All Slovakia (summer route)

Even in the winter when our friends-skiers have returned from Slovakia and have told about presence there thermal swimming baths, we have become interested in this country. Having come across in an Internet on a reference
http://www.abcslovakia.sk/en/spa? PHPSESSID=c53371991789388551839ac9ddffa1c7
Where all thermal resorts are specified, have solved – necessarily we will go to Slovakia! Have planned a trip on the end of May since during this period already warmly and more there is no big flow of tourists, and them there in the summer from Poland and Czechia in thermal swimming baths happens much. The program was planned very sated, i.e. is absolute all country. The blessing, that Slovakia small – was possible to go round, well almost, all. Weight little-known at us, but unique sights naryli here http://www.muzeum.sk After the sated excursions and moving it was planned to have a rest in thermal swimming baths that allowed to look all, everywhere to visit and not that what not to die of weariness, and perfectly to relax and have a rest.
One important nuance – went c GPS + TomTom here, apparently, Signalkin in the report on it wrote. The thing is, of course, stunned! All as in a fairy tale where you were in the big city or in any jungle highly in mountains, the clever piece always knows where to go. To each traveller on the personal computer and the companion! (The reference to a map in the end of all text)

Preparation
In all were engaged since the Slovak consulate does not differ atrocities and turns. Habitation in Slovakia www.yahoo.com offers uncountable set. Properly having rummaged, have chosen the most liked boards, have reserved habitation on all route. Lived in three cities: poprad, the Loophole, Velki Meder (it near Bratislava). For habitation we did not do an advance payment of Kiev, in the letter named arrival date, in days, a surname and mobiln.telefon, to us in the answer sent the letter in which it has been in English written: we wait for you such number and all. Having on hands of listing of such electronic letters, we had doubts, whether and prokatit it for reception of visas? nachitavshis at this forum of histories about visiting of embassies and consulates of the various countries, have solved, that 2 times not to run, bring to Slovak diplomats all documents which it is possible to present, namely on each person was available: The reference about the decent salary, documents on the real estate, inquiries from banks about presence of currency bills, the medical insurance, a photo, the questionnaire filled in English language from a site www.slovakia.kiev.ua, listings of correspondence with addresses and phones of boards in which were going to to live, and, actually, passports. The girl in a window from such quantity of papers which Slovak consulate are not required, to put it mildly, ofigela, but all documents of a visor. In 5 working days we should receive visas. In a current of these of 5 days the life has put a problem of carrying over of a trip, only for 4 days forward. That perebronirovat hotels it was necessary to suffer, but more we worried about visas. At reception of passports with the pasted visas we explain, that there were changes and other dates are necessary to us. To us answer, that problems will not be, it is necessary to copy the questionnaire to other dates and to bring listings odobrjamsa hotels for the changed dates, all other lots of documents again to drag it is not necessary. Questionnaires and correspondence listings have been brought next day in business hours, and in 5 days to us have given passports with new visas.
So, all is ready to a trip, it is necessary to notice, that we travelled on car Citroen berlingo, not the fastest machine for far trips, but another is not present, but how much in it all vlazit!!! Us two: I am a clumsy writer of these lines and my guy Alexey.

Day the first. On May, 25th
Seven mornings departure from Kiev to Uzhgorod. In Zakarpate have arrived somewhere nearby 18,00, have stopped near Uzhgorod, in hotel Kamelot http://www.hotel-kamelot.com under ruins of the Nevitsky lock. A place have looked after last year, during round across the Western Ukraine. Standard number 200грн. The hotel is made in style of the romantic lock, visiting celebrities here stop, the hotel is located in very picturesque place, the truth, some numbers already demand repair, but all the same here it is very cosy and beautiful. We hurry for a supper in kolybu, it is direct near hotel. There prepare an excellent trout! An early release since ahead early lifting, at all did not know what is the time the border will occupy, and plans for the future day was more than enough.

Day of the second on May, 26th
In 6,45 mornings we already on border, it it is direct in Uzhgorod. We stand in line, at first have not so understood how much it big since to customs officers ahead was cars 15. Ours have passed quickly, to us shlepnuli departure and here we see concrete crowd of cars for entrance on a Slovak post, we become in not moving turn which develops into a chaotic assemblage of cars. As we managed to learn, on this transition towards Slovakia ALWAYS crowds of cars, at times border transition occupies 10-14 hours! Fur-trees-sticks here it popadalovo! Slovaks very carefully check the separate cars much for any reasons reject, all at all swear, in general, we and have not understood that, actually, occurs. The turn creeps slowly, from local baryg we learn, that today, it appears, it is not enough cars, us console, that on a return way all moves much faster. Anything especial did not occur to us, the car not shmonali. Painful procedure of crossing of border as a result has eaten more than 5 hours of time, but here we on freedom and fly to the first big ancient city of Koshitse.

In supermarket Tesco we change US dollars in Bank branch Tatra at the rate 1дол = 29,02sk, we lift eyes and it is readable an amusing inscription: Klient v centre pozornosti :-)
In Koshitse we put the car on a paid parking, to understand with spherical places there was no time, run on a city with fact-finding excursion. In the centre of the main area the biggest in Slovakia and the Eastern Europe the cathedral St. Alzhbety, from top of a Gothic tower-belfry opens a panorama is proud with singing fountains and the most beautiful building of city theatre.

In Koshitse weight of all historical, I will not describe, it would be desirable to place accents on very remembered moments and live impressions. At small small restaurant we eat national soup – chesnokova polevka (the meat broth, the fused cheese, garlic and greens), present chesnokovyj submit soup in a small loaf of bread which serves as a bowl, from above is covered – a loaf top, exotically!
Time flies imperceptibly and here we understand, that we fly by today with the city of Levoche and the most known fortress of Slovakia - Spishsky hailstones. Tomorrow it is necessary to condense and make up for lost time. We go to the city of Poprad where the hotel for 2 nights is reserved. But on road we call in in village Marushovtse (near Spishsky New Vsi) where there is a palace in style of a rococo with small, French park.

In a palace the museum of musical instruments, in park pleasant kafeshka operates.

To steam of photos of manor also we fly in poprad lodges in hotel since bron hangs till 18.00 Our board "Барборка" http://www.penzionbarborka.sk (27 euros the double rum with breakfasts), is in old part poprada, Spisshkoj sobote. The city is absolutely not interesting from the point of view of architecture, but in him there is a big thermal relaks-park besides a city - convenient base for survey High tatr and the historical centres adjoining to a city. Board extremely cosy and near to thermal park Akvasiti. In board only THREE numbers, but all is made so cosy, with such love, that it seemed to us bud we not in another's country, and on a visit at bosom friends on superskoj to a summer residence. The owner of board Martin all rulit, pours bochkovoj Budvajzer (the big glass 6грн) in cosy barchike on the ground floor, it is opened only for inhabitants of board and friends to the owner. Small sortie in an old part of a city where our board is located, we come into the liked restaurant with ethnic cuisine, at random something it is chosen (have not driven yet in Slovak language), one of dishes has appeared varenikami with a potato in sour cream, well... Tasty vareniki. Evening has ended in barchike Barborki with casting Budvajzerom and a warm fireplace.

Day the third on May, 27th
Early in the morning we go to the Spisshsky hailstones and the city of Levoche – these two points have dropped out of yesterday. In 9 mornings we already in a fortress Spisshsky hailstones – the greatest in the Central Europe a fortress (a total area of 4 hectares).

We decide not to stop on a parking for buses, that on the mountain-rock middle, we call in upward, to the input, there there is absolutely free parking for several cars. Fortress survey delights, kinds from top open the fantastic!

In the fortress a weapon museum, knightly tournaments are held. The fortress history begins since 12 centuries, it almost always was fortifikatsionnym a construction.
After Spisshsky hailstones arrival in the city of Levoche known for highest in the world for a wooden altar in a Gothic church of St. Jacob, altar fragments are represented on a Slovak banknote in 100крон. This altar was made by master Paul living here in 16 century. Slovak master Paul from Levochi something of our type Tarasa Shevchenko – national property. In many cathedrals of the country there are carved wooden altars created by his hands. Levoche on sensations something it is similar to ours ZHovkvu.

Further we rush in High tatry. On road we pass small town Kezmarok, the lock of 15th century has been noticed, but we hurry in mountains. We pass a thermal swimming bath in settlement Vbrov, a class silent place at bottom of mountains with two thermal pools. We drive to mountains, to describe beauty I will not undertake, only a dotted line I will note the seen: in Tatransky Lomnitse a super attraction; lifting on mountain Lomnitsky SHCHtit (2634); in Old Smokovtse lifting on a cable car on mountain Grebenok (1285м), on top the beginning of a summer line for bicyclists 3км, in the winter a line for sanok; SHtebske pleso with lake;

Hotels, kolyby, small restaurants and tsukarni continually; along all mountains the railway lasts to reach here to tourists very conveniently. Have noticed a strange thing – the whole hectares tumble down woods, we have first of all thought, what is it izvrashchenno cut wood even worse than at us,

But, naturally, such cannot be, it has appeared that in 2004 in High Tatra deadly hurricane which has destroyed the most part of woods was carried by, the country was in a shock. The head already went around from seen for a day therefore carrying out of evening in thermal park Akvasiti http://www.aquacity.sk was as never by the way. I will notice, what is it not a traditional aquapark, namely THERMAL park, with 4-mja thermal relaks pools (temperature different from 30 to 40С), a separate complex with various saunas, and even an ice cave (-15S) is available, in which it is possible to be cooled after a sweating room to 2-uh minutes.

Day the fourth. On May, 28th
In the morning it is left poprad and we move towards the following base of placing, a city the Loophole with indescribably beautiful Bojnitsky lock, but about him further for now we pass Slovak water basin Liptovska mara.

If who once is in those edges, on line Poprad-Zhilina there is a roadside small restaurant, is direct on the bank of water nadrzi (i.e. water basins) – a goulash there is simple obedene! Have called in to look at known aquapark Tatraljandija http://www.tatralandia.sk it many hills, children's playgrounds are calculated on children here, there we have gone was cold, saunas that day have been closed, well, and, in general, it not relaks park, and a noisy, children's attraction. On a way we call in in one thermal park Beshenova www.besenova.com Here too there are children's hills, but they as though in the distance from thermal pools, are not present vanity. We do a halt, we bathe hour two and further already without stops we go to the Loophole. Hotel "Loophole" we find at once, the double room with breakfasts manages in 30 euros days http://www.penzionbojnice.sk. Excellent otelchik, all very much chistenko, and is comfortable. Us have lodged in number with a kind on the Bojnitsky lock, but in it was a minus since Windows left on road, in the mornings was sometimes noisy, but then to move in other number to us it was simple oblom. We lodge and go to examine vicinities. The centre of settlement the Loophole is velikolepnejshy the Bojnitsky lock built in 12 century on a rock at bottom of mountains.

It was reconstructed some centuries, the one ten owners owing to what the stylistics changed from a gothic style to the Renaissance has replaced not, then baroque elements have been introduced. But the lock hour of triumph has come in 1852году, in days of possession of count Palfi. It was the unique person possessing riches and refined taste, say, today it would be the world designer. JAn Frantishek Palfi has developed scale reorganisation. As a result the Bojnitsky lock has turned to compilation of images of the well-known locks in a valley of Loire.

Internal furnish of this brilliant of Slovakia is executed in style of the Tyrolean gothic style, all furniture has been made to order. The picture gallery (Palfi was the notable collector) was saved, interiors of all halls and rooms are unique and various on stylistics. The count accepted direct participation in working out of design of furniture, chandeliers and even ladders. Alas, Palfi has not lived before the termination of the building started by it, has died in Vienna in 1908году. The count bequeathed all palaces in Vienna and Budapest and as the Bojnitsky lock of the public and, Thanks God, any sovdepovskaja a paw, and any fascist bomb has not ruined this treasure.
It is necessary to add, that in the lock the festival of reductions (the middle of May) is held, it is very a pity, we were late for it since were in the end of May. Round the lock the French park adjoining to a summer thermal swimming bath and a beach on green lawns, we there too have not got since the swimming bath is opened since June.

Day the fifth on May, 29th
Monday for the tourist day heavy on that to simply reason that all museums are closed. But all of us equally are going to in a way, the route is that: with. topolchanka (the summer residence Gabsburgov), is proud Banska SHtjavnitsa and Banska Bystritsa. On road to topolchanke we drive to any deaf jungle: mountains, woods, the road to these woods becomes absolutely narrow, BUT a covering excellent! The parking near palace park free, is not present anybody, well still it is Monday! The museum in a palace does not work, we have not seen a collection of historical furniture, ware, the weapon, a Turkish room, and also valuable library. In a palace there is a restaurant, kav'jarnja, hotel with quite comprehensible prices, here weddings more often are spent.

We walk on a well-groomed formal garden, we drink coffee in palace kafeshke, we are photographed. Near to park there is an operating stable (this one of palace buildings), it is possible to drive without ceremony on horses.

On road on Bansky SHtjavnitsu we pass district where building of a century is developed, is under construction avtoban and the mad outcome conducting to any huge industrial combine. The aunt from the personal computer of the newest road does not know, we have been sent by it to a detour through country ways. Quickly we get confused and constantly we rest against deadlocks, with the thrown farms. In general before we have got out on under construction, but opened for journey avtoban, it has been lost time a great lot. At last we in Bansky SHtjavnitse – a city of miners, here in days of Celts extracted in the open way gold and silver. During an epoch of the Middle Ages it was very rich and developed city. In the beautiful private residences which have not lost the nobleness and to this day, there lived well-founded owners of mines of drags. Metals. As the main attraction for tourists excursion by underground labyrinths by a special train serves. There are two locks old and new, but the arrangement of a city does not give possibility to look on them from apart. The matter is that all centre is continuous abrupt mountains, rassechennye the very narrow old small streets, the traditional central area in general is not present, as, however, and the modern buildings, the confused labyrinth of small streets on which unusual absence of people is noticed.

Rare kafeshki are absolutely empty or closed, any terrible sensation of a medieval plague covers at the sight of the baroque colonnade built by the Italian masters in honour of survived and in memory of victims during terrible epidemics.
On hours 18,00 and we in small town Banska Bystritsa – here all is already more cheerful, on the big central area the competitor of the Pizansky tower is a lot of pivnits, here to you

"Falling" hour tower (deviates an axis on 68 sm), original palace Turzo. Towards evening weather spoils, the strongest wind has risen, to walk on a city begins coldly and we come back in the Loophole.

Day of the sixth on May, 31st.
For today at us an exotic sauna in the city of Terchanske to a hothouse, the Roman fortress-lock in Trenchine and Peshtyny – the well-known resort.
Small town Trenchanske to a hothouse is very similar to Crimea – mountains, coniferous plants and in the centre the hugest Soviet cases-boxes of sanatorium with the name Crimea. Among these boxes it is found the purpose of visit to this small town – ancient Turkish bath Hammam. Any the Turk there, certainly, and in pomine is not present. The unusual thermal bath is based by Turks in 16 century, during invasion of Ottoman empire, subsequently it reconstructed in 1876, having saved interiors in Turkish style. It is necessary to notice, what we at all did not represent to ourselves, what is it such - a Turkish bath, and what there do in this Hammam? A building we find quickly,

But here is how there to get? An input it is not visible. We ask at local, we are directed to the next building where the aunt sits, by words not understanding us in any language, and that she quickly speaks on-slovatski, we do not understand. More shortly, it became clear, that Hammam there are for two 30 dollars and all process lasts 40 minutes. We pay money, to us give out any medical cards and explain, that now go go you …. To the doctor since without survey of the doctor in Hammam do not start up. Mda … visiting of Slovak doctors well was not included in any way into our plans. It is direct and do not know what to do, but to recede it would not be desirable, curiosity, desire to learn, that such thermal Hammam gets the best, we go to a building opposite, we find the office written out to us, vrachiha, sitting at him well absolutely not clear to us the text very quickly chatters. We blink and we explain that – turisto, we want, as though interest for the sake of, to be washed, to us historical party Hammam is curious, and here to treat us it is not necessary at all. The aunt has understood nothing and has gone on searches of the Russian understanding employee. The charming employee meets us a smile and words: «I congratulate you!» (Probably, she has forgotten as there will be a word zdraste or wished to tell вітаю!) Pleasant vrachiha very fluently speaks Russian, explains to us that only it is necessary to measure pressure. This swimming bath terribly useful, but with sick heart it is not recommended to people. Personally me have upset with that all Turkish beauty with carved arches and fontanchikami is only in man's branch, and the female branch is attached during Soviet times and there there are no east interiors. Men and women visit termal only separately and on sessions that eats at us a lot of time. Process: on a session (either man's, or female) collect the person 15-20, all come, to everyone allocate a booth-room separate as though with a bed laid by a blanket, all undress, go in per capita, then all go down in the big thermal pool (temperature +40). In him 20 minutes sit exactly. In pool it is impossible to float and move, nobody talks, all meditate in death silence. All body instantly becomes covered by small vials (as in soda water).cherez 20 minutes leave the bathhouse attendant (tsa), asks to leave, all are turned in white bedsheets, disperse on booths and..... Go to bed, having wrapped up in bedsheets and warm blankets..... rasslabuha the uttermost!!! To put it briefly, procedure at all does not invigorate, on the contrary run in sleepy, but the pacified condition. After we slowly we drink coffee/tea in city kav'jarne and we are pinned from that fact, that at us go to a sauna to drink beer, and here to sleep under a blanket. We come to conclusion, that on time from the schedule the famous resort Peshtjany, valuable the island of health with ancient thermal swimming baths already drops out.
The city of Trenchin shows at once the main sight, in city centre the mountain on which the Trenchansky lock based by Romans flaunts towers.

The lock history – is very volume, in territory palace buildings with various museums. We have gone to examine all this economy with excursion, but it has seemed to us very tiresome, in the lock modern repair, portrait gallery not so, and somehow to an eye no trouble to be hooked. The city makes the most pleasant impression, very cool fountain water, spitting out water streams directly upon one of the areas. Here we densely eat and we go back on base to the Loophole.

Day of the seventh on June, 1st.
This day we are moved from the Loophole and we move in small town Velki Meder, that in 70 km. From capital of Bratislava. Such choice has been made not casually, I will explain why. During preparation of round we have understood, that on survey of Bratislava the whole day, hotel and apartment there expensive quite will suffice us, with problem parkings well and besides in Velki Meder the excellent thermal park http://termalsro.dot.sk/sk/is constructed. Small town Velki Meder – absolutely mediocre provincial settlement of city type, but on suburb, round thermal park - the tourist small town, which all constructions is country houses, boards and mini hotels. All offered habitation is on a site of thermal park (section ubitovanie u partnerov) it is possible to lodge somewhere only at the coordination with the information centre, specified on this site. We lodge in hotel the Orchid http://www.hotelorchidea.sk (number 58 euros with breakfasts). As for this deaf district – very much even dorogovato, but during change of dates of our trip to us have given up in more budgetary habitation. Initially we reserved number in board «the Country house lux» 22 euros for double apartament, too as well as our Orchid is literally in 200 metres from thermal park. "Orchid" level very worthy, we did not regret. For today it would not be desirable any excursions, we floated in termale, drank beer, gained strength before a forthcoming trip to Bratislava.

Day of the eighth. On June, 2nd
To Bratislava from hotel have reached for 40 minutes, vperlis in the centre and have understood that with a parking simply pipe! All parkings, roadsides, court yard and streets are forced almost in two ranks, we cut circles on the central streets, we see a parking near the big Soviet hotel Kiev, 1 hour – 2евро, we put the car, we go to look round.

Through an old part of a city - small small streets and mini the areas we move towards the Bratislava lock. The lock somehow without special imagination, it name the turned table, it of the same straight line and idle time as a rectangular cover with 4-mja legs. In the lock – the Slovak national museum and a museum to folklore music. Interiors all entirely modern, have broken off we to go inside. From lock territory, all city is well looked through, we notice the free and very conveniently located parking – from the New bridge hardly more to the left, is direct under zamkovoj mountain. If who is in Bratislava – necessarily use, very convenient place for a parking and therefrom is easy to start to examine all city centre. We come into St. Martin's the most important church, here crowned the Hungarian monarchs.

The Staromestsky prospectus (is more correct prospektik, in the Bratislava centre there are no big streets and the areas) leads us to the Presidential palace,

Behind it public park in which trees are landed by presidents of the different countries. From Ukraine while only one tree, Kuchma's job in 2001, well che, grows!!! All central area – the foot small streets, very many are rummaged – there is a repair. We have dinner in one of numerous kafeshek, we leave and here a rain! Fortunately we already had time to comb all centre and to see all architectural masterpieces. We solve that under a rain well to take cover in huge shop IKEA. GPS quickly deduces us in the necessary direction. In shop we spend hour two buying up the necessary and unnecessary things for the house. Here we have estimated spaciousness of our luggage carrier! Have called in in the "Underground", to all owners metrovskih cards we inform – they work in all countries where there are these supermarkets. On an input in the presence of a card and the passport to you quickly write out a local time card and forward!
In suburb of Bratislava, over Danube, on a grief the rests of fortress Devin are visible. Local historians confirm, what is it the native land of all Slavs.

After these places were left by Romans for some reason women of a slavic nationality began the first to render habitable the left fortress. Here they enticed men, a part from them killed, and a part forced to work in the fields. It pricked out an eye and cut off the big finger that they could not own an onion and a sword. Finally muzhiks, have lifted revolt, all have won, a part of aggressive women have sunk, a fortress have burnt! There were from it one ruins yes a turret on a rock, called Maiden. Round a historical place the country park, here is a lot of bicyclists, there is a restaurant and hotel, near Danube the tablet – to cross on other coast it is forbidden – there other country, Austria.

The strong wind and thunderclouds do not allow to walk along Danube, we go back in Velki Meder.

Day the ninth on June, 3rd
Sad day – to us is time to Ukraine. We leave not so early, it seemed that all planned we will be in time. We go along border with Hungary already to the Ukraine, on road we visit small town Komarno with unusual architectural building. The city has been strongly destroyed and built up anew in 19 century. I do not know as this style is called, but for itself has defined it as gingerbread, simply toy small houses with big-bellied turrets flaunt in the small centre.

Somehow not clearly it is building of 19th century or modern, but on a condition of buildings nevertheless it seems that modern. As soon as have left from Komarno – the wild downpour, a wind, simply hurricane has begun. Moreover speed of movement zamedlenna the waggons which have arisen in a considerable quantity (earlier large transport on lines has not been noticed). It is Near proud Rozhnjava visiting of palace Betljar is planned

With refined interiors, a collection of east weapon, weight of unusual exhibits among which even the Egyptian mummy. All it were collected by the former owner - the Minister for Foreign Affairs of Austro-Hungarian empire Djula Andrashi. When we near an input in a palace have seen that it 30 minutes as was closed for internal excursions to affliction there was no limit. The strong downpour has not allowed to look huge park with falls. Evening comes nearer and in one of the most interesting locks Is red-hill, being nearby we already too are not in time. For own consolation we throw in a coin fountain that will necessarily return here still! Ahead to border even more 200 km. And possible huge turn on entrance to Ukraine, it is necessary to hurry. The border has been passed for 1 hour, on departure from Slovakia all is much easier. On entrance the turn was even more than that in which there were we.
Only 20 minutes and in outer darkness, on absolutely killed roads of Uzhgorod, GPS all results us on spending the night in the same Kamelot. Well, hi, the Native land, travel it is ended. We did not have not enough exactly one day for survey of all planned, hope, on following, more long trip it will be possible to grasp a slice of Slovakia to see Betljar and the lock Is red-hill.
If to whom it is necessary GPS TomTom with maps, we swing here http://4pda.ru/forum/index.php? showtopic=12422
Total, it has been passed 3600км
It is for two spent:
Habitation - 327 dale. 7 nights in Slovakia + 80 dale of 2 nights in Kamelote (Uzhgorod)
diz fuel (at them 1,20 euros for litre) + parkings 220 dale.
Swimming baths, museums, an other 150 dale.
A food, beer 270 dale.
In addition were much spent for purchases, but this business already individual.

[On main]