Went from Kiev to Rahova. With stops road to 800 km. Has occupied 12 hours. On an entrance to a city it is found out vodopadik to which as if sheep drive by buses of herd of tourists. This trampled sight can be photographed not leaving from the car.

To travellers it is not recommended to remain in Rahove more a half an hour. Absolutely chertjachy a city in which you are attacked from different directions by minor persons of the rumyno-Moldavian nationality who demand «copecks on bread». And when to them you do not give, you hear predjavu: have arrived here on our earth, should pay. For stay half an hour in Rahove it is indispensable obozrite samples of local monumental art: obhohochetes. In the budget it is not enough money, and it would be desirable monuments. Obviously, for this reason pygmies-urodtsy on disproportionately majestic pedestals are born. And, all samples of local demiurges are concentrated on the area about 100 sq. m. of That there is only one «a Boy with a swan»: unknown hunters have already torn off for a long time to a swan golovushku, and money in rajadministratsii for manufacturing of an artificial limb of a swan head is not present. But on painting of a marvellous monument of means naskrebli. So it also costs: decapitated, but well-groomed-krashenyj.

In the central street we find out hotel where we hand over our means of transportation (this unique place in a city with a protected parking). We buy bread and we go on road towards a paper-mill – from here it is started uphill.

As usually, the first kilometres are given hardly: the weariness from the 12-sentry of sitting in the car, from multimonthly sitting behind the computer and heavy backpacks, in which – all for week existence in an independent mode affects. Besides, at bottom lifting is frequently abrupt.

In mountains it is much better, than in a valley. People practically are not present, the nature – marvellous, however, as well as everywhere in Carpathians. For three hours of the way which have remained to a decline, we pass about 10 km. Feverishly we search for water and it is not found. Generally water on a route is practically everywhere, but she still should be found out. As a rule, kolyby put nearby sources, but it not a guarantee of that will be possible to find a thin streamlet. To the city person it to make hardly. Is better to catch the native, most likely the shepherd will appear it, and to ask where the nearest source.

As to spite, any son of mountains does not meet on our way, and twilight is inevitably condensed. Almost casually one of sharp-sighted members sew commands has noticed a source in bushes on a road roadside. And for some honeycombs of metres from it – deserted, locked kolyba. Under it also we spend the night for to find an equal platform for two tents hardly. When put the car on hotel parking, us frightened of bears who ostensibly turned yesterday around kolyby where acquaintances administratorshi have stopped. It was its argument in favour of that to mountains to go does not follow, and it is necessary to stop in its hotel. Obviously, it is such rahovsko-hotel humour: bears in local places did not see many years. Sleep easy, companions!

In the next morning about an hour we continue to gain height then mostly we move in a horizontal plane. Our way lies through a tourist shelter "Rahov" in which we hope



To satisfy thirst pivkom. Alas, a shelter in full desolation. But about it we find out sheep breeders-syrovarov. Here us treat with very tasty sheep milk, flatly having refused to receive a bribe for an entertainment. We have a drink milk, feeding stocks of crackers to two enormous Caucasians – to dogs by sight terrible, but 
Very tender. Them you will meet near each flock. Their person should not be afraid – at the best will bark: these dogs are brought on vypas sheep and protection from possible predators.

Sheep breeding though in many areas of Carpathians from sheep refuse actively practises local places: cows to hold more favourably. However, sheep breeders-syrovary whom we have met, assert, that their owner syrovarni does not live in misery, delivering the sheep cheese in capital restaurants. A part of sheep it takes from local peasants, paying on 10 kg of cheese for a sheep whom give on vypas for the whole summer. Each sheep breeder at one go milks dry 100 sheep. And so – three times a day. Hands at muzhiks – as pincers.

Further we follow on mountain Maguritsa, we go down in poloninu pereslip where we are exposed to attack of ostensibly peacefully grazed bull. Bullfight has not taken place: we have escaped. We reach the thrown farm on the brink of deciduous wood under mountain It is old. In wood we stop on a lodging for the night, scooping water from kopanki at road.

Next day it is necessary to us lifting on mountains Small and Big Bliznitsa.

The above – the more strongly a wind. When we pass them and we come nearer to two rocks which Gendarmes name, the wind gathers extreme force. Such impression that you stand under the air liner turbine.

With a heavy backpack it is necessary to move under 45 degrees to the earth. Very amusingly. All remove blazers and scarfs that has not taken down. SHlejki a backpack mercilessly whip on cheeks. Have stopped to have a rest on a ridge. One of members of our collective has removed a 70-litre backpack and has lowered on the earth. There and then the wind impulse has driven it as if a ball: have hardly caught.

Further we planned to pass still kilometres 10 and to stop on a lodging for the night on lakes. But have met children who went therefrom to us on a meeting. Those have told, that further the wind is even stronger: we will go hour four. Meanwhile with each minute a barrel all is stronger. Not it is for nothing about these places write, that in the winter here it is better not to go, and in the summer at a strong wind it is necessary to go down in settlement Dragobrat. That we also have made.

The settlement has met us building ruin. For tourists here did not wait. Dreams to reserve a bath have vanished as a smoke, but it was possible to find by miracle survived barmenshu at which bought up some last bottles of beer. Have drunk them there and then, at bar steps then have pitched tents on the base nedostroja about stood till the winter kanatki.

By the morning the wind has suddenly abated, we have thrown backpacks at barmenshi and drove nalegke on lakes. It has there and back turned out about 30 km which were gave easily. Around – full game, absence of sheep breeders and tourists. Only once on broken "Uralami" to road the cavalcade kvadrotsiklov suddenly was carried by. We, as if bezloshadnye peasants, with envy looked it following. Somehow by all means it is necessary to sweep. The firms arranging kvadro-pokatushki, without effort you will find on the Internet.

Lakes begin on ridge Apshinets under mountain Dogjaska. To tell more precisely, here only one high-grade lake. On him we also have stopped, not having failed to bathe. The important information for especially fastidious: the large bloodsuckers are found in lake, probably already got drunk blood of careless tourists.

The others of lake type are more similar to rain puddles. Still guidebooks promise here a meeting with edelweisses which mercilessly eat sheep. Edelweisses we and have not found out sheep: all can already have gobbled up, and the season … can not