Adriactic Sea: tracks of Black mountains

«Here and your country house!», - has fervently exclaimed turmenedzher JUlja, jumping out with back our sofa "Forestera". «There was a small overlay – your number with a terrace will be released only tomorrow. No trouble»? Yes anything, only we reserved in Budve not this country house. Similar, with the same name, but not this. It already the travel middle, and at us the next problem. What for holiday such has stood out?. Yes excellent holiday! In the evening, sipping cold wine under cheese and olives, listening as waves about ancient walls of an old city lap, observing evening vanity on the quay filled in with fires, we any more did not remember small disappointments and troubles. After all behind at us majestic black mountains, ahead the tender dark blue sea, in a stock even the whole 12 days. We in the heart of the Balkans! Well, hi, the country Montenegro.


Ukraine

This summer to us Carpathians or northern coast of Black sea is invocatory shone. Prior to the beginning of holiday there were few days, and my new passport all pined on renewal in bowels of commercial structure at the Ministry of Internal Affairs under the name "Resources-documents" – there could not take advantage of new dark blue crusts in any way. To time for registration of visas practically does not remain. Greece has told «I a sou» till the next year, one friends have started to be going to without us to Austria and on the north of Italy, other all called to Croatia, but at us appeared nothing. While the acquaintance, having returned from Budvy, has not told, that there too it is good. Especially it was impressed with a powerful concert «Rolling stounz» in an open country. To us to see Mika Jagger alive did not shine any more, but the visa-free regime with Montenegro has very much interested. Transit Hungarian and Serbian visas has promised to make firm "MTI-Travel" for three days and it is almost free, if we will reserve through them hotel. Here and my passport has appeared in time in time. It is solved! We go to the Balkans.

Visa procedures we will lower, as from us it was required to give to firm the minimum set of documents only. The question has arisen only on transit terms. Serbia has unequivocally given two days. I.e., time hotel at us is reserved since August, 1st, drive to Serbia we can not earlier than July, 30th. The basic plans at us were just to Hungary – it would be desirable days to go round for five all interesting, that passed earlier. Hungarians too have rested in two days, but, as a result, firm is proud has handed over us passports in which the Hungarian visas opened from 24th flaunted. «Ur!», - we have told. Also have started to study a detailed route on Madjarshchine. Visas at all did not begin to study attentively. And it was necessary. There, in the column «transit Term», appears, there was all the same fatal figure 2.

We were already in a way in 25th morning. Have successfully gone round repair of the Lvov line through Zolochev. Have met at dinner in Lvov old acquaintances, regretting, that is not enough time for dialogue. Have reached easy Uzhgorod. Have fallen in frontier motel to spend the night, to drive in abroad fresh and vigorous. Since the morning have fairly defended 3 hours per turns. And for 10 metres to the Hungarian territory the frontier guard with a smile has informed us what drive today we cannot. The Serbian visa at us with 30th, and on transit across Hungary 2 days are given only. A pier, come 29th. «And 28th is possible?», we have asked. It "is possible", after a second pause he has answered. «And today it is possible»? It "is impossible", - it is already categorical. Further us on half an hour have planted in any "lock-up", have made the report, have given out passports with the crossed out stamps and have wished to spend well two days in Carpathians. How to you such beginning of travel?

And after all still one week ago we were going to here in holiday! Now, on a threshold of Europe, Carpathians seemed boring and sad. Expectation was brightened up only by a meeting in Beregovo with the friends going to Croatia by a column from three cars. Further from there is nothing to do have gone what for on Krasiju, long searched for an ethnographic museum «Lemkovsky manor» in Zarechevo, we have spent evening in one of rest complexes in wood under Mukachevo, and here early in the morning again in CHope.

The turn before entrance to a zone of the boundary control is even more impressive, than the day before yesterday. The Great bulk – Hungarian "gasoline tank trucks". The frontier guard terribly swears at them, but some builds in alternative turn which suddenly breaks before all. « Bribe I do not take », - it is obvious not its remark. On a portable radio set asks someone, whether is not present on the control Kiev"subaru". On our direct questions starts to be confused strongly and passes absolutely without turn. It appears, everyone who will distinctly prove the tourist essence can receive such indulgence. And« on the control "means" a green corridor »on a call"from above". Further – turn to the Ukrainian terminal, turn on the bridge, turn to Hungarians. More shortly, passage has occupied 5 hours – our record! Customs procedures are standard: passports, the log on the car,"grinkarta", a label«UA». About money, medstrahovki and other nonsense at all did not ask. But tobacco supervise strictly – no more than one block of cigarettes on the person. However, it is possible to take without serious consequences some packs in bulk much. Special action of customs officers with careful examination of all cars, actually, also became the reason of such long turn.

Service. That it to appear on border before everything in the morning, is better to use services of big hotel "Europe" (CHop; bodies: (0312) 71-64-00) which costs akkurat in a frontier zone. Comfortable numbers with all necessary stand from 150 grn., there is a good restaurant and a protected parking. To the urbanists preferring city evening physical exercises, we will recommend inexpensive, but decent hotel "Атлант" (Uzhgorod, square Korjatovicha, 27; bodies: (0312) 61-40-95, 165 grn. For a double) in city centre, near to a foot zone. And on the nature to spend evening is better in «the Gold mountain» (with. Barvinok; bodies: (0312) 72-85-80) near to Uzhgorod the district. However, for spending the night here it is necessary to lay out already under 300 grn. For a two, and places on target happen not always. To fill in a full tank cheap, but qualitative Ukrainian gasoline it is desirable on WOG or OKKO it is direct before border. Here it is possible to wash the car, to get any trifles in shop and to buy "grin-map".


Hungary

Well, to what it is pleasant to be in Europe! Roads equal, movement organised, drivers polite. In Hungary it is important not to forget about a passing light at any time (protivotumanki are resolved only in a fog) and standard European rules: all are fastened by seat belts, the high-speed mode 50-90-110-130, is considered passing any advancing, it is possible to turn to the right at not burning right additional section of a traffic light, if the basic green. Excess of speed within 10 km/h is not considered gross infringement. On avtobanah it is necessary to have necessarily at itself yellow svetovozvrashchajushchy a waistcoat which put on at emergency stops (are on sale on refuellings). Indexes are everywhere, in the centres of cities it is necessary to call in on signs «Centru» with a badge in the form of a target. White signs correspond to ours, green – usual country roads, dark blue – avtobany.

The inquiry. avtobany in Hungary paid. Before entrance or on border it is necessary to buy a label which is called Matrica or Vegnetta. The cheapest for 4 days costs 1530 HUF = 5,80 EUR. At purchase it is necessary to enter state number (the seller will prompt where), and the vignette needs to be pasted on a windshield. For stowaway journey painfully fine. 95th gasoline costs on the average 285 HUF = 1,10 EUR, and a difference on avtobanah and in cities the small. On refuellings self-service is accepted: approach on a column, fill in necessary quantity of fuel, not driving off go to pay off on cash desk, having remembered column number. Credit cards accept everywhere. The course of forint during our trip was such: 1 EUR = 260 HUF; 1 USD = 194 HUF.

In Kishvarde (Kisvarda) where first sign of a civilisation in the form of supermarket TESKO, we turn off on SHaroshpatak (Sarospatak). The old city adjusts at once on a tourist harmony. To our attention Renaissance lock XIII-XVI of a century in which there has passed a childhood heroic transilvanskogo prince Ferentsa II Rakotsi appears. That which has selected ours mukachevsky Palanok as the main base of national emancipating war of Hungarians against the Austrians. Here esteem the Gothic past of the lock and its former mistress sacred Elizabeth who has become famous for asceticism and charity more. When, after death of the husband, her have expelled from a patrimonial nest, it has turned all inheritance on hospitals for the deprived. Here and modern "elizaveta" in a wedding dress – newly married are photographed in zamkovom an interior. Too it is a lot of tourists, but all local. Excursion on Hungarian (500 HUF = 1,90 EUR) is something! Unique language of newcomers from Urals Mountains (ugry, ugortsy – living at mountains) does not contain almost any analogies to slavic and romano-German adverbs. However, in turzonah usually are able to express in German or English.

On hills along road boundless vineyards were stretched. We drive in Tokaj (Tokaj) – capital glorified vinodelcheskogo the edge "consecrated" with inclusion in lists of UNESCO. Silent and clean resort small town (it is interesting, are treated here too by wine?) . From everywhere invite on tasting in numerous "vinarni", but we persistently make the way in the centre where personal vinoteku prince Rakotsi contained once. What else monument could establish at an input? Only a monument to the boozer, uplifting a mug praise to heavens! On tasting we have gone to ancient cellars, as ahead was still expensive. Tokajsky – wine of kings and the king among wines which so appreciated at the French and Russian court yard, zatarilis on test in one of shops (6 EUR for a bottle branded, 1,5 EUR for 2 litres table). And classical guljashem (dense meat soup) it is tasty had a dinner already at roadside small restaurant Sarga Borhaz Csarda which has taken places in a yellow small house ancient vinokurni.

And again on traces Rakotsi. In provincial Serenchi (Szerencs) princes posessed an ancient castle constructed in XIII century by monks-benediktintsami. Gloomy defensive towers and now remind of the fighting past of a city, but all looks not so affably. The territory in a condition of the thrown reconstruction, a museum is not present, the restaurant is closed on spetsobsluzhivanie, people it is not visible almost. Hotel Huszarvar functions only zamkovaja, yes the next couple of a newly-married couple recovers surroundings a little. The museum of sugar recommended by the guidebook too has not interested us. Can in vain?

Miskolc (Miskolc) is absolutely an another matter. A city such big, and a life in him such vigorous, that first even have a little lost the way. And having gone deep, have got to the present human whirlpool! The restored old city centre almost completely the foot. Outstanding architectural masterpieces are not present, but full old baroque houses, modern monuments and sculptures, lovely coffee houses and small restaurants. Have seen parade of ancient cars and the beginning of any festival which has collected the whole crowd of the people on quay. Fun, music, a live orchestra … Is visible, that people like the city and try to present to its visitors in the best light. However, tourists usually aspire in suburb Tapoltsa (Tapolca) where the thermal swimming bath in an underground grotto is arranged more. But we on SPA-procedures do not divide the general fashion.

The main historical sight is on other end of a city where the long street along tram ways conducts. Lock Dioshdyor (Diosgyor) amazes with greatness, despite a destructive print of time. Its history leaves in the deep Middle Ages. Repeatedly it acted and as military strengthening, and as a dowry of the Hungarian princesses. However, independently visiting museums to understand in detail it is very difficult (an input – 700 HUF = 2,70 EUR). We could take pleasure only in an excellent kind from towers and find the ending of knightly tournament on shooting from an onion. Hungarians in general are led on medieval history. In the summer everywhere in locks there pass every possible festivals with kostjumirovannymi representations, production fights and strelbami. Colour shaking!

On one of such festivals we have got in Eger (Eger). Historical games in the Egersky lock (an input – 1200 HUF = 4,60 EUR) in a current of several days disclosed vicinities firing from guns, a thunder of drums, a ring of swords and noise of thousand crowds of the people. Each hour small representations with changing of the guard were played. The youth discharged in medieval clothes, showed tremendous show with juggling by flags. Both traditional dances, and medieval singing … And there after all also set of museums, both viewing platforms, and walks on walls. It was possible not to get out of the lock though all the day!

But also below too it is interesting. The big foot part under the lock abounds with cheerful multi-coloured small houses, majestic baroque buildings and different architectural unexpectedness of type of a grandiose cathedral of St. John (1831-38) or a lonely minaret of a Turkish epoch. And nearby – the whole complex of old and modern constructions with thermal sources, pools, an aquapark. Hungarians without exception carried away by water procedures manage to transform into a SPA-resort any place where there is a mineral water. Eger did not become an exception – the most expensive hotels are located here in a zone of the medical swimming baths, some have own pools. And there live tourists – sutra in terms on water procedures, and in the evening in "vinarni" strictly to taste cities well-known «the Bull blood» (Egri Bikaver). Наc the medieval part has arranged completely – here we have looked after to ourselves both pleasant small restaurant, and a comfortable lodging for the night.

Service. Solid Panorama Hotel Eger **** (Dr. Hibay Karoly utca 2; Tel: 0036 (06-36); 412-886) it is easy enough to find under indexes. The prices rather big (the double: 24000 HUF = 92 EUR), but it is very cosy, there is own SPA-centre and a free parking. Senator Haz Hotel *** (Dobo ter 11; Tel: 0036 (06-36) 320-466) in general in the heart of an old city, on area Dobo Ishtvan, also aloud is cheaper (the double: 18400 HUF = 70 EUR), but with an entrance and a parking of difficulties it is more. We have chosen Varkapu Panzio (Kossuth Lajos utca 21; Tel: 0036 (06-36) 322-592) near to "Panorama", it is direct under fortress walls. For 15000 HUF = 58 EUR offer comfortable numbers with the conditioner, the free parking in a court yard through road, to cost enters a breakfast (buffet). The supper for two in turzone here, as well as in other cities of Hungary, manages approximately in 8000 HUF = 30 EUR if to drink inexpensive house wine.

Till the end of day we need to reach the Serbian border. We leave on avtoban М3 Debrtsen-Budapesht. Eyes run up from quantity of typical European indexes on sight of brown colour. Silhouettes on pictogrammes give the general representation what can be seen in the given place. We choose a picture with the most picturesque palace.

For Austro-Hungarian imperatiritsy Elizabeths (Elizabeth, Elzhbetta or it is simple Sisi) have constructed summer residence in 1748 in provincial small town with the oddish name on our hearing Gyodyollyo (Godollo). Last years it is restored not only appearance, but also internal conditions of Hungarian "summer residence" of the wife of emperor Frantsa Joseph. As it on-avstrijski! Outside the building very elegantly also is richly decorated, but interiors are extremely ascetic. The present vital philosophy! White walls recover only pictures, the part from which gives representation about the cultivated leanness of the empress liked by the people. Many not unreasonably believe, that fitness has invented Sisi. In a museum start up for 1500 HUF = 5,80 EUR, having handed over bukletik on one of ten languages, switching on Russian. It is free of charge possible to walk on park where accurate numbers place stools for an evening concert of symphonic music.

District Budapest it is not completed yet, to line М5 to Szeged it is necessary to taxi through a city. Problems any if to watch closely indexes and in time to be reconstructed on outcomes.

Intermediate stop it is done in Kecskemet (Kecskemet). Here such tourist boom as in the previous points, is not present – to a city of only 600 years, is deprived by locks and hot sources. Easy and without vanity it is walked on the main area surrounded with typical Hungarian buildings with figured roofs. Here a harmonous town hall, nearby – a rich palace Figure, nearby – an unusual dome synagogue, churches, theatre. Speak, here many interesting museums, including a unique exposition of children's toys, but we were interested only by those figured roofs in a modernist style.

To see most surprising of them we specially have called in in terribly provincial small town with name Kishkunfeledhaza difficult to pronounce (Kiskunfelegyhaza). Absolutely correct network of very narrow small streets between modern one-storeyed cottages first confuses, but quickly we think how to drive to the centre – to a centenary town hall. No, the truth, on creation of architect Jozhefa yours it is necessary to look though time. Such amazing roof with the most complicated patterns I, apparently, did not see, more anywhere. Perhaps the Viennese cathedral Sacred Stefana can be compared to it? Too hardly. Also what it does in these backwoods?

At last, frontier Szeged (Szeged). A city of the big and monumental, gone through destructive war and pernicious flooding, but revived in shine of neobaroque and exotic of a modernist style. Several years ago, on road in Rumyninju, we called in here to try well-known uhi on-segedski. Speak, primordial halasle any more you will not meet – it is too difficult in preparation. But also those fish soups, which could to us be tried in local chardah (national restaurants), deserve all praises. From other Hungarian delicacies it is impossible to ignore also dense and sharp meat soup a goulash-bograch, same "fierce" paprikash from house lapshy with meat and pepper, nourishing pancakes-palachinki with every possible stuffings.

But not for these culinary masterpieces Szeged is more known. Here after all have invented a salami! No, not that half-smoked sausage that sell in our supermarkets. The present salami prepared in house koptilnjah from perfect meat with addition of a paprika and black pepper. It sell in specialised private little shops, each of which is proud of original recipes. Than to wash down – too not a question. Unique "Unique person" will approach also red egerskoe wine, and apricot palinka "Baratsak" from the next Kecskemet, and even. In Kecskemet, by the way, there is a museum of companion Tsvaka which has invented this jadryonuju tincture of black colour. Gastric means, by the way. A round bottle with a cross – the best Hungarian souvenir (1800 HUF = 7 EUR for 0,5).

Service. Have lodged in the centre, in historical hotel Royal *** (Kolcsey uc. 1-3; Tel: (+36) 62 475-275). All guidebooks recommend its restaurant as one of the best in Hungary. The double room with a breakfast costs 17700 HUF = 68 EUR, but it is separately necessary to pay extra for a parking and even for using the conditioner (this feature is characteristic for many large Hungarian hotels). An alternative variant – Hotel Korona ** (Petofi S. sgt. 4; Tel: (+36) 62 555-787). Too in the centre, but already for 16000 HUF = 62 EUR. With the conditioner similar history.


Serbia

The present police state – the first, that occurs, when notice, how much police on the Serbian roads. However, the border is almost imperceptible – one sight in the passport, one more on the person, click of a stamp and all. And, the Serbian visa, if necessary, can issue for 10 USD directly on point of the boundary control. But almost at once there is a sensation of hit in a certain semiscoop. Here already at all Europe – roads quality is much worse, the culture of driving much more low, on roadsides continuous garbage dumps is less than indexes and only on the basic lines. And, to raise a high fare and parkings have already learnt, and to give for it corresponding service – still is not present. And, apparently, do not aspire at all to it.

The inquiry. High-grade avtobanov in the country only two: Е70 and Е75. From Subotica to Novi the Garden the usual two-way highway with wide roadsides, as in Poland is laid. But paid – from border to Belgrad it is necessary to pay on 400 RSD = 5 EUR on two check points. Restrictions of speed: 50-80-100-120, i.e. on 10 km/h more low, than Central European, that is quite justified in mountains. Indexes happen in a Latin, but more often on Cyrillics – the status equal in rights, but slavic writing to Serbs have both alphabets is closer. Gasoline costs 87 RSD = 1,10 EUR, however its quality preparshivejshee. We recommend to refuel in the adjacent countries even if it is little bit more expensive. The course of the Serbian dinar was such: 1 EUR = 79 RSD; 1 USD = 62 RSD. Cash for all period of stay to remove from a card on the first refuelling as the network of cash dispenses and calculation system on credit cards in the country is developed poorly is better.

We turn off from a highway in Novi the Garden (Novi Sad). After tidy Hungary, driving to the centre of capital of Vojvodina, apparently, that you get to Ukraine the middle 90. All around dirty, collapsing, everywhere goes spontaneous trade, cars go rusty and killed, people go any gloomy. Speak, the central area with a town hall here is very beautiful, but we have gone at once for Danube to fortress Petrovaradin (Petrovaradin). The root "var" in the name obviously specifies in the Hungarian origin. In 1699-1780 on the basis of ancient rimsko-Byzantian strengthenings emperor Leopold I here was constructed. The fortress has turned out very big, many-tier, practically unapproachable. From the river bears a strong resemblance to the Prague Hailstones. To learn something interesting of history it was not possible – in a museum there was target (Monday). But here not so it is gloomy, as below. In zamkovyh premises artists work, hotel Leopold is opened a decent view, on bastions little tables of quite European restaurant have settled down. Looking from above on the bridges restored after bombardments, you are involuntarily set by a question, what here has occurred 15 years ago? What for the conflict such has resulted presently in 300-thousand victims in the centre of Europe?

So happens, that the slavic people of the Balkans, constantly being in dependence from the different countries, were divided not only on breeding, but also to a religious sign. The Serbs focused on Russia have accepted Orthodoxy, Croats became Catholics under protectorate of Austro-Hungary, and bosnijtsev islamizirovali Turks. In the XX-th century the Balkan countries united to uniform Yugoslavia twice. On the one hand, same marshal Tito has managed an iron hand to suppress interethnic conflicts, but with another – the policy of assimilation has led to occurrence of set of national settlements (enclaves) in ethnic territories of other people. This fact, and also attempt of the Serbian leader of Slobadan Milosevic to stop country disintegration by the strict measures, has resulted in long-term and bloody civil war with ethnic cleanings and streams of refugees. Croats and bosnijtsy have united against hegemony of Serbs at West support, Belgrad desperately tried to keep creeping away territories, hoping on Moscow. The end to the conflict was put BY NATO bombs. Serbia has definitively lost the status of mother country after last year's branch of Montenegro. And now also the Muslim province of Kosovo, after United Nations intervention, has appeared on the verge of declaration of independence.

The ten the office buildings destroyed by blows of high-precision rockets, apparently, specially saves as a mute reproach to visitors of Belgrad (Beograd). A pier, admire, that at us these your Americans have done! The capital emaciated infinite wars of the country looks as the become impoverished emigrant – in the jammed smart uniform, at faded awards and with socks full of holes.

Postscoop in the worst displays. On streets dense streams the broken foreign cars, and all it mixed up with expensive jeeps and limousines vlastimushchih go rusty "JUgo" and the "Outposts". On cars with foreign numbers at crossroads flights poor and uninvited washermen of windows rush. Using complexity and a complexity of system of payment of parkings, the controller only also waits from us for a cheap bribe. Hotels either very expensive, or very bad. The rough waiter in tryohzvyozdochnom hotel throws on a table, instead of coffee, a barley drink in a metal mug with badly washed up plastic spoon. Smiling people in streets are foreigners. Look at them it is bad, whether as on enemies, whether as on a profit source. Contrary to ordinary opinion, in Russian speak reluctantly – at once try to pass to English.

But actively go in for sports and sincerely sing. Music Bregovicha all road sounded at us in the car, promoting immersing in shrill-minor atmosphere of the Balkans.

Subjectivity suffices, in Belgrad all the same is on what to look. First of all we go in Kalemegdan (Kalemegdan) – one of the oldest fortresses of Europe (XII-XVII centuries). To colour of its walls the modern city is obliged by the name, and on a root "kale" in the name it is possible to identify Turkish builders. The city and Danube below from here look very picturesquely. In particular, from a survey platform at a characteristic monument to the Liberator (the muzhik naked, but with we we throw) it is well visible futuristic vysotka in the New Hailstones, similar to a spaceship from «Star wars». In a fortress the Military museum telling about history of struggle of Serbs with numerous external enemies works. In territory it is not enough visitors. Tourist movement only in northern part where one of bastions is equipped under national restaurant.

The great bulk of pubs is concentrated to the foot street of Prince Michael named in honour of the founder of a city. Here, on the contrary, always populously. The youth loafs the companies, drinks coffee, sips beer and smokes much – European "discrimination" to smokers in this country is unknown. In Old Hailstones of full museums, theatres, old university cases. Classical architecture of XIX century, traces of the restoration spent once, reigning now neuhozhennost. Similar, become suddenly small the country does not know now what to do with such big capital.

Service. The civilisation in Serbia is concentrated along the basic lines – often there are large complexes refuellings, good restaurants and decent motels in cost nearby 30 EUR for the double. The choice of hotels in the centre of Belgrad, near to peshehodkoj, is insignificant. Hotel Moskva **** (Balkanska 1; Tel: +381-11-686-255) makes quite good impression, but the prices there from 10440 RSD = 130 EUR for two. Will more cheaply manage Hotel Kasina *** (Terazije 25; Tel: +381 11/3235-574), that directly opposite, but also here it is necessary to lay out for a double much – 6550 RSD = 83 EUR. A budgetary variant – Hotel Beograd ** (Balkanska 52; Tel: + 381 (0) 11 / 2645-361) at station – from 37 EUR in very Spartan conditions. We have chosen Hotel Royal *** (Kralja Petra 56; Tel: +381 11 2634 222) it is direct in Old Hailstones. For number which should seem about 20 years ago to us very comfortable, took 3575 RSD = 45 EUR. Parking are not present, in the street it is possible to hold free of charge the car from 21:00 till. In general, with parkings very hardly. The city is broken into zones, in which even on paid parkings it is possible to leave the car or on 1 (a red zone), or on 2 (yellow), or at 3 o'clock (green). Talonchiki are bought in tobacco booths, or at parkovshchikov which with PDA in hands watch time observance. Evakuatory work regularly.

Not being late it is more anywhere, we go on road E763 towards Montenegro. It is already usual two-way line, narrow and twisting. Than to the south, especially mountainous there is a district. Average speed falls because of complexity of passings. Here restriction justifies «80» itself quite of what remind "exhibitions" of the crumpled metal on roadside parking. Especially cautious on slippery asphalt it is necessary to be during a rain. Simply by miracle we managed to avoid failure when taken off of for turn the counter car has broken in drift, roads were developed across and ran in vperediidushchuju a wheelbarrow. As a butt on a head – has forgotten to issue in Kiev expanded to Europe KASKO! It is good, that all has managed.


Montenegro

Drivers of waggons on border wave hands supposedly pass by our turn! Customs officers pass automobile cars quickly and without examination. The smiling girl in firm T-short EUROHELP hands over a flyer with phones of service of rescue and evakuatora. H'm, it so is actual?

The inquiry. National currency – euro. avtobanov in Montenegro is not present, but there are paid tunnels (2,50 EUR). Restrictions on speed are similar Serbian – 50 in settlements, 80 on lines. The passing light is obligatory at any time. Police ambushes meet too more often. Parkings near sights stand usually 1 EUR, but met and till 10-15 – near the best beaches. The gas stations are called «Benzinska a village» – 1,09-1,15 EUR for litre of 95th. On the basic lines it is a lot of indexes on sight, but, having moved down from highway to find them happens uneasy.

Yes, I will tell to you, the line on podgoritsu through Belopole will force to sweat even the skilled subjugator of Crimea and Carpathians. It would Seem, road good, recently reconstructed, with chippers and warning signs, but … the Main problem – very dense traffic and set of "Dzhigits" which dare at such passings, that hair on end rise. Mountains hang over road vertically, and waggons not to cling, often leave for the axial. Especially cautious it is necessary to be at departure from tunnels when such waggon can take off from for 90-degree turn directly on you. But kinds around at times happen such, that pay back all difficulties with a head! In particular, we recommend to turn in ancient monastery Moracha (1252) In a canyon of the small river with the same name. Costs directly at road over falls (a popular place for halts at owners avtokemperov). Very typical for Montenegro on architecture – simple rectangular forms and konusovidnyj a dome. It is necessary to estimate not only magnificent landscapes around, but also ancient frescos on walls of Uspensky church.

Then we yet did not know, that there is other road, even more picturesquely, but is much quieter. We have checked up it on a return way, but I will share right now. So, for Priepolem (Prijepolje) in Serbia we turn off under the index on Plevlju (Pljevlja). 20 km to border road will be mediocre, but in Montenegro territory (border absolutely empty) a line on all other extent svezheotremontirovana. The industrial city of Plevlja in itself is unattractive. It is interesting only by an enormous mosque Husein-plough Boljanicha (XVI century) And also a huge funnel of any mountain-extracting enterprise and a very tall pipe of the atomic power station. But soon between mountains the tape of small river Container will flash, and before you the kind on extremely picturesque arch bridge Dzhurdzhevicha in height of 150 m. the Container Canyon will appear is the second in the world on depth after Colorado – 1300 m. Having turned for the bridge to the right, it is possible to get to high-mountainous small village ZHabljak (Zabljak) and on mountain lake Black at bottom of the highest Montenegro top Bobotov Cook (2522) is a local mountain-skiing capital. On the left the empty road through reserve "Durmitor" with fantastic pines will result directly on the basic line in Mojkovats (Mojkovac). The route of kilometres on 40 is longer, but passing the heaviest site in area Belopolja.

If time allows, very much I recommend one more day to spend for research of mountain areas around Nikshicha (line Е762). It is possible to get there as from podgoritsy, and it is direct from ZHabljaka.

First, Pivsky lake. Its photo on a guidebook cover has fascinated me at once, but even could not imagine, how much it is perfect actually! Simply it is not believed, that this long and twisting reservoir of azure colour has arisen between very tall mountains of all 40 years ago at HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION building. Sometimes all the same it is possible to the person posopernichat with the nature on equal. Small town energetikov Pluzhine (Pluzine) same young, but architects have very much tried as it is possible to enter more organically modern pjatietazhki in surrounding "Alpine" landscape. They look on slopes picturesquely, but is close appreciable posharpany, let alone hovels ashore. From historical sights the Pivsky monastery (XVII century) was saved only In 9 km aside Nikshicha. From flooding it have rescued, having transferred on a stone on 3 km from a former place. Visitors are not present in general. It is strange, that tourism in these places is not developed absolutely not – only one hotel-dohodjaga in a city and one motel on a line. Even to have dinner with a beautiful kind there is no place.

Secondly, a monastery the Jail. To overcome 11 kilometres of a streamer under force only to drivers with very strong nerves. The road on has ah-petri a rest! Frequently 3-4 metres of width. On the one hand a vertical rock, with another – bottomless breakage. Chippers are not present. At counter travel someone constantly should hand over back before the nearest expansion. Cars thus much. Speak, guides in buses offer in this place to passengers amicably to pray. The road to a temple is heavy. At the uppermost level, in snow-white church of Rise of the Virgin (1774) Very similar to the Uspensky monastery in Bakhchisarai, sacred Vasily Ostrozhsky is based. Pilgrims stand in a queue to be put to imperishable hallows and, by tradition, to leave a coin in a crack between stones. The well-known miracle man and the healer, by the way, does not concern our princely sort Ostrozhsky. It has become famous for self-sacrifice in these edges. But why this place is considered at tour agencies the main sight of internal Montenegro, we and have not understood.

At last, Nikshich (Niksic). The city was picturesquely stretched in a valley from different directions surrounded with walls of high mountains, than reminds Sarajevo. Low clouds turn to "ceiling". This effect in cloudy weather is better to observe from height of Turkish fortress Bedem (XVIII century). It is visible, that ruins still have been carefully restored recently, but recently have come to desolation. «Addicts have plundered», - the security guard who spends to us a sightseeing tour for euro pair explains. Advises to visit also Vasily Ostrozhskogo's constructed on means of Russian emperor Nikolay II the cathedral. Near to it the unpretentious palace on architecture of the first high-grade king of country Nikoly Petrovicha from sort negoshej (1900) is found With a museum exposition inside. Before negoshi three hundred years corrected Montenegro, combining an administrative post of the prince with a spiritual post of the metropolitan. The memorable places connected with them will be at us on a route further. For now we will walk on the cosy centre of a large city to local measures, on the noisy foot street Negosha forced by little tables of summer cafes.

Service. Nikshich it is convenient to use as a reloading point for trips to mountains. The comfortable lodging for the night offers central Hotel Onogost *** (Njegoseva 24; +381 (0) 83 246 015; 62 EUR for double). Motels are on the district more cheaply. The magnificent supper at national restaurant Konoba Portun (in a gate on foot street Negosha) has managed to us in 25 EUR for two. In the country we recommend to call in for a dinner in "Etno-has sat down" (33 km of line Nikshich-Pluzhine). Spending the night in one of tiny bungalows is pleasant only to fans of "green tourism», but traditional chorba, the sheep cheese and house sausage is necessary on taste to everyone.

So, we in podgoritse (Podgorica), the former Titograd (in Serbia old indexes were partially saved), the main city of Montenegro. In this small country already two capitals. Historical is TSetine, and actual is podgoritsa. Here the basic government agencies are billeted, all roads here will run together. And so … village village. Seriously, typical Ukrainian settlement of city type, but with good roads and a correct European marking. Is peshehodka, built up rectangular pjatietazhkami, there are pity rests of an old city hardly aside, there is an area still not completed mirror vysotok. And here sense to call in here is not present any. Unless to very big fans of archeology we can recommend to go on searches of ruins rannesrednevekovoj Dukli on northwest suburb.

The first Montenegro state has organised here one of slavic tribes in VII century, right after so-called «great resettlement of the people». Then it was called Zeta, then Mountain Tsrna, or Montenegro in Italian. Almost all history was in dependence from different neighbours – from Venetians to a Turk. But always supported Serbia in emancipating wars. Montenegrins have become famous as fearless soldiers that has been caused by difficult geopolitical position and clan structure of a society. Even priests here always went in civil, without beards and at rifles. In general, typical mountaineers.

The cultural centre of the country considers the city of Tsetine (Cetinje) in 30 km from podgoritsy. The architecture of XIX century – modest in the sizes and appearance private residences in which took places then official bodies and foreign embassies Here dominates. Now in many of them the museums devoted to separate representatives of dynasty negoshej are opened. The palace of king Nikoly Petrovicha, to put it mildly, does not hold out on scope to many landowner manors of Vinnitsa area. The residence of father Nikoly stylised under the lock – Peter II Petrovicha – have named "Billiards" as the billiard table of the sample of 1838 (an input – 3 EUR) was its main sight always. To us has seemed to Montenegro more interesting a huge relief map in pavilion in a court yard. Behind a palace the main relic – the Tsetinsky monastery where since XV century there lived Montenegro governors-metropolitans is located. Pilgrims bless here John Krestitelja's with right hand for what palomnitsam in unseemly clothes it is necessary to be wrapped up in white "shrouds". The Christmas church erected in 1886 on the base of the first capital constructions of XV century picturesquely looks. Though, and by then, here already there was a shepherd's church Vlashsky (1450) – the most ancient building TSetine.

Mountain Lovchen top it is visible from any point of a city. There, under a gold dome of the mausoleum, Peter II Petrovich negosh – the spiritual leader of the nation is based. Not casually for the tomb he has chosen this place. The ancient name of mountain Crna Gora has presented a name to all country. It seemed to us, that black these slopes became from the fires storming everywhere in the country this droughty summer.

We pass last pass, and here before us the panorama of the Budvinsky gulf with a huge city in a valley and on slopes below opens. At the left on a grief the next lock is seen, on turns specific platforms are arranged, but forces are not present more – we want on the sea!


The sea

Budva (Budva) becomes the third – resort capital of Montenegro in the summer. Here the pure sea, the big sandy beaches, magnificent mountain landscapes, a picturesque old city in the Italian style, the best restaurants and the largest discos. Montenegro Yalta. It is very noisy and is populous, beaches are overflowed (to find a free chaise lounge after 10:00 it is almost impossible), in the evenings on entrances to the centre long stoppers are formed. In deficiency not only roads, but also parking places. Each free scrap of the equal earth necessarily belongs to somebody, about what warn strict inscriptions. The big public parkings in the centre are very expensive – from 50 cents for half an hour to 15 euros for days. So possibility and parking conditions should be stipulated in advance at hotel or country house booking.

parkovochnoe the place at a cottage has got to us free of charge, as well as agreed. Other conditions have appeared also are close to the stipulated: spacious number with separate kitchen, TV and the conditioner, a wide balcony (terrace) with a view of the sea, mountains and a city. The kind was really smart, as well as reserved, that, however, has turned back remote road to beaches – 10 mines downwards, 15 – upwards. It is a lot of and other small troubles: water vanished from time to time, number for 10 days have never cleaned, in the complete set there were no normal towels and even a toilet paper. Let alone that, there was at all that country house! At booking the truth without photos and the reference to a site has been offered us Villa Vidikovac. On a place on spostavili in popularity, that travel company Pilon (22 Novembra b.b.; Tel: +381 86 454 874) which was engaged placing in Budve, meant absolutely other private minihotel which even has no name though it is located near to the present "Vidikovatsem". «It we it so among themselves name», - has explained turmenedzher JUlja. Name on health, but what for people to deceive?

We were indignant all road to Old Hailstones. And have then gone deep into a network of very narrow medieval small streets where us has picked up and has incurred on any channel a motley and multilingual stream having a rest. Have suddenly come to be in a silent lane before the tablet «Secret Garden». In a garden behind a wall there was a cosy small restaurant, but one absolutely romantic little table stood separately – at deadlock at open doors behind which the sea lapped. All the same Budva has thought up, as us to meet so that all difficulties and travel troubles have seemed now far and insignificant.

The inquiry. Fish restaurants in Budve expensive – 35-40 EUR for 1 kg of fish of "the first class», 30 EUR for the big dish of seafood for two. The bottle of wine of local stamp Plantaze ("Vranats", "Krstach", "SHardone") at restaurant costs 10-12 EUR, whereas in shop – 2,50. The Hard liquor is even more expensive – 2 EUR for a portion (30) best rakii "Viljamovka" (Viljamovka). Cheaply only local beer "Nikshichsky" (Niksicko) average quality. For correct Montenegro kitchen it is recommended to search at country national restaurants (konobah). Such, as Stari Mlini between Which both Perastom. Here and chorby (soups) sytnee, and pleskavitsy (flat cutlets) are more tasty, and house sheep cheeses are more gentle, and from cancers the head is not ill. As the best beach in Budve consider "Mogren" in a rocky bay behind Old Hailstones, where the well-known sculpture «the Girl on a stone» (an input – 1 EUR, the complete set from two chaise lounges and an umbrella – 7,50 EUR). To spread a towel on a free plot of land it is possible and it is free.

Also the resort everyday life diluted with sorties on coast has begun to flow. Not too a sunny day we have completely devoted two to excursions, the distance blessing absolutely small.

Journey to the Side bay Kotorsky is now facilitated thanks to the small tunnel in mountains. We have somehow missed by it, but have not regretted – a kind on a gulf from the top points of a streamer simply shaking. The sea here presses in a land on 30 km, forming between mountains a huge water labyrinth – a fjord of very difficult form. On its high coast there are some remarkable places which need to be visited necessarily.

Medieval part Kotora surrounded with walls (Kotor) reminds, as it is a lot of for pair centuries enterprising Venetians had time to make for Montenegro. The most beautiful architectural monuments at coast – their merit. Having wandered it is a little on old quarters with a map-scheme in hands, we have understood what to identify each building under the guidebook it is not necessary – the city needs to be perceived and absorbed in myself as a whole. Then and linen drying on a cord, and a cat drinking up from a rather dirty fountain, and characteristic zapashok a sewage – all will develop in surprisingly picturesque picture of the modern Middle Ages. An additional attraction – lifting on 260 metres to St. Ivan's fortress (XVI century). Hour of time and sweat litre will bathe a picturesque panorama of an azure gulf with a white wedge of an old city directly below. By the way, the first Romans have located here still.

Further we get in Perast (Perast) where long since there lived only seamen. Tiny such seaside small town, but here the Middle Ages in general to the full extent. We have not noticed any building similar to the modern! Very much we recommend to fans of quiet rest and bathing from piers (the equipped beaches are not present). Silent quay with palm trees, all some hotels in the former palaces of captains, set of baroque churches, "short-term" groups of tourists which by buses deliver on water excursion to island of the Virgin (5 EUR for journey + 1 EUR for an input). This artificial scrap of a land near to monastic island Sveti George is created by hands of townspeople – in a current of centuries they manually filled stones round a rock where the fishermen rescued from a storm have found out an icon of Maiden Maria. The icon also is now stored in a temple on island, silver tablets with images of various significant events in the same place are collected and the museum of all wonders which were brought from all light home by local seamen is arranged. The tradition of times in a year to pour new stones on island was saved till now.

Hertseg-Novi (Herceg Novi) in a mouth of the Kotorsky bay is already almost Croatia, imposing and European. A city very abrupt. In sense, it is located on such abrupt slope, that equal roads here simply are not present – more and more a ladder. They conduct from seaside strengthening Forte-mare (1 EUR for an input) through average lock Kanli-Kula (1 EUR for an input) to top fortress Spanola (free of charge). At once the Italian, Turkish and Spanish trace in city history is traced. The Mediterranean colour palm trees and other exotic plants, picturesque small houses with shutters at windows create, numerous taverns under canopies on the areas. The city not only high, but also long – a 7-kilometre promenade lasts already to next resort Igalo, where many the big sanatoria and multistars hotels. Itself Hertseg-Novi not so approaches for "vegetable" rest – beaches too close. However, as well as everywhere on coast Boki Kotorsky. Basically here it is necessary to sunbathe simply on concrete quays.

On a return way we get to a five-kilometre stopper which has collected turn on the ferry in Biele (Bijela). Theoretically, it is the shortest way from Hertseg-Novi in Tivat and Budvu, but to stand it is necessary also to those who wishes to drive simply further along a bay – road very narrow. And it that, "vstrechniki"? Really, "cleverest" try to go round turn on the next strip, creating jams and for a counter stream of transport. "Respectable" see off their indignant hooters of horns, do not allow to put in the number. It is shrill policemen whistle. Put things in order? No, only clear away road for someone from bosses.

Yes, it yet Europe, and at all Croatia. Roads for the European Reconstruction and Development Bank bill are reconstructed, but the marking is already almost erased. Architectural monuments on means USAID are put in order, but already on the sly zagazhivajutsja. The people receive the salary in euro, but work frequently still in a Soviet way. And how this country is going to in three years to enter the European Union?

The slice of Europe can be found to the south from Budvy – there we go next day. We pass long and very large beach Bechichi (Becici) over which enormous modern hotels-cities Splendid tower, Montenegro, Mediteran and others. A beach big, but same overflowed, as well as in Budve. Accordingly, both water here muddy and rather dirty.

The tiny settlement Milocher (Milocer) is interesting not so much by an old part, where an islet with the church ruins, typical Mediterranean country houses and small pljazhik, how much the magnificent park. In the heart of the silent shady avenues filled with smells of tropical exotic, the summer palace of the Serbian queen from sort Karadzhordzhevichej was cosy arranged. A place really royal. From a palace the kind on the amazing bay limited to rocky spurs, porosshimi pine wood opens. But the main thing is the cleanest water and a smart sandy Royal beach where chaise lounges stand in one line in 15 m from each other, and it is few people. The secret is simple – visiting will manage for two in 25 EUR, and 15 more it is necessary to lay out for parking in park territory. Security guards in white shirts at every turn sit. The park territory though it is free for visiting, belongs to the elite hotel Kraljicina Plaza carefully preserving rest of the high-ranking visitors from importunate attention of tourists.

500 metres along coast, and from avenue open one of the most romantic kinds in all Montenegro. Small rocky island Shine Stefan (Sv. Stefan) in the middle of a picturesque gulf it is entirely built up by picturesque medieval houses. Once it was the usual fishing small village, but in 1960th years of all fishermen have moved, and their houses have transformed into one of the most prestigious otelnyh complexes on Adriactic Sea. The fairy tale which has become bylju. Each house are separate apartments. Service – at the highest level. Guidebooks necessarily list the whole list of stars of the world scale staying here in due time on rest. And, besides, the most important is the sea. Such transparent water I in a life did not see! On one party from the bridge – more democratic beach, on another – "major" where people a minimum, but the complete set from two chaise lounges and an umbrella costs 20 EUR, and therefore visitors entirely russkogovorjashchie. Our council that who has means to choose at Montenegro coast as resort base it is a place. Unfortunately, a small village on Shine Stefane it is closed on restoration (the foreign investor has redeemed), but with magnificent kinds it is enough private country houses and hotels and ashore.

And more one pljazhno-resort small town Petrovats (Petrovac) at the very end of Budvinsky Riviera. Budva in a miniature. Small fortress Kastello (XVI century) with a museum of the Roman mosaic, small islands in a bay with a traditional churchlet on one of them, small quay with cosy and inexpensive small restaurants, small landing stage with boats and modest yachts, a small beach on which it is not necessary to go on heads. For certain here it is pleasant to those who prefers quiet family rest, or simply wants a relative solitude. The rests simply will have no place to be developed.

Here we turn off from coast deep into continent, having pierced mountains through through the automobile tunnel. It is a little having wound, the road deduces directly on coast of huge lake Skadar, the biggest on the Balkans. Water of a greenish shade on hundreds metres from coast is covered by leaves of water-lilies. I represent, as here it is beautiful during flowering! Tourists roll by boats and boats – carry to look islands, monasteries and pelicans. Official «the base of torpedo boats» is at once behind the auto-railway bridge, opposite to old Turkish fortress Lesendro. Cost of water walk – from 25 to 150 EUR at an o'clock, depending on capacity and rapidity plavsredstva. Expensive panoramic restaurant over water haughty eliminates interested persons simply to drink a coffee cup.

It seems, impressions could not be contained more. On ruins of the Old Bar (Stari Bar; 1 EUR for an input) we get a condition which I name «an immunity syndrome». It when the trained feet still go, tired eyes still see, inquisitive mind still fixes the facts and dates from the guidebook, but already it is few emotions. Only having taken seat in cafe under ancient walls, could exchange impressions about it in own way an interesting place. Removed on some kilometres from the sea the fortress in IX-XII was centuries capital of medieval kingdom Zeta, and even earlier here there was a Roman settlement Antibari (opposite to Bari). Having gone through set of historical storms, the city has not resisted catastrophic earthquake of 1979 which on the destructive consequences has outdone, probably, all local wars. The program of reconstruction and transformation of a fortress into the cultural centre, headquarters of artists, moves ahead very slowly. Has not carried to it – far from the resort centres. The new Bar, that at coast, a resort to name difficultly is a large port with the petroterminal. However, pljazhniki will find where to sunbathe here again.

In Ultsyn (Ulcinj) is advised not to call in at all, if you not fans of east colour in its primordial form. It almost on border with Albania. A great bulk having a rest from the same edges. Who was in not tourist areas of Turkey, that will understand, about what speech. In general, noise, din, spontaneous trade, spontaneous parkings, chaotic movement, an ubiquitous dirt and dust. Pljazhniki lay on chaise lounges and it is simple towels in an environment of a waste of own ability to live directly underfoot tourists at walls of the Old City. It is the most fashionable beach-club! Hotels in the restored buildings of a fortress, probably, are quite good, but an environment …


Epilogue

It is interesting, how felt by one of the largest centres nudizma the Hell-bojana on the border with Muslim Albania? In general, how in one country orthodox, Catholics and Moslems earlier got on? Apparently, not so well. To the European Union, the United Nations and NATO now it is necessary to work hard and means to "civilise" Post-Soviet "tribes" of Balkan peninsula, preparing them to acceptance to Uniform Europe. And what to do? Not to leave preserved this postsocialist «an instability tumour» on own body.

About problems of expansion of Europe we speak under many-voiced howl automobile horns in five-hour turn on the serbsko-Hungarian border. The turn "is emotionally expressed" by signals to slow frontier guards and especially impudent companions, aspiring to go round a jam on a counter strip. Around cars entirely with numbers of the EU countries: Germany, Austria, Hungary … In them sit, on them hang, round them swarty men and the women turned in scarfs loudly communicating on any Arabian adverbs wander. Have unsuccessfully got – on Saturdays new citizens of the European Union in large quantities come back from holidays with historical on novoobretyonnye the native land. But it for a short while, year through 3-4 passport control for them will cancel in general. And for us will leave. We after all at all do not signal following "vstrechnikam".

The way back has occupied a lot of time – is unforeseen more than three days! For a day have crossed with several excursion stops Montenegro, for a day could reach only Budapest (road through capital on avtobanam really faster, than directly on minor lines through Debrtsen), towards the end of the third day were under Exactly. There also have stayed the night in excellent motel "Хутір" (with. Great Omeljana; bodies: (0362) 29-93-58; 150 grn. For a double), fairly having decided, that early in the morning last piece of road will be given easier, than in the late evening. However, according to my optimistic calculations, at favorable coincidence of circumstances, it is possible to reach and for two days – with one short spending the night in area of the serbsko-Hungarian border, but it is too heavy.

For the first time returning to Ukraine from Europe has not called depression. Back line Chop-Stryj has not disappointed with quality reconstructed couple of years, scale road building in the Lvov area has given to hope, the roadside infrastructure has pleased with excellent service and the low prices.

About Montenegro there were inconsistent impressions. Crimea in a square. The sea dark blue, mountains above, a climate is softer, but also service is worse. Probably, I exaggerate, having in many respects deceived in expectations. At least, in Crimea in advance you know, to what to be ready. Our conclusion – it is not necessary to go to Montenegro on rest. It is that country which it is necessary to visit time in a life, but only in transit in a civilisation. We saw there many autotourists from Germany, Italy, France and even the Great Britain. At first could not understand, that they here do. And have then guessed – simply go to Greece transit on coast through one of most is more tremendous the beautiful countries of the Mediterranean.

Duration of a trip: 19 days, switching on 2 days in Zakarpate.
The general run: 5650 km.
The general budget: 2800 EUR.