New year on-polski: Poznan-Varshava-Gdansk

I have woken up from shout of seagulls mixed up with a peal. The alarm clock yet did not invite by a breakfast, gloomy weather behind a window did not promise successful photosession, the weariness of ten days of travel had already an effect, but to sleep it would not be desirable at all. After all all in one hundred metres from hotel there was a quay, the ships, medieval small houses and the well-known Crane. Never thought, that such untwisted, opopsevshy and for a long time the acquaintance on photos the symbol of Gdansk will make on me so strong impression. Any enigmatically it has personified a soul of northern Poland, where the industry and trade, eternally dominating over culture, steels a culture part. Let the ancient port crane becomes a symbol and our next travel to the hospitable country of the locks, the restored relics, the churches which are under construction avtobanov, pork legs, fragrant tinctures and people, such similar to us, that sometimes in them the gleam and our European future sees.

To choose Poland for a Christmas trip have prompted some circumstances: absence of snow in mountains, affinity of an arrangement, an abundance of sights and, at the same time, – an obvious blank in geography of ours turmarshrutov. Besides, recently Poland has joined the Schengen agreement, and soon the visa regime will strongly become complicated. While the Polish visa the most simple of evrosojuzovskih. I will short remind procedure which is in general stated on an embassy site.

So, to begin with we fill the questionnaire which can be unpacked from the Internet (on one sheet from two parties). We write printing letters a Latin. The transcription of special value has no – the main thing that all is truthful. Sections about the spouse and children to fill it is not necessary, if they do not go with you. It is desirable to reserve in advance, to receive acknowledgement-listing (it asked on border) and to specify in the questionnaire hotel in that place where you plan to be longest (we reserved in Warsaw). We paste a photo Further – it should be strictly 3,5x4,5, and the person can occupy 70-80 % of the area, and hair should not cover it. Conformity check a special template, to do "correct" photos send in nearby firmochku which is obvious in a certain arrangement to consulate. « Green-map »on the car and medstrahovki on all travellers it is necessary to show only on border, in the same place they can and be bought. At last, we prepare passports, x-copies of their first pages, and it is possible to go in konsuljatu.

The more close New year or other long holidays, the is more than turn on B.Hmelnitskogo's street, 60. If it is possible to get to inter-season period inside literally for 20-30 minutes on the threshold of a Christmas vacation the crowd of thirsting productive leisure in Zakopanah is going to long before 8:00. There and then trade «zapolnjalshchiki questionnaires» and the "accelerators", ready to sell for 200 grn. In advance taken place in turn. If security guards on an input also consist with them in commercial relations, try not to show it obviously. We have courageously stood 6 hours in shifts, running in next "Baboon" on rest and sugrev. Inside at once send to the first window at which the nervous young lady meeting become stupid from frost and happiness of visitors by indignant shouts on-polski from which it is possible to understand, that you oblazhalis sits, not having addressed to it with a phrase: « Hello! The disposable tourist visa for so much days », and simply having put the passport is necessary to me. Though its job – only to beat out the check on 0,00 grn. For consular services! In other hall accept documents, check questionnaires and photos, specify the purpose of a trip and fix time deliveries of passports. It is possible to get this very day, but more often – on following. Refusals happen seldom. If it not first your trip abroad and done not happen earlier visa regime infringements, to be afraid there is nothing.

This time went with the company. On a back sofa two have settled down "kolezhanki" and the child of one of them. Such non-uniform structure of participants called often some difficulties at settlement in hotels, but allowed them to save not bad. The luggage carrier of ours "Forestera" with honour has passed test by volume winter luggage of five travellers. There was a place for the fresh eurofirst-aid set and a stock of a liquid for washers of glasses. Start have appointed to early morning of Monday, on December, 25th (to avoid stoppers all the same it was not possible). Settlement duration of a trip – 14 full days.


25.12. Kiev – Ustilug – Zamosts – Lublin

Direct "flight" Kiev-IS equal-lutsk with a stop for a dinner in a new auto-grill "Mislivets" (35 km of a line Exactly-lutsk), and we on border. To refuel I recommend on WOG in area Ljubomylja, nearby is and it is far not superfluous before entrance to clean Europe a car wash. Frontier transition Ustilug the dead. Such I yet did not see – we were the first and unique in turn on entrance! Transition combined – at first is accepted by ours pograntsy and customs officers, then Poles from next "booths". It is said that for Catholic Christmas it is always empty – Polish "gasoline tank trucks" celebrate, at the Ukrainian skiers holidays yet have not begun, and lorries here do not pass. To examine all of us there was a laziness. However, the Polish frontier guard very much was surprised to our intention to go on excursion to Warsaw and Gdansk, and the customs officer has in detail interrogated about tobacco (no more the block of cigarettes on the person), cash (it is desirable to have with itself, except credit cards, the decent sum a cash), medical insurances (are got directly on border on one and a half grivna per day from the person) and the reservation in hotel (the copy of a reservation is better for having with itself). The forbidden toning of the car has interested nobody, as forward lateral glasses at us "pure". That's all, we in Poland.

The difference as a road covering is felt not so strongly – before Ustilugom have rolled up excellent asphalt with a marking. I am habitually switched to the "European" style of driving – excess of a high-speed mode a maximum on 10 km/h. Only not to forget about a passing light of headlights – in Poland it it is obligatory in the winter at any time. And here "pontovye" protivotumanki it is better to disconnect absolutely – they are resolved only during a real fog. From other features Polish PDD once again I will note possibility to turn to the right at not burning right section of a traffic light if the basic green is often confuses.

In Zamostsi (Zamosc) and Lublin (Lublin) we already are guided freely thanks to the previous trips. Short excursions on the small towns filled with Christmas vanity we spend for our companions which for the first time have appeared in these places. I will notice only, that discounts of the days off have again enticed in liked hotel "Campanile" (ul. Lubomelska 14; tel: +48 (081) 531 84 00). In usual days of unpretentious tourists unpretentious hotel "Lublin" (ul can arrange. Podzamcze 7; tel: +48 (081) 747 44 07) with the humane prices in 120 zl ($40) for double, too near to the centre.

The prevention! On Catholic Christmas for a supper at restaurant in Poland to count it is not necessary. Moreover, also grocery shops in the evenings do not work. To us has carried, that in a hotel tavern walked wedding so it was possible to book on a plate of the chicken with rice in rooms, differently it should to be content providently reserved of Kiev suhpajkom.


26.12. Lublin – Kozluvka – Kazimezh-Dolny – Sandomierz

We go deep into Poland. Nearby at us residence Zamojsky in Kozluvke (Kozlowka) – one of the most saved magnate palaces of XIX century in Poland. On an input the tablet carefully produplicated, except English, also in the Ukrainian language touches. It is pleasant, that here wait for visitors from our corners of the world. However, further geometrical palace park hospitality does not extend – a museum with original interiors, and also an exhibition of art of a socialist realism in a wing, are closed for the winter. It is one of lacks of winter travel. Not only that short light day reduces an excursion saturation so also the probability is great, having wasted time on any purposeful moving it to appear before the closed doors. It was necessary to count specially a route so that, having run about since morning on excursions to get to the next sight more close by 15:00 (in the winter museums are closed at this time more often), only after that to have dinner, and the remained long and dark evening to spend for long moving to any interesting city where can be both evening physical exercise, and spending the night, and morning excursion.

One more place already familiar to us – Kazimezh-Dolny (Kazimierz Dolny). Comparison with Truskavets arises by itself, but here there are no mineral waters. But there are ruins of the lock with round "lazatelnoj" a tower, ensemble of the Renaissance small houses with ancient frescos, 500-year-old history and beautiful kinds from hills on a valley of Vistula. A life rasslablenno-resort. Tourists do not run with maps and guidebooks, and make sedate walks from a dinner till a supper. As one Polish writer spoke, creative people search here inspiration, and usual become an inveterate drunkard. Here and at picturesque national small restaurant "Staropolska" same "staropolskie" waitresses did not try to understand at all, that our rate does not assume a two-hour sit-round gathering behind beer and bigosom. It was necessary to offer lifting on mountain of Three crosses established in memory of wonderful rescue of a city from epidemic of a cholera. Do not pass souvenir bazarchik hardly away from the market area – such riches of a choice on a route can to be met any more.

The next reloading point had been selected Sandomierz (Sandomierz), were in XI century by one of three main centres of Poland on a level with Krakow and Vrotslavom. Having called in in the centre in search of hotel "Grodzki" in advance reconnoitered on the Internet ** (ul. Mickiewicza 38; tel: +48 (15) 832-24-23, 832-28-22; the double: 170 zl = $56), have understood at once, that the small town completely suits us for a long stop with the atmosphere of the Gothic Middle Ages. However, the supper all the same should be improvised in number from this, that has sent the nearest supermarket – the Christmas proceeded. But for the morning we have gone down in the present vault!

One of the main sights of a city is the labyrinth of cellars under houses of merchants. The Polish word "pivnitsa" (cellar) unambiguously hints at a basic purpose of underground parts of houses – there stored beer! Under merchant Sandomezhem settled down whole "andegraudnyj" a city where there were both warehouses of the goods, and workshops, and prisons, and even "katovni" (pytochnye). Details has brightly described to us local ekskursovodsha on-polski. But its speech was such distinct and well put, that practically all have understood! Owning an Ukrainian language and Russian, in Poland you will not be gone. Roots which necessarily meet in one of these languages have the majority of the Polish words. The rest is clear from a context. But if start to chatter, all these "pshekanija" merge at once in full rubbish – only have time to catch and cling to familiar words. By the way, Poles usually are surprised, why at us them shutochno name "pshekami". While visually you will not show quantity hissing in one phrase on an example of any difficult numeral: «dzhevenchdzheshchi sheshch» (ninety six).

Except vaults, in the Old city there is a nice inclined market area with a town hall of XIV century, a gloomy tower of "Opatovsky gate», a fragment of a medieval wall «Igolnoe an ear», a majestic Cathedral, in which interior the pictures very naturally representing as malicious Turks cut defenceless priests. Contrast of a Gothic enchanting spectacle of a cathedral makes a gloomy Romance temple St. JAkuba (XIII century) at a monastery of the Dominicans, especially recommended to visiting to fans of chains, shackles, metal thorns and other "sado-mazo"-attributes. And, of course, the terrible lock over Vistula. From some foreshortenings looks very impressively, yet you will not bypass around. It appears, the fourth part – one wing was saved only. And there is it now left unfinished. The regional museum has inside appeared is closed, yes not so that and would be desirable …


27.12. Sandomierz – Baranuv-Sandomerski – Opatuv – Kielce – Lodz

Ahead at us much more interesting lock. In general, Baranuv-Sandomerski (Baranow Sandomierski) it is necessary to name a palace, but very defensive more likely. It has been constructed for Leschinsky's mighty aristocratic family on boundary XVI-XVII of centuries when necessity to be protected from neighbours ditches, shaft, bastions and stone walls has already disappeared, but ostentatious power of magnate residences still was fashionable. The courtyard with the Italian galleries very much reminds Krakow Vavel. The museum of interiors divides premises with zamkovoj hotel and restaurant which involve fans of exotic celebrating of New year. Special luxury Leschinsky's apartments not bleshchut, and we to check level of comfort of present lodgers did not begin – to spend the night still early. However, main "counter" of the lock for some reason considers a sulphur Museum – it any more the first century extract in open-cast mines nearby. Uniqueness of an exposition of breadboard models of developments, tools of work and clothes of workers remained us not understood, but Poles from our group of tourists considered all with the big interest.

Direction to Lodz. See you in the evening we have time to visit still pair of places. Under the plan appears Kielce, but on road we get in Opatuv (Opatow), somehow not considered at route planning. And there – St. Martin's huge church (XII century) on a hill. How to drive by? We do a stop. Simply typical Polish district – historical Warsaw gate, one-two-storeyed building of the market area, a small town hall, an accurate roadway, the people conducts children to a fur-tree. Scandalous provinciality, but what contrast with Ukraine! It after all not the tourist centre, and simply small town but as all is pure and tidy... The Unique mention on the Russian-speaking Internet belongs to Russian critic Vyacheslav Glazyev: «Once, during war with Swedes, here was going to shljahetskoe a home guard, on cathedral walls numerous traces of sabres which sharpened about strong sandstone».

To Kielce (Kielce) it is driven in twilight, or in "mode" as photographers and cinema-men speak. This such short-term and very valuable time of days when the sun was already went, but the sky still "works". Its acid blue then very brightly contrasts with yellowness of lighting up lanterns and illuminations of buildings. We park, try to orient on district. It is easy – the city centre is dissected by Senkevich's long and absolutely direct foot street. Such long peshehodki I in a life did not see! On a hill hardly aside the main sight – the Palace of the Krakow bishops (XVII century), comprising the richest collection of the Polish painting. But after 16:00 it is necessary to resemble only around, to glance in a cathedral of Rise and to try to "extend" pair of pictures. « The mode »inevitably leaves. And the gloomy winter sky does not allow to clear up to art electronic"svetopisi"by means of clever Japanese"semisoap tray"Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ7. Fashionable 12-fold optics Leica, 6-megapikselnoj still it is necessary to be able to dispose of a matrix and a heap of manual options with mind, and to study though something, except full"automatic machine", and not spodvigsja. To use a support on such vigorous trips too somehow it is not handy. I hope on hvalyonyj the optical stabilizer, not forgetting and about prosaic« support points »in the form of columns and the trees, allowing if not to shift the Earth then to receive an accurate shot in twilight.

For today there is a march-throw to Lodz (Lodz on-polski, by the way, sounds as "Vuch"). Would foreknow, what is this a city with name such sonorous and familiar since the childhood, easy would go further. Council to followers – pass by! Seriously, biggest disappointment for all trip. The huge industrial city which main sight is the complex of medieval factories with working settlement «Ksenzhi Mlyn» (it not the museum, and simply very old brick small houses with inhabited apartments and offices). And also one more long business street Petrkovska – the longest in Europe! Same absolutely direct multikilometer peshehodka, built up with the former private residences of magnates, in which now shops and cafe. One of the main shopping centres of Poland the city is and now.

Have at random stopped in the first comer motel on entrance near to which pleased an eye national small restaurant. "Retsepshen" it is direct in a bar. Little bit speaking Russian lodger there and then joyfully welcomes us, having learnt, that we Ukrainians. A pier, «on zakupy have arrived»? Even we take offence: «We tourists»! «Ha-ha, - it has fun, are you in Vuch on excursion have arrived»!? «Well, - we answer quite seriously, - We go from Sandomierz to Poznan. Locks, museums we look». «Yes it is fine to you, - smiles, - Here Ukrainians only behind the goods come. Tomorrow will see». Passing by with suitcases, I overhear, as he speaks administratorshe on-polski: «it is improbable! For the first time I see the Ukrainian tourists». For power it is insulting. But only for the morning we have understood, why to us so long did not believe. Have casually lodged near to a huge trading-market complex! It is not surprising, that us have accepted for "chelnochnikov".


28.12. Lodz – Goluhov – Kurnik – Rogalin – Poznan

Half-day it is lost on useless walk across Lodz-Vuchi – absolutely in vain, after all for today at us the wearisome march-throw on 250 km on country roads to Poznan which will be the most western point of travel is planned. It is good, that is where to stop on a way.

In the centre of tiny small town Goluhov (Goluchow) we find turn and narrow road along a park fencing, by restaurant and hotel in ancient small houses. The avenue deduces to the Renaissance Goluhovsky lock (XVI-XIX centuries) At once calling associations with France and a valley of Loire. Specially for us find bukletik in the Russian, published, similar, during Soviet times. From it we learn, that the lock is obliged by the present beauty and a collection of works of art to last proprietress – the Isabella Chartorysky. Before war the local museum exposition was considered as one of the richest in Poland, on a level with a museum Chartorysky in Krakow. Now it is possible to see only a small part that it was possible to return from Germany, and then and Soviet Union. The pacifying relief park with ponds, ducks, a shelter for bisons and a forestry museum has very much liked. Here it would be desirable to walk for days on end on avenues, to read books on shops, is sourish zhurek (such soup on the ferment, often submitted to specially baked bread) in zamkovoj restoratsii to drink beer in museum cafe, and then to go in «Dom Pracy Tworczej» to sleep or be engaged in creative job.

Two more magnate residences near Poznan could see only in rather poor evening illumination. Kurnik (Kornick) is famous for the richest library Titusa Dzjalynsky, which now under the authority of the Polish academy of sciences. The stylised lock reminds the Vorontsovsky palace in Alupke a little – from the different parties it is possible to see Romance, Gothic and east elements. And the big classical palace Rachinsky in Rogaline (Rogalin) should be examined from afar through the closed gate.

The guidebook mentions three 800-year-old oaks in park which are for some reason named by the oldest in Europe. And how thousand-year Oak Zaliznjaka in Cold JAru? Or Ukraine not in Europe? Like from one root we would occur. Knowingly oaks are carried by names Leh (Pole), the Czech and Rus. On a legend so called three brothers, founders of the slavic people. They were going to somehow on a grief around Carpathians, have talked, have decided, that became close on the primordial earths, and have dispersed every which way. Rus has gone to Dnepr to base the Kiev Russia, the Czech has gone on the West to master Bohemia, and Leh has moved on the north, having decided to locate in area Gniezno. It also is nest Pjastov – founders of the Polish state. First Polish prince Meshko I has accepted there a christening in 966 Though, under other version, it was christened on Tumsky island in present Poznan.

The Tumsky means "Cathedral". Actually, it is the main spiritual centre of all Poland. Here the Polish episcopacy has been based and the main cathedral is constructed. Present constructions later – the base of a temple of X century is in a vault. Prince Meshko I and his son Boleslav Hrabryj – the first "official" king of Poland – are buried in the Gold chapel. The vigorous life of a surrounding megacity here at all is not felt.

In Poznan (Poznan) we have spent one evening and half-day that it seemed a little for immersing on Wednesday. The first capital of Poland is worthy bolshego attention. In my opinion, it enters into the five of the most interesting cities of Poland. That easy studenchesko-tourist vanity against an antiquity which so involves us in Krakow or Vrotslave Here reigns.

The centre of a city life, certainly, the Old market conceding in the sizes only Krakow and vrotslavskomu is. In the centre the harmonous spike of the Town hall (XVI century) towers In which it is necessary to look at the Renaissance interiors of the Hall of Councils. A town hall obstroena small kvartalchikom at home among which is both Renaissance, and classical, and even unsightly constructions of a socialist epoch. In the middle of the quarter the fountain "Bamberka" with a figure of the woman with jugs hides. It such picturesque, that became an informal symbol of a city. Bamberami named immigrants from the Bavarian city of Bamberga which here well assimilated, but have saved national culture. Old fountain prozerpiny which abducts lewd Pluton is more known. By 12:00 the people on the area collect every day simple representation of a striking of a clock accompanied by figures of butting goats. Similar, in Poland it almost a sacred animal. The image of a goat can be met everywhere, including on the patrimonial arms of many aristocratic surnames.

Further it is possible to go on walk on small streets of the Old city. As usual, they very narrow. For example, a facade of a parish church of St. Maria Magdaliny (XVII century) to estimate difficultly enough, but it is possible to admire baroque magnificence of internal furniture free. Through pair quarters of the house part, on wide street on December, 27th we leave to a modern administrative centre of a city. It is especially effective in evening illumination. Except university cases and several theatres, the ominous large object of the Prussian lock here is allocated. It «zamkovyj the status» rather conditional – a building have constructed in the beginning of XX century as residence of emperor Wilhelm II. Now it is the Center of culture and, in combination, a cinema. From here already a hand a tax to our hotel.

As well as in all big cities, hotels in the centre expensive enough. It was necessary to check up a little from them which did not frighten off loud network names of type of "Sheraton", "Redissona" and "Merkjuri". Smart «Royal» *** (ul. Sw. Marcin, 71; tel: + 48 (61) 858-23-00) and classical «Ibis» (ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego, 23; tel: +48 (61) 858-44-00) have not strongly pleased even vikendovymi with discounts. And here «Orbis Polonez» (ul. Al. Niepodleglosci, 36; tel.: +48 (61) 864-71-00), despite boring appearance of former Polish "Intourist", it has appeared very cosy and rather inexpensive (156 zl ($52) for double). In the centre from it to stamp all minutes 15. As to a public catering, a picture to make were not in time – had supper in the first institution in the Old Market the Irish pub has appeared which.


29.12. Poznan – CHerneevo – Oporuv

Short day. After running across Poznan will be only two sights on a way to Warsaw, and the second – lock Oporuv – should be and a lodging for the night. The road part, to indescribable pleasure of the most younger member of crew, has fallen avtoban А2 to Poznan-Lodz. Have got on it somehow unexpectedly, the index has appeared only at the last minute. As have almost unexpectedly left recently on avtoban near Lodz. They hide them from drivers, whether that?

Building of new highways goes across all Poland, but very slowly. The basic network should finish by 2020 Not that our Kiev-Odessa, a tjap-mistake and it is ready! Only turn out at Poles all the same avtobany from the big letter, such as in Germany. Have checked up even a roadside toilet – all on photo cells, all works, all is free. For journey, the truth to pay taki it is necessary. Here and there already poustanavlivali terminals with barriers also collect on 11 zl for a stage of kilometres on 50-70. Local are able not to pay somehow. Anyway, on our question on system of payment any driver on a parking sincerely was surprised: «And what, it is necessary»?

To begin with we call in in CHerneevo (Czerniejewo). A palace of XVIII century there so-so – at us such classical tens in one only Vinnitsa area. It if to speak about architecture. But as to safety and present use … Not for nothing here there pass the European summits top-level! Interiors and furniture are not simply saved – they are used directly, here it is possible to live! For 200 zl ($65) you receive the present palace apartments with period furniture, bed-clothes under olden time, in some cases with a fireplace. Only heating and sanitary technician system modern – a tribute to a century of household comfort. TVs are not present, but horse walks, hunting, dishes from game for a supper. Hotel-museum. We examine an exposition of numbers which prepare for the big flow of the people on Silvestrovyj ball (is New year our way). Poles like to mark Silvestra in palaces and locks. It seems, on this case in everyone, even the small town there are shops of evening dresses. Usually after all put on very simply, it is necessary though sometimes and to flash in light.

Already we anticipate spending the night in severe Gothic lock Oporuv (Oporow) XV centuries. Far from it! On hours still is not present 6, but all gate are closed, in territory is dark. The saleswoman in the next shop confirms, that in the lock really there is a hotel. A pier, it is necessary to approach on lateral collars and to wake signals of the watchman. We signal minutes ten – it is useless. There is nothing, we come back to a line in search of motel. By the way, the American word «Motel» in Poland meets seldom. Roadside gostinichki with restaurants have a signboard «Zajazd» (like as an inn) is more often. In such anonymous "zajazde" under Kutno it was necessary to spend this night. Well though in numbers heat was, and at restaurant the fireplace cheerfully cracked. The simple fat country meal remarkably goes under same rough zubrovku!


30.12. Oporuv – neboruv – Warsaw

As though did not resist Oporuv in the evening, since the morning it all the same has obeyed us. Strict such lock, knightly. Costs on artificial lake. Inside the richest collection of ancient interiors with beautiful wooden furniture of a filigree carving. In a small court yard spend the different dramatized representations with participation of modern knights in an armour, with swords and flags. Spectators observe of action from galleries. It is interesting, whether throw ladies kerchiefs?

From Lovicha it is turned off to neborovu (Nieborow). Hardly aside – imperceptible gate of a park complex of Arcady. The familiar name. In general, this area on Peloponnese in Greece is known from myths as the happiness earth, original Paradise on the earth where gods met people. Arcadys are in Odessa and Riga. And in XVIII century near Warsaw Helena Radzivill from a rich polsko-Lithuanian sort of noble family has decided to snatch own slice of happiness. Nearby to a family palace in neboruve it has put in pawn sentimental landscape park with artificial ponds and romantic constructions. This heavenly spot has inspired well-known Sofia Pototsky on creation of one of the most magnificent parks of Ukraine in Umani. For a long time it would be desirable to compare results.

What to tell … Comparison not in advantage Arcadys. It considerably concedes "Sofievke" in the sizes, scale, a variety of kinds, picturesqueness of artificial landscapes and riches of flora. Pototsky has outdone Radzivillshu in all. Unless, except idea. Personally very much it was pleasant to me, as it is thin Arcady displays time current, caducity of civilisations and continuity of history. Classical antique «Diana's temple», symbolising change of epoch the dilapidated aqueduct, "fortress" of the early Middle Ages erected on antique ruins, strict Romance "lock", a Gothic temple … the History visually told by language of architecture «in comics».

To share details from life Radzivillov the security guard who was going round subordinated territory on a bicycle was called. Very kindly from its party. It was visible, that the person has strongly become bored of dialogue – visitors during this season practically are not present. Told brightly and picturesquely, but chattered so what to disassemble that was possible no more half and if to strain. And we all the same on rest …

Itself neboruvsky the palace has appeared is closed, so we still had only dopilit the last some tens kilometres to Warsaw (Warszawa).

On the map reserved from Kiev have confidently taxied to reserved hotel "Praski" ** (Al. Solidarnosci, 61; tel: +48 (22) 818-49-89). There is at us a rule, in the big cities where it is necessary to spend some days, to spend the night only in the centre. The choice has appeared more than successful. The hotel is located on the right coast of Vistula, is direct at the bridge conducting in Stare Mjasto. One stop of a tram or 20 minutes on foot. From a balcony of our double room for 200 zl ($65) it was possible to admire a zoo with bears walking directly at sidewalk, Vistula and the Royal castle in the distance. Whether it is necessary to say, that for decent hotel in the centre of Warsaw – the price very humane. Without a glamour, but it is comfortable and with the dense breakfast entering into cost. Below restaurant and a grocery little shop, on a floor a night bar, a paid parking under windows – that else is necessary? Other variants dug out on the Internet I will not mention at all.

On the Market area in Old Mjaste have noted at national small restaurant farewell to one of our companions. The severe validity demanded its presence at job in the most improper for this purpose day in a year – on 1st of January. The train Warsaw-Kiev and inevitable lomka was coming it at adaptation to Ukraine. And we ahead had a New year!

And the second part of a trip.


31 Warsaw

So, excursion across Warsaw have begun with the Market in Old Mjaste. Would be more correct than it to name New Old Mjastom. It is not believed At all, that all these picturesque medieval small houses XV-XVIII of centuries have been restored after 1944-45 from full zero – destructions in the end of war, at suppression by fascists of the Warsaw revolt, were simply total. Were saved unless cellars and fragments of walls of the ground floors that is appreciable by a difference in a laying. It is strange to see figure "1985" on a facade of any ancient Renaissance building. On the centre of the compact area the bronze woman with the fish tail waves a sword, threatening the probable opponent. The siren, on a legend predicted to fisherman Varsu creation nerazrushimogo cities, is a symbol of Warsaw. Hardly aside – St. John's cathedral (XIV century) Where it is possible to go down in a vault to Genrika Senkevich's tomb. The ground floors of houses of several surrounding quarters are occupied by pleasure institutions of the raised dearness. The world of small restaurants and souvenir benches!

From an opposite side the input in the Old city protects semicircular Barbakan (XIV century). This such special defensive construction of type of the advanced tower. The similar piece was saved and in Krakow, but here it a checkpoint – carries out function of gate. For Barbakanom begins Nove Mjasto where there is a Market area, churches and buildings of later epoch – without special impressions. Having rounded the Old city along the rests of a defensive wall, we get on Zamkovuju the area decorated with column Sigizmunda III which has transferred capital from Krakow to Warsaw. The royal castle (XVI-XVII centuries) also is restored from ashes literally 10 years ago. The exposition of subjects of initial conditions is, throne halls bleshchut gold, but into memory absolutely ran nothing. Whether has affected outwardly imperceptible "butafornost", whether the Polish kings, but Krakow Vavel were over-modest, at all its asceticism, makes bolshee impression. Let alone residences of other monarchs of Europe.

On the other hand Zamkovoj the areas the belltower of a church of St. Anna with a survey platform above rises. To us has not carried – on target to rise it is impossible. We move on the south on Royal road which begins with a business street New light is on a note to fans "zakupov", i.e. shopping. Except shops of every possible brands, on road it is possible to see President residence in former palace Radzivillov, a complex of buildings of university, some churches and set of monuments. At the left there will be enormous against undersized Warsaw a tower of the Palace of culture – an architectural monument stalinizmu. We get to area of the parks stretched on high coast of Vistula Further. The most interesting – park Lazenki with Stanislav Avgusta Ponjatovskogo's palace. Here it is beautiful also in the winter, but in summer heat ponds and fountains of a graceful baroque palace, I think, are especially pleasant. And Yana Sobesskogo – palace Viljanuv on city suburb – it is necessary to reach summer residence by the car or public transport. We did not have not enough time.

Some words about cafe and restaurants. As I already spoke, in the Old city, especially in the Market, all is calculated on very hard purses. So, at restaurant "Bazyliszek" (Rynek Starego Miasta, 3/9) it is necessary unless to drink a cup of coffee with a kind on the Siren. But, at desire, it is possible to find and rather inexpensive institutions with ethnic cuisine. For example, «Pasieka» (ul. Freta, 7/9) it is a little away from the Market where submit firm «beer honey». Muck as on me, but Poles like sweet beer. In the same price category (15-20 zl for the basic dish) restaurant "Zapiecek" (ul. Piwna, 34/36). In the menu is traditional golonka. Still demokratichnee next «Kmicic» (ul. Piwna, 27) – the dinner will manage at 30-40 zl on the person.

In one of such institutions have met New year. At first on Ukrainian time, and then and on the Polish. The people under hours on Zamkovoj the areas have noted the first blow by the improvised fireworks. Celebrating in Warsaw not such grandiose as in Krakow (there there is a basic action which broadcast on TV), but flown into a passion varshavjane have managed to set fire a rocket to a New Year tree! In excellent mood came back in hotel on foot on the bridge through Vistula …


02.01. Warsaw – Pultusk – Nidzitsa – Olsztyn – Edrychovo – Kentshin

Capital it is left early in the morning. A direction on the northeast, in the lake country Mazuriju. Poles spend there days off and holidays on fishing, with bathing or horse walks. Such services give often locks interesting us and palaces.

For example, the Episcopal lock (XIV century) in small town Pultusk (Pultusk) is transformed in tryohzvyozdochnuju hotel with restaurants and a night club. The former residence plotskogo a bishop during Soviet times was chosen by the Society of communication with the Polish emigration «Polonia», and now the diaspora constantly suits here the meetings. There are both fishing, and driving on britskas, and celebratory balls in every possible occasions.

Small town on artificial island over small river Narev which for the unfortunate three channels it is proud «the Polish Venice» carries a nickname, is interesting by three things. First, its market area – the longest in Poland, and can and in Europe (400). Secondly, pozdnegoticheskaja a town hall (XV century) where the museum of local lore has taken places, and also fragments of fortifications with two towers. Thirdly, on one of houses the memorial tablet with an inscription hangs: « Here since December, 26th 1806 on January, 1st, 1807 the emperor of France Napoleon I »lived with the staff. And not simply lived. Under Pultusky in 1806 there was one of the well-known fights of Napoleonic wars! Russian armies of general Bennigsena have stopped approach of Frenchmen and hardly was have not broken their case, but all the same have receded, being afraid of the approach of the main forces. This event 20 years mark dramatized"cabin"in which"fighters"from the different countries of Europe take part on end. But it in July. During other time it is necessary to glance only in Napoleon's museum in the Market.

The hotel-restaurant destiny has comprehended also strict lock Nejdenburg (1400) on porosshem high trees a hill over small town Nidzitsa (Nidzica). It is the first Teutonic lock at us on a route. German knights simply built, but is strong, and with use of some temple forms. Their locks, as a matter of fact, also were the very well protected monasteries. The smart premise is a church or a chapel. All the rest – halls of councils, trapeznye, barracks-cells – is extremely ascetic. In one of dark vaulted cellars we with pleasure had dinner. To examine an exposition with fragments of Gothic painting and could not – it is closed till March. Other sights Nidzitsy have counted uninviting. Hurrying up to be in time to it is dark to Olsztyn, have regretfully driven without a stop and by village-museum Olshtynek (Olsztynek) is such to itself operating Pirogovo.

The lock Varminsky kapitula (1353) in the city of Olsztyn (Olsztyn) too has the direct relation to crusaders though differs from the majority of Teutonic residences big and comfortable enough as for a knightly epoch, the inhabited case. Last time, in XVI century, it has sustained a siege of crusaders under the guidance of Nicolaus Copernicus! The ingenious astronomer of the Middle Ages combined some years here job «the director of the lock» with scientific activity. The basic part of an exposition of a local museum is devoted it. Every possible maps of the star sky, the various astronomical devices, any medieval "kalakljatory" – have many exhibits acquaintances under name books (kvadrant, the sextant, an astrolabe), but in their purpose without the guide not to understand. « To loading »there are other halls of museum Varmii and Masur, after all Olsztyn is capital Mazursky poozyorja. Here 11 lakes only within city line! Small tourist vanity in compact and cosy enough historical centre is provided with set of minihotels and small restaurants. This place is considered also a mounting skiing resort, though hills around absolutely low. It would be possible to remain see you tomorrow, but precious time allows to deviate a little more on the east – to Kentshina.

On road in Sorkvitah (Sorkwity) we notice the index on the next palace-hotel «Jedrychowo». The palace appears the restored farmstead house with a summer holiday zone on lake. A similar complex «Dworek Romanowski», but with loshadmi and level above, have found out nearby and next day. It seems, in Poland their hundreds. With a pain I recollect terrifying condition of many landowner manors in Ukraine with the rusted tablets «It is protected by the law». Would better be protected by the private capital.

Here and Kentshin (Ketrzin), former Teutonic Rastenburg. Today on a place of ancient strengthenings the Gothic church St. YOzefa (XIV century) with a strongly pronounced defensive bias towers. From the river the Catholic temple looks as a powerful fortress with towers-belltowers. The present lock in the neighbourhood is much more modest. Here crusaders suited halts before «friendly visits» to Lithuania. We will break "bivouac" and we. Is better for immersing in atmosphere approaches inexpensive «Zajazd pod zamkiem» (ul. Struga, 3a; tel: +48 (89) 752-31-17) it is direct under zamkovymi walls. We here only had supper at restaurant slightly stylised under olden time. And have stopped as a result in tryohzvyozdochnom hotel "KOCH" (Traugutta, 3; tel: + 48 (89) 752-20-58), it is easy storgovav comfortable apartments to 150 zl ($50) from initial 190.


03.01 Kentshin – Sventa It is sticky – Reshel – Lidzbark-Varminski – Frombork – Gdansk

Great bulk of tourists, especially German, Kentshin interests a little. "Pilgrims" go in next Gerlozh (Gierloz) to look Hitler's rate «Wolf den». We do not carry to fans of the Fuhrer of – will suffice from us neo-fascist graffiti on ruins "Vervolfa". A direction towards coast!

Into a church of a Jesuit monastery in Sventa-Lipke (Swieta Lipka) we enter, as always, cautiously not to disturb the praying. The place is considered almost same popular in pilgrims, as CHenstohova. Here too worship to Maiden Maria, but not to an image, and a legend, and, the inconsistent suffices. One guidebook tells about the phenomenon to people of the Mother of god with the baby – on a linden growing in this place. Another asserts, that under a tree there was only a perfect statue. Ostensibly, cut out its all for one night sentenced to death – after Maria was to it in a dream. Surprised in the speed and quality of job of the judge have spared the condemned man. « Anything similar!, - «superstitious conjectures» the elderly priest at once sweeps aside, - the Statue really was, but who and what for has made it – it is not known ». Surprised rare in these places visit of Ukrainians, with enthusiasm tells about features of a list of a magnificent baroque church of XVIII century, regretting, that we can not see today representation of figures sacred, which dvizhutsja during body game. Rejoices, that we so well understand the Polish language, and even we try to speak. And strews jokes.« About! So you capitalists! », is it has seen our car. To ask about creed to it somehow and in a head has not come. I recollect orthodox priests in monasteries UPTS MT:« In what church kreshchyonnyj? ».

Sacred places proceed. Behind small river before us the heap of brick walls and tile roofs of a historical part of small town Reshel (Reszel) over which the episcopal lock of XIV century towers grows. At last could carry out one of obligatory parts of the program of any travel – to get on any upper part. Here in our disposal there were at once two towers. The kind conventual in St. Peter and Paul's church (1348) Has understood, that time at us has not enough, and has allowed to rise on a belltower, not waiting official time of opening. The kind from a tiny viewing platform at 50-metre height, whence aimed to blow off a wind, cost efforts! With lifting on a tower us have awarded and in the most episcopal lock – as indemnification for the closed gallery of the modern art. Here and perfectly, and that pictures of progressive Polish artists already were in time podnadoest. Whether it is necessary to specify, what in the lock the hotel «Zamek Reszel» with restaurant and a bar in podvalchike-pivnitse works?

Episcopal residences on it do not come to an end, on turn Lidzbark-Varminski (Lidzbark Warminski). The lock all the same «the Teutonic period» – XIV centuries. Impressive and little bit strange by sight – the basic part very massive, and turrets on corners any "underdeveloped". Was a constant residence of bishops Varmii, and then and Kopernik. To it the exposition of local branch of the Varminsky museum is devoted all. We were interested only by the ground floors with a Gothic chapel, a hall «On columns» and wall painting as ubiquitous "modern art" above is exposed. In an old city there is very unusual «a medieval high-rise building» entrance tower «the couple nothing of outstanding churches, yes picturesque small houses over small river Is high brama». At all does not tighten. We will move further on «Kopernik's way».

Here and the sea! The breadth of the Vislinsky gulf tinted by a decline with a plait on horizon it is examined from height of the Cathedral hill in Fromborke (Frombork). All hill occupies huge serf complex XVI-XVII of centuries with a Gothic church, an episcopal palace and patrol towers. Here young Nicolaus Copernicus began still the canon, spending the first supervision over the star sky, and has definitively located in 1524 already as the chancellor kapitula. Here has written the well-known treatise «De Revolutionibus» («About the reference of heavenly spheres»), published it is literally on the eve of his death. Possibly, therefore Kopernik managed to avoid church prosecutions for "heresy" from which its followers have suffered. Kopernik's museum occupies now some premises. The office of the scientist is recreated with the smallest details in Kopernik's Tower, in the former palace of bishops, except an exposition about Kopernik's life, it is possible to examine long a collection of smart astronomical devices and telescopes. All is desirable to be in time till 16:00 when museums are closed.

Here we have faced for the first time attack of Russian. Having overslept after New year, our former compatriots in large quantities have moved to Europe the big groups by buses. Further they met to us who have weaned from Russian speech, everywhere. Together with us they have reached and a free city of Gdansk (Gdansk). On these unfortunate 100 km it was necessary to kill hour three – that repairs, stoppers...

First of all to lodge. Hotels of Gdansk as it is possible to expect from the popular tourist centre and large port, are numerous and expensive enough. As, for example, hotel "Krolewski" (ul Olowianka, 1; tel: +48 (58) 326-11-11) in a characteristic building of XVI century, with a smart kind on the Main city, but on $100 for number. Therefore at once I will tell, that we have found in old quarters literally in 100 m from quay. Imperceptible «the House of the actor» (ul. Straganiarska, 55/56; tel: +48 (58) 301-59-01). Behind a ragged door same ragged, but very affable old woman on retseptsii. Offers numbers with all conveniences from 130 zl ($42) during a low season. We managed enormous apartments with two bedrooms, a drawing room and kitchen for 310. As a matter of fact, the big three-room apartment, old-fashioned enough, but very cosy and with a kind from windows on a church St. Yana. The closed parking below. After evening walk on a city we suited the present kitchen sit-round gathering till late night in enveloping atmosphere of a house cosiness that was very opportunely in the end of travel lasting many days. And early in the morning have woken up from shouts of seagulls …


04.01. Gdansk – Sopot – the Olive – Malbork

It is possible to tell about magic Gdansk hard drinking, it is better in verses. The poet did not leave me, so I will be limited to vital prose.

The old city here, strangely enough, is not the tourist centre. It many times collapsed, but built up it, basically, absolutely in a new fashion. To go it is necessary at once in the Main city, through the Top and Gold gate to the beginning of Royal road. Wide as for the Middle Ages, the street Dluga is built up by houses of rich merchants with very narrow facades, in one of which the Museum of petty-bourgeois interiors is equipped. There lived rich townspeople prostenko, but with taste. In a current almost all 1000-year-old history Gdansk was the main trading city of Poland though has at various times visited both under tevtonami, and near Prussia, and near Germany. The museum of history of a city with rich lists and models of the ships under a ceiling is in the Main town hall on Dlugi Targe. Over the area, protected raged the Neptune with a trident, flights of pigeons – in eternal dispute with seagulls for the control over feeding up points rush. Through Green gate we get on quay.

Here it, the well-known panorama of medieval port on coast Motlavy. From that party – buildings of the former warehouses and barns, with this is quay and a black profile of the Crane. The ancient elevating crane, one of the greatest saved technical constructions of the Middle Ages, the most recognised symbol of a city. The massive wooden wrong side can be studied, having visited the branch of the Sea museum located inside. The navigation history here is presented by every possible boats of nations of the world – the presents, and also breadboard models full-scale. To the basic exposition through the river it is necessary to float from the Crane on the small ferry. It is the present holiday for boys, both small, and adults – four floors of breadboard models of the ships of all epoch and the world countries! The weapon, a rigging, navigating devices, sea uniforms, the diving equipment, the working model of lifting of the sunk vessel … not to re-read All. On pair hours it is possible to send women safely in an amber Museum, from which Gdansk is famous for products since the most ancient times. And then on picturesque the terraskami the Mariatsky small street nicknamed "amber" for set of shops, trading in products from Baltic burshtyna. Here already it is necessary to be on guard – the prices in boutiques kusachie.

And more museums, still churches, still architectural monuments … on all it is not enough One day. Especially, one museums will not be full.

The guidebook extols restaurant «Under a salmon» (ul. Szeroka, 52/54) with tryohsotletnej history and photos of one and a half tens presidents in a hall, including Bush and Yushchenko. Having got to a grandiose premise, at once even you are a little lost. It seems, here it is necessary to come in dress coats and evening dresses. Anything, to democratic appearance of tourists here for a long time have got used. The menu very not cheap but to refuse from firm uhi or cancer soup it is impossible. Most of all the restaurant is known for the recipe of extravagant grassy tincture «Gold voditsa» (Goldwasser) with flakes of the mosaic gold dissolved in it. It centuries enticed into restaurant of the rich businessmen, wishing to underline the elitism. In more democratic conditions the Gdansk wonder can be tasted in the vegetable marrow with the same name «Goldwasser» on quay at the Crane, where besides a quite good choice of traditional fish dishes. The institution with the unambiguous name "Tavern" (ul has good reputation also. Powroznicza, 19/20), but we did not check it.

By the way, Gdansk does not come to an end with one Gdansk. There is still Sopot and Gdynia – all of them smoothly flow from one in another. Knowingly this megacity call Tryohgradem.

Port Gdynia (something of type trudjagi-Ilichyovska at the aristocrat-odesse) have decided to lower with a view of economy of time. Naperegonki with the coming sun have reached quickly only resort Sopot (Sopot). « Epic »the street Grjunvaldsky passes in"heroic"the Warsaw insurgents. In eyes rjabit from quantity of indexes on hotels,"zajazdy"and restaurants. To us spoilt by tender Black sea, it is difficult to imagine beach rest on severe Baltic. Actually, though the resort season here also is short, it is possible not only to sunbathe, but also to bathe. Advantages of a local climate were estimated for the first time by Napoleonic doctor Jan Haffner, having organised the swimming baths chastely divided into man's and female branches by a half-kilometre wooden pier. The legendary Pier (on-polski Molo) – one of the longest in Europe – is found, being guided by an old beacon and a large object of"Grand Hotel"shone in twilight. 500 metres of meditation over sparkling black water. The sensation Here comes, that everything to hurry it is not necessary anywhere more. We have reached an extreme point of a route, and there is only a road home.

However, we will try to be in time still something. Coming back, we turn off on the Olive (Oliwa). This suburb of Gdansk visit for the sake of the Cathedral at the Gdansk theological seminary (XIII century). Trying not to confuse parishioners the idle kind, we listen to the bewitching body which Gothic sounds will not be co-ordinated with elegant baroque appearance a little.

The narrow road filled with evening transport deduces to Gdansk district avtobannogo type. avtoban quickly comes to an end, but good thin line Е75 not too irritates even with an abundance of settlements with restrictions. Music, whether that, has cast? And so easy we reach to Malborka (Malbork) where extensive excursion on the most grandiose Teutonic lock is for tomorrow planned.

While we will understand with a lodging for the night and a supper. Zamkovuju hotel "Zamek" (ul. Staroscinska, 14; tel: +48 (55) 272-33-67) at all did not begin to check – clearly, that is expensive. The same result and from hotel visiting «Stary Malbork» *** (ul. 17 Marca, 26-27; tel: +48 (55) 647-24-00), though conditions pleasant and the personnel affable. More simple hotel "Zbyszko" (ul. Kosciuszki, 43; tel: +48 (55) 272-26-40) it has appeared not only that sovok so also it is hammered russkogovorjashchej by public. Having roamed, have stopped in unpretentious, but clean motel "Karat" (ul. Boczna, 2; tel: +48 (55) 272-89-53). Only the cafe does not work in the mornings for them – the breakfast should be organised independently. Well, we travellers thrifty, coffee and suhpayok at us always with itself.


05.01. Malbork – Kvizdzyn – Helmno – Torun

The one who saw Malbork, hardly powerful any other lock then will sometime name. The greatest Gothic fortress in Europe! It krichashche unapproachable, but at the same time very harmonious kind from the river should inspire at least respect for owners and beat off any desire with them to clash. So XIII-XIV centuries knights of the Teutonic award, "mutirovavshie" from harmless medieval «a red cross», founded by peace Bremen merchants, in one of the most aggressive organisations of time have equipped "den". Crusaders, from blessing of Rome, took under the control considerable territories in the north of Europe, have expelled barbarians-prusakov, have created own state Prussia, have unsuccessfully tried fire and we throw to spread Catholic belief in Russian earths, have then quarrelled with Poles and Lithuanians, and, at last, have been crushed by Vladislav Jagello at Grjunvalde.

But during the best times tevtontsy have managed to create simply exemplary capital of the knightly state on envy all tamplieram and gospitaleram. Complete, three-level, very difficult on structure. Colleagues liked to be going to here on "parties" and «corporate parties».

High-grade excursion on the lock occupies some hours if to aim oblazit all accessible halls, transitions and court yard. It is possible to go independently with the guidebook in hands, or will join one of excursion groups. Internal premises amaze, first of all, with emptiness. Knights-monks lived, as well as it is necessary to ecclesiastics, without excesses. Fur-trees from the general ware slept vpovalku, with women were not known. In an exposition there are single guest cells of the raised comfort (convenience on a floor) and fake kitchen with plastic gammons and sausages. It is interesting to learn about a design of the system of a central heating first in medieval Europe. In addition – an exposition of the ancient weapon and a small museum of amber (to us it has appeared by the way as Gdansk has been closed).

After shock running on all sights in zamkovom small restaurant crowds of children making a din in Russian and their senior companions cannot spoil appetite even. «Hey, as you … the Sir! And where my coffee?». The waitress lovely smiles to us, clumsily, but honesty trying correctly to utter the Polish words.

In one of galleries guides necessarily stop the groups on a corner, designated by a small figure sitting chyortika with the bent mug. Under their version, it is analogue of a modern badge «WC». The long corridor conducts from here in a premise with five wooden booths with holes in a floor and burdock leaves in special holders. Far below – a ditch which has been filled by water earlier. The medieval toilet calls a storm of delight younger tourists!

But it is simply children's babble in comparison with a toilet in lock Kvidzyn (Kwidzyn), the following on a route. How you think, what is this the monumental tower with gallery is taken out so far from the lock? It is so-called Gdanisko, or, easier speaking, a lavatory. It seems, too the greatest in Europe. A sewage was carried away by the channel proceeding under a tower. To check up this version in practice, as well as to examine an exposition of tools of tortures, it was not possible – the security guard on an input has told, that already late for excursion, the cashier is not present etc. I Think, it was simply polite excuse. In the lock at this time just there passed any serious action with participation, judging by cars on a parking, very much high-ranking officials. With music and a buffet table. I hope, they in Gdanisko could get.

What would you think? Ours «toilet round» on it has not ended! Further upstream Vistula we move through Helmno (Chelmno), saved with the Middle Ages in a primordial form the ancient city walls, and also the well-known sacred Valentine's hallows in a church of Rise Presvjatoj of Maiden Maria (at date of enamoured on February, 14th here the present pilgrimage from all Europe). Further on the old bridge over Vistula we get to Torun (Torun), carrying at tevtontsah sonorous, in German short and any "strong" name Torn. Here they too had a lock which was destroyed in XV century by the townspeople stirred up by strict usages. How you think, what part of the lock was saved is better? Correctly, Gdanisko. It to you not a board toilet with a heart on a door – built forever!

The old city is surrounded by partially saved wall with collars and towers. The most interesting – the Curve tower which has shared lot Pizansky. Inside the most part is occupied with a foot zone. In the centre of the small Market area as it is necessary, the town hall, nearby two churches towers. The next monument to Kopernik. Here it has the right to stand more than no matter where. Torun – its native land! The paternal house was not saved, but in a building of XV century on its place Kopernik's Museum works. The exposition is devoted not only to epoch-making opening of the scientist, but also a life intelligent torunskoj families of those times. If it is interesting to whom to take a look at rotation modelek planets round a bulb-sun, bring a hand to the stand on the right. Nearby to go and to New Mjasta. Here too peshehodki, the Novomesky market, churches, but atmosphere not so such historical. All the same the city is famous for a protogenic gothic style, for what have brought it in UNESCO lists. In 2016 it even can become for a year Cultural capital of Europe!

Is at a city and the gastronomic sight. Here bake well-known torunskie spice-cakes. Many consider, that at us do is not worse at all. I will agree only about classical, which with spotty glaze. That with stuffings and in chocolate, mmm … Obedenie! And the form the most freakish that at us precisely does not happen. To buy better in a specialised little shop at the very end of street Zhegljarsky, is closer to city collars.

We have stayed the night in good hotel «Pod Orlem» (ul. Mostowa, 17; +48 (56) 622-50-25) in Old Mjaste. Cheaply enough (from 140 zl ($45) for double) and are very convenient for the pedestrian walks. Only with a parking it is necessary to be cautious – the house old, an arch narrow, a court yard close. Historical traditions of a public catering are supported by ancient small restaurant «Gospoda Pod Modrym Fartuchem» (Rynek Nowomiejski, 8) in the New city. For a late supper, as well as in the centre of other big cities of Poland, it is always open «Sphinx» (ul. Zeglarska, 31) with prosy, but rather nutritious kitchen. And steam of glasses of beer is very pleasant for passing in a vegetable marrow-pivnitse, that in a cellar of the Staromesky town hall.


06.01. Torun – Plock – Lublin

Home straight. The problem – to reach for today as it is possible more close to the Ukrainian border. Slow driving any more does not irritate – a habit. But time all the same occupies much.

Plock (Plock), last point of the cultural program. At us on hearing as the petroleum industry centre vsvjazi with prospective continuation of building of an oil pipeline "Odessa-fords". But is and on what to look by the way. The lock covered with a building fence on the Tumsky hill complete with a cathedral of Rise of XII century is fine entered in a panorama vislinskih kruch. The exposition inside while is inaccessible. Again foot street, again the market area, a classical town hall, a sundial … Any interest. It is weariness? Absolutely tasteless dinner in staropolskoj restoratsii. This satiation?

How so! Last halt in motel "Biesiada" (tel: +48 (081) 501-93-35) in 12 km from Lublin. Nearby huge two-storeyed restaurant-conveyor. To the people weight. Now it is clear, why in Lublin in the evenings so there are not enough people. Sljunootdelitelnoe the menu with shish kebabs (type of ours), golonkami (pork legs), pstronami (zharennaja a trout), others meat and fish dishes. ZHureki, fljachki, mushroom soups etc. the Borsch with sorcerers is a beet broth with pelmeni. Pies are vareniki. Cheesecakes are baked puddings. Portions huge. Beer – in litre glasses. Saturation factory! Waiters rush as ugorelye. Forget Nothing, as it is necessary to do the order on cash desk, and bring, being guided under number on a little table. But a fast food to name this temple of a Polish cuisine language will not turn.

Farewell to Poland has turned out rather tiresome for a stomach. In motel came back with round stomachs. And below our car hammered under an outset by souvenirs and the best product samples of the Polish alcoholic industry waited mornings. At us such you will not get. For a long time did not observe in supermarkets neither zubrovki, nor vishnyovki, krupnika.


07.01. Lublin – JAgodin – Kiev

Border in JAgodine have passed almost not braking. Even it is surprising, after all Christmas holidays just come to an end, and the people should flock from Are dug … It is snowless winter have compelled all to sit out on houses?

To us two winter weeks with spring weather have appeared very opportunely. The most part of Poland is registered now among the experienced earths. There are, of course, not visited areas in the northwest, and on a route it was necessary to pass much. Anything! It means only, that following transit fares through Poland all the same do not remain without opening.