Morning frowned, it seemed at any moment the strong cold rain will begin.... To go or not to go? Here such question tortured since morning of four kievljanok which for 2 weeks before, have agreed to admire the Hem and to fix virtual acquaintance once again...
So, the die is cast. Resolute ladies, having armed with umbrellas and warm odezhkoj, from the different parties of Kiev go on a meeting. Olja with Oboloni, Masha with Darnitsy, Larissa with Solomenki, Light from a summer residence on Osokorkah!
And the meeting place far is not casual! Ancient street Horevaja! And nearby the well-known Counterassembly area, all known ZHitny the market. It is one of Hem alphas! Having met practically simultaneously (I was late for pair minutes), we begin with survey of a complex of Piously-Voznesensky Florovsky of a female monastery.
History. Florovsky a monastery existed to a devastation of Kiev Mengli-Gireem (1482). Under documents was known since 1566 In 1711 at will of Emperor Peter I to Florovsky the Voznesensky female monastery which was opposite to the St. gate Laurels (nowadays on this place the former arsenal Kievo-Pecherskoj of a fortress) is attached. The Voznesensky cathedral is consecrated in 1732 Other temples (Voskresensky, Kazan, trapeznyj Tikhvin and kladbishchensky Piously-Troitsk), private cases, etc. buildings are arranged in XIX century (after a devastating fire of 1811). Till 1920th years in a monastery there was wonder-working Rudensky icon Bozhiej of Mother.
In 1929 the monastery has been closed. In 1934 the temple of the St. Trinity on a monastic cemetery has been destroyed. In 1942 the monastery has opened and more was not closed. But in 1960 have been selected the Kazan temple (it is reconstructed under sewing shop), Voskresensky and trapeznyj temples (for a workshop on restoration of icons of association Ukrrestavratsija) and many private cases.
Now in a monastery all divine services pass in the Voznesensky cathedral. All temples (except destroyed Piously-Troitsk) are returned a monastery. The Kazan temple is restored. As well as in days of old, Florovsky a monastery is svoekoshtnym (neobshchezhitelnym).
Further, on one more of ancient persons of Kiev Pritissko-Nikolsky (the name as a song!), we left on the Counterassembly area and have admired the restored Cathedral of the Assumption of Virgin Pirogoshchi (and it has been constructed in 12м a century!) History. The most ancient building of the mentioned temple which has lived very uneasy century, was erected in 1131-1136. The impudent invention (and it there was rather expensive action) was carried out with the assistance of son Vladimir Monomaha — Mstislava. Building has come to the end later, at reigning of one more son of the grand duke — JAropolka. The church of the Assumption of the Virgin has strongly suffered during attack of khan Mengli-Gireja in 1482. Later the Podolsk Uspensky church, in years when grasped uniatami Sofia could not carry out function of the main orthodox temple of Kiev, became, as a matter of fact, a city cathedral. In 1613-1614 fairly decayed church has undergone to reorganisation which was carried out by Italian architect Sebastiano Brachi. The architect has given it Renaissance forms, has added an architectural complex of the basic building at once with four domes. Ivan Grigorovich-lordly efforts in 1770 the construction has got lines of the Ukrainian baroque, that, under the certificate of contemporaries, favourably allocated it among colleagues. In the beginning of XIX century the Kiev city architect Igor Ivanovich Melensky has replaced five domes of a temple with one, than has entered its architecture in the concept of classicism professed by it. Probably, on such architectural decision has induced the architect and that after one of devastating fires when even plavilis bells, means for laborious and expensive reconstruction were not. It was necessary to be content with the small. In 1835, it is equal hundred years prior to tragical destruction of church, instead of the disassembled wooden belltower there was attached to the basic volume of a building a stone. Forty years owing to procorfs of a ground of a wall have cracked later. Has rescued a construction timely intervention of officials of Tserkovno-building presence at Provincial management and, accordingly, allocation of considerable means for "debugging".
Fires disturbed time and again a temple. It burnt in 1611 (said, that Jesuits have arranged an arson), in the spring of 1718, in 1808 and, naturally, during the well-known fire of 1811. As the construction was stone, fire could not destroy it to the base that allowed to restore the lost quickly. Even after a terrible June fire of 1811 when has practically burnt out all Hem (a dense smoke reached Nezhin), and buildings of City council and Bogorodichnoj churches have suffered so, that there were only stone walls, kievljane resolutely were accepted to restoration of the spiritual relic, endowing on sacred business by time last copper coins.
Event of nation-wide importance is connected with church of Virgin Pirogoshchej also. In January, 1654 to an oath of allegiance to Russian tsar Podolsk petty bourgeoises, the city Cossacks and the numerous visitors who have arrived on celebrations here were led. It once again proves to be true, that long years the temple remained the main stronghold of Orthodoxy of "Mother of cities of Russian".
Some lines about temple charities. In different years the money the Podolsk church of the Assumption of the Virgin contained an orphanage, hospital for deprived (a word "poor" not to offend made destitute, it was forbidden to use), parish school... There was a period when in its walls has found a time haven city archive.
Among relics of Virgin Pirogoshchej of believers drew brought the image of the Mother of god which as scientists believed, was before in a local tower-pirgose there is no time from Constantinople. In a Greek way the adjective "pirgotiss" means "tower". Probably, from this word with reference to church the word "Pirogoshchaja" also has got accustomed.
Exists, the truth, and opinion, that to a name Podolsk Uspensky church has received a prefix from a certain mythical merchant by name of Pirogost. Anyway, but in a life of a trading and craft Hem the church of the Assumption of Virgin Pirogoshchej played a considerable role. It is considered, what exactly it during the most ancient time united prosperous posadsky ljud this part of a city for was on the central area of a Kievo-hem, in a place where ways-roads of a prosperous part of the population converged. Researchers believe, that Pirogoshchaja was church of the merchants trading in grain. According to one of Versatile persons of the hetman of Samoylovich, accepted in 1672, churches of the Virgin on the Hem "was permitted to take a measure or dengu for a measure of grain bread which was delivered for sale in the local market". Very old passage of Old Russian annals is connected With a name of this church also: " Igor on Borichevu, to svjatej to Virgin Pirogoshchej "goes. For certain, the prince who is coming back from polovetskogo of a captivity, not casually went to this temple. Perhaps, it made it in gratitude for participation of a rich merchant layer of a then Kiev society in business of the repayment from bondage of the prince and its team... Adherents of olden time, having ventured relic restoration, have solved, having spat that to XX-th century Pirogoshchaja was a component of the architectural ensemble which has developed in classical style of the central part of the Hem to restore it in Old Russian style, leaning only on given measurements of the initial bases. Pavilion erection for who saw, and the main thing became result also, has embodied for us guilty how the church during that far time looked?
There was in history of church of the Assumption of Virgin Pirogoshchej and at all a black page. In 1933 when daily in streets of Kiev died of hunger of thousand the persons who have weakened from chronic undereating of people of service kommunhoza (gorochistki (!) transferred to a gloomy and crude temple where poor creatures soon perished. Further their bodies secretly took out at night and dumped in anonymous communal graves. Probably, this circumstance has affected, that soon (in 1935) to disassemble a temple and to erase it from the person of our distressful city, after all, as a matter of fact, even the formal occasion to destruction of this cult object (like area reconstruction) was not. The temple not "stirred to movement of trams", did not stand on a way of the major governmental roads, did not spend anti-Soviet propagation, etc.
Built up not so long ago, but on "predanjam olden time deep", the church of the Assumption of Virgin Pirogoshchej on the Hem is one of dominants of the Counterassembly area and streets adjoining to it. It is However, looked "on tl і" classicism gostinogo of a court yard recreated in style, ljubovno the restored Counterassembly house and other objects of an epoch of industrial capitalism "not so". More likely, reminds a such fake something.
Our way lay further but not to assimilate to all tourists, we have gone on our purpose-Andreevsky descent by another by! Namely, on one more historical street Pokrovsk where also have seen interesting church structures. On the one hand Nikolay Dobrogo's Church (unfortunately closed), and on the other hand Pokrovsk church. About them I will not tell, as ahead our overall objective!
Having risen on steps on Borichev a current (and having discussed beauty almost each small house which we of have seen thee, I would like to live here... Either here... Or here!!!) we left on Andreevsky descent! About him it is much told. About him know far outside of Kiev.
All visitors necessarily aspire to visit on him and will buy for memory of Kiev though any souvenir! And it is final, here it to make both easily and difficultly simultaneously! Easily - because a choice huge! Difficult-because at once can that is pleasant much!) here it is possible to find and pictures, and vyshivanki, both small antikvariant, and clay products, and jeweller.....
Andreevsky descent - one of the most ancient Kiev streets. In days of the Kiev Russia it was the shortest way from the Top city to the Hem, the Bottom city where there lived handicraftsmen and merchants. This abrupt twisting street - a traditional place of carrying out of concerts, festivals of arts, Days of Kiev.
Almost each house of Andreevsky descent is a History. In the house № 13 on Andreevsky descent the House-museum of the known Russian writer Michael Bulgakov living here in 1906-16 and 1918-19 Nearby, in № 15-house of interesting architecture known among kievljan as "Richard's Lock" (1902) is located. Now this building stylised under an ancient castle, will be converted under hotel by one Ukrainian-American firm. To the right of "Richard's Lock" abrupt iron steps will deduce you to a viewing platform, whence it is perfectly visible the Hem, Dnepr and bridges through it, and also is new buildings of the left coast.
And at last!!!!!!!!
The Andreevsky church costs the graceful outlines accurately being allocated against the is gentle-blue sky, in the beginning of Andreevsky descent. Built in 1754 under the project of Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli, this temple is one of few old Kiev structures which have reached us in a primordial form. It seems, as if it soars in air. It is constructed on a place where, under the legend, has erected a cross apostle Igor who preached in the Kiev Russia. The church has been put in pawn in 1744 in commemoration of arrival to Kiev empresses Elizabeth Petrovny. Round a cathedral the picturesque terrace lasts. Tell, that vicinities of Andreevsky church were a favourite place of walks of N.V.Gogol.
And where to see the Hem entirely? Certainly from a survey platform near the Historical museum! Behind a museum there is a viewing avenue, the panorama grasping spirit on the Kiev Bottom city – the Hem whence opens.
On the hill, to be exact on a high mountain Detinke, there was the church of the Virgin known also as desjatinnaja (from here and the name of street nearby passing - desjatinnaja) earlier. The church stood once in the end of this short street and was the first stone church of the Kiev Russia. Under the legend, prince Vladimir Svjatoslavich has allocated for construction and the church maintenance the one tenth part of the incomes. It is destroyed during invasion Batyja in 1240 Nowadays from it the base rests have escaped only. In the same place it is possible to see some stones-all that remains from Knjazhego towers of those times! Modestly people lived.... Hectares were not necessary to them!))))
Ufffffffffff!
We nozhenki have got tired, we glazonki have got tired! And where to have a bite and a rest? We for ourselves have chosen restaurant «For two hares». At once I will note-place for tourists! On an input you will be met by the high door-keeper in the general form and will politely open a door! However, do not count on the same courtesy on an exit!)))).
We were met by the manager and has spent on in advance reserved places in the Merchant hall (there is still a Hunting hall with benches). To us have helped to remove outer clothing (besides after calculation put on!). The dishes chosen by us look in picture story Oli! All was very tasty, coffee one of the best, that I tried! But besides without a tar spoon has not managed! The waiter asked all time-is tasty? To you to like? And when has brought the bill etak milenko has declared, that service is not switched on in the bill and if it was pleasant to you, please..... At us likely a shock till now!
After restaurant, we have gone back on Andreevsky descent downwards. However, not to repeat on the descent middle at the left there is a small small street Frolovsky, here on it we lenivenko, valjazhnenko and have gone down on the Counterassembly area.
On the area at the left we have bypassed gostinyj a court yard where some shops and cafe are now located. It is constructed in 1809 under the project of architect A.I.Ruska. Near to it there is a fountain "Samson", built in 1749 the well-known Ukrainian architect I.G.Grigorovichem-lordly. Many legends are connected with this fountain. According to one of them - the one who will get drunk "samsonovoj waters", it is necessary to live in Kiev! Sideways on the area there is a Counterassembly house which has named all area. It has been constructed in 1817 as a place for the conclusion of commercial transactions. In the same place in square there is a monument to the Frying pan, and before it of the case of the former Kiev academy, the first higher school in Ukraine and in all Eastern Europe. Based in 1632 under the arches of nowadays not existing Brotherly monastery, in the beginning it was called Kievo-Mogiljanskaja board as an outstanding role in its basis the Kiev archimandrite has played, and then metropolitan Peter Mogila. Then, in 1701 Peter I has transformed board to academy which soon became one of the largest and prestigious higher educational institutions in all slavic world. In the Kiev academy, among many other things outstanding scientists, culture and a policy, studied M.Lomonosov, G.Skovoroda, I.Grigorovich-lordly, A.Miloradovich. Now in an academy building there is not less prestigious university "Kievo-Mogiljanskaja academy".
And at last, we come back to street Horevuju (where lonely I was waited by the car). Directly on crossing of this street with street Konstantinovsky there is a white two-storeyed house. In this private residence constructed in 17 century, in 1706-07 of tsar Peter I stopped. The house is closed for visitors.
We approach to the car, we assort things.... Kisses, slezki... And... Alas, but we part further.... Ahead the new meetings, new surprising places of our beautiful and liked city!