Excursion in history: from Tripolja to Zmievyh shaft

The Tripolsky culture excited me since the childhood. Even it is difficult to present, that for pair thousand years to the Egyptian pyramids here on this earth, that underfoot, there lived the people which built huge cities-megacities, plavil metal, possessed unique technics of ceramics and never with anybody were not at war. Here have thought up a wheel, have learnt to grow up bread and have started to express words symbols. In history textbooks about it almost was nothing. Now some scientists assert, that tripoltsy were primogenitors of all civilisations evroazijskogo continent. The courageous statement. But it is pleasant to me! To be convinced of it it is possible during small excursion along Dnepr to the south from Kiev.

On Butts we move on Capital highway through I Will terminate-zaspu also Kozin. It more slowly, than on novoobuhovskoj to a line, but is more interesting. Sometime it will be the Ukrainian parkway Sanset, where continually – manors of celebrities. While here there is the rough cottage building, many hectares of wood are fenced off by fences, smart private residences and "modest" Finnish small houses are erected. Inhabited palaces of millionaires can be seen, having curtailed on a dam between Dnepr and Kozinkoj. Cost of sites here is estimated in figures with six zero. Though personally I have more to liking landscapes which open hardly further.

On entrance to Butts an outcome with the bridge. Here it is possible to turn on the left, aside Rzhishcheva. It is the shortest road on Tripole, however it conducts through industrial areas. It is more pleasant to drive up to the end obuhovskoj district and to curtail there under the index on Tripole. The road will pass in such places where simply pulls to stop off and take a view of very large open spaces with high kruchi. Somewhere here archeologist Vikenty Hvojka has found out hundred years ago the rests of a mysterious civilisation of hleborobov-builders. Now about it tell expositions at once two museums – state and private.

Moving on village on the main road, we get on a short dam in a picturesque place lengthways dneprovskogo a gulf. If to curtail in the end of a dam on the left, the very narrow path will deduce to a private museum «Ancient Aratta – Ukraine» (street Fishing, 1; bodies: (067) 466-51-62). In an exposition a considerable quantity of tools of work and tripolskoj ceramics with original lists. Here to you will show a half-hour film and will tell surprising history that tripolskaja the culture, or the state Aratta, has appeared before all known civilisations of the world (about 7 thousand years ago) and its echoes meet among the most various cultures. In particular, popular symbols of a swastika, the World tree, «in and jan» tripoltsy represented on the pots during those immemorial times. Subsequently ancestors of Ukrainians were ostensibly divided on two branches. One has gone to India to bear culture and a civilisation on the east, and another – on the West to master the Mediterranean. So there were basic centres of world development.

Main mesidzh – tripolskuju it is necessary to consider culture as a high-grade civilisation though the scientific world yet does not support this version. Historians argue for a long time already, whether was at tripoltsev the centralised state, and whether it is possible to consider as writing tripolskie pictogrammes. Anyway, mysterious letters on stones around the Stone tomb near Melitopol connect some with tripoltsami. If the theme has interested, there and then, in a museum, it is possible to get the corresponding literature.

The scientific point of view about «ancient Ukrainians» can be heard in the next archaeological museum if to drive little bit further on village (the index on the left is present). Mrachnovatoe the dark brown building of the cubic form also contains a quite good selection of bowls, vessels and ritual bowls - of "field-glasses". But fantastic hypotheses about an origin of all civilisations on the Earth from Aratty here do not put forward. Modestly inform on the most ancient agricultural culture professing a cult of the goddess-foremother. In a museum it is possible to buy interesting souvenirs – those ritual "field-glasses" or figures of bulls which were considered at tripoltsev as sacred animals.

The biggest riddle tripolskoj cultures there is a question why each 50-60 years people burnt the settlement and passed to other place to be under construction anew. Now such sites of ancient settlement-ashes find on all territory of Ukraine. In particular, excavation goes on suburb Rzhishcheva. This picturesque small town-port on Dnepr also has rich medieval history – here, on Ivan-grief, there was an Old Russian city, then the Lithuanian fortress. Unfortunately, beautiful kinds on dneprovskie kruchi from landing stage and a city beach on a gulf were saved only. In the centre the small park of a sculpture in tripolskom style is arranged. And as it would be healthy, if here reconstructed present tripolsky a city. Here it would be the sight! In territory it would be possible to organise open-air also an evident museum, and hotel in tripolskih dwellings, and restaurant...

And the truth, it would be advisable to be supported a little. Unfortunately, with a tourist infrastructure in these places not densely. At rzhishchevskoj it is possible to glance autostations in cafe over road. To glance it is possible, but here to have dinner... Unless in case of emergency. Other institutions in district and that are worse. However, in Tripole, at a gulf opposite to a museum, the attention a wooden construction with a signboard "Kolyba" draws, but this point of a public catering the second year cannot already open in any way. The equipped beach under Divich-mountain at which top in an antiquity there was a pagan sanctuary functions only, and now there come «on bow» wedding trains. And here admirers of study of local lore and «green tourism» can recommend private hotel "Звенигород" (Kagarlyksky r-n, with. Balyko-ShChuchenka, street Field, 22; bodies: (050) 444-68-79, (04473) 23-333) which is located among hills near to Dnepr. For 120 grn. It is possible to receive a double room (conveniences on a floor) and to take pleasure in quiet rest on the nature with bankoj, shish kebabs and a kind on dneprovskie kruchi. However, to a beach it is necessary to stamp minutes 15. But the owner offers interesting excursion routes on vicinities. Well, also it is impossible to ignore a new institution on the site of the Novoobuhovsky line overflowed with country restaurants which ideally corresponds to a travel theme. Expensive restaurant "Триполье" (27th kilometre, opposite to Blue lake; bodies: 585-5566) simply amazes with integrity of the design decision. All - from the form of the building and interiors to last saltcellar - reminds of an ancient civilisation. However, the menu is prosy enough, but who knows, can and vareniki too have invented tripoltsy...

From civilisation sources we come back to its present centre. Through Butts on Cornflowers, and further on the Odessa line to Kruglika. We turn off to lakes. On the bank of the biggest the rest complex "Kruglik" (bodies is located: (067) 727-1954) with loshadmi, fishing, a beach and primitive floating summer residences. In unpretentious summer cafe what we usually avoid, here prepare absolutely wrong (if to speak about an original compounding), but improbably tasty ljulja-kebab, let alone shish kebabs, a brynza and greens. Abrupt wheelbarrows on a parking say that not only we appreciate good kitchen even to the detriment of comfort.

But today us interests not only a dinner. It appears, some years successively we had a rest near to one more riddle of the Ukrainian history.

We reach till the end of the second pond in centre Kruglika where the main road leaves under a right angle on the left. And we turn to the right. The stony first coat goes along a dam, then passes through pine lesok and comes up in area Ivankovichej. Here it dissects a long embankment in height about the two-storeyed house which in this place is well visible in a cut.

It is the so-called Kruglikovsky strengthening entering into system well-known Zmievyh of the shaft. It appears, to the south from Kiev since the most ancient times there is a whole system of earthen defensive constructions in the general extent of 950 km! Defence was eshelonirovannoj – shaft form some parallel lines which cover Kiev huge horseshoes. For example, also were well saved in Hlepche over Stugnoj (it hardly further on the Odessa line). Similar objects meet and in other areas of Ukraine: around Kharkov, on Dnestr etc. the Information on them has some. Written sources of ancient times of "Great Russian wall» mysteriously hold back building.

The legend which narrates about how athlete Cyril Kozhemjaka has harnessed in a huge plough behaving outrageously in these places Zmija is extended. And this plough propahal round Kiev huge furrows. Exhausted with back-breaking toil and thirst Zmy began to drink water from small river and has died is a classical ending of medieval histories about dragons which meets in folklore of many nations of the world (we will recollect at least circumstances of premature demise of Krakow monster Smoki).

Legends legends, but about origin Zmievyh of shaft till now plainly it is not known. The classical version says, that they were constructed by Old Russian princes in IX-Х centuries for protection of southern boundaries of Russia from pechenegov and polovtsev. However some of them date II in BC! In particular, Kruglikovsky strengthening is a site of ancient settlement of Scythian times, i.e. the early Iron Age. Most likely, erected them during different epoch stage by stage, including earlier embankments in new defensive systems. Probably, used work of thousand captured nomads – from here and a legend about harnessed Zmie.

For durability shaft are reinforced by oak logs. On top there passed a wooden paling. Deep ditches have been in parallel laid. I represent, what problem they were for a cavalry of nomads – to get on shaft top uneasy and now. But costs. At least to estimate titanic work of our ancestors and degree of organisation of their society. After all for such grandiose building the powerful political will of the leader, deep engineering knowledge of builders, serious management was necessary. All it inspires the big respect.

Including to the country, whose history is full of such unsolved secrets. To touch them it is very simple – all some hours of driving. The main thing the nobility as where to search.