Galichina – the nature and locks

Elena Kondratenko
March, 2007

Kiev – Shidnitsa – Tustan – Sambir – Kulchitsy – Drogobych - Village Stare – Svirzh – Plisnesk - Kiev

07-11/03/2007

1500 km

Shevrole-Aveo hechbek

We choose road better, places more deafly, vodichku is purer. Have approximately outlined a route – we go to Lvov (all the same the healthy alternative is not present for hit to Carpathians), and there, depending on weather and mood – in Shidnitsu (mineral water plus billiards) or the Glade (still we will add pool). Certainly, we plan also the cultural program – locks, museums, concerts (whenever possible). We concern conservative motorists and we preach a principle "more haste less speed". Usually, leaving office on Poznyaks after job, by the night had time to reach only to motel in Goshche. But this time could get out before (all the same holiday day), two hours left on a Zhitomir line and have stayed the night on Rovno district in motel "Sofia" with perfect small restaurant. In Strye have turned on Drogobych, further under indexes on Shidnitsu through Truskavets and Borislav. Truskavetsky skyscrapers have guarded, but Borislav's gradually passing in a mountain streamer the narrow small streets, have approached to the nature. It is good, that snow has already thawn, and that hard would be necessary to ours SHevriku.

Shidnitsa

We never reserve in advance hotels – the risk element involves us. Having studied possible places of a lodging for the night with decent conditions, usually we choose two-three, we try to arrive to a new place before dark to reserve choice possibility. Having driven in Shidnitsu and not having found out any indexes, have continued movement in a direct direction and as it has appeared from the surprised answer of passing local residents, have got to the next village. It was necessary to return back before turn to the right. Along the street Shevchenkos have approached to «Ignatyev's Country house», this name in purely Ukrainian environment strangely enough looked. The friendly security guard has called by phone of the manager, which vein nearby (and there was a day on March, 8th). To our happiness, on a country house there were free apartments. After the fascinating story pani Irinas about delights of vicinities make decision in Zakarpate not to go, remain here on two nights, on Friday to visit Tustan, and in the morning on Saturday to call in in Sambir on an organ music concert. To drink naftusju went hardly further kilometre on andropovsky a source (chinks №25 and №26) - perfect physical exercise before and after meal.

Above a source the horizontal platform used by local residents for game in football. And in far 80 every morning the military helicopter here had a seat. Will not believe, water transported on military airdrome, and then on a fighter to Moscow! Has not helped …

Tustan

Enjoyed silence and a fog, played billiards. The rain has not prevented us to visit village Urich (an accent on the second syllable – village at the river) and fortress Tustan. I do not know, what quality road from a line Kiev-Chop, but from Shidnitsy to drive it was possible – after entrance from Borislav we go down in the centre of village and it is turned on the left under the index on sanatorium «Zeleny bir» and after a snow-white statue of the Mother of god we keep a left-hand side to the village Urich. We rest against church, further all is simple – on the left under the index in reserve.

Have heard to excursion in a museum located below at church, and – «on object» (http://tustan.com.ua). Saw many mountains, fortresses and locks. But here we were expected by all conceivable pleasures – a spring, a falls, picturesque rocks, open spaces and mountains, mountains, mountains … Skolevsky beskidy with top 1268м - mountain Parashkoj.

Divine – here that reminds meteors-rocks Tustan. Only all is lived in Greece and is built up. And here wildlife.

Sambir

In the morning on March, 10th after a dense breakfast in a dining room on a country house we head on Sambir. We pass in places Kamenjara, from a line we notice the house-museum in Naguevichah (we will necessarily call in next time!), till 11.00 it is necessary to find St. Konstantin's church 17в.

Saturday day the life in small Sambire boils – after small "toffee" in city centre hardly we find a parking lot near to an operating church of Cutting off of head John Krestitelja 16в. But the concert will be not here. To find a required church teacher of musical school casually met in the street in which conducting there is a concert hall helps.

The bus with having a rest of Truskavets was late, and the concert of a violin with body has begun with half-hour delay. Prior to the beginning of action we have time to consider multi-coloured stained-glass windows, busts of the composers established on walls. The arches over body proceed - the gain from concerts obviously does not suffice on repair.

Having charmed hearing classical music, we leave on ratushnuju the area where requiem near monument Tarasu Shevchenko has just ended.

Kulchitsy

On road from Sambira in Drogobych the village Kulchitsy – the native land of hetman Sagajdachnogo lays. In the centre below church the pig-iron fencing bordering a majestic pedestal with the horseman (it reminds something …, ah-yes begins! - monument SHCHorsu in parkway Shevchenko in Kiev). In a rural museum to us have shown much less grandiose monument, but in days of the Union to establish it have not resolved.

The Kulchitsky, Turkish coffee which has brought to Europe comes from these places also the sir.

Drogobych

In search of a parking lot it is approached on St. Varfolomey-apostle church and a defensive tower 14в., located in well-groomed park. Perhaps, we in Scandinavia? - As such majestic simplicity blows from ancient constructions. On a wall of a church we pay attention on two memorial plates to Adam Mickiewicz – in honour of the 100 anniversary and the 200 anniversary from the date of a birth. From a church by a monument to Jury Drogobychu we go down on the square area with city council, we go on the left – and again grandiose constructions of a monastery and university confirm, that we in Europe.

Architecture architecture, and decent cafe in Drogobyche to us has not got. We have a seat in SHevrik – on 17 km of a line Lvov-Chop is decent motel, there we will have supper and we will stay the night.

Village Stare

Morning of last day of our travel has met the soft sun but while we zavtrali in motel, the line was shrouded by a dense fog. There's nothing to be done – time of risky trailering – quality of photos leaves much to be desired.

Old Village – village of contrasts. The lock 16в. - a source gratuitous stojmateriala, a dump place in direct and figurative sense. Nearby a brand new building of railway station. The sin to think, but the lock absolutely is better would disassemble. Buttresses hardly keep walls which loosen cargo trains and wash away vernal floods. It is difficult to believe, that this monument of architecture is protected by the state – even the memorable tablet have cleaned.

Svirzh

Per 60-years the Svirzhsky lock 15в. Has passed in conducting the Lvov regional Union of architects. And it is 22,2 hectares of the earth with two ponds. When by 2004 architects have restored the lock for 80 percent, money has unexpectedly ended.

The park is protected from unbidden visitors – entrance gate are closed on a padlock. We leave SHevrik near to parked at a fence legkovushkoj and we enter on territory (more correctly, vlazim, through "remanhole" from the metal pipe, a partitioning off aperture for a gate at level of the lifted foot). The pipe is polished to shine titochkami, coming back in village on a park footpath from divine service. Judging by responses in an Internet, the present security guard of the lock does not indulge tourists – rare lucky persons get inside. To tell the truth, we also did not try. On the concrete bridge have approached to internal collars, have glanced in a court yard and have not seen life signs. But in park territory have found out the numerous traces of "civilisation" left grateful descendants of noble owners.

The griffin (orelolev-keeper) on a lock facade, possibly, has inspired the founder of the sculpture with the same name at foot Tepsenja in Koktebel. Where griffins, on Galichina or on Karadage all the same were found, the history holds back.

Zamkovyj a church 16в. Has been passed orthodox church for quite explainable reasons. But what for was to attach a massive dome, breaking architectural integrity?! Unfortunately, such destiny is prepared to many cult constructions (we will recollect charming kostelchik in fortress Medzhibozh, for example). It is interesting, that the Lvov architects who have transformed svirzhsky the lock in a rest house think of new shape of a church. To tell the truth, to photograph this "masterpiece" of eclecticism at first it would not be desirable. On a return way nevertheless it was possible to make a shot when the wonderful dome was blocked by a high tree.

Hearings go, that one high-ranking official wishes to take the lock in long-term rent. It is resisted by the Lvov gallery of arts which is going to together with the Union of architects to create on the basis of the lock the European creative centre with a conference hall, hotel on 40 numbers and restaurant. We Will look, who will win.

Plisnesk

From Svirzha through peremyshljany we go on Zolochev, and therefrom on Pidgirtsy. It is the most picturesque road on Galichina (indexes are not present, through centre Zolocheva it is necessary to move on other coast of the river). We pass some villages, and it is turned on the left to Greco-catholic vasilianskomu to a female monastery. Here in 1861 for the first time on the West Ukrainian earths have served requiem on Tarasu (in memory of it on a temple wall 18в. The marble board) is established. On one of walls we notice a sundial. That we could verify time, the sun looks out because of clouds.

Near to monastery cases there is an eternal sculpture, invariable attribute of the Soviet sanatoria, – a she-bear with three bear cubs (who was in Gurzuf, me will understand). For the first time we see its whitewashed variant.

We are reserved by sacred water from a spring, and in a way. On these picturesque hills in 12 century also there was an annalistic city of Plisnesk. We go by the Podgoretsky lock, here already happened time and again, we will wait for restoration end. Again we enjoy a landscape, and we go down on a line Lvov-Kiev. On 372 km it is had dinner in cool cafe, - and home without stops.