Without skis in Slavsky – a March route

«A Zhitomir line!», - has joyfully exclaimed Ksjuha when we have curtailed from Heroes Stalingrada on the Moscow prospectus. «Has guessed. Give further». «Korosten?» "Is not present". «Voevodino?» «It too a variant. But there, where we go, we yet were not». «H'm … but in that direction continuous cities! And you have told, that it is necessary to take things as for village». "Indeed". «Svirzh?» «Has almost guessed. There we too will be». «Truskavets?» «It is close. But in Truskavets we already were». «Slavsky?!» «In a point!».

Approximately under such slow, but we with Ksjuhoj have reached on 7th of March fascinating conversation-rebus of Zhitomir, whence it was necessary to begin actually the new travel which idea has arisen at me the day before at night. By then I have already lost any hope to think up any such gift on 8 Martha. And such variant killed at once two hares – both a surprise pleasant, and possibility to get out of a city for some days the remarkable. Key points have been thought over in advance, but the route developed spontaneously enough. The result has turned out following: Kiev - Hmelnik - Ternopol - Svirzh - Village Stare - Slavsky - Rogatin - mezhgore - pomorjany - Khmelnitskiy - Kiev.

Hmelnik, Ternopol

We moved in the Lvov direction, but on road have decided to visit some new places. To the first became Hmelnik towards which have curtailed after Zhitomir from Berdichev.

Having driven in small town, it is necessary to turn on the left under indexes on Khmelnitskiy to get to the centre. Here, over Southern Bug, unusual and very eclectic lock-palace of XV century From the river it towers looks as a classical medieval stronghold, but from the smart party – a typical palace in style of classicism. It is the latest extension erected in 1911-1915 for count Ksido. And the most outstanding octahedral tower, presumably, is a basis of a minaret of times of Turkish sovereignty. The city after all has more than 600 years of history in which current it belonged both to Lithuanians, and Poles, both Turks, and Russian. In a tower the museum, and in the lock – the extremely budgetary hotel is arranged. Surprisingly, but in Ukraine too it is possible to be in the lock!

On an entrance to Ternopol twilight has started to be condensed – the destiny itself has defined a spending the night place. Confidently we call in in familiar hotel "Alligator" *** (street Gaevaja, 29; bodies: (0352) 22-7172). As already marked in one of the previous reports, itself otelchik very comfortable, but on an entrance to it it is necessary to overcome metres 500 such terrifying roads, that fair tryohzvyozdnost hotels it is perceived already with some mistrust. Could and put at own expense asphalt if tear up $50 for the double. Evening already traditionally has ended in is more tremendous picturesque «Old mlyne» (street Brodovsky, 1а) where the plentiful ethnic cuisine goes under a strong national drink as children to school.

Svirzh, Village Stare

The line passes through centre Svirzha where the lock Polish shljahtichej Svirzhsky (1482) dominates on a hill. The kind has a construction very romantic and picturesque thanks to strict forms in a combination to difficult structure. But not too unapproachable – Cossacks Khmelnitskiy took it «on time». To the lock has carried with owners, in a current of centuries it regularly updated and restored. Including present owners – the National union of architects of Ukraine, planning suit here a rest house. Unfortunately, inside to get it was not possible. Winter – not the best time for visiting even the "cultivated" Ukrainian locks. The most picturesque panorama opens from below, from opposite coast of the big pond.

The road through Bibrku to Lvov passes by Old Village. Here too necessarily it is necessary to turn, having overcome small serpantinchik. A show exotic enough. In the middle of deaf village in a valley between hills, it is direct over the railway, the construction which for some reason has called me of association with the Roman Collosseo towers, apparently, simply tsiklopicheskoe in comparison with surrounding landscape. Walls in height of 14-16 m in the form of a wrong triangle with three towers surround territory with the area of 2 hectares. Even the extremely started condition is not capable to belittle impression of the powerful lock Ostrozhsky (1584-1648). During the best times has successfully sustained not one siege while in XVIII century has not lost definitively defensive value and has been transformed by Pototskys into brewery with what decline has begun. Of former magnificence remind only dilapidated belokamennye "crowns" on towers.

By the way, in vicinities Bibrki have found out at once two places where it is possible to take rest with comfort on the nature if there is no desire to go to Lvov. The big complex of rest "uzlissja" (bodies: (032) 241-1246, (03263) 41-658) over lake near to village of the Arrow has to summer relaksu more. Anyway, the promised snowmobiles available it has not appeared, and it is more there there is nothing in the winter. The base of rest «the Bay of Vikings» (More was pleasant with. Old Village; bodies: (032) 240-3428, (067) 512-5555) with a smart stable. There at once two lakes in an environment of hills to live it is possible in comfortable six-seater small houses with fireplaces, there is a sauna and a heap mangalnyh platforms, the skating rink in the winter operates, it is possible to go for a drive on horses or sledge. And the restaurant in the middle of lake in a kind drakara (boats of Vikings) attracts to spend romantic evening on water. Naturally, it is better in the summer.

The Slavsky

Party of "taxi drivers" on UAZ around mountain Polytechnic University – one of cards Slavsky. It seems, the resort actively develops, owners of boarding houses on new road could and be thrown off. But is not present, then after all everyone can go for a drive on the car. And so – all carrying in hands "vuek".

Mountain-skiing advantages Slavsky to estimate I not undertake – not the skier I. Speak, here the best in Ukraine lines for professionals and ekstremalov. There is one and a half ten bugelnyh and one kreselnyj the lift. Conditions for unsportsmanlike rest not the rich. There is a museum of emancipating struggle OUN-UPA (street Sechevyh streltsov, 2). It is possible to improvise any foot route. For $200 for two suggest to organise 6-hour excursion in mountains on snowmobiles (the dinner enters into cost in mountain kolybe). Each decent boarding house has a sauna. There is a limited choice of good small restaurants and kolyb. That's all entertainments.

And here to find worthy conditions of residing for moderate money – a problem at all during the highest season. At once have called in to check up evident on entrance «Smerekovu a hut» (Ivan Franka's street, 57Б; bodies: (03251) 41-650) at Polytechnic University bottom. That, service and comfort on the five. But the prices … Numbers with conveniences from 650 grn., block – 400. It is better to go in "Bukovel". "Burgher-trostjan" (street Shevchenko, 67; bodies: (0322) 75-49-54, (050) 522-9012) in a deserted place between Polytechnic University and Trostjanom has met crowd sad administratorsh and full absence of lodgers. And it is clear. Numbers a lot of very different for different money, but all absolutely uncomfortable. We go further. Quite good impression the new complex "Lagoon" (has made Franc street, 21; bodies: (03251) 42-192). The fresh case, numbers with conveniences from 200 grn., own restaurant, a sauna and even bowling. But again taki there is no something imperceptible, associating with concept "cosiness".

That as a result we have found on base «Perlina Carpathians» *** (Ivan Franka's street, 43Б; bodies: (0322) 97-15-16, 41-103). Not so new (the reconstructed cases of old Soviet base), but straight off gaining the arranged well territory, the affable personnel, and also atmosphere not zaoblachno expensive, but a prestigious resort to what photos of numerous eminent lodgers testify. Also has simply subdued a usual double room with a huge mirror over a bed and a balcony with a kind on mountains (from 180 grn.). Evening have spent simply perfectly, including a sauna and a traditional trout under white Georgian wine at local small restaurant. On March, 8th it was possible on glory!

univ, pomorjany, Khmelnitskiy

For peremyshljanami have turned in mezhgore which carries now the restored name of Unicentury Pair of kilometres through village, and we approach on a Greco-catholic Univsky monastery (1400). The silent monastery based by prince Feodor Ljubartovichem among Gologorsky hills, impresses at once with defensive power. Monks occupy only one wing, other complex is opened for free visiting. The Uspensky church looking more likely as a serf tower-donzhon, gives bright representation about transition from a gothic style to the Renaissance. In court yard gallery unique Christian relics, as, for example, a thousand-year cross are collected. The monastery is famous for a wonder-working icon of the Mother of god and a salutary source. Beauty, silence, a pacification, nezloblivye monks …

For Zolochevom (the local lock already saw), not reaching Ternopol, we turn off on pomorjany. This village precisely is not treated kindly by attention of tourists. On the centre the local looked at our maneuvers with undisguised curiosity. A pier that them here has brought on this beautiful silvery wheelbarrow? Has brought us to look ruins of palace-lock JAkuba Sobessky (ХVІ-ХV ІІ centuries), the father of the future king of Poland. A construction very majestic, but strongly started. External walls were saved rather not bad, but from park kinds on a dilapidated arcade of an internal court yard simply depressing. And it is a pity. After all the lock is located near to a brisk line, has rich history and could involve crowds of tourists if not with a unique exposition it is simple restavrirovannymi interiors. I hope, at somebody hands will reach, while the palace was finished by elements and local residents.

Twilight has found on an entrance to Khmelnitskiy. Basically, it was possible to get up courage and in some hours dopilit to Kiev, but after all same possibility at last to stay the night in the big city where we yet were not! In the centre have quickly oriented and left on hotel "Энеида" *** (street Theatrical, 8; bodies: (0382) 79-5932). Hotel big and Soviet, but partially reconstructed. There are even very good junior suites for 175 grn. All in one price, but the most comfortable – on 9th floor.

Sights in a city very little – the rather poor history (500 years) and strong destructions during war affects. After all an administrative centre of area the city of Proskurov (byv. Ploskirov) became only in 1941 Vrochem, original poluprovitsialnyj colour we have found here again. But furious resistance to survey of not numerous monuments of architecture was rendered by the weather which has quickly tired out us by a cold wind with a rain in first beer in the foot street Proskurova. Here, for sugrevom and a dense supper, have spent all the evening long. The detailed review scarce Khmelnitskiy interesnostej we will leave on following time.

There was only a road to Kiev. This time have chosen the shortest way, through Starokonstantinov, in hope once again to look and embody on an electronic flesh-map Konstantin Ostrozhskogo's lock. However weather and here has introduced corrective amendments in our tourist plans. Landscapes were covered with a dense fog, sleet has gone, and we needed to reach slowly only Kiev, planning on coffee stops routes of the future travel.