So, it was made. Instead of fortnight valjanija on beaches and grumbles concerning too hot weather – long autotravel on five European countries, with borders, stoppers, detours, rains, hailstones and the other attributes accompanying the wanderer in its hard business. The spouse after eight-hour pedestrian walk across Budapest has uttered literally the following: tourism – heavy job. But, about all one after another.
At first there was a word. Our Munich friend, during one of the visits to Ukraine, has unintentionally turned aspiration of our thoughts from the hot south on the moderate West, having invited. Term gostevanija was established by itself – certainly – Oktoberfest. Further, considering possibility only unitary visa-free entrance to Hungary on shengenu, and also presence on a way of Budapest, Vienna, Prague and Krakow, has been decided not to drive horses, and to do small stops in these cities. As my excursion preferences not in all coincide with preferences Monjashi, has been decided to wander on foot simply on cities, having made preliminary a route, looking in everything, that will get on road: in temples, palaces, shops and restaurants, looking narrowly at inhabitants and visitors. More shortly to feel spirit of a city and to embody in imagination its image.
Attentively having listened to councils of skilled autotravellers – thanks Kokos, Cheeky, Dr. AJP, Serj, Vadim_Od, Cabai for councils, very much it was useful – having reserved by maps and schemes, money and the resoluteness, encouraged by wishes and support forumjan, we started.
In September, 7.00 26th, we monja, attentively feeling beams of headlights an artful Zhitomir line, is enough humming, has confidently incurred us to the western border. Strangely enough, but anything new to myself, except closed roundabout round Zhitomir, on a way to Lvov I have not found out. All as always: moderate quantity IDPSov, hollows and cars on road. Therefore some hours have been spent for specification of details, the disputes, to what music to listen and whether not enough film we took with ourselves. A dinner traditional soljankoj which has appeared this time a little bit worse, than usually, in "Viking" on roundabout Lvov – and you understand, that behind the back already almost half-thousand in km.
The road to Uzhgorod places became much better, I have thought. But already through pair tens in km has regretted about it. In a place of the next repair us have sent to a detour which than 20 km were in the length more, on narrow roads with the dense traffic. It was necessary malyoho popotet. The understanding of was the following unexpectedness that co-ordinates and phones reserved in Mukachevo hotels, remained at home. But happens as in an old joke: «the World is full of unexpectedness – the wolf has thought, failing in the wolf hole. But, having seen there a ram, has calmed down – every cloud has a silver lining.» For some kilometres to Uzhgorod has moved down under the index «Gold mountain» - and has not regretted. On a mountain slope wooden cottages on two numbers, with all conveniences, fresh linen and parking directly at a threshold. Not far, metres 50, small restaurant with good kitchen and with "music". Silence, air and fibers jumping almost on shoulders have cast Kuravlevsko-Knjazevsky at apartment ShpAka visiting: « It I have successfully come ». The kind supper under accompaniment of"live"musicians was cast by romantic moods and evening it has appeared much more long …
Departure after a slow breakfast has taken place under a rain nearby 12.00. As to Budapest it was not far, special fears to be late were not. And in vain. After polutorachasovogo border passages, under an ambiguous nod Hungarian pogranichnitsy, 5 minutes of a verifying photo in all available for me documents with my person, we have pathosly rolled in Hungary. Foul visibility, a rain and hardly creeping stream of cars have made the black business. We have not seen turn on the road conducting to a motorway. When the understanding has come, that we go there, but not so, to come back was already late. Have given up as a bad job and have decided to weaken the nerves arrival in TESKO, money to change, have a bite, take a look. Well, not all so is simple in our world. The cash dispense has fastidiously spat out privatbankovskuju a card of the maestro and has informed, that it on Mondays does not submit. Having thanked in a little bit violent expressions the Privatbank promising receipt of means by 14.00 (on hours was already nearby 17.00) was changed by a ready cash on necessary and, having executed planned, has gone further. Low overcast has quickly transformed grey evening rainy night. To go became a little slozhnovato, but the Budapest which has loomed on horizon has added forces. Oh, as they were necessary. For crossing of Danube the most successful bridge has been chosen not. A result of +30 minutes. Having consulted from second time with an outcome on the area Moscow-rubbed, have continued sadly-probochnyj a way to otelchiku. Few times having asked road at counter-cross-section it was convinced, that a map of a native city for some, as a double-Dutch. Have found. The supper and a dream have followed one after another immediately.
The sun has rushed into a room, having spat on the closed jalousie, having announced about arrival of morning. At 10.00 we already were on the area Moscow-rubbed. Walk to Danube, on quay, transition on the bridge in Pesht, walk on foot zone Vaci, returning in I Will be, survey of the Budajsky fortress and a royal palace, further by church Matjasha, Maria-Magdaliny tower and, at last, tired we have dropped in under beginning rain in a tram all on the same area Moscow-rubbed. Probably, hardly I should describe everything, that we saw. On it there are guidebooks. I will tell one: it is necessary to visit and visit this city not once. Have simply amazed the small, almost secret court yard hidden in vegetation, with small fountains, in a royal palace. Has to romanticism … Secret appointments, I think, were absolutely simple business … As, however, it was simple to avoid and undesirable meetings … But, I have distracted. Surprising influence on me is rendered by walks in old cities, be it small Sozopol, be it the beauty Vienna or, looking in waters of blue Danube, Budapest. By the way, why Danube name blue, I and have not understood. Waters in him steadily cast greens. Probably, it was blue in an antiquity. In raised mood from seen I have suggested Monjashe to photograph me on the highest point of the bridge. But the phrase of the spouse that can photograph me once again, but already in police and for money, has a little cooled my heat.
Tramvajchik carried us to hotel, and before eyes still there were graceful outlines of a building of Parliament, fantastic church Matjasha and quiet magnificence of the royal palace painted by autumn paints...
In the next morning we already were on a way to Vienna. It seemed, in a quiet drive on avtobanu unexpectedness will not be. Yes far from it. Having made, after Hungarian skorpom, the next passing on lifting and, having slipped any distance on the left number with the fat arrows directing us in the right number, it is direct before itself has seen the Hungarian policeman specifying in me by … by a peak-cap and doing ambiguous gesture. Has stopped. Ahead of me the Hungarian on skorpe has stopped. The policeman, carelessly having thrown me «the Moment …», has invited the Hungarian to the car and kind ten minutes explained it its infringement. All chertyhanijami the Hungarian and razmahivaniem has terminated in the receipt on penalty payment. My turn has come. Cheerfully having told Monjashe «Prepare a fifty-kopeck piece …», I vigorous step have approached to the police car. I give documents. Dialogue:
- O-o-o! Vitaly? Klichko … - in language in which Russian is hardly guessed.
- I its cousin uncle – on purely Russian, with a charming smile.
Further, numerous attempts to explain to me my infringement have not given results. The pencil, a sheet of paper, an illustration has gone to a course with signs. Full misunderstanding.
- Du ju spik … - politsaj has not had time to finish speaking yet, as my head joyfully zakivala. But the brain has reacted instantly and the speech centre has cast out short "is not present". It has puzzled politsaev as I obviously am not similar to the Bulgarian. Before my eyes there was a receipt with figure 10 000. I have desperately rolled up a head. After short Russian-Hungarian dialogue, younger politsaj left the car and, having shown the receipt, long explained, that = 40 euros and I them should pay 10 000 forints in the nearest branch of mail. I continued not to understand. Then politsaj has made movement by fingers on a paper as if scissored it, has told «20 euros – to the chief» and has winked. Understanding, that all it proceeds already half an hour, I have decided to surrender. Having taken out polusotennuju a piece of paper, has enclosed it in the rights. politsai minutes five something is live discussed among themselves, then the senior has returned me all documents instead of with a denomination and has waved with a hand, type, farewell. I have important thanked and have slowly returned to the car. We left under a scratch of brakes of the next victim which, I think, incriminated the same infringement.
Border passage has occupied one and a half minute, and we on the Austrian party. Entrance on refuelling (not for refuelling, as in Hungary it was filled in under a stopper, and for to have a drink coffee, to buy a map and a vignette) in 20 minutes we have continued movement. Through rather short time we were rolled in Vienna. As visit to Monjashinoj to the girlfriend living in Vienna was assumed, we have stopped at a roadside to consider a map. All like would be clear, but after short time we have understood, that something here not so. Having read the name of street and having consulted the map, we have understood, that we are absolutely in other party from the place necessary to us. Has begun nervous drav on the unfamiliar city hammered under most I "do not want" cars further. I am, of course, familiar with culture of drivers on the West from Ukraine, but each time I do not cease to be surprised. At an entrance to the next crossroads having decided, that is necessary to us more to the left, was reconstructed in the left number. But Monjasha, holding in a lap a map, began to insist on the right turn. chertyhnuvshis, I have switched on the right turn and, about, a miracle! Two numbers more to the right of me a steel as driven. I have turned, having noticed about myself, that movement in Vienna can be stopped simple inclusion of the index of turn. In the end-ends, we taki have found 10th area necessary to us, but to drive in it it has appeared too business not simple. It is necessary to know a city. And the nobility where one-and where bilaterial movement. Having observed joyful embraces of girlfriends, I have asked to put vodka in a refrigerator, as have been executed immediately. It was visible a kind at me still that … in the Morning, having bought the day ticket for journey and having driven four stops by the underground, we have appeared on SHtefanplats. The cathedral has so fascinated, that we have bypassed it twice before to come inside.
In general, so it seemed to me, SHtefanplats is the centre of tourist Vienna. Such quantity raznogovorjashchih tourists I did not see anywhere in this city. Having noted abundance of walking carriages on the area, we have moved on Kartnershtrasse in direction Staatsopery. Leaving on the area, have been subjected attack of excursion agents which, not reaching 20 metres to us, have begun a rough monologue in Russian. It was already the second case when skilled children have learnt in us russkogovorjashchih citizens. Have decided to examine Hofburg further. Completely to estimate scale of this palace occupying of some quarters, we could only having got out through some internal court yard and galleries on Heldenplats. There and then nearby there was also Maria-Terezy area, with being on it two absolutely identical, but from it not less majestic buildings, nowadays museums of Natural history and history of Arts. It was regretfully found out, that, being nearby, the Parliament is closed by a building fence. Therefore it was necessary to be satisfied with survey of the top part, looking over a fence. But, having come nearer, with surprise have found out, that pedantic avstrijaki have made in a fence some the big observation ports through which the sculptural complex before a parliament building was well looked through. Unfortunately, it was not possible to find out, that represents this antique magnificence. Slightly the charter, had a rest in magnificent Rathaus-park and further, contemplating the Town hall, city theatre and a complex of National university, have reached an underground stop. Evening in cosy cafe has added impressions and has lowered money. Everything to sleep, tomorrow transition to Munich.
From a city and the road to Munich has occupied departure of more time, than we planned. Understanding, that gasoline in Austria is hardly cheaper, than in Germany, have decided to be filled in under a stopper. In good mood … have slipped turn on avtoban. Warned by the new Viennese acquaintance about the special relation of a traffic police of Austria to avto from the former republics, only now have pasted a vignette on a windshield and, having put on a speedometer 130, have gone towards Munich. The moment of crossing of border remained not noticed. The understanding, that we already in Bundese has emerged instead of with a sign on restriction of speed 130км. Though, speak, somewhere should be and the tablet, we is simple it have not noticed. avtoban there was all in turns/liftings/descents so one admired beauty of mountains Monjasha. Condensed clouds ambiguously hinted us, that so is simple to Munich we will not arrive. And here on an entrance when bark of the Munich dogs was already audible, we were covered with a downpour, apparently, also with hailstones. Shone signs have told at once with what speed it is necessary to go now. Though and not to all has reached – something at the left was continually carried by whistling and roaring. On the sly we also have approached on that place where the meeting with friends has been stipulated. Evening has ended with a quiet dream in a cosy underground parking for ours fordika and in the pleasant evening for us.
The first day has been devoted the pedestrian walk across Munich. Being in Munich any more for the first time, I was glad to a meeting with this city, as with the old acquaintance. Is on what to look in this city, though in due time the allied aircraft has done the utmost to wipe a cradle of nazism off the face of the earth. However, among escaped and partially restored there was and Frauenkirhen, and a Town hall, and a palace of Justice (Justice), and some buildings NSDAP constructed in the best traditions of Romans which history so the Fuhrer admired. Already along toward evening, rather got tired, we have reached a palace of last king of Bavaria Ludwig II. Know, has not impressed … Day has come to the end in bowling where we have come after a good supper and rest. Understanding consequences of this action (I mean krepaturu), all of us, with all the heart and with the great pleasure, to steam of hours spheres rolled. But, by the way, in our "Strike" it is pleasant to me more …
In the next afternoon there was a trip to one of pearls of Bavaria – to lake Kimzee. On this lake, on island one more palace of last Bavarian monarch is located. Actually, it also was the purpose of our trip. During any moment, Ludwig II amazed with magnificence of Versailles, has wanted to have and at itself something similar. Not philosophising crafty, in one of zhivopisnejshih corners of Bavaria practically the copy of this also has been erected. And here, after 15 minute heats on a boat, we at the purpose. The landing stage is placed not without intention. The palace from water is not visible. And only, having walked even 15 minutes on wood, we have suddenly appeared before a palace. Taki it is similar, I have told to myself, having called from memory, vidennoe in cinema and prospectuses, the Versailles miracle. However not so much palace, how much fountains have made strong impression. Was not in Versailles, but now it would be desirable to compare … Much having developed on park, have gone to a way back.
We were waited by the main holiday – Oktoberfest! In how much hours the escalator of one of stations of the Munich underground has splashed out us in the noisy and dense sea of the crowd warmed up by beer. It was last day festival. Fairly having worked to make the way through crowd to our pavilion, we, at last, have got inside. Shouting, making a din and singing public, came off on the full. The orchestra tirelessly najarival national Bavarian and not absolutely Bavarian motives, and each of ten thousand the persons who were going to under one roof, echoed, more correctly, podkrikival as could and in a full voice. To talk it was possible only close having bent to each other and thoroughly straining a voice. Very quickly, at once after the first mug of beer, this euphoria has twirled also us. Perfectly prepared, but thoroughly put too much salt chicken, whence from depth of a stomach demanded more and more some beer. And it was! Having climbed up benches, we danced together with the rest ljudom, spilling against each other beer and bawling any German songs … JAzykovyj the barrier is a myth, already I am again convinced of it.
Time has flown by imperceptibly, it was time to leave. Having got out on fresh air and having swept on several attractions, we have gone home. Already at the metro station have seen two employees of security service of the festival, taking of a backpack any unfortunate фестивальщика beer mugs. In my opinion, it is not less ten … to Steal badly …
Lock Nojshvanshtajn visiting became one more bright event. It is one more of Ludwig's locks which and has not been finished by it during lifetime. And, IMHO, the most beautiful. Located in mountains, it as though soars over the earth. However, the lock is a concept conditional. Any fortifikatsionnoj values if so it is possible to be expressed, it does not represent. But it, undoubtedly, a work of art. And here, having supported at mountain bottom, at typical Bavarian small restaurant, roast from kosuli, we have gone to the lock. It would be possible to drive, of course, on a vehicle harnessed in pair of heavy trucks, but we have solved, nevertheless, on foot. Also have not regretted. On a route viewing platforms are located some, magnificent landscapes both on mountains, and on a valley whence open. I will not describe the lock, look. Back went down on a path for sick bicyclists. Pair from them us has overtaken, but neither we have not considered racers, nor their bicycles. Whether it is possible to have time to consider a falling star? Having admired, at last, a show of flight of the lock by a balloon (brave children – distances were scanty) we have left this heavenly spot.
Time of our stay in Munich has come to an end also we, having fulfilled a route to Prague, through Dresden, early in the morning were rolled out on street for a long time already the woken up Munich. Even before our departure from Kiev we called up with N-TP and have preliminary agreed to drink kofejku where-thread near Nuremberg. But, having specified a route, I have been compelled to apologise and cancel a meeting. Necessary to us avtoban passes in other party. It is necessary to tell, that from Munich to Prague it is possible to reach very quickly and on good road. But nostalzhi iron pincers has squeezed for a throat and has rigidly demanded to go in Kyonigsbrjuk (27км from Dresden). Nevertheless there has lived almost 6 years, it would be desirable to look as there now. And when still there will be a possibility …
Separate silent word, it is direct in this place, it would be desirable to recollect Privatbank again. Having listened to councils skilled about possibilities of different-any cards for payment and an exchange in zabugore, have decided to take in the beginning all the CACHE. But in poslednyj the moment, Monjasha, having given in to arrangements Privatovtsev, has decided a part of money to throw on "myttevu" a card. As we managed to receive money in Hungary, I already wrote. After that has passed nine days. But bundesovsky a cash dispense as well as its Hungarian relative, has not given money to us. I imagine our position if not friends … Some minutes of dialogue by phone have corrected a situation and in Czechia we already freely used a card that has appeared rather convenient.
Departure from Munich has appeared long and boring. In 7 o'clock in the morning we have slowly joined a toffee and has passed more than 40 minutes while I could finish an arrow of a speedometer to отметки150. After the lapse of 4 hours we have driven in a small town in which it is a lot of years back for one night while Its Majesty had a rest, the bridge through a small rivulet that the royal train could follow further has been constructed. The feeling with which I approached to Kyonigsbrjuku, designates present young generation a word "pryot". Here and me "perlo" on all hundred. However, pohodiv-having wandered in familiar places, I have been a little disappointed. In small town there was enough of uninhabited houses, including, practically everything where once lived our military man ljud. The territory where the regiment took places, has appeared completely grown with a bush in two-three human growth. When I have seen the house in which I have lived some years, with the beaten out glasses broken from loops by doors, the destroyed steps – on eyes tears were screwed. It became sentimental, I grow old …
Having glanced in the most like there is no time the gastshtet, has seen, that at owners of business go better, than in small town as a whole. Having reserved a stake, tried to communicate to the young mistress. It was possible to build phrases which, to my surprise, have been understood by the mistress from very poor stock of German words. There was, that a former mistress whom I well remembered, is already cunning in the world other and now the proprietress of an institution is the grand daughter. Then I, nevertheless, recognised (or me so it seemed) in the new proprietress the blond little girl who helped the grandmother to cope with an institution 16 years ago. It is necessary to tell, that the mistress has tried, the stake has appeared stunned and we have finished with it with the great pleasure. Having left generous tip, we have continued the way.
The worst our fears have proved to be true. Е-55, on which we have left to reach to Prague, it has appeared a narrow two-strip, with ten remonto-detours and very dense traffic. Rather pomuchivshis, we have driven, at last, to Czechia. Frontier guards have put our car aside and minutes 15 communicated with the computer, "unijtsy" at this time followed through border, practically, not stopping at all. Having pasted the next vignette resolving journey on avtobanam of Czechia, we were pulled out on operative open space. The open space has very quickly ended, Prague was ahead drew.
Having met in an agreed place with my Czech partner, we were solemnly preprovozhdeny in hotel. The next day – business negotiations, then survey of Prague. While we discussed our affairs with partners, Monjasha with the wife of the partner has decided to visit local trading institutions. But after Hungary, Austria and Germany she has been obviously disappointed both assortment, and the prices. More close to sredine day us have invited in small restaurant "Rapir" somewhere in suburb of Prague. Stained-glass windows, candles, razveshannye on banner walls, the weapon and an armour, as though, have transferred us to the Middle Ages. But, impressive "bombarak" (huge combined half-and-half derun in which the meat prepared under the ancient recipe) is enclosed it is eaten, the pair of mugs of beer is drunk also we through short time get to one of old areas of Prague – Gradchany. Constantly watering crowds of tourists the rain strained a little and constantly called desire somewhere to come, in beer, in a little shop still where … But, we courageously struggled with a bad weather, times concluding an armistice.
Has a little surprised a considerable quantity russkogovorjashchego the people in Prague. No, I mean not tourists. In each shop where we came or in cafe necessarily there was a little man from the former open spaces USSR. The office of my partners in Czechia is built too by ours "zarobitchany". Distributing advertising and inviting to any actions zazyvaly in streets, through one, ours.
nabrodivshis after fancifully winding small streets Old Mjasta, have returned on Karlov Most to admire a kind of a night city. A watch about eight, got tired and decently wetted through have returned to hotel. Suddenly, absolutely suddenly, of itself has reminded a stomach. Bombaraka has sufficed at seven o'clock. Nearby there was a pizzeria, and we, not philosophising crafty, have decided to glance there. And here I have again recollected hero Kuravlyov. Under a pizzeria signboard the small small restaurant with the extensive menu printed on three tens of sheets by a small font disappeared. The pizza, actually, too has been presented, but we have stopped on fish and seafood. All was not simply tasty! It from a series «fingers you will lick». Do not believe signboards …
In the morning, under still not ended rain, we have left Prague. The Czech companion has advised to drive to Katowice and to go on avtobanu to Krakow. And have arrived. The drive was with variable pleasure. The perfect road was replaced by repairs and detours, stoppers and toffees. On border, as always, long studied our passports, we used this compelled stop for warm-up and any needs. Every cloud has a silver lining, though the toilet on border has appeared paid. Hardly having reached Katowice, have curtailed under the index and through pair kilometres have strongly begun to doubt. The road reminded itself ruined on spring "varshavku". But to everything, even bad, the end and here we on an autobath comes. As on me this piece on quality does not pull on avtoban. But to Krakow on it to drive it is possible, that we and have made. Having arrived to Krakow, I have called in hotel which has been reserved on 8th October. I wish to tell, that we have arrived 9th. As one would expect, bron "has burnt down" also numbers free it has not appeared. The mistress has informed, that to Krakow there has arrived the big group of tourists of Slovakia, and in general, the season yet has not ended. The Pole whom we have met on Oktoberfeste has gained. It planned a trip to Krakow and we have agreed, that on arrival we will phone. He has prompted hotel, we have lodged and, pressing in myself a toad, for the paid hundred dollars for a lodging for the night, have gone to sight-see a city. Krakow a beautiful city, but I think, to look it after Budapest, Prague and Vienna it is not necessary. It was interesting, but without delight. Impressions there was an obvious search. It has been decided not to remain for day, and to arrive to Krakow somehow another time. Because to look there taki is that.
The sad was expensive home usual and some. On the present it became clear, that we at home already on border. I am sorry about ladies, but the customs officer only in a bum to me yet has not glanced … Having examined all bags, handbags and kulechki, one of them not asking, has put a hand in the cardboard box standing in the heart of a luggage carrier … I Am visible, adding butter, have not densely twirled a stopper therefore as well as the hand, and kitel, and a pea jacket of the guard of borders has appeared in "mobile phone". Remembering huge lying policemen in two Nakonechnyh (villages so are called – one Pershe, the second-Druge), was driven by us to ourselves slowly to Lvov, and from Lvov - to Kiev.
All. There are passed 4 545 km. 470 litres of gasoline "are eaten". From the bill it is written off 800 evrov and 360 doljarov. One camera with a film from Pragi/Krakova is lost. The others 4 films are safely printed. From which has placed here some photos. The machine has proved to be perfectly, anywhere and never has not coughed at all. Thanks Sergey «mondeevskomu to the doctor» and to its children who checked the car before a trip. To tell the truth, at me were some excitement concerning customs – the car under pledge and it is brought in the register - but it interested nobody.
Thanks all who had enough patience to read up up to the end.