be passed – there to naive tourists vparivajut horses, conductors and expensive protection on parking place. Correct turn will be in the Most radiant. From here on a first coat it is possible to reach by the usual automobile car directly to ruins of a medieval fortress.

Fortress Funa (it not a name of the person, and the Greek word "smoky") was east advanced post feodoritov and protected a trading way from Alustona to Steppe Crimea. From picturesque ruins where guides-amatory trade, dealers souvenirs and ubiquitous parkovshchiki, the most beautiful kind on a foggy Valley of Ghosts with its chaotic stone heaps and amazing not man-made columns opens. The big block at top name Ekaterina's Head. And the truth, is in a silhouette something regal. Especially vpechatljajushche all it looks in sunset light. Here the most popular place for fans of horse walks.

So, we have visited caves, mountains saw – there are falls! We turn under the index in Solnechnogorsky and through 10 km we appear in General. Having moved down from the main road, easily we force a small water barrier and we begin polutorakilometrovyj lifting on mountain. The road comes to an end with a small clearing with a parking and bazarchikom, we move on foot on gorge along mountain small river Ulu-Uzen further. On approach to the purpose notifies a deaf roar – falls Dzhur-Dzhur look very solidly in comparison with Wuchang-sou. Not such high (15), but much deeper, especially in the spring. From neighbouring footpaths numerous groups of the pedestrian tourists with backpacks and kettles here are flown down. It seems, this kind of tourism in Crimea returns former popularity – "rjukzachnikov" and we met tent small towns everywhere on a route in unprecedented earlier quantities. Probably, it is very interesting, but too slowly, as on me. «And why we do not have these pieces behind shoulders?» - its five years' son Dima asks JUrku. «Because we have luggage carriers!», - it is proud the father answers. Yes, this our advantage. On a return way we fill up luggage carriers with bottles with quite good house wine – 20 grn. For litre. The input on reserve territory costs 10 grn., for parking from us took on 5 grn. From the car – standard now the rate, will be more expensive in the summer.

Dozing Alushta meets silence and calmness on quay, though to the season beginning already openly majority of pleasure institutions. At restaurant "N mile" on the Seaside area we are treated with traditional Crimean gifts of the sea: a noble flounder, fragrant barabulka, oddish by sight rapany, the freshest Black Sea mussels. All is expensive, that is natural to the big resort, but is qualitative and with pleasant service. We wash down, certainly, local wine. Once on grapes cultivation natives of Greece specialised here, Scythians have learnt them to drink wine not diluted (there was even such expression – «to drink on-skifski»), and on an industrial basis the winemaking was put by Russian aristocrats Potyomkin, Vorontsov and Golitsyn. From their initiative the glory kreplyonyh and the dessert Crimean wines, for example the well-known muscats and a magnificent sherry of factory "Массандра" has gone on the world. Dry, in particular inkermanskie, usually too sour and with bednovatym a bouquet. It is possible to consider as an exception unless massandrovskuju "Alushtu", but for 60 grn., as it seems to me, it is better to take a bottle decent French or excellent Georgian.

Service. Already second time have successfully stopped in hotel "Moscow" (street Bitter, 8; bodies: (06560 31-008) in 250 m from quay. Good service is pleasantly combined here with reasonable prices (230 grn. For double). Directly on quay new private hotel "Lydia" (street Quay, 15а recently has settled down; bodies: (050 800-3379) with smart numbers on 300 grn. Also very good impression hotel "Meeting" (has made Lenin's street, 3; bodies: (06560 58-098) with magnificent, but expensive Italian of cafe on the ground floor. Small restaurant "N mile" under the Seaside area demokratichnee, but also here a supper will manage in 250 grn. For two. The kitchen of institutions does not call trust easier. Dances till the morning go on quay in club «Cheerful Roger» which is praised by visitors, but neighbours – for loud music and the blocked view of the sea dislike. From May till September is closer to the Professorial corner the aquapark «the Almond grove» (street Quay, 4а works; bodies: (06560 25-971) where there is everything, including hotel, restaurant and bowling. Thanks to heating of pools here it is possible to bathe practically in any weather, and the prices can please only in the spring.


Adventures of Italians in Crimea

Italians from Venice, and then and Genoa have reached Crimea in XIII century. Having grown rich on superprofits from trade in spices and silk with the East countries, they began to equip "shops" on a route with comfortable fortresses with all necessary "tourist" infrastructure. So there was a chain of the Genoa locks lengthways JUBK. The Most saved from them at us further on a route.

I am again convinced, that mountain road over the sea between Alushtoj and the Pike perch – the most beautiful in Crimea. Here still tile roofs on slopes, also you will not distinguish from the Bottom eaves, that on the French Riviera. To yawn it is not necessary – intensive rulyozhka, the active job by transfers moderated by a brake. A special glamour – in time to touch transfers so that not to touch at all brakes. Rubber cheerfully squeals a little in abrupt turns as children who have unostentatiously moved in our car cheerfully squeal a little. «Why we so quickly go?» «We escape from the daddy!» The second car periodically vanishes from a kind, but communication we support on a portable radio set. «Dima, close a window!» - the terrible voice of the father from dynamics finds unawares the child played by the button steklopodyomnika in full confidence, that parents do not supervise a situation. At the next stop It is brisk takes breath – the streamer is given to it not so cheerfully. Have stopped under Malorechensky because not could so to drive simply by. On high rock at road the snow-white church-beacon of memory of the lost seamen and travellers soars over the sea. Building is not ended yet but as it is perfect …

Lonely tower the Choban-sack over cape Tower noticed from road time and again earlier. Now we turn off. The predatory lock of brothers Guasko is known for numerous conflicts of owners to the Genoa authorities. A first coat with obstacles which quite on forces our skilled krosoveram, abruptly runs up a hill. Last hundreds metres it is overcome on foot and – ah! A sparkling sea smooth surface ahead, mountainous landscapes around, a fresh salty wind with mozhzhevelovym smack and the sun sea! For some reason the sensation here has come, that we at last have received that wanted from Crimea.

Sugdeja, Surozh, Soldajja – many names were changed by the Pike perch for one and a half millenia, yet has not received a present fish name. Has visited under the different authorities, but the most appreciable trace was left by genoeses. If not their lock which has fine saved on the Serf mountain, now here would come unless for the sake of rare on JUBK sandy beaches. Powerful walls with majestic towers frame extensive territory on which the whole medieval city could take places. With dating no problems are present – on many towers tablets with dates of construction from 1372 to 1469 were saved. We rise upward to the terrible Consular lock. From the citadel the chief of a trading station could, as well as we to take a view of all water area of the Sudaksky bay in search of the trading courts urgently requiring the taxation. More in detail about fortress history it is possible to learn in a museum located in the former Turkish mosque. Or simply listening to stories of guides which walk the organised groups of tourists on territory. If have time, descend also in the former harbour, where the Port tower sticks out, near to which imperceptible Armenian church Dvennadtsati of Apostles (XIV century) – very typical medieval temple has settled down.

Excursion in the Pike-perch would be not full without arrival in New Light. Bay this small and well protected by mountains, probably, – the most east point of Crimea where there is a full sensation of typical nature JUBK. In this heavenly spot prince Golitsyn has based manufacture of the well-known Crimean champagne which has been recognised by one of the best in the world in XIX century. Classical technology shampanizatsii as speak at factory, use and until now. Similar on the truth that is reflected both in taste, and in the price. However, on tasting in golitsinskie cellars to the individual tourist to get uneasy. We were limited to walk on Golitsyn's Track to Shalyapin's Grotto where was princely vinoteka and capital "pop stars" acted, and now it is possible to do some flying for moderate money over stones on "tarzanke".

One more moving, and soon we in Feodosiya – the main city of genoeses in Crimea. Judging by legends, here the Italian shopkeepers have to the full shown the natural resourcefulness. When Tatars have demanded to cover with gold the bull skin in exchange for territory with which it will be possible to surround with a belt made of the same skin, genoeses have managed to cut it on such most thin threads that have snipped off to itself the whole city. For us, descendants of the Ukrainian Cossacks, medieval Kafa the slavery symbolises itself. Once on the largest nevolnichem the market of Crimea have sold also well-known roksolanu – the future Turkish sultaness, and the Zaporozhye Cossacks three times arranged here retaliatory spot-checks and released the captured.

Ruins of the Genoa fortress to find here not so it is simple, as in the Pike perch. The quay is decorated only by sacred Konstantin's tower as which consider as the city card. A citadel it is found on a hillock among private building of Working small town. porosshie a tall weeds ancient walls were chosen by the schoolboys consuming drinks obviously mismatching their age. All vicinities from here as on a palm. At once it is visible, enormous for the time the medieval city was what. We walk along walls, we look in ancient Byzantian temples at mountain bottom Zamkovoj. From everywhere blows as history and … neglect. While nobody has taken care of tourist appeal of the main historical sight of a city.

Otherwise business is with ZHZL. The life is connected With Feodosiya at least two remarkable people – Ayvazovsky and Green. While the house-gallery of the well-known artist-marine painter is closed on repair, its some outstanding cloths can be seen in the next building. An exposition of the house-museum of the author of "Scarlet sails» opposite bednovata, but it is necessary to look at least at the interiors executed by sea romanticism.

In the rest the city has made pleasant impression almost primordial provintsionalizmom, not too spoilt by resort atmosphere. Something is restored and reconstructed, streets have got new names (in addresses them often duplicate), but there are and many untouched historical corners. Sandy beaches adjoin to seaport – behind pure water it is necessary to go to resort suburbs. But nevertheless in the summer here it is pleasant to those who wants quiet and inexpensive rest against the modest nature without a separation from a civilisation.

Service. Tryohzvyozdochnaja "Lydia" (street Zemsky (K.Libknehta), 13; bodies: (06562) 31-549) possesses a full set of services of hotel of the European level and the prices from 250 grn. For a double room. On the contrary, in the beginning of foot street, there is a democratic alternative – hotel "Helena" (street Zemsky (K.Libknehta), 8; bodies: (06562) 21-426) with good numbers from 200 grn, but without the cafe and a parking. Budgetary (from 120 grn.) In the centre it is possible to spend the night in historical "Astoria" (Lenin's avenue, 9; bodies: (06562) 32-343) where Green stopped, but repair since then and have not made. To us private hotel "Киви" (street Sverdlova, 42 has attracted; bodies: (06562) 22-101), that further from the centre, but with the closed territory, cafe and good numbers of all on 100-150 grn. Absolutely cheaply to have dinner near to the basic sights it is possible in cafe "Яцек" (street Galerejnaja, 6). And cheerfully to spend evening Daddy Bills »(street Fedko, 4) is recommended in a pub«. The supper for two here will manage in 150 grn., but in the evening on an input can demand an additional payment for a disco and the concert program.


On empire boondocks

Moving towards Kerch, we pass resort suburbs of Feodosiya – Coastal and Seaside, built up with brand new cottages and the big hotel complexes. It seems, this most east place on juzhnoberezhe where people have a rest cultural. 100 km of a steppe line result to Kerch. From here colonisation of Crimea by Greeks from Milenta 2,5 thousand years ago has begun. The Bosporsky kingdom became one of extreme points where the civilisation has reached ellinskaja.

Over city centre the mountain Mitridat towers. So called pontijskogo the tsar from Asia Minor which on a decline of the Ancient Greece owned all cities around Bospora Kimmerijsky as named then Kerch strait. Last years struggle against powerful Rome it has spent here, in ancient Panticapaeum where it and was betrayed by own son.

To ruins of an antique city we rise on a monumental ladder in 432 steps directly from Lenin's area where our cars have a rest. On the right at bottom – a brand new monument most Mitridatu VI Evpatoru, and in a cellar at the left enthusiasts have created technological model of Crypt Demetry – a unique antique tomb. The original, that in lane Demetry, unfortunately, already unsuccessfully try to rescue half a century from flooding and visitors there do not start up. And at a national museum the city authorities intend to select the premise which has attracted to someone.

Above – scatterings of stones, which where still combined in similarity of the bases and ladders, yes a couple of columns. That's all, that remains from nice Panticapaeum. Pass free, the control any. However, all valuable is stored for a long time already in an archaeological museum – the local collection of antique stone sculptures and gravestones makes one of the world's largest lapidariev. We examine a panorama of Kerch strait from that place where liked to sit on a stone old man Mitridat. On horizon the strip of Tamansky peninsula, and in the middle – island Tuzla sparkles. Territorial dispute with Russia for this plot of land not seems improbable if to consider, that it was a question of the control over all navigation. Knowingly for Kerch Romans, both hazary, and rusichi, both Tatars, and genoeses, and Turks were at war also.

Turks in 1703 have erected fortress Eni-Kale in the narrowest part of passage. Without a detailed map it not to find. That place, that on the city plan is designated as "Fortress", is system of shaft and bastions already times of Russian empire. The Turkish fortress containing to 12000 soldiers, is located in northern part of a city. To do some fighting to this stronghold it was not necessary, so it was saved not bad, especially graceful Southwest bastion over the sea. Most of all amaze northern strengthenings – a thickness of walls there simply enormous!

In Kerch there are not enough tourists. Stopped me for passing on the right the GAI OFFICER finds, the pier «to go that is necessary in one number, and for you here not Kiev, people weakened, can casually press». Yes I and not against, itself relax in absence usual on JUBK resort turmoil. The shady foot part of street of Lenin which for some reason name here parkway more cosy seems to those. We have dinner in one of summer cafes, we observe of a slow life of a country town. The weariness prevails. There would be time and forces, would find also other sights: the Imperial barrow of VI century BC, excavation of several antique cities-companions of Panticapaeum, a couple of interesting museums. With beaches here not so, but history – at every turn. The biggest impression makes John Predtechi's church in city centre. To this temple more than ten centuries! From it simply blows as an antiquity and sanctity. I would put it in one number with Sofia Kiev.

On a return way at us Old Crimea. Ancient Solhat was peninsula capital in XIV century, at Golden Horde. Since those times ruins of mosques, including the oldest in Crimea mosques of the Uzbek, and also an ancient caravan-shed were saved. Then here there were Armenians and have based on a grief nearby orthodox monastery Surb-Hach (1315). Very much I recommend not to regret time and to overcome 5 km of a wood first coat – a place simply radiates any positive power. A monastery operating, but its inhabitants are very affable, all show and tell. Also in a city it is possible to find Alexander Green's house-museum where it has spent last days the life. The tomb of the writer-romanticist is decorated by a sculpture Running on waves. I for example, only at adult age have learnt, that Green was the Soviet writer – strongly its creativity is not entered in socialist realism canons.

To spend the night in Koktebel costs at least for the sake of a campaign on Karadag. Is better to float on an excursion boat by bays, grottoes and a surprising basalt rock «Gold gate» it is direct to the Biological research station, excursions whence go to reserve. Spring – the best time for visiting, and not only thanks to a pleasant cool and violent flowering of set of unique plants. Main – besides a minimum quantity of tourists. We, for example, have appeared in general unique wishing to get on excursion, so to conductors to us a distance not the usual guide with the monotonous learnt phrases, and the present huntsman! Let its speech not such collapsible, but how much interesting and, the main thing, live histories we have heard about all these «devil's fingers», «gingerbread horses» and "kings" with "retinues" … Here once again understand, how the nature of this remarkable peninsula as a lot of interesting here can open for itself everyone is unimaginably various and what happiness to appear in Crimea during a low season.

Service. To find in the spring in Koktebel habitation with good conditions and it is inexpensive – as easy as shelling pears. Such private hotels, as "Rivazh" (street of Commandoes, 26; bodies: (06562) 24-295) or «the Sea fad» (street of Commandoes, 3; bodies: (06562) 24-844) offer early tourists notable discounts – it is possible to find easily number in cost 100-150 grn. Solid "Galeon" (street of Commandoes, 7-б; bodies: (065) 622-4901) is much more expensive (from 400 grn.), but also conditions here top-level, up to pool and bowling-club. With a public catering at this time it is more difficult than year, but 2-3 institutions on quay work almost always. We consider as their lack nizkourovnevoe, but obligatory «musical service» in the evening. It does not concern rock cafe – there children play really with all the heart.


Epilogue

Our fellow travellers we leave in Nikolaev – their children have very much got tired and do not want more than anything, except Kiev. We still find in ourselves forces on walk on a remarkable Nikolaev zoo, and then – on visiting of Museum RVSN near Pervomaisk (c. Pobuzhsky; bodies: (05161) 54-478, 42-471) which I mentioned in the first part of a narration. Greedy we absorb last drops of impressions of a trip.

No, why drops? Even pacifist Ksjuha left underground command point with burning eyes! And all these mighty raketovozy, these huge "pigs" of warheads, this tsiklopichesky a skeleton "Voevody" from family "Satan" … figures Named by the guide to realise difficultly and terribly. One such thingummy could destroy a floor-germanii … the Maintenance of such complex approximately corresponded to the budget of the big city … In one rocket was on 50 kg of gold and platinum … It is what resources have been spent! And on what? Someone from tourists clinks language and sentences supposedly what fools these our governors, have refused such power … For me is a monument to the buried militaristic past of my distressful country. The big cudgel is necessary to who has not enough brains. Our digression to history of Crimea has once again reminded, that the strong barbarian can easily win the whole civilisation, but very soon itself will be won by culture of this civilisation. Once goty have decided, that they now Greeks. Once and ourselves will understand, that we now Europeans.