Podolia-Zakarpate: Two broken towers

«It is a fantasy! I do not know, where we have received more impressions, in Romania or in Ukraine!». When we were excused with Dimkoj, Oksana and Katjuhoj on district Novograd-Volynsk, the head of "undermined" family Grehovyh from St.-Petersburg did not stop to admire seen for two transit journeys across Ukraine. We and were in a shock. Only 9 days and more than thirty unique places, more than hundred every possible objects! A part from them we oblazili in the company cheerful pitertsev when our ways were twice crossed. «Cross roads» for this time became our liked toast. So has developed, that planned by us for May holidays a trip on Ternopolshchine, Hmelnitchine and Zakarpatju, has partially coincided with their plans to visit the most interesting places in the Western Ukraine on road to Romania and back. After long dialogue on the Internet, a sin was will not meet with Grehovym personally.

The preliminary plan was such: Kiev – Novograd-Volynsk – Korets – Kremenets – Vishnevets – Ternopol – some sights Ternopolshchiny – Kamenets-Podolsk – some sights Hmelnitchiny – Chernovtsy – Kolomyja – Goverla – Solotvino – the Valley of narcissuses. And further – on circumstances. Last point was the most important thing. So to all also spoke – we go to the Valley of narcissuses. Something should be changed on a course, but the program have executed completely. And even have exceeded. The trip has turned out very thorough, tried not to pass interesting place any in the slightest degree.

Uncertainty of known places

The further researches have continued in Novograd-Volynsk, that in 90 km to the west. As follows from the Ipatievsky annals, we indifferently passed all this time by the ancient city of Zvjagel with almost thousand-year history. Some sources connect the name with a name of the prince Zvjagilsky, others translate a word "zvjagel" as "rich" or "magnificent". Riches and splendours of a city has reduced at first Danilo Galitsky, and then mongolo-Tatars. And to revive it in XVI century there has begun the prince Ostrozhsky, having constructed on coast Slucha the lock. Its rests we have arrived to search. Any indexes, naturally, no. A route such: having called in in the centre, it is necessary to turn on street between a cinema and department store. In the end there will be a monument Wood to the Ukrainian and the culture House. Behind it also it is necessary to search for a piece of a wall and a lonely tower. During Soviet times ruins "have improved" and now they remind a children's playground with the fake lock. More city is known as the native land of writer Lesi of the Ukrainian. In such case, we even have glanced in a literary-memorial museum (K.Marx's street, 94), located in its paternal house with more modern extension, than have broken calmness weaned from visitors smotritelnitsy.

Following settlement, transit we have roughly broken whose status, were Korets (an accent on the first syllable). The index on Koretsky a monastery, I think, noticed everyone who moved on the district. This time we have decided to turn. The Piously-Troitsk female monastery (1620) is located almost in the centre of small town. The architecture of special impression does not make. Two facts are interesting only: here there is a tomb of countess Anna Andro de Lanzheron, sung by Pushkin in a poem "I liked you..." And that the monastery remained operating even during an epoch of the Soviet persecutions on religion. It is more interesting to find ruins of the lock Ostrozhsky (XV-XVIII centuries) Which here too hide behind the culture house (opposite to a supermarket – on the left, by church). Similar, the authorities have paid attention to a pitiable condition of the lock more recently. At death's door, but very picturesque arch bridge through a ditch have dressed in woods, but other signs of restoration jobs it is not visible. The lock Card – tryohjarusnaja an entrance tower, it it is visible even with district. Studying of ruins has occupied a few time, we move further.

Easy dinner in "Sofia" on Rovno district, further – Dubno, and from it – on the Ternopol line. The purpose – Vishnevets. But to drive simply so by Krementsa we can not. Sights of the bottom city are already enough studied by us, but very much it would be desirable to rise on the Check in good weather. Conducts on street Zamkovaja mountain (in the centre – turn through the bridge under the index «Меблі on zamovlennja»), paved a rough stone. To call in it is possible to the very top (almost 400 m above sea level). To make it it is necessary! From top, where the Kremenetsky lock has settled down (XIII century), wonderful kinds on a vicinity open. As is known, the name the mountain has received by name the Italian queen Checks Sfortsa which her husband considered to the unapproachable lock has presented in 1536, Polish king Sigizmund I. Officially it is considered, that the queen in Krementse never was, but legends about it – set (I already mentioned them in one of the previous reports).

And here the residence of magnates of Vishnevetsky us has not impressed. We have arrived in Vishnevets towards evening when the museum in a palace has been already closed, so, have probably, simply missed something interesting. A palace (XV-XVIII centuries) though big and with restoration traces, looks now not very well. Even the arising pig-iron fencing was not saved. I was interested only by a bas-relief over a portal on which symbols of Christianity are in an original way combined, Moslem and a Judaism. To search for a palace follows so: at the big crossroads near the bridge through small river – turn under the index on Zaleztsy, on «triangular circular movement» – to the right and at once on the left, to collars. And here on opposite, flat coast of small river Goryn rather remarkable ruins are seen. I can assume only, what is it there was a church-tomb of princes Vishnevetsky (1530).

At last, the first big halt – Ternopol. By councils of predecessors at once we go to hotel "Alligator" (street Gaevaja, 29; bodies: (0352 22-7172, 22-7391). The prices there have increased recently (from 250 grn. For double), but also the status has grown – hotel is proud carries on a breast of the whole three stars. Not so deservedly. To numbers of claims is not present – all top-level, but in the rest service limps. Has especially inspired presence of own car wash that is very actual after the whole day not the purest roads. Unfortunately, it for any reasons did not work. And most of all strains far not the central arrangement seasoned with awfully broken road. Later, for the sake of interest, have checked up hotel "Ternopol" (street Zamkovaja, 14; bodies: (0352 22-4397) where looked somehow two years ago. It too sports now three stars. The prices have here too grown, but service remained sovok. And the cosiest, but very not cheap otelchik (350 grn. ) Have found then in a foot zone. It is hotel "Central" (street Shevchenko, 25; bodies: (0352 23-5211, 25-3516), the former "Ukraine". In total some numbers, all lux. The interesting feature which is not allowing hotel to apply on zvyozdnost, that is not present retsepshena – the manager needs to be called by means of a call. Practically are absent also other otelnye "excesses": bars, a casino, saunas, pools etc.

For a supper have got out in «Old mlyn» (street Brodovsky, 1а). The place very much was pleasant an excellent interior with national motives, pleasant service and a good Ukrainian cuisine. The supper has managed in 150 grn. For two. In a city it is a little alternatives to this institution. For example, it is possible to sit over lake in a bar-restaurant "Maxim" (street Biletsky, 1) which it is direct under the lock. Well, or "Classic" (bul. Shevchenko, 25) in the same building, as hotel "Central" is as follows from the name, for fans of solid interiors, an European cuisine, «musical service» and waiters in white shirts with butterflies. It is more than anything standing have not found out. Probably, badly searched, but also the purpose such was not.

To survey a city have gone in the morning, having parked in the centre, near to the lock Koritovsky (street Zamkovaja, 12). With it also have begun survey. To tell the truth, not foreknowing, what is it also there is a lock, at a sight from street would accept it for a usual office building. The national flag and the tablet testifies to its such present purpose at an input. Absolutely simple "rectilinear" architecture, almost full absence of an external decor, modern plaster hides a 500-year-old laying and the same ancient history. The lock at various times belonged to the whole ten noble families among which Tarnovsky, Ostrozhsky, Sobesky, etc. Once it has been enclosed by ditches, walls and towers, but last owner – columns Koritovsky – in XIX century has adapted it under a palace, having cleaned superfluous architectural forms and having added with small park and a simple fencing. Little bit more impressively the lock looks from lake.

Ternopol pond (becoming) – too original sight. The river in the centre of the big city – business usual, and here lake – a rarity. A reservoir artificial, almost same ancient, as well as a city. 450 years ago it served the first inhabitants of Ternopol as as a defence element, and a source of fresh fish. Modern ternopolchanam is exclusively a source relaksa. We with pleasure have joined them, having spent half an hour on slow walk on quay and adjoining park.

Further have gone to a foot zone, by a monument to Daniel Galitskomu and a majestic Cathedral of Immaculate conception Presvjatoj of Maiden Maria (byv. A Dominican church, 1749). The old city was partially saved also by places restored. Some corners very much remind provincial European small towns. Outstanding architectural monuments practically are not present. Specially to glance I will advise unless in «the Venetian court yard» buildings of "School Ljudovej Society» on street Shevchenko, 1. To bypass all it is possible in an hour, but it is not necessary to hurry up here not to miss possibility to experience a slow rhythm of the Ternopol life.

Four strongholds

Mikulintsy it is passed, here we already were during a March trip in JAremchu. Further – Terebovlja. We go to the centre, being guided on high mountain obviously zamkovogo character. Precisely, also the bus with the Polish tourists (they on May in this area gad crowds) here taxis up. From a small public garden the small street leads to collars in park behind which the pedestrian lifting to the Terebovljansky lock (1631) begins. Despite preservation attempts, a condition not so good. However, a general impression about a former power to combine it is possible – the basic constructions (the walls, three towers, entrance gate) were saved. On walls for which breakage and height, to climb a little bit strashnovato. But panoramas excellent! But it is necessary to give way to Poles. They after all from such distance pyorlis, that zatsenit unapproachable advanced posts of "the earth».

It would be necessary to return to the centre, to consider more attentively a defensive Karmelitsky monastery (1635-39), the Nikolaev church (XVI-XVII centuries) and something the town hall which has attracted to me, but, roofing felts laziness prevails, roofing felts aspiration to appear in a new place faster, and we move on departure from a city to search sacred Zarvanitsu.

From what party you would not go to one of the main relics Greek-Catholics – from Ternopol, Chernovtsy or Ivano-Frankovsk – special efforts to search to apply it is not necessary. It is located just between Terebovlej, Buchachem and Pidgajtsami, and from all basic lines in it you will be resulted by indexes. On an entrance to eye village blinds gold of domes located hardly aside a complex of cult constructions. An input free, the clothes form is regulated rather liberally (to men it is impossible in shorts, to women – in short skirts and with open shoulders).

At once amazes scope. The cathedral of Zarvanitsky Divine Mother on a hillock seems huge, the belltower rests against the sky, the area with gravelly paths and lawns reminds in the sizes a football ground. All constructions brand new and sparkling. The complex has been restored from zero to the 2000 anniversary of Christmas Christ's. Once all here was much more modest. The legend very much reminds pochaevskuju – the monastery was based here in XIII century by the Kiev monk running from the tataro-Mongolian invasion. Here, near a sacred source, in a dream Maiden Maria materialised in the form of the Wonder-working icon which miracle properties were estimated by Pope Py IX was to it, having crowned it in 1867 Since then the small village Zarvanitsa became a place of mass pilgrimage. Disgraces were put an end by the Bolsheviks who were not recognising Greek-Catholicism as the religion in general. A monastery have made even to the earth. But the icon managed to be rescued, and parishioners continued to spend services is underground. Now every year on June, 26-27th here the huge sea of pilgrims is flown down. The icon is stored in church of the Sacred Trinity in the village centre, but she can to be found – it happens often in travelling.

Having become impregnated with powerful power of this fantastic place and having drunk sacred voditsy from a source, we have gone further. Our way laid through Buchach. Here we too had time to be noted in March, but have noticed then nearby village Pidzamochok. As it is easy to assume, here too there are interesting ruins. From the basic line it is necessary to curtail in the centre of village near small church. Through some honeycombs of metres of a first coat we leave to the lock buchachskogo voevody Yana Tvorovskogo, whose arms decorate entrance gate. Any histories and the legends connected with it, I have not found out. There is only a construction date – 1600 not ruins, and a panorama which opens from edge of an external shaft Most of all impress: outlines Buchacha on a hill in a distance, the picturesque relief, a twisted tape Strips below … As all the same many such remarkable places to Podolia, chosen once the nobility under the residences. And as it is healthy to travel in these places in the beginning of May. Happens, you move on any minor road simply in the tunnel from fruit trees blossoming by white colour!

Aside this time remains Zolotyj potik. To a line Ternopols-Chernovtsy we come back through JAzlovets. In the centre strongly started Uspensky church (1590) towers beautiful, but. And here St. Nikolay's even more ancient Armenian church of simple architecture - is restored. The main road conducts uphill, and soon on the right there are gate of the former sanatorium which has settled down during Soviet times for territories of the family lock Jazlovetsky (XIV century) . The stronghold has some circles. In the top, most ancient and powerful part over which the television tower sticks out to get it is not possible – on collars with a magnificent portal the lock hangs. The bottom lock in XVII century have reconstructed and following owners Konetspolsky and Ponjatovsky have transformed into a cosy palace. It was saved much better, especially after cases have returned in the order of sisters of Immaculate conception of Maiden Maria (now they divide premises with sanatorium). But all the same surrounding territory looks very slovenly.

In with. Tolstoy it is taxied on the Ternopol line. Through some kilometres – turn on Gorodenku. To us here, we go to search for road on CHervonograd. At a following crossroads – to the right. (Nagorjany) and soon the road deduces One more village on the top edge of the big crater (or gorges) with red slopes. We already on the Moon? Slightly not reaching to with. Nyrkiv – congress downwards, begins a stony first coat. From a panorama grasps spirit! Between low mountains with almost steep walls – very picturesque valley. And in the centre, on a hill, - two classical round zamkovye towers with zubchikami. Full sensation of unreality as though you look «the Lord of rings». Accurately we go down downwards.

Once it was the present royal city. Exact date of the basis is unknown. Assume, that the first, wooden fortress was constructed still by Russian princes. Kazimir Great has seized it in XIV century, and later Vladislav Jagajlo has presented to its princes Svidrigajlo and Vitold. The stone fortress has arisen in XVII century, and in 1778 Karol Poninsky has reconstructed it in a palace in Neogothic style, having saved and having reconstructed two towers. Last owners were Ljubomirsky. Now it is possible to admire only that remains after two World wars and more more destructive Soviet period when pioneer camp "Camomile" here has located. Ruins of the mausoleum Poninsky and a Catholic chapel were saved also. The impression supplements the biggest flat falls of Ukraine Dzhurin which deaf roar is well audible from entrance to the lock. On each side a powerful stream traces of any stone constructions (possibly, a water-mill) are obviously visible. It is a pity, that any photo cannot pass real impressions and sensations of this beauty. It is necessary to go and look simply …

Impressions will suffice for today. We go to search for a lodging for the night. Tomorrow agreed to meet in Kamentse-Podolsk acquaintances from Peter, but the proring of all known hotels has shown, that it is better to look for kojko-places somewhere else. Chernovtsy already absolutely close so the choice is obvious. Here I notice, that among listings there is no page with hotels of Chernovtsy. It is a pity. Means, to specify and fill up base it will not turn out. We go there where spent the night somehow in the autumn, on road to Romania. I remember the blessing, road. Big hotel "Черемош" *** (street Komarova, 13а; bodies: (03722) 47-5-8, 47-500) for these one and a half year has not changed at all, only has risen in price. The standard for 134 grn. Us has not inspired, it was necessary to pay 266 grn. For a junior suite which is little bit better, but all the same the money it is not necessary. Administratorsha has fairly warned what to eat to us here it will not be possible – in connection with Easter all hotel taverns were closed before. Moreover, the breakfast too will not be! It in tryohzvyozdochnoj to hotel!!! Here it is people celebrate … Speak, it for the first time here all is so serious with observance of ceremonies. But we know, where it is possible to indulge in a gluttony sin even in such evening! In "Knause" (street Main, 26а) it is always populous. The quite good choice of German beer, but casting still is not present. But service pleasant is very tasty also.

Kamenetchina: Attacks to Entrenchments

Has formally sat down concerns the Ternopol area, but actually it is located just on a joint of three areas: Ternopol, Khmelnitskiy and Chernovitsky. The name also speaks for itself. In this place Zbruch, merging with Dnestr, forms the high extended peninsula with the narrow isthmus which strategic value is simply obvious. In an extreme antiquity people have added a natural defensive complex with very tall shaft and deep ditches. And in XVII century koronnyj the hetman of Speech Pospolitoj Stanislav Jan Jablonovsky has erected on a place of a site of ancient settlement a fortress Entrenchments of the Sacred Trinity for blockade supervised by Turks Kamentsa. Directly along the main street there are saved Kamenetsky and Lvov gate, between them – ruins of a church of XVIII century, and over the river – the rests of a patrol tower. All is very interesting, but here we are trapped at once by two troubles. First, roads on spring here repair by means of terrible bitumen – second time in a life in this place, and second time the car from wheels almost to a roof in black splashes. And sinks because of Easter do not work … Secondly, having returned to the car, have found out, that firm shildik on a luggage carrier is torn off half by the most barbarous way, obviously, by means of a knife or a screw-driver. Juvenile shpana turned before it near to the Polish bus and when the bus has left, our poor machine remained it on rasterzane. Abydna … But there is nothing, at us still all travel ahead.

From zhvanetskogo the lock at the moment almost remains nothing. Having looked at ruins for a moment, we go in Bakotu. A reference point – with. Old Ushitsa. Road remote and places bad enough. It is necessary to overcome Podolsk Tovtry – mountains low, but easy streamers and passes are available. On an entrance to Ushitse – the index on a monastery, begins a first coat. It deduces on high coast of Dnestr. Attention! Before descent to a monastery it is necessary to drive kilometre-two to the right, along coast, on field edge. But in crude weather (even if already has slightly dried up) categorically I do not recommend it to do! Tourist buses reasonably remain with a crossroads. We have driven simply by miracle, considering, that some times at travelling was necessary to move down from the rolled and dried up track on strong in appearance, but is perfect masloobraznyj under a thin crust the opened chernozem. And on road at once a little legkovushek was engaged amicable vytaskivaniem each other from a dirt (our help has appeared superfluous). Well everything, have arrived.

And again these "mad" kinds from which again breaks our distressful towers. :) Very large Dnestr in this place (all the same a water basin) merges with small small river Rusky, forming gulfs and peninsulas. All is surrounded very tall kruchami – the channel was washed out by many millenia. The rocky monastery has settled down on a calcareous spur of White mountain. Descent, basically, short, but enough abrupt – it is necessary podnaprjachsja.

The greatest impression makes a monastery the antiquity and singularity. Only three small caves and altarnaja the niche, but history … Once, in XIII century, Bakota was capital of all Old Russian ponizovja. At mountain top there was a feudal castle, around settled down posad. The monastery has been based even earlier, presumably in XI century Though that has taken a hand in its organisation Antony Pechersky, believed somehow hardly. Tatars have then come, and all has ended. Destruction business was finished by the nature – in XV century the mountain has fallen off and has buried a monastery. Have dug out and have restored it in XVIII century And cult purpose to it have returned only recently and now sometimes spend services. The minimum tourist infrastructure is organised also: a handrail along a footpath, a table and benches for interested persons to have a bite, sources with potable water, a latrine in a picturesque box under a hanging rock. The people nearby even with tents settle down on postoj, and I understand them …

On a way back we contact with pitertsami. They spent the night in Vinnitsa and now have just reached to Kamentsa. Search of places in kamenetskih result hotels yet has not given – all is occupied for some days forward (we and know, rang out). At last, joyful news – is found out private minihotel! Places are and for us. We approach on the ordinary-looking two-storeyed house near which it is parked "Harmony" with Petersburg numbers, and Dimka already joyfully waves hands. Short negotiations with the owner, and for 100 grn. We receive keys from spacious number with decent furniture, but without a bathroom (only one on a floor). Good, it is trifles. But we spend the night in one of the most liked cities. The main thing – a huge loggia with a smart kind on a fortress! On it also have spent evening after walk on a city and a supper in «Під bramoju» (eh, each time service all is worse, and the worthy alternative in a city and is not present). Have sat up late behind a tea wine-glass. Are familiar, as a matter of fact, only the first day, and already as old friends. How remarkably to meet in a life of adherents!

The description of sights Kamentsa this time I will lower (the interested I send to the report on one of last trips). It is a little only about hotels, with which on May such deficiency. Demand gives rise to the offer. Well-founded tourists can lodge now with comfort directly in the centre of the Old city. For number in smart minihotel "Гетьман" (street the Polish market, 8; bodies: (067) 588-2215, 763-152) it is necessary to lay out at least 350 grn. – the European prices! And near to "Filvarki-centre" has appeared new modern "Gala-Hotel" (street Lesi of the Ukrainian, 84; bodies: (03849) 28-106, 36-777, 30-805). 180 grn. For double with all conveniences it is already closer to true. But on May to reserve it is necessary very much in advance.

Morning children-pitertsy have devoted to the Old fortress, and we – to those corners of the Old city where had not time to reach earlier. On departure have observed jumpers from the bridge «Running fallow deer» (among us daredevils were not), have darted last glance on fantastic kamenetsky a canyon and have moved a minicolumn on the south. Even were delighted, that has not developed with a dinner in Kamentse. There was an occasion to call in in "Kolybu" (with. Gavrilovtsy, 15 km. A Chernovitsky line) to try local national vkusnostej and to visit the old friend a bear to whom have already constructed a new cage of the big sizes as also it for a year fairly vymahal. Dimke with family we still promised Hotin. Their delight was quite sincere, and we have again felt something like roof failure (I will repeat once again this such actual slengovyj a turn). The lock and made earlier indelible impression, and now it also actively restore. Similar, in a complex of barracks the hotel of type Polish zamkovyh hotels will soon open.

On it our ways temporarily disperse. Fascinating travel across Romania is necessary to children, and we go in Zakarpate. There also we will meet once again.

On that party of Carpathians

Ahead at us was Goverla! We yet did not know, that before July on the highest point of Ukraine (2061) to be put without special equipment it is not necessary. While have reached to Deljatina, in Tatarove – turn on Vorohtu, and behind it – to the right, under the index on Goverlu. Soon – KP, it is necessary to pay for journey to Karpatsky national natural reserve. Here us also disappoint – Goverla all in snow, to go there to usual tourists categorically do not recommend. But there is an alternative – to rise on the next top, to a meteorological station. It is necessary to agree.

Following 15 km it is necessary to strain. «A presidential route» (who not in a course, the ascension on Goverlu is Victor Yushchenko's hobby, original annual pilgrimage) to the status while in any way does not correspond. Road very bumpy and at once there are thoughts on change gentle "Karizmy" on a good jeep with all pontami: a frame and not cutting beam behind. However, what for it clumsy is necessary on civil roads? Something is necessary an average … What is it I? About it we were going to only in the autumn to reflect. While once again we test for reliability creation of the Japanese car industry most advantageously adapted to Ukrainian (read – bad) to roads.

We reach sport base "Zarosljak", to the sources of the Rod. Here it is possible to hand over for symbolical money the car under protection and to choose to itself a suitable route (lifting on Goverlu occupies one and a half hour). The track to a meteorological station conducts along an ice stream. Approaching to it, already you feel cold whiff. From summer we get at winter. Snow on a belt – upasi the God to descend from the trampled down footpath. And there the foot, happens, fails on most … at whom that. :) Lifting by places is enough abrupt. But as it is healthy to knead bones after office and automobile armchairs! Well, and the lifting ending costs that. It is pleasant to realise, that we at height of 1460 m above sea level though a part of this height have overcome on the car. To the highest point of the Ukrainian Carpathians there is any 600 m. Here it, all white from snow, is seen among other tops. Round us too snow, but top pure, the sun shparit also would be desirable to fall to sunbathe on a grass in an environment of violet crocuses. It is a pity, that have not grasped with itself any meal – would arrange picnic.

On a return way we bring up from base to Vorohty two climbers-amatorov. As true avtostopshchiki, first time they try to amuse us any rasskazkami, but soon the weariness prevails – guys, having lost the way, two days proshljalis on mountains.

Further it was expensive. Very bad. From JAsini to Rahova – simply nightmare. But repair. Though, in general, it helps a little. In Business – the geographical centre of continental Europe. At least, so in 1887 the Austrian geodesists when this earth belonged to Austro-Hungary have solved. I think, now they would search for the Old World centre in other place. Others «the centres of Europe» are in Poland, Baltic and Belarus.

Some photo for a collection, also we move further. It is necessary to call in still in Solotvino. Initially there was even a thought to stay the night in a valley of salty lakes. But, when have reached a place, at once have understood what to remain there is no desire. It is considered, that lakes unique. Water several times solonee, than in the usual sea and approximately corresponds to level of a mineralization of the Dead Sea. The main lake is named by a name of German tsarina Kunigundy, the wife of Kiev prince Jaropolka. Ostensibly, through these places they reached to Kiev from exile. But then, in XI century, lakes yet was not. It artificial also has arisen all hundred years ago on a place of the failed hydrochloric mine. Salt here extract since the most ancient times and until now. An exposition of a local museum of hydrochloric mines (bodies: (03134 2-10-06) is poorer similar in Polish Velichke, but too it is noteworthy. Old developments here too use for asthma treatment – the clinic (bodies functions allergologicheskaja: (03134 21-500, 32-036, 56-350). Lakes are built densely up by numerous bases of rest. Some decent enough by sight, but in so early time still almost works nothing. To bathe still too rather early, and the dirt and insanitary conditions around makes such oppressive impression that decided not to remain.

Darkness overtakes us on an entrance to Mukachevo. Here also it is done the next stop. Especially, there is an occasion – Oriental cherries just blossom! On a city, as well as in Uzhgorod it is, a lot of, them but most of all – on street Moscow. It looks is really more tremendous, not looking at all that there has the day before passed a strong rain, and half of colour posbivalo. But full madness – only at the very beginning of flowering (this year it has begun in the latest dates of April) when leaflets have not made the way yet, and naked branches are covered by the whole caps of magnificent pinkish colours. Speak, in Japan to prolong this short moment, specially detain vegetation, obkladyvaja trees ice blocks. On sakurovuju avenue we will go since morning, for now – lodging for the night search. In successfully located almost in the centre, on coast Latoritsy, hotel "Dolphin" (street Uzhgorod, 1а; bodies: (03131) 31-522) there is free number for 200 grn. As time later to have supper it is normally possible only at restaurant of superelite Hotel "is old" opposite to the Town hall. Obstanovochka there not in ours strue – pathos and snobskaja but where in Ukraine it is possible to try meat in trjufelnom sauce or fua-gra for 30 grn.!?

Next two days have been devoted relaksu – to get a bit tired we already were in time. The call in "Voevodino" has appeared successful. Separate cottages for holidays, naturally, free does not remain, but the double room available was. Two days we slept, walked, read, ate the Hungarian goulash, Romanian banosh, ceps and simply amazing trout whom here prepare how anywhere more. For quiet rest this very suitable place. If we will appear here somehow for longer time, we will necessarily visit one of local sights – falls Voevodin. To search for it it is necessary in mountains in 12 km from with. Turja the Glade, upwards along small river Shipot, and then is a little more aside on inflow Voevodin. By the way, the base "Voevodino" is a little in other place, in the natural boundary with the same name. Judging by rough discussions at a forum of autotravellers of club AutoUA on the eve of departure, at this time here should be and a little forumchan, but to identify their company among having a rest to us, unfortunately, has not had the luck. Only when we already packed suitcases, it was possible to be found out and thrown by several words...

To a flower valley

Having driven Uzhgorod, have first of all turned in the Average. The local lock we already saw. And in "Voevodino" have suddenly opened for itself very good as for the price serednjanskoe dry wine. Than not a souvenir? On navodke the local have approached on the main office of winery "Леанка" (street Shevchenko, 6; bodies: (03122) 34-531). Excursion in cellars with tasting us did not interest. The firm shop was necessary. Here an ambush – at it a break from 12:00 till, and we have approached at 12:05. Before it have gone astray and have casually got to the next village which has appeared by a huge stationary Gipsy camp! As in other world have appeared – somewhere in India or Mexico as them show at cinema. All people tusuetsja in the street, being outvoiced and gesticulating. All see off our car attentive and very interested sights. On proezzhej parts in a chaotic order run puppies, children and foals. Skeletons of the old disassembled cars everywhere roll. Some antiquarian miracles on wheels, apparently, even on the move. Have got out without adventures. The whole hour to wait for opening of factory shop there was no sense. A pier, what difference, we will buy in other place. As though not so! Neither in one friend serednjanskom, nor in any other shops in vicinities of this wine it has not appeared. It is a pity. Next time we take a box. :)

On road to Hustu have visited some more control points. To begin with, it was necessary to photograph lock Pereni in CHinadievo, which has not got to a shot in last trip (it is necessary to move down from a line between Mukachevo and a dignity. "Carpathians" through Ry ways and further to move on the main road). A pity show, I will tell to you. The lock big and well saved, but such started … From different directions is surrounded by five-storey apartment blocks, the office buildings, any motor depots. Even the foreshortening good for a photo is difficult for choosing.

Between Svaljavoj and Hustom – at once some remote sights where the decent tourist seldom reaches. In located almost on the brink of light with. Lisichevo have tried to get in the museum-smith "Gamora" (bodies: (03144) 22-604, 39221; it is located in the centre, behind a monument to heroes Great Domestic), but 6th in village celebrated Day of the Victory, and the museum has appeared is closed. The guidebook also specified in existence of the little-known lock in with. Bronka (1273) . The scent on locks was already developed lately. Standard reference points: small river, mountain, moshchyonnaja road. Indeed. Near the bridge through small river – congress from the main street on a stone blocks. Through any time – the index to the right, on a forest area, through the narrow bridge. At entrance the security guard meets. Speaks, on mountain it is possible only on foot. Type, it is short – hour-one and a half per one party. But to look, de, there especially there is nothing – from a nest of the anonymous knight-robber does not remain almost anything. Good, this time we will save time. Through some kilometres – with. Long, here at us the lock with a palace and park (1798). Here it, in the centre. On an input the tablet – a tubercular clinic. On territory people in white dressing gowns and striped pyjamas go. Somehow there does not pull …

At last, have reached to Husta. Control arrival in the Valley of narcissuses has yielded encouraging result – to us have informed, that the first flowers today have blossomed and already tomorrow it is possible to expect yet global, but already enough mass flowering. Joyful news have sent pitertsam to Romania by means of SMS. Business went by the evening. A lodging for the night have found nearby to station, it is direct near to the main road which is passing through a city. From this, that have checked up, minihotel "Carpathians" (street I.Franka, 93 has most of all liked; bodies: (03142) 46-701). If to go through a city on the main road, he can be found out nearby to railway station. Numbers not smart, but the money (130-180 grn.) stand. Purely also it is fresh, not killed furniture, the hot water, the closed parking place. What is necessary for travellers on one spending the night? And here a decent institution of a public catering to find it was not possible. And laziness was, if it is fair. Had a bite at small restaurant of next hotel "Атлант" and have gone to sleep.

In Huste we already were journey, the central part has not impressed, but it was necessary to get necessarily still on zamkovuju mountain. An entrance such: if to move from party Tjacheva, it is necessary to turn to the right on the second turn from station (after the bridge through Riku) and further to keep more to the right. Entrance on territory is forbidden, and the desire to break an interdiction cools nearby police station. But its neighbourhood calms concerning safety of the car on a parking a little. Behind the bridge before us three roads every which way. Where it to go? The kind local grandmother prompts, that to the lock the central conducts. Eh, saw, that the paved path leaves to the left – same correct zamkovyj a sign! But have gone on the specified route. Through any time the road has ended at a cemetery. Any footpaths have begun. They became all more abruptly and more abruptly, branched, lost in a grass. One was clear – we need to move upward. Have scrambled all in soap, and here it – wide flat road on which there are all normal people. There are such grandmothers …

The history of the basis of the Hustsky lock leaves in XI century, but building the Hungarian kings have finished only in 1191 In a current of centuries it protected a hydrochloric way from Maramorosha to Hungary, has changed set of owners while its history was interrupted in XVIII century with the lightning which has got to a powder tower. The legend connects the name with voevodoj by name of Hust. But much more all this place as the native land nice transilvanskogo families Drakul usually interests. The Direct communication, of course, is not present, but in XIV century these earths belonged to two brothers-Romanians from sort Maramoroshej, one of which called Drags (or Drago). The difficult texture of related communications leads valahskomu voevode by name of Vlad Drakul. This historic figure, together with son Vlad Drakuloj (TSepeshem), is considered a prototype of the character of well-known horror film Brema of the Stoker. Difficult it is a piece, genealogy of sorts of noble family. It is better to admire the rests of a terrible stronghold (it is desirable not to pay attention to dust) and panoramas of a valley Yews and Husta.

Pitertsy were already on an entrance. We have devoted the hour which has remained till time to survey of very unusual Gothic wooden church of XVII century in the next village Sokirnitsa. It simply appears an antiquity, but demands urgent restoration, and that will soon definitively decay and will collapse.

The best of the Western Ukraine

Well, everything, the basic program is executed. I suggest colleagues to come back through Mukachevo and Lvov that at them the most general representation about the Western Ukraine has had time to develop at least. And we arrive. Mukachevo, the truth, meets closed on the occasion of a banquet of the new governor lock Palanok. And Lvov to darkness and we have not time to reach. Line major repairs in mountains proceed, and a lot of time are lost, overcoming building sites. We decide to stay the night in road, as podvorachivaetsja excellent new motel "Viking-karpaty" (with. Bottom-sinevidnoe; bodies: (03251) 27-647). A place simply magnificent! Electronic locks are, of course, ponty, but here entering into cost of number a sauna with smart hydromassage pool – very opportunely. Evening of stories and displays is tightened late.

Lvov became a penultimate point. And, we have got directly at date of a city. Dimka at once has started to try to discover with enthusiasm in all any displays of the Ukrainian nationalism and, unfortunately, here and there has found out some excesses. Good, we will write off for independence formation. We, actually, have arrived to rise on the Town hall (earlier somehow it was not necessary). This idea has pleased to the head of Petersburg family and its younger representative, and after several honeycombs of steps we already admired a panorama of a city and listened to the story of the old woman-smotritelnitsy about the unique mechanism ratushnyh hours (interestingly, that from komorki where it it is located, absolutely not audible bells – it just beat 12). Excursion can be reserved in a bureau, which in a cellar on one of Town hall corners. To time remains only on very urgent walk by the central part.

We have prepared last surprise at last. «Wish to have dinner in the lock?», - I have asked. And at once has received the amicable affirmative answer. We go in Olesko! Survey of an exposition of the lock should be offered in favour of a nourishing dinner in zamkovom restaurant "Гридница". The updated menu has pleased with an abundance of national dishes, the kitchen and service have not pumped up this time.

And again a column have moved on the east. To travel by two cars, by the way, it is a little burdensome, especially when dynamic characteristics (there where "Karizme" for passing short jerk is necessary, "Harmony" it it is necessary to be dispersed long enough) do not coincide. Going to a head, it is necessary to be arranged all time under a high-speed mode of the colleague. But always it is possible to count on friendly aid and support! It very much was useful to us in Lvov when I on a parking have forgotten to switch off dimensions with protivotumankami, and having come back from walk, could not be got. Dimkin prikurivatel here it has appeared very opportunely.

For short time of a joint trip we had time to become good friends. To leave under Novograd-Volynsk it was somehow rather sad. All has ended with mutual invitations on a visit and promises necessarily these invitations to use. In Peter we precisely still will return, and it is obligatory by the car. But, probably, any more this year. And they it is obligatory to return to Kiev and to the Western Ukraine. At them after all too from cultural and natural riches of this edge «posryvalo towers». :)