Huzul spring – on March, 8th in JAremche

Once, in ice cold winter time … Is not present, it was time not so winter, but still ice cold – the first week of March. I have glanced in weather forecast and have found out, that is direct before the International women's day in native land snowfalls are expected. Especially plentiful – in the Western Ukraine. Has carried, I think (with easy envy), to the brother with weather – it just was going to March holidays to spend on one of the advanced mounting skiing resorts of Ukraine – in Bukovele. However, snow on lines there is always – snow guns, but karpatskie smereki under a snow cover work... Beauty! I to study in ski art this year was not going to, but seriously thought how efficiently to use these several days off. And what here to think? In the same place nearby JAremcha – in the winter we with Ksjuhoj on this excellent climatic resort did not happen yet! And other sights on road are available. There was a Thursday, the next day should be clear, snow was expected only on Saturday. Means, on Friday since morning we leave!

In time. With road really very much has carried, with the account of that since next day the present accident has begun – snow brought down daily, ice collected generous crops of the crumpled metal in ditches, dorozhniki simply had not time to cope with consequences though have deduced on lines all technics. Here "has carried" to the brother who has left on Saturday, already I regretfully thought next day.

For now we with a breeze have reached Zhitomir, have curtailed to Vinnitsa (well, I do not like to go through Starokonstantinov!), have endured Berdichev (to go only through the centre!) also have moved on Khmelnitskiy. Survey of memorable places round Vinnitsa have decided to postpone till warm times. The road dry, not overloaded, only is too much holes. Asphalt pieces takes off from under wheels vperediidushchih. Whether It is necessary to mention what to have dinner have stopped in "Medzhibozhe"? :) There, by the way, building on the sly moves and the big hotel will already soon open.

The Khmelnitskiy have bypassed on district, and here in front of Ternopol have decided to curtail on the first excursion. In total in 12 km the ancient small town Skalat aside laid (1654), it appeared at us in respect of visiting. Only I have missed, have turned under the first index in podvolochiske (it was necessary in Kamenkah). It has appeared, what is it the longest route – kilometres 25. And roads of regional value it is far not such pure, as state. No, the tractor there has walked, but has done such very narrow corridor in snowdrifts, that in some places I was happy, that have not met other cars – to part is unreal. Thus the strong wind, a glaze ice under wheels also calm only the big snow sailings on each side – to take off from road there is no place. Have on tiptoe crept to Skalata Literally. In the centre – required sight, the lock Polish mechnika Vihrovsky (1630) . Four towers, walls and the base of later palace Yana Firleja were saved. Ruins modestly, but decently look, however the local administration obviously does not count on tourist interest – in a courtyard waste ground and almost kitchen gardens. But nearby sacred Anna's brand new and quite modern church rises. More ancient samples of cult architecture to find out it was not possible – the Soviet power, whether know, it and on Ternopolshchine was Soviet …

It is better to reach Ternopol directly, on the main road through Kolodievku. It in a good condition and almost empty. The regional centre needs to be gone round on district, and here in Rogatine do not take in head to be led on the first index "Ivano-Frankovsk" – will get on short, but razdolbanejshuju the roundabout. Only through the centre! By the way, here it is full of sights. We them already saw, and for those who did not happen, I will remind: church of Christmas of the Virgin (XIV-XV centuries), wooden church of the Holy Spirit (1598), the Nikolaev church (XV century), well, and a monument well-known roksolane on the market area.

And here ancient Galich me interested for a long time already, as the centre once one of the mightiest slavic princedoms. From a line now it is well visible a tower of the lock of prince Ljubarta (XIV-XVII centuries) Which have started to restore capitally (there were only ruins earlier). The road to it conducts around zamkovoj mountains, and then branch to the right, sharply upwards. For storm of this vysotki it is better to choose dry weather, and during other time – parkovochka hardly further. To survey of this monument of defensive architecture have decided in Skalate to be limited for the same reason adverse weather conditions. Princely ditinets Vladimir Volodarevicha who corrected the Galitsko-Volynsk princedom in XII century, it is located a little aside, and to search for it on snow-covered roads we have not risked. As it would be desirable to reach a spending the night place before dark. In a warm season very much I recommend to turn in the centre. It amazes with medieval luxury, but ancient small houses look, as for district, is very fresh and it is nice. I think, to sit on a shop and to take a look at a monument to grand duke Daniel Galitskomu and Christmas church (XIII-XIV centuries) in good weather it should be pleasant.

Round Ivano-Frankovsk – district. On the first traffic light it is necessary to turn to the right (for some reason the index in this place is only on Bukovel which and the occupied point is not). Last obstacle – Nadvirna. Very much zaputanno movement there is organised. But intuitively it is possible to leave always, being guided on indexes, signs on the main road and own scent.

Well, here and long-awaited JAremcha. In road Ksjuha strenuously rang out all suitable hotels. Flow on March has appeared almost as for New Year – all decent and not too expensive places have been already reserved. Has carried only in "vodograe" (Freedom street, 363; bodies: (03434) 21-203). For 350 grn. To us have offered half of cottage – a high-grade suite with a bedroom, a drawing room with kuhonkoj, a bathroom and even a nursery which yet was not useful. :) Expensively, but the money costs. And in general, a cottage 6-8-местный, with three high-grade bedrooms, a nursery, two bathrooms and a verandah over the Rod. Half-and-half shares a partition-jalousie, so two families (or the companies) each other do not stir. However, conditions turn out unequal. One will manage two double bedrooms and a verandah, and another – one bedroom, a nursery and a drawing room. In total there are such 4 wooden cottages as the Finnish small houses. The bar is not present, but the meal can be reserved from restaurant with delivery, or to go to cafe of the nearest hotel "Primrose". The sauna too only is planned. But a place simply smart, especially descent to the Rod with terraskami and platforms for a barbecue. It is a pity, not a season …

Excellent sauna, more precisely, Russian bath, we have found nearby – in a cottage complex «At Galina» (Freedom street, 333; bodies: (03434) 22-241, 22-791). Ooochen it was pleasant, though and without pool. An interior interesting, karpatsky tea (free of charge), a minibar with beer (for money). And all it for 25 grn. From the person at an o'clock. From interest have glanced and in Galininy kottedzhy. The biggest has especially liked, six-seater in which Vladimir Klichko (a photo once stopped is proud is hung out over a fireplace), but there is it 100 dollars even during a low season. And the simple small cottage can be removed for 180 grn.

It is a lot of to write about tourist centre Gutsulshchiny it will not turn out. It after all simply climatic resort. It is few sights, and that is – are practically fabricated: a stone and caves Dovbusha, a minizoo with deer and kosuljami, «the love bridge» … Well-known falls proby if to speak frankly, and falls to name difficultly. So, thresholds. From there is nothing to do, it is possible to glance in a museum of emancipating movement OUN-UPA which «the Museum vizvolnih zmagan» (Freedom street, 269) ridiculously is called. The Olympic Games it were, whether that? But, in a complex with the nature, all is perceived very remarkably. That who practises in a daily life a sedentary image as we, some days standing are extremely useful to spend, overcoming numerous descents and liftings in picturesque places in aspiration to useless, but quite to specific goals with the camera naizgotovku. And at least for one evening to land at nice restaurant "Гуцульщина" – to eat mushrooms in all possible forms, to listen to live Huzul music and to admire carved interiors. After all it is the monument of architecture constructed in 1965 without a uniform nail!

Small restaurants, the cafe and kolyb in JAremche is a lot of, but got used to the Kiev service – not to clear up. At once I hand over the best place – kolyba at hotel «It is red sadyba» (street Ivasjuka; bodies: (03434) 22-253, 21-275). Very cosy, it is very tasty and not zaoblachno under the prices – 150 grn. For two at the richest table and expensive alcohol. It is literally at us new restaurant "Гражда" directly near "Gutsulshchiny" has opened, but there is too simple-minded, though and is cheaper. Sometimes in addition recommend «Green gaj», but there it was not pleasant to us.

As the fan to try kitchens of nations of the world, I recommend to take pleasure in the basic Huzul viands necessarily. First of all, it is mushrooms (naturally, white – others here and do not consider as mushrooms) – marinaded and zharennye in sour cream. We in Carpathians absorb them in nemerjannyh quantities, moreover with ourselves we type – sushyonnye and marinaded in banks (only not to buy in the souvenir market near the basic line – there in 2-3 times more expensively!) . Further – an amazing mountain trout. It simply enough to fry, and pleasure is provided. But it is possible and in different sauces. And, at last, banosh. As a matter of fact, usual corn porridge on sour cream but as the garnish goes remarkably though it is not considered that, is underlined in section of the basic dishes. I necessarily reserve it for a breakfast, especially with a brynza. About a brynza – special conversation. It is completely not similar that sell in our supermarkets. Rough country meal of long storage, irreplaceable for for a long time leaving on poloniny shepherds (it is difficult to believe, but till now are found in mountains the present wild Huzuls!). Dry and very salty. It is used more likely as seasoning, as parmesan.

Have few times gone on Bukovel on a visit to the brother. The resort has amazed as unprecedented in Carpathians tsivilnostju with the European level of service, and the prices (a double room – 400 grn. During a high season, SkiPass the VIP – 175 grn. In day). But there are lines of different level of complexity, snow guns work almost all year long, ratraki regularly lick slopes and even there is the shined line providing night driving. Network restaurant "Казачок" «Trump map» quite corresponds to the Kiev level under the prices (40 grn. For the basic dish) and to service – even the personnel works the Kiev. And here the kitchen has not impressed – any obshchepitovskaja. It is possible to have a bite in a pizzeria "Felichita" at the main lift, but kitchen there absolutely mediocre is even easier. razbalovalis we to the Mediterranean. :) And to the people for holidays has gathered – not to force the way. On lifts – hour turns to stand it is necessary even to owners VIPовских "ski-passov". Skiers from all neighbouring settlements gather here, parking are hammered under an outset. In the same JAremche, for example, there is one podyomnichek near to sanatorium "Carpathians", but only 250 m., will not clear up.

In "Carpathians" (street Country, 30; bodies: (03434) 22-474, 22-134) we have spent last night, and on Tuesday, on 8th of March, have gone to a way back. The snowball did not cease the last some days and promised heavy road about what have warned in news since the evening. But new sights nevertheless have decided not to refuse. From Ivano-Frankovsk have selected a direction on Buchach. It is simple – it is necessary to follow indexes to Kiev which deduce from a city not aside Rogatina, namely to Tysmenitse.

The small town Buchach has made very favorable impression. In the centre huge, little bit ragged, but till now the Town hall storing former magnificence (1750-51) with sculptures Pinzelja at once is evident: Gerakl, the Nephrite, a Themis and David. It has been constructed at moral and Nikolay Pototsky's material support of a nice Polish sort which owned Buchachem from XVI century and has left after itself set of monuments of architecture. For example, the small and strict Nikolaev church is erected over the river near to the Town hall in 1610 to means of wife Stefana Pototsky Maria. It was the first stone church in a city, is famous for a highly artistic iconostasis of XVII century that to Pototskys has any relation and settled down under zamkovoj mountain the Uspensky church (1761-63) The inscription a Latin over an input testifies. The same Stefan Pototsky has promoted occurrence in a city of a brigade of fathers vasilian which in 1753 have based the Vasiliansky monastery on a grief Fedir. Now the baroque church of a monastery of job of architect Gottfried Hoffmann is majestic towers over a city from a river opposite side. Well, and dominating over Buchachem the lock of XVI century which have got to Pototsky from a sort Buchatsky. He should admire from apart – to approach to collars on snow-covered first coat was not represented possible. Means, the occasion will stop here once again in other season.

About presence of one more lock in vicinities speaks the name of suburban village Pidzamochok through which we passed further, but to deviate from the cleared away line have not risked. As to time remains only on one object of visiting which have selected Mikulintsy, slightly having supported forces in a sleepy roadside institution.

Here we have curtailed from a line and have risen uphill round the park enclosed with a fence in territory zamkovoj mountains. The very narrow path has deduced to Pototsky's next palace (XVIII century), to not bad enough saved. Before arrival of the Soviet power to 1939 the count family of Yards here lived. To a building has carried – it have decided not to destroy on custom of revolutionary time, and to use under hospital.

And if to bypass a palace at the left, to a look towers and walls of the Mikulinsky lock of Anna Iordanovoj from a sort Senjavsky (1550) appear. The most interesting, that in one of towers at entrance gate till now there live people! Even the satellite aerial hangs. The apartment in the lock was received in the inheritance by the daughter of chamber Polish countess Rej, and now Stefanija Boloj reflects, whether to give the habitation to the state for museum creation, or to private hands under hotel. At last it is necessary to look at the Troitsk church (1761-79) and it is possible to go further.

Last site of a route has appeared the present test – vykatannyj in the firm crust, the snow ice crust partially broken by wheels, passing places in ice. At first from road the brother has called, having informed, that will meet us under Volochisky at the car which have buried in a snowdrift. It has got the right wheel to snow, and it has developed. It is good, though speed was low – has done without damages. Pulled out it then a tractor as the usual waggon on a slippery covering and has not consulted – only slipped. And then on district Korostysheva when, having been delighted to pure road, I pritopil to 110 km/h, have come an enlightenment. That fact, that we not on road, and on a skating rink, has testified a going in advance minibus which, perfectly well having executed a threefold sheepskin coat, only has left at the last minute from road to a snowdrift. I did not feel brakes in general, sliding, like clockwork, and only ABS have allowed to keep a course and to leave from collision. If I will plan distant trips in the winter for the next year, I will necessarily get shipovannoj rubber.