All Rovenshchina for three days

The army of travellers grows! Already couple of years the official statistics fixes rapid growth of the market of internal tourism in Ukraine. During the next trip on March days off we were convinced of it personally. Met familiar and unfamiliar, motorised and the pedestrian, travelling with official guidebooks and it is simple listings from this site. It seems, the idea which has born 3 years ago to help adherents the short systematised information on sights and hotels, simple councils and personal impressions has started to bear fruit. We will add in a coin box the report on purposeful "inspection" visit to the Rovno area – all the most interesting «in one bottle».

We leave before, that the long-awaited spring sun all road a star in a back. Of car inspection before a holiday on a Zhitomir line it is full, only have time to exchange with counter instants of headlights. An occasion to lift against us a striped staff persistently I do not give – we after all do not hurry up anywhere. Beyond Zhitomir on a line begins traditional spring "jamkovost" about which carefully warn traffic signs. But anything critical.

Border of the Rovno area – we interfere in limits of specific princes Ostrozhsky. This surname conducts an official family tree from 1368 when the grand duke Lithuanian Vitovt has presented the Volynsk city the Jail with the neighbouring earths to a certain companion by name of Feodor Danilovich which origin remains foggy. This "Danilych" also is considered now the first prince Ostrozhsky. The sort existed and krep throughout three centuries, the most appreciable historical monuments of region are connected with it.

Korets – east advanced post of a princedom – we take roundabout maneuver. Here for us anything new already is not present. Only we see off a sight towering over undersized building of small town an entrance tower of the lock Ostrozhsky.

Kilometres through 20 – turn on Great mezhirichi through Svitanok (on a short way through Self-arrows to go I do not recommend – lose the way). The tolerant road on quality results in large village in which centre the started vast object of a church Sacred Antonija (1650) towers . At once it is visible, that the life here once was far not such remote, as now. Since 1605 Great mezhirichi fully carried the city status – according to the Magdebourg right. There was also a lock, but from it remains nothing. There is only a palace of XVIII century which disappears behind trees on a hill hardly aside. To overcome soil lifting in slushy weather uneasy. And whether it is necessary to knead a spring dirt? A kind the residence ovruchskogo heads Yana Stetskogo, somehow adapted under a boarding school, has rather modest. Our car making "lap of honour" on a court yard, the surprised sights of a flock of present inhabitants of a palace see off. To communicate to the teacher who has left on a porch for some reason there is no desire …

In district Goshcha the much bigger economic potential thanks to an arrangement on a brisk line Kiev-Chop is felt. In the centre the attention unusual at once draws of the mnogookonnostju, well restored Mihajlovsky church (1638) . The main sight – a manor of landowners Valevsky – to find more difficultly. The shabby palace "shaded" standard rural adminzdanijami, hides in the depth of the started formal garden of XVIII century. As it is told in the guidebook, up to now from a prospering manor of XIX century here it was saved shabby by chalet time – type of farmstead construction seldom meeting in Ukraine. Generally, the chalet is an Alpine small house in France or Switzerland. In a present condition of manor this style is guessed unless in one fahverkovom a facade. All the rest gapes bald spots of the fallen off plaster or is imposed such poshlejshim by the Soviet tile, that already jaws reduces. Here after all even not state hospital, and «a culture oasis» – regional library. Well, beaten out window is very symbolically covered kumachovym by the poster on a theme of unity of party and the people.

For today it is enough impressions. A holiday after all, on March, 8th! A city Exactly – a place not too romantic. The halt decided to arrange in one of motelnyh complexes which on Rovno district becomes more and more. Demand also is great – rovenchane like to spend days off and holidays in the country, and passing tourists in expensive ski suits all become more exacting as regards kitchen and a comfortable lodging for the night. It is good, that number and a sauna in motel "Айвенго" have reserved in advance by phone. As it has appeared, it was necessary to reserve also a little table at restaurant – empty seats have not appeared. Anything, the celebratory supper with champagne, caviar and pineapples in number has seemed even more romantically, than in a noisy hall with live music.

Service. Private hotel "Marlene" (Grushevsky's street, 5; bodies: (0362) 69-06-00) near to the central part has exactly raised the status to four stars. All top-level, but the prices from 440 grn. For double are calculated obviously not on various strata of society. Got used to simplicity and mediocre service "Tourist" (street Kiev 36 more will approach; bodies: (0362) 26-74-13) or "World" (Mickiewicz's street 32; bodies: (0362) 22-12-55), that almost in the centre (from 120 grn.). In last major repairs have begun. For a good supper the local recommend decent restaurant "Pharaoh" (avenue of the World, 19), but it is better to choose at once one of complex institutions on the district: "Ajvengo" (with. Kolodenka; bodies: (0362) 20-89-52), «4х4» (with. Kolodenka; bodies: (0362) 20-88-00), "Farm" (with. Great Omeljana; bodies: (0362) 29-93-58). All with comfortable numbers on 150-200 grn., with good restaurants, in the last is also bowling.

How much time passed through equal, and on excursion were honoured for the first time! The lock after all here already is not present – has disappeared on fire fire, the rests have disassembled only half a century ago. And after all the wife of prince Nesvitsky Maria in 1479 has put in pawn it on island in the middle of the big lake. Maria Rovenskuju as the foundress of a city, consider here almost sacred. Recently have established a grandiose monument on the general background in the reconstructed part of street Cathedral. And here princes Ostrozhsky for two centuries of an appreciable trace in a city have not left. Their successors Ljubomirsky were engaged in active building, having erected on a place zamkovyh ruins a perfect baroque palace and park with office constructions. Now here hydropark and stadium, about former magnificence the former greenhouse reminds only. Ljubomirsky it is possible to carry to a heritage also a church St. Antonija (1868) with ridiculous hours on a facade – here execute an organ music.

The rest can be bypassed for half an hour: the Voskresensky cathedral, Uspensky church, the former grammar school where now the museum of local lore … Is fragments of the old building, some interesting monuments, cosy enough parks. Very much I recommend to allocate also time for visiting of the Rovno zoo, that on entrance to a city from Kiev – simply charming provinciality, very picturesque on a relief, with good "assortment" of animals. A lion toiling in a cage disclosing vicinities by a melancholy roar, here it is possible to consider from distance literally in pair metres.

We get out of a city in a direction of Lutsk, we slip the index on Hotin. It not, where a fortress. In local Hotine, on the bank of small river Goryn, is maloissledovannye caves, speak, leaders already in equal. Assume, that here there was any ancient settlement.

Through 20 km – Klevan. In a place where the line a loop goes down to the river, over road the orthodox church of Christmas (1777) towers Traditional appearance. Here and the fork, two first coats leave more to the left. That, that above, conducts to collars of the lock of princes Chartoryjsky which suited in Klevani the main base in XV century. It is visible, that the construction many times was reconstructed and became stronger, but a present condition … At once confuse powerful sdvizhnye the metal gate hinting on penitentsiarnyj character of an institution which was here in the Soviet times. The state tile in premises gives out its hospital purpose. A mental hospital, whether that? Is not present – LTP! I.e., a medical-labour dispensary, hospital for compulsory treatment of alcoholics. For a long time any more does not work. Only two companions with heavy sights frowningly, very similar to the former clients of "sanatorium", spill in a court yard vodka in plastic glasses. Probably, visit places of "fighting glory». To break their rest it would not be desirable. It is necessary to go round zamkovyj a hill from below – to take a view of the lock from the different parties, to make out the impressive arch bridge. It is better to choose dry weather for these maneuvers, or to count on a full drive of the car.

Met the information, that klevansky the lock are going to to reconstruct. Very much costs, after all it was saved fine. Now it is spoilt only not by absolutely successful arrangement (there is no picturesque kind) and prison spirit. Such thoughts we share behind a soup plate in nice roadside kolybe "Skolmo" on departure from Klevani (at once it is visible, that the owner the present Huzul-gazda). And more we do not know, that will be ahead.

On residence Radzivillov in Olyke on a line Exactly-lutsk we noticed the index in transit repeatedly. Has come to curtail time. We overcome 6 kilometres of a strange stone blocks – the road is laid out shestigrannikami which consist of cobble-stones, stsementirovannyh by obviously industrial way. Similar, did more close to the XX-th century middle, and up to now the reliable covering has reached in almost ideal condition. On entrance in Olyku meet Lutsky gate lonely standing at a roadside – everything, that remains from system of city strengthenings. In the centre of visitors welcomes a smart Troitsk church (XVII century), not lost magnificent baroque magnificence even for 50 years of the Soviet power. It was even better saved square bastionnyj lock Radzivillov (XVI century) . After all Olyka was the main residence of this nice Polish sort of land owners already to the Second World War! Throughout four centuries the lock remained inhabited, Radzivilly it some times reconstructed and up to the end supported in an excellent condition. The Soviet power has found of a historical monument "worthy" application – here have placed psychiatric hospital. People in white dressing gowns and striped pyjamas occupy it both now. And what for was to establish on a line the tempting index on sight? To disappoint tourists?

We go aside Dubno. Attempt to drive through Pitushkov terminates in short road in a full failure. More precisely, set of failures on broken very much prosyolke. We decide not to risk – we come back to a line and we go to detour through Lutsk. It is kilometres on 40 further, but without superfluous adventures. With an easy regret we pass settlement Mlinov with beautiful manor of prince Hodkevicha (1780), and also the perceptible index on Berestechko – business approaches by the evening.

We have time to drop in in Cockroaches. On departure the village towards Lvov to the right of a cemetery is left uphill by a very narrow path with asphalt traces. We leave the car under trees at hill top, on foot we go down in dark gorge. Before us huge fortifikatsionnoe a construction of the square form with a giant defensive ditch, powerful brick walls and dilapidated casemates. It is the Tarakanovsky fort erected in the end of XIX century by order of Alexander III for protection of the Lvov railway from intrigues of Austro-Hungary. Speak, from the point of view of military engineering the fortress has turned out not absolutely successful, but scope simply stunning! Present paradise for fans of military history and admirers of role games, whose traces here meet everywhere. It would be possible to climb long on shaft and bastions, but stirs a cold rain and importunate presence of any peasant as though accidentally wiped near of our lonely car. It is time to have a rest.

Service. Modern hotel "Дубно" (street D. Galitskogo, 53; bodies: (03656) 41-802) has to organise a halt in this city. There are also budgetary numbers till 70-90 grn., and comfortable – from 130 grn. The decent alternative to hotel restaurant while is not present. As a variant, for 100 grn. For two it is possible to be arranged on spending the night in unpretentious private motel "Вежа" (square Privokzalnaja; bodies. Of the owner: (050) 515-5802) it is direct at railway station. The pair of cheap motels for truckers is and on the district. From variants of spending the night in neighbouring settlements it is necessary to mention only old regional hotel "Вилия" (avenue of Independence, 5; bodies: (03654) 23-052) in the Jail centre.

Disappointments will suffice from us! Last day trips there was most "tasty". In Dubno we happened repeatedly, but we can not give up to ourselves in pleasure once again to walk on several miracle to the saved ancient small streets. In one end – original "high-rise building" of Lutsky gate (XVI century) and a huge object bernardinskogo a monastery (1627), converted in an orthodox Piously-Nikolaev cathedral. In other – a monastery complex karmelitok (1630-86), a dividing premise with an oncological clinic. Between them some more cult constructions, ancient houses and manors mixed up with modern constructions. And, of course, the Dubnensky lock (1492) all the same legendary dynasty Ostrozhsky.

If read «Tarasa Potatoes», for certain remember a siege of the Dubnensky lock the Zaporozhye army and change atamanskogo the son. «I have generated you, I and will kill you!» Is was here. By the way, for all history this stronghold so to anybody also did not manage to be subdued. Now here historical expositions are opened some, on the sly restore interiors of a palace Ljubomirsky which, among other, owned the lock in XVIII century. Near to an input pleases an eye accurately restored small house in which just about will open hotel and restaurant «antik a house». Thanks to a good tourist infrastructure and a convenient arrangement on the Lvov line here always it is a lot of visitors, including "self-propelled". One of excursion groups with astonishment and joyfully welcomes us. Speak, have gone on target to travel on locks, nachitavshis reports from this site. Pleasantly.

It not last meeting for today. At popular small restaurant "Sofia" on Rovno district with us colleagues from club "AutoUA" greet. Before it have noticed in dubnenskoj to hotel group of tourists-amatorov with enthusiasm studying a map with which we will be crossed once again already in the Jail. And not only with them.

Picturesque road from equal to the Jail in a decent condition. Somewhere in the middle – congress to Sacred Nikolay's wonder-working source where come for curative voditsej from all vicinities. Hardly further – a monastery and a rest complex over nice lake. To Someone influential these places have strongly sunk down in soul – on opposite coast the accurate modern cottage is seen, the huge piece of territory is fenced off by a fence.

The Jail calls feeling of admiration of the deep history, mixed with a bitter regret concerning the deaf person "osovetchenoj" downtroddenness.

The name does not require interpretation – a jail it and there is a jail, i.e. a fencing from ostroverhih logs. There was it here in 1100 to what "accounting record" in Ipatievsky annals testifies. And from the end of XIV century when Feodor Danilovich mentioned above here has lodged, rough blossoming begins – there is a powerful lock, defensive walls with towers, various cult constructions. In 1528 the city acquires the Magdebourg right and soon becomes informal capital of region.

In zamkovom a museum there is the big breadboard model visually showing, harmonious the city during those far times was what. In the centre of the market area, obstroennoj medieval "kamenitsami", the town hall towered. The grid of small streets therefrom ran up, main from which conducted to the lock. Everywhere beautiful temples, fortifikatsionnye constructions around. With melancholy the sad modern landscape from Watchtower height is examined. On a place of the market area costs ugly devjatietazhka. Ancient buildings in a dilapidated condition, or are somehow adapted for economic needs. The Tatar gate and a synagogue have got lost among private building. The tower of Lutsky gate is well appreciable from the main street only – the publishing museum here works.

Who did not hear about the Ostrozhsky Bible? On it the first swore (or the second, considering Grushevsky) the President of Ukraine L.Kravchuk, and informal inauguration after the second round still definitively not the selected V.Jushchenko then spent. For the first time in Church Slavonic language of the book Old and the New testament Ivan Fyodorov has published here in 1580. Russian first printer for this sacred business was invited to itself by Konstantin Ostrozhsky – the most outstanding representative of a princely sort. The printing house worked in Ostrozhsky academy – the first East slavic higher school. Now it is the present university, though also poor. And after all too the most powerful potential for city development. Here Ukrainian language Vrotslav to arrange … «I Wish to be the mayor of the Jail!», has categorically declared Ksjuha when we left a city.

Of Jail revival it is dreamt on road in mezhirich (a direction on SHumsk and Kremenets). We pass the bridge through small river, we rise on a first coat to a powerful monastic complex with stone walls and shestigrannymi towers. A defensive monastery-fortress have started to build in mezhirichah also in days of Ostrozhsky, that is appreciable by characteristic Gothic "crowns" zubchikov on towers. The complex is recently returned in the order of monks which have developed here rough restoration activity. To visit Troitsk church (XV century) with unusual turrets-extensions costs at least for the sake of an ancient icon of Ostrozhsky Divine Mother of XVI century though more sacred here consider wonder-working icon Antonija Great.

Last test – road in Novomalin. The severe stone blocks checks on durability a suspension bracket of ours "Forestera". I know, that, the above speed, the less jolting, but to be dispersed all the same strashnovato. Later 6 kilometres it is taxied up to ruins of one more medieval castle. It appears, here again we not one! The couple of "advanced" tourists passionately carried away by history with the directory of architectural monuments of Ukraine in hands somehow has reached here the course, and waits now for vespers marshrutki. They travel slowly and thoughtfully. From them we learn, that a pentahedral tower of the lock of princes Svidrigajlo (XV century) Later it has been transformed into a chapel of new owners Malinsky, paternal and there were on it such unusual spikes. That Poles in first half of XX-th century tried to restore the lock. That during operation "Vistula" here contained immigrants. They have learnt these and other details from the local residents, which all time showed to us any unhealthy interest. Were going to groups around, about something whispered, for some reason cautiously were interested, that we sell. Also what we can sell here? Vodka, whether that?

On road to the Jail where our new acquaintances have stopped, we have learnt the whole history about features of medieval building, ways of manufacture of a brick-palchatki, a compounding of limy cement and many other things. You will seldom meet the people who have been so carried away by history to storm all most remote sights practically on foot, to save on conveniences, to spend the night in Spartan conditions, but to receive the most protogenic, "wild" impressions of those places which we frequently slip by the way. I hope, they will read this report, will contact us, and we will get out somehow in a joint trip. The back sofa of ours "Forestera" happens too often unfairly free.