Campaign on Bessarabku: Belgorod-Dnestrovsky, Vilkovo, Izmail

Strange this sensation – to travel on a back sofa of the car. You feel comfortably, easy you stare on the parties, you sleep, when it is boring. But here the control over a situation strongly does not suffice. To a two-day trip across the Ukrainian Bessarabia have gone by the car of the friends checked up by joint travel – Seryogi and JUlki to which too sometimes would like "porulit". They have received experience of overcoming of road difficulties rich – both to the driver, and sports "Honde" it was necessary is unsweetened on some minor roads of the Odessa area. However, even the most fascinating travel without difficulties seldom happens remembered.

The line Kiev-Odessa is on Saturday morning rather free not only thanks to early time. The majority of travellers had time to leave in a southern direction on Thursday – the Constitution day has presented the sufferer at once four days off in the middle of summer. Accordingly, places in decent and accessible hotels of Odessa and Zatoki are disassembled for a month. The control proring has not given results. So the accurate plan at us is not present this time, we decide to operate on circumstances. Without adventures it is overcome the Odessa line, including last 70-kilometre site of repair, and it is turned off on district on Zatoku. The traffic is gradually condensed.

The large resort on a sandy Budaksky plait rages "otdyhatelnoj" a life. The narrow road forced by cars parked anyhow, is hammered by counter streams of transport. Between cars the ill-matched crowd of the weakened people in bathing suits – who in smart hotel, who in wooden hibarku, that there and then behind a fence slowly exudes. Surprises presence of announcements of free rooms, but the majority of them, apparently, have simply forgotten to clean. Our purpose – solid base of rest "Solar" at the very end of small town. To stop we are not going to – and it is expensive, and places all the same are not present. Simply it would be desirable to have dinner in a decent place under surf noise. It seems, the personnel for two years at last has learnt to work. Service fast and pleasant, the kitchen too has not pumped up, only the prices impressing even for kievljan.

Having defended in a stopper, we taxi aside Belgorod-Dnestrovskogo and soon we get to silent provincial small town on the bank of Dnestrovsky estuary. This picturesque cape was chosen 2,5 thousand years ago by colonists from the Greek Miletus. Have brought here a civilisation, culture and grapes. Have made friends with peace Scythians, but before aggressive gotami have not resisted. Excavation of an antique city especially does not impress. The historical heritage of subsequent times – a terrible Akkermansky fortress is much more interesting. The citadel was erected in 1261 by ubiquitous genoeses, powerful walls were attached to it after two centuries by Moldavians, and got accustomed name was given already by Turks. Brick "pipe" in territory is a minaret of a mosque.

Here we have got to the present circulation of events. On the approach were surprised to quantity of militia and deafening uhanju powerful acoustic installation. It has appeared, in the evening musical festival "Фортеця" here should take place – organizers just adjusted equipment, and long-haired guys in a skin were kneaded before a concert the hard fate. Under organic accompaniment of heavy music in a fortress during same time there passed tournament on historical fencing «Steel league» in which case from visitors collected on 20 grn. For an input. We with pleasure have observed, how adults djadki in iron "harness" thresh each other swords and axes against ancient walls. Fights look effectively, but too quickly come to an end – bams, and all. At all as at cinema.

And the cinema too was. From the sea already there were guns and catapults, the Odessa cadets took positions in a uniform of XVII century on walls, on camp of cinema-men on a mooring oshivalsja personally Michael Bojarsky. There were shootings next "mushketyorskogo" George Jungvald-Hilkevicha's film «Returning of musketeers, or Treasures of cardinal Mazarini». The Akkermansky fortress, obviously, played a role any Lja-Rosheli. Which, we learn in a year when the five-million picture leaves on screens.

From international line М-15 it is turned off on Vilkovo. Put in nizkoprofilnuju rubber "Hondu" aloud shakes on the concrete plates covered with asphalt, but danger to hurt beautiful cast disks while is not present. Pamjatuja about an uncomfortable lodging for the night, we decide to look good luck in Seaside – many laudatory responses about local base of rest "Merkury" (bodies: (067) 489-7858). The poster with the resort scheme at first is not noticed and turned on the asphalted road on the left. In the heart of narrow journey it is visible beautiful wooden cottages. It? No. The saleswoman from a stall explains, what is it base of local "captain" – directors of a creamery. It is now closed. On "Merkury" it is necessary to go on a bumpy first coat to an opposite side. Svezheotremontirovannaja the base plentifully sheathed plastic vagonkoj, is favourably allocated against rather dirty neglect of a resort. Small houses stand directly on a beach. Through open doors of separate inputs it is visible decent furniture in numbers with all conveniences. Unpretentious cafe-restaurant with a view of the sea. Judging by cars and children, the middle class has a rest exhausted by a pursuit of well-being. To us the price in 300 grn. For two places has seemed a little overestimated, and rooms free have not appeared. We go further.

Vilkovo has strongly changed for last 5 years. Even not outwardly, and internally. It is more than movement, it is more than life. People seem more nice, is more cheerful and privetlivee. We settle in brand new hotel "Venice" (Lenin's street, 19а; bodies: (04843) 31-374). For 250 grn. Here offer smart four-seater lux with the conditioner, for 120 – a clean double room with comfortable conveniences on a floor. Hotel restaurant "Lagoon" seems to the most decent in a city, but at the cook the day off – to have to search for livelihoods in the next noisy institution diskotechnogo type. Strange, but well-known uhi and eels in the menu are not present. On the other hand, at restaurant of any Cherkassk district too you will not meet varenikov and house sausage. It is all and at home to eat it is possible. But very much the Danube herring was pleasant. It appears, the fresh herring can be cooked and fried!

The supper was tightened, so on a mooring next day we have appeared in very late morning. Here we are welcomed a cross by a monument to the first vilkovskomu poselentsu-lipovaninu. Lipovane are conservatives, followers of the doctrine of metropolitan Phillip ("pilipony" – "lipovane"). Under other version, Old Believers simply liked to hide under lindens. All has begun in XVII century when Russian tsar Alexey Mihajlovich has decided to spend church modernisation. But traditions were too strong – thousand believers have refused to accept troeperstie and other changes in ceremonies. "Dissenters" executed, suppurated on penal servitude. Rescued from bondage ran in the sparsely populated earths of the adjacent countries. The big community has settled on both coast of delta (plug) of Danube. So has arisen closed and unsociable Vilkovo. Speak, old men until recently not to be profaned, threw out ware from which treated strangers.

Now tourists here desired and expensive visitors. Even the expensive. The Girl-turmenedzher, a professional sight having estimated our wheelbarrow, has requested for excursion to «Zero kilometre» (a place of a confluence of Danube to Black sea) whole 500 grn. Before it on a market to us have offered the smoked eel for 200. People, схаменіться!

We leave from turzony deep into small town, where a monument to "the sober fisherman» and the main bridge through «vilkovsky the Grand Channel» – Belgorod. Here both the people are easier, and it is more humane than the price – 150 grn. For hour excursion. We take places in classical vilkovskoj to a boat – krutonosoj, flowed round and very stable as them do here since Cossack times. To the sea after all on them go! Production of a local shipyard our "captain" has estimated in one thousand dollars. Has bent, of course, fairly. Probably, it would be desirable it not to strike in a dirt the person before capital visitors. Yes we and so in full delight! After all anywhere it is more in Ukraine you will not meet such "water" city, where streets-channels, sidewalks-layings, transports-boats, and even special PDD. However, sober «for a wheel» usually have not a seat. There are also "reckless drivers" – with fountains of splashes vilkovchane rush to sandy open-cast mine, where at them a traditional resort zone. The city celebrates Day of Danube!

We ask to bring in plavni where have just blossomed kuvshinkovye "fields". Fussy water chickens, and the important grey herons, and even touch also goggle-eyed zhabki on leaves, and herd of cows on berezhku. It appears, they here too natatorial! On coast – continuous vineyards. Except traditional fishing, vilkovchane are engaged in manufacture huge quantity of easy red wine of a local grade "Novak". Amusing drink we get on road to one of usual houses. Also you will not tell, that in an old city, this house, as well as the majority is made of a cane and fat Danube silt. In its tons remove on spring from channels-erikov. Coast strengthen than it is necessary – slate, a tree, iron. But the best and beautiful fixture – a hardy willow and a waterproof acacia.

Uhi on island of conservatives Ankudinovom to us to try and it was not possible – time drew in. We go along Danube to Izmail. Road broken, we go slowly. On the one hand a barbed wire – border with Romania. With another – plavni, canes and strange birds.

It is a little having strayed on the streets Kilii combined from concrete plates, we get to nice Izmail – a city---hero. Storm of a local Turkish fortress, mainly forces of the Ukrainian Cossacks-chernomortsev, has glorified military talent of Russian commander Alexander Suvorov in centuries. In the central square, near the Pokrovsk cathedral (1822-36) Suspiciously similar on Kazan in Petersburg, bronze Suvorov on a game shows to visitors the fashionable cocked hat. The rests of the Turkish strengthenings characterised by contemporaries as «a fortress without weak places», we go to search at the sea, where now for a city beach. It is a little rests – on conditions of the Parisian contract of 1856 stone bastions have been blown up, shaft are razed, ditches are dug. Having got on territory through the rests of Kilijsky gate, we walk by two ancient churches over very tall breakage, admiring a panorama of very large Danube. Directly over a beach the mosque dome is seen is the unique saved construction of the Turkish period. The diopama «Storm of Izmail» is inside arranged. Probably, rather late we have approached, – gate are already closed. Here and a notch on the future.

In general, the old undersized centre of Izmail has made pleasant impression. Along Suvorov's central prospectus the cosy park with fountains and summer cafes here lasts. In most decent of them, under a signboard "Oasis", we also had dinner. I will add what to spend the night in a city of all for 130 grn. For double it is possible in motel "Green a hall" (Suvorov's avenue, 374; bodies: (04841) 52-839) on entrance to a city, or in minihotel "gostinyj a court yard" (street Bendery, 41; bodies: (04841) 20-490) – in the centre and is little bit more expensive. Old Soviet hotel "Izmail" (Suvorov's avenue, 54; bodies: (04841) 24-187) I do not recommend – numbers for 170 grn. Here very much strashnenkie, and lux the expensive.

On departure from a city at Sergey phone has rung out. Coming back at this time from Zatoki friends have informed it on a stopper lasting many hours on a repaired 70-kilometre site of the Odessa line. Having analysed a map, we dare at a risky detour along the Moldavian border.

Some kilometres of Moldova, the bridge through Dnestr, we turn on Beljaevku. Road tolerant already before turn which, judging by a map, should deduce through Joyful directly on the Odessa line. Darkens, quality of a covering very narrow prosyolka worsens. In the next dark village it is found out from muzhiks that we are in certain Petrovsky, that we should return hardly back and to go 20 km on «the rolled first coat». «What first coat!? - Sergey, - At me low planting» is terrified! «No trouble, - speak, - in general 60 kilometres Directly will turn out, and the car will kill». It was necessary to obey. 60 not 60, but fifty there was such, that Sergey at last has understood – impassability happens better, than road. On a line have got out more close to 11 o'clock in the evening. To go round a stopper, apparently, and it was not possible – have appeared somewhere at it at the tail-end. As it is good, that in advance have planned a lodging for the night under Umanju.

In village Kochubeevka we have got to paradise. The travellers exhausted with road the small wooden complex of rest "Summer residence" (has sincerely met Lenin's street, 1; bodies: (067) 502-0469) with extremely lovely and careful personnel. Around the uttermost pastoral: hills, the big lake, a wood grove, rural hatki in the distance. The restaurant deserves the highest praises both for an interior, and for kitchen. Three comfortable hotel rooms in different styles are decorated with the big taste and arranged by exclusive furniture. In the complete set to it is a sauna, Russian bath, summer verandahs, the Alpine garden, chaise lounges and fishing. And all this happiness – on 180 grn. For a two with a breakfast! The wave relaksa has covered with a head. What a pity, that tomorrow since morning – on job. No, it is impossible to stop here in transit. It will be necessary to go easy on target that it was not necessary to hurry sutra on job for 200 km.

Even doubted, whether to publish contacts of this remarkable institution. Same now and for a month it will be impossible to reserve! No, let people go, let the owner earns as much as possible, builds new complexes, develops a recreational infrastructure of Ukraine with the same taste and soul. And we will go to search new opening.