Some go to tour agencies, tour agencies or other "sources" of the organised rest, others "jump" in the plane and go to study the distant countries, and many - from a sofa prefer "fantastic travel" … To us has had the luck not to get to one of these categories thus, that our family is the owner of several firms, among which and … tourist:
And who these "we"??? The daddy 40 + mum both 37th years and two daughters 17 and 9th years.
So, on May, 8th, 2004 four competitors, having loaded in avto and having armed with listing of a known site "AsInfo" under a heading "what to look", goes from native Khmelnitskiy towards Carpathians.
The Ternopol area with its "any" roads and "vechnoneobedavshimi" GAI OFFICERS was the first sight on a way to desired Carpathians. These two troubles always stand on a way wishing to get to Carpathians. Such impression, that the Ternopol GAI has ten thousand employees from hundreds thousand radar. They in a complex guard roads to all natural shelters on roadsides on all nice Ternopolshchine sitting, laying, standing. If did not correct "not to pay", to us obviously would not suffice is blood-earned for rest not only in Carpathians, but also on own summer residence. Backs from reports of militian assistants to tourist movement on Ternopolshchine were the first "karpatskimi" trophies.
Not looking on what by a dinner of the same day of a wheel Prikarpatye, Ukraine, the CIS … have resulted us in JAremchu. "Passing" through picturesque karpatskie foothills necessarily you recollect and you purr: "… the coast Turkish … is not necessary to us". Krasotishcha!!! By the general voting it has been solved - we ALREADY have left knowingly. Following "guidebook", have started to search for a place for the first stop. For this purpose in JAremche the main thing - to be able to read "inscriptions on a fence" as at Ilfa and Petrov since in this case you will always find a place to liking - practically all private houses are transformed in private "hotels, motels, gostinnitsy, parkings, campings" - choose! Have a rest! Admire!
The private hotel "At Бабчуків" has been chosen. It if you try to "rush" on the bridge on the departure from JAremchi and thus a wheel krutnulsja to the right, you will not fall in the rough river the Rod, and will get on congress to the specified private residence. Negotiations with the owner about the device for days have occupied 30,2 seconds. Four happy travellers for any 300 Ukrainian griven, rescued in fights for justice from Ternopol "vechnoneobedavshih" will melt time owners of a smart private residence on the bank of the mountain river and at a foot of picturesque mountains. Here and all set wishing from printsi Impressions have amplified, when we have entered into the house: the wooden ladder, two bedrooms upholstered with a tree, a bathroom and per capita in the best traditions of "rotting" abroad and … a balcony directly over roaring river.
And air???!!! What Turk, the Tunisian or the Spaniard can "on a freebie" take a breath of such air? "Fly, pigeons, fly" is about those who flied at this time to the same Turks, to Tunisians or Spaniards.
But time to relax was not … In the guidebook following point restaurant "Гуцульщина" visiting where we amicably and have gone appeared.
Who happened, that knows - two halls of a wooden structure - and are known "Gutsulshchina". In the first, as well as it is necessary to a solid institution, "dancing" on which "it is dashing vzharivali a tap dance" from tens mestno-visitors of little girls under an active song a-lja Serdjuchka, executed by the soloist with long hair in a "national" jeans suit. Under this melody in national rhythms we have reserved the most exotic dish from a local cuisine - a potato "fri" with not less national mayonnaise. And what it was necessary to do? "Nemirov" who, as is known - "all over the world", has added sensations of purely national colour.
But not food uniform the traveller is live!!! The singer in the first hall has stopped to sing repertoire of Belief Ivanovny Serdjuchki (in girlhood - Danilko) and … has calmed down … In the second hall there were MUSIC (with an accent on "y"). Our gallant four spoilt by water Khmelnitskiy water and zatjukannaja by standard smash hits of last years, has forgotten about national-karpatskom "fritjurennom" a potato and nemirovskom domination in the world when music have played and have started singing. It-is unforgettable!!! What gop-tsa-tsa present executors will be compared to these "And on that боці …", "CHeremshina" and others, others, others. Low bow by this present Karpattsam! To the present actors!
But what is it???!!!! That appears in a hall long-haired, jeans Serdjukoved! All anything (whether it is not enough of them on open spaces Nenki?), but hysterical shout: "Andrjushenka!!!" And other epithets connected with idolatry (well, for example, the request to undersign for the book of expensive visitors) have forced to forget about natural propensity to crystal modesty and to request the report of the waiter on what of celebrities has visited "Gutsulshchinu", is trampled down from us in 3 metres, and at us even murashki on a skin not shevoljatsja??? It became a little easier, when we have learnt, that long-haired - not Kuchma, not Fidel Castro and at all Boris Moiseyev, and - … … … … ITSELF … …. The ALE-KRAVCHUK!!! It was possible to expect Castro and Moiseyev's duet, but A.Danilko's repertoire in execution an Andrjushi-ALE-kravchuka at restaurant "Гуцульщина" under "zafritjurennyj!" Mister "nemiroffom" the potato is that still an extreme!!! The oldest daughter who has afforded (though also whisper) to express the personal opinion concerning appearance of a sex symbol of the Ukrainian platform (speak, there is a such!!! Also do not argue!!!) has received a clip since such turns of speech in a family are not studied …
Tired, but happy we overflowed with feeling of a touch to Great, on a full stomach have jerked to the falls roaring behind restaurant. The thin bridge has resulted us on the market karpatskih souvenirs. It is got for the Ukrainian money of type grivni (here in a fantastic way, that the Ternopol GAI OFFICERS remained hungry!!!): 1. The axe of the Huzul woodcutter in a miniature for nostalgic pomahivanija after returning, 2.иные souvenirs from a category "I was in Carpathians!", and also it is got "for free" a method "strelnut" - in number of 1 piece at the local citizen, not capable to feel in space to most tomorrow (intoxication of average degree). Cigarettes in radius of shops of the souvenir market - was not and it was not expected.
And fermentation on rocks over raging falls - vodopadikom (here where to be alloyed!!!) - impressions unforgettable! A photo and video data - to that acknowledgement.
Returning in manor Бабчуків and high-grade rest in a wonderful place this has finished the first karpatsky day.
Ahead there were adventures in Zakarpate …
Next morning, having said goodbye to owners, we have moved on conquest of Carpathians.
Under "guidebook" further there was a complex of salty lakes in area Solotvino. Looking at magnificent landscapes behind a window avto (we moved through mountain passes), anybody and has not had time to come round as we have appeared at majestic falls which are not designated neither on one tourist map, nor in one directory across Carpathians. Water with a roar "departed" under road and got to the mountain river (as karpatskie "teapots", we - have suspected, what is it was the Yew). Local umeltsy have created a viewing platform with a canopy where we have successfully spent a photo-and video - shootings. The daddy, as usual, slazil on slippery stones along falls upwards, has not become wet yet from flying water and the begun rain. A short stop highly above over falls, and ….2 variants of descent: 1.по to water with 150 %-s' blow-at first about a viewing platform, then - about road or - 2.по to slippery stones downwards back. Some squeals of younger travellers + a little sedenkih hair in a charming head of hear of mum - and the daddy has taken the place at the wheel avto … Travel proceeded.
We had not time to think that have not met after Ternopol super - mega - give - assistants to traffic of any carrier a bucket - of similar caps (for inscrutable or lazy readers - of GAI - GIVE - employees!) as it is-is equal in the middle of mountain road there were workers from department "Border on the lock, pockets - at your service", and two gallant ensigns from boundary guards Independent Рідной Ukraine. (To a word - the author faced time and again representatives of the given service on boundless cordons of Ukraine and responsibly declares, that never was a case that present green-spotty peak-caps did not hint at "sharing" of bank notes, not in favour of the author, certainly. If there are at someone doubts, is ready to prove it in practice. Dear organizers ASINFO! From 1.09.04 I offer new competition: "Travel and a bribe. As I was rescued". It is assured - a release from writers and poets will not be.)
So, the whole two ensigns!!! In a border zone we as skilled autogoers, passports held on call. On absolute vysokointellektualnye questions: "Where?" Answered correctly and in detail: "There" (the finger of the daddy specifies forward along road), "Whence?" ….otvet: "Therefrom" (a finger of the daddy tychet towards a luggage carrier), "the Purpose?" …. The answer: "Wedding travel" (in the opinion of questioning - there is a first thought! - a sight at documents of children and their owners!) after such fruitful dialogue with representatives of the locked border and a mental oath on blood - "not to break, not to blow up, through border on the river not to run, a floor-mat in mountains not to swear" we continue a way free citizens.
But far from it!!! Ahead - the CENTER of Europe!!! Stop the Iron Mare!!! All for a board!!! The centre of Europe in any way!!! Moreover "Geographical". To what testifies stella with numerous inscriptions passing, for example: "Munja - the goat"or"Here was Bambulo", etc. Despite of everything, in this place covers any religious-political ecstasy from a touch to the eternal!!! Judge: well also what from this, what we the poor plundered country with the hardworking and deceived people??? But, we TOO have a GEOGRAPHICAL CENTER of Europe!!! And how?-Near Plzenja in Czechia-is??? (смотреть:http://www.zagran.kiev.ua/article.php? new=199&idart=1994) is???, vslovakiiest??? (смотреть:http://www.cargoinfo.com.ua/country/33_slovakia.htm)-is!!!!, in Lithuania-is??? (смотреть:http://gmtravel.com.ua/? menuID=4&cityID=206) eeest!!!! …. And at us "украЇнців May buti"!!!! And involuntarily you recollect the citation: " Гeoгpaфичecкий цeнтp Eвpoпы - мecтo, гдe cхoдятcя cинуcы and кocинуcы cил, гдe дpeмлют тaблицы кopнeй пoгpaничники five гocудapcтв, гдe гpaницы oтвepдeвaют, a people paзмягчaютcя and oтpывaютcя oт coбcтвeнных cудeб, гдe вce кoнтуpы двoятcя and нaклaдывaютcя oдин нa дpугoй, кaк пaкeт cлaйдoв, гдe cквoзят and пpocвeчивaют дpуг чepeз дpугa, дpуг дpугa зacвeчивaют эпoхи and этнocы - дpяблaя cepдцeвинa eвpoпeйcкoгo дepeвa, кaк вcякaя cepдцeвинa, гoдящaяcя тoлькo нa кapaндaши and cпички also watch. "And we will write down - we were in the centre of Europe!!!
Ahead desired (oe) Solotvino, salty lakes with tempting prospect-fall a paunch in water and thus not to sink - salt holds!!!)! Forward!
Without undue incident we arrive into place. The network of lakes is entangled by fences, buildings (and beautiful houses are able to build of a tree hardworking zakarpattsy!!!) and ….nikakogo desires to flop in water as reservoirs remind pools near our summer residence. No doubt - for certain - medical, for certain - valuable, for certain - unique, but the reminder on pools near a summer residence forces to move further to following sights Zakarpatja ….
And more it is-a few about people of this edge.
Supervision from May, 9th (for those who works in stuffy high offices I remind - Day of the Victory!). On all Zakarpatju where we went in cities and villages - elegant children bore flowers to the monuments, open soldiers of Red Army. It is a lot of, many children. It to that in Capital try to equate this holiday to Day of the Ukrainian Hairdresser and refer to "concordant" western regions. And we have seen this day in Zakarpate, that here for a long time there is no that concept who was with whom and for whom. Flowers peacefully bore and to "red" monuments, and to "вільним" to hills with crosses. And then, for certain, all together went to celebrate this day "that there was no war". This deviation from a theme - one more stroke to a portrait kind, hardworking, hospitable karpatskogo the people. BOW to YOU, PEOPLE!
And ahead there was a Valley of narcissuses.
The nourishing dinner was in one of roadside cafes (with uminaniem all offered national dishes and with memoirs nationalist kartopli "fri" in "Gutsulshchine"). Here impressions have added that supervision as workers of cafe caught live fish from artificial pool. At first rybyohu tried to catch a net, then, having caught, threw out on asphalt. Fish jumped on parking place, jumped on cowls and luggage carriers expensive avto, jumped under them, not wishing to participate in a high rating of an institution under the offer of dishes of ethnic cuisine.
Still slightly kilometres and - turn under Hustom in the Valley of narcissuses. The strong rain welcomed us near the partitioned off entrance to a valley. Minutes 20 have spent for comprehension of that for a separate symbolical payment to narcissuses it is possible to drive on avto. Have gone!!!
I will report on you - such it is necessary to look!!! From different directions you are surrounded by millions colours! Here it is precisely believed, that in this reserve we ahead "planets of all"!!! A similar picture, only from poppies and violets, we saw only in Crimea. But there - poppies, and here - narcissuses!!! The subconsciousness spoilt by the "yellow" press shouts: "Have spread!!!", and the reason rejects conjectures and understands - it is impossible, a nature gift to the future person - here what is it such!
Made dizzy by a smell, struck seen, we "taxi" further - for us waits Sinevir!!!
From Husta the way lays for mezhgore. The mountain road conducts along the picturesque river. The family legend has been composed directly in a way. Short, but capacious!
The new President has come somehow for a long time to Ukraine. All was good in Ukraine, but one trouble did not allow to sleep easy to the President, Rade, to the Government - the river from Husta to mezhgorja remained without the name. All were going to for the first time listed together and began dumku to guess - that with the name to do? Three days and three nights thought. The best djadki - experts helped! And for the fourth day, having applied all mind, experience and intelligence have thought up!!! Also have named neatly and capaciously river: …. "Ріка"!!!! About road along it have forgotten, and the name have thought up!!! Such here the legend has been made on the broken road to mezhgorja.
At entrance to Reserve representatives of local Club of fans of the nature (read - ecological services) have pleased: took money two times, in two different places on one road for same. Here though it is not a pity - if will not steal, can on road will spend.
Here and Sinevirsky lake! To describe impression - business ungrateful! It is necessary to see such places!!! It is a fairy tale in a real life. Here any more to an inventing of legends, here sacred belief in already combined by centuries about Sine and Vire.
Who will guess from three times - where we, tired have stopped on a lodging for the night? Correctly! Good fellows! Have guessed! - on a camp site "the Sea Eye". Because on the bank of lake of others also is not present. In each number - the eurofurnace which burns eurofire wood from an eurobag personally the manager. In each number all conveniences, except an eurobathroom and an euroshower (these exclusives - on the ground floor - for all sufferers simultaneously). In each number the euroTV with satellite broadcasting. We liked eurotransfers under the name "There is no access. The signal is coded". These transfers are so popular on Sinevire, that were broadcast simultaneously almost on all channels. But even these interesting transfers have not prevented us to fall asleep after the sated labour tourist day.
Next morning, vigorous and cheerful, all of us have gone on research of Sinevirsky lake. Specially constructed viewing platform helps any to take pleasure in a charm malotronutoj the nature.
Here again has not done without opening. If from a viewing platform to throw in water something (a stone, for example) - in this place thousand, ten thousand direct, and, can - also hundred thousand-small malkov trout. Who happened in Brazil and has lost a foot in struggle against gluttonous piranhas - me will understand - so the trout attacks more terribly!!! Feet pootkusyvat forelkam we, of course, not distances, and here porous chocolate in number of two tiles have been gobbled up"clean (-"is gobbled up"because"eat"at all so).
After feeding karpatskih "piranhas" we have gone on a survey track round lake. Each of us in these picturesque places felt someone from other life. The daddy represented itself "vujkom z polonini" - "that woodcutter", mum - unequivocally participant of a legend of lake Sinevir swung decorative toporikom, SHO, the senior daughter - in the company of friends-students, younger - a mountain lamb who where only is possible falls in karpatskuju a dirt.
On rafts to swim for a while it was not possible, but "dry" porulili all.
Not looking at what to leave it would not be desirable, to get to there was no place and to leave it was necessary. Nobody wished "to See Sinevir and to die" because it was not clear - and who then yet time here will return? … our way laid further to hot sources in the middle of cold and rainy spring.
Ahead there were hot sources in Beregovsky area. Our tourists anticipated "bathing, fire, diving, baldenie and dyshanie" in thermal and not less mineral waters. Guarded only impression of salty lakes Solotvinshchiny. "At our summer residence" our hearts touched nartsisso - sinevirskoj a saturation would not take out one more pool …
All fears have appeared are vain!!!
The source at Kosovo has appeared the equipped place for medical bathing of citizens-internationalists. In two huge bathrooms-pools, despite of a rain, lapped - Ukrainian children, the Russian teenagers, the Hungarian uncles and aunts who communicated with the Ukrainian grandmothers and girls. Such here bathing. Water of colour of a fresh rust, with temperature to "it is hot!" With a smell of a medical mineral at all did not frighten. The younger daughter - the fan of any bathing - dived, somersaulted, lapped, baldela and had fun (dreaming of diving in the severe seas - she the first stage tried to pass on a thermal source). We will tell fairly, even having heard opinion what long to bathe in a source - harmfully, we long and persistently ignored it. By a principle "is hot crude there are no" we bathed on system "such miracle of the nature the harmful cannot be". When feet not "drykalis", hands not "shevolilis", we have decided to come off "a hot miracle" ….delo approached by the evening, and is ahead expensive home by the tomorrow's working day and new "to hunting behind additional cost" …
Here small travel under the motto "also came to an end Where eyes look-1". Oh, also have seen enough!
The road conducted forward through Mukachevo, by the Bruise on Svaljavu and Stry. Having admired at last the beauty-goverloj (the snow cap to us has very much attracted!), all have fallen asleep, except the daddy-driver. Some hours have flown by in meditations about wonderful rest and avto again - on Ternopolshchine! It would be possible to lower road home - have arrived and have arrived, that here? But ….net … … ….ne has managed here again without an extreme!!! On border of the Ternopol and Khmelnitskiy areas us stops "opjatneuzhinavshy" the motorised patrol GIVE-GAI. ATTENTION!!! The READER!!! Two krasnomordyh the ensign (so because the concept "person" provides absolutely other configuration) on the patrol car of GAI with VOLYNSK (Lutsk!!!) numbers on border of Khmelnitskiy and Ternopol areas indirectly wish to "earn" (judging by moaning with the report) in dialogue with the Khmelnitskiy driver (to look a map - a line "Ternopol-Khmelnitskiy and you will understand all!) . From such EXTREME pair of "defenders" even I avto to go refused - was not got. I will not tell as one woman and two girls pushed the 2-2-ton car, and "two" Volynsk "assistants" in 5 metres advised as better to push, wagging with striped staffs as …. In sense, well you have understood in what … ….
I will tell one -
CARPATHIANS ARE NOT COMPARABLE WITH WHAT!!!
THESE ARE PLACES WHERE IT WOULD BE DESIRABLE TO RETURN!!!
THEY ARE PEOPLE WHO SHOULD BE RESPECTED!!!
THESE ARE GIFTS OF THE NATURE BY WHICH IT DOES ONLY BY THE SELECTED WORKS!!!
IT CAN WE AND IS???!!!
That's all. Ahead - "Where eyes look-2" (a trip along border of Ukraine on a full circle), "Where eyes look-3" (search on Dnestr the flooded villages for the further dajv-expedition to these places). But it absolutely other HISTORIES.