Tavrijsky spring: Nikolaevshchina, Hersonshchina, Crimea

Infinite virgin beach where you will not meet traces of the person, and an ultramodern aquapark with full service, colonies nepuganyh birds and crowd of idle tourists, old regional gostinichki and smart multistars hotels, pelmeni under cheap vodka in a snack bar and a magnificent supper at the Italian restaurant … It was travel full of contrasts. Steppe and mountains, the sea and the rivers, the sun and downpours. Any day was not similar to the previous. The Azovsko-Black Sea coast is huge and various both by the nature, and on tourist osvoennosti. On an Arabatsky arrow can shparit the sun, and in Feodosiya at this time – to pour a rain. When Northern Black Sea Coast only clears up from hibernation, on JUBK already in all the beginning of a resort season boils. And only violence of blossoming grasses and juicy greens accompanied us everywhere is one of brightest advantages of a trip on the south of Ukraine in second half of May. One more conclusive plus - insignificant quantity of tourists-competitors that does visiting of the basic sights unusually comfortable, and the personnel relation - very individual and quivering. Pleasant survey of nature sanctuaries and architecture also is promoted vesennja by weather, yet too hot that provesit all the day long standing under the sun, but already enough warm that with pleasure to sunbathe and even to bathe. Well and certainly the prices which in May in many cases simply are not comparable with August - time in three more low. At rather modest budget it is possible to count on unusually high level of service. We all it have decided to check up on ourselves.

Road on the south

The lunch break successfully drops out on roadside small restaurant "Котайк" at once for Stanislavovym. Very cosy territory with summer platforms, the original Caucasian menu (matsun, tan, chinahi, kebaby, ajran etc.), but kitchen so-so, only the tolerable. 15-20 grn. For the basic dish. Tried to notice on road the promised index on a museum of Rocket strategic forces near Pervomaisk, but, possibly, have passed. In the Pervomaisk open manholes on brisk roads have been noticed. Nikolaev have reached without adventures.

Nikolavev

Time speech has come about a public catering – at once short digression. “Club Colosseo” (street Shevchenko, 64а, a corner Soviet; bodies: 47-58-18) – there is nothing to tell, simply excellent Italian restaurant in a foot zone (average cost of the basic dish – 20 grn.). "Malachite" (street Moscow, 16) – unsightly outside, but very pleasant inside small restaurant is a little away from peshehodki. Magnificent kitchen, huge portions (20 grn. For the basic dish), unostentatious live music. "Bokas-Del-Toro" (street Soviet, 5) – an excellent pizzeria in the centre, for some reason in the Mexican style. Except pizzas (14-18 grn.), it is possible to use services of a salad bar (8 grn. A plate). "Lasunka" (street Soviet) – inexpensive cafe in modern style near to hotel "Continent". It is possible to have breakfast well. The most picturesque institutions all it only which it was possible proinspektirovat personally. And in general in the centre they almost continually.

The city of shipbuilders is not rich with sights, but is all the same penetrated by spirit of history Russian (and then and Soviet) imperstva. Put in pawn by prince Potyomkin-Taurian in 1789, it became the main base for building and development of the Black Sea fleet. The name has received in honour of a capture of Ochakov in day of Sacred Nikolay – the patron of seamen. The memorial board reminds of the city founder on one of the oldest buildings in a foot zone while only. The main monuments have blurred all over the world. Here the battleship "Potyomkin", a space vessel "Academician Korolyov", the well-known Soviet aircraft carrier "Kiev" and the most powerful ship of the Navy of Russia a cruiser-aircraft carrier «the Admiral of Smiths» has been floated. Therefore the city and long time have been closed for visiting not only foreigners, but also simple Soviet tourists.

It is interesting to walk along the street Admiral's, examining old buildings. It will deduce on Lenin's area with monuments to seamen-commandoes and the leader of proletariat, and therefrom – on Naval parkway with an old gun and set summer kafeshek. Something it vaguely reminds Seaside in Odessa, only very started. At desire it is possible to pass on the foot bridge to opposite coast Ingula to yacht-club, to admire sailing vessels. Also we have visited a shipbuilding Museum (street Admiral's, 4) – simply children's delight from filigree models linkorov, frigates, galeonov and other multigun handsome men of Ekaterina's times. Naturally, there are the expositions devoted to other sea epoch up to the present. Also it is possible to visit Museum of local lore (street of Decembrists, 32) with a collection of archeological finds from Olvii, a museum of artist-marine painter Vereschagin (Big Sea, 47) and one of the best in Europe the Nikolaev zoo (square Leontovicha).

About hotels. The best choice, in my opinion, - "Continent" ***, former "Central" (street of Admiral Makarova, 41; bodies: (0512) 47-75-21, 47-75-22). The building is recently reconstructed, located in the centre in a foot zone (in this occasion there are problems with an entrance by the car to an input – cops drive). Excellent double rooms (200 grn.) With conveniences, conditioners, minibars and so forth Cafe "Феличита" on the ground floor with very good kitchen (a crucian in cream with mushrooms – obedenie), a stylish sauna, parking in a court yard. Here we also lived in the first day. The second place in a rating receives minihotel "Pilgrim" *** (street B.Morskaja, 102/9; bodies: (0512) 50-04-92). Near to the centre, small and very cosy. The prices – from 200 grn. «The gold Pheasant» *** (street Navarinsky, 8 Also has very much liked; bodies: (0512) 35-18-93) near to the centre, but the price from 250 grn. For dablrum with a breakfast the overestimated has seemed some. As a last resort it is possible to choose "Ingul" ** (street Admiral's, 34; bodies: bodies: (0512) 35-55-57, 35-65-49). It is located successfully enough, but strongly gives sovkovostju and decent numbers begin from 245 grn. With a breakfast. The full list see in section "Hotels of Nikolaev and area".

On traces ellinov

So, after entrance to Ochakov we move on the main road. In one place it will turn under a right angle to the right. At the left very soon there will be a road service station. Basically, it is possible to leave the car there and then on paid parking and a mooring to reach by a taxi (especially it is recommended during a rain). Otherwise it is necessary to drive still directly to the fifth crossroads. A reference point – a little shop "Marina" (it seems so). Here we turn on the left and on Suvorov's street we move to a Y-shaped crossroads, on which again taki more to the left and downwards almost to the deadlock with a monument. On the right there will be shop "Seaside", and to the left of it the soil road begins and there is a sign «Cargo movement it is forbidden». To us here. We move through a private sector along a long fence rybzavoda against the stop, we will not get yet on waste ground. Here we turn to the right and we go on a first coat lengthways ellingov, yet we will not rest against the sea and a required mooring of 333-l.

In the summer from here daily at 14.00 leaves on Kinburn a trip boat (a fare 5 grn.), and during a high season – 6 times a day. There is a supervised parking (2 grn.). We need to address for the help to private traders who already have organised for a long time here transport business. Rent of a 10-seater ship costs 60 grn. One way, a high-speed boat – 70 grn., in as much estimate hour of idle time. And here on island Berezan (antique Borisfen) where there is a monument to lieutenant Schmidt and dig out the first in settlement Tavrii of ancient Greeks, road is not present – there now closed reserve. Tourists carry only contraband and for very big money. On bezrybe the owner «bases of torpedo boats» Leonid (8 (067) 795-2407) agrees to organise to us tryohchasovuju excursion to edge of the Kinburnsky plait for 120 grn. At easy excitement of the sea (is more exact, estuary) we go to a way.

The first, that we have seen, mooring to coast is there was a viper with the bull-calfe in a mouth, heated on the sun. To retire in its water our guides have forced only. They remained with spinnings in a boat, and we have gone on walk. A place simply fantastic. A narrow strip of the earth. On the one hand – solyonnoe Black sea, with another – fresh Dneprovsky estuary. Water differs even on colour. The infinite empty beaches which on the one hand have been filled up with a shell rock, and with another porosshie a rare osier-bed. The tip of a plait where the old barge rusts, is a reserved zone – huge colonies of birds here nest. It is possible to steal up to them of metres on 30-50. And further fresh water merges with sea, forming rough whirlpools. To enter into water in this place from estuary extremely dangerously. The acquaintance told, that once on his eyes here the whirlpool has dragged off in a chasm of the adult muzhik, rushed to rescue walking on an edge of water and two children who have failed in a whirlpool. Anybody has not come up … But gloomy thoughts here are not pertinent. Actually, here simply paradise for wild rest!

We leave to return sometime with the firm decision on a week and to use services of "the Abrupt talus». The Way back along estuary through Parutino where is ancient Olvija. Quality are expensive much worse, for transit Nikolaev-Ochakov to use I do not recommend. Indexes on Olviju are not present. Right after entrance from Ochakov there will be a fork (a reference point the-decorated little shop). To us more to the right on minor road which as a result will deduce to the T-shaped crossroads. Here again to the right and against the stop to reserve collars. Taking grivna for a parking, the security guard on an input sends us «to accounts department». The excursion bureau there is based. Basically, excursion costs 4 grn. From the person, but the terrible bookkeeper categorically declares, that less than 10 persons guides do not drive group, and, in general, already 16.00, in an hour the reserve is closed, and excursion lasts a minimum two and a half an hour. More shortly, we fly by on all parametres. Not long thinking, I go to library where guides sit, and directly I suggest them to earn 20 grn. For short hour private excursion. Having conferred, on honourable mission tyotenki in dark blue dressing gowns put forward from the numbers the most senior.

Eh, ancient Greeks were able to choose places for the policies. Kinds from spurs of Bugsky estuary in that place open simply magnificent! Have based Olviju Greek poselentsy in the beginning of VI century BC and it has existed almost one thousand years. It recollected in products Gerodot. In days of the greatest blossoming the city territory reached 55 hectares., and its necropolises of 500 hectares. (Now on their place, actually, also costs Parutino). Regular archaeological researches Olvii have begun in 1900 Fortunately, not local peasants had time to take away all stones on the sheds – archeologists have dug out the bases of many buildings and even the main altar. Only an amphitheatre cannot find in any way. Assume, that it after a landslip is based upon a bottom of estuary. The modest exposition of archeological finds is now exhibited at a small museum (the best exhibits store in Kiev). Also there is a whole heap of ceramic crocks directly open-air where any interested person can find a splinter of an ancient vessel to itself for memory.

To spend the night to Nikolaev we have returned with weight of impressions. It has appeared, that during our absence all hotels have been occupied (similar, there passed any big conference). It was necessary to remove enough expensive and not too comfortable junior suite in "Ingule". But it was only the beginning of adventures.

City of Ekaterina's glory

Hotel-restaurant complex "Ninel" (Belinsky's street, 22; bodies: (0552) 42-30-13; 42-43-5). It is located near to city centre. There is a restaurant, cafe-bar, 3 pools, 4 saunas, a supervised parking. All numbers have full forcemeat (200-250 grn. Depending on the area – from 17 sq. m to 35 sq.). Big hotel "Frigate" (Ushakov's avenue, 2; bodies: (0552) 28-00-03) – in due time was considered as the best, but since that old time has not changed almost. The main advantage – tsentrovoe an arrangement and a kind from all windows to Dnepr. Usual double for 184 grn. With strashnenkimi conveniences in any way do not answer our representations about comfort. To live it is possible only in lux, but for them demand to lay out 480 grn. « Brigantina »(street Patona, 4; bodies: (0552) 27-35-5) – practically the same, as"Frigate", including under the prices, but further from the centre, on island Quarantine. And"Meridian"(square Odessa, 4; bodies: (0552) 26-41-56, 28-22-06) is in general port hotel, there did not come at all. The full list see in"Hotel Hersonshchiny"section.

Have lodged in a result in "Frigate" and at once have gone on excursion, having armed with the miniguidebook from BigFish’а. The short quay where there is a well-known memorable sign in honour of construction of the first ship of the Black Sea Fleet linkora «Ekaterina's Glory», has appeared absolutely deserted and any thrown. Under Ushakov's prospectus (one of the most interesting monuments – an obelisk in the form of a sundial in honour of the English doctor John Howard who has rescued a city from a plague) through park of Lenin we have risen on street Rekopsky. Here there are shaft and gate of partially saved Kherson fortress (XVIII century) Defensive architecture representing a typical example in style of classicism. Hardly further on Rekopsky it is possible to see the Arsenal building, and also the Ekaterinensky cathedral with a belltower which settled down in fortress territory earlier. In a cathedral there is a tomb of prince Potyomkin Tavricheskogo based Kherson in 1778 and supervising development of all Northern Black Sea Coast. Further we have admired kinds of Dnepr from a viewing platform of park of Glory and on street of Kirov left on histories very picturesque and impregnated with spirit Suvorov's foot street. Right at the beginning it is possible to see Suvorov's memorable bust, and hardly further – a green two-storeyed small house where he lived.

Here it is possible to find a considerable quantity of decent cafes and small restaurants. Me restaurant "Tower" (Suvorov's street, 32 has seemed to the best; bodies: 26-55-50), but, unfortunately, the hall has been removed under a banquet, and on a summer platform towards evening to sit was already cool. However, the best place for a supper as has appeared, is not in the centre, and all in the same complex "Ninel" (Belinsky's street, 22). Very original restaurant with pool in the middle in which as speak, drunk clients earlier bathed, and only plastic swans (a platform with a pole, the truth, pushes on thought and on its other application) now float. And simply huge menu, only on which superficial studying leaves at least half an hour. And, on a question, that from this is available, the waitress is proud has answered: «All!». The kitchen too has not pumped up, that has very much pleased at the average price of the basic dish only in 10 grn.

Shine and poverty prichernomorskih resorts

And here located nearby Azure unexpectedly it was pleasant, despite the coastal line destroyed by last year's storm. On the contrary, the destroyed quay, the beaches filled in with waves which are sticking out in the sea portivosolnechnye canopies and electric columns give now to this place special romantic colour «zones of operations». But after all not only in beaches happiness! From Azure it is the most easier to get on reserved island Dzharylgach - one more excellent place for wild rest. Deer there are found, muflony and kosuli, and still there is the old beacon designed by the French engineer, concerning Tour d'Eiffel building. Despite the act of nature, the most proof boarding houses continue to function, receive visitors and to plan for a new resort season. The present oasis among all this ruin is boarding house "Commonwealth" (bodies: (05537) 30-591). Smartly organised and planted trees and shrubs territory over which the good expert in landscape design has obviously worked; a little more modest, but quite comfortable cottages with numbers of different categories (the price – from 110 to 250 grn. For double); three pools (one warmed up); a cosy bar, very nourishing food (full board) and many other things. On a beach bring up busikom in boarding house "Cannes" (street Quay, 2; bodies: (05537) 30-023) - one more place of "bourgeois" rest. In "Commonwealth" we also have decided to spend the night.

And before it have still called in in Iron Port. On a map from Azure to it, apparently, all kilometres 25, but road between them... Horror! From Naked Landing stage there to go unequivocally follows directly through CHulahovku and Behtery! The Iron Port, contrary to the industrial name, has appeared the most dynamically developing resort in this region. In small settlement we have counted, at least, five boarding houses ("Sea", "Wave", "Slavutich", etc.) Which even in appearance make impression very comfortable. And around all are under construction new and new! We have visited the most nice personally on purpose to communicate to the manager. For that moment a complex of "Prime minister" (pgt. Iron Port, street School, 8; bodies: (05539) 61-635) just revived after hibernation and was not ready to reception of visitors so with thought it was necessary to spend the night here to leave. But during a season having a rest the first class service and high level of comfort for rather modest money expects in him. Judge for yourself, during a high season a double room with new furniture, the TV, a balcony (from 20 to 35 sq.), with the big bathroom, ukomlektovanym modern santehnikoj, the conditioner, a refrigerator for 220 grn. A day with three meals a day for two. Lux costs 370. In territory – pool (free of charge) and a sauna (30 grn./hour). But we, unfortunately, had to come back in Azure.

«It was in steppes Hersonshchiny …», () Goblin

Have to begin with glanced in Berislav where, on my data, it was possible to find out ruins of a Turkish fortress, the wooden Cossack church brought here first poselentsami on rafts from Zaporozhye Sechi, and a memorable sign on a place of a communal grave of heroes of the Crimean war 1853-56 the Rests of fortifications to find simply – we call in in the centre where signs «Movement is forbidden», and through small park we leave on coast of Dnepr where there are everything that remains from fortification. In the end of XV century Turks have erected fortress Kyzykermen on this place, and in 1695 it the Ukrainian Cossack regiments within the limits of Peter I first campaign against the Crimean companions have seized. Since those times, apparently, the fortress practically was not saved. Similar, its rests in a consequence used as a basis for later coastal strengthenings, is possible Second World War times. The detailed information on this theme to me to find it was not possible. To search for church we have not gone – it on other end of a city, and the memorable sign in the form of a bell is well visible with dneprovskogo a spur near road service station.

On road to New Kakhovka have turned in with. Cheerful. It is called so far not casually – here in the end of XIX century time the prince Trubetsky has put in pawn the wine vaults and has started to grow up grapes on coast of Dnepr. Now Open Society «Of the Prince Trubetsky» (with. Cheerful, Sviridov's street, 3; bodies: (05546) 22-944) it is well-known for the wines «Oksamyt Ukraine» and «Perlyna stepu» (though personally I not the fan of these sour steppe wines). A present condition of winery much more depressing, than, for example, the majority of the Crimean. Basic production now – raw materials for several factories of sparkling wines. On the main checkpoint us again «have sent to accounts department», and there with pleasure have agreed to organise excursion for 50 grn. + on 10 grn. From the person for tasting also have started in cellars. Already it has then appeared, that the guide in holiday and to us have allocated the girl-technologist presented as «the young expert in excursions» which plainly could not tell anything neither about factory history, nor about technology of winemaking, but with all the heart poured from bochek. I, of course, needed to smell and try only on language.

And from sights of the Newest Kakhovka it is possible to allocate only the big park which has been stretched along all coast of Dnepr on the right party of the Dneprovsky prospectus on which we walked all the evening long. At the very beginning of it «New Kakhovka» (the avenue is located while unique hotel in a city in which it is possible to exist somehow. Dneprovsky, 20; bodies: (05549) 43-377). Have removed two-room lux for 150 grn., presence in a bathroom of a shower with a flowing water heater of type «Atmor» was which main advantage. Possibly, by the end of year in a city there will be much more comfortable place of time residing. At our visiting with might and main there were civil work in water club «Maxim Marine» (p-t. Dneprovsky 44а; bodies: (05549) 71-525, 45-579). Here there will be a small hotel, a bar with summer cafe, pool, a sauna and the big complex of water entertainments with hire of yachts, boats and hydrocycles (water walk across Dnepr can be reserved already now). While it is necessary to take care of a stomach only. Well to have a dinner it is possible at modern restaurant "Absolute" (street Bitter, 34а) around new buildings where to you will offer rich with exotic dishes of the menu (15 grn. The basic dish). For rest under bokalchik beer in the shadow of old trees it is possible to recommend cafe "Citadel" (the avenue. Dneprovsky, 28) in park to the left of a summer cinema (10 grn. The basic dish). And for a romantic supper it is better to choose cafe "Dnepr" all in the same park (8 grn. The basic dish). A summer platform very cosy, especially in the evening when small lamps are lighted. And the charming and unostentatious waiter who, appears has especially bribed, worked in Kiev earlier. He also has informed, that is fast in city centre, near department store, the new centre of leisure with a disco-bar, billiards and jazz club (will be called either "Pharaoh", or "Elite-clubs") will open.

And necessarily it is necessary to glance in the cosiest corner of New Kakhovka – «Kazkovu dibrovu», the unique centre of family rest. It is small children's park with a lake, set of wooden sculptures of fantastic heroes, a minizoo and cafe-bar for adults. Its local businessman who is, by the way, the author of all wooden sculptures has organised. An input paid (1,50 grn.), there is all near same cafe "Dnepr", near to park of attractions.

Not a newly ploughed virgin soil

General time of excursion makes about 5-6 hours. 3-4 from them you carry on Big Chapelsky podu (it is considered a unique corner in Europe tipchako-kovylnoj steppes to which the plough never concerned) in a pursuit of herds of wild animals. To some, differing quiet and good-natured customs, it is possible to approach closely, and on others, especially furious and unpredictable, it is necessary to look in field-glasses which have given out to us, from distance about semikilometer. Improbably fascinating safari turns out, and in advance never it is known, who will manage to be found and seen, and who is not present. Besides, the end of May – the best time for reserve visiting! We and have not seen especially violent flowering of a feather grass, but from steppe raznotravja every possible paints simply rjabit in eyes. In the summer the steppe burns out. Quantity of the kinds met by us in a habitat, at all did not count up. As follows it was not possible to make out only well-known kannu – the greatest antelope in the world from which askanievskim experts managed to receive milk! Speak, very curative.

Well, and those animals who did not manage to be seen in steppe, it is possible to consider easy then in a zoo, as well as separate kinds of the mountain artiodactyl. And in one place I at all did not meet such variety of birds more anywhere! And, peacocks absolutely freely loaf crowds directly on paths, are in the way, beg and periodically dismiss before each other tails, at all not hesitating of people – at them just the marriage period. The considerable part of territory is occupied with picturesque dendrology park with numerous artificial lakes and ponds in which trees and bushes of all climatic zones of the Earth grow, a pumping station-fortress, polovetskimi barrows and a fragment well-known Chumatsky shljaha. For arychnuju irrigating system dendroparka the Fold-fejn has received in due time a gold medal on a world's fair in Paris. Still, to create a blossoming garden exotic and, more often, hygrophilous plants in one and most droughty areas of Europe where otrodjas there were no trees!

And here with an infrastructure in Askanii you will not be dispersed. To steam of stalls with the soft drinks, two cafes nearby to the central input in park, unique noteworthy which point of the menu are pelmeni, and one old regional hotel, is proud called motel "Канна" (bodies: (05538) 61-337). To plan spending the night here I recommend to nobody, but for those who nevertheless is interested, short data: numbers without conveniences and improved, a shower on the ground floor. Double – 36 grn., improved – 64 grn. On the central input in park there is the brick box having vague palace outlines. It also was a palace. Not so long ago one of descendants of the former owner of these earths baron Edward Falts-Fejn nowadays living in Liechtenstein, has allocated 100 thousand dollars for restoration of old manor of the great ancestor and museum opening. The reserve management has considered, that the restoration building is not subject, and has decided it to take down, having constructed the new. To take down – have taken down, and even have expelled a new box, and further as it usually at us happens, money has ended. I doubt, that the Fold-fejn-junior will repeat the error …

The longest road to Crimea

The first 15 km have driven on betonke. At the left, along the Azov coast, a never-ending train the boarding houses which appearance beats off desire even follow to take an interest in conditions. The majority at all do not work or nedostroeny. In settlement Schastlivtsevo the owner of an under construction private cottage gives navodku – at once behind settlement, approximately through kilometre after the termination betonki, is to steam of good boarding houses with suites. On a question on passableness of road to Crimea looks at us as on madwomen, and allows "good advice" to be developed and go, as all decent people, through Jankoi. But we indecent! :) Here we maintain the first most powerful attack of mosquitoes, something vaguely reminded to me Pearl Harbor. Local have told, what is it the first day when they suddenly have in large quantities woken up after rains and it is sharp vzharivshego the sun. Thus, they somehow absolutely easy concerned crowds obleplivajushchih them from different directions insects while we swung hands as madwomen. It is good, that have found on local bazarchike ballonchik «Off».

Private boarding house "Express train" (item Schastlivtsevo, street Quay, 13; bodies: (05534) 26-096, (0562) 34-00-53) has surpassed all our expectations. It simply oasis in the middle of ruin and decline! Very well-groomed territory, gravelly paths, a huge beach, accurate cottages with numbers with the European-quality repair, all conveniences and hot water, the funny and affable owner. Though the boarding house was not ready yet to the season beginning (workers completed something, unpacked and unpacked), he has agreed to give to us for a lodging for the night lux for 100 grn. During a price season there fluctuate from 140 to 280 grn. For number (depending on comfort) with three meals a day in an excellent dining room with a bar. We for a supper had to come back in settlement where the portion of pelmeni under vodka in a cheap snack bar was perceived already as an exotic element. Just in case, has once again asked again the owner, whether it is possible to drive on Arabatke to Crimea. « It is possible », - he has answered with irony, sceptically glancing on ours"Karizmu". But we bezbashennye! :)

And for the morning we have appeared in the most fantastic place from everything, that it was possible to see for this trip. In last of the met villages Shooting zatarilis some products for a dinner (though and to have breakfast in boarding house as follows it was not possible – well still have found kipjatochek to dissolve pair of bags "MakKofe") and have gone deep into the wild nature. The road was all time soil, but not usual, but any strange. Whether a constant strong wind to that the reason, whether any feature of clay soil, but all it is cut up small bugorkami, similar to tiny dunes that does its very similar to a washing board. It is more 20 km/h to go in any way poluchalostsja, and sometimes it was necessary to dump and to five. And so almost all of 110 km. And only lizards rushed about from under the wheels, yes any gophers constantly stole a march. Both the feather grass sea, and wild flowers …

From history. Arabatka it was formed more recently, all a little hundreds years ago, as a result namyvanija sand from sea of Azov. The name has received from the Turkish Arabatsky fortress which ruins were still saved in the beginning of a plait from Crimea. There is also a black page. After in the forties from Crimea have moved Tatars, local authorities have suddenly found out, that have forgotten about several Tatar villages on Arabatke. And that Stalin has not learnt about such annoying miss, all inhabitants have shipped on barges, have taken out to the sea and have flooded … Now here extract salt from artificial lakes and natural gas by means of several towers which are visible in the sea from road. And in one place, in 4 km from Schastlivtsevo, near boarding house «Crimean atlas» from under the earth byot a hot source. Geologists searched for gas, and have found mineral vodichku in which now in the therapeutic purposes lap having a rest.

Any time on road at the left the thrown and not completed boarding houses periodically came across, they have then ended also. Suddenly in the middle of an empty plait there was the five-floor case covered with conditioners. Have thought, that any wild boarding house, but, having approached more close, have found out a huge shelter with ostriches! It has appeared, what is it an ostrich farm where they rush in tens if not in hundreds! Further hydrochloric lakes on the right have begun, and infinite absolutely empty beach at the left was stretched. People here have met twice. Wild tourists on bicycles, and then, on the middle of a plait At first have got, have found out an inhabited small house with the economic constructions, any old agricultural machinery and small herd of the cows which owners have unexpectedly appeared quite young men. However, we and have not stopped, that to them to communicate. A stop have made on a boundless beach to have a bite and sunbathe. The impression of the uttermost wildness and privacy spoilt only a large quantity of old plastic bottles in a grass which the sea generously casts ashore. What a pity, that we did not have with itself a tent. It would be possible to spend some carefree days in this remarkable place …

Instead of an epilogue

In total travel has occupied 15 days, run has made about 2600 km. There were for this time and some unpleasant conversations with DAI, and unsuccessful refuelling on "Lukoil", and gasoline has suddenly risen in price from 2.30 till 3.50. "Karizma" has passed the next test quite adequately, including arabatskuju «a washing board», severe betonku between Azure and Iron port and the road broken in fire wood from Ochakov along Bugsky estuary. The machine confidently stormed steep slopes, is tenacious kept for asphalt on very narrow streamers, waded mountain small rivers, climbed completely in a clay dirt and was roasted on the spring sun, not stating any displeasure. For what many thanks to the Japanese car industry. :)

Certainly, it was a pity to drive by CHatyrdaga with its Marble cave, not to reach on absolutely become limp footpath a youth Bath, not to get because of an amplifying rain in Chufut-Kale, hurrying home to lay aside the Stone tomb... As usually, everything, that wanted, could not see, but it only the occasion to think of new adventures.