prosherstiv files of the Internet information of the devoted Italy, in it the lack is not present, understand sense of a saying about tons of ore and particles of the got information. On the whole, reports across Italy are more similar on vanity fair, and the necessary information should be collected on remains.
We have tried to cut superfluous and easier to share the experience and impressions, after all our notes, basically are intended for same as we of avto/travellers, for those who has made the decision to travel on Europe, but lacks the information, on all aspects of movement and residing.
Trip key parametres
Cities and sights are listed in a chronological order.
Duration of a trip: 14 days, on June, 16-30th 2007.
Route: Forli – Bologna – Venice (1 night) – Padua – lake Garda (base for 3 nights – Verona, Senna) – Florence (1 night) – Rome (3 nights) – Sorrento (base for 5 nights – Pompey, Amalfi, Vesuvius...) – Forli.
In a way on the car: 3000 km.
The budget: 4000 EURО.
Rating: We have decided to create the estimated system far from objectivity. The algorithm is based on our personal sensations, impressions, emotions plus the arrangement of stars in the sky, etc. the Scale from 1 to 10 is based on a number of irrational factors, such as. All that above any estimations, we estimate simply – a masterpiece.
Car rent
We have arrived a charter flight (the ticket of 340 dollars there and back) in the airport of a city of Forli. The affinity to Rimini, to be exact to wholesale warehouses of the famous Italian brands of ready-to-wear clothes explains all. Preliminary we have reserved the car in Avis, and on an arrival have received diesel Fiat Punto 2007 Support of the domestic manufacturer in Italian consists that reserving other car, you most likely receive the car of manufacture of Italy. I will not hide, that I have been sceptically adjusted about Fiatа. But fortnight travel has convinced me of the return, modern, reliable, maneuverable, is specially created for narrow Italian city streets.
The payment scheme looks as follows: on your card the fixed sum for rent of the car during stipulated time of rent is frozen. When you return the car in an integrity and safeties, and also with a full tank, from a card the contractual sum within 3 bank days is written off. We have paid for rent Fiat Punto 340 EURO for two weeks. The given sum includes the so-called base insurance. Besides, you are offered by two options: to pay in addition 100 more EURO as the insurance from damages and plus still from above 150 EURO from car larceny. Business voluntary, we have refused.
Parking and gasoline
Yes, colleagues on wheels what there to speak, as soon as you have appeared in territory of Italy on the car, be ready to that you will pay any idle time of the avto where you would not stop.
The average tariff for the Italian cities looks so: 1 EURO for one hour. Than "raskruchennee" a city, already 2 EURO in an hour. Evening and night hours, holidays sometimes free of charge. All depends on a concrete city. A parking at hotel – from 7 EURO/night. In Rome we paid for a hotel parking already 15 EURO for days.
And parkomaty it is necessary to look still not to be fined on 100 EURO.
Having arrived to Sorrento, we in the first evening and could not find these relentless devourers of holiday money. It has appeared, that the voucher for a parking is on sale in booths with signboard Tabacci!!! But about it, it was necessary to guess most, also as well as how this voucher to use: to specify time of the beginning of a parking, having jammed a coin edge in the top part of a card date and time, and the same way to specify time of the termination of a parking in the bottom part and to put a card under a windshield. For the first time this procedure was done by the seller. Parkovochnye cards in each administrative district the, also can happen such, that the card bought in Sorrento, will be void in the next settlement.
Only after Italy, you start to look more kindly somehow on Kiev parkovshchikov. However, not for long …
95 Gasoline – 1, 35-1,40 Euros for litre.
Diesel engine – 1 Euro for litre.
Motorways and roads
All Italy is covered by a network of very qualitative motorways connecting the most significant cities of the country. You can quickly move and comfortably. On the average you leave with 5 EURO for 100 km of excellent road.
Operators on entrance and departure from a motorway are not present. Money is accepted by the faceless automatic machine speaking by an aluminium female voice which accepts denominations and coins, and also counts delivery and opens-closes a barrier. If you wish to pay a card, rise on other strip with a corresponding symbol. Payment basically at departure with avtobana.
Entrance to the big cities has appeared most a challenge. Because of a stopper we drove to Rome about 2 hours. Well also have simply strayed on a city about an hour, because of its elementary ignorance. The same situation with Florence. Our council: be reserved by detailed maps of cities, or do not stint on GPS the navigator even better. Cutting the next quarter on an eternal city, you start to regret for own slowness.
Besides entrance, departure from cities, including small has appeared one more complexity. The matter is that in parallel with a motorway, as a rule, goes municipal and regional roads. Roads intertwine, pass in outcomes, etc. Despite an abundance of indexes, to be reconstructed from the first and to get on the necessary road difficult. We repeatedly missed and it was necessary to waste time to return.
For us there was full unexpectedness a large quantity of supersize cars on roads. There was an impression, that Italy the great transit country on which move nemerenoe quantity trakov.
From our point of view, Italians as drivers, are very disciplined, in spite of the fact that all Internet speaks about the return.
In Florence we have met for the first time with two-wheeled "locusts". Basically representatives of this class move on scooters, but there it is necessary to enlist everything, that moves on two wheels. Only narrow small streets of the Italian cities could give birth to this new class. For unprepared mentality of the Ukrainian driver this heavy test, I will report on you. They everywhere, and all question that you go by rules, and they are not present.
Men at work with this inscription over road you will face a sight very often. It means, that workers conduct road repair. Whether will result it in a stopper? It already as to you will carry or will not carry. Tunnels was not less than in Croatia, but they did not become the reasons of megastoppers.
Residing at Italy
Being in Italy for the first time, moving in classical tourist мainstream, we tried to avoid risks connected with residing. (Rome and Venice) we have reserved the hottest tourist points through agency. Other part of a route has been laid by us independently. We hope, that our experience and councils will help you to plan optimum your travel and to avoid our miscalculations.
After fortnight stay in Italy, the algorithm of movement and residing across Italy (Western Europe) on the car at us has developed the following:
Hotels.
Here all is simple. On the average the double room in hotel *** will manage plus-minus 100 EURO for a night. It not during the highest season (May-June). Reserve hotel you can also through the Internet, having brought an advance payment a card, or having addressed in agency. In Florence it is recommended to stop in hotel "David". This hotel has left at us the most pleasant impressions. Cosy, stylish, it is located near to historical city centre at the very beginning of street Mikelanzhelo (to pass through the bridge and 10 minutes on foot along the river). We would name its art hotel. Having gone down in the morning by a breakfast and having seen Jeremiah Ajronsa, we would not be surprised. A double room - from 100 EURO. www.davidhotel.it
Motels.
For two weeks of movement across Italy we have seen all pair of roadside motels. This segment of the industry of hospitality in Italy is not so developed. Not America.
Apartments.
For the information about apartments search on the Internet, instead of it is lengthways expensive, as in Croatia, Poland or Czechia. We have reserved apartments in Saint Angello (2 km from Sorrento) independently through the Internet on a site http://www.bbplanet.it. Through this site it is possible to reserve inexpensive habitation in any part of Italy. Very convenient search, detailed enough description, fast acknowledgement. The big two-room apartment, easily contains 4 adults. The Mediterranean style and a kind to Vesuvius. To a beach really 10 minutes on foot. Minute to an electric train, the most convenient and fast type of transport at coast is Literally. (1 mines to Sorrento and 45 minutes to Naples). Costs 70 ЕURO a day. We have brought an advance payment of 50 % a card, the rest have paid in addition on arrival. The mistress call Magda, its electronic address: boomerang06@tiscali.it
Campings.
For us there was opening an existence of a qualitative civilisation of campings in Italy. The matter is that after Croatia we had a sceptical relation to a usual piece of the fenced earth with two electricity cables and conveniences «in a court yard» which safely was called "camping". Actually among campings exists zvyozdnost from ** to **** for level and quality of services, as well as among hotels. On lake Garda we have at random stopped in camping Cappiccini www.camp-cappuccini.com. An excellent camping located in picturesque place Pichera del Garda (Peschiera del Garda) it is direct on the bank of lake. Planned to spend the night only, as a result remained for three nights. Removed a bungalow in which there is all necessary for autonomads (the conditioner, kitchen, etc.) . Two places for adults + two for children. It is not necessary to pay extra for a parking, the price for a two 53 ЕURO/сутки. The excellent, big pool, five minutes to a beach. For all information about campings in Italy search on a site: www.camping.it
Restaurants and meal
Moving on the basic tourist tracks, in all honesty, you practically do not have chances to try the presents Italian cuisines, realising subtleties of distinctions of regional kitchens and wines. You are doomed on classical a pizza, all kinds of paste, ravioli etc., etc., and not always the tasty.
In three days our food paths began to refuse to accept the dough in its any displays, and have started to demand native and habitual meal.
We have received the brightest gastronomic impressions in places where the foot of the tourist seldom goes, in institutions to which local residents go. But to find such places it is very uneasy... In any small village near Bologna we have tried the present Italian pizza at small family small restaurant where the head of family was the cook, his wife – the cashier, and daughters – waitresses. Far from the basic tourist stream in Florence, near to our hotel, in a family tavern «Orologio», we have received huge pleasure both from a supper, and from the restaurant in which five brothers who are not similar at all to waiters work, and they are similar to classical university professors.
Pizza, paste, ravioli – 6-10 EUROS on the person.
Dinner, supper (not paste and not a pizza) – from 15-20 EUROS on the person.
THE NORTH OF ITALY
The north of Italy is chosen by German tourists, we even would tell, that is occupied. Much and Dutches. But after Florence as though after a certain invisible, dividing line, there comes territory of Anglo-Saxons.
Bologna
Bologna was the first city on our way. Pass we it could not – it is connected with this name – jackets "bolonja", a spaghetti "Boloneze" too much, the doggie-lap dog, apparently, too "comes" from here... And, of course, university, the most ancient in Europe. A city also well-known for the arch galleries stretched on 35 km on all old city. The city is not spoilt by tourists, the most pleasant impressions.
Rating: 8
Padua
On road to Venice have called in to Padua, and have not regretted! Area Prato della Valle is unforgettable. The big green lawn surrounded with the channel with bridges along which there are statues of the well-known townsmen.
Padua is closely connected with activity Donatello and Dzhotto – these names face continually.
Rating: 8
Venice
As though you did not prepare your imagination for a meeting with Venice, the reality all the same will be other. There are two Venice, day and night. Sensations from evening and night Venice with what are not comparable. Magic of a city in the evening, absolutely other! Light starts to live on water and to create aura of mystery, mysteriousness …
Our council: try to plan thus your route to grasp evening and night time in Venice, plus reserve hotel directly in the Venice. As the centre of Venice is closed, all drag suitcases on themselves. Let it will be small effort over itself which will repeatedly pay off.
Rating: the Masterpiece
Lake Garda
Huge fresh lake with a subtropical microclimate and growing palm trees along coast. The north of Italy, however! The lake is located in foothills of the Italian Alpes in near to Verona. The best place simply will not find. Round lake of ten hotels and the campings calculated on any purse. It is suitable for rest, surfing, yachting, and also for fans of cycling and admirers of long walks on picturesque tracks.
Our council: choose lake Garda as base for rest and travel across northern Italy. At desire it is possible to capture all north of Italy on the car.
We have driven all east part of lake, from Sirmion (Sirmione) to Malchezine (Malcesine). The Small towns scattered on coast - Latsis (Lazise), Brentsone (Brenzone), Bardolino (Bardolino), Garda (Garda), seem completely not not touched by time.
To bathe in lake it is possible (and it is necessary) everywhere, water the cleanest and very warm, in June +22-23 degree. Southern coast of lake melkovato, coast in canes. You come metres 50 from coast, and absolutely swans nearby float. The further on the north, the it is better beaches. To us has most of all liked in Malchezine (Malcesine). But for some reason anybody except us did not bathe, though the people sunbathed very actively. We and could not guess this riddle.
Rating: 10
Verona
City with saved amphitheatre. The third on the size and the scope, containing 50 thousand persons. When we have appeared in an amphitheatre bowl, there put huge scenery, the tower crane … has been involved also Put "Aidu", in three days the theatrical season opened.
Shakespeare in Verona was not. Juliette has lodged there force of the imagination and the genius. I do not know in what year, veronsky the municipality has made the decision and "has appointed" one of approaching veronskih at home, a small house "Dzhulety".
So is now both Juliette's small house and Juliette's balcony. Nazhivka for tourists. Sounds not so romantically, but it is the truth.
Rating: 8
Senna
Do not miss possibility to visit a city entered in the list UNESCO.
Rating: 8
Florence
One of great cities of Italy. A rating: 9
Rome
Rome is a city eternal and great. Everything, there is nothing to add more. Having wandered on the Palantinsky hill, the Forum, the Collosseo (names so familiar to an ear of each historian) you touch splinters of material History, but the "sphinx" riddle why this tribe of shepherds became masters of all world, remains meek …
Rating: the Masterpiece
NAPLES AND VICINITIES
Sorrento. A city on a rock
The zone of Sorrento includes some resorts: Kastellamare di Stabia, Viko Ekuense, Meta, Sant Anello, Sorrento, Weight Ljubrense, the Agate Dignity. It is a train of small Italian small towns, they are divided only administratively. Small towns imperceptibly flow one in another and settle down along sea coast. We have stopped in Saint Agnello, these are two kilometres to the centre of Sorrento.
In one of evenings we have come across wonderful restaurant which is called Villa Pompeana. The restaurant is located on a steep rock, a-lja "swallow's nest". Below the sea, to it kind hundred metres. So, you sit at a little table, ahead the sight "merehtit" fires Naples how much suffices and outlines of Vesuvius are guessed. You sip wine and feel the life, all fibres of the soul and a body. Tender in the night … only then the understanding of that comes, for what so like Sorrento. Certainly for shopping on a very narrow and long small street, small restaurants, movement, a drive. But not it appears the main thing, you prichastilis to sensation of one of the most beautiful and romantic places on the earth. And it is the full truth …
Yes, by the way, at this restaurant we have caught ourselves on how the classical law of marketing accurately works, we paid at all for wine, we paid for our sensations.
Our council select Sorrento as base for movement on vicinities of Naples and, probably, all Southern Italy.
In Sorrento collect three crops of lemons in a year. There are lemons in the size about the blown off football. That utilizovat all this ripening weight, local residents do of it limonchellu. Strong liquor from 30 to 35 degrees. We have tried. Not our product.
Rating: 10
Pompey
Pagan city with paradoxical, "Christian" history. The city should be to be lost to revive and live.
The city structure amazes. Roads with unilateral and two-way traffic, sidewalks, theatre for plebsa (for fights gladitorov). The guide being as though justified, constantly repeated, that «in gladiators took only the most stupid slaves». Political correctness however. Other amphitheatre for representations of classical Greek theatre. Also gimnazium for playing sports. The area the Forum. Temples. All of us left from ancient Roman overcoats ….zdes it becomes obvious.
The city is live, without people. He lives the any "seventh", tourist life. Separately from people. People have been incinerated in ashes by volcano magma.
«…. From ashes have come and in ashes have addressed …»
The city very much "clings", does not leave indifferent. Probably, because caducity of life here is felt very sharply, is evident and is instructive.
In spite of the fact that the city is dug out by three hundred years, process proceeds till today. On suburb of Pompey we saw big raskop and archeologists pottering about in him.
Rating: the Masterpiece
Vesuvius
Necessarily find time to visit Vesuvius. To top, and if to be absolutely exact – a crater of Vesuvius, you will reach on a streamer on the second transfer for 15 minutes, even thirty minutes on foot and you near a crater.
Bewitching show of beauty of mountains, crater of an extinct volcano, panoramic kinds of Naples and changeable weather. As well as everywhere in mountains, weather varies within minute, and even seconds.
For us was surprising, that the mountain / an extinct volcano, «lives and breathes» hot steam which is visible an unaided sight. To avoid consequences of terrible accident of volcanic eruption, and it, how much we understand, practically probably to this day, on all radius of a crater gauges, videocameras and other scientific equipment are established.
Rating: 9
Amalfi and pozitano
The most beautiful road along Amalfijsky coast is a continuous mountain streamer. There is a site the extremely dangerous when you simply start to pray for brake system. The most picturesque site of road – from Sorrento to pozitano.
The small town of unusual beauty, nests in rocks literally. After visiting pozitano you understand, that all is learnt in comparison and that streets Sorrentos, very much even the wide.
It is gradually expensive on which you drive in pozitano becomes unilateral, and only having driven all small town you can be developed. To move down aside too it will not turn out, it seemed to us, that in a city is not present centimetre of free space.
Make impression small restaurants. They are unusual already that two parts of the same restaurant, live on the different parties of street. The waiter habitually bears beer, passes road and dexterously turns aside from scooters, thus as any pro, does not spill drops.
Generally by sea, by a ship, will be faster and more reasonably. On the other hand, such sharp sensations you never receive. Solve.
Rating: 9
Country houses
Word a country house of a Latin origin so still ancient Romans were a good judge of it, Venetians have finished ability to organise a country house with park to art level.
If you move from Padua to Venice, we recommend to choose road along Brent's river on which coast ancient country houses of the Venetian nobility are scattered. We recommend to you to visit necessarily a typical Venetian country house which is in small town Strо.
Having left Rome in a southern direction, we on a way have visited on a country house of emperor Adriana. More precisely, it is ruins. And nevertheless, ruins draw, have the magnetism and power. What to speak, were able ancient to choose vacation spot. Country house D'Este, put into the list of a heritage of UNESCO, alas, has appeared is closed. Along coast of lake Garda we saw already modern country houses, rare beauty and harmony which can serve as the sample of landscape design and style.
Beaches near Sorrento
In the Sorrento, judging by a map of the city, there are some equipped places for bathing, but we have found anything similar to a beach.
Bathe there, most likely, directly in port, and sunbathe on a very narrow strip of sand near mooring Marina Grande, or on beaches of hotels.
Every morning we went on a beach in Saint Angello. The beach is called Marinella, works from 8:00 till. On a beach it is possible to reach on the lift for 30 eurocents, or to go down on foot minutes 3 on the most beautiful track, in a rock. To bathe in the evening in affinity of rocks very dangerously, therefore the lift and a track on the sea are closed on the lock. An input 10 EURO from the person (the plank bed enters into cost), for an umbrella it will be necessary to pay extra 4 EURO. Despite the small size of a beach, Marinella it is very reasonably organised. There is a children's beach and an exit directly in the sea for adults. In general, not closely.
The most known and big beach of Sorrento is in settlement with the clear name for the Ukrainian ear - Meta.
The most romantic "wild" beach of Sorrento - in 5 km from the centre in small fishing settlement - Punta del Kapo di Sorrento also is called «a swimming bath of queen Dzhovanny» (Regina Giovanna Bagnos). On a rock – ruins of the Roman country house of 1 century BC, to a beach conduct special foot footpaths. A swimming bath - the natural pool surrounded with rocks, connected to the sea passage under a grotto. The cleanest water, absolutely smooth surface, indescribable pleasure!
The guidebook to Italy.
We casually have found the American guidebook to Italy (Rick Steves, Italy, 2002). Having returned we have come on a site and have taken an interest who is who … Voobshchem Rik Stivs he is the American Senkevich.
As a whole very sensible literature which at us does not suffice. It is written simply, with sufficient irony and humour. On the other hand, after perusal, there is obvious a difference of our and American way of thinking and mentality. Some councils, it is possible to send simply directly on M.Zadornov.
Us has amazed ofigitelnaja capacity of American-English language in the guidebook, to be exact one concrete council. It was a question about visiting of Christian church with a mosaic and frescos, the beginnings of the tenth century in Florence. In the guidebook it is written very simply: «Сheck the church». And all.
We should be kept and quote in English one more council from the book. «If bombed by a pigeon, resist the initial response to wipe it off immediately. It will just smear into your hair Wait until it dries and flake it off.” So you walk across Venice and a pigeon flying by over you, has not flown by by and ….sami understand, well the usual history ….dalee, quite seriously goes council what to do and as from it to get rid!!! Well зовсім a yak діти.
Agree, it is difficult to present a similar sort councils in our guidebook!
For amateur photographers.
For your understanding, plums with zapolnenoj fleshki on CD/DVD costs 20 EURO in Italy ….ne repeat our errors.
Pasta boys
«Bachili kumedne» as local alkonavty in Rome earn to itself on pitiyo near the Collosseo. They put on in drenerimskie a military armour, and are successfully photographed with tourists. By itself removing a bribe for it. Among picturesque group of "legionaries" it was allocated main, dressed in a toga of the senator. In him all was perfect both a grey nose and the violet person and a purple toga. Touchingly shaded this alkogolicheskuju koloristiku a crown of thorns on a head ….
From the American guidebook we liked the description of how to attempt to the Venetian (not to the tourist) in Venice. It appears there are carefully disguised restaurants which are disguised under a usual input in the house. Nothing should give out to the meticulous tourist what exactly here it is possible to attempt normally and well. For this purpose it is necessary to know where there is a restaurant and the password which is updated every day. Oh, the life at the radical Venetian … is heavy
Аntipasta
This Italian word in the menu, means snack, that is all that goes before the basic dish, that is before PASTA.
On snack we will tell about Antitourism. We faced this phenomenon on all our way to Italy, in cities, but have definitively realised this phenomenon in the Vatican museums. We were born literally under hands by the human river from which to get out difficult enough. So you also brings to an exit … What there masterpieces …
In Italy so almost always during a tourist season, in the most significant cities. It is too much masterpieces and too many tourists in one place and on one metre square. To it be ready. At least morally. Or come to other time …