The car: Citroen Berlingo (diesel engine)
The general kilometric area: 4500км
Part 1.
Why holiday in Poland? Very much it would be desirable the boundless sea, picturesque locks, autumn dvortsovo-park beauty and nearby to go, and that for small money. With such introduction Poland – the correct decision, especially we for some reason there never were. Have conceived to drive from Baltic to It is dug, the trip program as included Slovakia which this spring we have combed absolutely EVERYTHING, very much it was pleasant to us, but because of shortage of time remained not examined a couple of places. As a result the trip has gone right, in many respects thanks to councils and recommendations of dear participants of a forum, big human thanks all!
On road to border have stopped in the city of Lutsk for lock survey, it has appeared there is nothing to look there, the lock, fairly to tell, any. In the city has pleased only a bar-club the Maidan, thanks, Kokos, very class place! Have set towards border, with arrival on one of Shatsky lakes - Svitjaz further.
Have stayed the night near border in hotel Euro (100грн number of Ljuboml; bodies: (03377) 24-904), on road the nice hotel-restaurant complex «Машівский бір» (c.Машов Ljubomsky r-n, bodies has been noticed. (03377) 33191, 33192, 33176), here number costs 150грн, good restaurant, pleasant territory with artificial lake.
We were waited by the sated day and not to get stuck in turn on border, transition have planned for 5 mornings. Cars practically was not, all procedure has occupied 30 minutes, and here, in morning darkness we drive to Poland. As soon as have rolled out for a barrier, через150 metres us the Polish cops brake and is very intelligible on-polski explain, that we move with the switched off headlights, ups! Also dimensions are switched really on only, on a check point have switched off light that nobody to blind and simply had not time to switch on a headlight. We try to move down and somehow otmazatsja, but politsai take away documents and firmly insist for 100 zloties. In general, have stupidly dissolved us on money, the truth, having written out the receipt. It it is necessary so to spoil mood already in 4 mornings of Polish time!
For anybody not a secret that in Warsaw inexpensive hotels and apartments in the centre are not present. Therefore, choosing from the hotels removed from the centre, have stopped the choice on hotel Porthos (it is a network of inexpensive hotels, have chosen this from all since photos of numbers have seemed the most comprehensible) As a result habitation remained are absolutely happy. The hotel looks unattractively, in a sovok way: a panel box, resepshen and corridors from the last century, but number super! A comfortable, spacious, excellent various breakfast (buffet). If to pay on the Internet 33 dollars for a double turn out, the closed parking and 2 breakfasts have managed in 10 dollars.
There is a stereotype, that in Warsaw to look there is nothing. I think, it is incorrect. In my opinion, Warsaw - an excellent city, is not worse nearly than Krakow.
Since the autumn – time of parks, Warsaw an autumn city, here is where to take a walk. The palace on water Lazenki (in a palace had not time to get), this dvortsovo-park ensemble in the centre of Warsaw has very much liked, in a pond there live huge big fishes, on green lawns peacocks with ducks run.
Excellent palace and park Vilnev, in a palace an exhibition of portrait painting. Vilnev is on southern suburb of a city, it is summer residence of king Yana Sobesskogo.
In the Royal castle one big museum
– Have quickly run, the rich marble room with portraits of the Polish kings was remembered only, on the top floor there passed an exhibition of luxury goods from silver – here it was pleasant and remembered. It is pleasant to walk on small small streets of the Old city with silent cafes and ethnic cuisine small restaurants, and then to feel bright contrast, having appeared in modern Warsaw with glass skyscrapers and restaurants in style find fault flew.
To Warsaw at us it has been taken away all a floor of day, and it is a pity, here it is necessary, unequivocally to spend at least all the day. To get the Polish zloties is better here since only in Warsaw there was the most favourable exchange 1дол=3,14злот. Further on all country there was a terrible course 3,04.
On road from Warsaw in Gdansk have stopped off at the city of Torun, known untouched the time and war by medieval architecture, spice-cakes and Nicolaus Copernicus.
Here the person who has declared was born, that the earth turns, the truth, Dzhordano Bruno has died for it. In a city there is absolutely small, but very old planetarium (near it it is convenient to park the car). On same ul Franciskanska there is pitserija a Zebra – an interior mediocre, but pitsa – obedenie! The city has very much liked, and here their well-known spice-cakes - are not present, at us in shops are on sale is more tasty.
Part 2.
Towards evening have reached to Baltic trehgardja. trehgrade represents association of three seaside cities of Gdynias, Sopot and Gdansk, between them there is no accurate border, they flow one in another, but the difference between them has appeared notable. For residing we have chosen resort Sopot from three cities. Gdynia and Gdansk is seaports, accordingly the sea to us not to see, and so it would be desirable to walk in the evenings on coast of Baltic.
Sopot, with its resort atmosphere, and huge beaches has appeared that city, that it is necessary to us. Have lodged in super comfortable APARTMENT with an underground parking of all for 35 euros a day. All recommends this habitation, the sea nearby (through a path to pass), to the centre, on a beach 800метров, the house absolutely new 2005.
The small town Sopot has very much liked at once us. Huge, nagretyj the sun and the main thing the empty beach forced to spend near exhausting more time, than it was supposed. If would know that will be as summer of heat +30, would remain here on longer. Bathe in Baltic sea walruses can only since the temperature of water does not rise above +16, +18 in the summer. At the height of a summer season in Sopot it is A LOT OF people (we saw photos), it all the same that the hammered beaches in Odessa.
Along the sea lasts 2-uh kilometre park with avenue which we have nicknamed «health Avenue» since on rollers and bicycles people of all age, nationalities and even with chest children here drive.
We too leased bicycles www.rowerownia.gda.pl (hire 1 it is great for 2 hours – 12зл = 19грн) and dissected along the sea. For us it was super entertainment since last time went for a drive on velikah about 20 years ago.
The most known place in Sopot is 500 metre pier (pier). In the middle of 19 centuries this pier divided female swimming baths from man's, now this place of walks (an input paid). Fairly to tell – anything interesting – a pier as a pier.
The special attention is deserved by thousand kafeshek, everyone is very interestingly issued, such variety of pubs is not present either in Gdynia, or in Gdanske more. The most known street of Sopot of street of heroes Monte-Kassino, the most known building - the Curve house with set of bars and restaurants, opposite eclectic on design, very cosy French cafe, in the Indian style is issued launzh-bar Osh, and the most pleasant – the prices - do not bite at all!
Gdynia there was absolutely not resort, namely a seaport. Port here huge (as 2 Odessa). In Gdynia, as well as in Gdanske, car ferries go.
In city centre there is a huge pier, is very similar on mor. Station in Odessa. A pier it is possible to drive by the car, on the right side there will be an oceanarium, on us has not made any impression, a scoop.
Probably, the main sight of Gdynia is the huge ware market, we there were not, passed by. It something of type of the Odessa Supply and 7th kilometre in one.
Gdansk – still bolshy a seaport, in area of the sea and port we did not call in at all since to us have told, what is it an industrial zone. And here city centre absolutely small, but what unusual!
All the matter is that still at 16-17 centuries here was settled by merchants from Amsterdam for this reason architecture Gdanska so reminds Holland.
The city during war has been practically wiped off the face of the earth, therefore all buildings in Gdanske the exact copies which anew have been built up. Sights Gdanska are well described on the Internet and guidebooks, I will not retell.
Helsky plait. First on road on a plait we have called in in recommended respected Fencer the lock Sobessky, (now it is expensive restaurant and hotel) there really it is necessary to have dinner, very tasty national soup zhurek, we confirm! Here we were resulted by desire to drive on park, along the sea on horses. All was possible, rent of 2 horses on a floor of hour has managed to us in 60 grn, pleasures have received weight!
On horses it is possible to drive practically in all palaces-hotels, but there are ridiculous nuances, but about it not it is interesting to all. After a palace have set towards the city of Hel (Hel). During preparation for a trip the plait, read extent, that of 34 km, very narrow, places to 200 metres at width and it seemed rather interesting since would be cool to appear in the middle of water – on the one hand a gulf, with another the high sea, and in the middle, on a narrow strip of road, you by the car. In a reality there was all not so – a plait, places taki-yes narrow, but to see the sea and a gulf it is impossible since are lengthways expensive - wood, behind trees a fig it is not visible, well go to itself on usual wood road and all. From the helicopter it looks so
On the very brink of a plait – the former fishing small village, now tourist small town Hel. Here there is a small museum of protection exhausting open-air with pools for fur seals. At certain o'clock (10,12,15) they arrange representation for spectators. Main counter Helja are fish bars, in one of them is 36! Grades of fish, under rather reasonable prices (it is a lot of fish, seafood, salads and beer - 100 grn for two at the most central restaurant).
If who appears in those edges, I will notice what to go by the car on a plait, probably, and it is not necessary since from Sopot, Gdanska and Gdynia, time boats go to ways to Helja 20 minutes in one party, it much more pleasantly and faster. By the way, between the cities of Trehgradja too there is a sea message.
To one of days have gone in Malborok, the huge lock of the Teutonic award (the road to one party occupies 2,5 hours). In premises practically anything is not present, here it is necessary to wander simply on a labyrinth of small streets in the lock, it is the whole city.
Because of it is lazy-otdyhatelnoj the atmosphere reigning in Sopot from the planned program had not time to look: a church with a beautiful legend in the Olive; a museum of ancient furniture in Gdanske; an amber museum in Gdanske; the Wood opera in Sopot; lock Kvidzyn (Kwidzin); still here this lock. Perhaps someone will reach to these places, will share impressions.
Separately it would be desirable to tell about road Gdansk-Krakov. It seems to All of us, that is more awful than the Soviet roads of anything is not present, and so is! Well, yes, a covering to think up ours it is difficult worse, but the Polish 100-kilometre stoppers on lines irritate much more than the military-Ukrainian road Stryj-was equally. The important line connecting the north and the south of the country Gdansk-Krakov long in 600км on 70 % consists of repair, cars nemerenno and all dvizhutsja with a speed 20km/hour! Decent words for the description of this toffee are not present. In general, after that moving we had an opinion what to travel on the car across Poland it is possible for people only with very strong nerves. As a result of 600 km we crept 15 hours!
Part 3.
Krakow. This city does not require comments. I will note only pair of personal impressions. In Vavele we have decided to visit more, have as a result killed on it 4 hours and were razocharovanny an exposition, as in that joke «chistenko, but bednenko». Have visited a treasury, basically it is a weapon exhibition, there is nothing to look there more, personal and official apartments brag only of a collection of gobelins and no more. The royal park is a natural mockery at tourists, we were horrified simply!!!
That that you see on a photo the park is called, and it is ALL park!
Cathedral, really, a place worthy obligatory visiting in Vavele. The Marjatsky church – is not present words, beauty nevymovna, is delightful! Have visited the Engineering museum (ul. Sw. Wawrzynca15 c 10 to 16), a cool museum, here not only it is possible to smile near to here such machine,
But to spend a number of research experiments, having recollected a school course of physics,
Word, a museum for fans of all popular scientific, we the big fans. The museum Chartorysky, earlier very much not conveniently buried in 15,30, now on all working days is opened до18,00, and during week-end till 19.00 (it for some reason is not specified on a museum site). For the sake of interest, have visited a museum of the Japanese culture and technics (the technics was a keyword for us, but it just and has not appeared), a museum boring, but in him is excellent kafeshka with very tasty cottage cheese cake, and a kind on a summer platform simply shaking!
We have called in on Kostjushkin a hill (if to stand a back to Vavelju, and faced to Vistula – on a grief it is possible to see the green hill twisted with footpaths, it and is Kostjushkin a hill),
From which opens potrjasnyj a kind to all Krakow if you have a field-glass, you by all means should call in here! Not having it is necessary to wait for own optical device long to look in the public. Full sensation of helicopter excursion over a city.
With a parking in Krakow it was necessary to choose from inexpensive habitation from not comfortable in the centre and very comfortable on suburb, lived here. Since in Krakow we have stopped not for one night, and on three - have chosen the second, habitation remained are very happy. The bus goes to city centre strictly under the schedule, from the house to a foot zone by the thin bus ровно15 minutes, the transport schedule is given kindly by a receiving party, the ticket for our money 3 grn.
The Krakow area is generous on sight, but known we have chosen the most unknown, but as there was, extremely beautiful place – a palace in Pzhizhine (Pszczyna) from all, these are 83 km on the West from Krakow. It is a pity, that there is no Russian-speaking information on a palace and its owners, in my opinion it is one of the best museums in Poland.
I urgently recommend for visiting to fans of beautiful palace interiors. Beauty of a palace and the information in English here http://www.zamek-pszczyna.pl the Ex-terrier of a palace now on reconstruction, but the eye pleases a formal garden with huge green lawns,
The lake with a tea small house and small town leaves the most pleasant impression.
Part 4.
After Krakow we have gone to mountains, to border with Slovakia. On road have paid attention to a city New targ (Nowy targ), here very much a wide range and the cheap prices for products from fur and a skin. In Zakopane have approached on the central foot street, have looked on the parties and not leaving at all from the car have gone further, anything interesting in a city have not seen, very mediocre small town on visual perception.
Near to polsko-Slovak border
Polsko-Slovak border have passed for 3 minutes, not leaving from the car, and foolish questions any to you on the nuclear weapon and heroin suitcases. As it is pleasant to appear after Poland on absolutely empty roads of Slovakia! For the big cars driving across Slovakia costs money, here quotations (a course of a Slovak crone 1доллар=30,29крон)
Near to High tatr it is the most convenient to stop in poprade, small private board "Барбарка" so liked us last time, has met us as native. The big thermal aquapark in poprade Akvasiti was as obligatory point of our program. In last poezku across Slovakia we had not time to subdue the highest top of Tatra mountains – Tatransky lomnitsu (2600м).
To rise more close to Bozhenke costs not cheaply - 70 dollars for two (from coffee, tea among clouds), but it of that, undoubtedly, costs!
After dizzy travel on heavens it is good to relax in thermal swimming bath Vrbov (Termalne kupalisko, Vrbov, tel. 052-4523479, they have a site, it is a pity, shchas I can not find). It is located in very pleasant park, at a foot of mountains,
Here some thermal pools, are kafeshki and absolutely inexpensive restaurant. The swimming bath works all year long, but I do not represent as here bathe in the winter since from per capita and locker rooms to pools of metres 150-200, as people, wet, during snow and a frost (bbrrrr, horror!) move on park??!! With weather to us has inexpressibly carried, the heat in +30 has left on a beach at pool see you in the evening.
Further in the program visiting of palace Betliar (Betliar) and the lock the hill Is red. For this purpose it is necessary will move on the country south, to the city of Rozhnjavu nearest to these places. Moving from the north of Slovakia on the south has occupied only 2,5 hours on picturesque, ABSOLUTELY EMPTY road through Low Tatra mountains.
In Rozhnjave have stayed the night in hotel Atrium (30 dollars for a double with a microscopic omelette for a breakfast).otelchik so-so to spend the night one night it is possible, but it is better nevertheless in those edges will stop here http://www.kastielbetliar.sk (the same 30 dollars, but otelchik it will be better), it is hotel at a palace.
Part 5.
Since the morning have jerked in [url = www.muzeum.sk/defaulte.php? obj=muzeum&ix=mbe_snm_gal] Betliar (Betliar) [/url].
In 1840 count Andrashi (this Hungarian richest sort owned some territories in Slovakia), and here was, once, the owner of this real estate this mister, years so on five has decided to go on leave, and together with the son has gone to travel across Africa and the East. In a current of 5 years they filled up the hunting house with a collection of the African, Chinese, Turkish weapon, fantastic Indian furniture of manual job, from pyramids in Giza have secured the Egyptian mummy and more weight of surprising subjects. Yes, souvenirs earlier people bought the impressive! Personally for me remains a riddle as in the middle of 19th century it was possible to send in a current of several years to the Eastern Europe such volume private parcels, in the absence of an exit to the sea? On the second floor of a palace of a room of various mission, special admiration is called by huge library,
And other premises are noteworthy. The part of interiors can be seen [url=http://www.muzeum.sk/defaulte.php? obj=muzeum&ix=mbe_snm_gal] here [/url]
The lock the hill Is red is the defensive works surrounded with mountains, in very picturesque place,
But inside the lock is a little ascetic, though some zamkovye interiors with furniture and personal subjects Andrashi were saved. Inside as there is a mausoleum of sort Andrashi. Lock and palace survey has occupied a floor of day, further we move towards Ukraine, remained the floor of day is spent in already known to us on last trip the city of Koshitse.
Here we reserved hotel Kohal on an Internet (http://www.hotelkohal.sk/) which actually has appeared rare gadjushnikom, after survey of numbers of a different price category we have quickly left. As a result to live it was necessary for 60 dollars in HOTEL AKADEMIA
Adresa: Juzna trieda 10, Tel.: 00421-55726 07 00 E-mail: recepcia@zsjuznake.sk Fairly to tell the hotel of the money well in any way does not cost, it is a scoop with the claim for European-quality repair, unique advantage it is an arrangement – 8 minutes on foot to the central street.
All the evening long have decided to spend in process vypivanija and ethnic cuisine eating at numerous small restaurants Koshitse. The most pathos restaurant of a city – the Celtic kolyba (ul. Hlavna 80 tel 0905 114 171, 055 622 53 28), it is issued in the Celtic style – a stone, kovka, a tree, candles on tables. The place very popular, without a reservation is difficult to find a little table. To have a drink the Czech beer on draught on 4грн for 0,5 and to try Czech, Hungarian and a Slovak cuisine it is possible on ul. Hrnciarska 17 (it is opened with 7 to 22), here very low prices, it is thus tasty and it is pleasant. Nearby, behind a corner one of two confectioner's shops Aida (it is opened with 9 to 22), cakes here simply amazing. Owing to that I passionately like pies and cakes in tsukarni, кав‘ярні and confectioner's shops we come everywhere, but sweets in koshitskoj Aide it simply fairy tale! Very much the wide range casting Czech in Lamparne (ul Hlavna 115), the menu offers many versions zharennyh cheeses. The same that in Prague only much less and free of charge was the termination of evening koshitsky a musical fountain.
Last day of stay in Slovakia, on road to Ukraine have called in to look a unique miracle of the nature, unique in Europe the Herljansky geyser, all in 60 km from Uzhgorod (Herlany, OU Herlany, tel.: +421-55-696 41 22). In an Internet in Slovak language have got the following information: the geyser from depth of 450 metres of times 34-36 minutes beats on height of 20 metres and all this representation a floor of hour lasts. When we have approached on destination, have noticed as the crowd of tourists disperses, we were late literally for 5 minutes. Well, it doesn't matter – we have thought, after all in 30 minutes for all of us will repeat again. Have sat down, we wait, a floor of hour has passed, and the geyser all is not present.... We ask passers-by, where this your miracle? And to us answer: the geyser will be the day after tomorrow.... – we in a shock! It appears, it beats time at 34-36 o'clock, instead of the minutes, we have understood other information correctly. In general if who passes, it is necessary to call by above-stated phone and to learn when there will be a geyser, perhaps will carry to see.
The border in 14,30 "has pleased" with decent turn to Ukraine, in the opposite direction from Ukraine to Slovakia of cars was not in general, and it is surprising, usually here hundreds gasoline tank trucks suit stoppers lasting many hours on frontier posts. Fast enough advancement in this solid turn was strange also, in 2,5 hours we already sat in «Detse at notarja» where the Ukrainian vodka under borshchik and kruchenyki has softened collision with the holiday termination.
On a note going to to Poland:
Shopping in Poland is pleasant – the prices not on many below ours, but the choice is more. Sejlovye the prices much below ours rasprodazhnyh. In Warsaw in shops the Kiev prices, but are the cheap ware market Stadium (we there were not), to Lodz there is a huge shopping centre the Manufactory (recently has opened), here there the prices simply landslide, as in this city of the wholesale centres on sale of fabrics, the big ware market in Gdynia (near to port have been noticed many).
On the travel we at all have not seen the western Poland but if someone's route lies in the western direction, survey the eclectic fantastic lock in small town the Purse (near Opole) is worthy. On the Internet write, that there now hotel, there is an elite stable, round the big park, think, there is what to look! Have very much impressed photos of Renaissance lock Hohbergov in Ksenzh (near to Vrotslava) the Residence totals 400 premises in different architectural styles. Lock Kurnik unusual to Poland (near Poznan) in style of an English neogothic style.
From Poland it is necessary to carry local alcoholic tinctures on grasses, 40 and above degrees (they it name liquors). In the Gladiolus report krakow.html about all of them it is written, I will add only two more drinks. Wodka Zoladkowa gorzka is at all vodka, and more pleasant mint medicine, personally at me after the two-day use there has passed a bronchitis. Try to buy very original drink with flakes zolotinok «Gold vodnitsa», now it make in Poznan (to us has not carried to buy). Once this strong liquor merchants marked successful transactions, for solemnity pjanki in a drink added mosaic gold, that now in the form of gold particles – I do not know, but on taste is sweet – drank it once in Kiev. To buy alcohol it is necessary in the centre, in special small little shops where sell alcohol. In the big supermarkets local alcohol practically is not presented, there it is better not to buy. How much alcohol it is possible to take out, alas, I do not know, we carried much, but us on one border did not examine.