Sokirintsy-Trostjanets-Kachanovka: through thorns to parks

Is expensive to be afraid – in autotravel not to go. To go it would be desirable so, that has not stopped even approximate representation about a spring condition of roads of local value in the Chernigov area. So at once council to all followers – prepare for the worst. No, not to "most", and to «MOST!». The blessing, that distance between three pearls of dvortsovo-park art CHernigovshchiny are absolutely insignificant – no more than 30 km. At a high-speed mode in 40-60 km/h (sometimes 20-40) they are quite overcome for half an hour lost-free for wheels and a suspension bracket. But nerves exhausts more purely a stopper on the Moscow bridge. A slalom between holes, sharp dumps of speed almost to zero there where to go round it is impossible, jolting on potholes and to that similar delights. Sometimes the road is not present, there is only a direction. Literally – there is a turn, something of type of avenue with trees on each side, and the road is not present, all has grown. As a fairy tale simply smart "highways" on this background are recollected (to 150 rushed!) Between villages Poltavshchiny. Who is afraid of difficulties of a way – to you in Sorochintsy and Dikanku. And we have gone to look parks and palaces.

At o'clock in the afternoon have left Kiev in the Brovarsky direction. On the main fork in Brovarah – to the right, on Sumy tarssu. Ahead there were 3 free days so have decided to visit at the same time and in Sumy (has somehow met photos of the restored central part of a city - very much it was pleasant). The plan was that: Kiev-Trostjanets-Sumy (spending the night)-Sokirintsy-Kachanovka (spending the night)-Kiev. Details have specified behind an easy dinner in roadside cafe "Bend" on departure from Rusanov (I recommend – an excellent inexpensive shish kebab!). On a course plans should be corrected.

Sokirintsy

To go deep into a jungle of the Ukrainian remote places today it would not be desirable any more. After walk we come back to the Sumy line and forward – to Sumy. Here it, the present ambush. Dvadtsatikilometrovyj a site from Srebnogo to border of the Sumy area, right after the short repaired site. Enormous ruts meet each 300-500 metres, them it is well visible in advance thanks to set of fat, black traces of the emergency braking which have remained from those who before it was too strongly dispersed. The majority of holes is filled generously up by simple rubble, but it is necessary to pass all the same with speed of the pedestrian. On Sumshchine the situation is better, but too places. Affairs in Romnah are especially bad, them I recommend to pass through the centre (after the second moving at once on the left on parkway) – streets are broken, but not to such degree, as roundabout. More shortly, the trip for these capitally has exhausted 2 hours, in nedrigajlove it was necessary even to make a short-term stop on coffee and on to smoke. By the way, cafe «Old Mlyn» with motel – a unique decent institution in these edges where prepare popular in roadside bars of espresso of "R.E.J.V".

Sumy

City enough young – to it of only 350 years. It is based, as it is considered, belotserkovskimi Cossacks for protection of southern borders of the Moscow Russia against attacks of Tatars and nazvanyj by name of small rivers of the Bag which merges with Pselom just around the historical centre. On the eve of the Poltava fight here there was Peter I. Was here and the wooden fortress which has turned subsequently in a park zone. Objects of tourist interest are concentrated in the central part. Roads to a city in bad, but the traveller a condition. Spring holes in many places are already cut on squares and them gradually patch.

Light day still suffices on walk on the centre. Foot street Cathedral have really well restored, have dressed in trotuarnuju a tile «from Omelchenko» and have illuminated lanterns. It However, looks any empty and dullish, though on it of full various banks, little shops and entertaining institutions. The beautiful Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy cathedral with a dominating high belltower is allocated. Restoration jobs are conducted and in parallel street Frunze. Siluetnaja the composition of the two-storeyed historical centre is added by verticals of Voskresensky and Ilinsky churches. Around parks and public gardens. The big and semi-official area of Independence with the City Council and Regional administration building – residence of nice governor Scherban. Evening physical exercise is combined with definition of the best place for a supper. A choice very big, in many institutions we come to check up simply, and later also have travelled on a city by a taxi in search of the best place for evening pastime. The impressing list has turned out.

«On Pselsky», a bar (street Pselsky, 26; bodies: (0542) 21-02-39) I Recommend! Excellent small restaurant-brewery near to city centre, in 100 m from hotel "Chemist". Firm the Expert-beer "Pselsky" (2.50 grn. For 0.5). Two halls in style of a classical English pub. The little table is better for reserving in advance as the institution uses the big popularity at visitors. The average price of the basic dish – 15 grn.

«At a fireplace», restaurant (street Cathedral, 34; bodies: (0542) 21-26-41) It is located in the city centre, in a foot zone. Quiet conditions (if traditional live music does not confuse), a pleasant interior, good service. An European cuisine, the rich fish menu, all is very tasty. The average price of a meat dish – 15-20 grn., fish – 20-30 grn.

"Modernist style", cafe-bar (Kovpak's street, 71; bodies: (0542) 24-71-83) Restaurant-club on city suburb, around new buildings. An institution with the claim on elitnost. Richly issued restoranno-banquet hall (do not smoke) also a "youth" hall with the show program (there is a striptease). An input in a banquet hall – 30 grn. (15 from them enter into the bill), in "youth" – 45 grn. The average price of the basic dish – 15 grn.

"Amigos", a tavern (street Cathedral, 44; bodies: (0542) 21-58-29, 22-12-20) It is located in the city centre, in a foot zone. Enters into an entertaining complex "Signature stamp" with a bar and bowling (from 27 grn. In an hour). A stylish interior, a sharp Mexican cuisine, but pustovato even on target (for us the hall specially opened – there in general was nobody).

"San Remo", entertaining complex (the Red area, 2; bodies: (0542) 27-51-37) a complex of rest Popular in well-founded townspeople almost in the city centre. Here spend family evenings with children. There is a bar, restaurant, diskoklub, billiards. For children – Intrenet-club with computer games. A classical modern interior. Works till 4.00 mornings.

«Old mlyn», restaurant (the lane Country, 9а: bodies: (0542) 22-98-41, 22-36-04) a rest Complex in a resort zone on the bank of the river Psel, near to city centre. It is executed in style of the Ukrainian village with mud huts and straw roofs. The restaurant hall, separate booths, a beach zone. A traditional Ukrainian cuisine: fat with garlic, house sausage, solenja, deruny, jushka, a borsch etc.

"Gourmet", restaurant of east kitchen (street Peter and Paul, 65; bodies: (0542) 22-54-74) It is located near to the central part of a city. It is considered one of the oldest expensive restaurants of a city. Works from 12.30 till.

«Zorjana nich», restaurant (street May Day, 29; bodies: (0542) 215-753) restaurant of club type Popular in local residents with a disco. It is very noisy.

Trostjanets and Kachanovka

The village makes amazing impression: village village, but everywhere cypresses and any evergreen bushes – purely Yalta! Identical typical small houses along the main streets, a decent view office buildings, relative cleanliness. To an input in park the cypress avenue along which stand model hatki conducts. At gate a parking, the tablet with quotations (an input – 1 grn., excursion – 10 grn.), but any cash desk it is not visible, all doors are closed, anybody asks nothing and in general nearby only one car with Kiev numbers. And silence … We go deep into park.

It has been based in 1834 by known Ukrainian magnate Ivan Skoropadskim – the monument to it costs on an input, and he is buried in territory. Now it is dendrology park under the authority of NAN Ukraine where spend different scientific researches. Territory very big. Such impression, that without the guide it is possible to lose the way. Especially in that part, that from a river opposite side where it is artificial the unique landscape is created. Paths wind between hills and hillocks, porosshimi every possible trees, the majority from which coniferous and are delivered from the most different places. All it was filled and dug manually to create the necessary climatic conditions for each plant. In different places it is possible to come across that a monument of Shevchenko, on the Scythian woman, on a rotunda, on the Grief column. And in lake swans silently float – do not forget to grasp a long loaf for feeding. The majority of avenues and clearings have the names. To understand, it is necessary either to have the plan, or to employ the guide.

The most fluent walk occupies not less than two hours, and it would be desirable to be in time still in Kachanovku. We move further, from park avenue to the right to a fork with the tank on a pedestal, and therefrom under the index on Ichnju. Road dreadful. Minutes for 20-25 we reach the big village Parafievka, and there in the centre there is an index on Kachanovku. Well everything, at least have not lost the way. We pass through Petrushovku, then the bridge through small river and we before entrance on territory kachanovskogo park. The road goes abruptly upwards, and further a barrier and the security guard from whom it is possible to find out all questions, beginning from a parking and finishing a lodging for the night. For 15 grn. It starts up us on territory directly to a palace by the car.

This park has made the greatest impression from all three. More precisely, it it is necessary to name a dvortsovo-park complex as the palace plays ensemble far not last role. So, manor of a family of Tarnovsky 19th century where stopped Taras Shevchenko, Pantelejmon Kulish, Marko Vovchok, artists Vrubel and Petrov-Vodkin. It is possible to visit Glinka's arbour where the opera «Ruslan and Lyudmila», in a hall where sang Gulak-art Emovsky was created, Gogol read for the first time "Marriage", and Repin worked over a picture «Zaporozhtsy write the letter to the Turkish sultan» … One only transfer of outstanding visitors of manor will occupy, I think, the whole page. And still it is possible to walk among Romantic ruins, along the greatest among 12 ponds of Majorsky Shevchenko to a glade, in natural boundary Empty Krinitsa, on the Love hill etc. we Understand, that for evening of all not to examine, it is necessary to search for a lodging for the night.

The two-storeyed palace wing in which to be hotel, appears is closed. The security guard explains, that it is necessary to find in Petrushovke administratorshu and gives navodku on its house. And she suddenly declares, that in numbers now is not cleaned, that nobody will do it now because Sunday that can lodge in a small house of the gardener, but there not all conveniences and is not present some hot water. The offer to overpay over the tariff of action has no. Well, much to our regret, private business in these edges does not prosper, and the commercial vein in people simply is not present. Even there is no place to have dinner here, products need to be carried with itself and to prepare on kitchen in a wing. But for lonely rest by the small company on fresh air in romantic and unusual atmosphere – a place ideal! Only the hotel needs to be reserved in advance: (04633 2-41-15, 2-41-25, 2-41-05. For residing offer double rooms with conveniences, hot water is provided with "Titan", and on the second floor there is a smart hall where there was an office of one of owners of manor and whence the excellent kind on park and a palace opens. Cost – from 20 grn. From the person. We decide to go here once again with friends with spending the night for now, not to come back at once to Kiev, it decided to visit Chernigov again.

Chernigov

Sight of a city I will not describe, read in other report more in detail. I will note some nuances on an entertaining infrastructure. Grown fond to us on last times beer restaurant «Old hailstones» (avenue of the World, 32; bodies: (04622) 7-41-65) now does not work. As excellent replacement the small restaurant "Mamma Mia can serve it!" (Avenue of the World, 47; bodies: (0462) 17-57-76) near to "the book House", involving with an original interior, quiet atmosphere and good kitchen. For solid autotourists it is possible to recommend smart restaurant "Ливадия" on a corner of street of Pushkin and Sverdlova. And on former a cult place there is club-cafe "Этуаль" (street Pjatnitsky, 50; bodies: (0462) 185-730, 185-739) on crossing of streets Kiev and Pjatnitsky with a disco and bowling "Traffic light".

Morning has begun with a breakfast in "Etuali" and traditional walk on the Chernigov shaft. Further before us the road to Kiev, seeming after all previous present avtobanom laid direct as an arrow. The general run for three days of travel has made about 850 km. The trip budget has kept within in 750 grn., including gasoline, hotels and taverns (excepting some "excesses" of type of considerable quantity of expensive cognac in a night bar of hotel in Sumy). I hope, the trip was not strongly reflected in a condition running the car, and that should be added on here also amortisation. Impressions simply weight. I recommend to all! Only be protected holes and protect a suspension bracket …