Autoround across Transylvania: on a visit at Drakuly
GladiolusOctober, 2003
Prologue
When we approached on pass Tihutsu, sticky sleet has gone. It moulded in a windshield, covered roadsides and instantly thawed on asphalt, threatening with drifts on an abrupt streamer of road. Beams of headlights snatched out gloomy silhouettes of century fur-trees from darkness, from time to time over road the bared rocks hung, and instead of a parapet along roadsides there was an ominous paling. Passers came across all less often, and passing for a long time it was not visible any more. I have suddenly paid attention, that for a long time did not notice any traffic signs. «And we on that road go?», - Xenia has cautiously asked. « In my opinion, road here one », - I have uncertainly answered. Few times to us there were the dark villages which have been not specified on a map. Somewhere aside from a gloom the wooden cross with orthodox"small house"has acted. We came nearer To den Drakuly in oppressive atmosphere, so successfully recreated in due time ingenious Bremom the Stoker. It seemed, still slightly, and because of turn the four black, carrying the carriage with the black driver will seem. And here before us index Piatra Fintinele. Hardly slightly illuminated lock Drakuly – last point of our route above was seen. Here we were waited by a meeting with that for whom we searched for all these five days …Idea
To go in the middle of autumn on searches Drakuly us spodvigli the friends inspired by our colourful stories about Romania which we have fleetingly visited this summer in transit, moving from Ukraine through Hungary to Bulgaria on gold beaches for a long time chosen by us Sozopolja. To hurry has forced severe consequences of expansion of the European Union – for Ukrainians visa-free visiting of Romania since summer of 2004 will be already impossible. As to all of us the last year's trip made at this particular time year across the Western Ukraine was memorable, the best part from which was made by fantastic impressions of beauty of autumn Carpathians. I Mitsubishi Carisma, sustained already some long autotravel, was in full alertness. Recent own experience of conquest of the Romanian roads has been added by a thorough selection of materials in key places of a forthcoming route which managed to be dug out on the Internet: Suceava, Brashov, Sinai, Kluzh-Napoka, Bystritsa, Baia-Mare. The initial route was that, but have decided rigidly it not to adhere, improvise on a course so hotels did not reserve in advance. From Ukraine were going to to drive through Chernovtsy, and to leave through Mukachevo in Zakarpate. In advance were reserved by maps and plans of cities which should be visited. «The green map» and a voluntary HELMET for the Eastern Europe, and also medstrahovki have been bought obligatory. Here, actually, and all. Have left on Monday morning, at 8:00. Should return were Sunday afternoon.The way beginning
Road from Kiev to Chernovtsy (through Zhitomir, Vinnitsa and Khmelnitskiy) already habitual. Almost "avtoban" to Zhitomir. On district under Korostyshevym zarulivaem to have a bite and drink coffee in decent in appearance kafeshku, that at refuelling "UkrTatNafta". In a breakfast to us refuse supposedly in 9 mornings at them still a plate cold. But offer fried eggs. «Eggs though at you warm?» - we scoff. :) In front of Zhitomir as usually, have missed congress on district so it was necessary to go through the centre. Indexes obligingly prompt a direction to Vinnitsa (the first should be passed – it for lorries). The following stop on coffee and other affairs already in a favourite place passing this road tranzitnikov Medzhibozhe. It is necessary to notice, that the place it is good for a halt only during a warm time of year when picturesque summer platforms work. Kitchen there still presnovataja, but qualitative and cheap. To have dinner we solve further, in Kamenets-Podolsk about which from last year there were very pleasant impressions. All hearings about the deteriorated kitchen at small restaurant «Під bramoju», that on entrance to a fortress, have appeared false! Have tried "that" sharp, as fire, hashlamy, chinahi and other delights of the present Armenian cuisine. Eh, who is good that not at the wheel! They had possibility to fill in thirst in the kind portion of beer. :) Itself Kamenets has very much impressed, as well as last time. A perfect kind on a fortress under the autumn sky with low ink clouds. Photos have turned out excellent! By 5 o'clock have reached Chernovtsy, at once having attended to a lodging for the night problem. Have first of all gone to reconnoiter, that represents a tourist complex "Knaus" (street Golovna, 26а; bodies. A/fax: (0372) 54-58-02, ph. 2-98-02), that in the centre. It has appeared, that there can offer only two-tryohmestnye apartments for 350 grn., as a matter of fact – usual two-room apartment with European-quality repair that to us, four, it was small. But have found out there very nice German small restaurant where have decided to glance later. Fashionable «Luxe-Hotel» ***** (street on June, 28th, 18; bodies: (03722) 2-33-15, (0372) 585-204) for $60 from one or on $20 from 4 persons have decided not to check at all. Have gone at once to hotel "Черемош" *** (street Komarova, 13а; bodies: (03722) 4-75-18, 4-75-00) which is located on the bank of picturesque lake. Good numbers on 134 grn. There, unfortunately, available it has not appeared (any delegation) so it was necessary to be content usual dablrumami for 70 grn has lodged. Without repair, but with hot water round the clock. But have saved. :) A supervised parking – 15 grn.
Household problems are settled, we go on short excursion on a city. The taxi carries us on Kotsjubinsky, 2 where the Chernovitsky University – the main sight of a city is located. Freely we enter on territory of the former residence of the metropolitan of Bukovina created in 1882 under the guidance of Czech architect Yozefa Central boards. In the light of the coming sun the temple in the Byzantian style, and opposite to it – the house for visitors with a high many-tier tower with hours, a cosy internal court yard is examined entered in the centre of the seminar case. Cases are opened, it is possible to come and like university atmosphere of an ancient complex. On the contrary – park with a pond. In front of the main case – a bust most YOzefa Central boards. The further pedestrian excursion by the central part shestisotletnego cities passes already in a dark way. Despite poor illumination, the Town hall on the Central area in sight gets and some churches – Chernovtsy are well-known for peaceful co-existence of set of cultures and religions, each of which is presented at least by one cult construction. It is a pity, light day is already too short.
To have supper we go in popular in tourists a bar-korchmu "Wheel" (O.Kobyljanskoj's street, 6), located in a cosy Chernovitsky court yard. An interior in national style rather poor, but picturesque, kitchen decent, the personnel affable. A problem only with a bar – beer pour exclusively "Obolon", the choice of wines is not better. Obviously, usual clients prefer vodka. :) The sincere waitress on a question on good drinks ingenuously sends in shop opposite. On beer after a supper it decided to go in "Knaus" – the German name promises a good choice of a traditional burgher drink. To choose there really is from what though casting is not present in general. Have slightly disappointed also the German sausages which have appeared almost by usual sausages. But general impressions rather positive. The first day of travel has come to an end.
Along Carpathians
Easy breakfast (never reserve in "CHeremoshe" an omelette!), a full tank of 98th (satisfactory) on "Lukoil", that in the street Main towards Suceava, in the same place a sink while passengers drink coffee there and then in cafe, and in a way! On border at 10:40 – calm and good fortune. The Ukrainian party on «a green corridor» it is passable for 10 minutes, any questions. After so-called disinfection ($8) to the Romanian terminal we – the third in turn. And here a problem. As it has appeared, with the computer. Costs of a century of information technologies – hackers have cracked a database in Bucharest and 2 hours have kept waiting us at customs while the local police tried to solve somehow a passport problem antiquated methods. It is good, that in a customs building there is a small cafe and an exchanger (a course 31 000 pour for dollar – not so favourable, in the big cities – 33 000 and even above). « Djutifri »itself at all does not justify – cigarettes and the alcohol is more expensive, than in the Kiev supermarkets … But here passports and the log"are punched", pogranets was convinced, that we with itself have a sufficient sum of money (it is necessary to have $100 per day), ecological gathering ($13) and we in Romania is paid.I am switched to a "foreign" mode of driving – all strictly by rules, excess of speed sometimes I afford no more than on 10 km/h. It is quite enough indexes, to lose the way difficult. Road rather equal, with an accurate marking, but narrow, practically without roadsides. Traditional at us lesoposadok along lines is not present in general, «on need» it is necessary to call in in cafe and on refuellings. :) On the Romanian roads carts reign, at intensive movement creating considerable problems. Especially at night when, happens, only at the last minute you understand, that the dancing dim spark ahead is a small lamp, which "majakuet" to you the driver rolling astride a haystack. And happens, as without small lamps …
The first point – Suceava (Suceava), the former capital of Moldova. Freely we park in the centre, we leave to look round and at once we face a funeral procession. On a cemetery Romanians go necessarily on foot and directly through city centre, all validly give them road. Have met one more procession which was accompanied by loud sounds karpatskih trembit later. Small town ordinary-looking enough. The centre is built up by modern low buildings in the spirit of a socialist realism, from sights it is possible to examine sacred Dmitry's church (St. Dumitriu) in the centre and ruins of a fortress-throne Moldavian voevod on a hill hardly aside. To be late here we are not going to, but it is necessary to be supported. Not troubling themselves searches, we come into the cosy and gloomy, in an original way issued bar "Walked" (Chagall), that in a gate around a foot zone where it is possible to drink beer and to eat a good pizza. Here, also as well as everywhere, we communicate in English which understand in the places popular in tourists more often.
But, before to go further towards Brashov, we deviate kilometres on 30 on the West, in area of the Romanian Bukovina where among low picturesque mountains surprising painted monasteries are located. All of them, basically, same so the most known is chosen – monastery Voronets (1488), being under UNESCO protection (an input – 40 000 lei, a photo/video – 100 000 lei). A show really amazing. Simple, in general, architecture a temple which walls are completely painted by frescos not only inside, but also outside. And, paints, after the half-millenia, still bright and fresh. Anywhere in the world such is not present more!
Further our way lays on the south, along Carpathians. On road – set of the tidy villages differing on style and architecture depending on region. We overtake a Gipsy camp on tilt carts. More close to Brashov mountains begin, it is necessary to get over through pass, but to me not to get used any more to a night streamer. To capital of Transylvania it is driven in the beginning of 11th evening. Hotels in a city not cheap. To lodge I counted in inexpensive hotel "Postavarul" (Str. Politehnicii, 2; tel: 0040-268-144330). Bribed an arrangement in the centre and very moderate price - $20. However, suitable numbers available it has not appeared, and conditions have seemed too the modest. For those who is not so constrained in means, it is possible to recommend «Capitol» *** (Eroilor Blvd, 19; phone: 0040-268-144330) for €60/80. We, having touched some variants, have stopped on checked up hotel "Helis" *** (Str. Memorandului, 29; tel: 0040-268-410223), warmly accepting us during a summer trip. €50 for dablrum with a bathroom or €35 with conveniences on a floor. All is pure and accurate. The easy breakfast enters into cost. The car have suggested to leave at an input, assuring, what is it safely. Acquaintance to a city to begin already late, but it decided to get out in the centre for a supper. After 23:00 the majority of institutions are closed, bars work only. However in the street the night small restaurant «New York» is possible to find Republics, the dense supper in which finishes this difficult day.
Round Brashov
Knowingly this city located at bottom of mountain Tympa, name «the Romanian Salzburg». On Gothic quarters of Brashov it is possible to walk infinitely. The centre of gravity of tourists (and us including) – the central area with the Town hall from which the foot street of Republic (Str begins. Republicii) with set of small restaurants and boutiques, and in other party a hand a tax to the well-known vast object of Black Church (1476) with the greatest body in Europe. It has found the characteristic colour after the big fire – outside to restore it did not become. Inside, as well as it is necessary at Catholics, severity and asceticism, there is a small historical exposition. Hardly further, along city walls, it is possible to leave to brashovskoj citadels with a city museum. Continuing to move in the same direction, we leave to a very tall spike of Gothic church of Sacred Nikolay (XV century) . Nearby there is a building of the first Romanian school with a museum inside. Nearby – city gate (Poarta Schei). The city from different directions is surrounded by mountains on which in several places towers and the bastions are seen, one of them can be visited on road on Pojanu-Brashov. And on the highest point of mountain dominating over a city to restaurant "Panoramic" located there the rope-way conducts, unfortunately, it again did not work. For a dinner or simply rest in a city it is possible to choose any of uncountable points in the historical centre. And to us the cosy cafe issued in musical style “Festival ’ 39” in the street Mureshenilor, devoted to large jazz festival which has taken place in a city in 1939 was especially grew fond.
Accompanied by an easy autumn rain we go through Ryzhnov to one of the main sights of these places – located in 30 kilometres on the southwest to ancient castle Bran (Castelul Bran) which officially is considered "residence" of count Drakuly. The person of the legendariest blood-sucker should pay special attention. It is considered to be, that a prototype of the protagonist of novel Brema of the Stoker "Vampire" is prince Vlad Tsepesh correcting in Walachia in XV century and differing extreme cruelty. Actually the Stoker at all did not know this name when, having inspired by stories about transilvanskoj evil spirits, began to look for the suitable hero for the new novel. A prototype he has chosen valahskogo voevodu Vlad Drakulu, father Tsepesha who has become famous for bravery in battles with Turks, for what has been accepted in an award of the Dragon. The sonorous name Drakula meaning in Romanian "dragon" or "devil" so it was pleasant to the Stoker. And here fans of the novel have decided, that noble voevoda for a role of the vampire does not approach, therefore began to consider as present Drakuloj of his son Tsepesha nicknamed so for predilection to sazhaniju of people on kol. About its cruelty, both to enemies, and to the citizens, across Romania the set of legends (once it has planted on kol more than 20 thousand inhabitants of one rebellious city) really goes. But here a trustworthy information about places of its stay it is small. Why as lock Drakuly-Tsepesha began to consider Bran, anybody plainly does not know. Now historians have established, that TSepesh really «could happen there» when besieged Brashov. But tourists so like this gloomy construction with chaotic labyrinths and secret passages, that travel agencies bring it in the routes as lock Drakuly. Directly under it the richest is located, probably, drakulskoj by symbolics a souvenir market in Romania. The lock abounds with the numerous confused transitions, halls and graceful balconies. There the exposition of furniture, the weapon and an armour is presented. A special exhibit – a skin of the bear killed personally by dictator Chaushesku. An input in a museum – 70 000 lei., photographing – 60 000.
On a return way zarulivaem in a fortress, that in settlement Ryshnov (Catetea Risnov). Horrible, partially soil, the road conducts upwards, almost under 45 °. In the end – the small paid parking, which mistress words does not understand in one language, except the Romanian. A huge fortress in which townsmen hid in due time from the local feudal lords, very interesting, it gradually restore. Inside there are museums of two adjacent trades – doctoring and tortures. :) In a court yard ancient carts and tilt carts are collected. The surprising wooden crucifixion on a wall of one of houses. At mountain top there is a viewing platform from which the mad kind on all vicinities opens, including toy small town from such height below. It is possible to sit on a terrace of cosy cafe in the summer.
And we move further, through predial on Sinai. It is felt, that we are in the country of mounting skiing resorts – they everywhere. Actually, that is also Sinai. The small town is located in a small valley, in an environment of Southern Carpathians. There are lifts, set of hotels, restaurants and other attributes tourist mekki. If sometime I have a desire during winter holiday to drive on skis, I will go here. After all, except mountains, here there is still a set interesnostej: palaces Pelesh and Pelishor, the Sinai monastery with a collection of icons, a huge cross at top of one of mountains in vicinities.
First of all, naturally, we are going to to find a haven, but before it it decided to have a bite. On eyes the tourist complex «Irish House» (Bd comes across. Carol I, 14; + (40-244)-310060, 310033;) The restaurant has liked at once a wooden interior, the kitchen also has not pumped up. Our girls have left for some minutes, and, having returned, have informed, that in a complex there is very good hotel for $30. It will be a safety variant, it would be desirable to choose the best as is from what – hotels in a city the sea. Outwardly has very much impressed «Palace» ***/**** (Octavian Goga, 4; tel: 244-312051), but the prices began from $50, that it seemed to us mnogovato. Is also its budgetary ($35) a variant «Caraiman» ** (Bd. Carol I, 4. tel: +4044-312051, 310625), that on entrance to a city, near to station. On Soviet times it, obviously, was considered very solid, but, unfortunately, since those times there has changed nothing: neither conditions, nor service. Precisely same impression from «Paltinis Hotel» ** (Bd. Carol I, 67 tel: +4044-314652, 314653), but there owners managed to save a cosiness at palace magnificence of an old building. Here it would be desirable to remain, but all dablrumy ($25) have been occupied or reserved. From budgetary variants has very much liked «Intim» * (Furnica 1; tel: +4044-311754), located in an ancient building on the area it is direct opposite to the Sinai monastery. $18 cost a double room without a bathroom, $27 – apartments with all conveniences and a kind on a monastery. Well, I think, to wake up under a peal … But conditions too ascetic, we would like something more decently. More shortly, have returned in «Irish House» where have removed two numbers on 1 050 000 lei (about $30). Very much I recommend – warm, pure, cosy, in the centre and it is literally under the lift.
Continuing a theme of hotels Sinais, I will notice, that we have found the best variant later, is direct on the approach to royal palace Pelesh, near residence of "a small court yard» Pelishor, in a quarter of the former private residences of the Romanian nobility close to them. People are able to dispose efficiently of the architectural heritage. Now in ancient country houses in the Austrian style the complex of hotels Furnica-Economat (Str settles down. Pelesului, 2; tel: 044-310353) where there are variants for all tastes and a purse, from one to three stars. Here the short list of some of them with the prices in dollars for standard dablrum, depending on a season (last figure – New Year's tariffs from 21.12 till, the second – summer, from 01.07 till, the first – all rest of the time):
Economat *** 45/55/75
Cazare ** 40/50/65
Furnica ** 40/50/65
Vila Poiana Pelesului ** 30/40/55
Vila Floare de Colt* 30/40/55
There and then there are some restaurants and bars, and hardly above uphill – excellent "the Tavern to the Serb" in national style. It is a pity, that in the first day we here have not reached, precisely here and remained. Have come across this complex in the morning when have come to examine summer residence of the Romanian kings.
Palace Pelesh (Peles) it is simple light miracle on the unearthly beauty. Has been constructed in 1875 by king Charles I in style of German revival. I not undertake at all describe its magnificence, especially internal. For visiting the part of the second floor is opened only, but also that show, as they say, «breaks a roof». An interior, furniture, utensils – all was completely saved since times of kings. Excursions spend on Romanian or English, but we simply wandered, turning a deaf ear to speech of the guide, examining internal furniture and estimating, what enormous human work and what extreme sum of money it was necessary to create this miracle. It is impossible to photograph inside, therefore with the camera came off in a picturesque court yard with park, monuments and set of sculptures. Green lawns against majestic Carpathians covered with the first snow which has dropped out just this night …
The car all this time remained on an entrance to a palace that conducts from a monastery. Here have faced the first and unique for all trip "Gipsy divorce". When were going to to drive off, in a window the unshaven muzhik, pahnuv on us by garlic and peregarom was knocked. In broken English has explained, that we owe to it of money for a parking – 100 000 (!) pour. Remembering councils of predecessors, the check has demanded from it. That has pretended, that has not understood. «The check!», - I have persistently repeated. "Gipsy" was restive. "Good-bye", - we have told in Russian and, having scattered gravel from under wheels, have left.
Ahead one of the most picturesque pieces of a way – from Brashov to Sigishoary laid. Almost in each settlement is either an ancient church, or a town hall, or the lock. As, for example, in settlement Rupeja (Rupea) near to which, on a hill, from road ominous ruins of a fortress are well looked through. And among medieval tile roofs – the huge satellite aerial. :) And it is direct on entrance in Sigishoaru have noticed a cathedral on which roof figures "1265 (!)" are laid out.
On traces Drakuly
So, at us the place where precisely happened Drakula appears following point. Moreover, he there was born. It Sigishoara – small medieval small town in the mountains, "frozen" in time. Here all how was many centuries back: fortifications, a tower with hours, a town hall, one-two-storeyed houses in which and now there live people. It is considered a unique place in Europe, saved all delights of a medieval life – one of few manned fortresses. First of all we go for a dinner to house Drakuly which is transformed into restaurant popular in tourists «Casa Vlad Dracul» (Str. Cositorarilor, 5; +040-265-771596). « Kasa »"house"in Romanian means. We have sat down, quite possibly, in the former bedroom where have conceived the future blood-sucker. :) The menu corresponding: chorba (soup)"Drakula", meat"Drakula", a cocktail"Drakula". All bloody colour, but is very tasty. Only one of us has managed to reserve"tartar"– to it have brought a plate of crude forcemeat with spices and an egg yolk. :) The thin, high waiter with an eagle profile, black hair and the sad eyes, similar to the gatekeeper from the house with reductions, a passionless voice has asked:« the Sir knows, how it is? ». It has appeared, it was what is it edible and even it is tasty. This time visiting of house Drakuly has made on us only positive impressions, is possible because the season has already come to an end, and around there were very few tourists. We can not give up to themselves in pleasure to stay the night in this city, therefore a sightseeing tour we combine with habitation search.In the centre of eyes pleases smart, bright hotel "Sigisoara" *** (Str. Scolii, 4-6; tel: +40-265-771000, 777788). Inside it appears not less cosy and picturesque, the price €40 for a double room does not frighten us, but the girl on retsepshene sadly swings a head – empty seats are not present. It is a pity, it is very a pity, here it was pleasant to us … Nearby – the most expensive hotel in a city «Casa cu Cerb» (Str. Scolii, 1; tel: +40-265-774625, 777349) where Prince Charles to what the photo with its autograph on an input testifies stopped. Atmosphere, the price – €50 does not satisfy slightly snobskaja. In an old part also full private boards, motels and hostelov with rather democratic prices. For example, Casa Legenda (Str. Bastionului, 8; tel: +40-744-632775). Double rooms within $10-20. However, their level does not suit us. Having got tired of searches, we go to the known address from colleagues – to hotel "REX" ** (Dumbravei nr. 18; tel: +40-265-777615, 777431;). Not in the centre, but all at high level and all on $30 for dablrum.
To drink beer towards evening it would be desirable at very atmospheric basement restaurant so hotel "Sigisoara" which has liked us. On retsepshene for the sake of interest we ask again the girl, whether there are in hotel free numbers. She joyfully nods a head! Just after we from here have left, someone has cancelled bron! Abydna, we already in "Rekse" … :( Evening in Sigishoare was tightened, we wandered on a city, looked in different vegetable marrows, and by 24:00 have approached to a tower with hours. At this particular time 7 times a week under a dial vary figures sacred, the truth, in darkness to make out this process with some difficulty. The next day begins With excursion to a tower with hours (Turnul cu ceas). There it is possible to visit a museum of history of a city, but the main thing – the mechanism of hours which has been started in 1648 and since then never was under repair! It can be made out from the different parties. It is natural, especially interesting to observe of fight of a chiming clock. The tower is opened from 9:00 till.
On the long wooden gallery similar to the tunnel (earlier it totaled 300 steps, now remains only 175), we rise on mountain, to the big cathedral (Biserica di Deal). On a legend, in him the hand ancient transilvanskogo the sinner is stored mumifitsirovannaja. This hand was used, ostensibly, by local witches for the sorcery and black masses. To check up it is not possible – doors it are closed. Downwards we go down through an ancient cemetery where, at desire, it is possible to find tombs which 700 years! A serf part of a city small, it can be bypassed for pair hours. One of the central places occupies Vlad Tsepesha's bust.
Before us a hard choice of a direction of the further route. Initially planned to visit Bystritsu, Kluzh-Napoku and Baia-Mare, having driven in Ukraine in area Mukacheva. Today Friday. The rigid limit of time allows to spend in Romania only one night near border, the following spending the night should be in Ukraine and as it is possible more close to Kiev that Sunday afternoon friends could get on job. We decide to change cardinally plans – through Kluzh-Napoku to get in Bystritsu, to stay the night on pass Tihutsu, and to come back to Ukraine again through Chernovtsy. So, anyway, it will be possible to cross Carpathians on good Romanian roads. We are filled in with 95th gasoline (Fara Plumpum) on firm Romanian refuelling Petrom (24 700 pour for litre). Gasoline excellent.
In Kluzh-Napoke suddenly we get to a stopper. A city with very intensive movement. I suddenly felt in Kiev. mnogorjadnoe movement, but a toffee everywhere, at each crossroads costs the traffic controller. On signs we go to the centre, but to park there is no place – all paid parkings are occupied. I turn off in lateral streets, and after 20 minutes of maneuvering it is possible to take a place on sidewalk where the parking is not forbidden. We go on the pedestrian walk.
The former capital of Transylvania lives the life, it is very fussy and at all does not welcome tourists. Specially to go there I do not recommend. But already if you "have got", I advise to visit the central area of Association (Plata Unirii) on which Sacred Michael cathedral (1350) towers In Gothic style also there is Mateja Corvin's equestrian statue, the Hungarian king and the Austrian emperor. On area perimetre numerous buildings XVI—XIX centuries, huge number of little shops and restaurants, and also booths where it is possible to buy maps and atlases of cities of Transylvania are located. The sea of people which hurry on narrow sidewalks on the affairs. We have a seat on a short respite in one of cafe, we examine a map. On it the mountain Zamkovaja appears, the way to which should lay along the street Ferdinand on the bridge through the river. We go in this direction. The river appears a dirty ditch, to bottom zamkovoj mountains we approach under a torrential rain. The desire to visit the main sight of a city at all vanishes. Run we come back to the car.
Along toward evening we drive in Bystritsu – mekku admirers of novel Brema of the Stoker. Adventures of the protagonist made a noise stokerovskogo products – Englishman Dzhonatana Harkera from here begin. The historical city centre is built up by buildings XV-XVI of centuries. In the centre the Greco-catholic cathedral towers. In two quarters from it the well-known hotel «Gold crown» is located. Earlier it was usual Romanian rajonaja the hotel, but during Soviet times local authorities have decided, that "led" on Drakule the western tourists have the right to visit "historical" places, and have renamed unique for that time in a city hotel in «Corona De Aur» (Piata Petru Rares, 4; tel: 004-0263-232470; www.coronadeaur.bn.ro). Nearby there is a doll small house where ostensibly and spent the night itself stokerovsky Harker – now there fashionable restaurant. Night in a hotel double room will manage from $40 to $50, depending on a season. Time already later so decided to continue travel, hoping to have supper directly on a visit at Drakuly, on pass Tihutsu.
On a visit at the vampire
The den of the most well-known blood-sucker of all times has met us fat, sleet. Settlement Piatra Fintinele (Piatra Fintinele) is in 50 kilometres on the east from Bystritsy, on a way to Kampulungu, at a crossroads of roads of Moldova and Transylvania. This place has most of all approached under description Brama of the Stoker which, having stuck with a finger in a map, has decided to place in due time lock Drakuly in this part of the Romanian Carpathians. And in 1983, from blessing CHaushesku, to delight of admirers of creativity of the Stoker here have erected hotel «Hotel Castel Dracula» *** (Piatra Fintinele, tel: +40-63-266841, 265192), sustained in zamkovom style. Dablrum here costs 1.960.000 lei, that $60 or €54 are equal. Here we have met for the first time an inscription in Russian – "Input". :) « Sovetskost »hotel it is felt in everything, beginning from bathrooms and finishing restaurant, however, it is necessary to give due, the general style is sustained carefully enough. Bed-clothes and ware with arms Drakuly, furniture« under olden time », and that there are« recommendations to lodgers »how to behave at a meeting with evil spirits … :) This evening will for a long time be remembered to us as gluttony time. Being guided by the illustrated menu, at local restaurant we reserved everything that was wished by soul: meat chorby, michi, spetsialitety, the including baked pork feet, indjushachi gammons and many other things … the Waiter brought all new and new national dishes with a scoffing grin – to eat all it it was impossible. The white wine grown fond to us «Muscat Otonell» of the stamp "Murfatlar" was replaced by traditional Romanian vodka "tsujka". We came off under the full program: have played in "snowballs" on a balcony, then have gone to be photographed against the ominous lock and in an interior. Evening has gone right on glory. Behind a window the frosty wind howled, dark fur-trees over breakage were seen.
And in the morning for 10 000 pour from the person we have visited the main local attraction – room Drakuly (Dracula Room) where, at last, have met the count in person. Here the dream of all trip – poorat in the pleasure also has come true. :) However, to make out in detail the vampire it was not possible, it was darkish, but to shout stood to all Carpathians. :) To leave hotel without it show it would be simply illogical. Morning of a vicinity of the lock looked already at all so ominously. Moreover – it is rather affable. Is available, naturally, souvenir bazarchik. For active winter rest the lift is provided. But already it is time to us to come back.
Home!
We completely satisfied with travel came back to Suceava. Passing magnificence of Carpathians we are not kept from delight and we stop pofotografirovtsja. In Suceava we do a short stop for a dinner in the same "SHagale" and small shopping (on Saturday the majority of shops does not work). Zatarennye under an outset souvenirs and purchases quickly we go to border.The boundary city of Siret have reached to 7 o'clock in the evening. Just with 7 to 8 at customs peresmenka so hour we face to the lowered barrier the first in turn. Again it is necessary to pay $13 ekosbora, further standard procedure of passport control and customs inspection – all quickly and correctly. On the Ukrainian half and that is easier. On a question of the customs officer: «That carry?», fairly I answer: «Wine and palenku», finding from its party the uttermost understanding. :) In total for transition it is spent less than one and a half hours with the account of hour of expectation of the end peresmenki.
Refuelling on the multinational corporation, and the Native land meets us the gloomy darkness broken by road and almost full absence of a marking. We at home! We will spend the night in :) Kamentse. We decide to check up rather new hotel "Arnica" (street Cathedral, 4; bodies: (03849) 31817), that on 8th (repaired) floor of sovok hotel "Смотрич". Standard numbers (80 gn.) Good, round the clock there is a hot water and heating, but as the next floors are not heated, all the same coldly. There is lux in style "empire style" for 200. Buffet where it is possible to have breakfast, it is direct in a hall. Later, in search of a place for a supper, have visited hotel "Filvarki-centre" *** on street Lesi of the Ukrainian. Really, very good hotel in an old building, numbers – from $10 to $40. Local say, that «the best people» stop here. A unique lack – it is far not tsentrovoe an arrangement. There is it on city suburb – if to drive from Chernovtsy behind the bridge through Smotrich at once on the left. After all "filvarki" is an agricultural suburb where landowner earthen plots earlier settled down. :) But, with the account of cheapness of local taxi, this problem is not too actual.
And here to have supper after eleven evenings in a city it is problematic. «Під bramoju» it is closed at 23:00. Have travelled all over half-cities, yet have not understood, that a unique variant – in the Town hall where syrovato, zathlo (a premise forbid to heat) and it is not so tasty, but it is cheap. :) After several days of the sated and exhausting travel it is filled up as killed, early to rise next day it is not possible. And friends need to be by 17:00 at job. It is necessary to set up a record of speed – having left in 12 of Kamentsa, with one stop on coffee in Berdichev, to 5 evenings we already in Kiev. I will not undertake any more never repeat this record so to "fly" on the Ukrainian roads (to 180 on lines, 100-110 in settlements) suicides can only.
Fortunately, for all of us has ended well. There are passed 2500 kilometres for 6 days. For a four it is spent about $1000, with the account of residing, a food, gasoline, souvenirs and several belongings. Behind travel frameworks remained a fantastic palace in Hunedoara in which in a youth there lived Vlad Tsepesh, an ancient Saxon city of Sibiu with a museum where the largest collection of the Romanian painting is exposed, monastery Snagov in which head Drakuly is based, «a cheerful cemetery» in Sigetu-Marmatsiej (it was necessary to do a hook) and many other things. On all simply there was no time. The first impressions, together with friends, we share with their colleagues under coffee at them at office. They set up on a table a bottle slivovitsy. And I am time to us home, after all still at the wheel …