The beginning of deployment of our holiday scenario was preceded by visit in with. Dolochchja (ukr.) (though on a place its dialect name Doloche), Kunevsky area of Khmelnitskiy area for visiting of interesting district action. Parents of the wife therefrom, and the brother of her father, the seaman in resignation, is engaged in creativity - writes verses. Under its lyrics, composers select music, and variety executors sing on different pesennyh actions both in Ukraine, and in Russia. In the Jail and Kuneve steel events its creative evenings.
In the Jail the concert has been greased by that local ljud, probably, has considered a concert as a part agitprogrammy JAnukovicha and not pochtil even the seminotice. The suspicion has fallen on posters which were pokleeny in such a manner that there could be a thought on communication of a concert and «vote for PR». It is fine, but in Kuneve propagation were not. And to peasants, I will not be afraid this word, has had the luck to listen to uncle's verses in Victor Balashova's execution (remember such announcer of the Soviet TV?) and songs on its verses in Paul Dvorskogo's execution and others (has forgotten names) actors. Because in the lyric poet the local edge and consequently more often was sung, what well where in our villages now in general who gives concerts, the people were in an infinite gratitude for possibility to try the forgotten taste of spiritual food and asked promises to arrive still.
Thanks to this "overture", we became much closer to the first purposes in respect of our tour and, not early in the morning, on 23rd of September, have left from Doloche on Olesko, to the lock, road through Kremenets. From Radivilova to Olesko a line exactly-lions pleasant, as popka the baby. «At most Києві such доріг it is mute є» (). The lock it is visible from a line. It looks well-groomed and have published and close.
Under the lock at once have taken seat in an excursion britska. The driver has appeared the good fellow and at once has suggested the Bear to sit down nearby and reins. The bear has not refused, as stories about about history of its lock do not interest yet, and stones in a garden not so that, and here an operated live horsy – an another matter.
Except old history of the lock, the driver has told also the recent. In particular, he has told, that scenes for «Fire here acted in film and we throw» and (sic!) «Adventures Electronics». Well, about the first I like also knew. And here of Electronics thought, that scenes in the lock acted in film only in Vilnius. Yet I do not know, what exactly there have removed in Olesko, it can local "legend", bo after returning, "guglezh" on this question has not given answers.
To have a bite in "Gridnitse" did not leave. On a trouble, there was a Sunday, and the restaurant was inaccessible because of a banquet... Further, we "have grown fond" there days off. Decent restaurant everyone in the slightest degree was on target under a banquet...
- Olesko
Further, naturally, were Pidgirtsy. There there were crowds of visitors by excursion buses and grandmas in searches «hitchhajka to Zolochiva». Them even the whole turn was built for sticking to the cars, driving off from the lock, with a question «And vi not on Золочів?».
"Louvre" personally me also interested about possibility to touch those places where "Musketeers" acted in film. Though from apart the lock makes impression, it and then still, if to look narrowly in a film, looked started. Now, apparently, destruction progresses. For example, a handrail, in that place where there is a left foot fencing d'artanjana, already is not present.
In Zolocheve we were already along toward evening and in the lock have not got. Therefore as protection let in, by turns, waiting excursion groups. It was necessary to be content with external survey of the lock. And also a kind prushchih cars, not looking at "brick", it is direct under the lock and local weddings at which, leaves, it is unique occasion in life to visit this historical a monument in a native city.
Thanking srezke in Zolocheve, to Lvov have reached before dark. Here, I as the motorist, yet was not. At once, from entrance on street Lychakivskoj, possibility to try both the Lvov stone blocks and the neighbourhood of trams and tram ways is given. Though in the majority of places rails not especially stir to movement, but with street Pidvalnoj where I have curtailed, before street Gonty they so tower over a stone blocks, that I, having concealed breath, waited for a landing on rails. But the god pardoned. And I avoided, further, there to go.
Further on CHornovola on Brjuhovichi where in «Olen і» have lodged in double for 185 grn. Have settled down, the shower and has gone to search, where to have supper, as at restaurant of our hotel, yes-yes, too there was a banquet. In district restaurants met here and there, but in all there was a banquet. Simply earth obanketovannaja... Under indexes have gone on "Valentina" and at last the destiny has taken pity. Here the restaurant has not been occupied. The prices pleasantly pleased. Even into doubt entered in that plan, «that to us will submit for such copecks». Behind the little it is more 100 grn. All three have gorged on "completely". The meal was quite at level.
Since morning - to Lvov! In the centre to be stuck, as it seemed to me, not a problem. Though often read complaints to difficulties of a parking in Lvov. Here is both paid parkings and free. But for the second it is necessary to turn. Evakuatory here too were present. It is fashionable now.
- Evacuation in Lvov
Probably therefore the avenue of Freedom was, basically, is free from the parked cars. By the way, has not understood why it the prospectus? After all it parkway!
For the prompt penetration of spirit of Lvov, at once have gone in kav'jarnju «Світ kavi» (square Katedralna, 6) for vkushanija «najkrashcho ї kavi in Lvov». Then guljanie and review of meeting sights in the Center. The top of mountain "High castle" has appeared under invasion of any insects, therefore long to admire a city there was no possibility. The muck climbed in eyes and by a plenty was confused in hair. That for anomaly – it is not clear. Hardly has descended from a top and they already are not present. But also the panorama too is not present.
Dinner in "Flamingo" on Krakow, 25. The Soviet name. Classical, but supported as it should be, an interior. Any visitor and excellent service. That I to myself have reserved all, all was pleasant. To Eugene – not all. Probably, it is necessary to know, that you reserve. The prices not high, but also not "dumping". In general, I recommend. After a dream, in the evening again to Lvov and, walking on an evening city, have met:
SHo vono take to learn it was not possible, bo late already was.
Next day, since the morning, the sauna, a late breakfast in "Bajke" (casually found out in Brjuhovichah restaurant in the Ukrainian style, quite at level and it is inexpensive, but has not written down the address), and have gone to look ZHovkvu.
- Restaurant "Байка" court yard
- ZHovkva
Architecture monuments in centre Zhovkvy beautiful and well-groomed. And here, for example, the Church of St. Great martyr Josafata, hardly at some distance, looks as a building preparing for a pulling down.
In the third day of stay in Lvov, our routes lay to the West from avenue of Freedom. At first dite it was run on a children's playground of park of I.Franka, then we have looked krasivennyj the Cathedral St. JUra. In a cathedral, the small fan to blow into candles has blown unique in a corner St. Josafata. For some reason at other sacred burnt pomnogu candles, and at it is only one. And on it the choice of the Bear has fallen. It was necessary to bring Josafatu a little. As an apology for zadutuju, for obdelennost in general, and for restoration of a church of his name in ZHovkve.
Knowing, that in Lvov there is a museum of history Lvov zaliznytsi, and being with the son fans of the railway, should try to get there. To find it was possible, though and in other place, than it is specified on information resources. In a museum, probably was surprised to our interest. As I have understood, there usually excursions go. And without children. Therefore, except us, was nobody. To the inspector, we, apparently, have liked. Except a fascinating narration, ditju, for its shown knowledge of locomotive business, it was allowed even to play a little exhibits. And supruzhnitsu – pofotat in a uniform of the Lvov railwaymen of the period of occurrence in Austro-Hungarian Empire. From the present, smotretel very warmly, even with tears on eyes, marked George Kirpy's contribution to lifting of the Lvov railway, during the stay of its its chief.
- Pair of exhibits in a Ry museum
On a railway wave we, certainly, and station have visited Lvov-main. The blessing from a museum – a hand a tax. Moreover and station stykovanija. A dinner – in «Seven pigs» on bandery, 9. A tasty Ukrainian cuisine, rather nedeshevo and tip to the waiter at a rate of 10 % is switched on in the bill. Personally I, to the virtue requirement concern negatively. So this fact has impaired a little my positive impression. After a dinner zhonka has gone to try shopping in the centre, and I and dite have gone to walk in Stryjsky park.
This park has saved only hints of former beauty. Now it looks as one more heritage in a decomposition stage. Everything, that there from the past – all in a condition «once – yes, blossomed». Except for a cinema «Львів», a such classical masterpiece pozdnesovetskoj ferro-concrete architecture. This worries both fountains and the children's railway (similar to those, that in Syretsky park in Kiev). In him just showed "antidur" and something less known. The children's railway... Like would live. But probably only in the summer and on the big holidays. Locomotives are hidden under locks in depot. Carriages stand with the beaten glasses. Traffic lights – too are beaten. But have found an arrow who has not been blocked also which it was possible to translate. Dityo has visually seen as it influences how on it the train moves, and itself poperevodil with my help.
As has darkened, have reunited with mum in wonderful «Gold dukate» (Fedorova, 20). Small kav'jarnja though personally I there kavi did not reserve. Preferred charms-zillja with chokoljadoj. An excellent place for romantic appointment. But because small – almost all time the notice and places, can, it is necessary to wait.
On it with Lvov everything, on the following we go in JAblunitsu.
Hotel "Олена", as a result, has not liked us. Not looking at all that we, basically, there only spent the night. First, the breakfast is switched on in cost. To refuse it is impossible. A breakfast – an omelette, two slices syrokopchenoj sausages, a tomato and tea. Had twice breakfast – variations were not. The menu only the such. A sauna not 80 grn., as it is specified on karpaty.info about them, and 100 at an o'clock. Well and on an hour it "vlom" to heat, it is necessary to reserve more. Almost end-to-end to hotel – the railway. On the other hand roads – wood. And it shielded a sound much. Even to us, its fans, this neighbourhood seemed too noisy. Though trains there go rather infrequently. Well and the personnel – any kindliness.
On not broken, but also not to good road to JAblunitsy, stopped in Rogatine. TSerkva Різдва, otrestavrirovannja, beautiful. St. Anna's church and St. Mikolaja – does not shine, but also does not fall off. All in the centre, near to monument roksolane. In Galich, near to TSerkvoju Різдва, - Святині davnogo Galich in a miniature.
1. Rogatin. Christmas church.
2. Galich. Relics of ancient Galich.
In JAblunitse we have lodged in sadybe «Huzul Edge» though anywhere on their small houses of this name is not present. On the index in general it is simply written «Domashnja kitchen» and phone. According to the mistress they so were called, only to be identified on the Internet. And to us they have attracted first of all that among set of variants of settlement in sadybe – this rare case of that a bathroom in number, instead of on a floor or even in a court yard. Well and the price – 100 grn. For number a day without a food.
The residence in JAblunitse was pleasant to us. From small minuses – only I will note not polished tree of a handrail (children can tyre out without ceremony a splinter) and a small boiler. Even to one to wash it is necessary in a mode of rigid economy. Otherwise douche by cold water is provided. A food – is perfectly in order, but to "a stomach joy» did not treat.
Next day we go on Goverlu. After Vorohty on it there is an index. Good road only to KP. There a barrier. For entrance to a recreational zone – on 20 grn. From the person. Behind a barrier – gruntovo-stone highway. Therefore "drove" there no more than 30 km/h. And that, only on "good" sites. And local, on "Zhigulis" on it went where faster. Under "Zarosljakom" the car have left. Local on it too earn additionally. For parking – 10 grn.
If I foreknew what actually lifting on Goverlu – is not assured, that would go there with the child. From stories, the ascension seemed to me to such itself hozhenoj a track, only in a hill. Therefore, type, a little popyhtet it is necessary.
Where there. On a fir grove it is still normal. Through a bush – too it is tolerant. But here when crawling on stones – here has begun, I will report on you, it is necessary to have persistence.
In 4 hours we it took. Four-year-old (and one month) the Bear has appeared the present good fellow and "has not filled up" to us an adventure. Has like the purpose and clambered upwards, and continually exclaimed - «ogo, surprise – jaky kra¾vid». And only on last lifting asked «мені treba troshki pospati, bo vzhe zdorov'ja кінчається». At top, other subjugators, not hesitating of that we can hear them, made comments «that mabut not bulo z kim ditinu zalishiti, and залізти хтілося...». And at us «with itself was» and we have appetizing noted conquest, making comments on commentators.
The mood became super, the sun shone, and the penetrating wind was at all. Descent – after other to a route. It, as seemed to us, more abruptly elevating. But downwards is not upwards. Downwards where it is easier. Though to relax it is impossible. A trauma to receive it is possible in no time.
- Ascension
1. The feathery parasite at top.
2. One of kinds from mountain.
- On the other hand Goverly.
By the way, mountains taki are full of unexpectedness... On a footpath have found 30 grn.... Have gone down very much in time. Darkness has pulled hard as soon as have left on Vorohtu. We with Mishinoj mum, having had supper, without feet were tumbled down on a bed, and the small goat all jumped from beds on a sofa and back, as though for all the day on stones Goverly not naprygalsja.
Next days, again were days off. And, walking on okresnostjam, in Vorohte, in JAremche, again there were problems with total banquets at restaurants. While you search where to eat more decently – you start to lose belief in mankind.
1. Vorohta. Church presvjatoj the Virgin.
2. Vorohta. A kind on area.
3-4. In JAremche.
Since morning of the first day of October, we have left on SHeshory. Rather short moving, kilometres with 80 through Verhovinu. The road there not so, places even foul, was remembered by time enough wild district: from different directions abrupt mountains and dense wood. It is not enough cars. And in village Krivop_llja, over road as a traffic sign, the icon from J.Timoshenko hung.
SHeshory – the village extended lengthways road going on valley between low mountains. On my taste – beautiful enough and cosy district. But road there... The Village is in a stage of a permanent wire of a gas pipeline. Therefore road constantly spoil, but do not hurry up to repair. Asphalt quite often is not present in general. Any fragments of ferro-concrete and rubble with stones.
Here on this disgrace we tried to find type tablets «Є вільні місця». Unlike JAblunitsy where such signboards pretty often, here, having reached till the end of SHeshor, I have not seen any. It was necessary to call on one of written down numbers, in «Sadibu Бойцуняків». An, no! The young lady has informed, that they just under repair, using inter-season period. It was necessary to go under the unique noticed index «zaproshu¾mo on відпочинок».
On a very narrow path on which and with the person it is difficult to car to miss each other, through a stream – have found those who invited. Here too – for visitors did not wait, but to them were ready. After viewing of habitation and short negotiations with mistress Gannusej about conditions (have bargained for 170 grn. A day with a two-single food. Ditenok - it is free), we began to be unloaded.
Sadiba outwardly not super, but round mountain in woods. And it is direct near to a court yard the small river P_stinka proceeds – dite has unburdened the heart on a fling of stones in water. Under stories of owners, in the summer they hands catch at night a trout, enticing it on light of lanterns. And in our arrival the trout in the river was not konditsionnaja. In sense at it only there has passed the period of spawning and fish exhausted.
But it it doesn't matter, gannusja us has pleased with an excellent home cookery. For us from road has quickly prepared a simple potato-tolchenki, kotletok from fresh pork, plus cucumbers salty. Anything unusual, but vkuuusno very much. And further, the kitchen at Gannusi was excellent. Owners were not too lazy once at all have gone somewhere behind a brynza. Bo it just was not, and I have mentioned about banoshe with a brynza. So type a surprise to us have made. Plus a cow is available for them. Ditju the pair milk was constantly offered. Was shorter with a food here in azhure.
To claim habitation is. A bathroom – separately, on the ground floor. Besides – boiler job unsatisfactory. In the rest – the bathroom is perfectly in order. Two rooms (though it is two separate numbers) have been given us for residing. In one number one double bed and a case. In the second – two king size beds and the TV. Rooms small enough and with low ceilings. In the summer, under stories of the mistress, it was constant on three families (is also the third room). As they were reconciled – a riddle. To us one, comfort it was small.
In the end of our residing we have learnt, that the manor is called "JAlinka". Infa about it is on karpaty.info.
- Manor "JAlinka".
- The nature in SHeshorah.
- Сріблясті vodospadi.
Kolomyja from SHeshor absolutely nearby. Therefore its visiting was natural. On central area Відродження in Kolomye entrance is forbidden. It is forbidden from different directions by signs, not roundabout barriers and, at last, GAI patrol. However, an interdiction as usually, concerns not all. There the local taxi pool and other machines, obviously, exclusive inhabitants is pounded.
Historical monument – the Town hall. It seems it is closed for interested persons eh-rise and examine vicinities. In a museum pisanki, me personally, have more interested pictures in beads. Katya – pictures embroidered. It even has left the enthusiastic response about this beauty and, at the same time, has presented the handle to a museum. As, in the book for responses, the handle was not writing.
In Sacred Arhistratiga Michael Mishka's cathedral has met the priest and has expressed it the opinion about arhistratige – «jaky він garny». And then, this time, has directed the energy to a good channel - has outlined coins in a box for donations. For what the attendant has welcomed it St. Michael icon.
Kolomyja
1. Square V_drodzhennja.
2. Museum Pisanki.
3. Pisanki leaders of Ukraine in Museum Pisanki.
4. A beaded icon in in Museum Pisanki.
5. The embroidered picture in Museum Pisanki.
6. St. Arhistratig Michael in the cathedral.
After several days of green tourism in SHeshorah we have gone home. But not on type "stage", and have still decided to grasp a few interesting places on road.
In CHervonograde – already well-known towers and falls. Their survey, in not the day off, is not burdened by presence of hordes neavtoturistov. On descent and lifting on a soil streamer with slow buses you do not meet. And towers with falls are not deprived wild beauty.
1. Towers CHervonograda.
2. Falls Dzhurin.
3. Church in with. Tovste. One more sacred place of a name of St. Arhistratiga Michael.
In Buchache stop for a dinner has been planned. A Buchatsky town hall – object unique. About it confirm authentic sources. But since spring of 2007 it on reconstruction. Therefore has appeared before us in unattractive woods, networks and in a fence environment. In general, the central monument of small town yet does not detain looks also we have gone to search for restaurant. Have met cafe "Ника", but have gone further as on a map, on street Galitska, 70 any restaurant has been noted.
Have found it. "Lock" is called. At first, on an input and it is not clear where restaurant. Instead of the meeting waiter on an input, we were met by spirit of sphere of a public catering of the Soviet period. Have risen on the second floor. An empty hall with not served tables and a platform. The spirit asserted, that conducts us correct by. Have passed further. Through any hozblok, in him the people shinkuet cabbage. There was a closed door further. Hm...
Having become interested in newcomers, to us there was a woman:
- ...
- Kind day, and de here at you restaurant?
- ... That tse він і є.
So... I also have not noticed Restaurant...
- And at you here godujut?
- Well... So.
- І the menu ma¾te?
- The menu it is mute є... On pershe – a borsch. On the friend – відбивна z kartopleju.
- I see. And якісь ovoch і, greens?
- Cabbage.
In general, left, that for us did not wait, but is already it would be desirable strongly. Therefore we have dared to make the order for three... Fortunately, the meal has appeared a normal house cooking. Behind a meal we conducted not so loud conversations how such restaurant can exist during our vague time. At the expense of what and whom keeps afloat. As the final bill as the assortment "menu" has been sounded orally and without the prices was interesting. I have decided, that it is more 50 griven for such "service" I will not give also the auctions here are quite pertinent. The bill did not bear, and has walked most to go to search for our "waitress". It was the occupied ironing. On a paper scrap, without special detailed elaboration the bill has been drawn: 29 grn. 10 copeck
After nonalcoholic, but inspiring a result, a dinner, the town hall in rafters was already looked more interestingly and even was believed, that the magnificent architecture will be no time is restored in former beauty of forms and with all primary sculptures.
1. A Buchatsky town hall.
2. Mater Divine in Buchache.
Time, went in the meantime by the evening, and at us still was arrival in Zarvanitsu is planned. Therefore we is urgent, how much allowed "tankodrom" streets P_dga¾tsko ї and plohonkaja road to Zarvanitsy in further, began to come nearer to final point in our tour.
It would be desirable to stay here longer, but the remote road home still was coming. Also it would be desirable to be at home at least about midnight.
- Zarvanitsa
- Decline over Zarvanitsej. We leave.
We passed Ternopol already in darkness. Then on a route recommended by autotravellers avtouanet, through Zbarazh, Ямпіль, Гриців, Чуднів, Zhitomir. Home profits as wanted, till midnight. And the tour kilometric area has stopped on a mark in 2226 km.