The foreword. July, 2005 the Russian caucasus. We climb up on devstvenno to a snow-white glacier. And suddenly at height of 3800 metres, in a kingdom of eternal snow and ices, thousand, no, millions bright, multi-coloured, quivering butterflies. They also fly for pass … to solar Georgia. Instantly in thoughts lines Zaharova were carried by:
Those butterflies over mountain snow
Flitting both it is ridiculous, and it is heavy
Zigzags, hardly l not underfoot,
It is a lot of them on sleet has laid down
- I remember …
Yes, many of them had a seat on snow and … froze. We have lifted some butterflies from snow, have warmed in ladoshkah, - and they have continued the long trip. Whence on a glacier of the butterfly? Where they fly, "colour on snow"? Rum, the geographer by training, has explained to me, that butterflies here brings a wind. And at me, the humanist, continued to sound in a head Zaharov: "… the butterflies searching spasenja from short death in the distant party" - … in Georgia. When we left upward and our sights there where these fragile graceful creations aspired have directed, we have seen Its Highness Georgia - freedom-loving, proud, solar, novel. … Pamjatuja Jury Vizbor: "I have left heart in dark blue mountains …", - on that pass I have left a part of the heart, knowing, that I necessarily once again will get to caucasus - only on the other hand, Georgian. But did not know, that there will be it so soon. … on a question: "Where we go to wedding travel?" The answer was unequivocal: "Georgia!".
To pass all our impressions and the acquired knowledge of Georgia, hundreds pages are necessary. For memory words CHingiza of Aitmatov come: "it is the most difficult to tell about a city, even about the native. Always you feel, what not in a condition to tell and the 100-th share of that would like". Therefore I also had been chose the "alphabetic" form of a writing that it is excessive "not rastekashitsja mysliju on a tree" :)
Georgia is the country possessing in weight of advantages: interesting centuries-old history, the most beautiful monuments of history and culture, majestic mountains, original culture and customs. … but the most important advantage are People. Having visited Georgia, we know now, that the Georgian hospitality, goodwill and desire to help near it not a myth generated by the Soviet films. It is the truth, therefore we unique time will depart from the form of a statement and we will begin the "useless notes" about Georgia with gratitude to these people that, having passed through recent war and living in poverty, they have not lost the national feature - hospitality and kindliness. Madlopt! (Georgian "thanks").
Madlopt! - the girl from Kutaisi, which in the bus we have asked how to pass to temple Bagrata. We only have asked road to a temple, and she … has paid for our journey to the bus. No, we did not look poorly, we did not require also we did not ask about it, but the girl has paid for us, is simple because we visitors. Our Georgian acquaintances have commented on an act of the girl, how "and what the strange? You stay …". Clear business if we were its personal visitors, but we only have asked it road to a temple. And well transfer a scene of action to the Kiev trolley bus! - it is unreal, here and we were dumbfounded :)
Madlopt! - to patrol in Burn, stopped us near fortress Goristsihe (and time was later), and asked to us the first and unique question: "Children to bring up you?". And well transfer a scene of action on street of January revolt at an entrance to the Monastery, cutting curtain between were Spassky and Petrovsky bastions. - questions would be set absolutely others:) Madlopt! - to patrol in Burn, approached to us at night while we got through a fence surrounding a museum of Stalin to look more close at a small house where Joseph Dzhugashvili lived in the childhood, and … removed a protective ribbon that we could glance in its windows. After fluent zagljadyvanija in windows policemen have suggested us to visit a museum in the morning and together with the guide to bypass an exposition. And well transfer a scene of action to the Mariinsky palace! - that, became terrible? :)
Madlopt! And more time madlopt! - the policeman from Kutaisi, accompanying by the police car the car of the infringer. We have stopped them to ask, where there is the nearest hotel (for rasprashivanija we have found other nominees :)). And us sgrebli in an armful, have set in the car and have brought … is not present, not in a site, and in hotel. And on road the call has arrived, and us have replaced from one police car in another, and that with flashers has brought us to hotel. And policemen have agreed about number, have fed us with house grapes and took our mobile phones to contact us within the next few days and to show us Kutaisi and its vicinities. Also have called, the truth, by then we already were far from Kutaisi, in Ananuri. And now try to use our militia as a free taxi or an excursion bureau? Yes even, easier, to stop in the street a police car and to address with a question …. Consequences are predicted :)
Madlopt! - to archeologist Rolandu from Kutaisi which free of charge also has at own will led for us the most interesting three-hour excursion on temple Bagrata, has shown the ancient only dug out underground course and found on a place of excavation of "antiquity"! And we after all have only asked to judge it our dispute concerning an internal laying of a temple! And well, try pozadavat questions to the archeologists who are engaged in excavation desjatinki. A maximum, - you will politely ask not to stir and leave object territory.
Madlopt! - to passengers of the bus-artefact following from Burn in Uplistsihe. Present a picture: the bus is hammered local under a roof, and here two more tourists with three backpacks try to take root on moving means. Also that you think, in few seconds our backpacks have crept away on salon on hands to passengers, through … nadtsat minutes have set me (not on hands, - on sitting :)), through … dtsat the man has risen and has given way Rum with words: "Now and you have a rest, road!". And now transfer a scene of action in marshrutku N 213 from 7:30 on 9:00 mornings or 17:30 - 19:30 evenings, - how much flatter words about, about the parents and ill-fated backpacks you will hear!
Madlopt! - the inhabitant of Tbilisi, whom we have asked how to get on road service station - in summary have been resulted by it on this station, are planted in necessary marshrutku, are entrusted on guardianship of the driver and are kissed. Also madlopt all whom we asked road: all to one answered, directed and frequently - took away for a hand :). " Well, also that "- you will tell …," unless for a hand at us will not take away, and so … ". However, but how much thus at the Georgian of kindliness and desire to help! ˇ Madlopt! - to the taxi driver from Kutaisi which, bringing us in Satepliju, treated with walnuts, pomegranates and other fruit accurately borrowed in another's court yard :), and also itself has expressed desire to help us to reduce expenses on cave visiting. The matter is that cost of visiting Sataplii for foreigners - several times above, than for the. Our taxi driver has smoothed this"inequality", itself having got for us entrance tickets. And now recollect features of national carrying: the foreigner prokatjat for 10 dollars with Central on the Southern terminal of Ry station :).
Madlopt! - Temuru, to the businessman from Tbilissi (to the acquaintance of our acquaintance :)) who has cancelled all business meetings and has devoted to us almost all the day: brought us in Mtshetu, has acquainted with features of the Georgian feast and toasts, and also all time watched by phone our movement on territory of Georgia. Yes, to study in us and to study at the Georgian in hospitality!
Madlopt! - the woman going with us in marshrutke, following from Tbilissi in Batumi which not having exchanged with us a uniform word, simply, has treated us hurmoj. Madlopt! Madlopt! And more time Madlopt! … And now we will begin studying of the Georgian alphabet:
Abanotubani - area of operating sulfuric baths in Tbilisi. You will find in what else capital on the central area … baths?! Only in Tbilisi! This city since ancient times was famous for the hot sulfuric sources, but present baths, most likely, have appeared in XVII century at Persians. The bath is good that brains there do not soar :), therefore in olden time there spent the whole days: bathing time was not limited, - and people could remain here till the morning. In baths gave zvannye dinners, concluded commercial transactions, and on "female" Tuesdays and circles matchmakers arranged shows of brides. Popularity of baths is high and today: affects not only medical effect of the last, but also frequent switching-off of hot water in a city (and it not a joke :(). In baths we have not got for the banal reason of shortage of time. But the detailed description of the Tbilisi baths can be found at A.S.Pushkin in "Travel in Arzrum". The poet has visited here in 1829 during Russian-Turkish war.
"At an input in baths the holder, the old Persian sat. It has opened to me a door, I have entered into an extensive room and what has seen? More than fifty women, young and old, half-dressed and at all undressed, sitting and standing undressed, put on on the benches placed about walls … I has stopped." Let's go, we will go, - the owner, - today Tuesday has told to me: a women's day. Anything, it doesn't matter ". -" It is final, it doesn't matter, - I answered it, - opposite ". Occurrence of men has not made any impression. They continued to laugh and talk between themselves. Any has not hurried to become covered svoeju chadroju; any has not ceased to undress …. The Persian has entered me into baths … Otrodu I did not meet neither in Russia, nor in Turkey anything it is more magnificent tiflisskih than baths (mine" 5 copecks "- here A.S.Pushkin, in my opinion, has a little paltered: Turkish baths (not their best samples) he could see unless in a deep province in area Arzruma :)). The owner has left me on care to the Tatar-bathhouse attendant. Gassan (so the Tatar) the beginnings of was called beznosyj that has spread out me on warm stone to a floor; then it has started to break to me members, to extend structures, to beat me strongly fist; I did not feel the slightest pain, but surprising simplification. The Asian bathhouse attendants are enraptured sometimes, vsprygivajut to you on shoulders, slide feet on hips and dance on a back vprisjadku, e sempre bеnе. After this it long rubbed me sherstjanoju a mitten and, is strong opleskav warm vodoju, began to wash the soaped linen bubble. Sensation inexplicable: hot soap pours over you as air! NB: the woollen mitten and a linen bubble should be by all means accepted in Russian bath: experts will be grateful for that innovation. After bubble Gassan has released me in a bath; that ceremony also has come to an end... ".
Now the Blue bath which is no time was come to see by the poet, have reconstructed, but sulfuric water, a soap linen bubble, woollen varezhka and tershchiki were saved. Were saved, speak, and numbers since then. Anyway, crafty "dancers on backs", in whatever number you have entered, confidentially whisper, what exactly on this marble shelf Gassan conjured with Alexander Sergeevichem. By the way, when in the press there was "a Travel in Arzrum" where Pushkin so has fascinatingly described tiflisskie baths, to Moscow from Tiflisa bathhouse attendants (on test) have been written out, but they at the radical Muscovites liking hot shelves and a fragrant birch broom, had no special success. But modern bathhouse attendants have accepted Pushkin's council and have got in Russian baths a linen bubble for soap and a woollen mitten.
Ananuri - a paradise place on the right coast of the river Aragvi, on the Military-Georgian road, to 64 km from Tbilisi. In the past residence aragvskih princes Eristavi. Ananuri did not enter into ours "a tourist route", but, coming back on trip marshrutke in Tbilisi from Gudauri, we have been amazed by medieval beauty Ananuri, therefore have "ahead of schedule left means of transportation and have not regretted ….
Borzhomi - the city name in Georgia and mineral water. We have not visited a city, and here mineral water have got drunk on glory! Name Borzhomi on a legend has occurred from two words: " borzh "-" a fortification "and" omi "-" war ". Were at war often Earlier, and settlement Borzhomi has been favourably located in gorge. Mountains round it also became that fortification, and on gorge slopes watchtowers have been constructed. Archeologists consider, that sources were known still antiquities. The found stone baths dated the beginning of the first millenium of our era testify to it. Apparently, in those days water used for bathing, instead of for drink. Then sources again have been for a long time forgotten, and places where they are located - are thrown. The second life to sources as it is not surprising, a distance military men: once soldiers have found a source looking as a hole, filled with warm water with a pungent smell. The colonel has become interested, ordered to clear away a source and to carry water in bottles in a regiment. Suffering stomach disease, it the first has tested on itself(himself) action of mineral water which has appeared so salutary, that he has ordered to enclose a source with stones and to construct nearby a bath and a small small house for itself(himself). It also became first "promoter" of mineral water, recommending to its acquaintances for the health amendment. The glory about curative sources has flown already about all Russia. At Soviet power Borzhomi became a resort. By the way this mineral water was liked very much by Stalin. In the eightieth years of the XX-th century "Borzhomi" became the most popular in territory of the USSR. But in the nineties manufacture was strongly reduced because of internal economic difficulties in Georgia. Last blow was put by Russia which "caring of health of the citizens" has forbidden import "Borzhomi" on the territory. But that did not speak "evil tongues", "Borzhomi" remains a liked drink of many!
Bush. Likely, anywhere in the world, even in the State of Georgia in the USA :) you will not find out the street named in honour of George Bush-younger. And here in Tbilisi such street is, and it is called Bush of an avenue. The street has been named in honour of the American president after its visiting of capital of Georgia in May, 2005, and to listen Bush's to performance has come almost as much people, how much left on streets Tbilisi during time "revolution of roses" J. Bush younger has been accepted in Tbilisi with all kindliness inherent in Georgians and hospitality. Before it the best Georgian folklore collectives in national suits (the truth, under the insisting of protection of the president - without daggers) have acted. George Bush has been obviously impressed and even has tried to join to dancing, is some times dashing krutanuv hips J. However for a feast at restaurant "Горгасали" (where to us also has had the luck to visit) there was a small discomfiture. One day prior to visit representatives of administration of the USA, arrived to Tbilisi, have declared, that during informal dinners the president always eats only the products specially brought from the USA. This requirement of Americans has called such indignation of hospitable owners, that protection of the owner of the White house had to recede. To George Bush have allowed to try the Georgian viands. Specially for the US president and his wife wine "SHavnabada" has been made. But because George Bush does not take alcoholic drinks, Georgian wine it has not tried L. But, leaving restaurant, he long praised highly a Georgian cuisine. As owners of restaurant told, to most of all American president have liked hinkali. However, not all Georgians "were delighted" Bush's to visit: one of them has brought a manual grenade on a meeting with the American president. It, the truth, has appeared "in not an operational condition". But what for it there bore it …
The visa. Welcome to Georgia! The world, friendship, a cud :)!. Any visas to citizens of Ukraine! Has recollected Vladimir Majakovskogo:
To one passports - a smile at a mouth (it to Ukrainian)
To another - the relation trifling (it to Russian) :).
Generally it is a joke: in relation to Russians at passage of passport control we have not noticed any discrimination, but to us, really, have smiled the Hollywood smile :).
I get from wide trouser-legs
The duplicate of invaluable cargo.
Read, envy, I am a citizen
Ukraine!
Wine. That Georgians drink wine in litres (more correctly to tell, - jugs), we have tested on ourselves :). Some times, when at restaurant or cafe, we asked to bring to us a wine glass-other, to us answered, softly to tell, with surprise - wine is on sale only jugs. In the first day of our stay in Tbilisi hospitable Georgians have arranged for us "digression" to a national delicatessen: at first on a table there was one jug with wine, then another, the third … Exact quantity drunk on a four on that feast cannot tell: "accounting" has been broken already after the third jug :).
Georgia, by right, is considered one of the oldest centres of occurrence of a grapevine and the recognised native land of wine growing. Even the Christianity in Georgia was accepted a cross made of a grapevine :). There is a legend how krestitelnitsa Georgia sacred Nino, come to Georgia in 337 year, has brought with itself a cross from a grapevine, connected by its own hair. But the winemaking in territory of Georgia has been developed for 6 thousand years B.C. The seeds of the cultural grapes which have been found out in ancient burial places in territory of Southern Georgia testify to it (Mtsheta, the Alazansky valley, Pitsunda). About deep roots of winemaking also speak also archeological excavations of the ancient settlements, which age, according to archeologists, makes 8000 years. On the found vessels constantly there is a grapevine image.
Cultivation of grapes and wine manufacturing have received the greatest distribution in East Georgia - Kahetii which and remains today the centre of the Georgian winemaking. One of the most widespread methods of manufacturing of wine is so-called kahetinsky a way which essence consists in endurance and wine storage in special jugs - kvevri in capacity to 500 decalitres having the cone-shaped form. These jugs are dug in in the earth, and only a jug aperture is at floor level. Immersing kvevri in the earth allows to achieve concerning constant temperature (nearby 14°С) at mash fermentation, and also at its storage. It allows to save long enough time quality of wine. At reception of a grape mash in Georgia grapes, basically, pressed feet. It is the most gentle way of reception of a mash since stones which at crushing give strong bitterness to wine are not hurt.
As to a recent interdiction for import to Russia of wines from Georgia and Moldova, in my opinion, the answer to a question, how to consider this interdiction: as care of the Russian management of health of fellow citizens or as political pressing freedom-loving the Georgian (delivery to Russia of Georgian wines makes for Georgia about 15 % of the budget of the country), - is obvious J. And now nevertheless about quality of Georgian wine. First, Georgians seldom drink purchased wine. Where the Georgian veins (in the private house, apartment, a hostel), it does house wine. House wine moves in cafe and inexpensive restaurants. And it remarkable! At prestigious restaurants submit vintage wine, and it very expensive, but costs that! At restaurant "Горгасали" in Tbilisi where we were invited by our Georgian friends, we have tried factory Teliani Valley vintage wine. It - divine! But once we have bought inexpensive wine in a usual epicure - it has appeared rare muck. Georgians do not deny existence falsifikata. For example, our Georgian friends, laughing, have told that the Georgian village Hvanchkara (only grapes grades of which then do the famous wine here grow) in a year can provide about 35-40 thousand bottles of wine. There is it fabulously expensively and is present "deficiency". But to accuse all Georgian wine in nekachestvennosti, it, excuse, at least, ugly and without adducing any proof!
Georgians drink wine from glass or crystal "capacities", - the horn of a buffalo is, more likely, an entertainment for tourists. Though inhabitants of mountain areas of Georgia prefer till now to any cup, any crystal grace a horn. A horn capacious, no doubt. But not therefore to it prefer able to have fun cheerful mountaineers that is why, that the wine poured in a horn should be drunk necessarily - on a table a horn you will not put. :)
The military-Georgian road - the historical name of road Vladikavkaz - Tbilisi (a site of the main highway Beslan - Yerevan). Extent of the Military-Georgian road laid through the Main Caucasian ridge by Russian armies still in the end of 18 century, makes 208 km.
Remember, how have met on the Military-Georgian road Ostap of Bendery and Pussycat Vorobjaninov "the competing organisation" - father Feodor? As, not having taken out torments of prosecution and the failure which have comprehended it at engineer Brunsa, father Feodor has got on absolutely steep rock. "For its fourth day showed already from below to tourists. - to the right - Tamara's lock, - skilled conductors spoke, - and on the left the live person costs, and than lives and as there has got, too it is not known" :).
The military-Georgian road differs exclusive picturesqueness. Severe gorges with steep rocks and magnificent valleys, the mountain rivers and falls, snow-white tops of mountains and picturesque plains, watchtowers and fortresses. … and a road streamer: the respect calls skill of drivers marshrutok which neither in a fog, nor during a rain, during snow do not reduce speed and are skilfully entered in abrupt turns. The only thing "but" roads is that on it "herds" waggons since for many the Georgian the Military-Georgian road is, some kind of, life road creep. Many leave them to northern to the neighbour in hope to bring any goods and a little to earn, therefore recently the Military-Georgian road has turned to a transit artery for contraband.
Burn - small town in Georgia, inseparably linked with a name of the son of the shoemaker to which could become one of the greatest dictators of the world - Koba, it Soselo, it Sozeli, it Besoshvili, it David, it Kato, it Solin, it Salin, it K.Stefin, it Soso, it Violent Vissarionych, it Moustached, it Speckled, it Ivan Vasilevich, it Supreme, it the Father native, it the Father of the people, it Uncle Joe, it Josif Dzhugashvili, it Stalin … the Main sight Burn Stalin's consisting of a magnificent private residence the museum where various archives are stored, photos and the gifts presented to the leader, the personal car which fastened to the locomotive (inside a bathroom, a bedroom, a hall for sessions), and a small small house in which the leader was born is. Here enamoured in Stalin (it not a joke!) ekskursovodshi will tell to you about the childhood, adolescence, a youth and a maturity of the leader. Will expressively recite young Stalin's verses, for example:
The pink bud has revealed,
Has clung to a violet blue,
And, by a breeze it is cleared,
The lily of the valley over a grass was inclined.
The lark in blue sang,
Flying up above clouds,
And a sweet nightingale
Sang to children a song from bushes:
"Blossom, about, my Georgia!
Let the world reigns at home country!
And you ucheboju, friends,
Glorify the Native land! "
Mighty well?!:). The only thing, that in expositions is not presented in any way, is for what Stalin outside of the native small town is most of all well-known. Here there is no mention either about GULAGe, or about concentration camps, either about golodomore, nor about premilitary arrangement to Hitler … If indirectly and these themes are touched, them call "errors" (!!!) the leader. But, despite "odnobokost" expositions, Stalin's "temple" to visit nevertheless costs: the museum is nice for the archives, photos and not numerous employees, enamoured in the object of studying. That who all the same would not like visiting of the house of the tyrant, we advise to walk on its territory: around very beautifully, especially in the evening when switch on illumination of a small small house in which the leader was born.
Gorgasali - "daddy" of Tbilisi. Vakhtang Gorgasali is especially esteemed in Tbilisi since it has begun city building, intending to transfer here capital from Mtshety, yes was not in time. For it this plan has carried out Summer residences (his son). The board of tsar Vakhtang Gorgasali (about 447-502) is time of attempts of disposal of the Persian dependence, though "nickname" of the tsar - Persian ("gorgasali" in transfer means, under one version, "the wolf head" since Vakhtang carried a helmet with the image of a head of a wolf, on another - "the head of wolves"). In one of fights with Persians it also was lost (from a mortal wound received by hand of the murderer, sent by the opponent). After destruction Gorgasali has been canonised, despite the "tense" relations with church. Rather eloquent example testifies to stiffness of relations of the tsar with church lords: " There has arrived the tsar and has dismounted to be put to stops of a bishop, but that bryknul a foot and a footwear heel has struck to a sovereign in lips and has beaten out to it a tooth ". Vakhtang for a tooth has settled accounts, completely having destroyed spiritual opposition.
Gudauri - the youngest and most perspective mounting skiing resort of caucasus. The first the Austrians in 1982 have started to master this place seriously. They had been constructed lifts and comfortable hotel. The further development of a resort was prevented by reorganisation, disintegration of the USSR and military actions on caucasus. Within five years, in the early nineties, the resort has been simply frozen. Concerning our visiting Gudauri it is possible to apply an aphorism: "All underestimated revenges, - all overestimated brings". Now I will explain. One our acquaintance, inveterate snoubordist, having learnt, that we are going to to visit Georgia, has asked to find out about us about Gudauri, so to say, from the primary source. To the primary source we also have gone. What our bewilderment when we have seen this "resort" was.
Our acquaintance has appeared nabljudatelnee us: in our photos it has made out ample opportunities for vnetrassovogo drivings and has gone in Gudauri in the winter. Already we bit elbows, considering the photos made it and listening to its stories: klondajk virgin soils, a heavenly spot for frirajderov, three lines of the Austrian lifts, 8 km. Continuous descent, turns is not present … the Price for residing? In the Austrian hotel of the price are calculated obviously on the - from 80 dollars a day, in small private hotels of cottage type residing cost fluctuates within 20-50 dollars from the person, in private houses (at owners) - 10 dollars. Dorogovato? But "driving without restrictions", possibly, costs that!
And still in Gudauri we have tried an Osset pie with … leaves of a beet which is called if does not change memory, "tsaharachdzhyn". Appearance - a class! (Reminds a fruit pie), and as to taste …, it on fan J. Also we have drawn a conclusion, that in Gudauri there live "politically advanced" people. At one old man - the true mountaineer on the appearance, sending on errands herd of sheep, we have asked, where in Gudauri it is possible to stop on a lodging for the night. The old man has directed us to the necessary address, and has at last asked a question from which we, to tell the truth, were taken aback: "What for you JUlku have offended?" (Was available in view of Julia Timoshenko's resignation from a post of the prime minister)
Dzhvari - one of the most remarkable achievements of ancient Georgian architecture and, without the exaggeration, the most popular monument of Georgia. The temple is constructed approximately in 20 km. From Tbilisi, on abrupt rock, on the very brink of a rock. … earlier about Dzhvari each Soviet schoolboy though, maybe, and itself about it did not guess knew. Remember?
... It is a little years ago,
There, where, merging, rustle,
Having embraced, as if two sisters,
Streams Aragvy and Hens,
There was a monastery. Because of mountain
And now the pedestrian sees
Columns of brought down gate,
Both towers, and the church arch...
Yes, here, in Dzhvari, poem events "Mtsyri" M.Lermontov were developed. Here, in close dark church, during early morning service there was the thin, weak boy who has not absolutely woken up yet, woken by a deafening peal from a sweet morning dream. And it seemed to it, that sacred look at it from walls with gloomy and mute threat as monks looked. And there, in height, at a trellised window played the sun …:
About as there it would be desirable me,
From a gloom of a cell and prays,
In that wonderful world of passions and fights …
I bitter swallowed of tears,
And children's my voice shivered,
When I sang praise to that,
Who on the earth to me to one
Has given instead of the native land - prison …
Place, really, gloomy, but on severe the beautiful. … in my personal rating Georgian sights Dzhvari wins first place. To Russian "dzhvari" it is translated as "cross". Under legends, the temple has been constructed in VI century over the wooden cross put by St. Nina - one of the most esteemed here sacred. The temple has reached us almost without changes ….
Kazbegi - one of districts of Georgia. … we also were limited to this information, if not two "BUT". The first "but": Kazbegi is the settlement located at bottom of Kazbek, that Kazbek with which admired M.Lermontov and A.Pushkin and whom every second climber "raves". The second "but" - monastery Gergeti located against Kazbek, is direct over settlement Kazbeki. It is a bomb!!! The settlement has left about itself oppressive memoirs:
- On all Kazbegi only two small hotels, and wishing to see Kazbek - set. Certainly, the enterprising "private traders" offering habitation for the same money, the truth, at all with the same conditions to the aid have appeared in time: a cot/place - 10 euros (and, in our case, the mistress at all has not changed bed after "predecessors");
- Small groups of hungry tourists of all colours and the nations with which it has not had the luck to be arranged in hotel and to board at it, wander in search of livelihood. "Obshchepitnyj" business (about restaurant, in general, I I am silent) is absent in Kazbegi at all;
- On settlement small streets wander in search of livelihood not only tourists, but also … pigs;
- In the evenings in the street there is a show of "glowworms" (in Kazbegi regularly disconnect light, therefore tourists move on small town with small lamps and candles);
- The cold, wind, zjabkost, humidity … Kazbegi is located highly in mountains, therefore is absolutely unlike solar Georgia represented on souvenir cards;
- Only in Kazbegi we have faced with so habitual in the homeland, but absolutely uncharacteristic for Georgia rudeness and unfriendliness examples. One our acquaintance who also visited in Kazbegi and has faced there with these phenomena, has explained it so: "I znahodzhu tsomu javishchu тільки odne pojasnennja. Казбєгі є останнім village on грузинській бік to a cordon, далі vzhe Росія. JAkshcho in інших регіонах Cargo і ї cultural chi be-jakogo іншого to contact z північним сусідом not відбувається, біля Казбєгі znahoditsja ždine місце de mozhna peretnuti Російсько-Грузинський a cordon on землі LEGALLY. To російського Владікавказу blizhche ніж to Тбіліс і, Kazb є ґі ma є reguljarne avtobusne spoluchennja z Владікавказом (PAZiki бігають tudi-sjudi). TSe all to an occasion є those, shcho ros_jsko-gruzinsk_ kontakti in tsomu місці найбільш rozvinut і, ніж be-de in Cargo і ї (it is clear річ jakshcho not vrahovuvati Абхазію)." kulturny "обмін already so і pre. Well і on big it is a pity mushu konstatuvati, shcho gruzini here prijnjali від svo§h сусідів найгірші risi". To agree with this opinion or not - to everyone to solve most, but the fact remains the fact …. Real facts also are good that they can be dressed on any fashion :).
Smoking. The motto the Georgian: to smoke always, to smoke everywhere! In Georgia smoke even in buses, trolley buses and marshrutkah! And nobody is indignant J. Do not smoke only in … the underground and only because there there is a special prohibiting sign. However, it is quite probable, that nowadays the situation has changed, since in the beginning of May in mass-media the information that in Georgia the law on a smoking interdiction in public places has taken effect has flown. Smoking is forbidden now in buildings of state institutions, hospitals, public transport, in public catering institutions, except where the use of alcoholic drinks is authorised to clients. Infringers will be fined on 5-10 by chests, and the organisations - on 200 chests. Concerning this law already had time to "joke" KVNshchiki: "Ministry of Health of Georgia warns: smoking is dangerous to your health, happiness and successes in private life" :).
Unleavened wheat cake. From time immemorial in the Georgian families in special oval furnaces under the name "tone" bread - an unleavened wheat cake is baked. The furnace gives all the best from a fire-resistant brick and is salted. It heats up to 300 degrees. At such temperature the unleavened wheat cake is baked within 2-3 minutes, getting specific flavouring qualities and periods of storage. Pekar sticks to the heated walls of the furnace of preparation from the test. If any suddenly will disappear - the dough bad means, and the further job pekarja will appear under the big question. There are some kinds of unleavened wheat cakes: "Dedis puri" (mum's bread), "SHoti" and "the Unleavened wheat cake Georgian". On technology and structure of the test they identical, but have the different form and on a batch occupy different time. And one of terrible Georgian insults is the question: "You that, do not eat bread?". Because there is no bread, on the Georgian concepts, the bad person can only :).
Chests (GEL) the Approximate course is national currency of Georgia since 1995: 1 US dollar = 1,80 chests. Malicious Russians, hinting at love of Georgia to the USA, name chests - "dolari". Except chests exist and tetri. So "the Georgian copecks" are called.
Mtsheta - the ancient capital of the Georgia which entirely has been switched on in the list of UNESCO. The city is located in 20 km. From Tbilisi, in a place of merge of two rivers - Aragvi and Hens. There is a legend, that Mtsheta has been based during immemorial times by legendary tsar Mtsehotosom who has constructed a city and has named this name. In Mtshete two greatest Georgian temples are located: is stately-solemn temple Svetitshoveli - one of the most glorified both esteemed temples of Georgia and monastery Dzhvari sung by Michael Lermontov in "Mtsyrjah".
Narikala - soul of Tbilisi. The fortress "Narikala" is located on a grief Mtatsminda, lifting upward can be a miscellaneous: a lung - if on steps or extreme enough: if you are a rock-climber and storm all hills and the mountains meeting on your way :). The name of ancient citadel Narikala is translated as "a small fortress": Mongolian "naryn" (small) + Tatar "kale" (a rock, a fortress). Before the fortress was called Shuris-Tsihe, that in a literal translation means "an envy fortress". Likely, to possess it was business enviable :). Citadel occurrence carry to the fourth century of our era, but especially scale changes in construction Narikaly were brought by Arabs in VII-VIII a century, therefore in the present kind the citadel is shown by the bright sample of the Arabian fortification. The place for building Narikaly has been chosen extremely successfully: the road going along a channel of the Hen, can be fired through. From here it is visible, that Tbilisi reflected as "military base" for the control over road.
Poverty. If me have asked to characterise Georgia in a few words (Georgians let do not take offence) I would tell: "Georgia is a shine and poverty!" . To shine all my memoirs are devoted, to poverty - only this paragraph. It is necessary to tell, that Georgia tries to struggle with poverty but while loses. According to World Bank for 2004 (I think, for today a little that has changed), Georgia took of 24th position in the list of the states with the greatest quantity poor (approximately 54 % of the population of the country lived below the poverty line). For comparison: in the worst position there was only Zambia, Chad, Haiti, Liberia, Moldova, Tajikistan, Armenia, Kyrgyzstan …, Ukraine, for example, took of 73rd position (approximately 29 % of the population) in this list. These are economic indicators. And vital. … I will result only two examples: stalls and burzhujki. Why stalls and burzhujki? Recollect ruin of the beginning of 90th years, and so in Georgia it seemed to us, that we once it already saw … Supermarkets you can meet only in Tbilisi (and that, the biggest Georgian supermarket in Tbilisi of which Georgians very are proud, hardly exceeds the size "Billa", that on Kharkov). Georgia was occupied"by trading stalls in which everything is on sale, beginning from a toilet paper, finishing meat. In cities there are black houses. That, what is it not" a war echo "and not fire traces, and a soot from burzhuek, panel high-rise buildings standing in apartments, will prompt the pipes of ovens-burzhuek leaving windows." The theme "burzhuek bypasses also Georgian"elite". So, late prime minister Zhvanija too could not receive normal heating in own apartment and has got poisoned by fumes from house burzhujki. So, if prime ministers in Georgia burn burzhujkami it is easy to present a standard of living of all of the others. The same situation with hot water" under the schedule "and light switching-off. And at last, at archeologist Rolanda from Kutaisi which we have met at temple Bagrata, we have taken an interest in the size of its salary, on what he has answered, that its monthly salary (teaching at two universities, a professorial rank, carrying out of archeological excavations) makes 120 chests!!! When we have heard this figure, our stomachs is guilty zaurchali, probably, digesting a supper, managed to us in the same price.
Clothes. No, they not goty, they Georgians (a joke from KVN). Perhaps the joke and not absolutely "tolerant", but in it is a truth share. Georgians, really, carry, basically, black clothes, and in a combination to black hair it, really, is looked Gothicly. Why it is not tolerant? Because Georgia - one of few countries where honour memory about died (including, and black colour of clothes). So, in "notes of the dissident" Amalrika it is mentioned that all svany go in the black: women after death of the near or distant relative are obliged to be in mourning to the death, for men the tradition to carry the black grows from "custom" of blood feud therefore the mourning became to constants. But, if black "prikid" from Gucсi girls and guys on BMW it is looked "stylishly" "black-brown-grey" crowds in the underground cast grief :(
Holiday. Georgians - fans of holidays. However, who from us does not like them? J. But the love to holidays and feasts is a national line the Georgian. Researchers of the Georgian culture notice, that in Georgia from time immemorial holidays in a year was more than usual J since Georgians consider a holiday as ugodnoe to the God act which harmonises relations between people. However, this national line very much harms to business dealing. As to us one our familiar Georgian told, here it is impossible to be engaged in business for the reason that work - work, and has called in on business to the partner at which the son marries, and … day walk - two walk, three …, - and all business was covered. And that is a lot of partners, and at everyone the son, either the daughter, or sister, or the friend … J. Here and the eternal holiday turns out! One more ridiculous national feature noticed by us, - "one works, ten observe" (not in insult to Georgians it will be told). For example, one Georgian builds the house, and behind a fence numerous neighbours have settled down: observe, give advice but to help- :).
Residing. "Once it was good hotel, but after all and I once was the good boy" (Mark Twain) :). Yes is not present, not all so is bad! Tolerably. But, not in insult to Georgians it will be told, the residing price not always corresponds to comfort level. The standard rate - 10 euros from a body in independence of a residing place: whether you in Tbilisi rent a room in sovok apartment, whether spend the night in a junior suite in Burn or you sleep on dirty bedsheets in Kazbegi.
Religiousness. We were amazed with the "raised" religiousness the Georgian, which, for example, is shown that 3/4 people are christened passing (in public transport or merse J) or passing by church. Prevailing religion in Georgia is the orthodox Christianity. The Georgian orthodox church will be more senior Ukrainian-Russian: Georgia - one of the first countries, accepted Christianity as the state religion (337). Besides, in territory of Georgia (Moslems-sunnity live basically, in Abkhazia and Adzharii), Catholics and others.
Saakashvili. Michael Saakashvili - the president of Georgia about the 2004 which have held this post after extraordinary presidential elections when it was taken by 95 % of voters. By the way "makes related" it with Ukraine not only friendship Georgian-Ukrainian the people and Saakashvili-Yushchenko's friendship in particular, but also that fact, that in due time it has finished faculty of international law of the Kiev institute of the international relations. Likely, to judge Saakashvili as about the president of Georgia, it is necessary to live in this country. We, strangers, have heard two opposite opinions from the Georgian: one it praise, saying to that with Saakashvili's arrival to the power though something was put in motion: roads are under repair, there were workplaces, the order is introduced in militia … Others, by the way "Georgians of Russian origin", abuse Saakashvili and "its mafia". podi understand. The only thing, that we can confirm, that roads, really, somehow, but all the same are under repair, and in the Ukrainian militia still to study and study at Georgian "colleagues".
Sakartvelo as we were explained by Georgians, this "self-name" of the country. Georgians name themselves "kartveli" from the ancient name of one of tribes - "kartli". And the name Georgia occurs from the name of St. George deformed by Russian (Gurdzhi). Georgians or kartveli name paradise Sakartvelo heavenly on the earth and like to tell a parable that when the God distributed the earth to all people of the world, at the Georgian there was a big feast. As a result they were late, and the God has informed them, that all earths are already distributed. Georgians, not reflecting, have answered, that were late only because lifted the glasses for Supreme. Having heard it, the God was delighted and has given to Georgians that part of the earth which it has reserved for itself(himself):).
Sameba - the highest temple in Georgia. Fairly, having read to that Sameba - novostroj, was disappointed, not having visited yet in Georgia :). Those who saw such Kiev novodely, as the Uspensky cathedral or Mihajlovsky zlatoverhy a monastery, me, I think, will understand. However my disappointment has appeared premature, - it has appeared, that novostroi happen different :). Cathedral Sameba (it is translated as "the Sacred Trinity") towers in the centre of Tbilisi, at top of the mountain named by a name of bible prophet Elii (Ili, - our way). The cathedral has been put in pawn still at SHevardnadze, opened - in 2004, but civil work proceed and until now: the facade part is completed, and there is a cosmetic furnish of an internal part of a temple. Samebu built, having realised a proverb "from the world on a thread". Longest "thread" the known Georgian businessman - "the owner of factories, newspapers, steamships" Bidzina Ivanishvili, prosponsoring 90 % of building has offered. The height of the cathedral containing 15000 persons, reaches 78 metres, and the underground part leaves on 18 metres deep into. In a cathedral we have counted nine altars. On monumentalism of a construction the cathedral can be compared with Moscow novostroem - the Temple of the Christ of the Savior (102,1 metre in height), and here on grandness, strict beauty and grandeur - … at all I do not know, with what. Judge :).
Sataplia - the unique reserve located near Kutaisi, known for the karstic caves and … traces of dinosaurs! In territory of the CIS there are three places with traces of dinosaurs: in Ravatsky gorge in Tajikistan, on a grief Sataplia in Georgia and in natural boundary Hodzha-pil in Turkmenistan. For the sake of these traces on the Plateau of dinosaurs and the virgin nature it is necessary to arrive in Satapliju! As to karstic caves …. One of them is equipped for visiting. What to tell - it is quite good, but we "Emine-Bair-Hosar" and "Marble" much more surpass the Sataplijsky cave both on extent, and in a variety natechnyh and crystal educations, and on light exposure.
Svanetija - proud, unsubdued, severe, primitive, mysterious. … this high-mountainous region of Georgia and remained for us the closed book which we necessarily will sometime read. Because of the flooding which have captured practically all western Georgia to get in Svanetiju we and could not … the Interesting fact, that anybody from the Georgian with which we communicated, never was in Svanetii. For Georgian Svanetija - some kind of, "the closed zone". Thus there is no the Georgian, indifferent to svanam: one consider as their "gangsters" and "cranky", and others, on the contrary, admire with their congenital pride and traditions. Svanetija - the most beautiful and picturesque Alpine area located from a South side of the basic Caucasian ridge. Here there is the "highest" settlement in Europe - village Ushguli (apprx. 2500 m above sea level). On photos which we saw, the virgin nature, high mountains and proud towers create inexpressible sensations. Since Svanetija - the most mountain, remote area of Georgia, also live in him svany - the people which language is a little similar on Georgian, here from time immemorial (and until now) did not recognise any power from the outside. In this small country all severe, majestic and perfect: mountains, the rivers, landscapes and, the main thing, - people. However, if you has interested mysterious Svanetija, it is better to go or read there nevertheless the book of climber A.Kuznetsova "below Svanetija" in which the author has expressed the love to most Svanetii and to its people. In spite of the fact that the book is devoted "a tiger of mountains" to Michael Hergiani, in it there are more than pages not about mountaineering, and about traditions, a life, culture, art svanov.
Svetitshoveli - "the Georgian Sofia". A Cathedral constructed in the beginning of XI century by architect Arsukisdze on a place of the Christian church first in Georgia (IV century!!!), it is located in the centre of ancient capital of Georgia - Mtshety. The legend says, that constructed Arsukisdze the masterpiece has called envy its teacher: the pupil has surpassed the master! The wounded teacher has slandered Arsukidze, - and to the master have chopped off the right hand... So it or not, but over one of arches of a facade of a cathedral, really, the relief with the image of the hand holding a square is placed. The inscription under a relief says: " Hand of the slave Divine Arsukidze. Remember ". In transfer from the Georgian language" svetitshoveli "means" a life-giving column ". One more legend says, that under the cathedral base tunic gospoden has been buried, and on a burial place place the hugest Lebanese cedar has grown. Later on this place it has been decided to erect church: a cedar have cut down, cut out from it seven kolon and began to establish them in church. Six columns it has been established, but the seventh did not give in - it has hung in mid-air. prosvetitelnitsa Sacred Nina prayed to Georgia all night long and then this column" without a touch of a hand human "has risen on the place. A wonderful column mirotochil (up to XVII century) And it miro zhivotvorilo also cured patients of heavy illnesses. The life-giving Pillar is located in the temple centre. Over it something is constructed like the small arbour painted with frescos, illustrating history of Tunic gospodnja and the Most life-giving Column. By the way, in Georgia one of the greatest religious holidays is Mtshetoba-Svetitshovloba. This holiday is devoted this Most life-giving Pillar and Tunic gospodnju and it is marked two times a year (on July, 13th and on October, 14th).
Traffic light. Because of features of national character, traffic lights in Georgia have not justified themselves :), therefore, likely, and "have died out", as dinosaurs. And those rare copies that remained, - only for the sake of appearances, and on them it is better to pedestrian not to hope, - and to die not for long. Same concerns also traffic rules as a whole. For example, if at us break rules stealthily that "the uncle the militiaman did not see" Georgians in general consider as their big humiliation for themselves. In a word, cars go, and pedestrians run, as want and where can. In this occasion the joke was recollected:
There has arrived the foreigner to Georgia by the car. Has driven in a city, it was attached in a tail kolony and goes. And all kolona it is amicable pret on red light, not looking on the militiaman standing up for by a crossroads. The muzhik together with all has driven on red light, and behind a crossroads its militiaman and brakes: - You of that on red svet poehal? - Yes here, all went, well and I too... - Listen, daragoj, you corrected know? - It is final, I know! - and any ne know! :)
Tamara. If today in Georgia have spent interrogation on a theme, who the outstanding personality in country history tsarina Tamara would appear it undoubtedly. Than so this woman has become famous, what forever remained in memory of the people? According to the local residents, all ancient castles, towers and monasteries, bridges, were vozdvignuty during its board, and the Georgian people consider this time "Golden Age" of Georgia. Tamara belonged to Bagration's nice dynasty and was born during board of father George III, somewhere in between 1164 and 1169. Still being absolutely young, it was sopravitelnitsej the father. Tsarina Tamara promoted Christianity distribution to Georgia, to building of temples and monasteries. The wise board of tsarina Tamara has got to it national love. By the way, Jury Bogolyubsky, son Igor Bogolyubsky, that which has not left in due time from Kiev and a stone on a stone was first husband Tamara. It was political marriage: They were united by unity of belief. However Jury has appeared the drunkard and the idler who absolutely not was not interested in state affairs, therefore Tamara with a shame has expelled the hubby for country limits. Twice Jury force tried to return to itself the rights, having collected an army in Constantinople and having got of support from the local feudal lords with hostility incited against Tamara, but has lost and has disgracefully finished a life on foreign land. Second marriage of the tsarina has appeared happy and extremely harmonious. Thanks to husband David Tamara has gained loud victories. Military trophies and a huge tribute from the grasped territories have made Georgia the richest country of the medieval world. Tamara has turned the received treasures into new fortresses, monasteries, roads, bridges, the ships, schools. … this unique woman has really outstripped time. It also it is possible to name "godmother" of the Georgian culture. At a court yard of the tsarina the best musicians, poets, philosophers have been collected. At a court yard of the great tsarina also was ingenious SHota Rustaveli. The legend about its one-way love to Tamara Up to now has reached. Tamara has died yet old woman as historical sources testify, of any heavy illness. She has been buried in Bagration's family crypt in Gelati. But some chronicles assert, that a place of its burial place - the Georgian monastery in Jerusalem. Unfortunately, historical sources are very inconsistent, - and this riddle so and is not resolved till now.
Tbilisi. Tbilisi have been based in V century by Vakhtang Gorgasali. According to a legend, Georgian tsar Vakhtang Gorgasali hunted in vicinities of ancient capital of Georgia Mtshety. The hit pheasant (a deer / the falcon / a swallow - each inhabitant of Tbilisi told to us this legend in own way J) became result of imperial hunting. The hit pheasant a/deer / the falcon / a swallow has fallen in a source and has cooked, - the source has appeared hot. On this place the tsar has ordered to put in pawn a city and to name its Tbilisi ("tbili" in a Georgian way - "warm"). The history of capital of Georgia is a history of infinite wars, destructions, disasters and victories: 40 times the city collapsed and restored. " Warm "the city has gone through the destructions put by Byzantines, hazarami, Arabs, Turks-seldzhukami, horezmijtsami. In the beginning of XII century (at David Stroitele who has become history as the tsar, united Georgia and relieved it from domination of foreign aggressors)"Golden Age"of Georgia has begun, but it lasted not for long and has come to the end with board of tsarina Tamaras which we have got used to name Tamara. Further the uttermost darkness. Through territory of Georgia eight times have passed hordes Tamerlana, destroying all live on the way; later the city has been reduced to ashes by the Iranian conquerors. In 1801 Georgia has been attached to Russian empire. And in 120 years the Soviet power … Tbilisi here has been established till now saves the colour and spirit of olden time. Abrupt, moshchennye a small street cobble-stone, small court yard over which balconies-galleries hang, an intricate carving on a wooden handrail, eaves, columns, domes of ancient temples and baths … Dezhavju, - somewhere already I it saw. Same Bakhchisarai! Krasotishcha! But the beauty is resisted by poverty! Yes poverty. It adjoins even near to the centre. In literal sense, a stone's throw away from the central sights the real settles down "shanhaj".
Toasts. Georgians always were famous not only refined wines, but also ability to say toasts. To us has had the luck to visit on the present Georgian "tostirovanii" after which we have understood, that our representations about the Georgian toasts, pocherpnutye, basically, from the Soviet films, were not absolutely correct and full. First, each feast should have the host - "conductor" of the Georgian feast. He and only it has the right to say toasts or to pass this right to another present, using a magic word "alaverdy". In a translation into Russian the host means something like "a seniority during time pitija wines" or "the leader of a feast". As the tradition of management of a feast long time existed only in Georgia, the word "host" has passed not translated not only in Russian, but also in languages of other states next to Georgia. The host should be the witty, eloquent, dear person … and to be able to drink! On ancient custom the owner who has invited in the house of visitors, itself should incur duties of the host. If for any reasons, but necessarily valid, cannot execute this role he offers its to one of visitors or relatives. In spite of the fact that the toast should not be ready in advance: he is born while the host a beret in hands a glass with wine, there is an order of pronouncing of toasts and their division on obligatory and "facultative". The only thing about what we regretted on that feast, that we do not know the Georgian language. The host said florid toasts in the native language, then specially for us translated into Russian, thus, unfortunately, the beauty of a toast was partially lost. Obligatory toasts are a toast for the world, for parents, for the native land, for ancestors (as "ancestors" are understood not only pra-pra, but also pra-pra-pra-pra …), for mothers, for died, for visitors, for sacred, preserving each of the present. Also we have learnt that, clinking glasses, as a sign of respect, the Georgian will try to lower the glass more low, than with whom he clinks glasses. Lifting the glass above a glass of the Georgian, the person shows or ignorance of the Georgian traditions, or the disrespect.
Uplistsihe - the most ancient cave city in Georgia. The short historical inquiry: for the first time the cave fortified city is mentioned in annals of I century BC (!!!). To IX-X century reaches the blossoming and gets special political value - will melt time capital of Georgia (at this time Tbilisi was in hands at Arabs). In XIII century Uplistsihe ceases to exist as a city: it is destroyed by Mongols. This surprising creation of human hands reminds huge honeycombs of fantastic beehive. Naturally, at once cave cities of Crimea (Tepe-Kermen, Kachi-Kalon, Chufut-Kale) are recollected. What "more abruptly"?:) . 1:1 - the Crimean cave cities, unequivocally, are more mysterious, diki, are mysterious, feerichny, whether that :). But Uplistsihe, amazes with the grandness and grandeur: huge halls, ritual niches, long twisting streets. … labour input of building amazes also: firm rocky breed in which it is cut Uplistsihe not to compare to loose breeds of Crimea. Here, believe - do not believe in existence of the legendary building dodge applied in olden time in Georgia: to workers distributed the unusual steel picks which one end has been cast from gold. Knew working, that as the steel in job, - its gold will be erased. Well they also worked sporo: the steel thawed...
Hachapuri. The joke was recollected: one Samurai wished to make to itself a hara-kiri, but has changed the mind and has made hachapuri J. Hachapuri is a popular Georgian flour product with the big maintenance of the grated cheese taken on weight twice more than a flour. So-called "the Georgian pizza" superficially resembles a cheese cake, only is larger than it. Hachapuri is a daily food the Georgian that proves to be true also a known joke:
There are two Georgians. To one another speaks: - Listen, Vano, I yesterday prihazhu the lady, hachapuri, smatrju - the wife, hachapuri, with other Georgian, hachapuri. Well, I it took, hachapuri, and have killed, hachapuri. - Listen, Goghs, and and here hachapuri? - As and, at Russian - a pancake, at us - hachapuri :).
Hinkali. The card of the Georgian cookery represents food from the test and a meat stuffing. A stuffing prepare from mutton more often. But it at all pelmeni!!! Because hinkali is an art! Under the form hinkali represent collected of it is thin the unrolled test small knots with set of small folds. It is considered, that the most tasty hinkali prepare in Kahetii: after all to prepare small knots from 24 small folds is present skill. Hinkali - meal, of course, tasty, but it is difficult to think up something more impractical: it is how much tasty hot hinkali, it is so unpleasant in the cooled down kind: (. To eat hot hinkali too special ability is necessary. It consists in that the thin dough in which forcemeat is turned, in the course of eating has not broken, and therefrom has not flowed out vkusnejshy juice (broth). Eating art consists In it hinkali: It is necessary to bite off cautiously an edge, then to drink juice which was going to inside hinkali (is the culmination moment), and when juice is already drunk, it is possible to bite further. Also do not result supreme, to try to spread hinkali on a plug, whatever hot it it was, - of the press of a stranger-neumehi not to get rid in eyelids eternal. Hinkali eat with hands and only hands! Good hinkali each good cook, therefore "hinkalnye" can prepare not the master, literally this word, worth its weight in gold. Till now in Georgia there is "war" between two parties "hinkalistov". One cooks add greens in a mincemeat, others - do without it. Both parties are right, likely: without greens hinkali prepared in mountains as there greens it was not simple (except mountain fennel). Also there were no also meat grinders, therefore meat for hinkali narubalos small-small daggers. Today it is possible to meet inscriptions on hinkalnyh "Hinkali rublenye", that means: the stuffing is prepared by a method of mountaineers.
Temple Bagrata (Kutaisi) is, some kind of, Sofia Kiev for the Georgian, and Bagrat III, whose name carries a temple, is, some kind of, the Georgian Yaroslav Mudryj:). Building of temple Bagrata has begun in the end of H century the Temple have named in honour of Bagrata III, the tsar - obedinitelja Georgia. The temple became a special place where the "state" life the Georgian (an administrative centre of Georgia and residence of the Georgian tsars at that time has concentrated became Kutaisi as in the largest cities of East Georgia - Tbilisi and Mtsheta - have become stronger Arabs). Besides, temple Bagrata became a certain symbol of association of the Georgian people. In 1692 the temple has been destroyed by Turks. Then have fallen off a dome and temple overlappings. For today the temple is entered in the list world historical and cultural monuments of UNESCO. In a temple archeologists continue to work, not stirring carrying out of divine services.
CHacha is Georgian "gorilka": a product of distillation of the begun to ferment grape juice or simply grape vodka. Degree - from 50 to 80!!! CHacha is a pride the Georgian. Recently the government of Georgia recognised chachu as a national product, and its industrial production is already adjusted. Some produce it still on traditional house technology (it really show: on a tub with home-made beer put a metal cone with a coil, cover a seam with clay and make under this design fire), but large manufacturers do chachu on the modern equipment and deliver it in sale sustained in a tree thanks to what the drink has golden colour.
Emotionality. That speak about an emotionality the Georgian, - the naked truth. On temperament, they "brothers" of Italians:). Personally me, an explosive emotionality, hot temperament and some theatricality the Georgian touches. Imagine: in Georgia all cars signal, and to all successively: to cars, passers-by, cows, girls... Georgians not simply loudly Talk, and is very loud - shout. Sometimes it seems, that they do not talk, and swear. But if Georgians start to swear … to a course there are spittles, many-storeyed curses and obscene gestures, - and it not to stop any more :).
Language. The Georgian language uses the alphabet created not later than 5 century AD under the influence of the Aramaic and Greek letter. The role of the founder of Armenian drawing Mesropa Mashtotsa in occurrence of the Georgian letter remains a subject of discussions; in any case, uniform sources and typological similarity of the Armenian and Georgian alphabets are obvious. Despite these similarities, Georgians and Armenians chuckle at writing each other. So, Armenians name elaborate Georgian writing "vermicelli on a dryer", but also Georgians will not be in debt, calling the Armenian alphabet "worms on fishing" :). In something others are right both those, and. Really, Georgian letters something remind vermicelli, therefore we began to call tenderly the Georgian alphabet "vermishelkoj". On a "vermicelli" theme there is one Armenian joke about occurrence of the Georgian writing. So, very long time ago Georgians have come to Mesropu Mashtotsu with the request to help to create for them own writing. At that moment the educator had supper, and for a supper at it was … vermicelli. Here this vermicelli also has thrown Mesrop on a floor, vermicelli has formed intricate letters which and until now Georgians use on a floor. For the clear reasons Georgians do not like this joke :). To a trip to Georgia we have learnt, that in Tbilisi there are Ukrainian corners. So, on prospectus SHota Rustaveli about a parliament building 1st classical Tbilisi grammar school has located, the input in which has a monument to Michael Grushevsky. M.Grushevsky - the graduate of this grammar school. Being in Tbilisi, we have found this grammar school and a monument …, but on a pedestal there were two men! On a monument there was a tablet with surnames to both, therefore we have tried to read their names, using listing of the alphabet available for us. But the result was pitiable: neither surnames "Grushevsky" nor what another we could not read L. Georgians of the senior generation remember Russian, but obvious "outcome" of Russian from Georgia is observed. Russian is not withdrawn from school programs of the Georgian schools, but obligatory it will not name, - children practically do not own it. In high schools Russian is equal to the foreign. In Tbilisi and other large cities English language becomes the competitor to Russian. It earlier the sun over Georgia ascended from the north :). But long friction between Russia and Georgia have developed an arrow of a compass on the West, and it, undoubtedly, has played not last role in replacement of Russian by English. In Russian Georgians speak amusingly. The matter is that in the Georgian language almost all words zakachivajutsja on a vowel. Therefore Georgians automatically adds a vowel to "president" ("prezidenti") and to parliament ("parlamenti"). So automatically Georgians this vowel rejects, passing to Russian :). Also in the Georgian language there is no soft sign, sounds "sh" and "shch". In this occasion one joke was recollected. Russian lesson in one of the Georgian schools. The teacher explains the use of a soft sign: "In Russian jazik words" sol "," a pier ", and" bol "pishutsa about a soft sign, and words" vilka "and" tarelka "- bez a soft sign. Remember it, deti because it is understood it it is impossible!" :). One more example of "the amusing terminations" was remembered. It is Sacred Nino. St. Nino is especially esteemed by Georgians prosvetitelnitsa turned Georgia in Christianity, therefore we heard her name often enough, but in different "sexual" variations: that Sacred Nino, Sacred Nino. To ask about field Nino it was somehow awkward, therefore we represented its that the grey-haired old man, chernookoj the Georgian:). As I was delighted, when to us have presented an icon signed "Sacred Nino" with the image legendary prosvetitelnitsy - all became on the places :). One more joke was recollected "a national parasite" in speech: "Yes?" - Very characteristic for "Georgian" Russian:
The cat-Georgian and cat-inhabitant of Odessa talk: - a cat-Georgian: "Mjau, yes?" - a cat-inhabitant of Odessa: "Taki, mjau!"
To my shame, many Georgian words, it is diligent us jagged, were erased from memory. The miniphrase book which has saved on a hard disk of memory (in Russian translitentsii), I represent to your attention:
ho - yes;
ara - is not present;
madlopt - thanks;
Gamardzhoba! - hello;
Aba hej! - Give! (In sense, while);
Aba kargad! - it is happy! (In the same sense);
Batono - the Georgian respectful reference equivalent to Russian "sir";
Gagvimardzhos! - traditional exclamation during a feast, a victory wish;
Genatsvale - the expressional reference to the interlocutor (is not translated)
The original of article with photos is here: http://www.u-incognito.kiev.ua/statti/georgia.htm