«SHCHe not vmerla Gumorina …» – on April, 1st in Odessa

There are in the world such places which should be visited during certain time. As Venice or Rio de Janeiro associate with the well-known carnivals, and impressions about Odessa never will be full without JUmoriny. Certainly, for thoughtful immersing in a city it is better to choose other time when in streets it is less than tourist vanity. But at least time it is necessary to participate and in cheerful madness with which to themselves inhabitants of Odessa and numerous visitors in streets of capital of humour annually arrange on April, 1st. Only it is better to reserve hotel in advance, weeks for three-four. All the same people flow at this time the decent. We and have arrived, and in the morning on Thursday, on March, 31st, have left Kiev, being quiet for two coming lodgings for the night.

That who has not had time to sweep yet on a line Kiev-Odessa after reconstruction 2003-2004, I inform, that avtobana there is not present. More precisely, there is no "highway" in that value which put in this term domestic PDD. There is simply good road, on two numbers in each direction on all extent. Places – very good. To such degree, that I suddenly started itself to feel somewhere behind the western boundaries of the Native land. Very similar, say, on Hungarian avtobany (they are worse West European, but quite at level). Once such desired old sites chetyryohrjadki from Kiev to ZHashkova and 70 km to Odessa are already perceived as minor. But all the same for the present it is a lot of restrictions: settlements on a white background, the left turns and pedestrian crossings. ДАІ very much likes these restrictions «60-40» on outcomes, but does not shun to supervise and «90» on sites provoking high-speed driving. Passers warn not always, besides to signal often stir chippers, but the sixth feeling has not brought me never. However, we also did not hurry up. Feeling «a little bit in Europe», I suddenly to adhere for myself began unexpectedly "avtobannogo" a mode 130. In general, the road now occupies approximately 4 hours.

Well to what to hurry, when all the day ahead, and on road there are sights. For example, White Church or Uman. However, during this time the well-known parks "Alexandrias" and "Sofievka" yet do not involve with greens violence, therefore them this time have passed. But between White Church and ZHashkovym it is possible to find still something …

Behind the Sharp Tomb turn to the right under the index on Volodarku. Further – the second turn to the right, on Ozhogovku. Through this village we go all time on the main. Having wound, the road deduces on suburb, whence it is already visible green domes of surprising church in the next village Parhomovka. It is church of Cover Presvjatoj of the Virgin (1903-1906) – A unique monument of cult orthodox architecture. Singularity of forms of a brick construction with pjatidesjatimetrovoj a belltower is visible already from road. Anything surprising – to temple creation Nikolay Roerich has taken a hand. In the beginning of the last century it has become friends with the owner of the local earths Victor Golubevym because of the general hobby for culture of the East. From here – special not slavic symbolism in external and internal registration of church. All these asymmetrical crosses, pagan signs and even swastikas. The official church disagreed to consecrate two years this temple, but nevertheless has surrendered. Personally Roerich posesses sketches of mosaics «Has rescued not Man-made» and «the Cover of the Virgin», and «the architect Pokrovsk embodied dream of beauty» with a mix of Romance and Old Russian elements. It is a pity, that all doors have been closed on padlocks, and nearby there was nobody who could help to estimate to us interiors …

To time remains much, and we have decided to go in Ore Village where, under the catalogue, the palace and park – architecture monuments appeared. From Parhomovki through Volodarku it is direct, and at the T-shaped crossroads for Kosovkoj – to the right, under the index on Skviru. The summer palace of former owners Belotserkovshchiny of magnates Branitsky (XVIII-XIX centuries) is now located in the village centre, near to the Village Soviet (from the main road turn to the right near a green stall). Though the main entrance to it was little bit more low earlier, but to storm this first coat leaving abruptly upwards, especially in crude weather, it is not recommended. A palace, as well as park, in a pitiable condition. Not clearly, that with it peasants do, but there was from it practically only a facade. It is symbolical, what even tablets «It is protected by the law …» on him already is not present. But the interesting bas-relief over a portal, reminding of the most nice couple from a sort Branitsky – Frantsiske-Ksaverie and his wife Alexander was for the present saved.

It is necessary to get out back on the Odessa line (if to go through Tetiev – on circular movement in the village centre it is necessary to turn on the left). Time already lunch and is very good, that in ZHashkove has opened next "Kazachok" – just that where it is necessary is necessary also. The small restaurant has won to itself vital space at zhashkovskih natives – grandmothers with beljashami. However, this victory yet definitive – the spontaneous market has refused to move to the arranged well territory in the neighbourhood, and grandmothers with the trays continue to risk a life directly on a line. By the way, in with. Uljanovka, that near old turn on Golovanyovsk, it is possible to call in on a visit to a megastar of the Ukrainian pop-music to Michael Poplavsky. Here its paternal house, and in this case it has opened own roadside small restaurant «Батьківська a hut». A reference point – the big complex of road service "JAtran" with motel and refuelling. Kitchen worthy, obsluga the schooled. Poor waitresses … Knowing style of dialogue of Poplavsky with subordinates, they can sympathise only. A joke about a laundry and the Ministry of culture it is exact about it. :)

*****

In Odessa at us room in minihotel under the sonorous name "Residence" the Private residence »(street Fontansky road, 71 has been reserved; bodies: (048) 237-2410, 777-4406). Though heard about it unflattering responses, insufficient sound insulation and not too successful arrangement has appeared a real problem only. To find otelchik it has appeared uneasy, the administration has obviously stinted indexes. Near a tram stop« 8th station of the Big Fountain »it is necessary to curtail through ways to a lane and to search on the right for ordinary-looking gate of sanatorium" Peace ", and further – under tiny indexes. In the rest« the residence »has appeared enough cosy, comfortable and, that is important, inexpensive – from 180 grn. For a double room. To Arcadys – a hand a tax, minutes 10 on foot. The taxi to the centre therefrom costs nearby 15 grn. Other decent hotels of a similar class in this area:« Victoria »(street Genoa, 24а; bodies: (0482) 61-8903) and"Valentina"(the lane Resort, 9; bodies: (0482) 63-2587, 60-8918), and also brand new tryohzvyozdochnyj hotel" Маррион "(Dmitry Donskogo's street, 7; bodies: (048) 777-2222).

In the first evening have a little walked and had supper in the centre, and next day have arranged high-grade excursion on a celebratory city. I will state the plan as in a current of day to bypass all the most interesting.

Route is better to begin from a quarter between the Duma area and street Lanzheronovsky. Here the centre of Odessa, here costs the Municipal duma («the Old stock exchange», 1829-37) and the Archaeological museum with the well-known Egyptian collection and a copy Vatican Laokoona at an input, a monument to Pushkin a back to the Duma and a trophy gun looking in the sea from the English frigate sunk during the Crimean war "Tiger", skulptuoa «Children and a frog» and penyok the oldest Odessa oak. And hardly aside on Lanzheronovsky – the well-known Literary museum with a garden of sculptures, in which annually there is a next comic monument to heroes of the Odessa folklore (to eternal Jew Rabinovich, «the Future genius», Michael Zhvanetsky, Jeans Djuku, to the Koste-seaman, etc.) . This time have solemnly opened a monument to the Odessa reader in the form of carried away by reading of a Russian-Ukrainian language of a phrase book of empress Catherine II with favourites. One of the most beautiful in the world Opera and ballet theatre (1884-87), unfortunately, still on infinite restoration – to get inside and to be amazed to foyer and auditorium interiors while is problematic. But from a wood facade for a long time have cleaned and it is possible to admire freely job of the Viennese architects G.Gelmera and F.Felnera which have got the hand on theatres in Vienna, Budapest, Dresden and Zagreb.

From the Duma area the Seaside parkway on which is obliged to make a promenade each visitor begins. A sea and port panorama on the one hand, the restored facades of the smartest houses of XIX century with another and green avenues with shops in the middle. Hotel "London" (Seaside bul., 11) it is known not only as an architecture monument, but also as a place "consecrated" with such celebrities, as Kuprin, Chekhov, Bunin, Majakovsky and Rocks. At desire it is possible to come in dorogushchee cafe, to estimate interiors and a cosy Summer garden with old plane trees and sculptures. There will be a former palace of princess Naryshkinoj (Seaside bul further., 9) in which the Palace of culture of seamen has taken places. In the parkway centre – the most well-known symbol of Odessa, a monument to duke Armand de Rishele in the Roman toga. In XIX century this town governor became a cult figure, having won the wise board of heart of inhabitants of Odessa which in a familiar way called him simply Djuk. All know, what exactly from it «to a bottom the ladder will run directly to port». And what for it is necessary «to look on Djuka from the second hatch», I will not specify. :)

Eventually, the parkway rests against the Vorontsovsky palace (1824-1827) With a belvedere colonnade over the sea. The building, during Soviet time rendered habitable and finished to the handle young pioneers, very much requires reconstruction. Tablets warn what too close to approach it is not necessary, «and that snow bashka will get …». Before to move further on parkway of Arts, it is possible to glance in a silent Vorontsovsky lane, to look well-known for "the Flat house» (the lane Vorontsovsky, 4), at a sight on which from a certain foreshortening is created full illusion, that the building has only one wall – front. Behind the Vorontsovsky palace – «the Mother-in-law's bridge» which aloud vibrates underfoot at the big congestion of the people. On a legend, it is constructed by order of one of local party bosses that it was more convenient to it to reach through a ravine on a visit to the mother-in-law. It rests against «Old Odessa» - a public garden in which «small architectural forms» are collected various, the cities brought from the different ends: an arbour, a bronze griffin, the openwork bridge etc.

The main sights of short Parkway of Arts (and has not understood why it so is called) is the Shahsky palace (XIX century) A reminding medieval castle with east motives. Its Polish magnate Brzhozovsky has constructed, and "shahskim" it became after in 1909 in him the political refugee from Persia, Iranian shah Mohamed Ali (not the boxer) has found a time haven. Now the building belongs to "Sea transport bank". And it is very good. Though inside to get it will not be possible, but the bank capitally reconstructed this monument of architecture and now it strikingly differs from the thrown Vorontsovsky palace. Nearby – one more symbol of Odessa, «the House with atlantami» (Gogol's street, 7). Actually, two atlanta, charged backs globe, also are one of numerous "cards" of a city. Atlanta prop up balconies and other houses in the street Gogol. In lane Sabaneev departing perpendicularly the Bridge it is possible to look at Tolstoy's palace (1830) Where the House of scientists has now taken places. And on Nekrasov's lane from a street opposite side it is possible to leave on Preobrazhenskiy and to walk two quarters on Sofia to palace Naryshkinyh (1805-10) where the Art museum has taken places. The palace is executed in modest classical style, but under it – a cellar, catacombs and an artificial cave with a grotto. However, we have not got, as on April, 1st in all Odessa the day off.

We come back on Preobrazhenskiy and we move to the Cathedral area. Now its main ornament, as well as before revolution, the Cathedral Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy cathedral is. It has been constructed in 1809, but in the thirtieth years of the last century area territory have decided to clear away for cultural rest of citizens by means of controllable explosion. Have restored a cathedral just now, and he a parabottom shines on the sun with brand new gold crosses. But me has most of all surprised, that the Soviet period has safely gone through a monument adjoining to it to count Vorontsovu, the general-gubernatorstvovavshemu in Odessa during Pushkin times. I do not know, than so the count has pleased Bolsheviks, but to "profane" a monument they have dared only a Pushkin epigram "... The Semi-rascal, but is hope that becomes full, at last". So the poet has revenged the former patron for dispatch from Odessa. Now this tablet already is not present.

From the Cathedral area begins eternally filled tourists Deribasovsky, from here annually on 1st of April starts humour Parade. We have just got on the beginning. I will not tell, that the show has strongly impressed me, but, in general, cheerfully. For example, at once three Verki Serdjuchki by the plywood ship "Eurovision" with the slogan «Plywood – the platform engine», very picturesque «new Russian» with pudovymi chains on necks and even the real absolutely undermined newly-married couple in a long limousine. Jokes of the commentator, fortunately, almost did not concern politicians who just raged at this time in a city next "merskim" Gurvits and Bodelan's opposition. Municipal problems were more often beaten. But more people amused itself. porolonovye noses and ears are not so actual, now the peep – to paint itself from a head to feet legkosmyvaemoj a paint from special ballonchikov which sell at every turn. More professional registration of persons and other parts of bodies for a small payment is practised by sidewalk artists.

But here participants of parade have dispersed on the points, and the street was released for rather free movement. To the people here the sea always, but on JUmorinu – especially. To nonconventional monuments in square («the Lion and a lioness», Rocks, «the Twelfth chair», Utochkin) stand turns wishing to be photographed, the square is hammered by trays suvenirshchikov and stands of street caricaturists. To have a rest from vanity it is better in "Passage" (street Preobrazhenskiy, 3) where it is very light and it is beautiful, though the prices in boutiques completely not ridiculous. Even more grandiose shopping centre has opened more recently on the Greek area – it it is visible with Deribasovsky. Over a historical building have built on an ultramodern piece of glass. It has turned out, at least, in an original way. The ground floors of buildings on Deribasovsky also almost are completely occupied by shops, cafe and restaurants. The vacation spot and reinforcements of forces can be chosen for all tastes, but in the excursion purposes it is necessary to visit a bar "Gambrinus" (street Deribasovsky, 31), known since 1883 It, of course, any more that well-known "Gambrinus" from the story of Kuprin with the same name – is present the "not initial" signboard, at the same time is absent the sculptural image of the god of brewing and the pictures representing feasts of nations of the world. And it is located any more on that place (present was on a corner Preobrazhenskiy and Deribasovsky). But there are tables from bochek, and a scene all as is played by the violinist (the truth, not Sashka, and JAshka). And firm beer "Gambrinus" rather nedurstvenno, and the prices acceptable. And here cafe "Фанкони" (street Ekaterina's, 8/10) where the Odessa bohemia was going to once and liked to have a rest the well-known gangster Bear JAponchik, and now on the place.

At the very end of Deribasovsky (is more exact, right at the beginning) there is a monument to the Joseph Deribasu, the first Odessa town governor personally ordering in 1789 storm of Turkish fortress Hadzhibej (settled down approximately on a place of the Vorontsovsky palace), and then supervising a bookmark of a new city. Similar, the sculptor, by the Odessa tradition, has decided to play a trick and on the nice vice-admiral. Its figure with a shovel looks such inconsistent, that is nicknamed by inhabitants of Odessa "grasshopper".

Before to go on survey of the rests of the oldest constructions of a city, we will return on Deribasovsky on a quarter ago where it crosses paved Pushkin. It is the main street conducting from station in the centre. Here too many the interesting buildings, most appreciable of which are «the New stock exchange» (1892) on a corner of street of Bunin. Now in a building in style of the Venetian gothic style (its Venetian Bernardatstsi built) the Philharmonic society though say settles down, that akkustika there it it has specially been planned so that businessmen could not overhear conversations each other. And opposite – hotel "Red" ornated by a baroque stucco moulding (1899) to which the old name "Bristol" (street Pushkin, 15) is already returned. Nearby – Pushkin's museum with a bronze monument at an input (street Pushkin, 13), and also the Museum of Western and East arts in the former palace Abazes (street Pushkin, 9).

In the meantime we get on Greek which the high bridge crosses pair of streets and rests in Rope. On it on the left to Nakhimov's lane which deduces directly to the central input in park of Shevchenko. Here there is everything, that remains from the Suvorovsky fortress (1799) : One tower, an arcade of the Quarantine wall and a rusty gun. All is generously painted graffiti. Obviously, histories fortifikatsionnogo the city authorities of special attention do not give art. As, however, and tourists. Here it is almost deserted even during mass flow of the people. And while trees on slopes have not become covered by greens, from arches it is possible to behold an industrial panorama of huge seaport easy. Here the basic part of excursion comes to an end. Further the avenue will deduce to Lanzheronu where there is a beach and the Ukrainian restaurant "Хуторок" equipped among the rests of a fortress. And it is possible to return a little back, on Quarantine descent to get on the Customs area and on Seaside street to leave to the Marina, to look close at «the Gold child» Ernest Neizvesnogo's jobs, a very tall tower of hotel "Odessa" (byv. « Kempinski ») and a mirror building most Morvokzala. From here it is possible to get out on small sea walk on a boat or to go on storm of the Potemkinsky ladder. 192 steps to overcome not so it is easy, as it seems from above. Good rest on a summer platform of any cafe it will be far not the superfluous. From Djuka we will begin acquaintance to the Odessa public catering.

Most easier to fall under umbrellas directly at the Potemkinsky ladder, but it is better to look for a place more cosy. Still more recently it is direct for Djukom there was one of the most picturesque institutions of Odessa "Dezhavju", amusing visitors conditions in the "Soviet" style of 30th years, on motives of the film with the same name rezhisera JUliusa Mahulsky. Now in a city there was only the second "Dezhavju" with a prefix «Lja Measures», entering into the Kiev network "Trump map". And for Djukom have opened expensive restaurant "Parkway" "(square Ekaterinisky, 1) with staroodesskoj kitchen. On Deribasovsky very much I recommend"Stake-house"(street Deribasovsky, 20), reputed a respectable and democratic institution with excellent service and magnificent kitchen (50 grn. For the basic dish). Nearby – the picturesque vegetable marrow« Friends and beer »(street Deribasovsky, 9), issued in style of old Odessa apartment (40 grn is more tremendous. For a dish). The Ukrainian national colour it is better to look at restaurant "Куманець" (street Gavannaja, 7). Here and the rural surroundings in an interior, and nourishing fat dishes of a traditional cuisine, and gorilochka is drunk especially easily. But the cosiest institution from everything, that it was possible to visit in Odessa, there was a small small restaurant «Thick Mozes» (street Ekaterinensky, 8/11). First, all praises are deserved by the kitchen collected in one menu from the different countries of Europe. Only here in Ukraine we have met, for example, present nitsiansky salad "Nisuaz" (in the menu he is for some reason named "Nicosia") and a correct Italian dessert "Tiramisu" – all from original components. Secondly, service. Good-natured, attentive and unostentatious waiters deserve the most generous tip. And, thirdly, atmosphere of almost house cosiness and calmness. It is absolutely not a pity to lay out 150-200 grn. For an excellent supper for two.

During a summer season in the evenings all fires lights Arcady. It not simply elite beach, is a special zone of rough and not cheap entertainments, the present Odessa Riviera. It as a magnet draws both well-founded inhabitants of Odessa, and visiting seamen, and capital public who aspires on days off to Southern Palmira to inhale sea air and to spend fairly (or not so) the earned money. Here it is possible to spend cheerfully the rest of evening, or even all night long if forces … suffice

*****

We have left pair of sights next morning. We could not leave a city, not having visited "Supply"! The market simply amazes with the sizes. It is partially reconstructed and improved, but to go on light "supermarketnym" to pavilions with standard assortment does not pull. To us in a thick, where a dirt, shouts and a crush. Fish numbers unmistakably we find on a smell, right at the end, if to go from station. What to bring with itself from Odessa, as not dried bull-calves! Also we understand, that all it to eat it will not be possible, but the hand lasts and lasts. Pinned they, whether that? :)

And already behind city boundaries, after district, in with. Nerubajsky have curtailed under the index on the Museum of guerrilla glory. To tell the truth, itself «the guerrilla glory» us who have been brought up by the Soviet educational system in the spirit of proof disgust to any to heroic past, especially did not interest. But here it is possible officially, for 6 griven (plus 40 grn. For excursion) to get to the well-known Odessa catacombs. As is known, on them there is all Odessa. The majority of buildings of a city is constructed of the shell rock which has been cut down in the closed way from 15-metre thickness of limestone. According to the most conservative estimates, the labyrinth of artificial caves for 200 years has expanded till the general extent in 2,5 thousand in km. To extend something really interesting of the guide, zatsiklennogo on heroic struggle of guerrillas-diggers against fascist aggressors, it has appeared not simply. But nevertheless he has told, that before a catacomb smugglers (has unloaded in a silent bay and has forwarded the goods under the earth for limits "rto-ex") actively used; what is the fictions about eremites ostensibly living under the earth journalists eager for cheap sensations (to survive in the conditions of constant dampness really not simply) extend; that here regularly there pass the championships of cave explorers, and recently one group managed to leave from Nerubajsky on a control point in a city of all for 3 days; that the input designated on maps in catacombs in area Arcadys is not present – earlier it there were warehouses, and now a vault wish to redeem and arrange there restaurant. In general, interesting excursion, but it would be advisable to museum administration to diversify the program. After all such theme interesting!

On it our next acquaintance with «a pearl at the sea» has come to an end. Next, but the last is far not. With delivery in operation of the Odessa line the trip on the sea for the capital inhabitant can be compared now to a sortie on a summer residence. Ahead it is a lot of days off, and summer long. Means, we still will return …