The Prague winter

Right after New year to Prague to go it is impossible. At this time the city is occupied by Russian. In all Europe a Christmas vacation just comes to an end, on 1st of January Europeans go on job. And in the Post-Soviet countries holidays only begin. It is considered to be, that winter Prague under a snow coverlet is especially romantic. Therefore not anxious by skis russkogovorjashchie tourists who do not pull Paris under the budget, first of all reflect on Christmas week in Prague. Czechs have understood for a long time it and in the beginning of January completely reorient tourist industry on the CIS. Russian becomes in turzone language of international dialogue. Shops prolong Christmas sales for a week. Restaurants adapt the menu under tastes of east neighbours. Prazhane are going to endure with firmness all displays of width of Russian soul, having forgotten for a while about the Soviet tanks on which 40 years ago there came fathers of present tourists. Annual invasion of "liberators" from the east promises superfluous week of profitable business.

Here and we with Ksjuhoj have not thought up anything more original, than to spend a winter vacation in Prague. Each of us here already happened in due time on affairs, but general impressions yet were not. It was necessary to fill this blank. Could leave only on 31st of December so New year to meet have solved in Lvov. The transit country have chosen Poland which does not demand visas to journey on the territory. To return it was necessary on 10th of January.

Visa history

To receive the Czech visa independently it is very simple, if there is a possibility in advance to reserve hotels for all planned time of stay in the country. Having rummaged on the Internet, have picked up hotel Hotel Junior *** (Senovazne nam. 21, Praha 1; Tel. +420 222 248 057). Running forward, I will notice, that unique, but conclusive advantage of it otelchika – an arrangement. In the centre, in two quarters from the Powder tower. Numbers have appeared an average level parshivosti, a buffet for a breakfast – high-grade enough, but all the rest – full ATStoj. All the same it is better to use network hotels when precisely you know, for what level of service you pay money. The main thing that reserved room for necessary term on a credit card, have received listing-acknowledgement and easy were engaged in other documents.

For registration of the Czech visa following documents are necessary:

• The filled questionnaire with the pasted photo 3,5х4,5;
• The passport and copy of its first page;
• The document confirming reservation of hotel for all term of stay in Czechia (it is possible to reserve on the Internet - listings with acknowledgement approach), or the invitation;
• The medical insurance and its copy.

The detailed information can be found on an embassy site. It is necessary or to unpack the questionnaire from a site and to fill by hand, or to use the online form. To fill it is necessary a Latin. The photo should be located accurately in the frame taken away to it.

Having experimented with the online form and having faced not clear moments, has decided not to risk and use services "zapolnjalshchikov". As it was necessary to buy the insurance. Have as a result addressed in tour agency "Dominoes" (street Bogdana Khmelnitskiy, 66, office 2), that is direct near the Czech consulate. Specialises on Czechia - sell rounds, reserve hotels, give out medstrahovki (30 grn. For 10 days) also fill questionnaires (10 grn. For the questionnaire). We already had time to reserve hotel on the Internet so the insurance and the questionnaire was required only. But to us, as an exception, have suggested also to bring for us documents. As I have understood, accept them on Mondays, environments and Fridays. To come it is necessary till 9:00, and that are the big turns. Service «without turn» costs $20. All it according to the manager, did not check. To wait the visa (or refusal) - till 10 days. The passports glued by desired pieces of paper solemnly have returned to us in 6 days.

Further all as usually: a grin-map (150 grn. For 15 days), maps and guidebooks on popudrenko, x-copies of all documents in a suitcase, money for a card and a small reserve a cash, a first-aid set complete set, careful gathering with cutting off of all superfluous, a full tank of gasoline, the pressure control in wheels also it is possible to go.

New Year

Road to Lvov through we will exactly lower – it is already described repeatedly. I will notice only our surprise by that on 31st of December (!) on all extent of a line repairmen vigorously patched holes in asphalt which have appeared after frosts and thaw. On a return way of large holes any more was not. Usually the Society for the Promotion of Motoring and Road Improvement prefers to wait till the spring while asphalt absolutely will descend from roads together with snow …

In Lvov the double room in hotel «At the Burgher» (street Ex, 73 has been in advance reserved; bodies: (0322) 76-12-51). And again the same science – not to rely on unchecked variants. The minihotel has appeared «with pontami», but posharpannym and absolutely uncomfortable, and service – mediocre, as for such money. Besides and without that the considerable price (very much it would be desirable to live in the centre, and it is expensive) has smoothly increased with 300 to 375 grn., as the cheapest number has appeared absolutely any. Have then learnt, that in smart "Grand Hotel" **** (avenue of Freedom, 13; bodies: (0322) 76-91-70) were New Year's discounts and number there would manage even more cheaply, but at us the advance payment has already been made. And the best variant on a parity of the price and quality in this price category (250-300 grn.) still remains "Volter" (street Lipinsky, 60; bodies: (0322) 94-88-88). The review of other hotels of Lvov can be found in the previous reports.

New year in Lvov is an easy madness with extreme elements. Dvizhnjak on Freedom prospectus does not stop till the morning. All around shoots and blows up. In rough human krugoverti everything mix up, despite age a floor and the social status. Not for long and to be lost, so it is better to have always at itself a mobile phone and money for a taxi.

New year have cheerfully met in «the Jazz the Fan Club» (street Teatralnja, 24; bodies: (0322) 74-23-84) in the company kievljan among which there were even correspondence acquaintances. I recommend this small and cosy institution for a romantic supper under pleasant music. The prices do not bite almost (25-35 grn. For the basic dish). Liked "Amadej" (square Katedralnaja, 7; bodies: (032) 297-80-22), unfortunately, did not accept individual orders for a New Year's eve. There we have traditionally come to have supper already next day. More in detail about the best, in my opinion, representatives of the Lvov public catering – in the report across Lvov and Krakow.

Road and road questions

Towards frontier were put forward early in the morning on 2nd of January. A break place this time have chosen frontier transition "Krakovets". Calculation that right after holidays to the people will be less, was justified not quite – transition has occupied more than two and a half hours. All the same fastest to pass through "JAgodin" as shows experience, and recommend the skilled.

At once I will make small deviation about routes. This trip has confirmed to us correctness of those who defends a priority of routes through Lublin, passing the overloaded line Przemysl-Krakow. So, that quickly and without hassle to reach Krakow, it is necessary to go through Lutsk to Lublin or Zamost, and therefrom – to Krakow. We here because of a binding to Lvov have been compelled to choose a traditional route through Przemysl-Rzeszow and have got between Tarnow and Krakow to such stopper that these overcame of 50 km almost 3 hours. Prague is better to reach through Krakow and Brno. In this case on a considerable part of a route as across Ukraine, and abroad, will be chetyryohpolosnye the lines, allowing the raised speed and free passings of slow movers. On a return way from Prague we also have checked up a route through Vrotslav-glad-ljublin which recommended electronic Autorout versions 2002 but so it has turned out more difficult – to have long to go on narrow roads and through mountains.

Once again I will remind and of features PDD. In Poland following standard restrictions are accepted: 60 in settlements (white signs), 90 on usual roads (green signs), 110 on chetyryohpoloskah, 130 on avtobanah (dark blue signs). In Czechia: 50 in settlements, 90 on usual roads, 110 on «roads for cars» (this rare sign at us meets there often enough), 130 on avtobanah. In most cases you will not stop, if exceed kilometres on 5-10. In Poland has easy driven in such mode by several police ambushes, but in Czechia observed an effective scene of a stop of the malicious infringer – with flashers and sirens. During the winter period (on November, 1st - on March, 31st) in both countries the passing light is obligatory. Painfully fine also for not fastened belts (back passengers too!) And conversations on mobilke. At circular movement advantage almost always at those who already on a circle (exceptions obviously specify signs). The rule of the right additional section of a traffic light allows to turn to the right if the basic green, and additional does not burn (at us in this case to turn it is impossible).

One of the basic problems – parkings in the big cities. Street signs "R" are accompanied often by comments, to understand which happens difficultly so it is better not to risk (fine regularly). Most easier with paid – always it is possible to have a talk parkovshchikom or the automatic machine. An iron rule – at night and on days off paid street parkings become free! But on places for invalids (are noted by yellow pictogrammes or crosses) it is better not to become in any case. More reliably and most conveniently polzovat many-tier parkings if those are available. Procedure same, as all over the world: on entrance has pressed the button and has received a ticket, has parked on any empty seat, after returning has paid the ticket in cash desk or the automatic machine, the paid ticket has opened a barrier on departure.

At last about refuellings. There is a gasoline in Poland and Czechia is approximately identical – about 1 euro for litre of 95th. On avtobanah is hardly more expensive, than on minor roads. Most cheaply on refuellings at supermarkets. Procedure typically European: approach, insert a pistol into a tank, fill in how much it is necessary, pay in cash desk, having named column number. Into bad gasoline to run difficultly, especially if to use brendovymi refuellings.

To spend the night have solved in Krakow as on an entrance to a city twilight has started to be condensed, and to reconnoiter unknown roads on darkness it would not be desirable. I described the first capital of Poland already repeatedly. I will notice only, that this time have successfully stopped in "Ibis" almost in the centre, and evening have spent in the Old city. Impressions were impaired a little only by group of tourists of Nikolaev, decided to show krakovchanam as it is correctly necessary to have a rest …

Czechia

From Krakow in r-not TSeshina (Cieszyn) it is possible to reach the Czech border straight on minor road, but we have decided to move through Katowice – further, but all time on chetyryohpoloske. As I already marked, this road to Prague to me has seemed to the most preferable. Comfortable mnogorjadnaja the line goes by Ostrava (Ostrava) through Olomouc (Olomouc) directly to avtobana which Brno (Brno) begins in r-not. To Czechia unequivocally it is better than road Polish. But even their first class road services had not time to consult with snow which this day has tumbled down with special force. Only good winter rubber and a full drive gave us before the others odds which we successfully used thanks to presence of a superfluous strip for passing.

Czechs and Poles pass border almost without a stop. Us have asked to drive off aside and minutes ten were checked by our data on the computer. It is possible not to leave the car at all. By the way, to the Czech visa it is necessary a sheet of paper, one polovinku which pograntsy tear off on entrance, and another take away on departure – do not lose! Here, on border, it is possible to change money (a course not the most favourable, but tolerant – 23 crones for $1) and to buy a vignette for journey on avtobanam which is moulded on a windshield (8 euros for 15 days).

Light day allowed to make one stop on small excursion and a dinner. Have decided to call in in Brno – the second capital of Czechia, to look the lock and old quarters. Lock Shpilberg (Spilberk), put in pawn in XIII century, looks very powerful, but without a highlight. All any correct and rectangular. With an exposition of a museum of prison we have gone to casemates, have simply wandered around. And then have gone to the Old city to look churches, churches, the Plague column and the Old town hall in which arch the crocodile is suspended. It, appears, «the Brnensky dragon»! Not in dark centuries, and in educated XIX century someone has brought a stuffed animal of a crocodile to a city and began all to tell, what is it there was a present dragon. And the people were led! Not long thinking, townspeople "spionerili" also adapted for themselves a beautiful Krakow legend about dragon Smoke. Thus the city has got own history about a malicious monster on which smart townspeople have palmed off the stuffed animal of a lamb filled not slaked izvestju. And that, the fool, has eaten, has had a drink waters from small river and has burst. By the way, it not a unique dragon-crocodile in Czechia.

Having had fun and easily having had dinner in one of small restaurants, we with a breeze have come on avtobanu to Prague. To orient in an old part of a city on narrow small streets with an one-way traffic it is uneasy. It was necessary to reel up some circles round the Indrishsky tower while we have found out hotel Hotel Junior ***. The promised parking has appeared a close court yard, attempt to call in in which through narrow arochku has ended with full fiasco and the scratched wing. Hard in the European cities even on "Forestere", let alone the big jeeps. It was necessary to park on the next public parking for an inconceivable payment in 500 crones ($20)! Three stars of hotel have seemed made up. Well, anything, we after all only should spend the night here …

Prague

The capital of Czechia breathes history and is full of sights. On all basic points it is necessary for high-grade excursion a minimum two days. Guidebooks the sea, I will not compete. But kratenky the review I will outline.

So, our hotel near the Indrishsky tower on Senovalnoj the areas (Senovazne Nemesti), from here also we will begin. The tower is a belltower of church St. Indriha XIV century (on-cheshski this name it is said as Jindrzhih). Above there is a restaurant and a viewing platform. On architecture it is typical for Prague: square section, a high spike and four Gothic turrets on corners. The same characteristic kind all most known Prague towers and belltowers, thanks to what have them with what you will not confuse. As the well-known Powder tower of XV century to which we get on street Senovalnoj (Senovazna). Once it was a part of city strengthenings, then protected a royal palace on which place the grandiose Public house with pathos restaurant on the ground floor now rises. A tower consider as one of city cards.

From here begins TSelenta (Celenta) – the foot street which is a part of Royal road from the former palace to the Prague hailstones. At the left there will be a Class theatre and Karolinum – the ancient case of one of the oldest in Europe of HIGH SCHOOLS – Karlov of university (1348). By the souvenir benches which have been filled up bogemskim with glass ($100 for an average vase), we leave to the Staromestsky area (Staromestske Nemesti). The first, on the approach, the multitower Church of Maiden Maria before Tynom (1365-1470) is evident. This name always confused me. At once there is any trite association: «before tynom» - «under a fence». But it is normal, Slavs in the "brotherly" countries always are amused by some local speech turns. As, for example, it is possible to treat the Czech traffic sign «Pozor! Deti!». Russian laugh at us, we laugh at Byelorussians, together we laugh at Bulgarians Has etc. distracted …

The main centre of gravity of tourists on the Staromestsky area – a tower of the Town hall with a city symbol, an astronomical clock "Orloj" on a facade. Time on them to define inconveniently, as well as moon phases, both the number, and a zodiac sign and so forth But 10-15 minutes prior to each equal hour at a tower is going to crowd thirsting to see simple representation – occurrence in a window of figurines 12 apostles and movement of five allegorical figures. Only do not prepare for it show of children – they will be disappointed by wretchedness of representation. And here adults here rejoice it to "simple movements» really as children. On a tower top it is possible to rise on the lift of all for 50 crones. And on small restaurant "Grand Hotel" terrace directly before hours we by old tradition have tried the most expensive coffee in a city (5 euros).

Further on street Karlovoj (Karlova) we leave on coast of Vltava to one more symbol of a city – Karlovomu to the bridge (1357) which begins and comes to an end with characteristic towers. Above the Staromestsky tower the viewing platform also is arranged. Along all bridge 30 figures sacred are established. Main consider a statue St. Yana Nepomutskogo (the muzhik with a feather and asterisks round a head) which zarezaly and have thrown in the river that he has refused to give out to king Vaclav IV secret of a confession of his wife. Here all tourists do a stop, think of desire and touch a bronze plate at the statue basis. I most of all like small streets of island Kampa to the left of the bridge. The classical kind on Stare a place and Karlov the bridge comes off therefrom.

On street Mostetsky by St. Nikolay's Cathedral we rise by the Prague hailstones. "Hailstones" on-cheshski mean "fortress". And Prague is a fortress of fortresses! The residence of the head of the state is brought in the Book of records Ginessa as the greatest in the world. The Gradchansky area – the centre of an ancient site of ancient settlement. On the left the Loritansky small street withdraws to the monastery with the same name and the Cherninsky palace. To the right – a front entrance in a royal castle. We have approached just by 12:00 when under wind band sounds there is a solemn changing of the guard. Unperturbable guard in a national uniform at an input, I think, more hard, than to Russian tell-tales protecting the Kremlin Mausoleum. Here everyone can approach closely, be photographed by a number, writhe a physiognomy or pinch for a nose. To laugh it it is strictly forbidden!

Through internal court yard it is possible to get to the palace, and further – to a cathedral St. Vita (1344). There, in a secret room, speak, treasures of kings of Bohemia are stored. In a temple it is possible to come and admire stained-glass windows and frescos free of charge. And in a vault and on top – for money. Tickets are on sale in cash desk at a front entrance in the lock. Full excursion will manage in 350 crones. And all for 50 it is possible to pass in the most interesting part of a fortress that is called the Gold small street. It is the present city for gnomes! In due time king Rudolf II has lodged the Prague chasers (and on other legend – alchemists, on the third – security guards) is closer to itself and has allowed to be under construction it in the Prague hailstones along a fortification. A small street there very narrow. Here and small houses left Lilliputian. In one of them Frants Kafka searched inspiration though to spend the night preferred all the same in the big house in the Old city.

Having glanced for decency in powerful, but empty tower Daliborka, we go down on steps downwards. The basic part of excursion is ended. It is possible to remain on the Small party further and to rise on a cable car on the Petrshinsky hill to an openwork tower – tiny (60) copies Parisian Ejfelevki, or to return on Karlovomu to the bridge to the Old city. On the left there will be Jewish quarters Jozefova with a unique cemetery near to Staronovoj a synagogue (excursion on synagogues – from 200 to 500 crones). To the right, on quay, we get at first to National theatre, and then to the well-known Dancing house. This masterpiece of neoconstructivism created at the initiative of Vaclav Gavel, is devoted cult Hollywood dancers Dzhindzher and Fredu.

And the greatest peshehodka is in area of the Vatslavsky area topped with a magnificent building of the National museum and an equestrian statue of St. Vaclav. This most popular place for shopping and centre of the Prague small restaurants and beer, most interesting of which hide in lateral small streets. Some offer svezhesvarennoe beer, others can brag only of the present Czech cuisine: veprevo a knee (zharennaja a pork leg), pechena rolling (zharennaja a duck), knedliks (slices of the potato bread prepared on pair with shpigom), polyovki (various soups), shtrudeli for a dessert. From a hard liquor to the most well-known is karlovarskaja "Beherovka", thought up in 1807 as gastric means, but become as a result a national drink. And I still very much recommended to pay attention on "Fernet the Drain" - easier and soft, but very fragrant dizhestiv. Well and beer everywhere and in a considerable quantity – we after all in beer capital of the Eastern Europe! Disorder of the prices for beer on a city very big – from 25 to 100 crones for a glass. All depends on an institution. Here the short review of the visited vegetable marrows with ethnic cuisine which are especially popular in tourists:

• «The brewer at Fleku» (Kremencova 11) – 190 crones for the basic dish. The Museum-brewery with 500-year-old history in ancient solodovni. Museum visiting can be combined with a supper.
• «Staromestsky restaurant» (Staromestske nam. 19), 150 crones for the basic dish. TSentrovoe an arrangement, an ancient interior, plzenskoe beer, huge portions, the personnel speaks Russian.
• «The Novomestsky brewer» (Vodickova 20) – 200 crones for the basic dish. Rather new institution where cook own beer on an ancient compounding. The brewing equipment in an interior.
• «The beer house» (Lipova 15) – 200 crones for the big portion. Beer of own manufacture of set of grades (tastings are spent), kitchen a little presnovata, the Russian-speaking personnel.
• «Beer factory» (Jachymova 4) – 120 crones for the basic dish. Firm beer "Budvajzer", a modern stylish interior, is not enough tourists, cheaply.

In first four superpopular institutions in the evenings there is a full notice, there are turns making a din in Russian. In advance little tables to reserve it is impossible. That garantirovanno to get without expectation, it is necessary to come by 18:00.

In such vegetable marrows we were repeatedly crossed with the colleagues-autotravellers, which profits to Prague in parallel with us at once two "Foresterami". Before it were casually wrote off on the Internet and it has appeared, that our trips almost coincide on time and routes. And went, informing SMSами each other about a condition of roads. And already on a place have found out, that with some even are in absentia familiar. In the company time to spend much more cheerfully!

When over a city the darkness is condensed, the area of the Vatslavsky area becomes not so cosy. On friendly and tourist in the afternoon to street Na Mustku there are small groups of dark persons of the African nationality. Appearance of some maidens missing on corners does not leave doubts in their trade. Fires of institutions from show for adults are lighted. With the informative purpose necessarily it is necessary to visit here «the Museum of sex cars» (Melantichova 18) – 250 crones for an input. The smart devices presented to expositions give bright representation about inventive as regards reception of pleasures from a life our ancestors were what. At the same time, local a strip-show do not represent anything especial – usual sdiranie money for extremely expensive drinks. There continuous Russian, only classical "new" … too sit

The rest

One day we have devoted to a trip in Karlshtejn (Karlstejn) – the most impressing Czech lock, that in 35 km to the southwest from Prague (excursion – 150 crones). A place very picturesque. The stronghold towers among mountains over small medieval small town (in the centre there is a big parking, upward kilometre it is necessary to reach on foot or on the carrier). The lock in 1348 by Charles IV is based. Long time remained a treasury of relics of a royal court yard. The first thought which arises at its visiting in the winter as all of them heated it!? A cold in a mansion the extreme! It is the most interesting to visit a treasury. There to be stored a copy of a crown of the Czech emperors (in XIV century Prague was actual capital of Sacred Roman empire!) Decorated with huge nuggets, and some original subjects of a life of emperor Charles IV. Among them – a head of a crocodile, one more unfortunate reptile as which Czechs considered as a dragon. On a legend, it is a head of that dragon which was victoriously won by St. George Pobedonosets. As now I imagine this fight of the Christian hero with a crocodile …

On a return way have visited Neogothic lock Sihrov (Syhrov), belonging to the French sort Roganov (75 crones for visiting, 150 – with Russian excursion). It is very interesting by partly saved interiors and a rich collection of furniture, life subjects, meetings of glass, porcelain and painting. It is very easy to imagine a life of princes which bathed in luxury, but not in a bath – to wash it was accepted only persons and feet. The question on a central heating did not leave me here again, after all fireplaces and ovens have been provided far not in each of huge premises. Some apartments and now continue to restore. In one of wings the restaurant where we with pleasure had a bite in the extensive company of the Ukrainian tourists who have arrived at once by three buses is arranged.

It would not be desirable to hurry home. On road have glanced in some Polish cities. In Vrotslave and Lublin we already happened, but have decided to update impressions, especially as regards local pivnits. In Vrotslave (Wroclaw) it is necessary to descend in «Spiz» (Ratusz Rynek 9) in a cellar under the Town hall where cook original beer "Spizh". In the huge smoked beer hall a place to find happens difficultly enough, but is also a restaurant hall with excellent staropolskoj kitchen! Firm dishes: beer soup, zrazas "spizhove", smoked edges in juicy sauce, white sausage in beer sauce, a potato in a uniform with sauce from cheese and garlic (78 zl. For a dish for two). And in Lublin (Lublin) now I can recommend restaurant-pub «Za drzwiami» (ul. Rynek 7). A usual half-litre glass of beer here name "very small", litre – simply "small", and normal is two-litre! By itself, the snack for rather moderate money has not pumped up also.

Small town Zamost (Zamosc) nearby to the Ukrainian border which has appeared the last on our route has very much liked. It is remarkable the Market area with a 50-metre town hall and infinite arcades of picturesque Renaissance small houses on perimetre. There are still churches, an arsenal, bastions and other rests of city strengthenings, but they are prosy enough. Should be, in the summer the main area is filled with terraces of cafe and small restaurants. And in the winter before a town hall, near to a fur-tree, the skating rink is arranged. In the centre the couple of decent hotels from which it is allocated «Senator» *** (Rynek Solny 4 is noticed; tel. (+48 84) 638-76-10). Here in these places Russian speech uslishish it is not frequent. More shortly, it will be possible to plan in the summer somehow a short trip Lublin-Zamost and vicinities. It is much closer and easier on road, than already podnadoevshy Krakow.

To the house was already nearby, but the end of "light time of days» therefore have for a change decided to stay the night in Lutsk approached. Lock Ljubarta and other sights have appeared on the place. Central hotel "Ukraine" (street Slovak, 2; bodies: (0332) 78-81-18) it is restored, but fresh European-quality repair has not added to it a cosiness. Three hundred griven the huge and empty junior suite at all does not cost, though weak similarity of European "buffet" is applied on it and for a breakfast. It is better to spend the night not in the centre, but in good private minihotels.

The next winter trip has confirmed some simple conclusions. To go in the winter always it is heavy because of difficult road conditions and short light day. Thus, it is necessary to limit itself in sights, to plan more frequent spending the night and to think, than to occupy «long winter evenings». To go by the car «it is simple to Prague» in the winter of sense is not present. But it is possible to plan enduring, though also small on tour distance on the East Europe cities if plans include visiting of a maximum of various objects on a route. At us it has turned out only 3000 km for 10 days. Result not impressing, but travel has turned out quiet and without superfluous naprjagov. The present rest on wheels!