SPA it is deciphered as Sanus per Aquam, or Sаnitas pro Aqua, that in transfer from Latin means "health by means of water" or "health through water».
Many thanks to a site http://zzz.kiev.ua for the help at route drawing up.
When we were going to in round on thermal sources Zakarpatja many acquaintances thought, that we seriously are ill with something. Actually, thanks God, meanwhile paws not lomit and the tail does not fall off. Interest to domestic curative waters has arisen because of growing popularity SPA all over the world. The greatest quantity SPA in Japan about 3 thousand, is prestigious to have a rest in SPA the centres of Italy, Spain and France, but all it is so expensive, that in a wide circle of simple tourists about this kind of rest it is a little known. The idea of our route – to replace usual bathing for all in the useful sea with bathing in not less useful thermal sources Zakarpatja where there is available all necessary for SPA-tourism development: thermal and mineral water – practically on a sphere, what-any, but all an infrastructure, and the sights left to our country from the western neighbours in the form of locks and palaces without which any resort does not manage. To reconnoiter, so to say, Zakarpatye SPA we and have solved during a week detour of the western border of Ukraine.
All began with vicinities of of Lvov in which is not present any SPA, but is "zamkovye" places which were a program integral part. Before departure in locks Lvovshchiny I recommend to call back there not to run into the closed doors and spets actions which there are quite often spent. Phones of locks: Olesky – (03264 25193; Zolochevsky - (03265 43385, the lock in podgortsah has no phone since inside there is no exposition. On road from Kiev to Lvov at first have called in in Olesky the lock, have examined, had a dinner in zamkovom restaurant, atmosphere super!, then have hastened in Zolochevsky (in days off all works to 15,30), and in the end the lock in podgortsah. In the lock to get it is impossible, ostensibly there are infinite and fruitless restoration jobs. After photographing of an ex-terrier from different directions have seen the excursion getting in a palace, we were attached. An interior very sad. In Soviet times here, as usual, there was a sanatorium for proletariat, but despite of everything, doorways from black marble and a marble fireplace were very well saved.
Further our way laid to Lvov. Will stop in a liked city have solved on apartment posutochnoj rent and have not regretted. Agency contacts http://www.travel.lviv.ua bodies (0322 97-81-97. We lived on street Chehova28, a parking 5 grn a day in the next street Korolenko. The apartment is perfectly equipped, a room of 25 metres, ceilings under 4 metres, satellite TV, a geyser, in the Austro-Hungarian house with almost spiral staircase and a stained-glass window in smart, cost a day 120грн. Have glanced on fondju in liked cafe «Під sinoju pljazhkoju» street of Russian 4 bodies (032 2949152 in the evening (to reserve a little table by phone it is impossible, bron only under monetary pledge) very much we recommend to taste in this institution (they do them, it something of type "Beherovki"), liked it is possible to buy firm fruit liqueurs in bottles. The next day has been devoted survey of ZHovkva and to the lock on the bank of lake in Svirzhe. Once in the Svirzhsky lock have almost opened hotel, but all is literally for a month there rastroshchili, have plundered, the lock many other things have closed, now it, as well as locks, is thrown and driven in. Have returned to Lvov, had supper with acquaintances in quite good kafeshke near centre "Дзыги" (alas, I I do not remember the name). In the morning of the third day of travel we have set in a direction of Uzhgorod. On a way in Zakarpate, the Celtic swimming bath in with was the first spa-point. Lumshory and the Nevitsky lock with settlement in hotel "Камелот". Acquaintances from Lvov recommended to glance on road to a quite good place in with. Vishka where the picturesque Hungarian has constructed ph. 033135 30245 board "Natural boundary" www.vadvolgy.hu For the sake of curiosity have called in to look, all there is valid very well, the sauna, small open pool with heating all-the-year-round, at restaurant a Hungarian cuisine, there and had dinner. The dinner has appeared rather meat and tasty. This place uses the raised demand in the winter, the price all year long 130 grn from the person in the price enters 3 single good food, there is own lift.
We searched for the Celtic swimming bath long since there is it for with. Lumshory in territory of base of rest "polonyna". The road behind village places is blown up, I do not know whom, places is washed away by rains, was thought, what is it deadlock, we are developed, we go to village, we interrogate people, but to us confidently showed THERE, on impassability. Have somehow crawled, with the big work imagining what is it such - the Celtic swimming bath? It has appeared, what is it the huge pig-iron tub standing on the bank of small mountain small river. In this tub pour mineral water of natural temperature +13 and heat on a fire. In general, all was as in a fairy tale «buh in a copper and there has cooked». We plunge into a tub when water in him reaches +36, at the bottom of a tub the big stones are laid, will not burn. After the water temperature will raise to +45 and starts to smell as hydrogen sulphide, it is a high time to jump out of a tub and to flop in cold small river. Sensations super!!! So procedure repeats some times. This exotic termo-spa is served by the two guys telling about ancient Celts who lived in territory Zakarpatja and they were pioneers of curative procedures. The people about this swimming bath know, right after us the wishing have approached still. All is kept clean and an order, pure mineral water at you pour, upon termination of an hour of procedures merge, wash a tub, there is this pleasure 40 grn at an o'clock. Nearby is kolyba, it is possible to be supported, but we to taste lumshorskuju kolybu did not become, they fairly admitted, that prepare is tasty, but very slowly. Communication there only through space, but basically, is phone on base "polonyna" (0312 660485 probably, sometimes there someone answers. In base territory there is a pool where on pipes mineral water is brought, but it to such degree is started, that it is possible to speak about its existence conditionally.
Further us the Nevitsky lock and settlement in hotel "Камелот" (sm a site http://zzzkiev.ua) waited. The hotel excellent, the lock in ruins but to look it is necessary. On entrance to hotel "Камелот" superskaja kolyba, there we have tried the most tasty trout for all travel, and strangely enough, the price for a small fish the lowest 11 grn for 100гр.
Next day, having had breakfast at hotel restaurant, have gone to Uzhgorod where were crossed with acquaintances who too on atomobile were rummaged on Zakarpatju. Have taken a walk on a city, have examined the Uzhgorod lock (in the lock various museums operate, for example, a museum
Dead animals), nearby to the river is more tremendous a beautiful synagogue, had a bite and have gone in Mukachevo. The road Uzhgorod-Mukachevo has amazed with the novelty, well is simple avtoban! Not reaching Mukachevo it is turned off in with. Bottom Solotvino where dolzhon to be sanatorium "Co-operator", with pools and various spa procedures. As we were surprised, when have seen on a place so in detail! The sanatorium described on the Internet huge building, i.e. even still is not present walls, only the base pawn.
To throw an anchor in Mukachevo have solved in hotel "Лангер" (sm a site http://zzz.kiev.ua). The impression of hotel very positive, the truth, it not in the centre, but a taxi in the centre costs three grivnas, back at night four. After settlement we start to search mukachevsky spa, namely - thermal pool. Yes, yes pool with thermal water about which very few people knows. There is it on street Duhnovicha, near complex DJUSSH of bodies 03131 23290, is opened daily from June till September, an input 4 grn. Our acquaintances who have lived in Mukachevo about one year, with the big surprise have learnt about existence of this and when we have found it, could not be kept and have bathed together with us. Water from a chink on an exit +28, in the winter it does not swing t.k 25 metre pool is not developed absolutely not and not equipped. Something of type of a shower with fresh water only in the street, something of locker room type too. Generally having seen, it spa the Soviet flood to bathe it would not be desirable, but tetenka in the white dressing gown, serving in this institution the physician, so convincingly told about unique medical nature of these waters, that all of us have got into water. Have admired architecture in the evening, the town hall very was pleasant, have sat in the Tavern, have reserved a trout, in Mukachevo it already 14грн for 100гр.
Morning of next day has begun with lock Palanok survey, the lock extremely interesting. At last we managed to take the guide for 30 grn (before in all locks guides work only at presence 30 persons) inside set of museums among which for some reason have again found out an exposition of dead animals.
Further have got under way in settlement Koson, that on the border with Hungary. Speak, there Hungarians have constructed any human pool. By a carelessness vperlis in settlement Koson in which to find the Ukrainian-russkogovorjashchego person it has appeared a problem. Besides, in this extremely western, well already completely not Ukrainian, settlement at person badly speaking in clear language we find out, that all Zakarpate lives not in a Kiev way time, and on sredne-European (kievsk. Time a minus 1 hour). To drive to thermal water to call in in Koson it is not necessary, the index «a rest Zone» and something there on-vengerski, hung for 5 km to Kosoni on an Uzhgorod line. Zarulivaem under the index, podezzham to a small lonely mountain which foot has something of type of base of rest with small houses, a base ornament is two pools 6х6, depth hardly is more than metre. Really Hungarian, but it any Soviet companion since owns an economy The normal person would not construct such ugliness. This pool looks a little better than in Mukachevo, well still, around the nature, wood, on solar clearings were stretched sunbathing, but the main problem - nemerenoe quantity of children which bring here by buses from all Zakarpatja. To bathe in small pools with 3 buses of children not really, upset seen, we go further, in Beregovo. The local pool is found at once, a kind it same as well as in Mukachevo, but here to pool the springboard for freestyle ….ochen mysteriously is attached! Water +36, an input 5 grn, locker rooms and a shower – a gloom but when you will swim for a while, you sunbathe and you will get used to environment, so, like, and anything …. After water procedures have gone to the recommended restaurant «Gold a peahen». Restaurant really and outwardly and internally well very beautiful! Kitchen too Hungarian i.e. it is not simple perchenaja, and pereperchenaja. Portions nemerenye, the truth, a trout far not obedene, the prices rather moderated to the Kiev measures. In a building of the central palace now has settled down Hungarian pedagogical istitut, practically all signboards in a city on the Hungarian.
After Beregovo the march-throw in CHinadievo, is more correct pgt Carpathians, to examine palace SHenbornov in which sanatorium "Carpathians" (http://www.karpaty.mk.uzhgorod.ua/, 1 foreheads a day with a food from 90 to 164грн) successfully operates. The architecture impresses, the perfect park, is a pity, that any oddly we have not reached only fifty metres lake in the form of heart, but have come in a palace, children, with speed of a sound rushing on ancient wooden ladders there have a rest. The chandelier which is a part of an interesting legend of a palace was saved. Having developed on park, we go down in CHinadievo where we find the lock rests, but anything interesting in him is not present.
We come back in mukachevskuju hotel Langer where once again we spend the night also in the morning it is put forward aside Tjacheva. On road arrival in is planned with. Small Rostock Irshavsky area where one more Celtic swimming bath with pool in landscape park «Captivated edge» appears. The village have reached normally, but here in «the Captivated edge» from village to saw kilometres 10 on impassability … «the Birdie i.e. the car it is a pity!» . We come and is visible the sovok pioneer camp, serving camp, looking at us as on abnormal, prompts road to a swimming bath. Having seen it (well in any way a swimming bath) we understand surprise of the employee. In the middle of the perfect wood glade surrounded with beechen wood, the hole of the rectangular form is dug, filled in by concrete, once, to see, wished to make pool, nearby there is something similar to the rusty garbage container, under it fire wood. To put it briefly, disgusting similarity of the Celtic swimming bath in Lumshorah. As employees of camp have told to us, in these insanitary conditions children from camp bathe, and anybody of anything awful in it does not see. Near the huge tablet with the description of landscape park the property of Shevchenkovsky area of of Kiev appears.
Further we move aside Husta, we call in in Iza where in each court yard sell products from a rod, we original and have found anything, the price practically Kiev. From Izy we go to Sinevirsky lake. The picturesque mountain road where you will not look very was pleasant – the eye rejoices. We reach to village Sinevir, but to lake 18 more km not the best road. The lake somehow has not especially impressed, probably, we expected something bolshego. Kolyba, that near hotel «Sea eye», almost on the bank of lake, has been completely hammered someone's anniversary. On road to lake we had a thought to stop somewhere in these edges for the night, but anything in these edges did not shout «Remain!» And we have gone to a way back, again on Hust, and then on Tjachev.
Spending the night was planned the spontaneous. On the entrance to a city it is noticed «gostinyj a court yard», behind it one more modern hotel "Oksana", we stop, all very much even decently, number with all conveniences costs 160 grn for number. We think to stay the night here, but here, very much we would like any water procedures. SPA the guidebook in Tjachevsky area promised base «Black water» European level somewhere in with. Manholes. To village a hand a tax, on hours 19,00, local residents tell, that somewhere there there is a mountain from which black curative water flows and somewhere there have constructed something very good. Intrigued we go in to «Black water».
We find village Manholes, normal road we comes to an end, stop, we ask at tetenki where here base and whether it is necessary to go there on the killed road, to us answer: «Oh, yes there is such, there so fajno, so fajno, a yak in paradise! To you – there still kilometres 8!» - Show on hopelessly killed road. Further we do not go, and hardly we creep. It would not be better there some asphalt in general since all way to unimaginable holes, asphalt rolls pieces. To go it is impossible, we are surprised as somewhere there there can be a decent base if roads are not present any, again stop, we ask, to us again speak that there all very well, and reach there on a jeep. We are surprised, to see, there the closed club for owners of super jeeps, and road specially for the drive test. Got dark, understood that today we go only to one party since to go through a way back without beer litre it will be impossible. At entrance to wood we have really seen impressive jeep Mitsubisi of red colour, nearby a Mercedes, more cars were not. Before us a signboard – base «Black water», hurrah! The two-storeyed wooden house with extensions well was not similar in any way to something paradise. Around florets, footpaths, something of type kolyby, but there also did not smell as the European level. Most likely, we were the first casual tourists heroically crawled to this «Black … holes» Us the good-natured woman (067 7175365), the wife of the owner of an institution and two mentioned above cars meets. She tells as at them here all remarkably, brags of unique baths of a jacuzzi to which curative water (cost of a black bath 20 grn) is brought. This water of really almost black colour, with a hydrogen sulphide pungent smell. The problem that the small premise in which four baths are established, is not aired, a smell there costs …. To choke it is possible. To bathe in black water we have politely refused. Us have spent in kolybu, have called povarihu and have asked that we will eat, the menu does not exist. After long discussion of culinary nuances us lodge in the best number of this house for 100 grn. The best number has appeared with conveniences on a floor, more idiotic lay-out of the house to think up difficult! In the evening the owner halabudy complained of a life. It has started to build base in 1997, but here when has already taken in this hole of a jacuzzi road to base practically has collapsed, to repair it is going to nobody, accordingly, prospects to develop tourism practically are not present. It appears, thermal water with temperature +70 in Zakarpate is everywhere, but the chink depth in kilometre – inadmissible luxury, drilling costs 100 dale for 1 metre.
Early in the morning we leave «Black water» and we go to the last SPA to object of our travel - to salty lakes in Solotvino. As tell guidebooks, it even is better than the Dead Sea. Have reached quickly, in the small town centre have stopped to have a bite, it is very tasty local lotsi, at barmenshi we learn, that the best places on lakes it is any pools. We move towards lakes, before us the strange landscape opens: weight of the small lakes more similar on the big pools, from different directions stuck round by wooden small houses. We find pools, them already three pieces, to the people it is not a lot of, water same salty as well as in lakes, only is purer and colder since it constantly circulates. All is good, but the hotel near pools mrachnovata - in numbers with conveniences is not present windows, the price 100 grn. How such it is possible to construct? We look round on district and we understand, that we yet have not seen the most important lake Kunigunda. Somehow intuitively we move towards hotel «the Summer residence lux» (067 3004016 and 067 2600122), that towers on a hill over lake Kunigunda. Wooden small houses without conveniences stand 50 grn for number, lux (and their only on 250грн), however, the prices us have surprised three. For those edges it is simple a fantastic sum since apartment in Solotvino, far away from lake, costs 10 grn. Numbers lux are located in separately constructed two floor wooden house. Number consists of a balcony, a hall and a bedroom. Available: a refrigerator, ware, the TV, mikrovolnovka, a shower with hot water, a toilet, all is made very decently, lux-small house has opened in 2005, absolute nove! The unique lack – the house-lux is located directly near restaurant in which live music in the evening plays, but during 23,00 local times they fairly became silent. Unequivocally we decide to stop here. Having bypassed in the evening all nearby hotels, we understand, what is it the best place in Solotvino. On a wooden ladder we go down to lake, water transparent and warm +25, from the party «the Summer residence lux» absolutely is not present people (at them as though the approach to lake). You try to float in unusually salty water, but it appears inconveniently since all body is on a surface. I do not know as there on the Dead Sea, did not happen, but Red sea in Egypt on salinity you will not compare, in Solotvino, however, solonee! Nearby, in zalivchike lakes, people get a curative black dirt from a bottom and are covered with it from feet to a head. At what on a question and from what it helps? Anybody answers with sense cannot, speak, helps from all that is ill. nakupavshis, we go to restaurant that is direct near a small house. In reply to the request to bring the menu, to us left the immense sizes povariha, ready to listen to our wishes. Culinary possibilities are limited to a potato fri, fried meat and vegetable salad. In the evening to us have offered plov, filled in with fat and fried cheese which resembled a fried roll with a cheese stuffing more likely. Yes, with meal there a problem, the Kiev tourists having a rest on this lake already of some years, advised restaurant Gloria in city centre, but we there and have not got. As we have not got on informative excursion to hydrochloric mine №9 (near the bridge). In the morning of next day we left too early for excursion, therefore, alas, have not seen weight of the interesting.
On it ours SPA the route is settled, but is ahead expensive so nasyshchenna historical sights that it was necessary to break it for 2 days. Very much it would be desirable to look and JAremchu, both Ivano-Frankovsk, and Ternopol, moreover prisovetovali it is obligatory to us to call in in the Pochaevsky monastery. Spending the night in historically rich small town Kremenets was not the best idea, hotel "Motel" has enticed sauna presence, but also a sauna, and hotel make gloomy impression. If who appears in those edges, will better stop in hotel "Эдем" (03546 24939 sm a site http://zzz.kiev.ua). The way to Kiev has begun with survey of a palace of princes Vishnevetsky in village Belokrynytsja. The white-blue palace with turrets was saved in a perfect condition, now there forestry technical school. In park the lake with the huge fishes who are sticking out of water, in style of sots-realism is broken, on a back court yard of a palace the rests, most likely, the big pool are visible. Considerably, that all communications of a palace completely workers, inside perfect repair, here hotel to make! … but the sense is not present …
In the Pochaevsky monastery have appeared by noon. On territory of monastery to women to come with an uncovered head CATEGORICALLY it is forbidden, besides, as the input in trousers is unequivocally forbidden, for these purposes directly before an input here the flea market most advantageously works. The monastery, certainly, is grandiosely majestic! That business was on Sunday, to the people was – not to force the way, see a print of foot of Divine Mother to us and it was not possible, sacred a miracle-vodichku smartly sell directly near a cathedral, ocheredishche costs! We have thought, what is it somehow not correctly and have set to Kiev.
Seven days of travelling were very sated, but to examine all sights of those places, we were not in time. The edge and cultural values and unique curative possibilities is very fertile, only here hands at anybody do not reach to lift all it to the European level.