Opera teart of S.Krushelnitskoj
I have bought three films there and then in shop.
Certainly, we have approached to opera and have lifted heads upwards that it is good for considering. It also gave out in us tourists. Besides at me on a neck the camera hung. Well, who we still?
On these our external sexual signs guides and dealers have started to be flied by guidebooks. The small uncle at first has approached. He has offered two-hour pedestrian excursion. Also has shown the certificate. I wanted at once it otshit, but we listened to its speech-representation with patience and only out of respect for a perfect city. But Nina has told to it "thanks" and:
- We have a guide.
- Yes? And who? – The uncle so was surprised and upset …
He has looked round on the parties. Possibly, a passing searched for the competitor. And intonation in a voice was such sad … «Yes ive? And who? Anybody does not like me …»
The guide at us yet was not. It should appear at us tomorrow. Call its Sergey. He/she is our Lvov friend whom we have left on snack.
Only we have got off the guide, other uncle has approached to us – it carried the cart on which books about Lvov and guidebooks have been spread out. Nina has wisely decided, that there is nothing to pose from itself the know-it-all and to try to hide that does not disappear – tourists in us were distinguished far off. Having bought a book, we have found out in 
it a map of the centre of Lvov. And I at all did not hesitate to develop it and to search for the street necessary to us. I constantly see the same Americans who with curiosity look around and study the guidebook. Also what? Normally. Yes – we tourists. If only anybody did not stick to us. And, as it is strange, more nobody touched us, while we about something did not ask someone.
First of all we have gone to that part of a city, which to the left of opera theatre (if to stand to it a back). From monument Tarasu Shevchenko which for some reason was green colour, we have got on the narrow small streets paved by a cobble-stone. A show shaking. Numerous Maidens Maria – they almost at every turn (however, as well as in each village round Lvov) especially touched. Having seen in a church of the Divine Body (so it is called in the guidebook, but I can be mistaken) a small plaster figure of Maiden Maria, I have wanted it to buy by all means.
Court yard of Lvov – not less significant sight, than monuments and other. They look so as if just about here all will fail. But, having got accustomed, you start to understand, that houses, balconies, a wall and arches both stood hundreds years, and will stand. The most important thing, that to anybody from lvovjan in a head does not come to give to these ruins a civil kind. And for it it thanks.
In the street Armenian we have come into a court yard where have found out an input in the Armenian church. The input had stone figures beaten by time. Behind trellised collars of church – flowerpots, sculptures. Beautifully, already the spirit grasps.
At deadlock Armenian it is located cultural centres "Дзыга". I so much about him heard. The bohemia local Here is going to. In a hall there was a display of paintings and bronze figurines. A man's member in a raincoat, with hands and feet … Well, let it pass. And such art is pleasant to someone.
Here in "Dzyge" is in cafe. If you reserve any especial firm drink specially for you to it set fire, switch off light and bring. It to me only told, but I did not see. I only have glanced in cafe and have seen there a lot of smoke as smoked all in a black way. Places was not, and we have left.
On one of streets on a fence the snake on whom the inscription – something about moskalej nasty and geek Putin flaunted has been drawn. And all city is covered Julia Timoshenko's by booklets and "Time", for example, the such:
2004. It "is time" for you,
2006. It is time for us.
Yushchenko here the hero insignificant. If its shape where came across, only in the company with Timoshenko. And, as you understand, and together with JUlej it was not the main thing. 
I as got photographed monuments. I liked all of them. Adam Mickiewicz, Vyacheslav Chornovil, King Danilo, and SHvejk, sitting at an input in «the Viennese coffee house».
When we passed along a fortress and a serf ditch along the street Ivan Fedorova, we have seen, that in walls it is a lot of loopholes in the form of the turned keyhole. And we met such loopholes in other fortresses and locks.
Besides, massive ancient keys from the big and old locks more often came across to us: they were in hands of guides, in different cafes as ornaments.
Passing along a fortress, we have noticed, that on an input in it costs and the militiaman smokes – it protected this construction on which there was an inscription "Arsenal". The show was comical, I have wanted to photograph it. I gesture have asked the militiaman, whether it is possible to photograph it, but it, not stopping to smoke, looked at me and did not react in any way. Time so, I have guided at it an objective and have clicked a shutter. The cop has thrown out a cigarette and has come in the lock.
There and then we have seen monument Fedorovu round which was spontaneous, but obviously constant flea market. However, here sold not any stuff and ancient bagatelles, and old books, Stalin's portrait and vinyl records Beatles, and also apples and oranges.
Having looked at a map, we have understood, that straight we go on mountain Zamkovuju. Friends advised to us not to climb on it because anything on it is not present and to look from it there is nothing. But we have judged so, that the sin to be in Lvov and at least once not to get upwards, to look a panorama. I, for example, do not know, how the city looks from above. And we have gone.
Bruschataja the path twisted mountain with a streamer. To go heavy, was skolzko. At mountain bottom the stone lion who was decent potaskan sat almost first to us and is beaten. Well, still, after all before our eyes the group of young idiots got to a lion on a head to be photographed. Moskali, in a word.
The kind from mountain really has not impressed, because the sun stood directly over the centre of Lvov, and the city was in a smoke. From other parties inhabited files and promzony were appreciable. But we saw also beautiful hills, on one of which there was a cross.
Having climbed down a mountain, we have seen a building of regional state TV, and near to it an arbour with Maiden Maria and florets. The tablet saying here flaunted, that the Maiden was established by TV men for the money.
In search of meal we have gone to other part of a city – to the right of opera. 
We wandered long. Not to get to bad cafe, I called to the friend to Kharkov which knows all decent places of Lvov, and it dictated me addresses. In any way we could not find the area the Market, and on its our map was not. Here has got to cafe, apparently, «the Lvov lock». Pleasant inside. We have reserved the Zakarpatye cognac therefore as have frozen. I, eternally hungry, have reserved grammes of 200-250 pork edges and salad. But after some minutes the waiter has brought to me three tiny rebryshka:
- Excuse, we still had only 100 grammes.
Mda … 100 grammes after uzharki turned in 50. And I again have not gorged on. But though has had a bite. We with Nina have decided, that we will by all means find introduced cafe "Dome", that in the street Tchaikovsky. Also continued to wander.
If from a viewing platform of the Kiev park of Glory to look at the left coast of Dnepr, almost same landscape, but without vysotok will open. But on a photo all the same a kind from mountain Zamokovoj
It seemed to me, that this part of a city less interesting. Here massive buildings – university, railway management, Office of Public Prosecutor … Though the Office of Public Prosecutor is located in the most beautiful building on the prospectus of Shevchenko. And in the middle of the prospectus the small dwarfish maples covered with faded orange tapes are landed. Speak, them sometimes change for the new.
Suddenly we have noticed cafe "Cactus". And though I much about him read, but to come into it we did not become, because the kind at it was too pathos. Therefore we turn off on Tchaikovsky and we search for "Dome".
That to us the life did not seem paradise, it is cafe was in Tchaikovsky end …, moreover it was necessary to rise on a hillock. Before cafe – the small court yard, is more exact – подвір’я in which there was a carved doghouse and laid garbuzy. A strange hint …
The cafe interior is made in style of the end 19 – the beginnings of 20 centuries: everywhere black-and-white old photos of any ladies and gentlemen, on walls at a bar rack those big keys, on window sills ancient vases, large bottles for moonshine and other motloh. Stylishly. Pleasantly. Illumination muffled. Music plays silently. It most of all is pleasant to me in the Lvov cafes – nobody tries to cut music on all capacity. In "Dome" the impression is made, that you are in the house of a merchant. But and here garbuzy, and remains for me a riddle.
And though it is a Greco-catholic church, sculptures here not divine, but secular. Marquises!
As you understand, I wished to eat. Nina has reserved salad-allsorts. A huge plate with set of marinaded vegetables. I dragged tiny ears of corn at Nina. To myself I have reserved chicken krucheniki with bacon. But also here I was comprehended by failure. At the price in 35 griven kruchenikov was only two, and they were small. But what tasty and gentle! Moreover with white dry tsinandali!
For all time in different cafes we could not spend more than 70 griven even taking into account alcohol.
Nina tormented me with that I did not allow to it to get to museums and churches. I have consoled it in that today supposedly we look all outside, and tomorrow – from within.
Orange ribbons on trees always "fresh"
To reach from the centre to hotel it has appeared also simply and quickly, as well as to Lvov. The same marshrutka number 13 has taken us quickly. And I wished to eat all. It was necessary to jump out of bed and to go to round-the-clock shop. But except chips there the meal suitable for me was not.
Summing up the first day, I have considered, that we have walked 6 hours and there have passed almost 20 km. Feet fell off. But the mood was perfect.
Coffin of the unknown person
Having told not clearly that, the guide has taken away us in a vault. Actually, it is loudly told. Long steps downwards was not. Tunnels – too was not. We have only got to a basement part of a church, and have underfoot seen razrytye the premises leaving deep into of the earth. That is this church was under construction from above other construction. In one of rooms we have found out someone's bust, is more exact – a head which what for tourists throw coins. The candle standing at a head did not burn. I have lighted her. Whose head, it is not known. It has simply fallen down to archeologists heads during excavation. In other room there was a huge coffin with a hole in a lateral part. In a coffin was nobody. And who there was and where has left, the history holds back.
Head of the unknown person. To Balzac it is similar
Through walls there pass small apertures in shape all the same turned keyholes. Through them it is possible to see feet of passers-by. A thickness of a wall more than two metres.
The guide also has told, that on a church and vaults the monk in a hood and an icon lamp in hands wanders. Shines in persons to tourists and asks something. During our visit us anybody about what did not ask and in the person an icon lamp did not shine, though the guide spoke, what is it a terrible show.
- But to you of that to be afraid, if you monthly receive bills on payment of light, gas, an electricity, - he has added.
In general, we have laughed and have met with ours guide Sergey. We have agreed with it to meet in one of cafe in the Armenian street where we already were.
It seemed to me that to find this street now it is possible. But something we have lost the way.
There are two cops, smoke. I ask:
- You do not prompt how to leave on the Armenian street?
- No, - they answer.
Here this "is not present" they have said with very severe kind and so it is resolute so it is rigid as if they or in an ambush sit, and we them scorch, or they, bastards, know, where this street, but will not tell to us for any basic reasons. And it would be desirable on them "is not present" plaintively to ask «why?». Cops have simply appeared not local.
But we have found Armenian. Have glanced in one cafe – it was not pleasant. Have glanced in cafe which was called "Armenian" - too not that. Have seen cafe «Rudy кіт». Like the normal. Here we were overtaken also by Sergey to whom we, in general, did not speak, in what cafe we will expect it. Lvovjanin it also is lvovjavin.
Have gone down in a basement hall because there smoke. And I smoke often. Conditions so-so. Owners have tried to realise the cat's concept of an interior, but anything it is more original than the orange colour dominating in furnish of cafe, and absolutely insipid and huge figure of a cat have not thought up. But it is tolerant.
I will remind, that I constantly wished to eat. Sergey has asked the waitress, whether is not present at them banosha. In cafe this word, and we for the first time heard, in general, too.
- Well, this such karpatskoe a dish from a corn flour and cheese, - was dictated by the recipe Sergey.
- We such do not prepare, - with a stone physiognomy the waitress has answered.
Well and figs with it. I have asked not filtered beer, but white "Chernigov" which I like, was not. Similar, it in general is not present in Lvov. Is basically "Lvov", that is clear, and «Stella artua». It was necessary to drink "Standard" which has appeared here. When to me it have brought, and I have drunk a drink, I have shouted to the waitress and barmenshe, whether there is no at them a cold beer, instead of this boiled water. These two beauties have exchanged glances, have shrugged shoulders, looking against each other, and anything to me have not answered. That meant - «cold beer is not present».
Well and lines with it. From coffee too problems – everywhere submit only espresso R.A.I.V. Prepoganejshy the drink, should you tell.
Nina has recommended to me to eat a spaghetti that the farinaceous dish has hammered in my gluttonous belly. To itself has reserved fritters with cherries.
Bring the order. And here I find out, what is it and not a spaghetti at all, and usual cheap vermicelli, noodles. Here I met everyone in a life, but still nobody tried to palm off on me nasty vermicelli under the pretext of a spaghetti. I repent, I have eaten it. Was simply hungry. Cherries in pancakes have appeared the cherries brought from cherry jam. Therefore I recommend to avoid this institution and to bypass it in a roundabout way. Have defiled to me good mood. I repeat – the cafe is called «the Red cat».
To console us and to feed, Sergey began to drive us on a cafe miscellaneous. But it was ridiculous: it got us in cafe, and spoke: «Can look». We also looked. However, anything else does not remain, as in good institutions all places have been occupied.
And then Sergey has led us in cafe «Seven pigs», that in the street Doroshenko, smoothly passing in street Bandery. To go it was far.
It was already dark. But Lvov is well shined at night. Here excellent illumination! Near one of old buildings who has turned black from time and which once belonged to any rich people, played akkordeonist. Music was easy, sparkling. On bruschatoj to a small street people walked, lanterns burnt. There was such impression, that we and not in Lvov at all, and in Paris.
On a way I have seen the first ugly building in Lvov: it was whether scientific research institute, whether a garment factory of the Soviet construction of 70-80th years. The tram stop over which the big glass roof hung nearby has been located: it covered all street, and looked so as if it is railway station and here the steam locomotive just about will drive. And trams in Lvov though are similar to trams of other cities, but they it is less. And very narrow, as if the toy. However, there are also usual trams. Therefore on some sites it is possible to find out on two tracks in one party: for a wide tram one rails, and for narrow – others, they are laid between other rails.
Sergey and in a confectioner's shop "Veronica" has got us. To look. It somewhere around the prospectus of Shevchenko. But Nina not only has looked, and and has bought sweets which I in Kiev in abrupt places did not meet. There such variety, also is all to madness is tasty.
As Nina has noticed, Lvov is not a country town. It quite modern to all signs. And that fact, that here is not present high-rise buildings, and that nobody brushes buildings ancient, big plus.
Here do examination the hair dryer-shuj. The Ktajsky city of Lvov...
Sergey has very opportunely shown the old house which like a tile is imposed by something from different directions, but in one place of a tile was not – old bricks there were visible. It appears, during war in this place the fascist shell has flown, but was not broke off. And now, as the psychic and sorcerers speak local, from this shell magic radiation every which way spreads. Therefore, when we have seen a certain salon which the hair dryer-shuj »was called« Examination, we loudly laughed. About the hair dryer-shuem in Lvov full azhur. Besides "garment factory" or scientific research institute, I have noticed only one more zhlobstvo – cafe under the name "Relish-plus" on Freedom prospectus.
In hotel, laying in bed, we ate sweets from a confectioner's shop "Veronica". I was full and happy. Only from long walking hips were ill. Tomorrow morning – home.
To tell the truth, I thought, that the city with such name as Khmelnitskiy should be the historical centre, beautiful, with locks and churches. But it was necessary to take an interest in advance, that to what. If Ternopol has seemed to me a deaf province, Hmelnitsiky – simply horror. A city dirty, gloomy. We turned on it, but to an eye no trouble was to be hooked. We wished to have a bite and descend in a toilet. But where it to make? Having roamed half an hour and not having found any cafe, I have made decision to go on the index on station. There the toilet precisely is. And has made. popisali, had a look at an ugly monument Khmelnitskiy on privokzalnoj the areas and began to search for departure to Zhitomir. But all indexes conducted only to Ternopol. One place we have driven three times. Then I have stopped and have asked road the taxi driver. Under its recommendation have gone somewhere and have noticed the road index to Kiev. We went, went, then indexes began to inform, that we go to Kiev through Vinnitsa. Stop! Same what hook! About My God! Good, already late. We will turn to Zhitomir before Vinnitsej.
Somewhere in Khmelnitskiy area at the left at the rate there was a big lake. And on the right – cafe, refuelling and mounting. In this place Nina has said gold words: if you want it is tasty and cheaply to eat, look, where there are waggons because truckers know where it is necessary to eat and have a rest. Here waggons was much. And it is valid, we had well supper.
After that I have decided to check up pressure in tyres – it seemed to me, that they at me are lowered a little. The muzhik in a workshop has checked up pressure and has joked: «You cho – even in the summer of a wheel pumped up?» There was, that at me a pressure everywhere on 1,5 atmospheres, and should be on 2,1 or 2 (that the car did not rattle). Have pumped up me, and the car has gone more confidently.
Has darkened. Are expensive simply it is not visible. I went to the touch. Sometimes I was attached for bezbashennymi pilots on "Audi" or "Geldings" and followed them, and they shined road and showed a direction. But when pilots came off us forward, I again became blind. Marking on roads to these edges are not present.
With the big work and efforts we have reached to the nice city of Berdichev. I 8 or 9 hours at the wheel. But here we were expected by the most terrible.
Illumination is not present. Indexes are not present. Roads are break. The greatest possible speed of 40 km/h. In streets – not a soul. Those rare indexes which came across to us, did not gleam from light of headlights. If not Nina, we would lose the way definitively. She managed to find signs with an inscription "Zhitomir". But such signs was a little. Suddenly I have seen two tipsy guys and have asked them road. They have told, that I went on signs on the basic road. Okej. The based road on the left. Then to the right. Then again on the left. Again to the right. I am made casually have noticed, that I am at the T-shaped crossroads. Here it is necessary to turn either to the left, or to the right. Are directly expensive is not present. If "Zhigulis" not standing ahead with hardly burning dimensions, I would drive in a fence or in "Zhigulis". And any sign. But here Nina has remembered, that, apparently, there was an index to Zhitomir – on the left. In 40 minutes of driving on small small town Berdichev we have found our road.
The last of 50 km to me seemed eternity. Already having driven to Kiev, I could not wait, when the Victory prospectus will begin. I waited though for one traffic light that it has lighted up red – so I would like to stand though half-minute, after all the right knee and a heel because I 11 hours I press on gas was ill me. Already at home, having taken a shower, I have seen, that foot of my right foot black is all because, that I since morning this foot of stings on an accelerator pedal. Similar, shoes were absorbed in my foot.
Having thought up ourselves this pleasure trip, we have driven all on 150 km more and at 4 o'clock longer. And the main thing – almost anything sensible have not seen. On the other hand is a useful experience.
And so all this big story was about Lvov, I remind. Best of cities in which it is necessary to go more often. Easier to take a walk. As it is not expensive:
- Less than $100 gasoline
- Less than $80 hotel
- About $150 a food and souvenirs, transport, tickets in museums
- Miscellaneous
Total: about $350.
The end.
Article original: http://chernikovs.blogspot.com/2005/12/1.html
