Zakarpate: mountains, locks and a trout
Zakarpate is already almost Ukraine. The small area cut from the basic body of the country karpatskim by a ridge, became Ukrainian all 60 years ago – later, than all other regions. Here had not time to forget yet, that such a private property, are able to earn money and it is reasonable to invest them. The eye everywhere pleases nice cottages and tidy court yard. The tourist infrastructure develops rough rates round numerous nature sanctuaries and architecture, mountain-skiing lines and thermal sources. Borders four East Europe countries Here converge at once: Romania, Hungary, Slovakia and Poland. People speak on any freakish dialect-mix in which the Ukrainian language is guessed hardly. It is difficult even to find an inscription in some small towns on the native language. The local cuisine which also has taken best at neighbours, pleases with a variety of dishes on the basis of corn, mushrooms and dairy products: mamalyga, banosh, tokan with a brynza, a goulash-bogrash, lecho, knedli, kremzliki … And karpatskuju a trout so do not prepare more anywhere!
On Zakarpatju we have decided to drive before for 10 days to be arranged on rest in Truskavets. To Mukachevo from Kiev have reached for 9 and a half hours, rejoicing to building of the international line on a site from Stryja to CHopa goes what rates. At once have gone to search for suitable hotel – in advance did not reserve to estimate all on a place. It is a lot of hotels, but in the centre all are hammered! Though distances and small, but it would be desirable to stop more close to a historical part. In particular, "Dolphin" (street Uzhgorod, 1а has liked; bodies: (03131) 31-522) at the main bridge in an old part with noisy cafe on the ground floor (200 grn. For double). Quite good impression has made "Langer" (street Rosvigovsky, 2; bodies: (03131) 22-287; 150 grn. For double), though it and further from the centre. But, you want – you do not want, it was necessary to lay out 250 grn. For chetyryohzvyozdochnyj "is old" (World street, 10-12; bodies: (03131) 32-008). But it is direct on the central area, opposite to a town hall. Otelchik really high quality, numbers very comfortable, protection serious, in cost enters a breakfast and even a luggage tray. But the prices, of course, bite … Evening to spend to us recommended on the nature, in a rest complex «Karpatsky mislivets» (Rosvigovo, Mukachevsky r-n.; bodies: (03131) 54-497) where there is also a hotel, but we would not like to leave at once for a city. This evening only have slightly walked on the centre and had supper in enough stylish and cheerful "Tavern" on a foot part of street of Pushkin.
In total in Mukachevo already three peshehodki, located a triangle. In an hour have bypassed since the morning all of them, have looked a town hall and a monument to Cyril and Mefodiju, have glanced in a passage, have examined a Catholic church on World street (1904) into which complex St. Martin's which has saved from a church of XIV century There and then the Gothic chapel enters, on World square, 16, there is a palace "White house" (XV-XVIII centuries) Princes Rakotsi, belonging subsequently to the well-known columns SHenbornam. By the way, this dear German sort, along with cheerful family of princes-rebels Rakotsi, has left very appreciable trace in edge history. Throughout two centuries, before the arrival of the Soviet power, it posessed here huge grounds, palaces and the basic industrial enterprises. In particular, count Fridrih Shenborn has lifted and has made well-known to all Europe Mukachevsky beer factory in Pidgorjanah, based by prince Ferentsem II Rakotsi still 300 years ago – too interesting sight. And one of direct successors of the count, Christina, lives till now in the Austrian village Shenborn near Vienna and periodically supports descendants of the former citizens, quite possibly, secretly dreaming about restitutsii.
But the basic dominant of a city, certainly, lock Palanok which has fine saved and supported as it should be (XIV-XVII centuries) is . Its powerful walls and towers are well visible on a lonely mountain in the middle of plain, from what party you would not drive to a city. To approach it is possible to the collars where the small parking is equipped. The name of the lock occurs from one of its defensive works. In an antiquity zamkovuju the mountain was surrounded with a water ditch over which internal coast the paling from the pointed logs – palanok towered. In my opinion, it is one of the most interesting locks in territory of Ukraine, on a level with Hotinsky or Oleskim. Consists of the Top, Average and Bottom locks constructed at various times. Very big on the area, with the confused labyrinths of transitions and galleries, with several museums in territory and with very interesting history. It was residence transilvanskih princes Rakotsi and the main stronghold of the Hungarian national-liberation war, for what Hungarians very much respect him.
Further we have returned on 10 km back on a line Uzhgorod-Lvov to settlement Chinadievo. Near to it hunting lock Shenbornov (1890) – their country residence, and nowadays sanatorium "Carpathians" (bodies is located: (03131) 21-306, 21-08). Directly the line has a beautiful ancient building of railway station – count Fridrih still has taken care in those days of a transport infrastructure of the possession. From station on mountain «the old count road» conducts, but it is closed by collars with the big rusty lock. Operating arrival is a little sideways, there a sanatorium checkpoint. The strict elderly watchman, is a little having grumbled a little for the sake of appearance, takes the car under the protection and, having softened, willingly tells, that here it is possible to look and as where it is better to pass. Possibly, for a small bribe it is possible to drive on territory and by the car, but we decide not to miss possibility to take pleasure in autumn park and we stamp on mountain on foot.
The first impression – we in Romania. Same poured out Sinai and palace Pelesh! The Same station below, the same hilly terrain, the same forest park, the same slightly twisting path opening after the next turn a kind on a perfect palace in the same Gothic style. The architecture, of course, another, but déjà vu does not leave sensation. In a building which are now one of sleeping cases, rich interiors were partially saved. In the park centre – man-made lake. And small lawns in a shade of oaks, apparently, are specially created, that on them to roll about. When in neighbouring woods in natural boundary Beregvar arranged magnificent huntings on which the nobility from all Austro-Hungarian empire gathered. And now, speak, they were chosen under one of the dens by the modern judge karpatskoj the nature Victor Medvedchuk. And in the settlement Chinadievo, from an opposite side from a line and is little bit closer to Mukachevo, it is possible to examine also the medieval lock-palace constructed in XIV-XVI centuries Baron Pereni. Simple-minded on architecture and started enough, but very impressive in appearance.
We move towards Uzhgorod. We turn off from a line in the item the Average. Here judges can glance in factory "Леанка" wine vaults (street Shevchenko, 6; bodies: (03122) 34-531). Wine maintain in flanks in rocky storehouse in length 4,5 km, hollowed in 1557, in premises with temperature of 12 degrees. Here - firm shop in which it is possible preoboesti finished goods. But us ruins of the medieval Serednjansky lock (XII century) more interest . Near a mill, on navodke local, we turn off on a narrow soil path between rural court yard and … we rest against deadlock. Mda … And where? Yes here it, is seen between huts and fences on waste ground! A square tower-donzhon in Romance style. So boundary fortresses of ancient Romans on northeast suburbs of empire looked. Monks-tampliery, having lodged here during ancient times, have accurately copied all features of the Roman defensive architecture. What happiness, that for these centuries peasants all the same had not time to take away all stones from a tower on the sheds! Such sad fate has comprehended many remarkable monuments of architecture Zakarpatja and not only …
To Uzhgorod this time we do not call in – that we there yet did not see! Is which that, but it next time … We go under the index on the Rerank and at once behind village Nevitsky on a grief ruins of walls and towers of the Nevitsky lock (XIII century) are seen. We turn off on the bridge near small falls under the index on "Restaurant Kamelot". The district under the lock, on the bank of small river, is favourite vacation spot uzhgorodtsev. There are equipped beach and athletic fields, have around settled down some cafe, kolyb and motels. The most solid – this most "Kamelot" (bodies: (0312) 731-933, 731-955, 731-988). The big complex directly under mountain: restaurant, hotel (190 grn. For double), separate bungalows (270 grn.), Russian bath, open pool and covered parking. Here we decide to have dinner before lifting on mountain. The Hungarian fish soup has made the most favorable impression.
To the lock the road conducts further on mountain. The sign «Entrance is forbidden» us does not stop and on broken enough serpantinchiku we reach gate of the former pioneer camp in which territory now and there is a lock. Near to the case – Wagner's park with a fountain working by a principle of informed vessels, and the tablet with short history of the lock from which it is possible to learn, that actually it "Nevestsky" as in an antiquity in him hid brides. One more beautiful legend narrates about the malicious and severe mistress of the lock, one of representatives of Italian sort Drugetov whom for stern temper and propensity to black magic have nicknamed Is nasty-divcha. Ostensibly to punish it for excesses king Matjash has solved. But the lock was so is well strengthened, that the king has not dared at storm, and instead has gone on cunning. He has ordered to an army to collect at night cattle from all neighbouring villages, to adhere hand bells, to light fires and to arrange to more noise under walls. It is nasty-divcha has accepted noise for the beginning of storm of huge army and ran from the lock then the king could not catch up and execute her.
Drugety have built up the lock in XIV century in the Italian style, having exhausted with tens years of heavy building all neighbouring population. In the centre the square tower-donzhon towers, it is surrounded with other towers and bastions. They are separated by a deep external ditch, to overcome which not simply and now. To define, where there were entrance gate, and it was not possible to us. The lock had the important strategic value as supervised a trading way from Hungary in the Galitsko-Volynsk princedom. Its prince Rakotsi in 1644 However has destroyed, the basic constructions remained are whole. Separate elements of interiors and a decor were saved since those times also. A construction obviously tried to restore, but it is not too successful. In particular, over donzhonom wooden overlapping and a viewing platform is built on. The excellent kind on valley Uzha and road twisted below from above opens. From here It is nasty-divcha looked out to itself for the next victim … :)
Business approached by the evening, and we have hastened to in advance planned place of spending the night – to a rest complex "Voevodino" (with. Turija Pasika, Rechinsky r-n; bodies: (03145) 47-240, (03122) 30-110) which was recommended by friends and colleagues. In advance have reserved by phone a separate bungalow with a fireplace as advised respected BMB2110. Also have not regretted. The complex is located in gorge between mountains in several kilometres from village on a country road, small potholes and which holes it is necessary to go through as a reality (turn in village under the index). Represents, in my opinion, one of the best samples karpatskogo the recreational centre. Perfectly organised territory - with a rivulet and lakes with small fishes, wooden architecture, cosy cottages of the different capacity, a full complex of entertainments: restaurant, a bar, kolyba, two saunas, billiards, fitness, own stable, minigolf, pejnbol and many other things. Only the ski hill nearby is not present, it is necessary to go in Lumshory and on Krasiju. What pleasure to sit on a verandah small cosy kottedzhika with a fireplace and all conveniences (250 grn.), sipping beer from a minibar and observing a decline! Then Russian steam room and, at last, shashlychki with marinaded mushrooms in warm kolybe. Speak, here prepare the best in Carpathians a trout, but to try it it is possible only at restaurant, which till 22.00, or in not too cosy bar.
As it is a pity, but next morning it was necessary to leave remarkable "Voevodino". For a day it was necessary to drive decent distance on the Zakarpatye remote places with a final point on Sinevire. Again by Uzhgorod and Mukachevo have gone in Beregovo. During ancient times for this place there was a boundary settlement of Romans, but traces they after itself have not left. Is not present in a city and the traditional lock. But the Beregovsky area is well-known for thermal sources like the Hungarian. Such smart swimming baths as in Budapest, here, of course, is not present, but in the medical purposes hot mineral vodichku all the same use. In particular, in the city the all-the-year-round open thermal pool is on sport base "Zakarpate" (street Korjatovicha, 1; bodies: (03141) 23-181). Is at it and hotel on 150 numbers. To find very easily, if to move on the main street. Hungarians it is a place very much respect, come to bathe families, but say, that the most curative thermal vodichka - in Kosoni, on border with Hungary. In Beregovo also it is possible to get on wine tasting. Directly on the central street the House of wine with an exposition of instruments of production is located. On test offer 7 grades traditional karpatskogo a drink.
To bathe and drink wine we not steels, but have called in in the centre and have gone to go sightseeing. It is not a lot of them, and the greatest attention is deserved by "the Count court yard" (1629) – a palace of prince Betlena, the oldest secular construction in a city. And in appearance also you will not tell, what is it sight - we only with a map could understand. In the centre it is necessary to pass on the bridge through channel Verke and to pass by restaurant to the area, prior to the beginning of street Shevchenko where ordinary-looking enough small house has settled down. And the smart building with restaurant is a former casino. Nearby very old Gothic church XII-XIX centuries, one more should be somewhere on city suburb, but we have found it. On foot street Koshuta - big zdnaie the former hotel "Lion's court yard" (XVII century) But has most of all amazed domination of Hungarians, which, on the statistican, the majority of the population. One business an abundance of memorial boards and monuments is not known to whom, as to an inscription on Hungarian. This right of those who established them. As well as various posters, announcements and advertising for the same reason not cogitable the Ukrainian. But tablets with names of streets in city centre! They not produblirovany, they it is exclusive on the Hungarian! However, whom confuses, that in the east and the south at all of us in Russian …
Correctly to choose a direction on Vinogradov it has appeared not so that simply, it was necessary to address for the help to the local. Here we have by the way examined the rests of the Ugochansky lock (XI-XV centuries) on a hill at bottom of Black mountain which peasants have taken away for a long time already on fencings and terraces for vineyards. Also it is known as lock Kankiv destroyed in 1557 by royal armies of the Austrian empire in revenge to its owner - to the Protestant to baron Pereni - for murder of Catholic priests. The rests of walls and towers it is well visible from the centre, from a road fork on Korolyovo and Tjachev. Therefrom, from street Kovalsky, by shop, and arrival. To satisfaction of tourist curiosity ruins absolutely are not present are adapted. Almost are completely surrounded by private court yard and kitchen gardens. Edistvennuju a footpath to find not simply. But to climb on ruins very much costs to take from a hill a view of a panorama of a city with spikes of the Voznesensky church (XIV century) and a monastery of Franciscans (1516).
Also have looked at a ragged palace of baron Pereni (XVI-XVIII centuries) with the started park. And further zarulili in settlement Korolyovo. The name occurs at all from a surname of the well-known designer of rockets as can seem. The matter is that here once there was royal castle Nolab (XIV century) which supervised a salt alloy after the Yew. Here governors of Hungary when came here more often stopped to hunt. In 1672 the lock has been destroyed by order of Austrian emperor Leopold as a nursery of free-thinking and insurgent moods, but ruins were a little bit saved. To find easily. Moving on the main road, is more subcentral settlement it is necessary to curtail under the small index "Royal castle" to a small mountain. The very narrow not travel road to it rises abruptly upwards to the left of a small monastery.
Further for a short while have glanced in picturesque district Hust. Here too there are lock ruins, but absolutely ruinistye, and is high enough on a grief where it is difficult to reach. Once the lock was big and very impressive. Have constructed it at top of cone-shaped mountain by order of Hungarian king Ladislava in XII century Often changed owners, and in the end of XIV century it belonged to brothers Drago and Shakily Maramorosham. Subsequently both brothers have run away from set on them the king of malicious baron Pereni to Transylvania. Drag Maramorosha consider as one of ancestors well-known valahskogo voevody Vlad Drakuly that allows to some the unsteady basis to consider the Hustsky lock as a den thought up Bremom the Stoker of the Romanian vampire. To check we have not got – highly, and grew dark already. Suddenly Drakula still there? :) Therefore have simply taken a walk on the central foot street and have fluently examined the Elizavetinsky church (XIII-XIV centuries). We still needed to reach to Sinevira.
Away from a route this time there was a Valley of narcissuses. It is necessary to go there in the middle of May when all valley is covered by colours. We, by Tereblja-Riksky HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION (too very interesting object – water on a huge pipe through mountain gets from a water basin to small river Rika), have on the sly reached to mezhgorja, and therefrom have curtailed on Sinevir. This settlement – only the first boundary. It is necessary to overcome pass, whence already a hand a tax to border sinevirskogo reserve further. On entrance it is arranged by a check point in picturesque srube, for journey on territory theoretically should raise a payment, but nobody has stopped us. It is expensive sharply has worsened, have driven in settlement the Sinevirsky glade. Has darkened. The stony first coat was given hardly. Cautiously probing road headlights, have overcome some more kilometres behind village. At last at the left fires – a long-awaited civilisation, base of rest «Sinevirsky lake» (bodies: (03146) 27-558, 22-972). Conditions quite good enough, the case is partially reconstructed, good numbers with conveniences (110-200 grn.). But to lake still at least kilometre. We get over through small river on the narrow bridge and almost to the touch we move further uphill. And here in darkness outlines big wooden sruba appear. Windows are shone, for us wait. Number on base «the Sea eye» (bodies: (03146) 21-433; office: 27-558) have reserved by phone in advance (110-220 grn. For double). And it is absolutely vain. Except us and attendants in "hunting lodge" in general it has appeared nobody.
Recommend «the Sea eye» I can only that who is not confused with sovok asceticism, Spartan conditions, heating by fire wood by means of ovens and one bathroom on all house. To fans of comfort «the Sinevirsky lake» or in close to her private motel "Arnica" (bodies is better to stop below, on mentioned base: (0312) 66-00-60, (050) 541-2062). But you will be deprived pleasure to leave since morning on a balcony, to inhale a drink of mountain freshness and to take a view of a foggy smooth surface of the most high-mountainous lake in Ukraine. It is necessary to drive on it on a raft and to call in on «Island enamoured» which from height of the bird's flight as speak, reminds a pupil in an enormous Sinevirsky eye. By the way, at base there is a modest cafe where also prepare an excellent local trout. And here to catch in lake it is forbidden …
After walk on lake have left next morning before. On departure from reserve, at a check point, we turn off under the index on a timber rafting museum. The security guard has assured, that road there, though also soil, but quite travel. And it has appeared, though stones come across rather big. As it is good, that at "Karizmy" decent enough road clearance. Exactly through 5 km to a look that remains from a wooden dam after flooding of 1998 Of the dam already has appeared is not present, but wooden construction on one of coast was saved. A construction very interesting both with technological, and from the aesthetic point of view. The unpretentious exposition from drawings, photos and the breadboard models describing unique technology karpatskogo of timber rafting is indoors equipped. Nearby recently have constructed something like hotel with conveniences which accepts during a season of tourists for symbolical enough payment. And one more small small house serving storozhkoj as the inspector speaks leading for us excursion, has redeemed Hell Rogovtseva and in the summer here her son more often has a rest.
It is time to Truskavets. But on road at us the village Pilipets lays, where decided to make last stop to look at well-known falls SHipot. Turn from a line in the village centre, opposite to shop. To go it is necessary kilometres 5. Asphalt all becomes worse, then absolutely comes to an end. On an entrance the check point similar to volume, that on entrance in sinevirsky reserve is arranged. However, it does not work. Buildings everywhere boil – the set of cottages is erected. Here after all also the mountain-skiing line is with the longest in the Ukrainian Carpathians bugelnym the lift. We move river Pilipets on the fresh concrete bridge and we move upwards along a rivulet on a first coat which comes to an end parkovochnoj with a platform at the wooden bridge. Further on foot. The nature around the magnificent! Itself SHipot looks beautifully and impressively. Not so high (14), but deep enough. Speak, the falls in the spring, after thawing of snow are especially beautiful. But the present tourist Mecca it becomes in the first of July when here starts grandiose hippovsky festival "Шипот", zakachivajushchijsja Ivan Kupala's celebrating. Well, a place for a world and love holiday rather worthy.
And here we in Truskavets. For ten-day treatment-and-prophylactic rest have chosen sanatorium "»«½«¡¿¡á" (street Stebnitsky, 90; bodies: 51-413, 53-427). The main criterion, except the moderate price (234 grn. For two in a suite with a food and treatment), there was a presence of own medical infrastructure, switching on bjuvet – to go it is not necessary anywhere. All complex in the compact closed planted trees and shrubs territory with the big open pool which for some reason is called as lake. There is a cafe, a sauna, billiards, mangalnye platforms. The sleeping case is completely reconstructed. There are usual numbers and two-room lux with conditioners. All with conveniences, cable TV, electric kettles, hair dryers, ware. From minuses: an arrangement on city suburb (on departure aside Stebnika), absence of the beautiful nature and kinds (around any warehouses and motor depots), various, but the fast menu (on meat obviously save). But it is silent and quiet.
Naturally, long remain sitting on one place could not. Some times left on survey of vicinities. Have visited in Morshine which has made impression much more silent and stagnant, than Truskavets, a resort. The people have not enough, too it is a little sanatoria, an infrastructure weak. Here to have a rest we will not go. But has very much liked Sambir. The district has surprised with cleanliness, an abundance of ancient churches and monasteries, a 40-metre town hall and smart hotel "Империал" (square the Market, 4; bodies: (03236) 20-58). In St. Stanislav's church (XVIII century) The organ music hall (concerts on Saturdays at 11.00) where carry having a rest of Truskavets works. Well, also it was impossible to ignore the rests of the Old Russian city of Tustan on a rock under Urichem (a route colleagues have prompted). Very original rock formed once a basis for the wooden fortress IX-XIII centuries entering into uniform system of the Karpatsky line of defence of the Galitsky princedom and serving by customs point on a hydrochloric way from Drogobycha to Europe. Grooves and vyruby in a rock, the rests of a stone wall, a cave, a step, a well and two tanks for water were saved. This place also traditionally name rock Dovbusha (in general, across Ukraine it it is possible to count at least 5 of "rocks Dovbusha») though the nice hero had no relation to them. Present rocks Dovbusha – in natural boundary Gadzhina near to Morshina, near with. Bubnishche. There, according to legends, was born and the leader opryshkov has been buried. However, there we and have not reached. But have visited in Shidnitse where as speak, from under the earth the most correct flows "naftusja". Very picturesque place in mountains. It is not enough sanatoria, but there is an excellent private hotel «Dee Anna» (street S.Bandery, 12; bodies: (032) 484-8038). There is a small restaurant, a sauna, pool. I recommend for silent rest with high level of comfort (130-160 grn. For double).
So there have passed 10 days. Curative vodichka has made the kind business (however, it is considered, that the minimum course makes 20 days), and we at last felt had completely a rest. Our fortnight travel has ended. We came back to Kiev...