Visas should give out on Wednesday on April, 27th («For you all we will make as fast as possible!»), but midday of Friday 29, and I still wander on Peter's centre without passports of our family - they in consulate. Excuses was only 2 («there is no consul» and «there is no Internet»), but everyone personally and by phone I have had time to listen to time on 5.
Having entered into consulate I have not had time to open a mouth as to me have stretched passports with visas and have wished kind road. I left back on street under a drizzling Petersburg rain. I any more did not know, whether we go somewhere. We sat the second day on things. To leave to Romania we should last night. Now I already would like nothing
Romania in the opinion of our compatriots – the country least attractive to travel in all Europe (only to Albania "ours" (inhabitants byvsh. The USSR) go less). A maximum where "we" get out are Black Sea coast in the summer, mounting skiing resorts in the winter, moreover autotravellers on the travel in/from every possible evrop sometimes pass this country transit. Across Romania on the Russian-speaking Internet too it is few reports on travel. I managed to find only A.Meshov's story (the reference to a page more low), some stories on a server «100 roads» (http://www.stodorog.ru./country/stories.asp? id_country=RO), the story on S.Vinskogo's server (http://www.awd.ru/rumynia.htm), moreover very useful resource http://ontheroad.narod.ru/Romania.html where there are useful references on not numerous English-speaking Romanian sites. In this connection beforehand on an Internet the guidebook to Romania and Moldova publishing houses «Lonely Planet» (further – LP) in English which very much has helped us is reserved. Since last year the detailed map of the Romanian roads bought on refuelling close Tyrgu-Njamtsa was saved.
The car for a trip has got out by itself. «Рено19» I have safely sold for 3 days prior to a trip, and «Рено21» has problems with documents; the new car something is not bought in any way (heavy times in business), therefore to go was possible on the only thing the car ready in a way VAZ-2105. In Moscow in firm «Live keys» (in my opinion, the unique firm which is engaged in Romania) I for 50$ has got the voucher for all family (I, the wife and the younger daughter of 11 years). I have refused purchase of the visa – planned to make it in Peter. Has bought a grin-card on avto (14 euros for 15 days – SK Russia) and medical insurances (SK «Russian world» - something nearby 500 rub on all). We have made all family colour photos 3*4 and have handed over them in consulate (on 1ой on the person). Has paid visas (36$ on the adult and 10$ on the child).
With visas 4 days took for a ride. As a result instead of evening of Thursday have left days later with all following consequences of departure on Friday evening – summer residents, stoppers … Moreover as always were formed at the last minute affairs by which it was necessary to do. As a result as the beginning of our travel has been decided to consider start from cafe «At Samsona Vyrina», that on the Kiev line (at turn on Siversky), at 19.55. The broken plans it has been decided to correct directly in road.
About Pskov had a drink coffee. Have refuelled to a full tank in (approximately) 5 km from the Belarus border on refuelling of "Surgut".
On the Belarus border have paid 5$ for daily transit. Green-map prokatila (as well as everywhere further) without problems. The border has occupied 5 minutes (in 2.25 nights). At night I still stopped on hour or so to have a sleep. In RB went, almost observing a high-speed mode – there all so go, despite excellent roads. With a speed 100 on a line for us there were all cars, including the new BMW: us considered as rich Russian sponsors. Few times us stopped for check of documents.
Near Gomel (at 8.00 Moscow – we and lived all road Moscow time) have stopped to have a drink coffee – and were not got. Were more precisely got only having parted forcibly the car. Have gone to Gomel to search for HUNDRED. Have found – it has appeared, that the involving relay has departed. 11$ the relay and 31000 bel.rublej (about 400 Russian) job. However, besides replacement of the relay the electrician has adjusted headlights.
Border Rb-Ukraina there passed almost 2 hours – clear business, holiday day, it is a lot of cars; if not breakage early in the morning we would pass it much faster. Byelorussians at us have carefully checked up the receipt of transit and have selected. On the Belarus party – the huge poster «alcohol Import in RB – 1 litre on the adult. From above – the duty 20 euros for litre». Nearby planted the children who have driven in RB without the insurance. To let in them have let in, and to let out wanted only for 200$. The history ending is unknown.
Gasoline in Ukraine 2,95 grivnas for litre. Is everywhere. Quality normal.
Night has found us on an entrance to Vinnitsa. Have decided to stay the night there. The hotel about station has appeared a full scoop and, according to the advice of local taxi drivers, we have gone to hotel "Энергетик" nearby. For a double from us have asked 140 griven (together with the child). Was even less for 120, but it has not liked me. In hotel we were unique lodgers.
In the morning have wandered across Vinnitsa. On local Maidan nezalezhnosti there was a mayovka, we, having caught sight of red flags and a stopper, were developed and have moved on departure. On departure to us for 20 griven have washed the car on LUKOJLOVSKY refuelling.
Have gone further. On a floor to road to Khmelnitskiy have almost begun to boil: the heater crane has started to proceed. On Easter on May, 1st any station did not work. It was necessary to watch engine temperature all road, and since morning to add litre of the distilled water. And have reached to the house.
On roundabout Khmelnitskiy have eaten in cafe «CHervona Ruta». It is tasty and is not so expensive – 110 griven for a full dinner for three.
In Kamenets-Podolsk at once have driven to the bridge to an old city (only having arrived home, it it was possible to find out its name – Novoplanovsky). A channel of the ancient river Smotrich - the high steep coast carefully marked by climbers under the needs. Falls and the pendant bridge below supplement a picture. Near to the bridge wonderful park.
prolaziv there is more than hour on vicinities, have definitively decided to remain here to spend the night for all good, that is written about this city in an Internet – the truth. It simply tightens. Simply enough to list those who built it (alphabetically, what to offend nobody): Armenians, Jews, Lithuanians, Poles, Russian, Turks, Ukrainians (the five last owned it in different years). Yes, still Frenchmen have constructed a female monastery and a cathedral. (On a hill opposite to local fortetsii not clear design in the form of a pipe sticking out of a stone flat cake and seven stones along the edges and more one in a distance is located. Some name this monument «the Unification of the people» and attach its such significance though there are also other versions).
To solve we have solved, but places in local hotels were not at all. In the second hotel (only under construction (the name was not saved) which, nevertheless, it has been hammered under an outset) I have started to stick to the porter with a question «Well and what to us to do?». It 3 made a helpless gesture minutes, and has then led me to barmenshe. That 15 hung of minutes on phone and, having told to me «From you the chocolate», has given the address.
Have gone - it has appeared very close from hotel. The private house in appearance has not seemed to us, but there was mansion – 5 or 6 big rooms with huge beds, huge a hall and kitchen. But the balcony was a bargaining chip in minihotel: from it the smartest kind on a city in general and on a fortress (fortetsiju) in particular opened. The owner assured, that on the May 8 deputies from Kiev wished to arrive, but at the last minute have refused, therefore to us has carried. Has asked 30 dollars for us a three – the price more than it is real.
Have phoned to Igor Tychinoj, the fan of autotravel, the author of a site http://zzz.kiev.ua/autotours.html on travel across Ukraine and not only, TV presenter and as it has appeared, simply good person and have informed it the address of our residence. It has approached minutes through 10 – and too has stopped in the same minihotel, having agreed with the owner (the place blessing in minihotel was much, and in their other hotels was not at all). With Igor we corresponded in the spring: I specified at it some questions across Ukraine and Romania – and here process devirtualizatsii now has taken place.
All of us together (Igor with the wife (it too almost Oksana - Xenia) and I with the wife and Katerinoj) have gone on walk on a city. Wandered long – children told to us about Kamentse much.
Then have gone to have supper in local small restaurant about the lock. A place excellent, but terrible obsluga hardly has not spoilt evening. Igor's blessing in Ukraine learn very many (if not all) – to our company all the same treated with respect. Evening has ended, as it usually and happens, on kitchen under stories and rasskazki about trips.
In the morning have collected things and have gone to a city. We have gone to a fortress, and Igor with Xenia – to wander on a city. The day before we have converged in thought that is good when ways of travellers are crossed, but joint travel can appear test (and hard!) patience and nerves that was not included at all into plans. Therefore have agreed, that if we will walk on a fortress as much, how much children on a city together we will go further in Hotin. If is not present – we will meet there.
Kamenets-Podolsk fortetsija is a song. Will be in those edges - be not too lazy, call in. On old and new fortresses we wandered more than 2 hours – and would wander more and more, despite a considerable quantity of the people and a beginning rain. To describe repeatedly described I do not like. But take a word – one only a fortress in KP costs what to come back there more and more time.
We have met Igor and Xenia at the same small restaurant where had supper the day before. In the afternoon obsluga was even worse (and yesterday it seemed – worse than ever!), having waited for minutes 20 menus we left and have gone in Hotin, having decided to have dinner somewhere on a line. On road have stopped on the bridge on departure from KP to look on bendzh-dzhamping. It is a pity, that have not made photos: the girl-jumper against very tall vertical walls of a channel of the ancient river – words are powerless.
On road in Hotin we stop to have dinner in cafe "Bear". In hotel on 2 floor we spent the night last year. For a year the live bear living here very much has grown up.
Have called in in Hotin. The rests of a fortress and the lock impress. Before an input a monument-novodel on which year of the basis of these places «1002» is deduced. It is said that long enough here all has been broken enough (though cinema-men and liked these places as nature for shootings) and only by the millenium (and Kuchma's to arrival) all was podrestavrirovano. Restoration jobs proceed and now. Almost 2 hours we wander there, rejoicing to a card hit us instead of back at payment of tickets – at us the accumulator in the camera (photographed in fortetsii in KP much) has sat down.
We are excused with Igor and Xenia though we go still kilometres 20 together – to us on a way …
Turn on border, passing Chernovtsy, we slip. We go through a city. It is few movement. Before border (for 5 km) we refuel to a full tank.
On the Ukrainian border we were one. The minimum of formalities, a luggage carrier did not open. On Romanian – almost the same. Have checked up a grin-card, took 4 dollars of payment for road for a week, have in exchange given out a piece of paper and a sticker. Have glanced in the luggage carrier opened by me. All. Ezzhajte.
On departure from territory of customs a box of ecologists. The barrier on our strip is closed, on vstrechke is opened. Accurately I leave on vstrechku (there anybody) and meal by a box. 3 muzhiks in shape about something talk. Their form something is similar on police, but, having looked subsequently on the Romanian policemen, I can tell definitely – not it. All it something reminds the Ukrainian ecologists approximately 3 summer prescription which strove zakosit under local DAIshnikov. They notice me, but only one of them does gesture (a hand!), probably designating – "Stop". Not, bratan, I know this your trick – I will stop, and you will ask for me money (it we last year passed). I go further. In my opinion at them a shock. One leaves on road and any time looks to us following.
We pass Siret and Granitseshti (names n.p. I will result in Russian transcription – some Romanian letters are not present on the keyboard) and is turned to the right on Arbore. The rubbish becomes expensive at once, all is around closed (by the way, at customs the exchanger too has been closed). We reach to Arbore and minutes 10 we wander round a monastery, looking inside through low zaborchik. The input (through a belltower) is closed. At last I approach and I push an entrance door from myself – and it opens!!! On walls prices on tickets hang, but live people are not present. We 30 we three together wander of minutes on an empty monastic court yard (LP assures, that it is constructed in 1503) and we examine frescos (made through 40 years after construction). The Wind rose in these places is defined very simply – frescos were well saved far not on all building, on degree of their safety to define prevailing a wind simply enough. Is better they were saved about an input, there, where they are covered both a peak, and lateral walls. We with Katerinoj rise on a low belltower and I with the big work constrain an internal impulse – the cords adhered to languages of bells, and ask for hands.
We go further and through 6 kilometres we get in Solku. Here the monastery (1612 of construction) much more also looks not small and cosy, and terrible and unapproachable because of high stone walls which surround it. The Monastery-fortress. Focus with pushing of a door from itself here does not pass. We are limited to 1 photo (camera accumulators are still practically dead) and we go further.
It is a little (metres 800) we come back and it is turned to the right – on Katsiku. Road of rather decent quality, and its easy serpantinitost (about a word has screwed!) at all does not strain.
Kilometres 20 – and we rest against the T-shaped crossroads: our road rests against road Suceava - Gura Hurmoruluj (further GH). Starts to darken.
In an Internet I and did not manage to find out the address of local hotels (except one – 4 stars, apprx. 80 euros for a double), therefore we attentively we look around. And (about a miracle!) through 500 metres after turn to the right (on GH) we see a hotel signboard. We brake.
The left Romanian, naturally, in any language (except Romanian) does not understand, but after explanations gestures, conducts us on 2 floor and shows rooms. One of numbers like anything: two rooms and three beds (one double), but, to put it mildly, it is small. I start to find out lodging for the night cost. To a course there is a handle and a paper. Pour is not present, I try to pay off with small dollars. The mistress follows the boss – such questions are solved only by him.
The boss in English too does not rummage. But, having looked at car numbers, he starts to speak on-ukrainski! Everything, we precisely remain here on a lodging for the night: where we still will find here in the evening on May, 1st almost sober Romanian speaking on a foreign language. For number I cry 20$, 15 more $ I change on lei (it turns out 405 000) – we wish to have supper. Restaurant here, on 1 floor. «Mirchu (we have already met), at you that - a holiday?» - «yes is not present, not a holiday. Easter!»
Last year Romania has seemed to me the country mostly the Catholic. From LP I with surprise have learnt, that orthodox in Romania of 87 %! Though the figure also is obviously overestimated, but actually Catholicism (and protestanstvo) basically are extended in Transylvania on which we and travelled last year.
We put the car in a small court yard. On the ground floor with might and main goes guljanie – there some the cheerful companies, all each other know. We have a seat in a unique silent corner. The owner brings to us the menu and starts it to retell in an Ukrainian language for it is written on the Romanian. Us treat krashenymi with eggs («the Christ has revived» - "has truly revived"), and under the first to us with Oksana bring also on 50 gr local moonshine – palinki. With house soup moves small green perchik (local, showing on it speak - "fierce") which having lain down in soup gives 3 minutes that serious enough sharpness.
At 23.30 we leave to sleep. By midnight the party below comes to an end.
In the morning I wake up hours in 8 and I go to wander on vicinities. Around some small hills, but all passes on them are partitioned off by fences of kitchen gardens, to break through which I do not dare. I come back in otelchik – my ladies have already risen. We drink coffee and we leave aside GH.
Our lodging for the night was quite good, but I worried yesterday absolutely in vain: almost on each house in this small town inscriptions with the lodging for the night offer hang. There are rooms, there are minihotels, there are houses. There are also hotels: about one of them (big and high - 4 *) we turn off to the right towards monastery Humor. I change in local "Rajfajzene" 200€ on 7 120 000 pour. The course lei to rouble since last year has not changed almost: on former 1000 pour are equal to 1 rouble to within five copecks.
In July in Romania currency reform will take place – from local banknotes 4 zero will disappear at once. The design of denominations will not change almost. Besides, most likely money becomes paper – now they are printed on polyethylene. The prices for all in Romania are now specified both in old (ROL), and in new (RON) monetary units.
To a monastery of kilometres 6. We turn to the right and we put the car on a parking. The ticket collector at once runs up to us and hands over a scrap of a paper in cost 15 000 pour. We ask the price of local souvenirs, but anything worthy it is not visible. Sellers strive to type the prices for souvenirs on the calculator or a mobile phone.
In a monastery it is not enough visitors (on parking except our car there was one more, moreover the bus with tourists who basically wandered on souvenir vicinities).
The monastery (1530) is very similar outside on vidennyj us yesterday in Arbore though and it is more than it time in ones and a half. However frescos on him in much bigger degree of safety. Money for an input from us do not take, however and on a belltower to rise do not resolve.
Frescos were well saved and are good itself. In a temple very many speaks about a holiday marked the day before. Internal acoustics shakes.
I rise uphill what to make pictures of a general view of a monastery, but downwards I go down the disappointed: trees at all close a kind. Besides a grass on a slope (which it is looked from below as an English lawn) wet and slippery.
We go back, we drive in GH, there (on unique street) it is turned on the left and metres through 800 – to the right. Still kilometre 4 – and we about monastery Voronets. We put the car not on parking, which on the right (there the sun), and at the left, in a shade of a monastic wall. We notice, that here it is a lot of people more than in Humore, and the market of souvenirs too is more in times (but to buy on him there is still nothing).
Monastery territory we resemble free (and it is free; though any price lists hang, but money nobody takes. In honour prazdika?). Inside, besides an iconostasis and icons, a summary record about the executed restoration jobs (as I understand, on UNESCO money for the monument is recognised by a monument of a cultural heritage of a world scale). When I try to photograph the monastery which has arisen near to me the security guard says some words on Romanian from which stream I catch only "photo" and "cash desk". Having pretended, that I do not understand it (let will teach foreign languages) and I do pair of pictures (they any – very unsuccessful sun) and I leave. For memory we buy in cash desk (it taki is opened) picture postcard Vorontsa.
Probably, it was not necessary to us to go on monasteries – it was necessary to go directly here. In comparison with other monasteries this (and responses speak about him exclusively as about «Blue church of the Eastern Europe») does not look something supernatural – it only one of them. Frescos which look more saved – only result of the best financing of restoration jobs. Thus Arbore looks more natural, Solka – is more unapproachable, Humor it is more successfully located geographically. The doctor, I grow old and I grumble?
By the way, in cash desk Vorontsa 2 interesting maps. One – Romania in borders of 1938, on it Chernovtsy and Hotin appears the Romanian territory. The second – monasteries of Romania. In it are designated more than 250 (I do not remember) monasteries (all with short descriptions more precisely). Unfortunately, only on the Romanian.
We go further. We stop to make an early dinner in roadside cafe. That soup is "CHorba", we have understood yesterday. Here we try to taste «CHorba de burta» - and to us bring soup from a hem. Salatiki, the second, coffee, "Pepsi" (for Katya) - on all turns out 520 000 pour.
In Suceava we are guided on a map from LP. Here the parkway Ipotesku bend, soon should be turn on a citadel. But instead of it – entrance on parking MakDonaldsa. We drive, we stop. We pay attention to map scale – in one centimetre there of metres 100 maximum. The necessary turn we have driven when I only have thought, that we need to turn. Well, we go to walk across Suceava on foot. For 7 minutes of slow walking we reach church Mirautsi is an edge of our map. Church sacred Dmitru (Dmitry) on restoration (it is constructed in 16 century), but I nevertheless do a picture of church of the sacred. We go to a citadel.
If yesterday (my God: yesterday! And it seemed so a long time!) we have not visited in fortetsii KP and not oblazili the Hotinsky lock, I would describe this construction with delight: a fortress big enough and restoration jobs are conducted in it with the maximum respect for olden time (behind an exception of pair concrete couplers). But after Ukrainian this citadel does not shake imagination though the kind on a city from it opens potrjasnyj. On the bridge through a stone ditch Chineses (!), despite people considerable quantity around, remove (or rehearse) scenes to any film.
In Underground shop on departure from Suceava us (unlike the Bulgarian Underground) do not start up – guest maps here are not provided, besides again there are difficulties with dialogue language.
We go on road 2, from it it is turned off on 17С. We stop at a pleasant kind of church at road in n.p. Boroaia. So, «anything especial» – 19 centuries; besides we do not manage to get inside. We go further and under the index it is turned off to one more monastery which it appears the absolute novodelom – year of construction 2003. Looks very solemnly, from open doors of a dining room pray words before a brotherhood meal are audible.
It was expensive 15В last year in the best condition – now more "troechki" I would not put to it. But now I know one more country in which asphalt descends from roads in the spring together with snow.
We pass Tyrgu Njamts and through 15 km it is approached on one of the oldest in Romania to a monastery. It has been based in 14 century as a monastery-fortress, that at once is appreciable by a thickness of perfectly saved walls. Interiors of a monastic cathedral press, for prevailing colour here – black. It not the illumination lack is an old age of an iconostasis (LP assures, that it of the end of 15 centuries), walls and ceilings which (for certain) once shone bright paints, and now look smoked. To be late for a long time inside it is horrible.
From a tower located before a monastic court yard (construction of the end of 18 centuries) where the library once settled down, enterprising Romanians suited the next souvenir market. Have especially pleased on its counters of the book and a copy of icons of publishing house of the Moscow patriarchy.
We taxi back on road and we go towards lake Bekaz. In general that it is called to Varnish Izvorul Monteluj (Mountain spring lake), but LP calls it by name the small town standing on a southern extremity – and we follow its example.
In northern part the river Bystritsa through which will throw the bridge called Devil's runs into lake. And in the tideway of the river there is a Devil's stone. We do pair of photos, and for this purpose what to estimate the sizes the brought water (?) kamenjuki with a huge cross above we with Katerinoj we run to a stone and we become at its foot. Oksana photographs us from road, but us on a photo practically it is not visible – height of a stone of metres 50, a cross at its top much more human growth.
Further we move on road 15 on east coast of lake, slowly searching for a lodging for the night. The first stop at minihotel "Panorama" located on the right on a course (it about 16 km from «Devil's the bridge»). The hotel only is under construction, lodgers practically are not present. There are no also additional beds in numbers – numbers exclusively doubles. The restaurant is empty, not including owner-German tolerably speaking in English (over an input in hotel the Romanian and German flags) and steams the person obslugi from the local. A kind from a viewing platform of hotel on lake "rouble", number price – 800 000 pour. But somehow all looks uncomfortably – and we move further.
By the way this mountain lake is looked extremely. Pure water at full calm in a hollow – and a surface looks unnaturally equal. Any plavsredstva – the season can not? The road from an East side passes along lake (on a West side it is on removal from it). The lack one – to water road approaches all few times, in other places descent is practically impossible because of fencings of kitchen gardens of local residents – the such lake of a contemplate orientation turns out.
Kilometres through 5 one more hotel – "Brand". Here is more cheerful, the people have more, the ground floor occupies restaurant, the hotel takes places on the second and all it is looked cosy enough. A kind from a window of number the smart. Explanations on fingers – and having given 520 000 pour we are occupied in a double with an additional bed. To have supper we are arranged behind a little table in the street – the wonderful kind on lake and mountains on protivopolozhennom to coast (one of tops is covered by snow) from here opens. The supper manages to us in 610 000 pour (with the waitress we speak fingers), but on this money of meal bring so many that we cannot doest (I still have time to taste local vodka – an estimation "four"). The car we leave before an input, a bias there such, that just in case (besides transfer and a bench hammer) we enclose stones under wheels.
For a day we have visited a heap of places, but have driven practically nothing – kilometres 150, the truth practically all on mountains.
Morning as usually, begins that while my ladies sleep – I run all over vicinities, having had time to make some photos. We have breakfast (228 000 pour) and we move further on the south.
In a southern part of lake some hotels and landing stage are located. In hope to find a boat and to drive we go down to water a little and instantly we refuse the invention.
This part of lake – a dustbin. In water any boxes, kartonki, but basically plastic bottles float. In the field-glass it is considered standing kilometres in 2 from coast the pontoons blocking lake in width all its (lake). Other part of lake the cleanest, and here … We and have not understood – whether Romanians drive here all dust from lake (then that owners of hotels and unique landing stage are silent?), whether any current takes down this all here, whether it is brought by any small river from mountains … Have gone further. In than not remarkable (a thunder of a vast object of a dam of local HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION) Bikaze tormoznulis what to buy any sweets-cookies-waters in road.
From Bikaza have gone on road 12С aside to Varnish Roshe (Red lake) along the river Bekaz. The road streamer becomes all more abruptly, and mountains around all above and above (they begin to nestle on road both at the left and on the right).
Here «the Neck of a devil». This piece of road is insignificant – kilometre 2, the narrow streamer of road is twisted between two rocks, height of each of which not less than 30 metres it is no more. The sun which width no more than 8-9 metres does not finish to the bottom this gorge. Near to road the river that reduces and without that rather narrow proezzhuju a part (on entrance a sign limiting length of passing cars – no more than 10 metres). From rocks some streamlets run into the river, forming small, but very nice falls. Air which was 5 minutes ago round us warm enough, considerably grows cold. We find any similarity of a unique platform for a stop and we do some pictures. The lonely car passing nearby, very opportunely – a picture from it allows to estimate scale of a natural construction.
We rise to Varnish Roshu – Red lake. The small lake located highly enough in mountains, looks picturesquely. Spring this year late and the water level is high enough. On the bank of hotel and kafeshki. As soon as we approach to boat station (in hope to hire a boat) the rain begins. We go further.
On pass from Varnish Roshu by georgieni it is noticed at the left the soil path disappearing behind turn. A trip on it in what does not result – metres through 300 we start to stick in a track and I am hardly developed. The pass is picturesque and empty, quality of road quite good.
georgieni - a small town in the centre of Romania, in the distance from tourist tracks and transport highways. While Oksana manages to arrange small shopping in a local little shop on the central area, I have time to walk on streets. Walls of houses are ragged rather – local (the Authorities? The population? Those and others?) try to keep order in this silent place. Houses in the centre basically are constructed in 19 century though is a little novodelov times of socialist Romania. All is silent, peacefully and easy – I have not seen in streets of any person hurrying somewhere.
Only we are going to to get under way in a way – to us on a bicycle the person approaches and asks 10 000 pour for parking on the central area. Its person is so good-natured and is opened, that it would not be desirable to argue at all (especially, he tries to hand over to me the receipt – precisely not the swindler).
Before Merkuriej CHuk (we at first said the name of this city as Merkurija Kiuk, that is incorrect) we call in on refuelling. The gasoline litre costs almost 32 000 pour - however! We refuel on 500 000 cash and we drive to a city. Having ignored turn to Brashov, we call in in the centre and we leave the car on parking in that place where the local foot zone begins.
This small town in the centre of Romania more than is half populated with Hungarians. Around many talk in the Hungarian language, almost all inscriptions are executed in 2 languages (including an inscription on a manhole). The small town looks is much more live, than georgieni. To the right of a foot zone a wonderful monument.
We reach a citadel. Outside it is the usual square house, inside too anything especially interesting: a small collection of the weapon, a small collection of ancient books (one of neighbouring monasteries – the centre of origin of the Romanian publishing). Opposite to a citadel a building of the Palace of Justice interesting (no more). And to the left of a citadel – local prison with all attributes of such institutions: gate, a prickle, relatives under walls, "maljavy". Prisoners, probably, drive on interrogations on foot …
Dinner time – we come into restaurant «Dignity ZHennaro» on local Arbate. The waitress tolerably speaks English (at last), the dinner manages to us in 810 000 pour. Attempt to pay off with a card is unsuccessful – at them something with communication, and we easy give 1 000 000 pour a cache. Passes minutes 10 – the girl to turn round us, but delivery to bear somehow not to hurry up. It is necessary to make a reminder – and after a pause (minutes in 5) it brings 200 000 with the justification «Is not present a trifle». We give it its ten and we leave restaurant.
On parking of money from us to take there is nobody – parkovshchik has already left, at it the working day till 15.00 (!). In general, with working hours in Romania any plague: shops are closed unnaturally early. Theoretically, in that case they should open early (about it there are even inscriptions on doors), but in a reality it occurs seldom. With a public catering the same nonsense: to eat in the morning (hours to 11 local) or late at night it is unreal. It can is simple to us did not carry, and can be connected with Easter and-or May holidays – I do not know.
We move on departure from a city and it is found out wonderful novodel: church with a glass dome. At all at once it is possible to think, as it to photograph.
On 12 road we move to Brashov. On entrance to Sfantu George we get on tank range: asphalt practically is not present, holes are deep and wide (and are filled by water!). Two kilometres it is passed minutes for 15. Through 11 kilometres dvuhrjadnaja it is expensive 12 joins in excellent chetyrehrjadnuju Е574.
With hotels "Crowns" located in one building and "postavarul" there was an incident: signboards on a facade two, and an input only in hotel "Crown". Interrogation of local population has given nothing – local with such surprise looked at the signboards located at level of 2 floors as though saw them for the first time, and about "postavarul" for the first time have heard from me. Well – "Crown". For 2 400 000 us have offered a small double of not so hospitable kind with a "guest" sofa. Europe, a pancake: for twice bolshy and the best number in the centre of Cairo we paid the sum of 5 times less.
But to search something else it would not be desirable, and I have followed things and documents when on an exit from hotel we with Katerinoj were intercepted by any type and have offered a room. Appearance at it was roguish, but in room photos looked decently, to go (as he said) was nearby (minutes 10) – we have decided to risk.
The room in mini-otelchike where we were brought by type, has appeared even better, than on a photo and precisely it is much better, than in "Crown". The mistress (the type simply works for it zazyvaloj) who not bad speaks English, has requested from us 1 000 000 local tughriks. In a court yard parking, in hotel of only 4 numbers (bathrooms in everyone) and small kuhonka with a coffee maker and haljavnym coffee (coffee as all haljavnoe, it it has appeared nikudyshnim). To foot street Republitsii of driving at all 10, and 5 minutes (on foot to go minutes 15). Addresses-passwords of the mistress are that: Str. N. Titulesku nr.21, Carmen Mezei, tel. (0722 847437, (0268 310905. To search for this place it is simple enough – the house is located almost opposite to city branch of police.
We leave on walk on a city – the rain begins. About us the taxi brakes – recent invited goes back on the workplace and takes us to the centre. The taxi counter stops on a mark 20 000 pour: in Peter for the twenty and in the car, probably, would not plant. To wait a rain zaskakivaem in a pizzeria where at the same time and it is had supper. For a supper without any problems I pay off with a map.
On the centre we wander the little more than hour: periodically beginning rain spoils impressions and mood. Bypassing well-known «Black church» we find out, that tomorrow it is closed. We buy meal on morning sandwiches in any local little shop, one of elderly security guards speaks Russian – probably, he/she is the local former engineer once studying in the USSR (speaks well enough). In shop on sale (besides others) vodka "Stalin" and "St.-Petersburg" local flood. Over city centre on a grief illuminated (in style «a la Hollywood») an inscription "Brashov".
In the morning we leave hotel, without thinking twice we leave the car at local municipality and we go on walk on a city, the blessing weather has considerably improved. After an hour of slow walking we with Katerinoj go to a cable car (we wish to rise on mountain Tampa, that towers over a city), and Oksana (passionate neljubitelnitsa similar walks) - simply to wander on the centre.
In general the centre of Brashov is now silent and cosy. All vanity of a city life proceeds somewhere out of the centre: on cobblestone roads it would not be desirable to go quickly.
Tickets for journey in an empty booth of a cable car manage to us in 80 000 money (50+30). The trip hardly has not broken in the absence of delivery at the cashier from 500 000 denominations. In general and the day before, and today Brashov does not make impression of a city in which now it is a lot of tourists. I photograph Katya against seen on the eve of an inscription with the city name. From mountain we go down on foot on a footpath which is twisted by a streamer directly under cables kanatki.
To the car we approach precisely in due time meetings with Oksana. On the left forward wheel avto flaunts painted with a grey paint blokirator. Under the yard keeper the piece of paper grows white. On the nearest shop sits and nervously Oksana smokes.
I go on mail, I buy a card and I call on one of specified in a piece of paper to phone. Conversation is not so long. I state the problem in English: type, blokirator. «And where you stand?» - voprashaet me a tube. «And figs it knows. Somewhere in the centre. Russian car.» - «and! – me the tube knowingly broadcasts. – in 5 minutes we will be».
I come back to the car. Metres in 20 there are 4 policemen and peacefully talk. I approach, I am interested. «It not we – fairly admit those. Are they». Nearby our car already there is old red "Golf" with an inscription "Blocking" (or something in this sort) onboard. "Golf" towards to me leaves 2 young guys.
«It that? (I show on blokirator)» - «Here it is impossible to stand» - «Where a sign?» - «here (on a white rectangle a small sign« the Stop is forbidden »with comments on Romanian and an arrow, specifying draw where)» - «And what to me to do?» - «to pay the penalty» - «you from police?»
Tone of conversation varies at once. «Excuse, instead of you could show documents» - «There are no problems. What?» - all". Here you are, look, only from my hands. The rights, the log, the passport with the visa, a grin-map. Can also checkup?« Boys, and you who? »-« you should pay 650 000 pour the penalty »-« (Once again) you from police? »I get a sheet of paper, in a pointed manner I copy car numbers, I ask to show documents. All is quiet, without nerves. Documents are not shown, one of the arrived calls the chief on the mobile. Oksana gets LP and we begin (with loud comments) to search in him for phone of department of police in Bucharest (these words should be clear without transfer) and the Russian embassy. Confirming to the intentions by us the pair of cellular telephones gets.
«We excuse you, but next time …«. From "Golf" the tool gets, one of guys starts to remove zhelezjaku. That does not wish to release a wheel – something zaelo. Minutes 15 persistent jobs together – and the wheel is still blocked (wished to photograph this situation, but have politely asked it "is not necessary"). «You in the car casually do not have tool?» Ha, children! Yes in what it is "Zhigulis" there is no tool!!!
We are free, and annoyed blokiratorshchiki at once start to hang up the adaptations (which at them the whole luggage carrier and half-salon) on the cars of the local parked nearby. And when we have arrived, and when left - round us there were many cars …
Well and we easy leave a city aside pojany Brashov. On one of viewing platforms we stop what once again to admire the nice small town reddening below by red tile roofs.
To pojany Brashov (PB) kilometres 10 abrupt streamers. Itself PB it at all settlement, and easier fifty hotels. Over our head the top covered with snow and a rope-way thread. Mountain skiers it is not visible.
Unique sight PB – wooden church. Novodel, but made and vpisanyj in surrounding landscape with the big love.
We go to the lock, having paid 340 000 pour for tickets (including on photographing). Tickets at us check twice: on an input in park and in the lock. «The tourist track» on the lock is laid very competently – the lock is bypassed by us everything, thus we have not visited one place twice (and here and there it would be desirable). Except us inside only the Italian group: very much zanjatno to look (and to listen) as one of Italians translates the story of the English-speaking guide to compatriots - the dryish story acquires at once emotional details. By the way, even the guide practically does not say name Drakuly – this legend has already simply bothered all.
We wander on the lock more than hour. Leaving it, we with Katya cannot give up to ourselves in pleasure to get on a small hillock opposite to an input.
On an exit the noteworthy souvenir at last is visible: sounds of local pipes with the resonator from a pumpkin it is viscous and zvuchen. To a heap we buy a bottle of wine "Vampire" (ordinary wine of the Cabernet-sovinon, but the bottle is issued «in style») and any small things Katin to girl-friends.
In the lock in Rashnove it decided not to call in: time already presses, it would be desirable to be in time in Pelesh. Cutting off a corner to a detour of Brashov we move to Sinai. We come there at 16.00 the local. On the bottom collars us start up without problems («will give money for departure»), on the following platform, not stopping, we go under "brick" (it is a pity, is not present the photo – a sign rather conditional), and, at last, we brake on a platform nearby to dealers souvenirs. The local security guard disappoints us: we need to look only an ex-terrier of a palace and the lock, the input is inside already closed, and on external survey there was all an hour (the information in LP speaks absolutely another). At first the security guard tries to force to drive away me the car on a platform more low, but then waves a hand – «Stand here». By the way, on the same platform except us also Ukrainian "Aster".
Hour on survey! Yes here it is necessary to go a minimum of half-day! The residence of the Romanian kings is magnificent (here opposite to a royal castle the royal palace) settles down. From all man-made pjatnikov Romania this makes upon us the greatest impression. Words does not suffice – the photo can will rescue? There is even a thought to remain here on a lodging for the night, but here comprehension of for the first time comes that our holiday is not infinite. By the way – in a palace the hotel though on residing we have not found out the price list really works.
On the bottom collars at departure we give 100 000 pour. Further our way lays through mountains through Piteshti aside Kurtea de Agresh.
Quickly enough we reach to Tyrgovishte. The sun also does not think to have a seat (in Peleshe us watered a rain, and we have only passed through small perevalchik), the rest of light day to lose it is a pity, therefore on entrance to a city we turn on the left where on a hill there is a female monastery of 16 centuries with a wonderful carved iconostasis (the truth, much later). We come back to a city, we refuel on refuelling MOL (the card passes without problems); driving to a city at the first crossroads-ring we leave on the left and we park about a local fortress. The park at its foot not only that it is picturesque – it still couple of days ago accepted participants vserumynskogo competition of designers-gardeners: compositions from bushes stand till now near paths. The input in a fortress is, of course, already closed, but the group of young men safely jumps through a low fencing – and we with Katjuhoj follow them. Long there we are not late – meetings with police all the same are to be avoided. We move further.
That we come nearer to Piteshti we define on a torch of local oil refining factory. To call in in a city-novodel we and so not especially were going to, and looking at the sun gone for horizon at all have decided to go round it on district road.
To spend the night have solved in the first got hotel, but between Piteshti and Kurtea those have not appeared. Though is not present, one all the same was: the two-storeyed private residence of numbers standing in dark park on 15 with huge restaurant – in him us was frightened off by full absence of visitors in this deaf place, that (at become habitual a language barrier) could create problems.
Since morning to come into the Episcopal church located in a city (in its mosaic from Constantinople) it has appeared not probably – the turn from believers lasted metres on 100, at an input the local militia stood about the exposed protections. Church in woods – restoration.
We move aside transfagarash road – LP assures, what is it the most beautiful road to Romania. Huge boards say to us that we move in a correct direction – so I (by naivety) treat the Romanian inscriptions on them. Boards start to come across to a thicket, cars are more rare, vague doubts start to torment me. I stop about 3 military men and the policeman who has appeared nearby, I ask a question in English. Indeed: boards say that the road 7С is closed!!! «Till which o'clock?» - I try to grasp a straw. «Till July» - military men cut off, and the policeman agree nods a head, having made a mournful face.
We are developed, the mood of crew has considerably fallen. The hook of an order of 150 km is made; not clearly, what for we suffered spending the night in Kurtea.
To put it briefly, only after a dinner we appear in Sibiu. The road E81 on which we move to Sibiu from Rymnika Vylsea, is very picturesque, however abounds with waggons and road repairs (though a condition of a cloth and so quite good).
In Sibiu us continue to pursue oblomy: on the central area and adjoining streets the scale repair is started, many streets are closed for pass. A unique light speck – ridiculous houses with eyes near to the central area to well-known the Iron bridge (repairmen have not reached it). In general Sibiu bears a strong resemblance to me to Tallinn on the contrary: there Vyshgorod – here the Bottom city, that small is big (more precisely, here more old part of a city), that is pure and accurate is is deliberately (?) negligent. But the architecture there and there is similar to within trifles.
As a result, having taken a walk hour 2 (and planned more …) we move further. And in Sibiu amazes an abundance of exchangers.
In small Alba Julia we manage zaplutat. The church constructed here in 1922 for wedding of the Romanian king looks rather solidly. Romanians carefully watch the rests of a fortification – the majority of the fragments seen by us consist of a fresh bricklaying. Near to municipality – busts of the best people of a city.
On departure from Alba Julia we refuel by a card on refuelling OMV (blue-green a complex with a white inscription) - following time we will already refuel in Ukraine.
Not reaching Turdy we stop and we stand about a half an hour – the stream of water from mountains after a recent rain has blocked movement on highway. On tracks going in parallel to a highway for the same reason there is a train. Flooding, however.
We go in Kluzh-Napoku, on a way exchanging SMS with Igor Tychinoj – tomorrow we already will be in Ukraine and we will meet it in a valley of narcissuses.
Not reaching Kluzh-Napoki, in darkness and under a rain we stop in camping Faget. «The awning?» - the elderly inspector asks us. The tent at us with itself, but weather has no. «Is not present, a bungalow» (something nearby 600 000 pour). The camping is practically empty – 3 small houses are occupied only. We have supper at local restaurant (600 000), I try the Romanian beer: local "Ursus" to like me more welded in Brashov "CHuka" (though spets on beer from me still that …). Surprisingly, but rain knock on a tile roof of our bungalow it is absolutely not audible.
The car it is left near to the central area at (attention!) parkovochnogo the automatic machine. Hour of parking is estimated in 8000 pour – with pleasure it is pushed in a cut the remained trifle.
In Kluzh-Napoke the historical centre coincides with business, unlike many other things the Romanian cities (Merkurija CHuk, Brashov, Sibiu, Alba Julia). We rejoice, that have got here early Saturday morning – in the afternoon to everyday life here for certain populously, and stoppers (the truth small) are formed on narrow small streets even now. Between small streets in the centre – charming (I would tell – "Odessa") court yard.
With religion in this city full parity: if you see orthodox church – means somewhere nearby should to be necessarily Catholic. In one of new areas where we call in, two churchlets-novodela stand practically side by side.
Having wandered to steam of hours we are rescued from pripustivshego a rain in the car. By station we leave aside Satu Mare.
On a way we stop in Zalyu, we examine pair of interesting cathedrals. Their age is insignificant, but both are looked interestingly, especially pravoslavny a temple with a modern concrete arch (the sun that appears again hides – therefore the arch photo has turned out only in «three quarters»).
In centre Satu Mare us do not start up – a holiday (something of type of "Day of a city»), we park hardly away from the basic road. All centre is given pedestrians, there are some platforms for performances of local actors, in streets tents of dealers are placed by souvenirs. We at last find the original form Romanian (instead of Chinese!) hand bells for a house collection. On pleasures we buy a bell in size with ship ryndu.
From Satu Mare we move aside Bjala Mare on road 19 and through 20 kilometres it is turned off on the left, on road 1С on Hamelu.
11 kilometres of road to border (on road set of holes and cracks) – and we stop in the end of turn from 4 Romanian cars. The frontier guard in a box checks documents. Any ecologists it is not visible, here even there is their box and in general no any traces of their presence.
Foreigners here go not so often – pogranets with interest studies the Russian passports, then minutes 5 searches tamozhennitsu. That leaves to look more likely at us, than on contents of our luggage carrier.
On a neutral strip the call mobile is Igor. «You where?» - «It is passable border in ….« "Djakovitse" - the Ukrainian frontier guard prompts to me. Borders occupy minutes 30 in total.
In 300 metres from border 2 Ukrainian refuellings filled with cars with Romanian numbers: the difference in the price for gasoline reaches 1,5 times. A jack under a wheel (for this purpose what to fill in superfluous litre) use all. We try to exchange remained at us 550 000 pour - left on any nonsenses, type of ecologists, and exchangers both on rumyskoj, and at the Ukrainian customs are closed. Zapravshchik, having communicated to Romanians in the Hungarian language, finds to us "client" - on an exchange we lose griven 10, but it is better, than to lose all («Lei are necessary to nobody» is to me at customs have told). By the way, on Romanian and Ukrainian here nobody talks – in a course Hungarian and Russian.
We refuel, we leave aside Vinogradova. The rubbish, the necessary turn I slip roads, having accepted it for a path to any farm – so it has a terrible state. As a result we appear about the Ukrainian-Hungarian border: from here to Vinogradova the path is much better.
I can not tell, that the valley is white from colours – but children say, that yesterday colours practically were not at all. We leave back aside Husta – children along road try to sell to us thick sheaves of white colours.
It is less, than in an hour we reach to Mukacheva. With lock Palanok to us does not carry – to the local mayor there has arrived the high Kiev visitor, "glade" is covered in the lock at which it is full of protection, inside (naturally) start up nobody. We go to the centre, we walk, we look at avenues of fading Oriental cherries.
We wish to reach today to Lvov (or, at least as it it is possible more close to it), but begun «For health» the road somewhere in the middle (business occurs in darkness) simply comes to an end: numerous holes I road will not name. As a result we stop in svezhepostroennom hotel «the Viking Carpathians». For 250 griven to us offer 3местный number with a breakfast and hour of a sauna in the evening. Igor pays off with a card – transaction passes without problems.
In the morning without problems we reach to Lvov, however the city centre is blocked – any local holiday (by the way, in Lvov it it is a lot of bruschatyh roads of disgusting quality). We go to walk on foot. On one of monuments – display of local nationalism: in a phrase (I result not literally, and on memory) «supervised over groups of Russian, Ukrainians and moldovan, struggling with the Austrian conquerors …» the word of "Russian" is brought carefully down from a granite (similar simple chisel). It would be ridiculous, if was not so sadly.
The city is decorated by flags. They are executed or in Ukrainian "zhovto-blokidnyh", or in the Polish red-white tones. Three-coloured flags we in streets did not see …
Having paid any symbolical money, we rise on a town hall - to look at a city from height. On descent we are caught by the granny – «the divine dandelion», and offers excursion in a room where the mechanism of hours is established. Excursion begins in an Ukrainian language (basically, everything, that our guide clearly speaks), but Igor is politically correct: «At us visitors from Russia, could not speak you in Russian?» - «I in English can!» - the grandma brags.
Hours just beat 12 (we in a room do not hear a uniform sound) and rotating blades create indoors rather strong wind. We thank for excursion, Igor gives to our guide 20 griven – absolutely deservedly.
Below on the area a rank Cossacks in national suits have settled down. One of them, having cleaned a gun 150 summer prescription a ramrod, makes a shot in air: alarm systems of all standing around the area at a town hall of cars start to shout. And behind a corner hloptsy load small pushechku …
Having made a small circle on a city (having passed by «black kamjanitsy» have come into the Italian court yard, in a drugstore-museum, unfortunately, there was a big turn), we go to ours avto: on road I still remove 200 griven from a map in a local cash dispense – to border to us should suffice. To have dinner children offer us on road – in Oleskom the lock.
Having reached there (turn to the lock to slip it is impossible – the publicity board is great) we take seat in a hall for smokers. The interior is good (and the hall for non-smoking looks even better). The menu is issued in an original way – the big book with massive locks in wooden, fitted by a skin, a cover. Feed with soul – over the menu it is necessary to think long, to try it would be desirable only. After a dinner we have time to come into the lock – all expositions are closed, and to wander on galleries it would not be desirable because of a strong cold wind.
We move towards Kiev. In Rovno Igor turn on roundabout has yawned and we have gone through a city. I by naivety thought, that the name Exactly occurs from a word "equal", however the road on a city consists of continuous descents and liftings.
Around Novograd-Volynsk we leave children: we leave on the left, on Korosten-Ovruch and further to the Belarus border. Our words of gratitude – not mere formality: it is interesting to travel with knowing and liking the native country people.
As always absolutely the bulb of level of the index of fuel inopportunely starts to blink. But on this empty road there are no refuellings: neither big, nor small. Somehow we hold out before turn on Korosten where we are filled in for all grivnas which have remained available. By the way, further we saw only pair of refuellings in Ovruche - and again silence to the border and further to Mozyrja.
We leave from customs, expecting to see the Belarus flags, but they are not present. Between Ukrainian and Belarus posts here 18 km! At last we approach On the Belarus border on which passage to be spent even an hour: citizens of Belarus carry home from relatives Ukrainian gorilku, the customs is on guard (no more than 1 litre on the adult), over a platform the abuse rushes. I pay transit, I change roubles of Russia on Belarus – we should refuel in Mozyre. After customs I put Oksana for a wheel and I am attached to sleep.
Oksana awakes me of hour through ones and a half. The "petrol" bulb at it does not die away any more – by Mozyrja it has driven, now we already in 40 km from it. The night, deaf road. We move forward to definitive obsyhanija a petrol tank. I leave with a cord on road and minutes through 30 (very quite good result, considering intensity of movement – it is few of it) we already go behind medical "loaf" to refuelling, to which 6 km. The gasoline price almost same, as in Ukraine, quality quite good.
We move further, we pass Bobruisk. Quality of the Belarus roads good even in this solitude. However, there are not enough refuellings; but it is a lot of places for a stop: with small canopies from a rain, with garbage tanks, with any children's swing. It is very healthy: for all to whom gasoline is not required. I sleep, I any time struggle with a dream, but then I surrender (me dokanyvaet a fog) and, having stopped on one of platforms (to Mogilyov remains kilometres 20), I fall asleep. I wake up hour through 2 (nearby 7.00), I am attached in a tail marshrutochnoj "Gazelles" with a lonely eye of the right dimension.
Over expensive a strong fog. Like settlement – I turn a head on the left, trying to read the name. That the stern of "Gazelle" promptly comes nearer I notice lateral sight. A brake «in a floor», but "Gazelle" has started to brake in the same way earlier and I taki "spent" catch up with it.
I leave the car. That at marshrutochnika stoplights clearly do not work, having looked at the general condition of "Gazelle" - it all is near death for a long time already. The driver who beats a fair tremor after drunk the day before, rejoices as the child: moskal, it should have money. Declaring the price for a damage (200$) it starts something to mould about a new bumper which on IT will be looked as a saddle on a cow. The local militia does not please me: all of them are thrown on protection of meetings in honour of May, 9th, ask earlier 12.00 not to wait (time, I will remind, about 7 Moscow, i.e. 6 local). At me the vital bodies avto are not hurt (losses: a wing, a cowl, the right headlight). Till 12 o'clock this bastard will sober up (and can also "stops" will repair), and a maximum, on what I can count is "obojudka" (and that hardly). After the short auction I give to it of 2000 sound Russian roubles, I receive the receipt on absence of claims (on a paper not letters, and «dancing little men») and we go further. On mood I do not make comments.
To the border of militia on road really it is not visible. At monuments veterans and schoolboys in red ties with drums and banners hold a meeting.
On the Belarus party from me again take away a transit paper, we for a moment look OSAGO. My appearance interests nobody. After border we refuel and it is had breakfast.
Not reaching Opochki on an empty line the sharp clap is my left back wheel leaves «on a shot». While I change it, I try to think, that today to us did not occur yet and that to expect still. After Opochki it is found out, that to us still "did not occur" - GAI OFFICERS. If Byelorussians protect celebratory actions these sit on bushes (in white shirts!). Have stopped twice, losses – 150 rbl.
The worst piece of all road still Luga and vicinities. The stream of cars in a city is insignificant (the president the superfluous day off) has given to the people, and about 19 hours we pass a GAI post on Pulkovsky highway.
To Romania necessarily we will go still – it would be desirable to get in a palace and lock Pelesh and on transfagarash road, in Tyrgu Muresh and Bystritsu. It is a lot of impressions of the country, from them negative – it is not enough (they concern, basically, to weather during our travel, moreover to brashovskim blokiratorshchikam). All biases about the poor half-starved country – a vestige of Soviet times. Can once and was, but now in cities it is less than beggars, than in Peter, and accurate rural small houses under red tile roofs call envy. Cities are less accurate, but they too start to come to an acceptable kind (and Brashov and Sinai already «are ready to the use»). The meal while is cheap, the habitation for comprehensible money too can be found everywhere. Gasoline though and is more expensive, than at us, but is cheaper than the European. It is not less ambassador of this trip it would be desirable to return and to Ukraine. Crimea – that is healthy, but fortresses and locks of Southern and Western Ukraine are not worse at all than natural monuments of "an all-Union health resort».
It is necessary to solve only our Russian problems – for example, to repair road about Luga. Moreover to find time for a trip.
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