On locks of the Western Ukraine

Approach of "gold" autumn has reminded of one of the most fascinating autorounds whom we have made with friends one year ago – on cities and locks of the Western Ukraine. Except locks, it would be desirable to visit all regional centres of this region and simply interesting places also. Proceeding from it the week route also has been planned: Kiev-Dubno-Lutsk-Pidgirtsy-Zolochev-Olesko-Lvov-Frankovsk-JAremche-Uzhgorod-Ternopol-Kiev. Trip time – October when it was not too cold has been very successfully chosen, leaves yet do not singe, but the nature already with might and main behaved violently yellow and red colours.

Went four together by my car. In the finance have not been especially constrained, so stopped (whenever possible) in decent hotels and visited the best restaurants (were then pinned, what is it there was present „a culinary round”). In a stock there were listings with the description of the several locks, taken, mainly, from an excellent specialised site „Locks and temples of Ukraine”. Details of the road already were a little erased from memory so I will stop on the brightest impressions from seen, heard and eaten. :)

Having left in the morning from Kiev, were closer to a dinner already in small Rovno district Dubno. The main sight – the lock of XV century on the coast Ikvy, belonging to a sort of princes Ostrozhsky. Consists of two palaces surrounded with shaft and a defensive ditch. The perfect sample fortifikatsionnogo arts – the fortress has been never taken by storm though attempts there was a set. It, under Gogol's version, Cossacks in well-known «Tarase to Potatoes» besieged. It is now rather not bad restored, there is an exposition, it is possible to reserve excursion. It is a pity, interiors of palaces were not saved, but on fortifications we polazili with the great pleasure. In the beginning 90 city together with the lock rattled three years to all Ukraine rock festival «Taras Potatoes» which, by the way, has been revived last year on end. A concert platform put directly in lock territory. Thanks to festival in a city there is a decent tourist infrastructure. In particular, recently repaired hotel "Дубно" (street D. Galitskogo, 53) with very good restaurant. Unfortunately, this time it has been closed (during last visiting in the menu the frog pads and snails in green sauce have been found out even (!) which, it appears, plant on a farm somewhere under equal). So modestly to have a bite it was necessary in the first comer dubnenskom a vegetable marrow.

By the evening we were met by Volhynia – we have driven to Lutsk. Having travelled on a city, on a lodging for the night to stop have solved in tourist hotel "Свитязь" (street Quay, 4; bodies: (+380 3322) 49-000, 44-172). Conditions there not super but to live it is possible. The main thing, in a shower is hot water! For survey of sights was already rather late therefore have called a taxi, accurately having specified a terminal point – restaurant «Crown Vitovta» (street Cathedral, 19; bodies: (+380 3322) 27-114), the best institution in a city! It is located in the most historical part, in an ancient building, metres in two hundred from the lock, near to a Jesuit church. What to tell, an interior, service, kitchen – the higher class! Unostentatious live national music. Well and the prices … Hm … At level borshchagovskoj snack bars! I exaggerate, of course, but 150 grn. On 4 it is quite enough. However, heard, that they therefrom persistently are moved by neighbours from the Maltese award, can, already and there is no this remarkable institution taken by storm by the Maltese knights …

Since the morning have gone to wander in historical places. Have walked on nice foot street Lesi of the Ukrainian with old buildings ХIХ-ХХ of centuries with elaborate balcony lattices and navesikami over inputs in houses. Continually – little shops and kafeshki, in one of which had breakfast. The road has deduced to majestic Lyubarsky to the lock (it is put in pawn in 1340 by Prince Ljubartom, is completed in 1430-1542 in days of board of prince Svidrigajlo). Only here to be torn to it it was necessary through labyrinths of the Central market – the lock now in a constant siege of local dealers rags. Accordingly, and from lock towers the city panorama, in which foreground – a dirty market opens. :( In territory there is a museum of bells, there are archaeological and restoration jobs. From fortifications we were driven only by a dank autumn wind. Temples in a city great variety. On the Theatrical area have examined an orthodox Cathedral Piously-Troitsk cathedral near which beggars and collectors of signatures for resignation of president Kuchma have settled down. :) And in the car – to be heated!

3 locks on Galichchine (Zolochevsky, Pidgoretsky, Olesky), components «the Gold horseshoe» Ukraine appeared following point. Having returned to Dubno, have taxied on the Lvov line. Having found out behind Fords the index on Pidgirtsy (in Russian all the same speak podgortsy), not deliberating, have curtailed. The road has gone downhill and even something has begun streamer type. Have driven in silent village. At a stop in expectation of the bus there was a group of peasants, from which have decided to find out where to search for the lock. Left the car – and here it! Directly over road there is old, ragged, but the former beauty which have saved the rests a church – a copy of the Roman cathedral of Peter and Paul. And opposite, in the end of lime avenue, the palace belonging in XVII-XVIII centuries to the hetman Konetspolsky, then Sobessky and Zhevusky is seen. Between them – a football ground at which with high stely stone Uterus Bozka sadly looks. Church doors have been closed, but the little boy turning nearby undertook to call smotritelnitsu. The elderly woman, having treated with apples, has let in inside where all in woods and inertly restoration jobs flow, but already sometimes correct service. It has spent small digression on the newest history of a church and the lock, having informed, that a year later, probably, the basic part of restoration will be finished. The five for services and trouble long and politely refused, but all the same took «on restoration». I think, our five has not too approached end of restoration of the lock – jobs there still nemerjano. Once the magnificent interior of one of the richest palaces of Europe (has been constructed to Versailles and Petrodvorets) is completely destroyed by valorous Soviet army and the big fire, and one time a building served even as sanatorium for tuberkulyoznikov. But also one only appearance of a huge three-storyed palace with the rectangular defensive terrace, surrounded with a ditch, with park avenue and an old orchard, is worthy admiration. Knowingly it have chosen for a Louvre role in „Three musketeers”. :)

On road on Zolochev have visited any monastery with a sacred source. And somewhere halfway have stopped, amazed with magnificent yellow-red-green hilly landscapes in the light of the coming sun! There was simply uncontrollable desire to leave to admire, take a breath of autumn air, to make pair of pictures …

To Zolocheva have reached already when got dark. Having parked the car on parking at road service station, have gone on investigation. Having passed through the central area on which prepared for opening monument CHornovolu, hardly have aside found out unique on all city ubitenkuju hotel "Ukraine" (street Total, 4; bodies: (+380 3265) 32-142). Good impression in it the price has made only, something nearby 15 grn. For number. The rest – silent horror. Rooms dirty, furniture and the sanitary technician ubitejshie. About hot water here many years did not hear. A parking under windows without protection. Besides all though slightly decent numbers have been occupied – to a city from Kiev there has arrived the big commission of Crewe. But to us only to spend the night, have agreed that was. Have found most "kozyrnyj" a local tavern (where zolochevsky the mayor as us have assured sometimes hangs). And then till late night were cut in maps, yes so it is loud, that strongly disturbed a peace dream of neighbours-krushnikov which even have sent to calm us administratorshu. :)

Since the morning have gone on hill Kupina where, at a confluence of the rivers Zolochevki and Mlinovki, the Zolochevsky lock has settled down. In a modern kind, as a citadel bastionnogo type, it is built up in 1634 (is available even the tablet with date of end of building) the father of the future king of Poland Yana Sobesskogo – Jacob. For some reason it is considered, what is it a unique construction of defensive architecture in Europe, saved almost in a primordial form though in the late seventies it has undergone the big restoration. There are also dark pages of history – here there was an Austro-Hungarian prison, and then hundreds prisoners here contained People's Commissariat of Internal Affairs, having shot all of them before arrival of Germans. Now in the lock it is possible to visit an inhabited palace in style of the Renaissance which part is taken away under a poor exposition of subjects of a life local shljahty. Special interest, certainly, very original toilets in bedrooms have called. :) The control any – we with convenience have settled down on magnificent wooden armchairs, having dragged up them to a table at a fireplace and so were photographed in an ancient interior. Speak, a premise together with period furniture sometimes remove under banquets! Nearby there is a Chinese palace with «a garden of stones» and some quite modern sculptures.

And again through Pidgirtsy under the bronze horsemen-Red Army men who have fallen asleep in a jump over road, we leave on Olesko where the memorial estate H-XV ІІІ centuries „is located Olesky the lock ”. It is considered unique in Ukraine a fortress of times of the Kiev Russia. Under the legend, here even father Bogdana Khmelnitskiy Mihajlo Hop served. On a line there is an index. Turn on the lock - in the centre of village near a cathedral with green domes. Here it is the present tourist centre! The lock is excellently restored, there is an excellent exposition – a part of the Lvov picture gallery – in which is especially allocated a majestic and huge battle canvas" Fight near Vienna "where JAn Sobessky smashes a hundred-thousandth Turkish army. As the birthplace in 1629 of future Polish king Yana of III Sobessky also it is well-known Olesky the lock which has become in a consequence by royal residence (the king here did not happen almost). Very much it for it is liked by Poles, they, actually, and have restored it more hundred years ago after several fires and earthquakes. And in a semi-basement, in those premises where military victories the castle owner once celebrated, excellent restaurant "Гридница" with a traditional cuisine now works. Separate halls for smoking and non-smoking. A skin of a bear and the ancient weapon on a wall. Waitresses in medieval dresses. Meal excellent, the prices, as for kievljan, very moderated (griven 40-50 on the person together with alcohol – to be full). A contingent – basically Poles and the Germans led on fortification. :) Under mountain – park with ancient sculptures, and opposite – a monastery.

Further the road laid to Lvov. To stop in a city did not plan – for high-grade excursion there and it is not enough whole day, besides almost all there already happened. For one "uninitiated" have arranged a half-hour sightseeing tour on the centre, have drunk on coffee in one of uncountable "kav'jaren" and have jerked on Frankovsk. On capital of Huzul edge approached already zatemno. Have unmistakably selected a direction to the centre where at once have found tryohzvyozdochnuju (after repair) hotel "Надія", that was called as "Ukraine" (Independence street, 40 earlier; bodies: (+380 342) 53-7077). Nearby – a supervised parking. The usual double room cost 150 grn., but, having thought, administratorsha has suggested us to lodge four together in three-room "lux" for 270. Number simply potrjasnyj – typical «obkomovsky lux». A smart bedroom, a spacious drawing room with a folding sofa, an excellent bathroom with the hair dryer, well and obkomovsky an office with a massive table and the walls sheathed by a tree. Behind this table also have played in maps whom to sleep on a huge bed and to whom on a sofa. :) By the way, in hotel there is still so-called lux «in Huzul style» (228 grn.) in which spent the night in half a year for Christmas …

Evening Ivano-Frankovsk – a beautiful and boring show. Under the order of the mayor, after 23.00 all institutions in city centre are closed not to stir to a quiet dream of townspeople. Streets become empty, swayings of cheerful youth traditional for ancient European small towns on the centre few. Have found group of taxi drivers on the area which long could not advise where at midnight it is possible to have supper well. One undertook to take for a drive on a city. Any strip-bar at all did not arrange with the poor menu, in other place walked wedding. At last drove has recollected, that there is a good point to a paste in the country where it had repeatedly a snack. The point has appeared a usual roadside snack bar, but hardly at some distance we have noticed wings of a windmill shone in darkness to which have paid attention on entrance to a city. On a question, what is it such, the taxi driver has given up as a bad job: «About, it is very expensive …». «So to us there!» We were delighted. It appears, it was necessary to ask not about "good" restaurant, and about "most expensive" (further this formula successfully worked), after all concept "good" all a miscellaneous. :) We were not mistaken. The country branch of restaurant "Monte-Kristo" has surpassed all expectations. The cosy premise in a wooden mill, a "knightly" interior, a "live" fireplace, waitresses in loose overalls with hoods, and kitchen … you such not edali … :) Each dish differed amazing, unique taste. Ah, as there prepare a trout … Have gorged on so, that was difficult to rise because of a table. But, that the most interesting, vodka has not gone at all! ;) "NemiroFf-Premium" almost full it was necessary to take away with itself. In a consequence very much was useful … :)

Certainly, to have dinner next day, after walk on a city, we have gone in "Columns Monte-Kristo", but this time that in city centre, on street Vasilianok, 60. The Basement with a heap of knightly attributes in an interior and, the main thing, richer menu! The city has made rather favorable impression cleanliness and neatness of the central foot part recently restored. But nevertheless it is somehow dullish. Purchase of CD with wedding Huzul songs which cheered up all road on Gutsulshchine has amused. :)

Further the way laid on JAremchu (or JAremchE as confirmed some indexes). Here I was very much for a long time and hardly recollected old pictures. At once have called in in sanatorium "Яремче", but there free there were only very expensive lux. Were drove on several private hotels, each of which had the advantages, but anyhow not absolutely approached. At last, having driven kilometres 5 along the Rod aside Vorohty, have found out the index to the river with an inscription "Cottage-lux" (bodies: 8 (03434) 31244). It was IT! Small two-storeyed wooden srub on the coast of the Rod with two bedrooms, a tiny drawing room, a bathroom and a sauna for 300 grn. A day. The good-natured and hardworking owner – Huzul Petro – has flooded banku and has gone further to make a wooden rotunda. For now in a sauna stones were calcinated, we have gone to search for a place for a supper. Having checked up some variants, have stopped on the main point of this edge restaurant "Гуцульщина" (the monument of architecture constructed about 50 years ago without a uniform nail). Marinaded white and milk mushrooms were, of course, a program hit. A picturesque interior, picturesque kitchen, picturesque elderly waiters. And improbably picturesque Huzul music. Specially for us have executed "Gutsulku Xenia", and then the old man with cymbals has sat down by a table and long executed the local chastooshkas some of them juicy enough … ;) That case when it is not a pity to give a tchervonets for «musical service». Have returned in full delight! Both a sauna, and brought of Frankovska "Nemirov's" small bottle … here was useful :)

What a pity, that it was already necessary to leave this remarkable place where it is direct under windows in the morning the fast Rod rustles on stones, and mad mountains around tower. But it was necessary to visit still souvenir bazarchik, the original bridge over falls and to give due again taki to the best in the world karpatskim to mushrooms, this time in sour cream! :) Further the way through Rahov and Mukachevo laid to Uzhgorod. The nonsense that was expensive lengthways Yews in several places is washed away and there was repair work. But, what kinds were around! One mountain green, other yellow, third red. And more set of shades! And with bitterness noticed high temples of industrial cutting down. Eh, Zakarpate – edge of the won social democracy …

The Mukachevsky lock on a grief have for a moment inspected only from the party – time for a stop, unfortunately, any more was not. In capital Zakarpatja, after short searches, have stopped a choice on private hotel "Duet" (street the Queen, 17; bodies: +380 (3122) 29-921). As assures the personnel, here stopped itself Pugachyova! :) A double junior suite with a minibar for 175 grn. A sauna, pool (with which and have not used), a supervised parking (a thing very necessary). Excursion on a city have left next day for now have gone in advertised a korchmu-museum «Detsa at notarja» (Gagarin's street, 98; bodies: (+380 3122) 24-922) which the deputy of local council owns, the satirist and caricaturist Pavlo Chuchka. It something! While I speak only about an interior. At those who makes out an institution (and it in constant process of changes) sense of humour not simply is present – it splashes too much! There is no sense even to describe all tricks which meet the visitor literally everywhere, since the comic tablet «Pam'jatka архітектури» at an input and finishing the menu is all it is necessary to see! It is a pity, summer platforms did not work, there – 80 % of tricks which should be examined in an excursion mode (one "cemetery" of that cost). It is necessary to communicate With the personnel cautiously – every second phrase can be a joke. :) And here the meal and service have a little disappointed – is not so tasty and long. All the same not behind ethnic cuisine here the people bring down …

All next morning under a drizzle were unsteady on the medieval areas and streets of an old right-bank part of a city, on the longest in Europe to lime avenue, by the Town hall, churches and set of ancient buildings. Theatrical (if I am not mistaken) the areas have decided to consider as one of the main sights office «supervising and directing» parties indoors where earlier, apparently, sold sausage, and now the signboard "Epicure" is replaced with a header «Соціал-демократична партія (about ’ ¾dnana)». :) Winding paved small street Kapitulnaja has deduced by a magnificent Krestovozdvizhensky cathedral of XVII century to the thousand-year Uzhgorod lock. The fortress has found a present kind in the end of XVII century. Long time it was the main stronghold of region, then the theological seminary here settled down. The most part of an exposition poor (by money, instead of exhibits) museum of local lore to which now posesses the lock – actually only a seminary interior somehow is devoted it and was saved. There are also exhibitions of the weapon, clothes, national tools etc. In a court yard with a small garden – a bottomless well and sculpture Gerakla, winning a hydra. Have walked on a museum of national architecture and a life that is direct opposite – mini-Pirogovo. :) And again on narrow small streets of a city in the centre of Europe where cultures of Ukraine have mixed up, Hungary, Romania and Slovakia, – to have a bite in the Mexican bar. :)

Till the night it was necessary to have time to reach Ternopol – last reloading point before returning to Kiev. In area Stryja have curtailed from the Lvov line to Ternopol where the "significant" stop on need has been made. :) Already having driven ZHidachev (dreadful road – has flown in a huge hole), has suddenly found out, that from a belt was gone mobilka, dropped out, probably, during a campaign to bushes. I it already was have buried, but friends have insisted to return. Half an hour under a vile rain and a wind combed a high grass, highlighting headlights. Even the call has not helped – stirred rain noise. And have left with what – only feet have wet. In any village for ZHidachevom have come in kafeshku to be warmed chajkom and konjachkom (to whom it is possible) after "rescue party". The friend took on 50 best cognacs, from this, that was, but, already having brought a wine-glass to a mouth, has suddenly found out in it PERCHIK! It is necessary, to dilute expensive cognac not cheap, as usually, and pepper brandy! On colour after all it is similar. :) So the owner has excoriated waiters not that IN GENERAL dilute, and for WHAT!!!

In Ternopol at once have gone to hotel with the name with the same name, but the local cold and absence of hot water have forced to look for other variant. Have stopped in "Galichinne" (street Chumatsky, 1а; bodies: (+380 352) 33-6159) over lake where have occupied last free lux. To friends the barrel was necessary to lodge in usual killed number, where to all other also from windows. Was already zapolnoch, but very much it would be desirable to eat, therefore, having used in dialogue with the taxi driver the checked up formula «the most expensive restaurant» and having swept under the first snowball, have got to a night club "Dominoes" (P.Orlika's street, 4а; bodies: (+380 352) 53-4130). On an input the huge bouncer in a suit, having inspected our road ex-terrier, with the big scepticism has concerned the desire stated by us to "attempt". But, having called the manager who has promised to organise a supper, has been compelled to accept our dirty jackets and with a gloomy kind to tell: « Pass, please ». :) Mda … Meat was simply disgusting, in a throat climbed hardly. But though the program have looked. :)

Ternopol could see only from a car window as since the morning it was necessary to start urgently to Kiev. And there is nothing to look especially there, as far as I know. On road have traditionally stopped to have dinner in Medzhibozhe, more well-known for the roadside restaurant, than the most interesting lock XII-XIX of centuries on a place of merge of the rivers Bugs and the God. In the lock we already happened, and as to restaurant, kitchen there as on me, recently becomes more and more fresh, almost "fastfudovskoj". Only deruny still fry excellently. :) So, under champing taken with itself derunami, also have reached Kiev. Here was sljakotno and it is cold, the first snow has dropped out. The season of autotravel of 2002 on it has come to an end.