PROLOGUE
So, having returned from round on cities, vesjam and to locks of the Western and Zakarpatye Ukraine has felt sharp requirement to write to steam of tens lines about this event with some photoillustrations.
Earlier I did not think at all, that in Ukraine there are so much locks and their ruins. Knew Hotin, Kamenets, Mukachevo, Uzhgorod and Lutsky locks. Has heard something about the Gold horseshoe. And only. And it has appeared, that locks and their ruins in Ukraine if not hundreds, tens precisely. In their one Ternopol area ten three are.
And here, having armed with data about sights in all planned points of our visiting – it has turned out the daddy of pages on 70, lists of hotels, motels and places of a food which are recommended to visiting for ways of our route (the round schedule too, by the way, has been rather strictly worked), we have set out.
We went on SHevrole Aveo. And from three us only Masha is able to drive, and her husband Sanja and I played a role of navigators. At first very successfully with it Sanja and consulted, but somewhere beyond Lvov, after the next rough quarrel between them it is direct at a brisk crossroads about where exactly we should go, to me the rank of the younger navigator and the registrar (the keeper of maps) has been solemnly appropriated. Maps by which we were reserved, would suffice on a small regiment – not including maps of all Western Ukraine, we had maps of all areas on which we passed, and all regional centres of the Western Ukraine.
By the way! Very interesting fact. Probably, all motorists about him know for a long time, but we - for the first time. Such impression, that signs about distance to the nearest large cities are put by two different organisations. You go, you go, happened, you see, to Lvov, for example, 135 km. Already close, you think. Through km heels again a sign – to Lvov – 140 km!!!!! How, having driven some km after 135, we receive more than was?? We like, went not back, and especially forward!!! And happened, that such different signs stand in general in 100 metres from each other, but in these of 100 METERS vlazit to ten KILOMETERS. At first we were surprised, and have then got used to consider plus-minus of 10 km.
It was the PREAMBLE. And now will begin ambula.
JAIL
The Jail was first our stop. To it anything remarkable was not. We have arrived to the Jail about six evenings and the lock already was, like, is closed, but, having talked to the watchman (very sincere muzhik of years 60) all of us have passed in inside. The lock itself small, but very cosy. On enough simpatishnom a court yard there was an operating cathedral. Walls, a tower (dilapidated) any there knjazhny, an entrance tower were very well saved. On an entrance tower there is even a bell and the watchman, in strict confidence, has allowed us to rise there. Such impression was, that on this tower of last years edak 40 nobody rose – dust, a dust, a scratch of steps. I personally felt any selector of treasures from novels poljakova.
On a dilapidated tower any miracle there were two old guns walled in loopholes and looking at the Rovnensky atomic power station which very well it was visible from the lock.
It was the first lock on our way and we have been pleasantly surprised by its good condition. We observed Ostrozhsky academy in transit and anything remarkable in it was not. The small town too has very much liked me – pure, cosy, silent. Further we have gone to Lutsk where planned to spend the night. Roads to Exactly were normal, and here after exactly equal roads have ended. Such potholes were – uzhos simply!
LUTSK
Have arrived to Lutsk, have gone to hotel "Лучесск" - a typical Soviet building of places on 300, but windows it was shone from force five. Conditions were awful, therefore we have gone in "Trade-union" - and know, not bad there live trade unions - such good there was a hotel – under the same prices, as "Luchessk", by the way.
In the morning we have gone in lutsky lock Ljubarta. The beautiful lock – all walls is, two towers restored and more one is restored. Has carried to us, that we have come early – tourists was the person five, except us. Too very beautiful lock, is well restored. In a court yard, the truth, any excavation and civil work because of what some impression zahlamlennosti and pylnosti is made are spent. But zamkovye walls are everything, with new parapets and completely restored teeth, therefore and the sensation of integrity and completeness is created. In a unique open tower of the lock there is very beautiful exhibition of bells. Probably, not less their hundreds there it is put. That me has surprised in Lutsk so this considerable quantity of sectarian churches, and almost half of their visitors there were young girls. Really in it to be engaged there is nothing more!? And here to eat in the morning in Lutsk there was no place also we, having supported suharikami, have gone further in Dubno.
DUBNO
Dubno associates with «Tarasom Potatoes». But the lock has only well enough saved walls and an entrance tower (restored). Inside there is only what that palats were, but empty and is obvious dolgosrochno restored and nothing remarkable, and any casemate deep enough, but too anything especially interesting – so – it to be noted only. On two curtains new small turrets, fortifikatsionnogo values obviously not having, but a giving symmetric and graceful kind to the lock are constructed. So the lock in itself is interesting basically by a kind from the outside.
pochaev
A little disappointed, but had breakfast, we have gone in pochaev. It was vpechatljajushche, I to you will tell!! Earlier we there did not happen, but the monastery costs on a hill and it it is visible from apart sparkling baths, therefore to be lost is impossible. If both in a jail, and in Lutsk, and in Dubno tourists there were units in pochaeve them already there were crowds, and mainly Poles. To all women necessarily give out a piece of black mother instead of a skirt.
It was very beautiful in pochaeve. Though I and the atheist convinced, very much was pleasant to me. All sparkles, all is very majestic also very purely and is new – it is visible, that keep order there very much and very much. And what kinds open from parapets!! The ordinary plain, but all the same spirit grasps from open spaces! And vetrjugan there too give the god! At me from one woman a scarf has broken and has carried away a wind. We have bought there sacred water, have sprinkled the car and, dawned by good spirit, have gone further.
podgortsy
One of points of the Gold horseshoe is the lock in podgortsah. There removed weight of films, but it is not recollected anything. The lock is located near village and to it the beautiful avenue, in which end as in the tunnel, the lock is seen conducts. We approach, all such in expectation of beauty. The avenue comes to an end and we see, that on each side the lock there are woods, in a court yard (very small) heaps of stones, sand, a concrete mixer. Everything, that is necessary to scare away visitors. The lock consists from some floors, but start up only in one-two rooms on the first and as much on the second floor. And everywhere a smell of a mould, dampness, sensation of ruin. More shortly – kyshmar! That there is from the Gold horseshoe, to mind not rastjazhimo. Though earlier when there there were owners, it was for certain very beautiful.
But at the Union there there was a sanatorium for tuberkuleznikov! What idiot from medicine has decided, that tuberkulezniki will recover in the stone building which has become permeated with the smell of a mould and dampness, with narrow windows without sunlight enough – too I can not understand. But they have carried the lock thoroughly. podgortsy steels for me the greatest disappointment of a trip.
LVOV
Lvov was following our point. I think, about Lvov especially to tell it is not necessary. I will notice only, that we were rather grateful Varvire, helped us with habitation. The matter is that on the May day of a city was outlined and there the weight of tourists has gathered so to find a hotel reservation was problematic. And day of a city, by the way, have transferred for the autumn. In Lvov we have spent all the day, coming to see old familiar and new places.
We extremely liked cafe-confectioner's shop "Veronica". There submit such pies!!!! Here only "Napoleon" was not. heh …))))))) such CAKES!!!! Continuous obedenie!! All I recommend to come there. Not only that they terribly tasty so they also do not spoil. Therefrom we have eaten last cake in three days and it has not worsened at all. Though and not cheap – for three you there naeli also have bought vkusnostej on 210 grn.
Still I very much liked the Armenian church. Very unusually also it is distinct from Catholic and orthodox temples. Very beautiful carved wooden ceiling without a habitual list. And in an arch right after an input zodiac constellations that was absolutely unusually looked in a temple are drawn. And such domes, as before a "zodiac" arch in general in the world only two. And in a temple court yard «Three musketeers» - one of scenes, when all of them four tuzjat guardsmen acted in film for the first time.
By the way, in Lvov on me the attack of an allergy first in a life has attacked. Anyway, I so THINK, what is it there was an allergy. It wanted to me to break a dandelion and to smell. No sooner said than done! It smelt, it is necessary to recognise, remarkably. But at once me has attacked such chih!!!!! I could not go to museum any there at all!!!! Well though before the Arsenal all has passed)).
OLESKO
After Lvov we have gone in Olesko. The lock in OLESKO, especially after podgortsev, became the present balm on a wound. It too is a part of the Gold horseshoe, and its pearl. Very beautiful lock, and both outwardly, and inside. I think, it one of the most beautiful in Ukraine along with Hotinom, Kamentsom and Mukachevo. And though we in it have not got at once – it works only to a floor of the sixth, and we have arrived about seven evenings, impressions, and POSITIVE, were typed much. The lock costs on a hill and is very well visible from afar. And makes impression of such diminutiveness, as though the toy. It has been destroyed by earthquake in ХІХ a century and completely restored by Poles, therefore and looks such saved. Inside it very small, but simpatishnyj. In premises of the lock the big museum and at once as have entered, there was an impression European a museum, is worse nothing, than in Krakow or Warsaw. All is very beautiful and starinno. There too films were shot, but besides nothing a smog recollect. Probably, one fragments only acted in film there. Below under the lock there is a pond and park beautiful, but we there have gone.
In Kiev we have decided to eat in cafe "Гридница" located in a cellar of the lock which strenuously is advertised in responses, but the banquet for any excursion so we have left, not that that nesolono hlebavshi, and in general by the hungry there has been reserved. But we there have in a fantastic way done some flying!!))) there such wind was, that it was necessary to open hands and to jump up and on ten in centimetre you precisely carried! Uzho we there with Mashoj naprygalis!)) Sanja it even on the chamber in the camera has photographed)) we Will look!)))
ZOLOCHEV
Therefrom our way has lain in ZOLOCHEV, third and last point of the Gold horseshoe. Too the lock so-so. The ditch with the walls which have been filled up from above (what for more was less saved??) the earth. At first we have missed by the central entrance and have got on back where we were quickly taught by the closed gate. A bastion covering an input to the bridge (to the concrete!!! Very ancient material, a pancake!!) just was under construction (!!) therefore we have entered on small tropinochke sideways. Inside a court yard - big, dusty and hot – as a parade-ground. On it tynjalis the tourists for certain regretting about here trips. There is there still any small Chinese palace, but to wait for excursion in it 40 minutes, and at us the schedule were necessary!! At us time!! We have left therefrom quickly and promptly, having lifted a dust loop …
ZBARAZH
Also have got in ZBARAZH. To not clearly me why the Zolochevsky lock, instead of Zbarazhsky is switched on in a horseshoe. The Zbarazhsky lock is located on a hill and hidden in park so, that will not approach yet on it – will not see. Two curtains with the rests a tower were saved and their out repairs and reconstruction is carried. Presence in the heart of a ditch of a dredge broke representation about a medieval castle, but inside – probably, the cosiest and beautiful zamkovyj a court yard from all which I saw a little. The beautiful court yard which has been laid out by tiles and with a lawn, symmetrically crossed by paths. On court yard perimetre the various auxiliary buildings well restored are located. There is even a banquet hall (already closed) and a weapon museum (does not go to any comparison with the Lvov arsenal, but very well repaired). In the end of a court yard opposite from an input there is actually a palace. In him the museum (that, however, and not surprisingly) is located. BUT!! First, there is no inspector, except the security guard below, and secondly, there such repair was, what not at each office in Kiev is. I.e. under olden time, but it is very qualitative, beautiful and aesthetic. I have received HUGE pleasure not from museum exhibits, and from its condition. If to all our locks to give such kind, to us would bring down from abroad, as in others European locks. The cellar was last stroke. Big, too well repaired and any such typically medieval – gloomy, with narrow courses, low ceilings and the chamber of tortures with a column to which arrested the prisoner.
In a museum there was a map of all ancient structures Ternopolshchiny – pieces well saved 5 structures and more two tens ruins. The same unique security guard has advised to us to come to see the lock in Koroptse for what we have changed a route and have not called in in Buchach. But, under the description, in ruins of the Buchachsky lock there was a PETROLEUM PRODUCTS warehouse (to be killed it is possible for such use of locks!!!!!!) so, hardly us there have started up.
TERNOPOL
After that we have jerked to Ternopol to spend the night. By phone we have called in one private motelchik «Old park», to the address: street Borduljaka, 11 where all of us arranged. Have arrived, have looked number for three (decent enough number with quite good repair), have lodged and have left to eat. And we have gone in «Old mlyn». To us it very much recommended. I, though and not so travelled much, but some experience I have and should you tell, that, on my modest understanding, "Mlyn" - the best restaurant on a combination originality of an ex-terrier, an interior, quality of dishes and them vkusnosti. Basically, in Ternopol, except "Mlyna" and to look there is especially nothing.
"Mlyn" is a three-storyed building with a cellar, made as it is possible to guess under the name, in the form of an old water-mill. Near to an input wheels with falling water spin also. All is executed in typical Ukrainian style, by something similar on «Puzatu a hut», only in "Mlyne" much more kontsentrirovannej and aktsentirovannej.
We have made the order and have gone on all floors as in a museum and admired all subtleties of an exposition. For example, on each step of a ladder near a wall costs on a small old iron of that are heated on coals. One wall all is entirely covered by old keys of all sizes. Let alone any subjects of a country life. In such here the acceptance.
On the third floor, as a matter of fact cherdachke, there is such to itself a terrace going under a wall, and near it - from the ground floor - the tree grows. The SUCH!!! And nearby the muzhik did not stand!! Not it!!!! Nearby we sat))))))
The menu there is burnt out on the big wooden board, I with it even sfotkalsja. The name of dishes already at all I do not remember everything, only one - “Волохаті mochajki”. For what will not guess, what is it!)) devices, for example, to us have brought in such wattled bast shoes very much simpatishnyh. And dishes well simply indescribably tasty!!!
MORE SHORTLY!!! Will be in Ternopol, find hour or so to descend in "Mlyn" - will not regret!
All such joyful and happy, have gone we home, the blessing, that to us has carried to choose motel in 5 minutes of walking from "Mlyna". Somewhere about eleven have come.
I was in hotels, but THIS much, probably, never I will forget.
While have discussed a route tomorrow's, have looked still something on TV, has come about half of midnight. Have laid down. Have listened to sounds. And a small house, it is necessary to tell, only two-storeyed and to us have given a room in such any place of crossing of all ways from administratorskoj, the central input, a black input, the ladder beginning on the second floor and an exit from any auxiliary premises. Unfortunately, we, on pleasures, that so quickly and, appear, were successfully arranged, have not paid attention to the disposition. Its extreme unprofitableness was not slow itself to find out. Not only that whether the concierge, whether still someone, constantly ran upwards-downwards on a ladder so she also ran in what that bedroom-slippers on heels! Can present, what was from it a sound on a wooden ladder without any softening covering. It was necessary to me to rise and it is polite very much, in pure Ukrainian language, to ask to stop these runnings in view of coming nearer half-night. To me have promised to satisfy the request.
Has laid down, we fall asleep further. At once it was found out, that these runnings very well hid the sounds reaching from next room, where hard workers (workaholics!!!) collected to someone any bed (I hope, this someone did not wait in 12 nights in any number the bed). After several minutes when it became obvious, that hard workers are not going to to finish and that to their worker slengu (read – to a floor-mat) to adapt and fall asleep will not be possible, it was necessary to me to make again voyage for number limits. Already less good-natured, but it is still polite and on-ukrainski I to them has informed, that if they not in a course, already almost 12 nights, and be desirable to have a sleep. How they look at it? Two hard workers continued to puff over a bed, and the third, I so have understood, the owner of motel, with Socrat who has been torn off from reflexion over the main philosophical question by any shepherd kind, has asked (I will lower its basic words serving binding between NORMAL words) that I went to myself to sleep and did not stir it.
I, basically, though did not expect from it refined turns, but was taken aback and from the form (it would seem, the owner of motel should hardly be more polite with the clients) and from the maintenance (nevertheless seems to me logical the request not to rustle at midnight) a little and have asked, whether I can help them to accelerate process. I know, that with some types of beings, in popular speech called "mudaki", it is necessary to communicate on their adverb, differently they simply will not understand. Here he too has not understood my sarcasm in the request for the help and has quite seriously assured me, that the help is not necessary to them also minutes through 10 they will finish. Poorly in it believing, has returned to a room in expectation of the further succession of events.
We lay, we hear, how they drag a bed on a ladder with corresponding sound support. In hope what to drag a bed two flights not so long, we wait. And here, judging by the increased sound fluctuations of air, the bed has got stuck. Having decided to apply extreme measures, they used means for influence strengthening on the subjects, known under the name "hammer". And here, in 12 nights (plus-minus of 5 minutes) we hear rolling, joyful sounds of blows of a hammer by any wooden parts of a bed with not less beautiful echo. Probably, in other place and during other time we on advantage would estimate beauty of sounds of blows, an echo and aspiration of hard workers at any cost to finish the job. But here already Sanja does not maintain and leaves to bring the mite in delicate negotiations. The main arguments of the owner in dispute has appeared that (rather in an original way), that, first, personally HE can fall asleep under any sounds so why and us not to try, and secondly, still there are no 12 nights!! As the Ellochka-cannibal – IRON used to say!!!
Here to you council: at dispute it is necessary not to answer questions, and to speak illogical things. If the person arguing with you, holds logicians while he will think, what relation the things stated by you to dispute have, you will have time to think up still something and I give a guarantee – if so continue, at it safety locks will burn down the first.
To us has carried, us was two and while one conducted verbal fire with the owner, another saved forces, collected reserves and struck blow on the other hand. At last the owner has not sustained battle and, being sustained by huge losses of nervous cages, is especially florid vymaterilsja, and has suggested us to return money and to be cleaned from here supposedly we to it we stir. I will remind, already there was a midnight. Be I one or, at least without Masha, we and have made. But I as have imagined, that else the minimum of minutes 40 it will be going to (to us that from Sledge always it was necessary a maximum of minutes 10) and in other hotel we will be not earlier than o'clock in the morning (if there there will be places), and there still Masha will be displayed about half an hour!!! More shortly, we have decided to wage war to the victorious end have stated to the owner everything, that we think of its ability to receive visitors, to give them qualitative rest in general and its mental faculties in particular and have declared, that time we have paid, let he sleeps under what wants, where wants and as wants, but a bed that have now cleaned. There and then we to it it is oath have promised the NECESSARY advertising in the Internet.
We HAVE won!!!!!!))))) probably he has not got used, that with it argue and almost with tears has told to hard workers to carry a bed in a court yard and to come tomorrow!
We have returned to number with the exhausted nerves, but full pleasures in comprehension of Victoria!!!)
And now the most interesting. You think, all has ended?? SHCHAZZZ!!!!
A half-hour all was silent, but there has then come the second series. To the house has come any juvenile mudachok (the offspring of the owner, probably) and, becoming near a door in administratorskuju (in 3 metres from our door), began to have a good time from the night porter. I terribly malicious have jumped out, as was in cowards, in a corridor and already stirring Russian with the Ukrainian words (there was no me an Ukrainian dictionary in that condition) HAVE asked to be cleaned where it is necessary for it. I do not know, whether my words, a muzzle of my person or my cowards on it have worked, but it, some times having repeated, that supposedly now, now, has fallen down. And only having seen a closed door behind it, I have returned to number.
Only has started to fall asleep, as I hear – the car has approached and it left a Trinity of guffawing beings and a steel under windows at us. One of them began someone to call at once and an opposite squeaky voice to bear any bosh. In minutes five, the charter to wait for normal behaviour, I already on the automatic machine was put out from a window (it were maloletki - whether oburennye, whether simply mad), have called its bad words and, having recollected one book where the hero was in a similar situation, have very easy asked to choose: either they leave, or I now will leave. Quiet tone sometimes operates better shout)) Fortunately they have chosen the first and have left. Frankly speaking, I any more did not believe that to a smog to fall asleep and simply laid in a semisleepiness. In the same semisleepiness I heard, how kakaj drunk has come to the porter and began to search any Anzhelinu. The porter it has sent.
Somebody has then come with the loud bass, searching for a place to spend the night. The porter it too has sent, but it some times came back. Thus the porter asked it to speak more silently for people, we that is, sleep (and here it were vraki), but asked the same loud voice …
More shortly, itself I do not know, how has fallen asleep and as has surprisingly, rather not bad slept …
So, people, will be in Ternopol - bypass the tenth road motel «Old park», to the address: streets Borduljaka, 11 there to clients concern, to put it mildly, badly.
And last stroke about Ternopol. On notes, in a city there is a lock. We have arrived to the centre, any lock we do not see and have decided to ask the local woman: «Where supposedly the lock?» I will be as Zadornov – and now attention: ponder upon its answer-question: «And what for to you there?» We were taken aback a little, really, what for to people in the lock??? Perhaps fire wood to cut and heating steam to blow??? To "look", we answer. «And, then go for that house, shows, and there will see».
We have gone in the specified direction. The lock any we do not see, there are what that buildings quite modern, about one on a flagstaff the flag is twisted. Have solved we then to pass to a pond Ternopol (enough big, by the way) and on a way have approached to that building with a flag. I see, the tablet as on history and architecture instructions hangs on him and on it is modestly written "Lock". And in appearance – ordinary Soviet administrative, though and not new, a building. Something such there and now is.
We have understood, that in Ternopol it nothing us more and we have gone in Terebovlju.
TEREBOVLJA
Anything especially not remarkable regional small town, but the lock there the remarkable. There is it on a hill, in a shade of trees. Has well enough saved walls and one feature - three towers: oval, pentagonal and triangular. And if to clear away the earth, nasypannuju in the lock, it would turn out rather simpatishnyj zamochek. That has pleased – so this absence there tourists. Full freedom has been given us.
At an ascension on a hill I was overtaken by a call of the chief. To take or not to take, here in what the question consisted. On the one hand, there there could be simply working question, and with another, whether it is not enough, suddenly will order from Terebovli to take off charter-party for Kiev. Sovesst has overcome and there there was rather ordinary question.
At departure with zamkovoj mountains in a city we have seen a cathedral. I have asked to stop and have gone inside simply to look (almost all met cathedrals and churches I tried to visit). But this has met me a surprise. I stand to myself, I touch nobody, I see, in church there has passed the priest, apparently, the pastor, judging by a collar. He has seen me and has greeted: «Glory to Jesus». I understood, that is necessary answer and how to answer, but all my nature of the atheist rose against such answer. Not because I disdain, and it is simple as the atheist I have no right SO to answer. He sees, that I am silent and have approached to me, edak interrogatively looking. There was it on half-heads me more low. I speak: «I the atheist». He has been very surprised and not revolted almost: «Then that you here do? What for have come? You have no right to come into a temple, if you the atheist».
How much I happen in religious institutions, for the first time I meet such relation to non-believers. At us with it discussion on religious themes) also has begun) I Like to argue with believers, but not with fanatics. We stand, we communicate, he already has become kinder, probably, assuming, that can turn me into belief (the naive!!). Minutes 10 we argued. It was pleasant to talk to this priest, strangely enough. Here Sanja calls, I time have dumped, the second, the third. Then any more has not sustained and has told, that it is time supposedly I am late. So where severity of the priest has got to! He has smiled, has said goodbye politely and even has shaken hands with me at parting.
And then we wished to go further, but have soon understood, that we go not there. Were developed, have gone back to the lock. Again we pass THAT church, children have asked, whether I wish to go still to argue with the father sacred))
And there there was such square round which there was a road and which we already went round when for the first time went to the lock. Here we also have gone round square again. I see, so we again will arrive to the lock. I speak to Masha: «Have gone once again round square, probably, to us to other branch». Have gone round a public garden, we go to other branch. We go, we feel, that something it is expensive painfully bad. We ask local where supposedly us to go. Those have waved hands: « So it is necessary to you back, and there there will be an index ». We are developed, we approach again on square and taki we see the index judging by which we taki should go again to the lock. Having linked a teeth, we go under the index. Have again gone round, become already such familiar and native, a public garden. But it is not similar, a pancake, on the road necessary to us!! Well, nearby there was a car with the driver, I left have asked road. It has appeared, that taki it is necessary to us there where we have gone to the very first time!! With hope that we see square last time, in-nadtsatyj time we go round it and already (huh!!!) more it we do not see.
ZARVANITSA
Further our way has lain in ZARVANITSU. I about it have heard for the first time. It novostroj which name one more pochaevym. Very majestic buildings. The big cathedral, a high belltower, large entrance gate, a field (according to our directory - on 50 000 praying) – and EMPTINESS!!!!!!!! Anybody!!!!! Only when we already left, there has arrived still any car. The cathedral too has surprised me – all cathedrals, as a rule, almost without windows, gloomy, casting thoughts on caducity of all real and close death. And this bright solar, with the big windows above. And there too anybody!!! As though povymerli all!!
Not so vnushajushche as pochaev, towering over all vicinities and suppressing itself, but on me Zarvanitsa has made bolshee impression, than pochaev. Perhaps because in pochaeve there were crowds of tourists, and here the emptiness allowing more to like by sanctity of a place …
We have typed there sacred water and have gone further …
KOROPETS
Still in Zbarazhe the security guard has advised to us instead of Buchacha to go in Koropets. There, as he said and to the image on a map, there is well saved lock. We have modified the plans and have gone. It is sensitive have missed by congress from the basic line, but these are trifles in comparison with that road which has begun after that congress. It is so much holes, holes and potholes on square metre I yet did not see. Such impression, that all road services began repair of this road, but after jobs on drilling of an unusable roadbed money somehow came to an end at once also all workers ran up on woods and houses. To go there there was something about 30 km, but at speed in 10 – a maximum of 20 km at an o'clock I already was afraid, that we will not have time to reach today to a civilisation and it is necessary to stay the night in the car. To our happiness, sites to which the workers, trying to repair road sometimes came across, have not reached yet, and there we developed to 50 km/h. Each time when the arrow of a speedometer passed 50, Sanja marked it sounds, in its opinion, representing fanfares, and at me associating with a cry hungry tiranozavra, missed extraction.
And then we have left on the site which has run from a hill, the wonderful kind to Dnestr whence opened and Sanja has died, but in him the photographer has woken up. Kinds were really beautiful – shine of water in beams of the coming sun and a bath of a small churchlet below, gleaming gold.
Anyhow, we have reached to Koroptsa and on inquiries have found the aforementioned lock. Nearby there was any boarding school for orphans and consequently the lock which has appeared beautiful enough and really not bad saved building of any manor, was used as musical school. We have been terribly disappointed and angered are it was necessary to go here so much on such bad road to behold this product of architecture of 19 centuries …
Having made pair of photos and having bypassed a building on a circle for decency, we have gone to Chernovtsy on spending the night.
CHERNOVTSY
Besides, about Chernovtsy will especially extend I will not be. Beautiful, but dusty enough city. I will note Only Chernovitsky university which is considered with what I absolutely agree, the most beautiful educational building of Ukraine precisely and applying for the same rank within the limits of Europe. Earlier it was the residence of a bishop, therefore in university territory there is an operating church. Except university the Drunk church, which columns supporting lateral domes differs originality, are in an original way braided sideways.
DIVES (CHERVONOGRAD)
Very original and, I think, almost the unique lock in Ukraine with such arrangement. It is located, as well as it is necessary to the lock, on a height, BUT! This height to be in a valley between hills. Therefore, when we have approached on this valley, to us the fascinating kind – the lock as though at the bottom of a cup, has settled down on small bugorke has opened. From above we saw two towers which have not bad saved and more what that structure behind them. Sanja has there and then seized for the camera and did not let out it throughout all descent. And descent, it is necessary to tell, was hardly probable not most stryomnym for all travel. Long enough – kilometre two, it was streaming and soil with stones sticking out everywhere as though someone has put there special posts against tourists of everyones. Masha there went a maximum of 5 km at an o'clock, attentively looking through all variants of detours of obstacles. Somewhere on the way middle for us there was a jeep. To it, essesno, all these obstacles were pofig but as it to pass on narrow road. It was necessary to it, to the poor creature to creep for us all descent and only below on open space it, it is joyful vzryknuv, has overtaken us and has rushed off on any potholes, as though compensating to itself a downtime and showing to us the daring.
From below towers have appeared far not such prigljadnymi, as from above. Brought down, pokotsannye, with dropping out bricks – a full set of all delights inherent in the majority of our locks. All it was a consequence of one more idiotic use of the lock - any more one decade to be in him children's camp. Pioneers with pleasure have carried the lock ….samoe beautiful in him – an arrangement. For the sake of it it is necessary to arrive. Basically, even to go down it is not necessary, if below there was no one more sight – the highest flat falls of Ukraine on the river Dzhurin – 16 metres. I will not tell about him, photos see.
On a way upward the jeep, just in case, has left before us. But two more graceful machines with the same madwomen, as we have towards got. And one of them – a taxi (whence, interestingly, it rented??) with three girls, whose attractive faces have reminded me the scared nanny-goats for some reason – type, and where it we???))))
KOLOMYJA
Further we has lain in KOLOMYJU. It is described as one of the most beautiful districts of Ukraine, but as on me, the same Mukachevo is much more beautiful. There we have called in only in a museum pysanok. Too, by the way, rather mediocre. To me have most of all liked pysanki from goose and ostrich's eggs (though them there was on 2-3 jokes), and also stone pysanki from semiprecious stones. The most original – architecture of a museum – in the form of the big egg.
JAREMCHA
Therefrom we have gone on spending the night in JAREMCHU. At an entrance to it we have called in one motelchik private and porassprashivali about the prices with conditions. However, I thought there one back there will be near roads, and it has appeared, that there the whole complex – are near expensive directly the house of the mistress with handed over rooms, and above on a slope a two-storeyed cottage one, kitchen from a dining room, an one-storeyed cottage another, a two-storeyed bath with pool (in the evening it is highlighted), and more one three-storyed cottage in style of the lock.
And here children have recollected, that in them type wedding travel and have decided to reserve a cottage. As the true bookkeeper I has opposed irrational use of means, but them was two and I was poverzhen, is braided and thrown on the second floor of a cottage where has come to the senses and vozradovalsja because in SUCH numbers I yet zhival))) In a cottage all under euro, but wooden. A bathroom separate, a sauna. On the ground floor a dining room, on the second small sleeping and the big hall with an exit on a balcony. In a hall is small, but very much simpatishnyj difference of floors with a short flight of stairs – rather stylishly. All is sheathed by a tree, with oblique roofs. More shortly, washing the accounting soul has taken pity and has agreed to remain here.
Sanja has there and then lighted up idea to reduce us in a bath where neither I, nor Masha earlier did not happen. We have reserved banku, have reserved a supper and have gone to arrange photosession in a cottage. Here has just appeared in time banka. Banka is … well, know …)))) Too a two-floor building, in the same style, as a cottage. On the second floor (we came from above) big razdevalochnaja, it a dining room any (the big table and chairs with the backs, made under hemp from integral oaks) with a fireplace, is also an exercise room (not clearly, for whom) and a bar with the tape recorder (in a player there was only a disk with Rotaru, but such worn out, that only one song was read). On the ground floor to such itself a hall, a shower (two showers!), a jacuzzi and actually banka.
Also we have gone to a bath!!! It is good, that earlier I could descend in a sauna so basically, anything new was not, except brooms against which I have categorically spoken against. But atmosphere there was SUCH … karpatskaja!!!! I have started at once to be typed dzhakuzju and have got into a bath. Nevertheless after a while Sanja me has persuaded on brooms and, I to you will tell, it something … especially on feet!!))))))))))
After brooms I have poured to myself kvasku, have switched on more loudly Rotaru and have dived in dzhakuzju. Vaashchshchshche!!)))))) And though with neprivychki we there have stayed not for long, but oshushshenija are unforgettable!)) even rather unfriendly mistress could not spoil to us mood.
Otuzhynali we also have fallen asleep are all in.
BUKOVEL
Next day we have gone on BUKOVEL. Such stylish kurortik though also roads to it terrible it is simple. Only the last some kilometres quite good, and before – mum expensive. And here already Carpathians! With corresponding kinds! Sanja every 5 minutes stopped to embody a kako-thread especially inspired it vodopadik or natural boundary. Have reached to the lift (the last from half-kilometre it was necessary to go on foot), took tickets and have gone top.
For the first time I went on the lift and too is terrible vpechatljajushche!! 4-5 floors sit at height approximately and stir feet. And round beauty tops in snow open also. The lift goes silently-silently, only sometimes squeaks at pass through support. Lepota!! Have arrived on top, and there snow still lays in heaps!! Were left by snowballs, popozirovali and have gone downwards. And on a way back have switched on in dinamikah any group Ukrainian, unknown, but quite good enough.
We have decided to visit on Goverle, but at entrance to reserve to us at once have told, that on Goverlu it is necessary to go not earlier than June and have recommended to go on the next top where the meteorological station is located. It was necessary to agree. Have gone. The above, the roads all are worse and worse. Eventually almost the first coat has gone. Unique pleasure – went along any rivulet and it so cheerfully us accompanied, being raged and turning whirlpools.
And over Goverloj rather gloomy cloud hung, but we persistently crept upwards. Wood around all became gloomier, snowdrifts on each side all above, a rain all mokree, the cold all is colder, and our desire to visit close Goverly ever less. And, lines knows where, we have decided, that with such weather to us even on a meteorological station shines nothing and have made management decision to try to be developed. And road narrow, glad obryvchik in the river and it is raining. It was necessary to us to get out from Sledge from warm avto during a rain rekognostsirovat a turn and to hope, that it is not required to catch avto at falling in the river. All has passed successfully and we have returned since the winter at spring.
Further we have gone through Carpathians already directly in Zakarpate. Kinds were – above any praises, know, who happened. Of what we with Mashoj were afraid also has begun - almost each turn Sanja demanded to stop and was accepted pechatlet surrounding kinds on the camera.
We passed even through the geographical centre of Europe calculated still by cartographers of Austro-Hungarian empire. The another matter, that such centres is still to steam of pieces in full conformity with the theory of a relativity and persons of calculators of these centres. That, however, at all has not prevented us and there to be embodied, but, for technical reasons, these foty with fottoapparata shchezli!! And before the centre there was a boundary post. And it on ours still territories!! I understand, frontier territory, shpiyony, dzhemsy bonds, the state interests and so on but at what here we are peace tourists?? But logical arguments all these, apparently, have not been taken into consideration severe sibirs. I.e. karpatskim the muzhik in a groundsheet also it was necessary to me to get out under a rain and to search in a bag for the certificate malicious at present persons. Long still to that muzhik it was hiccupped!! And then along road there were boundary posts – though take and pass the Romanian border, as O.Bender.
So we also have reached to Zakarpatja along Black Yews.
And when we have driven already in a valley, somewhere under Tjachevym to us successively THREE villages in which on each side roads, at the left and on the right, the SOLID WALL stood SUCH palaces, that where there to ours podkievskim have met!!! We went, having opened mouths – who here lives!!?? Really, such congestion "hatynok" I yet did not see, even near Kiev SUCH houses one on ten if it is not less, and here simply hundreds!!!! Sometimes even on architectural izyskam they exceeded those locks and palaces for the sake of which we and whether made this voyage … That in Zakarpate to move??)) by the way, one of villages is proud was called «White Church»! And here the cars standing near to palaces, were a match not for houses – old enough and unpretentious – probably, on decent avto after such mansion of money any more has not sufficed. As a variant it has been stated, what is it cars of servants and gardeners))
We have stayed the night in Huste (very decent hotel) and have gone to a valley of Narcissuses – one of basic our points in the morning. One of kinds of wild-growing narcissuses there grows. And here that is insulting - almost in all court yard, that we passed, these narcissuses already dismissed, swine such, the darkness was. And here in the valley (not one hectare the area) dismissed was to steam of pieces on a hundred part!! And that all green and only preparing for flowering. To us it was terribly insulting … heh … But we that on road there have called in, and some excursions have specially arrived not from the close is far.
SINEVIR
After a valley we have taken away in Huste two girls (one kievljanka Ljuda, other of Mukacheva – Tanja) and have gone to mountains – on lake SINEVIR. This lake is known enough also beautiful, especially in the summer when there it is warm, dry and is green. Masha dreamt to eat all road nearby Sinevira shashlychka from forelki (someone to it somewhere has told, that it there rather skusen and she even refused to eat a trout in other places on a way TO lake) and here it – coming nearer dream. We went went on mountains and have arrived through pair hours in mezhgore – district about which the lake is located. On a map distance there kilometres 15 from district, but we went them almost hour – such potholes.
But kinds there – simply beauty indescribable!! Photos cannot pass all beauty – and panoramnosti that is not present, and filters were not, but these distances force to regret, that Ikaru it was not possible to embody the dream and the person cannot so to take and depart here, where and when will want.
At an entrance to lake somehow began to become cold. It was necessary to switch on an oven. And when have arrived on parking - metres in 30 from lake, - we (especially Tanja and Ljuda, arrived on lake almost in T-shorts and shorts) vozradovalis, that garderobchik that our all with itself!!)) the Cold (degrees 10, it it is no more), snow, slush, clouds. It is good, that the rain was not still. It was necessary to me to destroy the chumadan in the form of a sports bag and to endow sufferers from a cold with warm things. But on all has not sufficed and Tanja it was in addition wrapped up in a plaid and the lady in a plaid », on saninomu to expression has turned out«.
Apparently, in the summer there it is really beautiful. All lake is surrounded by the hills covered with woods. Even now there were rather majestic vicinities - the hills which tops covered whether a fog, whether clouds, dense woods, but a cold and floating in the centre of lake whether snow, whether ice, somehow forced to forget, that in the street that beginning of May!! On lake perimetre there is a path on which, in a kind of presence of absence on it dry places us, in our moccasins, somehow to go not strongly it would be desirable. Therefore we were limited to minutes 15 photographings and have jerked in the car, bo in the same place warmly!!!!
Masha even has forgotten about the forelku as around it was not observed any operating places public harchevanija. But on departure from village (minutes of 10 drivings from lake) we have seen kolybu and have come into it in hope on long-awaited forelku. At once it has appeared, what is it present kolyba – with absence of windows, illumination, tight walls. But with presence of a fire in the middle of "hall" and a hole at the top of a cone-shaped roof where the smoke from an aforementioned fire left. To us at once was ceased to want to remain here and even promises of the mistress to light to us candles and to create, thus, «romantic conditions» (nafig it was necessary to us in such cold, her has not interested), have not seduced us and we have gone further on falls SHIPOT.
SHIPOT
Road on SHipot it has appeared in the end even worse, than on Sinevir – only soil and terribly broken by any tractors (that they there did??) and eventually, few times nearly not having planted the car on the bottom, we have stopped somewhere in semikilometer and have gone on foot. Again taki on a bog. Not removing a plaid.
Even in such, to put it mildly, not a flying weather, there it was beautiful. For some reason on the earth there was a weight of the fallen down leaves and any new young growth. Judging by photos, we there were in general in the autumn!!) the beautiful stream from falls was twisted between pines and I represent to myself, as there it is beautiful in the summer at the sun. The falls have not justified our hopes. It was even less (14 Dzhurina and from below seemed simply small. According to Tani, the falls in Voevodino are much more beautiful.
Because of all it, time (was about eight evenings), and also time of a way to Mukachevo (hour two) we and there not strongly were late, only for photographing.
If to consider our expectations, complexity of a way, time spent for visiting Sinevira and SHipota, and that we have seen both on lake, and on falls, it is possible to understand our disappointment. For Tani, living, in general, in Mukachevo, but a little travelling, after this trip name "mezhigore" (both objects are in Interigorsky area) became a synonym «lines knows where». By the way, we attempted that only in the morning and were, we will tell so, ogolodavshie. Well, we think, we will arrive in Volovets – there we will eat. Have arrived. The fig is not present. Good, we think, we will arrive in Svaljavu which was at us on a way, uzho THERE!! Have arrived there already somewhere in the beginning of ten evenings. Have started to search for cafe or restaurant – figs to you and here!! And we that thought, that Svaljava – the big resort city. It and so, but to eat there in the evening - difficult can to find. More shortly, we have conferred and have decided, that to the house to us hour of driving, we will suffer as-thread. And there for us waited (as shchas I remember) sosisochki, borshchik, murmushel … mmm …. . (I write it to lunch time, by the way))))
Rather to me the episode when we asked road on Mukachevo was remembered. Have approached on sidewalk, there there were two women local. Sanja has lowered glass, has asked road. We from the car did not hear the answer, but all fine saw. Women as though have been warned, that here will go today here one on orange SHevrole and will ask road on Mukachevo, and so them it is necessary to confuse and not to admit at all penetrations into confidential hero town Mukachevo. And women trained all the day long in complication. When we have appeared, they have learnt us at once, probably, and have decided to apply 14th way of complication – BOTH SYNCHRONOUSLY (hours of training have affected) have shown in two OPPOSITE SIDES!!! The only thing, that they have not provided – so it is our reaction. Such amicable neighing, I think, Svaljava yet did not know!!))
We have understood, that local not in a course and have decided to be guided on a map and indexes. It is a pity, the compass was not, and that we would in a moment be))
The road from Svaljavy to Mukachevo was excellent and we were gave to rest, destroying in passing was at me in a stick grist to tea. On all car there was a crunch.
MUKACHEVO
We have spent the night at Tani and have gone in the morning to the MUKACHEVSKY lock. The lock to be on a high hill in the middle of plain and is very well appreciable from apart. One of the most beautiful and saved locks of Ukraine. Very compact and at the same time the big suffices. Fine saved both external walls, and internal constructions. There is a bottom lock and top which incorporate long enough corridor. In a ceiling of a corridor a hole, through kakovuju on absolutely become impudent the aggressor the indignant inhabitants of the lock poured that has got – pitch there, boiling, butter too not cold etc., etc. In the lock operates some different museums, but as on me – not in museums the main value of the lock. However, crowds there was – darkness, but it already details. Itself Mukachevo - very attractive small town. My opinion is the most beautiful district of Ukraine. Small streets cosy and well-groomed, all in trees. A beautiful and pure old city. Quay nice, especially on silent summer evenings.
DETSA AT NOTARJA
After we have gone towards Uzhgorod to one more tavern planned to visiting still in Kiev – a korchma-museum «DETSA At NOTARJA». On-zakarpatski - «Hundred gramme at the notary». Too it is made with rural motives. Korchma big enough and places for harchevanija are located mainly in the street, consisting of different hatynok, the back streets which have been fenced off by wattled fences. But there are also the big tasks used or in the winter, or under banquets. Service there, we will tell so, not so (such impression, that they on waiters save) and the meal too not strongly impresses (in difference from «Old mlyna» in Ternopol). Feature korchmy, outweighing all its lacks are jumoristichny style in which all is made. Even I have read the menu twice – at first simply for interest, and then already choosing meal. All names or in itself jumoristichnye or are seasoned by such comment. To me from dishes it was remembered only "kijzliki". The waitress long tried to explain to us on fingers, what is it, but we have understood only, what is it something from a potato. I sit such, all in an anticipation something such and here to me bring … ordinary deruny. At me even appetite has worsened from affliction. But it is trifles. And in the end of the menu such phrase: «you can steal this menu or simply buy it from us, but all the same we are glad to your visiting. Menu cost will be subtracted from tip to the waiter».
There is there a cemetery very "original" - who there only is not buried. And «Ours meta 1998» and «Ours meta 2000» etc. both the dishonest waiter, and fair elections in Mukachevo in 2004. Everywhere different cool tablets and inscriptions. For example: «On this bench V.Janukovich if it did not sit at this time in other place» could sit. And in a toilet costs three pissuara, over each of which tablets in an Ukrainian language and aglitskom hang: «only for beer», «only for wine», «only for vodka». In such here the acceptance. We then went everywhere as in a museum, all considered. If will be in Zakarpate – glance.
UZHGOROD
And last point of our tour - the UZHGOROD lock. Only the lock – because time was just barely enough and we could give it only to the lock. Though I have come to conclusion, that is necessary a minimum 3-4 days to travel only itself Zakarpate. We have passed ruins both in Huste, and in Vinogradovo, and factory of wines in Beregovo, and the lock in CHinadeevo and more any lock beyond Uzhgorod. But this business of the future.
In Zakarpate we reminded me the Japanese tourists – have come, have photographed and have left … Too the program sated we have thought up …
On road to the lock I was surprised with feature of local streets. All know, that in Zakarpate a lot of Oriental cherry grows. And when we there were, it already faded and fell down. And so, in Uzhgorod there is a big avenue of an Oriental cherry and all this Oriental cherry began to fall down. Also imagine, we go on city streets which are covered by pink petals of an Oriental cherry as on a pink carpet!! And sidewalks too in the same condition!! Beautifully extraordinary)
The lock too saved enough though we saw only a front part of walls. To back we have not reached. But a palace in the lock too in an excellent condition and beautiful museums in him. The part of walls is not restored, but also these rests are rather picturesque. A beautiful and well-groomed courtyard. And, in my opinion, it almost the unique lock (fortress) in Ukraine in which is enough the big garden. And that all locks have a courtyard – as a parade-ground. In the summer there it is terribly hot and uncomfortable. And in Uzhgorod I was also in the summer too and there very pleasant cool costs.
Besides, quickly enough we have seen the lock and the way back in which anything interesting was not … has begun.
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