Palace Russia: Kiev-Spb-Kiev for 6 days

The main problem of a trip to St.-Petersburg by the car – Belarus. So has historically developed, that just through this country there passes line Е-95 – the most direct and short road from Kiev to Peter (1200 km). Certainly, it is possible to make the big hook through Moscow (+350 km) or small – on minor roads through Bryansk and Smolensk (+200 km). Possibly, next time we will choose one of these variants. But for the first trip, by naivety, we have decided to select the shortest way. Experience has turned out interesting.

In Peter we already happened last year on the white nights but then flied by planes and went by trains. It would be desirable to punch this route on the car. Occasions was at once two – the persevering invitation on a visit from family of Petersburg autotravellers Grehovyh which we have met in the Western Ukraine during their spring trip to Romania, and also desire is non-standard to celebrate birthday Ksjuhi – on a new place and with new impressions. Peter for this business quite approached.

On Monday since morning – in a way! The Ukrainian-Belarus border have reached all for one and a half hour, even with the coffee-break account. Frontier transition in New JArilovichah has met small turn of cars on 15 (the middle of August, the people yet do not bring down in large quantities from Crimea). There and then, on the Ukrainian party, were reserved by short-term 15-day insurance GO: belarusskaja – 30 grn., Russian – 130 grn. The Ukrainian customs have passed quickly, and here the nightmare further has begun.

On subjective sensations to drive on the car to euroallied Poland or Hungary is much easier, than to brotherly Belarus. Procedure simply unique on art of creation of complexities for tourists. So, except the autoinsurance, it is necessary to make following papers: transit payment for days ($5), temporary import of a vehicle ($1,5), the customs declaration (free of charge). On entrance give out begunok in which then put necessary marks. All pieces of paper are made out in one building, but in different windows, to each of which it is necessary to defend turn, running periodically in cash desk. Procedure, at least, on an hour. It is good, though visas and passports are not necessary yet. It is desirable to have with itself small dollars, and the Belarus currency on the operational expenditure is better for getting directly on border too for "green" ($100 on a trip will suffice, $1 = 2120 rbl.) as the course grivni is absolutely inadequate. Cash dispenses and exchange offices can be found only in cities.

"Has especially pleased" for a long time the forgotten document under the name «Customs declaration». As I have understood, it is intended that, in case of need (the person, for example, it was not pleasant), customs officers had all lawful bases for repressive actions. At us with itself only personal things which, on idea to declare not necessarily. But, actually, in the declaration there is a set of ambiguous points (for example, «high-frequency radio passing means» - mobilki!) at which always it is possible to carp. And, rules and norms of duty-free transportation of things and currency constantly vary, and to consult concerning correctness of filling of the declaration there is nobody. More shortly to fill it is necessary at own risk, but it is obligatory the hand, and that will accuse of forgery.

For transition passage have spent about two hours. The mysterious country Belarus – scoop reserve begins. Very much please qualitative, tidy and absolutely empty roads. But to be dispersed it is not necessary (to exceed it is possible no more, than on 10 km/h) not to run into the penalty to $35 (a bribe not to offer at all better). Surprises an abundance of the equipped vacation spots with fungi and little tables, traffic signs «it is cautious, a fog», and also nostalgic posters «the GAI welcomes the disciplined drivers!» . On it advantages of the Belarus roads come to an end. The road infrastructure is not developed absolutely. On 450 km of a line – only two decent gas stations "Belorusneft": in with. Voronino before Mogilyovym and at turn on SHklov between Mogilyovym and Orshej. It is necessary to search for other refuellings in cities. Gasoline qualitative, litre of 95th costs 1600 rbl. = $0,75. Such concept as the roadside cafe, practically is absent. Sometimes instead of them it is possible to meet "Dining rooms". A unique decent place have found out on district Vitebsk. Its "steepness" consisted available protivosolnechnyh umbrellas, plastic furniture and disposable ware.

Along toward evening we were convinced of validity of the signs warning about a fog. Sometimes it really dims road, it is necessary to reduce speed and to switch on protivotumanki. But more often – simply creates around a fantastic landscape. So nespesha, examining dark villages with wooden log huts and having a good time the Belarus radio, passing to conduct from fields, have reached the Russian border.

Live and cheerful Russian customs officers, after Belarus «Werther's robots», are perceived as native. Here too it is necessary to fill the declaration, to pay temporary import of the car (200 rbl. = $6,5) to show the insurance etc., but all is simple and clear, all prompt and explain. Procedure has occupied half an hour.

To Pskov have driven more close to 2 o'clock in the morning on local time. The unpretentious plan of a city was in advance raspechatan from the Internet, hotels too are preliminary punched on a network. Have stopped on hotel "Riga" *** (the avenue Riga, 25; bodies: +7 (095) 363-2549). Double for $40 did not shine with comfort, but to spend the night it is possible. The main thing, that practically in the centre.

Having looked at next morning on unpretentious tourist the plan-scheme of Pskov, have begun to see clearly. A city of churches! 58 monuments of architecture! The main thing is the Pskov Kremlin (or Krom as here speak) which remembers times of princess Olga (it, it appears, was nee pskovitjankoj). Stone strengthenings on a high rock over the river Great do not look unapproachable. The impression is deceptive, fortification thorough enough and difficult on structure. For all history that was possible to seize a city only to crusaders in XIII century, and thanks to change. In the centre the huge rectangular Troitsk cathedral (1699), constructed on a place of three more ancient temples, since Olginogo towers. The simple form does not give possibility to the full to estimate scale of a construction outside of (72 m!), but inside the imagination amazes a huge iconostasis in height about the 9-storeyed house.

All old city is surrounded by a 10-kilometre stone wall with towers (XVI century). We have reached the most well-known Gremjachej towers. On a legend, somewhere in its bowels sleeps an eternal dream bewitched knjazhna, and together with it infinite treasures are buried. And how after that a tower have not carried on a brick? Kinds with Gremjachej hills very beautiful.

On studying of all sights of Pskov one day a little. It is necessary to move further. And though the eye continually teases indexes to "Gatchina", "Tsarskoe Selo", "Mihajlovsky" (Pushkin's manor), "Sujdu" (manor Gannibala – "Curved seashore"), «the House of the station inspector», we decide not to be late yet. A part of these historical places we will visit on a return way.

Journey on Peter has not made work thanks to a map bought on the first refuelling where we have called in to wash the machine from road. Checked up hotel "Admiralty" (Alexander Bloka's street, 8 was a final point; bodies: (812) 702-4650, 702-4660) where to us already give small skidochku as to "constant clients». As for Peter, the price averages: $50-110 for double (buffet) with a breakfast, depending on a category and a season. An arrangement very successful – in central, but a silent part of a city, on island Matisovom. To the Isaakievsky cathedral on foot minutes 15-20. Thus there is still a daily free transfer to the underground and back.

Peter became base for studying of vicinities. The first departure – on the east, on the Murmansk line along Ladoga lake. To begin with we call in to Shlisselburg – a Key-city locking an input from lake to Neva. In 1323 the Novgorod prince Jury Danilovich has charged to the citizens to construct a fortress which have named the Nutlet on Nut island. As for Russia, the stronghold left very powerful – multitower and with internal harbour. However, Swedes it all the same took and kept hundred years while the order on northern suburbs of empire was guided by Peter I. To get on the Nutlet it is possible on a boat from a mooring where there is a monument to Peter. If unpredictable weather in these places does not prevent. We, because of the downpour which has flown suddenly, could not leave the car at all and surveyed an island panorama only from windows. For the same reason have gone to the Museum-diopama «Break of blockade of Leningrad» (that on an entrance to Shlisselburg, under the bridge through Neva) which entices fans of military technics two exotic Soviet tanks of 30th years at an input. By the way, soon company to giant КВ-1 and kid Т-26 will make also unique floating Т-38.

Our way lays further on the east, to Old Ladoga – to one of the most ancient cities of Russia (862) and is exact to the oldest in territory of modern Russia. It still name «the first capital of Russia» as this place was selected for the first residence by "crisis managers» brothers Rjuriki, called to establish on the slavic earths the world and a constitutional order. I.e., from here is Russian statehood which has quickly come through Novgorod to Kiev has gone. The well-known way «from the Varangian in Greeks» from here began.

The small town is penetrated by an antiquity in all senses. The stocky fortress on the bank of Volkhov which was left for a long time by inhabitants, is surrounded by the same stocky and lop-sided wooden log huts in which and now there live people. Monastery Nikolsky's domes (XII-XIII centuries) on horizon on the one hand, and Georgievsky church (XII century) – with another, supplement colour of deaf Russian remote places. As well as all Old Russian fortresses, Ladoga looks frivolous and even any toy. Restoration jobs on the sly proceed, but it is visible, that tourist Mecca this place is not. The excellent Old Russian kitchen of cafe "Prince Rjurik", that through road from a fortress has pleased only.

In other day we have gone on the West, along gulf of Finland. The palace in Strelne which existence meanly held back our guidebook has appeared the first on a way. It has appeared, what is it a miracle of dvortsovo-park art in peak to Frenchmen Peter I, having constructed to begin with nearby has put in pawn still a wooden Travelling palace. Only has soon distracted to Peterhof. And the main palace which began to call Konstantinovsky later, the well-known Rastrelli has finished to mind already at Elizabeth. Absence of data settling about him is not surprising – more recently it have lifted literally from ruins, I think, even in more magnificent kind, than was primary. Smartly everything, beginning from a parking and finishing grandiose hotel «Baltic star» ***** in the next historical building. The hotel, by the way, has appeared at all zaoblachno road – from $150 for number. VIP-cottages over a gulf in which in 2003 there lived leaders of the countries-participants of the summit of EU, including Putin will much more expensively manage only.

As we have learnt later, have revived the Konstantinovsky Palace to the 300 anniversary of SPb at all for the sake of preservation of a historical heritage. More precisely, not only for the sake of it. Now the object officially is called as the Palace of the congresses, and in its common people name simply Putin's residence. It speak and the system which has amazed us first of protection (up to an interdiction for photographing), and KGB-shnyj a kind of representatives of administration, and the extremely severe system of the admission of tourists (it is necessary to register at some o'clock forward, on territory it is possible to move only group with accompanying). This time have decided not to spend time for turn expectation, but somehow it will be necessary to look necessarily at interiors and to taste so grown fond to Peter tokajskoe in the restored wine vaults.

By the way, the Konstantinovsky Palace formally is memorial estate Peterhof branch where we have gone further. Last year we here already happened, but drive by could not – remains not seen too much.

For high-grade survey of Peterhof it is better to allocate all the day and thoroughly to be reserved by money. For visiting of each of ten museums from foreigners tear up the European prices – from 150 to 430 rbl. ($5-15). For Russians of the price of time in 2 more low, the passport in cash desks do not ask, so, for economy, it is necessary to pretend to be citizens of Russia bashfully. For balance and restoration of national pride the classical Odessa trick with price lists witty produplicated in two languages in marshrutkah is recollected: «Вартість pro§zdu – 50 copeck; the Fare – 1 grn.» . The most important problem for tourists-individuals there is a hit in the Big palace, which system of visiting is organised so that to create it the maximum obstacles. The cash desk works two times a day literally on one and a half hour. To opening (11:00 and 16:30) the huge crowd to the people is going to. Advantage at excursion groups. In advance tickets to reserve it is impossible (through the Internet it is possible to reserve preliminary only individual excursion on park for 500 rbl.). So it is better to address beforehand in any excursion bureau in Peter.

Comparison «Russian Versalii» with the French original, on fresh impressions, leaves dual sensation. A Big palace though more sparkling and grandiose, on scale and luxury obviously concedes to a prototype. But park and fountains … Where there Louis XIV to is regular-geometrical creation with its pity streams! Powerful streams of every possible kinds and forms – everywhere. Liked Petruha water elements! Casually to get under a cold shower of a fountain-shutihi now it is almost unreal. All places of "unexpected" occurrence of a moisture are noted by squeal of crowds of the children trying «to leave dry water». It is necessary to descend in Grottoes with excursion about the device of unique gushing system. From innovations – svezheotrestavrirovannyj Bannyj the case with a chandelier-shower. In general, the main thing that with weather has carried, and the pleasure from a pearl of Russian dvortsovo-park art over severe gulf of Finland is provided.

The object with the name difficult to pronounce Oranienbaum in the item Lomonosov became last point where we have reached this day. It is a palace of old Petrovsky friend Alexander Menshikov which rattled in due time to all Europe magnificent balls. In the guidebook it is for some reason named by more arrogant, than Petrodvorets, but it is real, in comparison with it, makes impression of slightly improved shed. Ragged outside and unsightly inside. The complex only that has not been occupied by Germans during the Second World so original interiors and works of art of XVIII century of Visiting were saved is unique Catherine II small Chinese palace with a little bit faded from time, but the real imperial furnish and furniture is worthy only. With might and main restore Waterslide pavilion. I hope, it will be fast not only a usual architectural monument, but also the present attraction for the tourists, wishing will join entertainments of Russian nobility of XVIII century It seems, on the world the term «Russian hills» from here has gone.

Time we have spent the others in Peter. The basic sights have been examined to wander last time so there was a long-awaited possibility simply on streets over channels, like atmosphere of capital of intellectual and creative elite of Russia. The company to us, in process of possibilities and a free time, was made by fidgets Grehovy with whom always it is possible to find the general theme for fascinating conversation.

High-grade rating of Petersburg institutions of a public catering to make by results of two short trips difficultly enough. I will note only the most liked from where we have got purposefully or casually.

First of all, it was necessary to be defined with a place of celebrating of birthday Ksjuhi. It should be an institution in which Peter would be felt to the full extent (actually, for the sake of it and have arrived). The interesting variant with a boat-restaurant on which it would be possible to combine a supper with walk across Neva, has disappeared because of doubts as ship kitchen. With panoramic terraces in a city too it is a little restaurants, but also available do not call delight – a relief flat. Even from the Isaakievsky cathedral kinds not too impress. Neva and evening Peter is necessary to us. Variants are not present – «the Flying Dutch» (Mytninsky emb.; bodies: +7 (812) 3363737), moored at the Exchange bridge. Very expensive restaurant "Terrace" on a main deck and more democratic "Zebra" with panoramic windows below. A smart kind on Palace quay and an arrow of Vasilevsky island. To observe therefrom a decline on Neva in the sincere company, under good binge and snack – continuous pleasure.

Also very much I recommend to plunge into Pushkin atmosphere of "Literary cafe» (the Neva avenue, 18, bodies: 312-6057). From here Alexander Sergeevich has gone on fatal duel with Dantes of what the wax figure of the poet in a hall reminds. In the menu – Pushkin's liked dishes (salty milk mushrooms, a Petrovsky Russian cabbage soup, cutlets pozharskie), are played in the evenings by a grand piano and sing Russian romances (a supper – $20 on the person). For fast, but picturesque perekusa it is possible to choose to a cafe floor-fastfudovskoe «the Stroganovsky court yard» (Neva pr., 17; bodies: 117-2360) where submit classical bef-stroganov. Rather cheaply, if not to lean on alcohol, but, the truth, all is too focused on foreign tourists. Around Mariinsky theatre, near to our hotel, special attention of fans of beer the Irish pub «Shamrock» (deserves Decembrists, 27; bodies: 219-4625). Well and it is simply inexcusable, having visited Peter not to visit the Museum of Russian vodka where, in the end of an exposition, both pour with all the heart, and allow to have a snack well.

Short travel has come to an end, it is necessary to come back to Kiev. The problem – to reach for one day, having had time to look on road still though something. Gatchina with Paul's palace I became these "something". Initially it belonged ekaterinenskomu to the favourite to prince Grigory Orlovu, and has been reconstructed under militaristic tastes of son Catherine the Great later. The palace stays 60 years in the course of restoration. There is a collection of painting and the Greek sculpture. Most interestingly, certainly to examine portraits of members of an imperial family, from it is small to it is great. Especially amazes a huge portrait urodtsa Paul I in an attire of the Great master of the Maltese award – the sickly offspring of the great empress was the big admirer of a secret society of successors tamplierov. In Gatchina of it also reminds the Prioratsky palace in which Paul planned to place «the main office» Malteses. The place in park over lake is chosen very beautiful, and a palace, though also small, but exotic enough, as for Russia, the Romance architecture.

On it we have finished acquaintance to local sights. Ahead – more than 1000 km of road to the house and two borders. On Ukraine have approached late at night. Last incident with belarusami – the requirement of the frontier guard to show the Russian (!) migratory map. As it has appeared, Ukrainians have the right to stay to territories of Russia without registration of 90 days only in the presence of a migratory map with a mark of the boundary control. But at entrance and departure from the Russian Federation anybody about it has not given a hint at all! What relation to the control over this position have Belarus pograntsy, we and have not understood. Fortunately, have beaten off even without a bribe. But, council to all travellers – necessarily specify this moment at entrance to Russia!

In Ukraine we were issued! No, the truth. After the dark and lifeless Belarus villages, brightly shined refuellings, round-the-clock roadside cafes and little shops installed patriotic optimism and feeling of pride of the Native land. We at home!