The story is written by me and my spouse, for what to it thanks, therefore verbs can change a sort with man's on female J
The short facts:
avto: Opel Astra with run of 1.700 km
The reservation: exclusively through interenet
Spending the night: All distances were raschitany on 400-500 km of a way to day
Credit cards: Visa (Raiffeisen), Maestro (Privatbank)
Mob. Communication: UMC (roaming trouble-free) Kyivstar (problems with sms)
2 cameras, the laptop.
Preparation for this trip has been begun since May. The reservation of hotels, a route lay-out, insurance, reception of visas and, the most difficult – expectation of day of departure. So, this day has come. More correctly night. Departure from Kiev exactly at midnight, a disk of liked group «Laid Back», the good car, a full tank of gasoline. Belarus has met a strong rain and long turn. 40-minute bustle on huge customs, filling to anybody of unnecessary pieces of paper and we on the Belarus party. How here to go – we already we know, therefore speed strictly 90. On the sly we slip Gomel, Mogilyov, Vitebsk. All is closer and closer to Russian border. With the same usages and time we pass Russian cordon.
The place of the first stop – Pskov all is already closer and closer. Somewhere after a dinner the tired, hungry we become hollow in hotel "Transit" reserved in advance on the Internet. On our general surprise there was very decent hotel with cosy and spacious numbers. After a supper and spending the night we were waited by last piece of the former CIS – road on the Estonian customs on (for some reason) paid road in Izborsk.
Having passed and this customs, we at last in Estonia. One year ago we already came to Estonia. Here very much it was pleasant to us. Therefore such route also has been developed on a way to Finland. Tickets for the ferry in a luggage carrier. Investigation on the terminal to learn – in how much we should be in port and all – at us is practically all the day to wander on old small streets of Tallinn. Very beautiful city, very pure. Excellent kinds and second time successively we do not get to a cathedral St. Brigitty because of festival carrying out. But were in plenty developed on quay of the Baltic sea. Cloudy but not rainy weather had to slow calming walk. Has come to test time a support. Here is that posnimat. Quay, a large quantity of the stones towering over the sea because of outflow. On stones seagulls and cormorants have peacefully a rest. Hardly further them dissect a sea wave expensive enough yachts and sailing vessels. Absolutely on horizon already plough ferries and walking liners. In general – it is beautiful. The sun has not sat down yet – bystrenko we come back in an old city to a viewing platform to make pair of photos of the Tallinn roofs against the Baltic sea. With feeling, that all is removed, that was possible, we come back in our hotel Hermes, tomorrow very early to rise, in port it is necessary to be in 6 mornings.
The first impressions have begun with the Tallinn port where we have arrived for an hour before planting to our ferry Tallinn-Helsinki. The Tallinn port – as the separate world where with neprivychki you feel a grain of sand against a life boiling in him. The huge snow-white ships with the Finnish, Swedish, Estonian flags, foreigners scurrying about on huge waiting rooms with suitcases, the cafes shone by a board with the list of next flights – all it makes strange impression – on the one hand grasps spirit, with the friend to the party to become melancholy that we behind a board of this holiday of a life. In port we have faced for the first time the fact of full misunderstanding of the personnel of Russian – communicated in English.
The system of planting to the ferry is simple enough – in the beginning approach on the booking control where to us have exchanged the Internet reservation for actually tickets, our data in the computer, car number have written down, and also have given out a pink piece of paper with number of flight and a floor which followed fasten on a rear-view mirror. Then all amicable turn have stolen up to the customs control which for all present was simple formality except us – our car have driven away aside not to stir the rest, and Estonians long enough and tiresomely stamped our passports. I with melancholy observed all this time, how before us Italians, Finns, Estonians, Germans – all those who in Europe are considered as people of the first grade pass. However, we to it were ready, so I am more indifferent considered, how much further we will appear in turn. Have appeared enough at the tail-end, though and not the last J
Exactly 30 minutes prior to departure our long tape from cars has moved-have resolved entrance on the ferry. The show certainly impresses for the first time – huge gate behind which garage for cars in two floors, us have sent on bottom, half on the second floor. All is enough organizovanno, in the ship there were workers of the company and supervised, where to whom to call in. Having parked, we have risen upwards in passenger halls which was on our ferry three – two bottom and one top. We have located on the top. Bonus that there there was a transparent glass opposite to branch of captains where it was possible to be stuck without ceremony by a nose to glass was top and to observe, how operate such large object, and it was officially authorised and except us there there was still a small crowd italjashek J Concrete places with tickets by the ship was not, it was possible to occupy any of three halls, the people migrated on the ferry with coffee and cameras all time of a way, more oblomistye and travelling not first time were imposed with meal on the bottom halls or slept. On the ferry there was also a cafe from coffee on 1,40 euros then seemed to us expensive, in process of travel across Finland we perceived already such price normally J
In one and a half hour we have arrived to port of Helsinki where we have got out by the same principle as called in on the ferry in Tallinn – in the beginning have amicably left together with everything, then have passed passport control where unlike Estonians to us have put down entrance in shengen for 2 minutes, not examining neither the car, nor passengers, presence of money where we go. Vobshem, Finns have appeared oblomistami in the best sense of this word.
And here we in Finland. Complexity of our situation consisted that the port is in city centre so we to a descent have been compelled to join unfamiliar conditions. Fortunately, the Finnish traffic signs have appeared an exact copy European and we have left Helsinki, only slightly popotev J
That was evident at once is with what ease Finns are scattered by speeds on roads – signs in 100 and 120 flashed practically all time, even on enough abrupt turns and congresses, in difference from Estonia or we will tell Poland where constants 80, 60, 90 very much tyre. Thanks to it we have dashing rushed off aside Naantali where at us Mummi-park J visiting has been planned That was evident in second time – a considerable quantity of platforms for rest on lines with the small cafes, which Finns name Kioski Grille. On one of such platforms we had a bite and have taken breath.
Naantali - small town small and toy. There is it on the seacoast which coastal line all is covered by small islets. On one of such islets there is a Mummi-house. On island we have gone, but have glanced in the Mummi-shop, the Mummi-museum and have walked on very picturesque quay with snow-white yachts and set of small small restaurants. Finns do not stint the free fact-finding literature – brochures about Naantali, about the Mummi-house, about Finland which we certainly and have typed everywhere lay.
Opening the third for us – system of the network markets ABC scattered on all country at entrances in cities. In these markets it is possible to have a bite perfectly on system "buffet", having paid once 7 euros, and then having loaded a plate everything, that is in assortment – from coffee to a potato. And to be put it is possible some times. Also there there are automatic gas stations, drugstores, alcoholic shops, superbreadboard models and restaurant. In general, it is not difficult to guess, that for us these here ABC! Steels a liked place otovarivanija and perekusa as as usually, we free of charge took from them broshjurku with all points of these markets after a camp with plans of entrances to them, that has even more facilitated our problem on their search.
Finland – the country of red and blue small houses with white windows. Such small houses are scattered everywhere – small hutorkami in the middle of fields turning yellow from wheat or looking through between trees. Finland – the country of lakes which it is not simple much, is A LOT OF them, they have the most freakish forms, are cut up by islets, surrounded by pines. Practically near each such lake by which there passes a line there is a congress on a parking for rest where there are garbage tanks and little tables with benches. Cleanliness and any especial silence everywhere reigns, paternal is breathed easily and freely. In general, we in Finland somehow have accustomed at once have felt a full relaxation that at us was not in other countries.
By the evening we were rolled in Tampere – a place of our first spending the night in Finland. Have made toilet and have gone to wander across evening Tampere. Tampere – a city of the thrown bicycles. They rolled here in the full disorder in literal sense underfoot – on ulichah, in lanes, near inputs in shops and cafe. Such impression, that at Finns exists circulation of bicycles in the nature – has driven – has put a bicycle that another could drive. Actually I suspect, what is it not so, but at times I was visited by thoughts what images they find the in this chaotic heap of bicycles.
poveselil external shape of the Finnish youth. To tell, that here a lot of informally dressed – means nothing to tell. At times it seemed to me, that Finns by a principle «put on that has found the first in a case». It is a lot of rokerov and the simply aggressively dressed youth with freakish hairdresses. Tampere is located on two islets of the big lake connected among themselves by bridges. At night all coast of these lakes in the central part of a city are highlighted, the impression paternal is made, that the river shines. Very beautifully. In general, in Finland do not regret an electricity and fuel. Buses there godjat in strictly taken away intervals even also carry in the evenings frequently one-two passengers. Saw also a couple of the drunk Finns, one laying prone on a shop, another has got to us to kiss.
Having taken a walk it is a little more across Tampere in the morning, we have headed deep into the countries for Kuopio through small resort small town Iisalmi. This small town is known for that there there is the small in the world restaurant on one little table – Kuappi. We easily have found it directly near quay with boats rocking on waves and yachts. The small restaurant is a tiny wooden small house with the same tiny terrace on two persons. Unfortunately, the small restaurant oktryvalsja only from one o'clock in the afternoon and to wait to us in any way it was impossible, therefore we were limited only to that through a window have looked an interior with the same tiny small bottles named at us merzavchikami.
Kuopio – large enough Finnish city – a resort, as ski, and from the point of view of natural possibilities. Here there is an excellent modern ski springboard, a large quantity of lakes, dense untouched coniferous woods and the main sight of this city – tower Pujo, height in 72 metres with a viewing platform and the restaurant which floor in an hour does a full turn about the axis. The tower costs on a high (300) hill which it is possible even to name the mountain which slopes are covered by coniferous woods, paternal the landscape has reminded us Carpathians. There, at mountain top, it is direct near tower Pujo at us room in hotel, and the most important thing, to visitors of hotel an input on a tower free (has been reserved at the price in 3, 50 euros from the person)! On a tower the modern lift to restaurant goes, and on a viewing platform it is necessary to rise ten more steps and before us simply fascinating spirit a kind of Finland – lakes and infinite woods has opened. Wind on a tower such, that is not audible each other, and the kind costs vyshchelkannoj all flash card.
Below we have found the thick book of a response of visitors in cafeteria, prolistav which, unfortunately, have found any record from Ukraine and only pair-three from Russia. We hurried to correct this blatant injustice and have made an inscription, that we have visited tower Pujo from Ukraine.
Next day we should drive to final our point to Finland where at us the cottage for 2 days near small town Ranua has been reserved, known for the most northern in the country a zoo.
We went through popular Finnish ski resort JUvjaskjulja, then through Oulu where have curtailed already on Ranua. After Oulu we have driven according to a map in «southern border of migration of a reindeer». On road the corresponding sign hung, from the Finland designated by a black northern part and near to it a sign «is cautious, deer». To tell the truth, I heard, that in Finland without ceremony it is possible to see in the distance grazed deer, but I did not expect, that we will see their going couples directly on a road roadside, or grazed nearby in a grass. I remember, first time when we have seen deer peacefully going on road, we have not moved down nearly from unexpectedness in a ditch then have stopped and have started them to photograph. Zrelshche it is final very much for our person unusual though Finns to it habitual, we saw as a waggon is dashing dispersed two deer loafing on highway – one white, and one grey. As a result, on road in Ranua, we saw deer still time 4, that each time resulted us in shchenjachy delight.
In Ranua at us the cottage which has surpassed all my expectations though I and saw its photos on the Internet when reserved has been removed. As a result we managed a small two floor cottage with kitchen, the TV, a double bed, mikrovolnovkoj, a coffee maker and an electric plate. There was also a sauna which should be kindled, that we as a result and have made. The cottage stood on the bank of the river Simojoki (the Salmon river) and we have regretted, that did not take a fishing tackle, so there there was a pacified place and pure, transparent water. Besides our cottage, at its owner with an epoch-making name for our person Rajmo, was still such five – on 6 and 8 persons. Owners were very lovely people who are not bad speaking English. In general, in Finland the problem of English language is not necessary – on him fine izesnjajutsja as in shops, and simple people, at least at that level which is necessary to understand each other. By the way, bottle thrifty brought from Ukraine «Ukrainian with pepper», has resulted in full delight of owners of a cottage.
On chetvyortnyj day we should visit a main objective of our travel - the Polar circle and village Santa-Klausa. All it together is in 10 km from tourist small town Rovaniemi which accordingly from us was all in 80 km. On Rovaniemi at us has been taken away all the day, we more anywhere did not plan to go more.
Small village Santa Klausa is a whole small town from souvenir small houses, Mails Santy, its personal office and set of cafe and actually, the line of the Polar circle which are passing through all platform before a front entrance. On a parking we have found cars with Polish, German, Norwegian, Italian and even Spanish numbers. At main office Santy it was possible to be photographed with it for 15 euros. We have decided not to be greedy and if have called in in such distance not to pass such possibility. Santa it has appeared big, good-natured djadechkoj with all necessary ammunition in the form of a red suit, a hat with a pompon, a white dense long beard and thick vjazannymi socks to knees in a red and green strip. I have a little talked to it, he has asked, whence we, has told, that there were in Kiev three times and has invited to it once again to Lapland. For 15 euros to us have handed over the big photo in a special envelope with inscription The Oficial Photo with Santa Claus. By the way, the phrase someone from visitors Santy about group "Лорди", has resulted it simply in an affect condition. It has hastened to cry out, that «Lordi – is my very special friend!», and it is very glad, that its liked group know not only in Finland. After a photo we have gone to mail Santy where all sent letters with a unique stamp to themselves and the acquaintances. On Mail it is possible to choose any of a wide range of cards, an envelope and the stamp and to throw in one of two mail boxes – for departure today or already under Christmas. We have written to ourselves the letter and have thrown it in box for sending today, having decided not to wait Christmases. Running beforehand, I will tell, that the letter has come to Kiev all for 4 days. Among other things, we also have got for 4,20 euros the certificate about that we have successfully crossed a polar circle on August, 17th, 2006 with a special stamp. In total in Rovaniemi we have spent all the day long and have left therefrom already after six. Ahead we had a Sweden.
On road on frontier small town Tornio we have again seen a deer whom roads thoughtfully stood directly in the middle. Having caught sight of our car, it has disappeared in wood. Tornio it is known for that half of this city belongs to Finland, and half already under name Haparanda – already Sweden. As we also suspected – no border is present, on one of crossroads the modest badge “Sverige” in a familiar circle from asterisks hung. The line has exchanged cardinally. That one strip, two strips for passing. Quality of road very good. The large stone, but rubber does not hoot. Left to try – indeed: it is filled in by pitch – nevozvozhno krossovkom to scroll a circle on asphalt, tenacity stunned. On signs it is possible to go 110. We go. More close by the end of day have driven in the city of Shellefteo (Skelleftea). The hotel has been found practically at once. It was on the central market area. What to tell about network hotels «Best western»? It is excellent 24-ch. Service. Free coffee-tea in a hall. The underground parking enters into double room cost (70 euros). The Internet have used there and then in a hall as on the laptop is not present Wi-Fi. Have sat, had a drink coffee. On each floor near the lift there is a little table with tea-coffee and fruit. Grapes and kivi just in Sweden have kept up J. It is better not to speak About quality of bed-clothes. In Kiev searched such – is not present on sale. More shortly, number has very much liked. A city too. Just on Friday the end of working week. Here we, walking on an evening city, also have seen, how the Swedish youth is delayed! That is why they such counterbalanced – at them for days off all dur leaves a head. Nevertheless, on Saturday morning in streets it was pure enough. The city both was beautiful, and remained. Unique illness has hooked on Sweden – grafiti.
Next day we have become hollow in small town Sandsvall. Basically the same beautiful small town with not hurrying people, a heap of markets and a large quantity of a retro - of cars of the American manufacture with very pleasant sound of the motor. It is felt, that under a cowl there is something. Cars are necessarily polished and it is obligatory on black rubber with a white rim. Where they take now such rubber?! Despite krutost cars, nobody goes faster 50 km.ch. Have lodged in network hotel "Ibis". In ibises all is simple – show listing from the Internet about the reservation, give a credit card and all: to you give out a magnetic key. I think, conditions in ibises to describe it is not necessary. All cheap but good. All that the person has had a rest. TV, a shower, a good bed, number for smokers, as always - good linen. As usually – we throw things and forward. To walk on small Swedish small towns it is very pleasant and safe. From it there is a feeling of any intoxication. Simply it would not be desirable to leave. To remain here to be. But time draws in. It is necessary to have time to have a rest. Tomorrow the most responsible moment. Tomorrow we go to Stockholm.
Stockholm …. Here it – capital of the state most provided in the world. Things in "Ibis", a shower and quickly in the centre. Days off, a parking free of charge, therefore we go by the car. It is final, very heavy to understand system of roads and tunnels of Stockholm, but presence of a good map and an internal compass has allowed us to park in an excellent place. We throw the car and we go down to quay. To tell – the city of anything is how much beautiful – not to tell. He should be seen. It is located on 33 islands and islets. To each island there is a bridge and it is possible to be lost simply in radius of 300 metres. The big interest was called by local suburban electric trains. Speed 200 km.ch and to the airport (35 km. From Stockholm) they reach for 15 minutes. For 9 hours of walk on this great city have received many positive emotions. It would not be desirable to leave at all, but we knew, that we will return the next day to the centre to buy souvenirs napamjat and necessarily T-short with an inscription of the country for ourselves. So I do the Support in each country J have justified myself at shootings of a night city. First time I did not have no card in the camera. It was necessary to hammer also in internal memory. The city is devilishly beautiful, and presence of uncountable quantity of passages and channels reflects illumination of buildings. Because of it practically each photo becomes "wallpaper th" J
And here there has come, probably, the most sad day. We leave Sweden. Surprising edge with its freakish bays on which coast we had dinner in which salty water. With huge bridges in height under 70 metres. With its small quiet cosy small towns. With its lovely inhabitants who necessarily will help you if has lost the way which go by cars of 50-60 years on a city with a speed of 30-40 km/hour. With its huge and very beautiful Stockholm in which without indexes to drive it is impossible. Our ferry already waited for us in Karlskrone 1.5 hours prior to departure. We have slowly passed customs and have stood in line from cars. The turn from waggons nearby was built. It was difficult to believe, that all it will get into the ferry. After loading still there was a place on some cars. In the ferry the life rages. On 6 floor it is possible to spend the remained crones for everything. On 7 floor restaurant with live music. On 8 floor a bar for truckers «For Trackers Only». Cultural muzhiks sit to themselves and drink pivko. More close by midnight the life on the ferry fades. It is a high time to walk on a deck. We have got on the uppermost. To tell, that grasps spirit – not to tell anything! Height of the 9-storeyed house and below the high sea. Night. It is a pity, that photos did not leave.
But as the sea at a dawn when you swim up to Gdynia is beautiful. The city has liked exactly so, how much we could see it. Ahead there was a difficult way to Warsaw. The road was under repair simultaneously in several places. And detours were on 25 kilometres, and movement on one strip. Unfortunately, in Kuopio we have forgotten our invaluable map of Poland, therefore it was necessary to peer strenuously at signs. But it has rendered us strong service. On a sign we have seen, that in Gdansk there is a ferry with departure in port of Helsinki. Now we know how to pass Russia and Belarus, to get to Finland. The reluctance to pay to the former brothers taxes for using road on $25, for transport gathering (if in Belarus it is possible to explain it a good condition of roads in a case with Russia it is simple obdiralovka) and for «dark blue maps» though all Europe uses the green. Having reached Warsaw, began to search for a lodging for the night. The blessing, on a map is all hotels of Warsaw, since its suburbs. In him we also have stopped. What for to overpay for habitation in a city, having the car?
After that we have gone to city centre to wander by an old part where we were half a year back for Catholic Easter. Warsaw has not changed. The same darling, pure, benevolent to Ukrainians. The centre of Warsaw reminds the centre of Krakow and Vrotslava where we happened last year. All Poland is a small village. In each small town it is obligatory to eat the central market. nabrodivshis on a city, have gone to liked supermarket TESCO. Its dairy rolls and curd cakes dreamt us at night. Have typed, that wanted to a sailing. The blessing, the prices almost Kiev.
Having spent the night in hotel we have moved home. Have approached in Dorohusk, we have defended turn and here in Ukraine. What first thoughts when you drive to Ukraine? About them I will better keep silent. It is necessary to go simply home and to reach today, in spite of the fact that seven evenings.
Have become hollow to Kiev nearby to o'clock in the morning, have unloaded, have drunk for arrival, have taken a shower and … instead of falling asleep, we began to discuss a new route. Most likely we once again will go to Scandinavia. How to receive visas independently – already we know. Where to stop – too. How to reach – too. Only the route should be changed in more severe direction. Helsinki – Oulu – Rovaniemi (it is obligatory!) – further a joint Finland-SHVETSIJA-norvegija - Nordkapp – Tromse – and downwards across Norway home. For this purpose there is as early as a whole year. For now we will look photos and to fill up credit cards.