Participants of a trip:
Nikolaev – the author of the report, the sponsor and the navigator. In the car – a hindrance on the right.
nastusja – the co-author of the report, mum and the expert-driver.
Veronica-expecting the dvuhletija a daughter. Hazjajka spacious back sitting.
masja – car Mazda 5.
skusja and the Bear – a plush polecat and a bear, go without visas as Veronkiny friends.
Part zero. Visas.
So, the holiday plan is made almost at once on the termination of a May trip to Croatia. This time we have decided to choose the basic vacation spot the same country which has liked us with proud name Kroejsha, and before it to visit for some days Slovenia unknown to us. Well, and as the motorway in both countries passes through Hungary – that and to us will not be possible to pass this country. The problem – to receive three visas (Slovene, Croatian and Hungarian transit) it appears simple. From Croatia we receive in the beginning of June the guest invitation from acquaintances, across Slovenia – is still easier, our familiar Slovene stays in Kiev. Together with Nastusej it comes to Slovene embassy and in the same place on a place writes the invitation. If we went only to Slovenia – that could pass Hungary transit without the visa (as we go to the European Union), but Croatia in last meanwhile did not take. That is why – for Hungarian it is necessary to open visas of the mentioned countries.
Tricks in reception:
Slovenes – have caused a stir that have asked to make the separate insurance on Veronica.
Croats – were not satisfied with the size of photos on questionnaires (in April have received the visa with similar), and very much were surprised, when we have returned in half an hour with new photos. Probably, do not know about presence in Kiev high-speed photolabs.
Hungarians – as always, turns under embassy. As to hurry up to us especially there was no place (all visas became in advance) in one perfect day the author of the report has arrived under embassy at 9.30. Turn – considerable, write down in the list (I have appeared 47). As it has appeared, start up in embassy meanwhile only those who has received yesterday coupons. Easy I go to be cut (not to forget to receive money for advertising of salon of Tarasyuk in Georgievsk a lane), I come back to 11 in embassy – by turns there is number 21. Even minutes through 15 security guard solemnly declared that already will start up today nobody, and has begun delivery of coupons (which only 20). Despite serial number in turn, I have received the magic coupon with number 18, and have promised to come tomorrow. Has come nastusja and Veronica (hours in 10), in 5 minutes was included into embassy and has handed over passports.
Terms and cost:
The Slovene visa – 35 euros, have made for a week.
The Croatian visa – 29 dollars, have made days for 10.
Hungarian – it is free, do for 5 working days.
Departure is planned for the evening on August, 22nd, returning to Kiev – on September, 7th or 8.
Part 1. Ukraine – Hungary. On August, 22-24nd.
To leave planned on August, 23rd after a dinner (for the morning one important meeting is planned). On August, 22nd in 6 evenings it becomes known, that the meeting was transferred on couple of weeks. In 8 evenings at restaurant «Varenichnaja №1» (the advertising second already a pancake in the report) make decision – to go right now. Things are not collected, we burst vareniki and we go home to be going to.
So, start – on hours 00.00, means, we have left on August, 23rd. Night Kiev – the sated traffic, we fill in a full tank of ours Masi (vareniki Verona does not eat with the Bear), and Skusej already peacefully snore in obnimku on back sitting.
Road across Ukraine to describe it is useless – but the trip in transhee near Lvov (under Zapytivym) certainly impresses.
Nearby 12 we in Beregovo, border pass in Luzhanke. Frontier guards do not deserve kind words – on our border there are 5 cars, we ask to start up without turn (giving reason for the small child) – do not start up. On the Hungarian border of 4 turns till 10-12 cars in everyone, goes very slowly. And again I am refused by three frontier guard, the heat costs the terrible. The fourth (on a free number, for diplomats) I convince, that we need to be started up without turn, I convince in same and tamozhennitsu near to it. But – here an ambush, we have already called in in one of turns so, that will be very inconvenient to taxi in free space of a diplomatic number. We spit, and we wait in the turn even minutes 20. But though the customs officer does not get, a thing as in May does not turn out. Total – hour on both borders. At such heat (nearby 30) is much.
From border to Nirethazy kilometres 70, therefrom to Budapest goes avtoban М3. But! It again for some reason has been opened only on a short site in length of kilometre 4, and further indexes and the road end compel us again rulit through hated polgar (40 km on rural road). Thus on a return way the site avtobana from polgara to Nirethazy is already opened.
On road to Budapest we call in in the checked up restaurant (small town Gyodyollyo), we are full for the ridiculous sum of 15 euros. Budapest meets a rather big stopper on roundabout (line М0), we lose minutes 40. Further – on avtobanu М5 rulim on lake Balaton.
The end of this site of a way (18-00 on local time) – in coastal small town Shiofok, in a current of 30 minutes is found a variant approaching for us – apartments for 30 euros calculated on two families, solemnly we promise not to sleep in both bedrooms? In our disposal – a bedroom with a balcony, kitchen, a bathroom and a drawing room. To Balaton – metres 50, 5 minutes on foot. – it is a lot of other variants, but it is necessary to remember, that the end of August for Balaton – already off season. And in July-beginning of August it is necessary to be guided by 50-60 euros for apartments.
Balaton – here a pool so a pool. Reminds the Odessa estuaries, on foot on a belt it is possible to go metres 300-400. Even tablets stand – the pier to jump in water it is forbidden. But – very pleasant sand on a bottom (to such itself firm, absolutely not opposite silt, it is very similar on silvered), for children – good fortune. In 8 evenings temperature of water about 26 degrees. With pleasure we bathe, and around 10 evenings the concrete thunder-storm – with a heavy wind, lightnings and a terrible downpour in the street is discharged. Krasotishcha!
For the inquiry:
The address of apartments – Gyula, Ferenczi Beni utca 14.
Mistress Horanyi Hajnalka (in English does not speak, German and Hungarian).
Tel: 06/30-9949-432
In Hungary in the end of August – in the afternoon about 30 degrees. Gasoline cost – 285 forints for litre 95 (1 euro – 230 forints). Journey on avtobanu for 4 days (the minimum period of validity of "matrix") – 1500 forints.
Run for it day (Kiev – it is equal – Lvov – Mukachevo – Budapest – SHiofok) 1260 km.
In the morning on August, 24th again a heat, again we bathe, we leave to Slovenia about 11 mornings. To border – hardly there is more than hundred kilometres, to go it is necessary on avtobanu (by the way, already on some sites which in May have been still closed, completed) and partially on rural road, as to Croatia, almost on border with which – turn and 11 km to border with Slovenia.
Part 2. The Alpine delights. On August, 24-27th. Slovenia.
Yes, that border still. One box and one small house, road on 2 strips. Hungarians as always attentively study our passports, stamp, give their sitting opposite in a small house to the second politsaju – well is thought, brakes. It appears, he/she is already Slovene frontier guard, border we pass for 5 minutes.
From border to Maribor about 70 km, from Maribor to Ljubljana (and further for lake Bled where we also we we head) goes avtoban А1, to Ljubljana – 110 km, to Bleda from last – avtoban А2 about 80 km. The most difficult site – from border with Hungary to Maribor, was really spent by 2 hours for it – many cars with waggons, and two strips with frequent turns. And here already on avtobanu to go it turns out quickly, but it is not free, as we have thought having driven first ten in km.
Ljubljana it is gone round on a ring road, on some sites – repair. Air temperature falls approximately on 10 degrees (was 30, became 20), is cloudy. Before most Bledom we will come across a concrete stopper on an autobath (length of kilometre three), it is successfully enough gone round it on rural road (have lost the way only once, and that is not strong). By the way, a map of motorways of Slovenia to us to buy it was not necessary – all this small country has gone in on the maps of Hungary got still in May and especially Croatia. In Blede we – about 6 evenings.
Bled – the basic (short of sea resorts) the tourism centre in Slovenia, and in difference from the sea competitors – is interesting and attractive all year long, in the winter there it is a lot of skiers. Is lake in an environment of mountains and woods, and sets of small small houses (the city of Bled and neighbouring villages). To us "has carried" - have arrived in Bled just during any large conference (there go cars with flashers and trains) and tournament bajdarochnikov. It should mean, what all decent apartments will be occupied, but – in a current of minutes 40 very worthy number is found in a silent place, in in the street with epistolary name Selska to itself? Minihotel on ten numbers, from windows – a spacious Alpine meadow and mountains, number cost – 34 euros. Initially thought to remain in Blede for 3 nights, and in Bohin (about him further) to go by excursion, but number which has liked us was free only for days, that to us has ideally approached (have decided, that for Bleda one day will suffice with a head, and 2 nights which have remained in Slovenia we will spend in area Bohin). The mistress assures, that will find there a place simply enough.
In the evening we go to have supper on lake Bled coast. At fish small restaurant with the spherical prices for Europe (black rizotto with osminogami – 7 euros, in Moscow there is a minimum 20, a fish plate with two fried fishes on a grill and a heap of seafood – 11 euros) with pleasure we spend evening. Highlight Bleda – not only in mountains surrounding it (on one of which the local lock was sheltered), and in located on an islet in the middle of lake a monastery, looks it really very beautifully. But – to see it it is possible and in photos, and here to feel improbable local silence – it is possible only having visited there personally. The impression was such, that ears have put in pawn cotton wool – round you dark mountains, meadows – and full silence …. Slept well. By the way, despite affinity a number of huge lake – any mosquitoes!
And in Slovenia invasion of fans of cars of stamp Hede is simple.
For the inquiry:
Gasoline cost in Slovenia – 1,07 euros for litre 95 (local currency already euros, at local residents accept also Slovene tolary which were in a turn till March, 1st of this year). Journey on avtobanu from Maribor to Bleda – 7 euros.
Run for it day (SHiofok – Maribor – Ljubljana - Bled) 450 km.
The address of apartments – Bled, Selska 9.
www.kocijancic.sloveniaholidays.com
jaka.kocijancic@email.si
Tel: +386(0) 45743 543
In the morning we climb up height of the local lock – a kind on lake and neighbouring mountains therefrom are improbably beautiful. We do successful enough shots, by the car we travel about round lake (that by the way on some roads under the lock is impossible, but we have not noticed in time a sign. Well still that politsaev have not met), all is still silent and quiet. Around 11 mornings we collect things, and we go in Bohin.
Time has come to show maps – that it for Bohin such. This name of lake which on size does not concede to lake in Blede (Bledsky lake, sounds that? And here also Bohinsky, it is good that though not Buhinsky?) And on beauty – perhaps, surpasses it repeatedly. In the middle of this lake there is no islet with a monastery, but the very tall Alpes round it, an improbable transparency water and pines around do this place by easier sample of the protogenic and untouched nature. There is it of all in 22 kilometres from Bleda, and from it there are basic pedestrian routes on well-known Triglavsky (by name the highest mountains of Slovenia) to reserve. Directly on the bank of lake – village the Fish Manhole, but very small, decent apartments all are occupied. We stop not in him, and in a small village Is old Fuzhina, it is equal 200 metres from predudyshchego, and 10 minutes on foot on lake coast. Number in a typical Alpine chalet costs to us only 28 euros a day, plus the tourist tax – 1 euro from the person. In the house there lives madly peace sheep-dog who can be carried for ears – and kisja-mum grown fond to Veronica will not react in any way, and also (the cat has brought before our arrival of three kittens which to Verona have solemnly taken out in a basket. To delights there was no limit!).
While happy women silently sleep, I go to bathe in lake (in Blede such desire was not – and not only at me, any precedent did not observe). Air temperature – degrees 26, water – about 22 degrees, sometimes you feel on yourself cold keys of any local springs – uh! Over lake and a nearby meadow, paraglider pilots with might and main soar, it is possible to jump and do some flying with someone from them in a tandem (the pleasure costs 75 or 90 euros, depending on mountain height, bring up on mountain on account of the price).
For the sake of interest have gone by the car on mountain top, whence actually paraglider pilots go to the, thanks God – not last flight. The road there – that still a safari, a mountain streamer and narrow enough road without the uniform index, and a burning bulb showing, that the car will soon not go (we by naivety thought, that we go to look local falls which has appeared in general in other place). Plus of minutes 15 was necessary protopat on a grief – at first downwards, and back – understand, upwards. When on shoulders thus sits two-year-old Veronka, at once you are filled with pleasure, that it is a lot of superfluous calories this day will not be.
From mountain the nice kind on lake – plus the mountain air rich with oxygen opens. Despite its abundance, attempt of the local waitress to shortchange me for one and a half euros (after returning from mountain) has appeared ineffectual.
In the evening the concert of a Slovene national orchestra is observable on the local area (which simply usual bed). Well, podudeli in pipes of hour or so – and ladushki, but other concert proceeds in kilometre from our house. As it has appeared, on August, 25th – a holiday of sports club Old Fuzhiny, and only time in a year local residents afford, we will tell so, to make a noise. It very well, but to listen in 10 evenings in dupel drunk accordion player (and you present what acoustics in the mountain village, especially strengthened electrocolumns) becomes for me too big test. As a result – owners conceding to my pressure two times call to owners of the house which have sheltered sportsmen – those do not do more silently. I insist to call police – in village politsaev is not present, a post already in Blede. Also that you think – the policeman comes, and forces fighters to stop in 11 evenings the kamarilju. And that you wanted – I have generally arrived to have a rest to silent mountain Slovenia, to enjoy the Alpine silence, instead of to listen to drunk cries. Thus even before arrival politsaja I was not too lazy to descend to sportsmen (the wife worried, what I will return injured, but not that have attacked?) And it is polite to ask to listen them to requests of neighbours. But the drunk accordion player of years 60 was not to appease any more – only the official power?. Here so has spoilt to people a holiday, will know now, what on August, 25th me to invite it is not necessary? Next day we go to look at those falls (to admit, the show does not impress, in difference from 15-minute lifting uphill, with convenient steps, but from this not less high), actively we bathe in the lake, we do photos shaking ourselves (who will see at club meetings – I think, too it will be impressed). By the way, not only that water in lake transparent – there also fishes simply nemerjanno, and nepuganaja it it is absolute. I dived in swimming points, and it is literally for fins touched local living creatures – think, is far they then departured from a fright? Floundered directly in metre from coast.
Kilometres in 10 from lake there is local "ball" - mountain small river, silent and deep enough, and over it – neskolkometrovaja a board, like a tower for diving. The height to water – metres 5 is, not less, water completely transparent, and decent depth, therefore accidents are practically excluded. But, think, knees do not shiver, when reach the end of a board and understand, what not having jumped risk to lose the reputation of "brave"?? It is good, that I not one was such "daredevil" - when we have arrived into place, there already the family of Dutches with might and main froliced. Well and I in cold (brrr) vodichku have made pair of jumps. For now first time jumped, along road passed a local Volkswagen-retro club. What only cars there were not? Basically – the old bugs altered sometimes in similarity of go-cart racings, carriages and even trailers with a caravan on the trailer? On a photo they at us zapechtleny, fans of antiques we ask to address. Children decently walked – was them on our supervision of cars 50, it is not less. Here it is a club meeting!
Evening has met us the Alpine silence – it is visible, local sportsmen have gone to treat the moral traumas for an unfortunate night party somewhere, where the night life rages (if in Slovenia certainly there is such place?). We sleep easy, morning meets us a habitual mountain fog which as practice shows, in 10 mornings already passes. But we have time to make some entertaining photos – including lake in a fog. We thank owners, we are loaded in the car – we are waited by Croatia. More correctly, at first we are waited by a Slovene aquapark «Terms CHatezh», located it is literally in 10 kilometres from the Croatian border, and praised by our friends helping us in reception of the invitation from Croats. We go ljapatsja.
From Bohinja to CHatezha – hardly more than 250 kilometres, almost all on avtobanu – three sites of repaired road on 6-11 km. Again we pay 7 euros (exactly?), around 12 hours we come into an aquapark. An input at week-day from the adult 9 euros (though for all day). In the street – an order of 30 degrees that is necessary for bathing.
Perhaps I will create not the best advertising to an aquapark in CHatezhe – but on my supervision this place only for family rest, and it is more for children. For them – probably 15 hills of different size, up to most karapuzov, for adults – literally two. Is certainly to steam of pleasant pools with warm and not so water, there is a pool with waves - but the soul thirsted active entertainment – and I have not received it. In difference from Veronica who "was simply dragged" from this institution, the child could not be pulled out from water. On assurances of the wife (I am not assured, but I can not prove), the trip to an aquapark was preceded by a 3-day lock of Verona, and here warm water has made the artful business … in general, I only and went for Veronica, catching understand that from water? It was a shame and is very ridiculous, good that especially nobody has noticed. Well, though to a daughter pleasure delivered. At 14-00 we drive on border. Slovene frontier guards – the first who has asked Nastusju to show a driving licence? Border have passed for 5 minutes, now our way - on avtobanu to Karlovac.
For the inquiry:
Apartments near Bohinja – settlement It is old Fuzhina 66.
m.znidar@siol.net
Tel: +386(0) 4 5724-210
Owners Martin and Maria.
Part 3. Compatriots and we. Croatia. On August, 27th-30.
What you have driven on territory of Croatia, becomes clear at once – ask to pay journey on avtobanu in kunah (but if they are not present – that is possible and in euro, nobody will condemn?) . In an hour we reach Karlovac, still an hour – and we on Plitvitsky lakes literally. Here we already knew where we go – even have received sms-ku from Maxim (it Totti) which have met on the Internet in the course of discussion of the plan of a trip (at the Forum of fans of Croatia) in the morning. It has removed apartments in Rakovitse (11 km to lakes), judging by the description – quite decent, the price (30 euros) too quite arranges. We ask to reserve room both for us, and on arrival we are easy installed in rather decent apartments from a good bathroom (that for Veronica – simply paradise, especially after an aquapark – it was pleasant ljapatsja in warm water). The mistress – Marjana, calls at once our arrangement, having allowed to wash things in the washing machine, treats with tea and coffee – very pleasant woman. Kitchen in the house the general, but rather spacious, plus – the house is constructed one year ago, furniture and technics the new. One more plus – the house costs not directly near road (enough noisy), and metres in 30 from it, therefore noise hindrances from passing cars practically is not observed. Our number on the ground floor with small terraskoj, at our fellow citizens (Maxim, Belief and Ira (last 7,5 years, with Veronica at once finds common language) on the second, and too is where to sit on fresh air. But it then for now they investigate Plitvitsky lakes. For us visiting of this reserve not in a novelty, it is therefore had slowly a rest, and approximately around 17 we enter on territory of lakes – this time through Ulaz 1. To describe Plitvitsky lakes it is useless – come and look, it is words to pass difficult too. Words «turquoise water» well can tell? And when you in «a mode of real time» go on coast, and huge big fishes frowningly look at you from water (some centimetres 50 at length, and thick that that marmot from the Yalta zoo) which very much wish to eat (I hope, what not tourists?) …. And here still falls around …. Everything, is more than word about lakes. An input – still 110 kun.
In the evening we get acquainted with kievljanami, we drink taken by me from a neighbouring country Slovene wine, we enjoy warm and fresh air. The history of children how they passed the Croatian border (frontier guards voobshe has made laugh was not on a post, and customs officers have told it to pass, therefore Maxim with a family have appeared in Croatia without stamps about entrance to passports. Yes, that still vigilance?. Under the initiative Maxim has on foot returned on border and almost force has forced politsaja to fix nevertheless their arrival in the country of lakes and mountains.
In the morning we wait departure at coast, at children apartments only since August, 31st are reserved in Dubrovnik, therefore our plans to stay the night for 3 days in area Voditse, and then together rulit to Dubrovnik, ideally coincide with their wishes.
For the inquiry:
Mistress Marjana Zhupan (it not an abusive surname on what it will be possible to draw a conclusion in the end of our report ;-)), Rakovica 35.
www.sobe-zupan.com
marijana.zupan@t-com.hr
Tel: 047/784-057
Gasoline cost in Croatia – 7,65 – 7,93 kuny for litre 95 (1 euro = 7,3 kun). Journey on avtobanu from border to Karlovac – 20 kun.
Run for it day (Bled – CHatezh – Zagreb – Karlovac - Rakovitsa) 480 km.
In the morning on August, 28th we leave in Voditse, it is primary for itself have solved – we will lodge not in the city, and in one of neighbouring villages (or as Croats – appartmentskih naseljah speak). On a map such 2, to one of them is Tribun. Well, we will look. The road from Plitvitsky lakes at coast passes through mountain passes, beautiful enough and grasping. It is possible to jump out certainly on avtoban – but there and kinds not those, and superfluous money is spent. Therefore – we go on road (), it passes along reserve of Krk (our plans include also its visiting hardly pogodja), and deduces us directly on Voditse. In Tribun we get very quickly, the first place examined by us very much is pleasant to me (a picturesque concrete beach in a silent sea gulf, around rough vegetation from pines), but such beach does not approach children. The seas go lengthways – and there and then finds an excellent place for bathing from is small to is great – a small and large pebble, water – transparent and pure, as however and everywhere in Croatia. From intention to lodge in apartments near a beach (it is direct on a coastal line) me quickly dissuade – nearby an open bar in which on all music plays court till the night, operatively enough we find apartments on «the second line» - to the sea of 50 metres. The owner so was delighted to settlement possibility at once two Ukrainian families for 3 nights that has given us the apartments literally nasharu. Ours – for 25 euros a bedroom, a bathroom, kitchen from a drawing room and a balcony, at Maxim and its girls – two bedrooms with separate bathrooms, the big drawing room with kitchen, and the pleasant terrace, in general costs 45 euros, but asks the same 25? Children prove very nobly, and 30 euros a day pay to it.
At once I will tell – have not regretted, that have lodged in this place. Very silently (the most important thing – in the evenings when it would be desirable to sleep, and ashore the people test opposite feelings), cosy, parking lots of two cars – fill up, from windows – a kind on the old city of Tribunja (as tenderly speak townspeople – ours a little misto). Well it is direct ridna a speech.
The sea warm enough (degrees 25), but kisnut on a beach twenty-four hours straight would not be desirable. The trip plan on Kornaty (reserve from a number of sea islands), because of duration of a sea trip (to children it is inconvenient, on a boat from 10 mornings almost till 5 evenings) disappears also, cost (270-300 kun) too does not please. Running forward – I will tell, that nevertheless my luck has probably rendered us considerable service. On August, 30th on one of these islands there was a fire at which suppression 8 persons were lost, in Croatia the national mourning has been declared. Thanks God, that we there were not – initially we discussed this day for a trip. But – about sad it is more words. Our leisure during residing in Tribuni has appeared rather sated. In the first put the evening trip in SHibenik has taken place (as in him we already were earlier I will not sing of dithyrambs to this pleasant small town – did it already in other report) during which time we have pleasantly sat at restaurant directly near a magnificent cathedral of a name of Sacred Jacob. We Came back home around 10 evenings, and have casually dropped in on quay Voditse – ogo, anything to itself here the night life rages! Not less tourists, than in Yalta during a season – though the quay is a little bit less. And here than that here it is much more – so it is yachts. Such quantity of means of transportation on water should be observed earlier only in Zadar.
On August, 29th we go to the reserve of Krk mentioned earlier, in it some arrivals – we choose the most distant, Roshski slap (it is named by name falls). Last three kilometres of road are not asphalted (probably, unique such site to all Croatia?) And besides pass on mountain pass – in general our machines have reached to destination such pure …. The idea consisted in that with it to float by the ship in the Skradinsky beech, but – the ships for some reason floated therefrom only upwards on a canyon of the river of Krk, that to us has not approached. So – having taken a walk a half-hour on local small vodopadikam, we jump on the steel horses, and rulim on the Skradinsky beech thus (entrance under name Lozovats). On road we do a hook in 10 kilometres to photograph from above a Franciscan monastery on island Visovats. It very much reminds a monastery on lake Bled, and at desire to it it would be possible to swim by a boat or a boat someone from local residents. But – judging by that we see, all boats are already chartered by someone and are near island – now to us there only by swimming, we prefer cars and – road on Lozovats.
Cascades of falls on the Skradinsky beech to describe as it is hopeless, as well as Plitvitsky lakes. Here only – this time water so warm, that in it under the first (and the strongest falls) floats tens five tourists. We join, water though also fresh, but same transparent as in Adriactic Sea. Here only is warmer than degree on three.
Well and it is quite clear, that being in 70 kilometres from Trogira, we simply should devote day to a trip to this small town with 4000-year-old history. To the people in Trogire this time was much more, than in May, but discomfort from it all the same it was not felt. It was difficult to park only – but have found a good parking already behind the bridge from the Old city, it is direct on quay for 10 kun without time limit (under the Old city wanted 15 kun at an o'clock). Trogir too I will not describe (did it in the report on a May trip) – I will recommend only to fans of fish dishes not to pass local fish small restaurants. On my personal flavouring supervision – here fish and squids on a grill prepare is most tasty. Well, and the quantity of yachts on quay (one of them well very much reminded hvalenuju Abramovich's yacht) too impressed.
It was pleasant to us and walk on an old city in the Tribune – it tiny and very cosy, and from above on a hill – the small church surrounded with the Croatian pines, silence, salty sea air, and a pacification …
On August, 31st since morning we thank the owner for hospitality, unexpectedly we receive as a gift on a bottle of the house wine, happy we go to Dubrovnik.
For the inquiry:
Owner Dragan Jabuka (and it not an abusive surname, but on russki I simply cannot write it?), Tribunj, put Vodica 6.
dajabuka@inet.hr
Tel: 00385(0) 91 763 0358
Input on territory of Krk – 80 kun from the person.
Run for three days (Tribun – SHibenik – Voditse – Krk – Trogir - Tribun) 320 km.
Part 4. Dubrovnichesky zhupanie. On August, 31st - on September, 4th.
ZHupa – in Croatia an especial word. ZHupanie is like our areas (province), and it is direct near Dubrovnik there is a small town under name ZHupa Dubrovnichka?. In him and the hotel with the same name is – and is called, hotel Zhupa. It not wanted to live somehow in him – but it I have run forward.
At our new acquaintances number in Dubrovnik has been reserved from Kiev, we followed the gold rule – not to reserve anything in advance, to choose a place for a lodging for the night osoznanno. Initially there was a plan to stop in two places – Drvenike (it is kilometres 20 from Makarski towards Dubrovnik), and Trsteno (11 kilometres to Dubrovnik), but still in Tribuni have made the decision – we go as it is possible more close to Dubrovnik, and there already on a situation we solve where to lodge. We will look, what conditions wait Maxim and his family, can we will stop near to them, and can we will wave aside TSavtata (these are 16 km already beyond Dubrovnik) – there under descriptions very good beaches.
Running forward, I will express our personal opinion. To reserve apartments in Croatia (especially in Dubrovnik), doing thus a serious advance payment – IMHO very risky. The first – not the fact, that having received an advance payment owners of apartments will send you the invitation (children have faced such strange justification from owners, that a pier at invitation registration in a local police force to write the receipt, that the owner guarantees the real estate stay of the visitor in the country. In my opinion simply ridiculous excuse, considering what high quantity of inhabitants of the CIS countries goes to Croatia under invitations). Not having on hands the invitation to do the visa it is much more difficult (the Ukrainian tour agencies for registration of the Croatian visa take a fantastic sum – 200 dollars from the person).
The second – not the fact, that apartments will like you under all factors. For example, in them all can be successful inside and good furniture, and here are located, for example, on a hill, whence to a beach of 10 minutes downwards on a ladder (and accordingly 20 minutes upwards, especially to like those who will arrive with the child) and if you decide to go on a beach by the car – that it can take away for a wrong parking in police and it is necessary to pay 600 kun to return the means of transportation). And near apartments at all the fact that there will be a good parking lot. One more problem can arise at owners of cars with the big dimensions – in some places by such car to drive not really, I then passing on small pyzhike have understood, washing masja here will not drive.
Well and the third – if you have chosen for yourselves apartments «on a course» optimum variant as for us – to tell, that lodge for 3 nights (for example) but if weather is pleasant also will be good – that remain still. In apartments which surrender such to "unorganized tourists», as a rule bron for months beforehand is absent, and you receive full freedom of actions on a case of the worsened weather (or it is simple if will bother to sit on one place). And to pay it is desirable on departure (differently anybody will not return money to you even if having stayed 5 days from 10 planned you want to move for any reasons). However, it is our personal remarks – it will be useful for probably someone, and someone will choose other way and will reserve beforehand and for a long time.
But I have distracted – so, we start from Tribunja to Dubrovnik. Having bathed at last on the beach which has liked me under pines, we leave around 11 mornings. Weather varies «as for us» - instead of the sun and heats in 30 degrees in the sky becomes cloudy, that is very convenient for a distant trip. And though from Tribunja to Dubrovnik all order of 300 km, but this road difficult enough. The seas decide to drive to Split on avtobanu, and therefrom already on mountain road (Е65, it is expensive 8), going lengthways. On such we already had to go in May (from Rijeka to Zadar), and experience prompts – to overcast to go much easier.
Judging by a map bought by us in May, avtoban after Split comes to an end, but we are waited by pleasant unexpectedness – the site avtobana from Split to Dubrovnik, kilometres 35 is already opened. Therefrom on mountain pass we leave already on the eighth line, a kind on mountains and the sea – as always, amazing. On a way it is passed Drvenik (basically, there is very successful place for silent rest but to stop it is necessary not in centre Drvenika, whence leave ferries, and pair of kilometres further – there beaches it is better. We pass this place, we are bought up by fruit in a river Neretva valley (all I advise – there are even first tangerines, madly tasty. About melons and grapes I am silent), and we stop to have dinner at restaurant "Adriactic Sea" for pair kilometres to border with Bosnia. The small fish as always is good, and is quite inexpensive. Border with Bosnia – as many also spoke, one name. Two posts on which you nobody brakes – and kilometres 8 you go on territory of other country. But here we already again in Croatia, have reached and to Trsteno. It was not pleasant, that beaches far enough from houses (it is final, houses stand in a grief), we do not brake and we go to Dubrovnik. At entrance to this well-known city impresses the huge chain bridge in length of metres 600, and also standing in port huge kruiznye liners. And here the city for some reason reminds us a part of Budapest (probably because of high hilliness), only here in him it is much less than sights, than in capital of Hungary. One only Old hailstones – but about him later. While – on hours 17. In 5 minutes of driving across Dubrovnik it becomes clear – to live in him to us it will not want. Too it will remind a civilisation, and the sea kind at all does not impress. We leave Maxim, Belief and Irishku in their apartments on a hill, we go for Dubrovnik.
Place it is found in 11 kilometres from Dubrovnik – small settlement with lovely Ukrainian hearing name Mlini (by the way, it is named in honour of mills, instead of fritters), with excellent beaches. In a current of 15 minutes we find a room (not apartments, in it there is no kitchen) almost on seacoast, but in silent enough place, and the right of use of master's kitchen it is received instantly. Owner Vlaho (as by the way call also sacred – the patron of Dubrovnik) – full contrast predudyshchemu Draganu. That is high, quiet, little bit sad, this - small, brisk and clockwork, very talkative. The general at them except a nationality – at everyone three children, but at Vlaho all three – sons (at Dragana there were 2 girls and absolutely the little boy) therefore it carries Veronica on hands and it is ready for it on all. Number price – 33 euros for a night.
Approximately in 8 evenings we go to bathe in the sea – what it all the same pleasure. Water – degrees 26, transparent even in evening twilight.
Directly under our windows – the organised water stadium, for game in water polo. To us has carried – have arrived just before game by a local command with any champions of Europe, we support local, but champions undress them under a nut. But exotic?. In the morning on September, 1st we go to Dubrovnik – to walk on Old hailstones. The heat – 31 degree, does this walk enough uneasy. Plus – a large quantity of tourists which break Old hailstones from everywhere – including with kruiznyh steam-ships. Therefore such impression, as we will tell in Trogire (spirit of olden time) to receive it is impossible – but architecture it is examined with pleasure. Walk on fortifications (50 kun from the person) – business hlopotnoe, especially in a heat but where to disappear …
The verdict is that – it is necessary to go to Dubrovnik not later than April, and not earlier than October then and on the Old City it will be easier to take a walk And – this walk on days-two, it is more in a city there is nothing to do basically.
But – is where to have a rest in Mlinjah? Crystal cleanliness sea water, a small pebble and almost sand like all – Veronica again for ears will not drag from a beach.
On September, 2nd have decided to go in Korchulu, capital of the island with the same name. Originally thought of a trip there on the ferry, but from Dubrovnik it has appeared long and expensively (450 kun from the person), and to come back already in Drvenik it would not be desirable. But – on Korchulu from peninsula Peleshats ferry goes only 15 minutes (from Orebicha), and there is it only 12 kun from the person in one party, and to go there from Dubrovnik – only 110 kilometres. And starting up the most part of road before Small Groan (turn on Peleshats) it is necessary to go nebystro, but on most Peleshatse (by the way, the centre of the Croatian winemaking) we are dispersed quite successfully. How result – at 12-35 we park in Orebiche (once – second-large after Rijeka port at the Croatian coast), and we learn, what the ferry sails on Korchulu each hour, but is equal 30 minutes? It doesn't matter – we wait till 13-30, and in 10 minutes the tiny small town enclosed with a fortification is observable. Here where that spirit of olden time of which has not sufficed us in Dubrovnik with might and main soars. Let's tell at once – if in the last it is possible to walk about days-two, in Korchule – hour-two? But you will spend this time without presence of people (well, we we will tell more precisely – them few), in an environment of ancient walls, houses, and the tiny small streets leaving to the sea. As weather was excellent (the sun, 30 degrees) I have decided to sunbathe and a T-short has left in the car in Orebiche. What my surprise when the man with a naked torso have refused to serve in two met by us on the way pizzerias was. Means, tens sunbathing on each Croatian beach of ladies them do not confuse top loess, and I without a T-short – yes?! Notice, it is a question not of restaurant in the centre of the big city? I was have thought, what in this small town Puritan customs – but here happiness reign, in the third pizzeria the muzhik without a T-short, here it freedom eats? Certainly, here and me anybody did not set questions. On a return way the fortification on a grief in Groan has impressed, in the same small town it is possible to buy and the diversified oysters. But to us this dish not to liking – in difference from a small fish on a grill with which with pleasure we eat in the Old city of Dubrovnik, is direct near the well-known street of the Parade-ground. By the way, this first place in which to us have submitted the requested green tea – usually instead of green brought black or even the fruit.
We have gone and in TSavtat (together with our Kiev friends) – too tiny small town kilometres in 8 from Mlini, basically – anything especial, the same restaurants on seacoast, and pleasant road round island on which underside blow such strong a wind that seems – has got to the storm centre. This day in TSavtate obviously there were noisy weddings as when we came back back columns of cars from Dubrovnik, going in ancient Epidavr (met simply antique name TSavtata). In general, quite it was pleasant to us in Mlinjah, were late there per day more – basically for the sake of relaksa, bathings in the sea. By the way, observed also local fires – kilometres in 3 from Mlini in mountains something burnt (one month ago fires were simply disaster of Croatia), and to our beach the plane constantly arrived – had a seat in the sea metres in 300 from us to refuel water. And here – that day, farewells to Croatia, has come on September, 4th. In plans there was one more night (somewhere around Split), but somehow so has bothered to display and put things that have decided to go without a stop to Hungary, on night – and to Debrecen. This decision was promoted also by weather – has started to become cold, clouds approached, and towards the end of evening has gone prolivnjak. Under such weather near the sea it would not be desirable to remain. We give hospitable Vlaho (working as it has appeared the postman) a bottle of vodka nemiroff with pepper, we are going to, approximately in 11 we leave from Mlini.
For the inquiry:
The owner of apartments Vlaho Tomash, wife Daniela (she understands English is better, it – Russian languages).
Mlini, Dragiceva 2
House_daniela@hotmail.com
Tel: +385(0) 20-485648
Part 5. Last. Road home.
To Split from Dubrovnik – 204 kilometres, all them is overcome on mountain road. Mentions on a way deserve – a river Neretva valley (there we again stinted fruit, and also a house olive oil), Drvenik (ate at restaurant while in most Drvenike and in radius of kilometres 30 was not an electricity – because of building avtobana. But a small fish to us have made on wooden coals, it was very tasty), Omish (a smart canyon of small river Tsetina there it is necessary to stop and drive on small lodochkah). Over Split costs a smoke which would prevent photographing process (besides «our hindrance on the right or the guide» has blundered and has passed turn on the centre of Split, and having appeared in Soline it would not be desirable to be developed and go back any more) therefore in a city we do not stop – we head for small town the Blue, whence is expensive №1 will bring us through Plitvitse to Karlovac. Passing the Blue, the reason smokes becomes clear – over Split too there are fires.
By the way, here it is distinctly felt on itself the cold snap which has come from Europe. If still yesterday in Dubrovnik was +29, and in the morning humane +26, here already only 10 degrees. Further – it is better, in mountains there is a rain and temperature of only 5 degrees of heat. Sitting in the car, it certainly you do not feel, you are simply terrified looking on the onboard computer.
Plitvitse it is passed around 8 evenings, we stop to have supper at perfect small restaurant "Phoenix" - at entrance in Slun, on the right party how to go to Karlovac. In comparison with coast, the prices simply acceptable – a small fish only 30 kun for a portion, a lamb on a grill – and that only 180 kun for a kilogramme (a small fish at coast – 280-320 kun for 1 kg). With pleasure it is tasted food, through kilometres of 50 us already waits avtoban. On border Croatia – Hungary it is come minutes in 15 first nights, specially – that the stamp of entrance to Hungary was already on September, 5th (the transit visa of all for 2 days twice, and to us still to spend the night in Де6рецене). Croatian pograntsy at all do not stamp the passport – simply speak, to vidzhenija!
On Hungarian avtobanu to go at night not difficult, but this rain, an infection …
Budapest is passed for half an hour – to be dispersed on roundabout on such weather it is impossible.
In Debrecen we in 8 mornings. This unique place, in which I zerezerviroval number (because already knew a good place, has called from Croatia to the secretary on job and has asked to make for me booking) – boarding house Nadix, near to an aquapark. Number good, from the big bathroom in which Veronica with pleasure laps one and a half hour on end, we sleep off. Here an ambush – the aquapark this week is closed, something repair, but on such weather – it can and it is not terrible. But with pleasure we eat at restaurant "Вигадо" near an aquapark – smart hot dishes, cost ridiculous – 7-8 euros for a huge plate of hot fish or a duck. I advise to all!
Final jerk – in 5.30 mornings on September, 6th is started from Debrecen to Kiev. And here I make the most serious mistake during our trip – at once at departure on avtoban М35 from Debrecen there is a turn on short road on Nirethazu, but I am am confused with absence on a traffic sign of any indexes about it (other number of road, and a way on Debrecen-Josca is written absolutely). However it is that turn – another simply is not present. I console myself and the wife in that we will drive on avtobanu to М3, and therefrom a straight line avtoban on Nirethazu. But far from it – departure with М35 on М3 only towards Budapest, on Nirethazu turn is not present. It is necessary on idiotski to be developed in area Polgara and not to go on grown hateful road from this small town, to taxi on avtoban М3 aside Nirethazy country roads (we lose a minimum of a way of 60 km and nearby to hour of driving).
On border in Beregovo it is come to 8 mornings on local time – in Ukraine 9. On border of anybody – it is passable it for 5 minutes, and here we again in the homeland.
From Beregovo to Lvov weather same awful as in Hungary, begins raspogozhivatsja further, and here in area Exactly already the sun and 25 degrees of heat. On pleasures have managed to slip roundabout around Exactly, but have opened for itself so-called «small roundabout» - the road conducts on most Exactly, but on a private sector, at us – completely empty, the city is passed minutes for 10.
To Kiev it is driven at 20-00, the city meets us stoppers on the Left coast. Well, hi, the Native land!
Run from Dubrovnik to Debrecen – 1200 km. The fare on avtobanu in Croatia (from Karlovac to border with Hungary) – 55 kun, a payment for avtoban in Hungary is invariable – 1500 forints.
Boarding house Nadix – Debrecen, Besseney Utca 6.
http://www.nadixpanzio.hu/index.php
Numbers from 40 to 64 euros.
Run from Debrecen to Kiev – 950 km.
The general run for a trip – 5 580 km.
The gasoline expense – 8,1 l on 100 km, at the engine 1,8.
Expenses for a trip – 2400 dollars.
200 dollars – visas, the insurance.
600 dollars – residing.
550 dollars – gasoline.
350 dollars – entrance tickets and excursions.
700 dollars – meal and souvenirs.
Some prices in Croatia:
Grapes – 15-20 kun for kg.
Water-melons – 4 kuny for kg.
Melons – 5-10 kun for kg.
Peaches – 12-15 kun for kg.
Tangerines – 15 kun for kg.
Olive oil (house) – 60 kun for litre.