On locks - 2: easter round across the Western Ukraine

In Paradise it was not pleasant to us. I do not understand delights concerning this place. A garden small and a little started, without special sights. And the road there … Will reach not everyone. Much more pleasant impressions remained from CHortkova – very picturesque and cosy place. By the way, and resort Sataniv it is located in the same place, nearby. So, the choice is always.

Week trip on small cities of the western Ukraine we have decided to close gaping blanks in impressions of these regions, remained after the last travel which has grasped mainly regional centres and the main tourist centres. The first day of a trip dropped out just for Easter therefore to begin have solved with Kolomyi – the native land pisanki. Planned to visit some interesting places on Ternopolshchine Further and gradually to move to area of Lvov. And already therefrom, on road home to pay visit to the Pochaevsky Monastery and its vicinities. Here that at us it has turned out as a result: Kiev, Kolomyja (spending the night), Borshchiv, the Rock-Podolsk, Krivche, CHortkov (spending the night), Berezhany, Paradise, Truskavets (spending the night), Brjuhovichi, Lvov (spending the night), ZHovkva, Zbarazh, Kremenets, Dubno (spending the night), pochaev, Kiev. A route long and confused, but captured almost all places which us interested. It was necessary to hunt for the information on region on the Internet, where on zamkovuju a theme traditionally rulit a site "Locks and temples of Ukraine".

Kolomyja without kolomyek

As have easy reached Chernovtsy, and therefrom have taxied on Kolomyju. This district has simply amazed. The large quantity of brand new accurate cottages with pure open court yard, continually private little shops, stylish cafes and small restaurants, motels, beauty salons, etc. Usual district Snjatin looks as in any western provincial small town with the licked centre and the restored town hall. Wild contrast in comparison with the hammered villages of the same CHernigovshchiny on which went for a drive couple of weeks back. Private business here prospers and podpityvaet all around.

The same impressions and from Kolomyi. We have appeared in the city centre in easter evening when local residents slowly walked on paved small streets of the foot centre. It would Seem, neither in architecture, nor in people there is nothing especial, but sensation such as if it has appeared in Poland or, for example, Hungary. West influence is felt in cleanliness of streets (not only main!), in uhozhennosti facades of two-storeyed small houses, in a registration aesthetics kramnychek and kavjaren. Well and the special local dialect forcing not only to ask again each phrase, but also most to repeat twice told on literary Ukrainian language. 600 kilometres, with the account of stops, are passed for 8 hours. Certainly, it would be better to appear here still on Saturday evening to find morning of easter Sunday, but the purpose, in general, is reached – for Easter we in Kolomye. We go directly to hotel.

In the central street Chernovola the tourist centre consisting of a museum pisanki in the form of huge egg (works from 10 o'clock till 17 o'clock daily except Monday and the big holidays) and nearby brand new three-storyed hotel with the same name in an old building is allocated. Hotel "Писанка" (the avenue Chernovola, 41; bodies: (03433) 20-352) it is constructed all four years ago, very comfortable and cosy, there is a small restaurant and a supervised parking nearby. In a usual double room for 130 grn. There is a TV, phone, a minibar in a refrigerator and even heated floors in a bathroom! From variants it is possible to mention also hotel "Prikarpatye" (Grushevsky's street, 82 more cheaply; bodies: (03433) 27-880) – in appearance, the truth, very sovok.

Choice of points of public catering in a city small, but sound. The best restaurant considers "Zgarda" (avenue of Revival, 23; bodies: (03433) 32-971), that in 2 minutes of walking from hotel. On departure from a city towards Ivano-Frankovsk is remarkable "Kolyba" with ethnic cuisine. Also has been noticed certain «Wine pogrebok» on street Theatrical. One problem – for the big holidays many institutions including these, at all do not work. It was necessary to be content with classical restaurant "Carpathians" (street Theatrical, 15; bodies: (03433) 27-890) with an interior in style "modernist style" and big tonirovannymi windows vitrinnogo type. It was necessary to be satisfied with a local cuisine and colour of the small town – the museum and souvenir little shops for the reasons mentioned above did not work in this, next day.

This one more characteristic difference from east and central areas, familiar to those who happened in the Western Ukraine for Christmas or Easter. If in the same Kiev it as often happens, only an occasion is good to hoot, for what doors of all pubs are is invocatory opened to the west even to have supper in such days is problematic – since morning all go to church, and evenings spend in a family circle. After all even Russian word "holiday" occurs from concept "idle", in difference from the Ukrainian word "piously" …

From CHortkova in Paradise

Having returned in Borshchiv, we taxi on Krivche. Here this really interesting place. Having risen on short serpantinchiku on a hill, we find out two stone towers connected by a fragment of a fortification. It is everything, that remains from the lock of the middle of XVII century which few times tried to restore, but, eventually, have thrown this hopeless employment. However much more this village is known the cave "Crystal" (bodies. Of administration in Borshchiv: (03541) 37-646), one of the most interesting in Ukraine. For visitings 3 kilometres of galleries are opened. Visitors happens much, but the tourist infrastructure is not present in general, even road normal till now have not constructed. So to go better to dry weather, the direction will prompt the small index on a tree in the village centre. In this area many other caves – experts consider, that on Ternopolshchine there are the greatest plaster karstic caves in the world.

Again through Borshchiv on a Rock-Podolsk known still since XIV century for the lock, to belonging local princes. In the centre the attention involves at once a church of XVIII century From it we go down to the lock located on high more abruptly over Zbruchem. The main tower, parts of defensive walls and picturesque ruins magnificent a palace (the rests of former luxury were saved on a facade) was saved in due time. Similar, that the lock any more is not subject to restoration, but, at least, all territory is enough uhozhena, to climb on stones it is a pleasure. On entrance from party Borshchiva there is also a big park, but the hospital which has settled down there somehow beats off desire to walk. We knew in advance, that in small town recently have constructed high-grade and rather original on architecture a tourist complex "Vesta" (street Jurdiga, 1; bodies: (03541 51-431) with hotel, a bar and a sauna, but was still early enough, and to do in this remote place there was especially nothing, therefore the decision to move aside CHortkova was accepted.

This district named by name first owner of these earths Hedgehogs Chartkovsky, has made double impression. Having appeared in the centre, on the market area, and having looked round on the parties, it is possible to present very easily itself in the present provincial European medieval small town. All on a place: a dominating Dominican church (XVII century) A wooden town hall with hours, trading numbers with a colonnade, narrow curve paved small streets dispersing every which way. But each step aside reminds, that we only in the Ukrainian remote places. Everywhere a dirt, roads are broken to a terrifying condition and from everywhere the poverty multiplied by irresponsibility appears. The scandalous fact – perfectly saved fortress of XVII century (one time belonged to Pototskys), for the sake of which we, by and large here and have arrived, is not simply in the started condition. Around, absence of normal access roads and impracticality to visiting of tourists still it would be possible to understand heaps of dust – there is no money for the maintenance. But why in its territory now there is a PETROLEUM PRODUCTS warehouse!? Among an ancient laying there are gasoline tank trucks and tanks with soljaroj, in premises the office has settled down, and mighty walls play a role of a fence for all this economy! At once the fortress can to be found at all. From the market area it is necessary to go down downwards to small river Seret, to pass it on the bridge, to pass still to steam of quarters directly and on a fork to turn to the right to church – therefrom it is already visible.

Here it decided to stop off. From taxi drivers we learn, that the best in a city hotel "Aircraft carrier" (is considered Independence street; bodies: (03552) 21-830) near to the centre. As it is easy to guess, the owner served in due time on fleet. The sea attributes are present in everything, but all decor, both external, and internal, makes impression cheap amatorstva. Typical provincial kich. But there is a sauna with huge ten-metre pool and two jacuzzi (15 grn. From the person at an o'clock). « As semi-lux »numbers without conveniences (40 grn from the person), and"lux"as spaciousness from 2 to 6 persons (150 grn here are called. For number) are equipped by a bathroom with hot water. The restaurant with waitresses in the form of stewardesses by right has reputation of the best in a city, as alternative (street S.Bandery) cafe-bar" Youth "can serve in modern style only. In both institutions the average price of the basic dish makes nearby 5 grn. There is also a hotel more cheaply -"Getman"on street of Prince Vladimir, is closer to departure from a city towards Ivano-Frankovsk.

Next day we are put forward aside Lvovshchiny. On road it is necessary to visit one more small small town of Podolia – Berezhany. Since XVI century it is known for the unapproachable lock constructed in style of the Renaissance. The stronghold in present city park near to the central part of a city is located and now represents pity enough show, though and not deprived of former greatness. It very much the vivid example of the oboronno-palace architecture, which magnificence is felt till now in ruins. Restoration attempts, apparently, was not, and it is a pity. In due time the palace constructed with the assistance of the Italian masters, was famous for the riches. And now it is only filled up with mountains of dust a place for picnics of townspeople – kostrishcha are seen everywhere on a courtyard.

The foot city centre is closed for journey, but we impudently park directly at a town hall. Walk occupies not less than hour. Here it is full of architecture monuments: street Armenian with the lop-sided ancient small houses and the Armenian church (1764), St. Nikolay's powerful defensive church (1683), not less strengthened Bernardinsky monastery (XVII century), set of ancient public buildings and private houses. On the market area the Greco-catholic church of a St. Trinity (XVII century) is allocated And the Town hall in style of classicism. Between them narrow medieval small streets, partially moshchyonnye wind. The central part rather pure and well-groomed. If there is a desire to have a bite – to you in restaurant "Anatole" (square the Market, 7). A pleasant interior, good service and cheap (6 grn. For the basic dish) qualitative kitchen are provided. To spend the night at sharp necessity it is possible in hotel "Бережаны" (square the Market, 9; bodies: (03548) 21-372), known in due time as hotel "Europe". From former level of service there was, unfortunately, only a name.

It is necessary to visit only Paradise. So the suburb Berezhan where the park and a palace (XVII century) is located is called . On a legend, the name to this man-made corner of wildlife was given by a beloved of one of Berezhan Adam Sinjavskogo Eve's owners. Guess, that has pushed it on such association. ;) The hunting lodge at bottom of the Wolf mountain initially here settled down. New owners have constructed of Pototsky's nice family on this place a summer palace and have broken the big park. The road to Paradise not for nervous – to make the way between ruts again taki it is better on dry weather. Now the park does not make special impression, at least in comparison with Pototsky's other dendrology creations. And the palace is as a matter of fact only small private residence in which the children's sanatorium is now located. And once here accepted Peter I and Ivan Mazepa. And necessarily pay attention to a skeleton of a huge 700-year-old oak a grasp in 7 metres. Speak, under it had a rest once Bogdan Khmelnitskiy.

Round Lvov

M-yes … the Small town has pleasantly surprised. We expected to see a typical Soviet resort, and have got to very picturesque place with interesting history, original architecture and a rich tourist infrastructure. Carved wooden cottages and country houses have most of all liked, many of which already have more than 100 years. In two most elaborate the museum of artist Ivan Bilasa and a city museum are now located. Some private residences now restore and repair – they are cases of sanatoria. Is and already restored. The hilly park with big old bjuvetom in the centre has very much liked. Well and curative vodichka, all which vivifying properties can be tested only on a place – in some days of storage it becomes usual mineral water. Here very much it would be desirable to spend a week-other of quiet rest when traditional mad race on cities and vesjam the immense Native land will bother.

Concerning residing variants see "Hotel Lvovshchiny" page where there is an exhaustive list with co-ordinates, short descriptions and quotations. We most of all liked brand new tryohzvyozdochnaja hotel «Mariot Medikal the Center» (street Roksolany, 6; bodies: (03247) 51-118, 66-127). It is located practically in the centre, in a silent lane. Very good double rooms (156 grn.) with all conveniences, the TV, phone, an electric kettle. In semi-lux (264 grn.) and lux (364 grn.) There is even a mini-kitchen. It is possible to pay at once for a food, but it seemed to us excessive. The matter is that the restaurant works under the rigid schedule and it is necessary to do the order in advance – any improvisation. And for us meal, it not necessity, and a cult. :) Here with it in a city there is a small problem. No, restaurants are, some very much even good, but deficiency is felt. In the evenings happens difficultly to find an empty seat. Besides in many excellent places it is forbidden to smoke, that to us unequivocally does not approach. But we to ourselves nevertheless could suit a good supper.

The fourth day of travel has been devoted Galichchine. After farewell walk across Truskavets have gone to Lvov. But at first have deviated on 30 km to the west where for Borislav there is a village Naguevichi – Ivan Franko's native land (on the majority of maps and atlases the old name is specified: with. Ivan Franko). Whenever possible I recommend to glance – on a place of manor of a family something Ex operates like a museum open-air, and opposite, in a modern building, there is a literary museum and gallery of the Ukrainian writers. Therefrom, through Drogobych, it is easy to taxi to Lvov. To begin with we have decided to visit in Brjuhovichah – the Lvov suburb which is considered as one of the basic zones of rest. The place basically was pleasant: pine woods, lakes (one of them have just lowered and cleaned tractors on the eve of a beach season), set of brand new leased private cottages and minihotels. On entrance to a resort zone – excellent restaurant. There are also other institutions, including the whole entertaining complexes, such as "Kolyba". Co-ordinates again taki on "Hotel Lvovshchiny" page. As exotic it is possible to call in to look on main in Ukraine the centre of Witnesses Iegovy is a whole complex of buildings in the closed territory. But specially from Kiev here to go special sense is not present. To us this day was to be spent in a city therefore have organised inspection of several inexpensive hotels to the Lvov measures.

Earlier we usually spent the night in "Companion", but this time it wanted to replace conditions. Located in the same area "Getman" somehow at once has not liked, and the prices for good numbers (235 grn.) have seemed a little unfairly the high. Hotel "НТОН" outwardly looked not bad, involved with the democratic prices (from 120 grn.), but there we at all have not glanced – has frightened off an arrangement in promzone over a brisk line and near to the big railway junction. A choice have stopped on motel "Jockey", located on entrance to a city from party Stryja in a hippodrome complex. On days off from May till September from a balcony it is possible to observe of jumps. There is a cafe-bar (works till 23:00), a sauna (50 grn./ch), paid parking place. There are numbers with conveniences (120-200 grn) and without (50 grn.) . In all there is a TV, modern furniture. On district there are also other similar motels, for example at entrance from Kiev it is convenient to stop in "Viking" though here is a little bit more expensive (190 grn.). And in the centre rather cheaply (from 140 grn.) it is possible to lodge in old Soviet hotel "Lvov".

The description of sights of Lvov I will lower is remains a theme of the separate story to which, I hope, hands will sometime reach. UNESCO has knowingly switched on it in the list of the world heritage. As it is infinitely possible to describe and picturesque Lvov small restaurants and kavjarni. I will mention only in what most of all it was pleasant. Cafe-bar "Эскалибур" (street Armenian, 3) – an interior in style of the Krakow vegetable marrows with vaulted brick walls, wooden beams and the forged decor. Cosy and cheaply – 10 grn. For the basic dish. Restaurant "Амадей" (square Katedralnaja, 7; bodies: (0322) 97-80-22) – in my opinion, the best restaurant in a city. The classical ancient European interior with set of the details which have been picked up with the big taste, is played in the evenings by pleasant, quiet live music. A magnificent European cuisine – my applause the head cook! Though and it is not cheap even for kievljan – 30 grn. For the basic dish. And after midnight easy to sit, sipping beer or cognac it is possible in club "Split" pub (Mickiewicz's square, 6/7; bodies: (0322) 98-71-33). To attempt better in other place – 30 grn. For a meat dish here hardly there is a sense to give.

And next day we have visited one of the most remarkable small small towns of Ukraine – ZHovkvu, that in 30 km on the north from Lvov. For the first time it is mentioned as village Vinniks in 1242 – from the name clearly, that the winemaking was the basic craft of inhabitants. And the city has received the present name on a surname volodarja these earths of Polish magnate Stanislav Zholkevskogo. The medieval centre was saved almost in a primordial form. On the main area the powerful lock with unapproachable walls (1594-1606) is located Near to which cosy park "Menagerie" (once here really held wild animals in cages) was stretched. Any time it was magnificent residence of Polish king Yana Sobesskogo III, then here there lived representatives of glorified Lithuanian sort Radzivillov. And now it is the real manned fortress! In its premises the high school, city court and simply inhabited apartments is located. On an internal court yard the linen dries, its inhabitants dig up kitchen gardens. In ancient subsidiary premises of a stone laying hen houses and sheds are equipped. And all it looks very organically and naturally. The market area with a church of a Dominican monastery (1655) And a town hall very pure and tidy. All architectural monuments are supported in a good condition. Thus the city is not adapted absolutely not for reception of tourists. Personally I managed to learn about existence only one old hotel (street Total, 4; bodies: (03265) 42-142), and that without hot water. The main area has restaurant "Жовква", and near to serf collars – kafeshka with a summer platform. Here, actually, and all. But all the same a place this very atmospheric and cosy. To all who is going to on rest to Lvov, very much I recommend to visit, the blessing to reach is possible minutes for 20.

Zbarazh-Kremenets-Pochaev

This place associates at once with Genrika Senkevich's well-known novel «Fire and we throw», the film masterpiece of Pole Goffmana with the same name and «our answer» to it in the form of a weak tape of Ukrainian Mashchenko «Bogdan Khmelnitskiy». Here the drama ending of Cossack emancipating war of XVII century when Khmelnitskiy, besieging Poles, hardly was was developed has not taken prisoner the Polish king who went to the aid of garrison Zbarazha with the army. Ally Bogdana, the Crimean khan has rescued from utter defeat Yana II Kazimira then the Islam-weight which has unexpectedly risen on protection of Poles. The peace treaty has been signed, war has ended and as a result to the Cossack state the part of Left-bank Ukraine has departed only.

The protagonist of those events was zbarazhsky the lock constructed in 1626-1631 under the project of Italian architect Skamotstsi. It is interesting by unusually correct forms and strict functionality. The complex consists of the defensive shaft, four bastions, an entrance tower, casemates and a palace in style of the Renaissance. Now there the museum (works daily from 10.00 till) which most part of an exposition is made by products local "myttsiv" is located. To look at our visiting, by and large, there was nothing. Unless it was necessary to glance in cellars with a mysterious oval room and a column in the middle about which purpose different legends go. On one of versions, on such columns there is all palace and, in case of extreme necessity, having blown up them, it was possible to destroy all building. And someone considers, what is it simply chamber of tortures. However a month later after our visit to the lock have opened a museum of the medieval weapon and regimentals (originals and the copies made by a workshop of the Lvov museum "Arsenal") that is obvious dobaljaet interest to this object. And from a viewing platform in park on a grief Zamkovoj the magnificent panorama of a city where the majestic church of a monastery bernardintsev (1627) dominates opens.

In one of the former casemates of the lock very stylish restaurant "Legend" (bodies now is located. Of administration: (03550) 21-752, 22-312), but works it only under the order – it is necessary to call in advance. Without any ceremonies it is possible to have dinner at restaurant «Knjazhy hailstones» in city centre, near to the main area where usually carry Poles. In the same place the pizzeria has been noticed. The normal hotel in a city is not present, tourists usually stop in Ternopol. High-grade turkompleks on the basis of the former private residence of the commandant of a fortress while only in the project. Time yet later – we go in Kremenets – here too many sights, and the main thing – enough quite good private motel (street Dubensky, 53; bodies: (03546) 23-883, 24-819). It is located practically in city centre. There is a sauna and protected parking place. The double room with conveniences costs 80 grn.

First of all us, as well as all tourists, the mountain Zamkovaja known also as mountain of the Check, with ruins of the lock of XIII century One of few fortresses whom tataro-Mongols could not grasp involves. The lock has been destroyed in 1648 Maxim Krivonosa's by armies. And in due time it directed horror at neighbouring inhabitants not less, than lock Drakuly in Transylvania. The queen of the Check from sort Sfortsa, the Italian by origin, the wife of Polish king Sigizmunda І was its last mistress. On one of legends, aspiring to save a youth, she bathed in blood devstvennets. Now on a grief Zamkovoj there were two towers and ruins of lateral walls with loopholes. Also it is possible to examine a monumental complex of cult constructions with a church (1743), Bogdanovu a chapel constructed Khmelnitskiy, a Cossack cemetery of XVII century, well-known kremenetskie "houses-twins".

To stay the night we all the same have solved in Dubno as the sauna in Kremenetsky motel has been occupied, and with entertainments for the evening in a city especially you will not be dispersed. And conditions hotel "Дубно" (street D. Galitskogo, 53; bodies: (03656) 4-18-02) gives much best (the prices from 50 to 240 grn. For number). The hotel is recently restored under euro-standards. There is a good restaurant where we and have spent last evening travel.

First half of next day completely is devoted excursion on one of the main orthodox relics of Ukraine – the Pochaevsky Monastery. A construction simply magnificent, gold domes on a grief shine in sun beams on an entrance to pochaevu, and the peal is carried on 4 km on vicinities. The monastery in 1240 is based by the Kiev monks rescued from the tataro-Mongolian invasion. The main relic – a print of foot of the Mother of god, whence flows sacred water. On a legend, the print remained on a stone on that place where one of monks has seen an image of the Virgin in a fiery pillar. Over this place in a consequence the Uspensky cathedral has been built, and for is salutary vodichkoj pilgrims gather from all world. The wonder-working icon of the Pochaevsky mother of god, in XVII century rescued a monastery from the Tatars who have besieged it is not less known. As speak, to the aid of the monks armed only with this icon, has come then «heavenly troops». Now the icon travels all over the world, and the copy is stored in a monastery. Pototsky's same glorified family has taken a hand in monastery creation all. The input on territory free (women should be with the covered head and it is obligatory in skirts – it it is possible to take all in time using in an excursion bureau), excursion costs one and a half grivna from the person, its young novices spend.

The travel ending has turned out simply remarkable. Home we came back in excellent mood which was spoilt even places by strongly broken road. By the way, a site between Radivilovym and exactly now expand to four strips. Scales of jobs not such grandiose as on the Odessa line, but job boils. And I need to sum only up. Travel has occupied 6 days (5 spending the night). There are passed 2250 km., basically on average and poor quality roads. In a tank for this time has burnt down about 170 litres of gasoline. The general budget has made almost $500 for two. As practice has shown, almost in each western region interesting to the tourist now is, where with comfort to spend the night and spend time. Well and sights will suffice yet on one trip.