«Pototsky kingdom»: Uman, Tulchin, etc.

To visit all places of Ukraine connected with well-known it come from land owners Pototskys, it is necessary to go round the half-countries. Numerous descendants nice Polish voevod posessed extensive possession on Ternopolshchine, Vinnichine, CHerkasshchine, manors in Crimea, Lvov, Odessa. Everywhere they built smart palaces, pawned magnificent parks, based monasteries and temples. And even the whole cities. The same Ivano-Frankovsk «in girlhood» was Stanislav – the founder from Pototsky's sort has named it of the son. However more than others other Stanislav – that Stanislav-Felix has become famous in Ukraine. The traitor in native Poland, the vassal-deserter in Russian empire, for Ukraine it became not only the progressive reformer, first "oligarch", the fan of luxury and beautiful women, but also the founder, probably, the most remarkable samples of palace and park art in country territory.

Who did not hear about umanskom park "Софиевка"? At us it was one of the first travel when it was necessary to save on everything, and it was possible to dream of own means of transportation only. Since then happened in Umani repeatedly. Time impressions has come to share.

The road from Kiev lays through White Church – an ancestral lands of counts Branitsky which were old friends and Pototsky's neighbours. Fortress JUrev was based here almost one thousand years ago by Kiev prince Yaroslav Mudryj, but even ruins of that church to which colour of walls the modern city is obliged by the name since then were not saved. But Branitsky have left an appreciable trace in history and architecture. A winter palace (1796), John Krestitelja's church (1812), the Preobrazhenskiy cathedral (1838), trading numbers (1809-14) – all this heritage of a count sort. Including landscape park "Alexandria" which was presented to wife Alexander by the first owner of estate Frantishek-Ksavery Branitsky. Many consider its as one of the best in Ukraine though personally it seems to me that it is allocated unless relative uhozhennostju, and promotion is obliged by convenience of an arrangement on the Odessa line near to Kiev.

After White I recommend to make one more stop, having curtailed with a line to the right around the Sharp Tomb and having reached one of several routes to Parhomovki. Surprising not slavic architecture the Pokrovsk church (1903-06) amazes with monumental mosaics under Nikolay Roerich's sketches. The sight of "its" Christ simply bewitches. About it I wrote in one of the previous reports.

At last, for 20 km to Umani, we turn off on the left under the index on Mankovku. The decent road on quality results in Talnoe. The village once was a nursery Cossack volnodumija on the Polish earths and generously delivered soldiers to armies «resistance movement». Problems with Cossacks periodically arose at Kalinovsky, then at new proprietors Pototskys while that Stanislav-Felix has not thought up new monetary system of the taxation in 1795. Liberalisation of relations with sirs so was pleasant talnovtsam, that inherited manor Naryshkiny and SHuvalovy to a steel in the people cult figures. Probably, thanks to it in city park palace SHuvalovyh (1896-1903) was saved In which architecture the school of the Renaissance and style of the French hunting locks is well felt. To find it it is uneasy. At local it is better to ask road not to a palace, and to a museum – in territory at the Soviet power the Museum hlebopashestva (one of tripolskih settlements is nearby dug out) functioned. Lately the building has strongly decayed, the park has turned to a wood thicket, on a lawn have arranged a football ground. But there were patrimonial arms on a facade and tombs SHuvalovyh behind. Restoration has more recently begun. Terms of "object delivery» builders to name not undertake, but there is a hope of revival.

In Talnom, in Troitsk church (1846) Sofia Pototsky is buried – one of the most brilliant ladies of Europe XIX century the Turkish Greek woman «with the dark past» (as it is told in a curriculum vitae) has managed to bewitch the beauty and mind of the Polish ambassador in Turkey, has got with it in Kamenets-Podolsk, and then, already as the wife kamenetskogo commandant Juzefa Vitta, has gone to Europe. It has had time to be noted in the best salons of many European capitals, to meet several kings, it has not appeared yet in southern areas of Russia among favourites of prince Potyomkin-Taurian. Have found each other two loneliness. The tandem of the most brilliant adventurers of time made grandiose plans for a joint life, up to creation of own Taurian state with capital in Nikolaev while about them empress Catherine II has not heard. The prince has quickly died in JAssah, and near Sofia here as here there was Stanislav Pototsky (too married, by the way). Near Ochakov their rough novel which has lasted with love, scandals and changes till the end of a life has begun.

Through Legedzino and Dobrovody it is taxied to Uman. The central part of small town, despite relentless progress, continues to store proof provincial charm. Here many low one-storeyed small houses with a geranium on window sills, ancient trading numbers in the market, restavrirovannye churches and churches. The main road deduces to road service station and a new input in park where there is a big parking, cafe and shop with flower sprouts – the city is famous as the centre of the Ukrainian gardening. But we pass by and we turn on a circular outcome on the left under indexes on hotel "Софиевка". It have erected at an old input in park to the basis 200 anniversary. As a matter of fact, this one of the best in a city of places for spending the night with a kind on magnificent umanskie landscapes. We park nearby to an input (5 grn. For all the day), we go on excursion (an input – 6 grn.).

Here it is a gift on birthday liked! This the first, that occurs, when it appear in the centre of creation of Polish military engineer Mettselja. Here Sofia at last could feel the present queen. Here we can admire with talent of landscape designers of XVIII century.

If you plan to drop in to Uman on hour or so – does not leave! The huge landscape park has to romantic and thoughtful walk on all the day. During different seasons it is interesting in own way: bright in the blossoming spring, shady in the stuffy summer, sad a mellow autumn, mysterious in the snow winter. The main thing not to get in the summer on target, and that impressions can spoil making a din crowds of schoolboys from all country. I will not list at all all numerous objects of park architecture – the professional guide will tell about history of their creation much more in detail if it is not a pity to lay out 100 grn. For excursion (it is possible and to bargain if excursion only for two). To buy on an input the guidebook more cheaply and to be guided on a map. The bottom pond with a fountain from a pharynx of a snake, the Big falls, the Valley of giants, a grotto of Venus, the Amsterdam sluice and Love island on a huge Top pond … it is necessary to make small romantic water walk by a ship and to sweep by a boat on underground small river Stiks – both pleasures on 5 grn. It is a pity that to have a bite in territory it is possible unless doubtful hot dog with an instant coffee in a plastic glass.

Except park, Uman it is well-known for the whole world as one of the main centres hasidizma – an orthodox branch of a Judaism. Here, behind a typical high-rise building on Pushkin's street, the founder of Breslovsky Chassidic movement tsadik Rabbi Nahman is buried. The place is considered it at Chassids sacred, access is rigidly regulated. Every September Uman is flooded with thousand pilgrims in long clothes, wide-brimmed hats and with characteristic side curls. Neighbouring streets are filled with Near-Eastern colour. The militia helps to watch observance of strict religious rules, warning casual tourists «about danger» to be the misunderstood believers who have come on worship. Empty seats in hotels to find it is unreal even in spite of the fact that Chassids have specially opened for coreligionists hotel «SHaarej Zion» with kosher restaurant. So the trip to Uman with spending the night on second half of September is better be not to planning.

Service. The best lodging for the night hotel "Софиевка" (offers street Garden, 53; bodies: (04744) 33-527) on a hill opposite to a front entrance in park. The successful arrangement is added by an exposition of an ancient park sculpture in a winter garden of a hall. Decent numbers here begin from 280 grn., but it is possible to lodge in Spartan conditions and for 100 grn. For two. Good alternative can be "Fortetsja" (street Chapaeva, 52; bodies: (04744) 50-041) in an ancient building of a water-mill on coast Umanki. Not in the centre, but for a comfortable double room ask only 180 grn. Here there is a sauna and restaurant with a summer platform over vodichkoj.

The same excellent application to a building of other old mill have found in the next village Pikovets (from an opposite side of the Odessa line). Restaurant "Млын" (bodies: (084744) 52-634) pleases not only a sound Ukrainian cuisine, but also magnificent registration of summer platforms – with careful stylisation, successful use of original elements of ancient architecture and a landscape. If there is no desire to go for a city, evening can be spent in picturesque "Kadubke" (street Soviet, 7; bodies: (04744) 59-016) in the centre. The "creative" kitchen here amuses visitors «rural fjuzhinom» with registration of all dishes in the form of amusing mugs. The prices at 20-25 grn. For a portion of meat in both institutions hardly will seem to the capital inhabitant too high.

In small pavilonchike in territory "Sofievki" recently have opened Pototsky's modest museum which basis of an exposition is made by archival documents and family portraits. Tourists are met by wax figures of a count couple. And on the centre there is a breadboard model of a palace of Pototskys amazing with grandiosity in Tulchin, that in 70 km on the West. There there was their basic residence. There we will go further.

The big outcome at once for Umanju, a direction to Vinnitsa. Average quality highway М-12 results in Nemirov. As is known, here make the most well-known stamp in the world Ukrainian gorilki (many Russians on a question on the best Russian vodka on simplicity sincere name often Nemiroff). With bjudzhetoobrazujushchim the enterprise which elegant cases are evident from a line, to a place has obviously carried. Roads are repaired, churches restore, it is few displays of characteristic poverty for the Ukrainian remote places. On an entrance to the centre it is noticed the big building of one of the power stations first in Ukraine (XIX-XX centuries). To use it directly, I think, already there is no either possibilities, or a necessity though during Soviet times similar minihydroelectric power stations appreciably provided with energy rural areas. Now here roadside the motel with restaurant simply arises.

Having gone round a quarter round department store on small streets with an one-way traffic, we get to the central input to sanatorium "Avant-guard". Pototsky's this one more former manor. The very first palace of XVIII century has not lived up to now. On its place princess Maria ShCherbatova from Pototsky's sort has built up a new building in 1885-1917, to be in which to it and it was not possible vsvjazi with burst revolution. However the princess here remember – its portrait decorates hall interiors, and in corridors it is possible to meet pictures from its personal gallery. From terraces kinds on slightly started park which is time for thinning out for a long time open. However, while over sanatorium trade unions supervise, hardly it is necessary to expect a putting in order main nemirovskoj sight.

If to drive hardly further towards Vinnitsa, we will get in Voronovitsu, where the impressive three-storyed building of manor of landowners Groholsky (1780) in strict forms of classicism was saved. In premises the Museum of history of aircraft now takes places – last owner of a manor the captain of the first rank Alexander Mozhajsky has been passionately keen on ideas of aeronautics and has constructed here the first in Russia (and some speak, as in the world) the plane-monoplane which has come off the earth near Petersburg in 1882 However, we have distracted from the basic subjects of our travel.

From Nemirov it is turned off to Mogilyov-Podolsk. Soon the road goes down by a stone fencing of Sokoletsky park to a channel of Southern Bug. The next water-mill (1899), this time strongly destroyed. Water with a roar falls downwards from a dam by for a long time not rotating wooden wheel. The rests of a many-storeyed building of a creamery amaze with grace. Improbably, as a lot of attention gave in the last centuries to an aesthetics of the usual industrial enterprises. And the place for factory is chosen the smart. The fastest site of Southern Bug with the cascade of the picturesque thresholds formed during immemorial times by receding glaciers, uses the big popularity at fans of an alloy on rafts on the mountain rivers. The motel here will not turn out - a line absolutely not not recovered. But base of rest with rafting it would be possible to arrange the excellent.

The rock over pojmoj is topped by wooden church of Christmas of the Virgin (1764). Once on this place there was a lock of Moldavian prince Georgja Duki which in XVII century has been for a short while proclaimed by the Turkish authorities the governor of Right-bank Ukraine. From the lock there were only shaft, trenches and holes, possibly, designating places of archaeological researches. After all the place it has been chosen by people in an extreme antiquity. Probably, the name of local village Pechera has arisen still in those days when people did not build dwelling, and dug out and hollowed out in rocky spurs. From a panorama of a river valley from height zamkovoj mountains are grasped simply by spirit! It is necessary to arrange a halt, having combined contemplation with a reinforcement of forces grasped with itself harchami – with a public catering in these places the big problems.

On snack – the big park of deserted sanatorium on a place of manor Podolsk voevody Svejkovsky is more subcentral villages. Here we have called in to look at Pototskys-Svejkovskih tomb of job of well-known Kiev architect Gorodetsky. Expected to see the modest mausoleum, and have appeared before an impressive and graceful building in the form of a church, constructed in popular then pseudo-Romance style. The condition of the monument, especially forged entrance gate, leaves much to be desired. It is a pity, as inside to get was not possible. To find those who owns keys from numerous half-forgotten Ukrainian sights, it always the big problem.

At last, we drive to Tulchin. It is difficult to present, that once it was one of the centres of a political life of the Eastern Europe. Provincial small town concerning young – only 400 years. Was polsko-Lithuanian fortress nestervar, then, after the short period of freedom, has got together with others bratslavskimi the earths to magnates Pototsky. While in 1775 there was no here the young Stanislav-Felix who has received the enormous inheritance on Galichina and Bratslavshchine from the father – Kiev voevody Frantisheka-Salezija Pototsky. Here an arrogant nobleman decides suit capital of the of "Podolsk kingdom». Is under construction with taste and scope. Invites known French architect Lakrua and puts a problem to create in a remote place new Versailles. However, grandiose baroque in common decide to refuse in favour of more progressive classicism. Interiors are made out by fashionable Dutch designer Merks (nothing this surname reminds?) . The result partly can estimate and now everyone who to dare to call in in these remote places.

The kind on a two-storeyed palace opens from the former church of a Dominican monastery (1780) With a yellow dome before which stone field marshal Suvorov (here it waves a cocked hat has written the «the Science to win»). A short small street, and before us something grandiose! Comparison with Versailles comes to mind simply by will. The central building with a colonnade of the huge scales, two wings not conceding on the size on each side, the big bed between them. Here there passed magnificent balls with participation of prince Potyomkin and Polish king Stanislav-August, Pushkin walked on park, well and spent long winter evenings Stanislav with the loved Sofia. Now tulchane weddings walk here, in ballrooms discos rattle. But it on days off. And in general, the building is in conducting Technical school of culture, in the main case perfect skill rural talents. The watchwoman on an input agrees to let in not at once tourists – shows the small power that have properly asked. Tells, that restoration have begun at the Soviet power, yes and have stopped on half – magnificence of a facade is "shaded" by heaps of bricks on corners. Only on one of wings it is still possible to see Pototsky's patrimonial arms with a board, a knightly armour and the weapon.

Ahead still half-day, it is necessary to specify plans. If it was possible to afford two more spending the night, would go further towards the Moldavian border to look ruins of locks in Bush and Ozarintsah, and then to spend the night in Mogilyov-Podolsk. However, we needed to be see you in the evening in Vinnitsa that to a dinner of next day to have time to return to Kiev. Would be most optimum to go in SHargorod (the most ancient synagogue, a defensive Nikolaev monastery), then in Brailov (the Troitsk monastery, a palace) and, at last, to Vinnitsa. We have decided to reach to Murovanyh Kurilovtsev. The choice has appeared unsuccessful. It was necessary to overcome 100 km more than two hours on, places, to the most disgusting roads. On road have dropped in in Kotjuzhany to look at manor of XIX century About the one who posessed an estate earlier, the guidebook held back. Could not answer this question and present owners – pupils of children's home. «Whose house was"?" The sir ». Clearly. But have shown bannyj the case where took baths"pani". Have strongly regretted, that have not grasped with itself a box of any sweets, toys or books. Though any help. Who visited children's homes, that never will forget these children's eyes …

In Murovanyh Kurilovtsah conditions are more cheerful – there simply boarding school. The big two-storeyed palace of the landowner of the Mosquito (1805) is constructed by Irish architect Makklerom in classical forms, but very unusually located on the strengthened place highly over small river. As a basis the building was served by defensive stone walls and earthen shaft of XVI century Speak, inside there are gloomy casemates and an arsenal. The rests murov also are switched successfully on in later buildings of a complex of economic constructions. It is a pity, that park which has strongly expanded for a century does not allow to estimate kinds on neighbouring hills and a valley proceeding deeply below ZHvana.

To Brailova have reached only towards evening. It is last point of our route connected with a name of Pototskys. Were Bragirov (a place of a confluence of small river of Home-made beer in the Ditch) it has appeared in possession of magnates doubtful enough by. Pototskys here did not live, but actively cared of spirituality of local residents. Under their initiative in 1740 the award monastery trinitariev, transformed then in orthodox Piously-Troitsk has been based. And in musical circles Brailov the background of Mecca with composer Peter Tchaikovsky is known for mysterious "virtual" communication of the following proprietress of a manor of Hope. In a current of 13 years they communicated only on correspondence, Tchaikovsky happened in a manor three times, has written here weight of products, but always in absence of owners. It did not prevent to live to it on the maintenance a background of Mecca which generously sponsored creativity of the idol. We could not get to Tchaikovsky museum because of late time and examined an impressive two-storeyed palace (XIX century) only outside already in twilight.

It is necessary to add, that spending the night in Vinnitsa has appeared not the most successful. The main hotel of a city "Podolia" with three stars «on epaulets» has appeared very mediocre, but to search for other variants there were no forces. The detailed description of Vinnitsa sights can be found in one more of the previous reports.

Service. The big city abounds with hotels with different level of service and the prices. In respectable "Burzhue" (the lane Clear, 12; bodies: (0432) 27-95-90) it is a little numbers, but all first class (400-500 grn.) . The basic place in a complex with a casino and a sauna occupies restaurant with expensive interiors, good kitchen, piano music, but not always qualitative service. Tryohzvyozdochnyj hotel "Podolia" (Pushkin's street, 4; bodies: (0432 32-75-96) in the centre meets a beautiful hall, but sovok service (each visitor should show the passport) and numbers in which repair is spent purely nominally (old the sanitary technician, a shower without shtorki). Optimum conditions – in ordinary-looking by sight to hotel "Жовтнева" (street Pirogova, 2; bodies: (0432 32-65-40) in a business part of a city where the double room with good repair will manage in 200 grn. Many kievljane specially come on a weekend to country "Versailles" (street Tyvrovsky highway, 2; bodies: 27-37-13) with a sauna, pool and the big restaurant on 4 halls in style of medieval castles. And in a city vividly and democratically enough it is possible to have supper in «Maklaud a pub» (street Sverdlova, 3а) where to meat on coals submit 11 kinds of beer on draught, and on days off the live saxophone sounds

On road to Kiev next day have visited at last on ruins Vervolfa. Blocks of ferro-concrete sticking out of the earth really impress. To difficultly itself to present, what force there should be an explosion that vyvorotit and to tear apart in shreds these enormous monoliths, having rejected tolstennuju a roof on ten metres aside. Have traditionally dropped in to Berdichev to show to friends travelling with us a tremendous defensive Karmelitsky monastery (XVI century) with the Mariinsky church where restoration already comes to an end. Barbarians (1759-81) on Charles Libknehta's street where in 1860 Balzac got married countess Evelinoj Gansky Onore de have found out also modest in appearance a church Sacred. The old Jewish small town has seemed this time very cosy.

Well, the trip has appeared improbably sated even for us. Not all in it has developed ideally, but, I hope, it will not beat off desire at our new fellow travellers and further to master Native land open spaces. At us it only gets stronger.